Thanks man for all your attention to detail. I just ordered a D4 and thought it would be a fun build. Kinda scary seeing the faults it has.. Thanks for fixing it!!
Thanx man. I had the same problem.....my front wheel would lock up and "Instamaticaly" act like a brake on that wheel. watched your video, made some adjustments and now I can "Instamaticaly" drift at lock. Thanx again
i have made a c-hub less front suspension on my d3.i am planning to do zero toe zero camber rear and full tire patch on the front.also i will make my shocks like you did.i am at 1.63cs.i will let you know.thanks for the vids,so helpful
It works fine from the box. You just need to adjust the end points on the steering servo (which you should so as soon as you fit your own electronics to a chassis). Most controllers digital or old fashioned will have a knob or settings to adjust it. I'm running a d4 rwd bone stock, and by trimming the steering servo to stop the binding of the wheel to the lower arm cost me £0 and five minutes.
glad I found this video, this is my first RWD drifter, and I think I stared at the knuckles after they were a built for about 2 hours.. knowing something was wrong but followed directions exactly hah... Im having trouble locating the parts you listed to fix it though.
hi Melvin because this video is super old .. they have stopped making that part ( DIB ) but you can always hows .. YD-2 Series Front Steering Block 2 pcs Black USD 6.50 cheap and easy thanks Afro
Cant you change the kpi on those knuckles by moving the top ball joint further outward on on top 3 holes? rather late but ive got those kuckles and changed kpi just but moving that top ball joint
Take out your front rods where the front wheels connect Flip the bolts around so they dont loosen. Not to tight.. Tune your dr from remote.. Put a spacer if you dont want lock. Even though it meant to.. But im alot like you. We like the same assembly and layout
Thanks for these videos. The D4 is my first RWD drifter and I experienced these same issues. I have switched to HPI T drifts front and rear and moved the battery to the back. If you could do a suspension video for this kit I'd appreciate it. I'm curious to know how to tune the shocks for the Battery in the rear. What length tie rod did you end up going with up top?
+Derigortron not sure the length. We just used ones we had in the spare parts pile and it fit. With 0 KPI you'll need the upper and lower arms to be around the same length then then adjust the camber to get a flat leading wheel at full lock.
Derigortron The Yokomo Axle stub will work with the DRB-415. Just need the bearings as well. We are using the following parts in this video. - www.rcmart.com/axle-shaft-front-p-56997.html - DRB-415 or DRB-415s - BB-105-2 (Need 2 which = 4 Bearings)
+Louis Richey not sure about the D4 steering on the Sprint 2. If you are looking to do a RWD Sprint 2, maybe using the R31 house slide rack would be a better option.
+PDIAZJDM93 we just used a longer turnbuckle than stock because of the 0 KPI. not sure the length. We just used ones we had in the spare parts pile and it fit. With 0 KPI you'll need the upper and lower arms to be around the same length then then adjust the camber to get a flat leading wheel at full lock.
+Gaelen Norman Will these fit? www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B019XXVYV8/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?qid=1455962426&sr=8-1-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=drb-415s+front+knuckles
is the original axle of sakura D4 will fit on the DRB knuckle? can you give me the exact model/part no. of your alluminum knuckle. IB-415G, 415S1 is this same?
+Gripsstudios no difference, the DRB-415 plastic is what we use at the RC Club. It's cheaper so when it gets damaged and needs to be replaced it doesn't hurt the bank.
@@victorbarajas4705 so the best thing to do is put it on a very flat services and turn the sevo all the way left and look if r the wheel is flat .. the do the right wheel .. if both are flat the you have what you need
Father & son 120y it is a yokomo drb or dib ... the best why to fix your car is to go online and type in Usukani .. they have a web store that sell every thing U need to make your car work!
Blong Vang hi... it is probably the easiest thing to do is go on a company like RC Mart or even RC art or even better than them I would go to tetsujin and they have everything you would ever need
they include the 0 degree rear toe block aswell as a 1 degree im not having any understeer or push issues running stock uprights my wheels also dont rub on lower arm on full lock either ...................
+Michael Willett from your videos it looks like you have changed quite a bit of parts on your D4 already. We built this car step by step with the instructions with all parts in the box first. We also copied their setup sheet. This was our baseline. If you built the car the same way, I would think that you would have had the same results.
+Michael Willett If you received 1 degree and 0 degree rear toe blocks then it's either missing from our box or you got something special. Our package in Bag 1 only had rear 3 Degree Toe In. i.imgur.com/VYovG51.jpg
Yeah they included 0 1 and 3 degree blocks in mine and 2 other of my froends also received them in their kits too Otherwhise 3 racing had them avqilable in alloy as they re used them from other chassis too
Great video, explaines a lot. Did you have any problems with locking steering? I did so many mods that I have 90deg lock with standard or mst knuckles, but with both my steering locks at gull turn to the right. At full lock and releasing turn the arm goes too far out and pulls the wheel for further rather than back. Any fix for that or any idea? Thanks
So what’s the difference between KPI and caster… Or better yet how does KPI affect caster or vice versa anyway, I’m sure you realize this was at least eight years ago Back then my English was really pathetic. Anyway, have a good one. Thank you.
@@Afrorc Hi afro, sorry my mistake, I just read the video description, it was your intention to remove KPI for some reason I though this is a video about adding KPI to fix the problem but what you're doing is removing it. Love your work.
Yeah idk why he's harping on about needing almost 90 degrees of angle. From what I have read and been told 70-75 is the max amount of angle you will ever need pretty much. Also you could just trim the steering to solve the issue.
I think your knuckles are upside down dude. I don't have this issue on my Sakura d4. It does have 10deg of casted but all that's really doing is pivoting the knuckle for faster steering. I bet if u were to flip your knuckles u wouldn't have that issue. I maxed out my negative camber to where only about a 1/8 of an inch has contact when the tire is facing forward and at full lock both leading and trailing arm are at the same grip patch. I also kicked some toe out as well.
Ignore that, just checked and my knuckles are different then what u had. Sakura must have updated them by now. I have 2 mounting positions for the upper arm. Offset, like the one u had issues with, or I can place the ball mount parallel to the lower ball mount(what I did) and to gain a bit more lock I went ahead and trimmed the plastic tab that is offset for the upper ball mount. Again ignore my first comment your knuckles are on right. 😁
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks man for all your attention to detail. I just ordered a D4 and thought it would be a fun build. Kinda scary seeing the faults it has.. Thanks for fixing it!!
Thanx man. I had the same problem.....my front wheel would lock up and "Instamaticaly" act like a brake on that wheel. watched your video, made some adjustments and now I can "Instamaticaly" drift at lock. Thanx again
i just got my 2nd Sakura D4, one RWD and the other AWD. your videos helps a lot, thanks!
+vlozity you're welcome. gald to be of help. stay tuned for more videos.
i have made a c-hub less front suspension on my d3.i am planning to do zero toe zero camber rear and full tire patch on the front.also i will make my shocks like you did.i am at 1.63cs.i will let you know.thanks for the vids,so helpful
It works fine from the box. You just need to adjust the end points on the steering servo (which you should so as soon as you fit your own electronics to a chassis). Most controllers digital or old fashioned will have a knob or settings to adjust it. I'm running a d4 rwd bone stock, and by trimming the steering servo to stop the binding of the wheel to the lower arm cost me £0 and five minutes.
watching this video makes me want to get back to RC cars, although I was never big on drifting
perfect info given bru .. im learning so much and need to spend so much to lol cheers Afro man 10/10
glad I found this video, this is my first RWD drifter, and I think I stared at the knuckles after they were a built for about 2 hours.. knowing something was wrong but followed directions exactly hah... Im having trouble locating the parts you listed to fix it though.
Any chance I can get a part number on those knuckles? Can't find them anywhere.
Hi brother, finally found the right guy! Great videos! Do you guys have this MST upper arms and the steering knuckles in store?
hi Melvin
because this video is super old .. they have stopped making that part ( DIB )
but you can always hows .. YD-2 Series Front Steering Block 2 pcs Black
USD 6.50 cheap and easy
thanks
Afro
Cant you change the kpi on those knuckles by moving the top ball joint further outward on on top 3 holes? rather late but ive got those kuckles and changed kpi just but moving that top ball joint
where i can buy that knuckle you use ? thank you
Take out your front rods where the front wheels connect
Flip the bolts around so they dont loosen. Not to tight..
Tune your dr from remote..
Put a spacer if you dont want lock. Even though it meant to..
But im alot like you. We like the same assembly and layout
I can't seem to find the parts to get the rear toe to 0°, can you possibly post a link to the parts needed for 0° rear toe?
Thanks for these videos. The D4 is my first RWD drifter and I experienced these same issues. I have switched to HPI T drifts front and rear and moved the battery to the back. If you could do a suspension video for this kit I'd appreciate it. I'm curious to know how to tune the shocks for the Battery in the rear.
What length tie rod did you end up going with up top?
+Derigortron not sure the length. We just used ones we had in the spare parts pile and it fit. With 0 KPI you'll need the upper and lower arms to be around the same length then then adjust the camber to get a flat leading wheel at full lock.
+Afro's RC Club did you use a yokomo axle stub with the drb415?
Derigortron The Yokomo Axle stub will work with the DRB-415. Just need the bearings as well.
We are using the following parts in this video.
- www.rcmart.com/axle-shaft-front-p-56997.html
- DRB-415 or DRB-415s
- BB-105-2 (Need 2 which = 4 Bearings)
The KPI part is out of stock. Do you know of another seller? Or can I use something else? Thanks
Hey just getting into the hobby and I'm trying to understand shock settings with oil vs air any pro and cons
now doing what you did to the d4 steering would you still use the d4 front end for the HPI sprint 2
+Louis Richey not sure about the D4 steering on the Sprint 2. If you are looking to do a RWD Sprint 2, maybe using the R31 house slide rack would be a better option.
Would you please tell what is the new silver aluminum knuckle used in the last part of the video?
should this work?
www.rcmart.com/aluminum-high-adjustability-steering-suspension-knuckle-3racing-sakura-p-71594.html
6:08 what wheel/tyre and rim is that? Like the exact one
What is the blue knuckles and wheels?
what i need to buy for fix steering issues?if i buy SAK-D4821/V2 is ok or i need and something else.help please
Zio Opc The best thing to do is to go to usukani's website and they have everything you would need to fix the steering issues
i order that sak-d4821 from rc mart.i hope to works better
What kind of turnbuckles did you use for the top on the front?
how big or how much mm is the other turnbuckle that you used?
What type of screw did you use to lengthen the upper arm?
+PDIAZJDM93 we just used a longer turnbuckle than stock because of the 0 KPI. not sure the length. We just used ones we had in the spare parts pile and it fit. With 0 KPI you'll need the upper and lower arms to be around the same length then then adjust the camber to get a flat leading wheel at full lock.
Afro's RC Club sounds good, thank you for the response.
How long does it take to wear through a set of those hpi tires?
where do you get the drb carriers? I cant find
thumbs up for your skateboard tshirt!!
Front knuckles are very expensive in that link that you gave to us. Is there any way cheaper?
+Va Bubi in the comments they give the part number for the plastic DRB knuckles. DRB-415S
+Gaelen Norman Will these fit? www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B019XXVYV8/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?qid=1455962426&sr=8-1-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=drb-415s+front+knuckles
+Va Bubi you MIGHT be able to make them work. but I'd suggest using what they suggested.
+Gaelen Norman I really appritiate your help but will these be good too? www.asiatees.com/display?id=114489&brand=3Racing&model=Sakura%20D4%20AWD
+Va Bubi I haven't got a clue sorry. I really do suggest buying what Afro says. he's never steered me wrong
really nice :) but plss help me what to buy for this kind of changes. tnx a lot
+June Alber Maturan the front knuckle used is the DRB-415. You will need the correct bearings and front axle that works with the DRB-415.
is the original axle of sakura D4 will fit on the DRB knuckle? can you give me the exact model/part no. of your alluminum knuckle. IB-415G, 415S1 is this same?
is there any benefit from using the metal carrier versus the drb-415 plastic one?
+Gripsstudios no difference, the DRB-415 plastic is what we use at the RC Club. It's cheaper so when it gets damaged and needs to be replaced it doesn't hurt the bank.
How long are the turnbuckles you used for the upper arms?
hi Victor.. it all depends on what gives you a flat leeding wheel every car is different
AFRO slide im using that exact same chassis as the video
@@victorbarajas4705 so the best thing to do is put it on a very flat services and turn the sevo all the way left and look if r
the wheel is flat .. the do the right wheel .. if both are flat the you have what you need
I change my front knuckles on this bad boy, and put some new mst ones on
For the steering, did you Just need a New KPI or More parts?
Max Yes only the KPI has been changed on the front end... but I did make the top adjustable and the bottom is adjustable from factory
What are the blue knuckles called that u had
Father & son 120y it is a yokomo drb or dib ... the best why to fix your car is to go online and type in Usukani .. they have a web store that sell every thing U need to make your car work!
What's the DRB Aluminium knuckle part number l
+Reindale Hill that one should be DRB-415S.
Hi
Please tell me where i can get all the Sakura parts in your video
Tyron Scholtz what part are u talking about
I from spain and y want this parts, mi inglish is bad i don t now were y need to buy in your page.... How can i contact w u?
Hey wassup afroMan Been watching and building... I was wondering if you can give me the link to but the deb knuckles
Blong Vang hi... it is probably the easiest thing to do is go on a company like RC Mart or even RC art or even better than them I would go to tetsujin and they have everything you would ever need
What carrier is the blue carrier?
The silver one at 11:05 I meant
+RC Formula drift and wots drb stand for?
they include the 0 degree rear toe block aswell as a 1 degree im not having any understeer or push issues running stock uprights
my wheels also dont rub on lower arm on full lock either ...................
+Michael Willett from your videos it looks like you have changed quite a bit of parts on your D4 already. We built this car step by step with the instructions with all parts in the box first. We also copied their setup sheet. This was our baseline. If you built the car the same way, I would think that you would have had the same results.
+Michael Willett If you received 1 degree and 0 degree rear toe blocks then it's either missing from our box or you got something special. Our package in Bag 1 only had rear 3 Degree Toe In.
i.imgur.com/VYovG51.jpg
went back to stock uprights again a drive later only changed dampers and y arms out.
Yeah they included 0 1 and 3 degree blocks in mine and 2 other of my froends also received them in their kits too
Otherwhise 3 racing had them avqilable in alloy as they re used them from other chassis too
Great video, explaines a lot. Did you have any problems with locking steering? I did so many mods that I have 90deg lock with standard or mst knuckles, but with both my steering locks at gull turn to the right. At full lock and releasing turn the arm goes too far out and pulls the wheel for further rather than back. Any fix for that or any idea? Thanks
what is the length of the turnbuckle
Corey Pratt it all depends on what you have on your car and what you need to do to make the lead wheel flat
Afro's RC Club thanks man but I just ordered my d4 yesterday but thanks for the videos they help alot and keep up the good work and content
What is that tyre called
Father & son 120y the front tires are from hpi it is a typeA
the silver drb knuckle doesn't give any KPI, it's 0deg. the reason the wheel is flat at the of the video is because there is no caster.
So what’s the difference between KPI and caster… Or better yet how does KPI affect caster or vice versa anyway, I’m sure you realize this was at least eight years ago
Back then my English was really pathetic. Anyway, have a good one. Thank you.
@@Afrorc Hi afro, sorry my mistake, I just read the video description, it was your intention to remove KPI for some reason I though this is a video about adding KPI to fix the problem but what you're doing is removing it. Love your work.
Yeah idk why he's harping on about needing almost 90 degrees of angle. From what I have read and been told 70-75 is the max amount of angle you will ever need pretty much. Also you could just trim the steering to solve the issue.
the more lock the more the more you can get away with ..
The ball bearings are too far away from each other in full lock
I think your knuckles are upside down dude. I don't have this issue on my Sakura d4. It does have 10deg of casted but all that's really doing is pivoting the knuckle for faster steering. I bet if u were to flip your knuckles u wouldn't have that issue. I maxed out my negative camber to where only about a 1/8 of an inch has contact when the tire is facing forward and at full lock both leading and trailing arm are at the same grip patch. I also kicked some toe out as well.
Ignore that, just checked and my knuckles are different then what u had. Sakura must have updated them by now. I have 2 mounting positions for the upper arm. Offset, like the one u had issues with, or I can place the ball mount parallel to the lower ball mount(what I did) and to gain a bit more lock I went ahead and trimmed the plastic tab that is offset for the upper ball mount. Again ignore my first comment your knuckles are on right. 😁
Can i Remove this Problem with lower steering Angle or did i need this high angle with a RWD?