Wow! This was so very helpful! Thank you, thank you, thank you for walking us through a very scary process, showing us how to do it safely, and very kindly sharing your 300-gram amber/350 ML ratio formula. This was so much fun to watch. All your you-tube presentations are first class, and your instruments spectacular! With so much appreciation, David Lee
If I may, another suggestion from the lab. If you get a lab stand and a beaker clamp (and put the whole setup on a flat, not flammable base) you will be less likely to have the beaker tip over and cause a fire. Don't clamp too hard, just close it enough to stop it from tipping over. And, as others have said, Thank you for sharing.
Thank you so much Andy! Best advice for everybody: don't meet with others, stay where you are, use your time to spend less and to learn what you always didn't learn because you didn't have enough time. Stay home all the best from Cremona ER
Your method is less haphazard than many I have experienced in the past. I will watching your video about applying this batch of varnish to your crafted instrument. Enjoyed the presentation.
I tried to duplicate this process. I the Amber I used was Jewelers quality Stones around 8 to 10 millimeters. Temperature for Amber to melt is somewhere around 500 degrees and my glass wouldn't hold up and it broke but luckily it wasn't extremely liquid yet and I was able to save my Amber. also the Amber started on fire many times before it was even completely melted.. nearly 2 hours later ... I just finished varnishing my second violin and it end up to be a very nice varnish.. one option for those without a UV box: substitute 100 ml of the linseed oil for turpentine spirits. it spreads well and cures much faster.. about a week for full cure in indirect sunlight.. good day!! And thanks Edgar!
In my old days in the lab we used to put wire mesh (wire gauze) between the fire and the glass, to protect it from cracking. Might be worth a try? And thanks a lot for the very good information in your video's - really appreciated!
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wire_gauze According to wiki it is “essential to diffuse the flame and prevent cracking the glass,” presumably thermal shock from uneven heating.
@@EdgarRuss hi master greetings from Costa Rica I have a question well I know how to wash the oil but I don’t know how to cook the oil I mean I don’t know the time and at what temperature to cook it
Hello, dear Mr. Edgar Also, thank you for the tutorials that you published I have a question about making varnish. When I heat the sandros and they melt, as soon as I remove them from the flame, they harden again and do not stay in a liquid state. Some people say that you should also use a solvent. If this is true, what solvent should I use? Another question: How should the heating speed be?
Thanx for all the info! Didnt tou say though that that kremer coocked oil needed to be washed before? In min.16:19 you pour the oil directly from the original kremer bottle! Was it previously washed or it doesent matter! Thanx again
Hello Edgar, If I can't get amber, would pine resin or rosin be a reasonablly okay substitute? If not, would you please let me know the differences between making oil varnish with amber vs rosin? Many thanks, M
Hi. Really thanks a lot about all the vidio that you prepare for everybody and specially with your nice english guys. It not only much more professional than what I know when I'm standing in the conservatory but also many details and the points attention . 20 years before maybe everything you telling it the secret. That i think... Can I aks what the motivation about you make the video?
Hi, Edgar. Do you think varnish formulation would be good for an acoustic guitar? I know guitars are not your forte, but I value your opinion. Thank you.
Well actually I started with guitars and if I would have these 6 hours more every ay I probably would build guitars as well because I always liked them very much. On guitars a harder varnish increases its sound. That's why a different varnish is used. Thanks for your comment All the best from Cremona
Hello. Very clear and concise video of the whole process, i like it! By the way, i have a question. Do you have any experience with copal resin, is the process the same? I paint with oil colors and i would like to make my own copal varnish. For instance: can i melt Manilla copal resin and then heat Linseed oil (high quality, ready to use oil sold by art material manufacturers) and then combine them? And should i add turpentine? Say i put 300gr resin, 300ml oil and how much ml turp? What do you suggest? I do not want the varnish to be too runny, flowy, i would like it to have a slightly thicker consistency.
After a wood preparation you can apply it and varnish an instrument. The result without pigments and colors would be light brown. Cute but not sexy enough to be chosen because of its beauty. Remember that before varnishing with oil varnish you need to protect the plain wood of soaking in the entire varnish. You want the varnish ON your instrument and not IN the nice wood of your instrument. ER
Thank you once again for showing this process. When heating the amber, then the oil, and finally the combined amber and oil, did you keep the gas at the same setting? When the oil darkens is that the time to mix it with the amber? Thank you once again I will try this later in the year when the weather is warmer.
Hi, Yes more or less I left it always at the same size of fire. But in my case call it experience. No problem to regulate. As strong as possible without that it is passing over and goes right into the flame creating a nice fire which is not easy to extinguish. ER
Edgar Russ Distinguished Violinmaker Thank you, is the varnish ready to apply having been left for a time? How long does it take for a coat to dry, or do you add a sicative or some other type of dryer.
Did you use that propotion of varnish on your enstrumants. Whats your opinion. İtsd better or not. 300gr.350ml is better or linseed oil must be more. Thank you.
looks like a raw amber pieces. colophony have a dark colour, almost black. source i guess is kremer, and they got this amber from baltic sea, perhaps kaliningrad (russia)
Dear Edgar, may I ask, have you ever stained maple ribs and back with aqua fortis before varnishing? Has this been done on instruments in the past? Would there be reasons not to use ferric nitrate on instruments?
Good question! But personally I believe that they used very little fancy stuff. Most likely they got sunlight treating their unvarnished instruments. So my answer is rather that they took more time instead of tricky ingredients. Except they faced other disadvantages. Such as, that the varnish soaks into the wood and therefore they had to treat the surface to avoid this. Yellow of the egg (tempra) or thin layer of hot glue, or casein with calcium eco but this will be another video after we got over the Corona. all the best ER
I do not add Turpentine anymore since it attracts too much the dust. Yes I will show in a specific video washing the oil. But first we have to sty home and get over the corona all the best ER
Edgar I gave two questions: 1. linseed oil used in this process is before washed and cooked, or cooking only takes place during the process you show? 2. Do you ad turpentine after it is cooled down sufficiently, and how much in relation to the ingredients quantity? GRAZIE!
Yes, always wash the linseed oil! Heating up over 300 degrees Celsius gives the right kick that the oil can be used for varnish cooking 2) yes I add a little turpentine! But little in order that the final varnish does become brushable but not too liquid. Maybe somehow a 1/6 of the total quantity. Make sure to use fresh and not yet oxidated turpentine. The problem is that turpentine attracts too much dust.
it turns out very nice. But Never varnish on raw wood. First we have to prepare the wooden surface. Otherwise the oil varnish is soaking in and the result would be like pouring olive oil on blank wood. But this will be another video. Wood preparation for oil varnish. all the best ER
Hi Sergio, I purchase already cooked linseed oil. Washing is just a double-checking process in order to be secure to get the right result. Good or good ? all the best ER
@@ΛέανδροςΠαπαδάκης yeah wow 0_0 amber is super expensive! Hey please let me know how your oil varnish made with pine resin instead of amber works out. I'm interested in trying this to if it works :)
Lovely descriptions of the process,, but really hard to see what you are talking about at a fixed (pretty distant) camera view. Some close ups, especially of the drop samples you took, would have been very interesting
You are completely right! I actually made everything to get some great pictures to show you... but the cleaning staff has thrown away the glass jar. 😤 I will cook again and focus on this part. promise ER
Complex scale, I would use and Amazon digital scale. The open flame with boiling oil would not be for me though he's done it enough times to show it's safe, I would use an electric hot plate outside on dirt or concrete. Looking to make real boiled linseed for oil varnish and waxes. Precooking the amber is something others did not do, though some other maker slow cooked his varnish at a low temperature a whole week till it went from liquid to heavy consistency. I suspect cooked amber would add additional natural cooked color to the oil or spirit varnish. How does the varnish keep for 5 years, a few years in a container and I open it up it is hard, I guess many smaller jars with little air is the answer.
In the US I think we'd call that a balance as well since it's balancing two weights. Scales in the US would be for weighing one thing and measuring the weight.
Put a lid on it to limit smoking (but not all because essential oils must come out towards the end of pyrogenation) It has a very pleasant smell right? ahahahahahah
self sustaining exothermic reaction ? " then you will be blown up into the air" , get a million views , "there are better ways in violin making to become famous "
amber is fossilized tree resin. I use fresh pine resin. yes it needs cobalt for drying..japan dry. Oil? What oil?? Lots of talk, very little definition of terms! Im left going ????
I Think, in 'translation'.. copal rosin is meant, wich is partly hardened pine rosin, not amber, wich i t would becbme, when completely fossilised, and would not desolve,as it is then mineralised.. only become more pliable. (very expensive as well) as mentionned also 'cooked linseed oil' (thicker, and already oxidised) but later Edgar says he is using linölfirniss' from the firm Kremer (very good firm) wich is, basically linseed oil, with a manganese catalisator in it, probably some copal too,..( Should look it up)
So, colophonium,.. Pine rosin,.. Then hardened old pine rosin, known as Copal rosin, then Amber, wich is a mineralised rosin, and not the buisness here,.
@@47artisan lots to learn making varnish from natural substance! I would think tung oil would be wonderful but clearly some additives are important as well as the cooking process. Thanks
@@douglundy5755 I spent most of my life, learning, and still, to be a restorer. In working with those materials, over the years, one devellops a certain feel for it, living next to the 'scientific" scope of things. I' m 56 now, still learning. There is no one truth, but many versions, and many basicly stupid things one can do. One should however Never trust one seeming to pretend to knowing all.
The thing, with copal, is,.. Like colophonium, (simple pine rosin) it can be disolved both in the alcohol family of solvents, as in the terpentine side of solvents,.. Combining it with oil, you need to go turpentine (a rosin distillate) combining it with shellac, one needs to go alcohol,.. Both will result in a different cristalline structural material, different hardness, flexibility,... As to linseed oil, wich one usually adds a catalysator to,.. Usually cobalt,.. Better, manganese (less rubbery) the best remains, add a lead siccative. Very potent resulting in a betterand more complete in the mass oxidation. By far superior to any so called healthyer substitute..
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I enjoyed watching the process very much. Thank you.
I'm so glad you enjoyed it! Thank you for watching and supporting the craft. It means a lot! 🎻😊
Fantastic!!! thank you for the amazing videos!
Wow! This was so very helpful! Thank you, thank you, thank you for walking us through a very scary process, showing us how to do it safely, and very kindly sharing your 300-gram amber/350 ML ratio formula. This was so much fun to watch. All your you-tube presentations are first class, and your instruments spectacular! With so much appreciation, David Lee
Edgar, thank you for sharing your 35 years of knowledge and expertise. This video has given me the confidence to make my own varnish.
If I may, another suggestion from the lab. If you get a lab stand and a beaker clamp (and put the whole setup on a flat, not flammable base) you will be less likely to have the beaker tip over and cause a fire. Don't clamp too hard, just close it enough to stop it from tipping over. And, as others have said, Thank you for sharing.
Wishing you all the best from England, stay safe and hope things get back to normal life soon. Thinking of you all in Italy. Best Wishes.
Thank you so much Andy!
Best advice for everybody: don't meet with others, stay where you are, use your time to spend less and to learn what you always didn't learn because you didn't have enough time.
Stay home
all the best from Cremona
ER
Thanks for showing the whole process I thought it was more difficult but you explain it very well
Your method is less haphazard than many I have experienced in the past. I will watching your video about applying this batch of varnish to your crafted instrument. Enjoyed the presentation.
Edgar, thank you for sharing so precious knowledge.
Hi Edgar, It is nice to see your each & every posts. Clear explanation can understand anyone. Keep it up
Can the amber be replaced by colophony and dammar?
Very nice raking, Edgar. You are working hard as usual. Hello form Portland, Oregon.
Edgar, I love your videos...they are very informative and entertaining!
Brad Jensen thanks a lot! Glad you like my humor!
ER
Finally! thank you for sharing! this is what I need (maybe other too).
Thanks for your nice comment
ER
You are amazing, thank you.
I tried to duplicate this process. I the Amber I used was Jewelers quality Stones around 8 to 10 millimeters. Temperature for Amber to melt is somewhere around 500 degrees and my glass wouldn't hold up and it broke but luckily it wasn't extremely liquid yet and I was able to save my Amber. also the Amber started on fire many times before it was even completely melted.. nearly 2 hours later
... I just finished varnishing my second violin and it end up to be a very nice varnish.. one option for those without a UV box: substitute 100 ml of the linseed oil for turpentine spirits. it spreads well and cures much faster.. about a week for full cure in indirect sunlight.. good day!! And thanks Edgar!
In my old days in the lab we used to put wire mesh (wire gauze) between the fire and the glass, to protect it from cracking. Might be worth a try?
And thanks a lot for the very good information in your video's - really appreciated!
Jan Vereertbrugghen thanks for your advice! I will try next time I am cooking!
All the best
ER
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wire_gauze According to wiki it is “essential to diffuse the flame and prevent cracking the glass,” presumably thermal shock from uneven heating.
@@EdgarRuss hi master greetings from Costa Rica I have a question well I know how to wash the oil but I don’t know how to cook the oil I mean I don’t know the time and at what temperature to cook it
Nice video, thanks
Memides Rahimpour trank you very much!
ER
i love your videos i always learn something new!
Thanks a lot for your kind comment
all the best
ER
Thanks for sharing. Waiting for the ground varnish.
Thank you a lot for sharing so much experience with us! ♡
Hello, dear Mr. Edgar
Also, thank you for the tutorials that you published
I have a question about making varnish.
When I heat the sandros and they melt, as soon as I remove them from the flame, they harden again and do not stay in a liquid state. Some people say that you should also use a solvent. If this is true, what solvent should I use?
Another question:
How should the heating speed be?
Hi Edgar , Would it be the same basic process with other resins ?
Thank you from Ken
Thanx for all the info! Didnt tou say though that that kremer coocked oil needed to be washed before? In min.16:19 you pour the oil directly from the original kremer bottle! Was it previously washed or it doesent matter!
Thanx again
varnish toys would be great.
Thanks for the video. What is the sound track that played while you raked of the leaves in the surrounding?
Hello Edgar,
If I can't get amber, would pine resin or rosin be a reasonablly okay substitute?
If not, would you please let me know the differences between making oil varnish with amber vs rosin?
Many thanks,
M
Hi.
Really thanks a lot about all the vidio that you prepare for everybody and specially with your nice english guys.
It not only much more professional than what I know when I'm standing in the conservatory but also many details and the points attention . 20 years before maybe everything you telling it the secret. That i think...
Can I aks what the motivation about you make the video?
Hi, Edgar.
Do you think varnish formulation would be good for an acoustic guitar?
I know guitars are not your forte, but I value your opinion. Thank you.
Well actually I started with guitars and if I would have these 6 hours more every ay I probably would build guitars as well because I always liked them very much.
On guitars a harder varnish increases its sound. That's why a different varnish is used.
Thanks for your comment
All the best from Cremona
Alguien sabe que tipo de aciete de linaza?? En frío? Purificado? Cual??
Hello. Very clear and concise video of the whole process, i like it! By the way, i have a question. Do you have any experience with copal resin, is the process the same? I paint with oil colors and i would like to make my own copal varnish. For instance: can i melt Manilla copal resin and then heat Linseed oil (high quality, ready to use oil sold by art material manufacturers) and then combine them? And should i add turpentine? Say i put 300gr resin, 300ml oil and how much ml turp? What do you suggest? I do not want the varnish to be too runny, flowy, i would like it to have a slightly thicker consistency.
Interesting ,how is the result (coloration) when you apply this varnish( without any pigments) on a violin in the white ?
After a wood preparation you can apply it and varnish an instrument. The result without pigments and colors would be light brown. Cute but not sexy enough to be chosen because of its beauty.
Remember that before varnishing with oil varnish you need to protect the plain wood of soaking in the entire varnish.
You want the varnish ON your instrument and not IN the nice wood of your instrument.
ER
@@EdgarRuss Thank you !
Hello again, thank you very informative video. Where do you get the amber?
how did you manage to melt amber without vacuum ?Is it pure amber or rosin from amber?
it is pure amber.
Not difficult at all. Just get it on the fire.
be careful and all the best
ER
Thank you once again for showing this process. When heating the amber, then the oil, and finally the combined amber and oil, did you keep the gas at the same setting? When the oil darkens is that the time to mix it with the amber? Thank you once again I will try this later in the year when the weather is warmer.
Hi, Yes more or less I left it always at the same size of fire. But in my case call it experience. No problem to regulate. As strong as possible without that it is passing over and goes right into the flame creating a nice fire which is not easy to extinguish.
ER
Edgar Russ Distinguished Violinmaker Thank you, is the varnish ready to apply having been left for a time? How long does it take for a coat to dry, or do you add a sicative or some other type of dryer.
Did you use that propotion of varnish on your enstrumants. Whats your opinion. İtsd better or not. 300gr.350ml is better or linseed oil must be more. Thank you.
Great videos! Are you using actual fossil amber or just pine resin colophony? If Amber, what is your source? Thanks!
looks like a raw amber pieces. colophony have a dark colour, almost black. source i guess is kremer, and they got this amber from baltic sea, perhaps kaliningrad (russia)
The process is the same with rosin ? Someone help me please 😢
Dear Edgar, may I ask, have you ever stained maple ribs and back with aqua fortis before varnishing? Has this been done on instruments in the past? Would there be reasons not to use ferric nitrate on instruments?
Good question! But personally I believe that they used very little fancy stuff. Most likely they got sunlight treating their unvarnished instruments. So my answer is rather that they took more time instead of tricky ingredients. Except they faced other disadvantages. Such as, that the varnish soaks into the wood and therefore they had to treat the surface to avoid this.
Yellow of the egg (tempra) or thin layer of hot glue, or casein with calcium eco
but this will be another video after we got over the Corona.
all the best
ER
will you also show cooking and washing lindseed oil process? Also you didnt show turpentine adding
I do not add Turpentine anymore since it attracts too much the dust.
Yes I will show in a specific video washing the oil.
But first we have to sty home and get over the corona
all the best
ER
Edgar I gave two questions:
1. linseed oil used in this process is before washed and cooked, or cooking only takes place during the process you show?
2. Do you ad turpentine after it is cooled down sufficiently, and how much in relation to the ingredients quantity?
GRAZIE!
Yes, always wash the linseed oil!
Heating up over 300 degrees Celsius gives the right kick that the oil can be used for varnish cooking
2) yes I add a little turpentine!
But little in order that the final varnish does become brushable but not too liquid. Maybe somehow a 1/6 of the total quantity.
Make sure to use fresh and not yet oxidated turpentine.
The problem is that turpentine attracts too much dust.
hello Edgar Greetings from Egypt
what is the name of the company that sells amber and how do i contact them.
Kremer Pigmente
In Germany or in the US
👋🏼
Ah, nice cooking lesson. I‘ curious how it turnes out on wood.
it turns out very nice.
But Never varnish on raw wood. First we have to prepare the wooden surface. Otherwise the oil varnish is soaking in and the result would be like pouring olive oil on blank wood.
But this will be another video. Wood preparation for oil varnish.
all the best
ER
whats wrong with using a chinese wok to cook the amber in ?
Hi Master, i have a question the lindsey oil is cooked before this step or only washed? I realy apreciate your videos, i 've learned a lot THANK YOU
Hi Sergio,
I purchase already cooked linseed oil.
Washing is just a double-checking process in order to be secure to get the right result.
Good or good ?
all the best
ER
Back yard alchemy with Edgar!
why are they taking the solar panels off your roof ?
Hello friend, I am subscribed to your channel, I really like to watch your videos, do you have the website or ad link to buy raw ambar.
I'm surprised that noone has asked that question
But ....Where do you buy amber in bulk
Actually it is available in several places, good ones are Kremer Pigmente or Raw Baltic Amber just as examples.
@@jancamek3330 Thanks mate
I will stick to the colophony pine resin the amber is hellishly expensive
@@ΛέανδροςΠαπαδάκης yeah wow 0_0 amber is super expensive! Hey please let me know how your oil varnish made with pine resin instead of amber works out. I'm interested in trying this to if it works :)
I wonder how elevation would affect the outcome. I know water boils at different temperatures based on elevation.
Эдвард спасибо вам большое, летом варил лак по вашему рецепту. Многая вам и благая лета!!! С любовью из России
Hi can you help me please I have a couple of doubts
@@bricotico6498 ruclips.net/video/XX7lfImaQd4/видео.html
Lovely descriptions of the process,, but really hard to see what you are talking about at a fixed (pretty distant) camera view. Some close ups, especially of the drop samples you took, would have been very interesting
You are completely right!
I actually made everything to get some great pictures to show you... but the cleaning staff has thrown away the glass jar. 😤
I will cook again and focus on this part.
promise
ER
Complex scale, I would use and Amazon digital scale. The open flame with boiling oil would not be for me though he's done it enough times to show it's safe, I would use an electric hot plate outside on dirt or concrete. Looking to make real boiled linseed for oil varnish and waxes. Precooking the amber is something others did not do, though some other maker slow cooked his varnish at a low temperature a whole week till it went from liquid to heavy consistency. I suspect cooked amber would add additional natural cooked color to the oil or spirit varnish. How does the varnish keep for 5 years, a few years in a container and I open it up it is hard, I guess many smaller jars with little air is the answer.
extremely refreshing to see a video on cooking varnish safely as opposed to all the other vids here on cooking meth and crack dangerously in a trailer
I’ve heard that certain makers aged their varnish for many years/decades before using it. Sometimes even passing it on to the next generation.
And that's how you make crystal meth.
sorry I don't understand what meth means.
Please explain your comment.
Thanks
Edgar
Todos los anuncios durante el vídeo han sido de comida.....😂
The englanders say "balance", the Yanks say "scale"
In the US I think we'd call that a balance as well since it's balancing two weights. Scales in the US would be for weighing one thing and measuring the weight.
Put a lid on it to limit smoking (but not all because essential oils must come out towards the end of pyrogenation)
It has a very pleasant smell right? ahahahahahah
Estamuilejoslacamaraparaverproseso
Oops! I didn’t get this one!
😂
self sustaining exothermic reaction ? " then you will be blown up into the air" , get a million views , "there are better ways in violin making to become famous "
amber is fossilized tree resin. I use fresh pine resin. yes it needs cobalt for drying..japan dry. Oil? What oil?? Lots of talk, very little definition of terms! Im left going ????
I Think, in 'translation'.. copal rosin is meant, wich is partly hardened pine rosin, not amber, wich i t would becbme, when completely fossilised, and would not desolve,as it is then mineralised.. only become more pliable. (very expensive as well) as mentionned also 'cooked linseed oil' (thicker, and already oxidised) but later Edgar says he is using linölfirniss' from the firm Kremer (very good firm) wich is, basically linseed oil, with a manganese catalisator in it, probably some copal too,..( Should look it up)
So, colophonium,.. Pine rosin,.. Then hardened old pine rosin, known as Copal rosin, then Amber, wich is a mineralised rosin, and not the buisness here,.
@@47artisan lots to learn making varnish from natural substance! I would think tung oil would be wonderful but clearly some additives are important as well as the cooking process. Thanks
@@douglundy5755 I spent most of my life, learning, and still, to be a restorer.
In working with those materials, over the years, one devellops a certain feel for it, living next to the 'scientific" scope of things. I' m 56 now, still learning. There is no one truth, but many versions, and many basicly stupid things one can do. One should however Never trust one seeming to pretend to knowing all.
The thing, with copal, is,.. Like colophonium, (simple pine rosin) it can be disolved both in the alcohol family of solvents, as in the terpentine side of solvents,..
Combining it with oil, you need to go turpentine (a rosin distillate) combining it with shellac, one needs to go alcohol,.. Both will result in a different cristalline structural material, different hardness, flexibility,...
As to linseed oil, wich one usually adds a catalysator to,.. Usually cobalt,.. Better, manganese (less rubbery) the best remains, add a lead siccative. Very potent resulting in a betterand more complete in the mass oxidation. By far superior to any so called healthyer substitute..
Its not amber, it is rosin. Amber is a gemstone, it is fossilised rosin ...