Thank you so much for posting all of these videos. I am planing on trying to make a violin in the near future and your knowledge that you are sharing with us on RUclips is priceless. Thank you!
Thank you for all your wonderful videos! I am learning so much and my violin is sounding better! Do you have an opinion on "harp" tailpieces? I've been playing with one for about a year. I am liking the sound I get from g and d much better and still get lovely ringing sound from a and e. Thank you for sharing the knowledge!!
Simone Camplani dipende in quanto una volta ben mescolato deve separatsi in modo netto. Fallo e vedrai di ciò che parlo. 😊🤔😉 La cosa importante è di ripetere cambiando l’acqua fino che l’acqua rimane perfettamente trasparente! A questo punto sai che non c’è più glicerina nel tuo olio. Buone pulizie! ER
I'm planning to build a guitar with violin varnish. So, many thanks. Your lecture is very helpful. Can you let me know the product number of Linseed Oil from Kremer? Because I'm looking Kremer online shop but there are too many kind of linseed oil. Linseed oil from sweden, linseed oil, cold-pressed, linseed oil varnish etc etc... I guess #73100 is what you talk about. But, I'm not sure. Anyway, again, thanks a lot!
Dear Joshua, since I have never tasted my oil I do not know this detail. But I assume it gets rancid. The fact that it is getting rancid is a crear sign for your fresh olive oil that polymerization started and you can definitely use it for your oil varnish. I have used very kind of oil by now. especially since I know that I have to doublecheck the oil on Glicerin, things became very easy. Hope it will be the same for you. all the best and be careful ER
I would steer clear of boiled unless it is marketed as natural, 100% oil. Most boiled linseed oil I’ve ever seen on a shelf somewhere has metals added to make it cure faster and more reliably. You don’t want to be heating that stuff up, the fumes could be really nasty.
Thank you for your knowledge So if I understand correctly these are the steps? 1. Buy raw linseed oil 2. Wash it 3. Boil it to 100 degree than filter it 4. Now if I want to add lets say amber, i need to cook the amber and i need to boil the oil again? I have another question please: The first transparent coat on the violin will be a transparent linseed oil?
These are the exact questions I’ve been trying to get answered for years! Is it boiled linseed oil that I need to clean? What is the varnish that is clear? Is that the linseed oil? These questions I can never get answered. There seems to be no videos where they say. Hi, this varnish “ here” is the clear stuff you put first! Not answered. Ever!
Greetings from switzerland! First I want to say that I really enjoy your videos of violinmaking! They are very informative and they helped me alot for my current project. But this video about the varnish left me a bit confused. Maybe I have to say that I'm studying fine art atm and so far my main focus was on oil painting, so I got a bit of a background in terms of material knowledge and I think that this is the main cause of my confusion. You said in this video that every kind of transparent oil will do the job and pointed out that this can be eighter bought in a grocery or a shop for art supplies. In terms of oil painting we work with that material too - obviously ;) But the linseedoil we use to mix and thin the paint is a very refined version of the "salad linseed oil" with the characteristic that it hardens with the time. This refined version of the oil is toxic and shouldn't be used to make a homemade dressing. In fact you even have to pay attention how to throw it away because it can deal some serious damage to the nature if you just flush it down the toilet or something. We had cases in my school where students tried to thin their oilpaints with "Saladoils" because they thought that this would be smart and safe them some money because they are rather cheap compared to the artistoils for painting. But because the "saladoils" aren't hardening oils the result was that their paintings never fully dried and the paint remained in a semi-wet condition. It was a mess in the end. Can you explain why it's possible to use vegetable oils as a base material for violinvarnishes and how the varnish will differ from one made with a refined liseed oil you also mentioned in this video? How does it come that a varnish made - for example - with olive oil will harden while an oil paint mixed with a non-hardening oil will remain in a wet or semi-wet (depending on the amount of refined linseed oil in it) condition forever? Or does it just take a longer longer time to dry? I am very confused :S Please help me to put this in line a bit Thanks in advance!
In woodworking circles, it is often repeated that warming a hardening plant oil such as walnut, linseed, grapeseed, hastens polymerization. I have used plenty of these on all sorts of woods and they don’t cause any problems, except raw linseed oil stayed tacky, and I have never tried it again. However, none of these oils have ever hardened in a jar in the window sill for months (a tiny amount). They all failed to polymerize on their own, so I don’t know if they really do in the wood or not (they don’t go rancid so I guess they do). I have had raw Tung oil stay tacky, and then go rancid. (For woodworkers: I’ve also found that a few years in the drafty garage can cure the smell.) I would guess that the toxic expensive artists’ oils are treated with a metal (used to be lead) drying agent. I can’t think why a heat treated oil would be toxic... In that case they are probably a rip-off and you ought to be able to find someone that knows how to prepare it properly, perhaps a museum, someone who knows something about restoration.
Most hardware store “natural” oils contain toxic drying additives, and some very little of the advertised oil. I am also curious about olive oil; the resins must make it work. What I originally wanted to say was I wonder if washing a “hardening” oil makes it actually harden, since Edgar says the glycerin stops the oil varnish from hardening.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
I don't know how to show my deep appreciation for all the knowledge you share. Thank you, thank you and thank you.
I am so happy to read you comment, Raphael! Thanks for watching!!
Have a great day,
All the best
I love it
Thank you so much for posting all of these videos. I am planing on trying to make a violin in the near future and your knowledge that you are sharing with us on RUclips is priceless. Thank you!
Great Seth! I am happy to help you a little!
All the best from Cremona
ER
Thank you so much for sharing in this and all of your videos! I found it particularly interesting that you can "wash" varnish that doesn't dry well.
Great! I am happy to hear that you learned even today something!
all the best from Cremona
ER
Great video thanks. I believe that one of Kremer's leinol products is already clean so could be used without washing, in principle.
Great information!Please go on about varnishing. Would be great to share the whole process from the white violin.
I am giving my best!
thanks for your comment.
all the best
ER
Thank you for all your wonderful videos! I am learning so much and my violin is sounding better! Do you have an opinion on "harp" tailpieces? I've been playing with one for about a year. I am liking the sound I get from g and d much better and still get lovely ringing sound from a and e. Thank you for sharing the knowledge!!
Quanto tempo lo lasci al sole dopo averlo lavato?
Simone Camplani dipende in quanto una volta ben mescolato deve separatsi in modo netto.
Fallo e vedrai di ciò che parlo.
😊🤔😉
La cosa importante è di ripetere cambiando l’acqua fino che l’acqua rimane perfettamente trasparente!
A questo punto sai che non c’è più glicerina nel tuo olio.
Buone pulizie!
ER
I'm planning to build a guitar with violin varnish. So, many thanks. Your lecture is very helpful. Can you let me know the product number of Linseed Oil from Kremer? Because I'm looking Kremer online shop but there are too many kind of linseed oil. Linseed oil from sweden, linseed oil, cold-pressed, linseed oil varnish etc etc... I guess #73100 is what you talk about. But, I'm not sure. Anyway, again, thanks a lot!
Edgar do you notice Lindseed oil going rancid, and do you use both cold press AND boiled if so which for what? ✌🍻🍻🍻
Dear Joshua, since I have never tasted my oil I do not know this detail. But I assume it gets rancid. The fact that it is getting rancid is a crear sign for your fresh olive oil that polymerization started and you can definitely use it for your oil varnish.
I have used very kind of oil by now. especially since I know that I have to doublecheck the oil on Glicerin, things became very easy.
Hope it will be the same for you.
all the best and be careful
ER
I would steer clear of boiled unless it is marketed as natural, 100% oil. Most boiled linseed oil I’ve ever seen on a shelf somewhere has metals added to make it cure faster and more reliably. You don’t want to be heating that stuff up, the fumes could be really nasty.
How about a turkey “baster”? (Not sure on the spelling.) A cooking tool to draw up liquids. Would allow you to easily get only the oil.
www.webstaurantstore.com/11-glass-turkey-baster-with-rubber-bulb/7145678.html?GoogleShopping&gclid=CjwKCAjw19z6BRAYEiwAmo64LcVwiQJL6BIuRo9uIDGPM2nC_ZFVupPG6ePnBK-xpTWODJcFmZS_rBoCTyYQAvD_BwE
Thank you for your knowledge
So if I understand correctly these are the steps?
1. Buy raw linseed oil
2. Wash it
3. Boil it to 100 degree than filter it
4. Now if I want to add lets say amber, i need to cook the amber and i need to boil the oil again?
I have another question please:
The first transparent coat on the violin will be a transparent linseed oil?
These are the exact questions I’ve been trying to get answered for years!
Is it boiled linseed oil that I need to clean?
What is the varnish that is clear? Is that the linseed oil? These questions I can never get answered. There seems to be no videos where they say.
Hi, this varnish “ here” is the clear stuff you put first!
Not answered. Ever!
Greetings from switzerland!
First I want to say that I really enjoy your videos of violinmaking! They are very informative and they helped me alot for my current project.
But this video about the varnish left me a bit confused. Maybe I have to say that I'm studying fine art atm and so far my main focus was on oil painting, so I got a bit of a background in terms of material knowledge and I think that this is the main cause of my confusion.
You said in this video that every kind of transparent oil will do the job and pointed out that this can be eighter bought in a grocery or a shop for art supplies. In terms of oil painting we work with that material too - obviously ;)
But the linseedoil we use to mix and thin the paint is a very refined version of the "salad linseed oil" with the characteristic that it hardens with the time. This refined version of the oil is toxic and shouldn't be used to make a homemade dressing. In fact you even have to pay attention how to throw it away because it can deal some serious damage to the nature if you just flush it down the toilet or something.
We had cases in my school where students tried to thin their oilpaints with "Saladoils" because they thought that this would be smart and safe them some money because they are rather cheap compared to the artistoils for painting. But because the "saladoils" aren't hardening oils the result was that their paintings never fully dried and the paint remained in a semi-wet condition. It was a mess in the end.
Can you explain why it's possible to use vegetable oils as a base material for violinvarnishes and how the varnish will differ from one made with a refined liseed oil you also mentioned in this video?
How does it come that a varnish made - for example - with olive oil will harden while an oil paint mixed with a non-hardening oil will remain in a wet or semi-wet (depending on the amount of refined linseed oil in it) condition forever? Or does it just take a longer longer time to dry?
I am very confused :S
Please help me to put this in line a bit
Thanks in advance!
In woodworking circles, it is often repeated that warming a hardening plant oil such as walnut, linseed, grapeseed, hastens polymerization. I have used plenty of these on all sorts of woods and they don’t cause any problems, except raw linseed oil stayed tacky, and I have never tried it again. However, none of these oils have ever hardened in a jar in the window sill for months (a tiny amount). They all failed to polymerize on their own, so I don’t know if they really do in the wood or not (they don’t go rancid so I guess they do). I have had raw Tung oil stay tacky, and then go rancid. (For woodworkers: I’ve also found that a few years in the drafty garage can cure the smell.)
I would guess that the toxic expensive artists’ oils are treated with a metal (used to be lead) drying agent. I can’t think why a heat treated oil would be toxic... In that case they are probably a rip-off and you ought to be able to find someone that knows how to prepare it properly, perhaps a museum, someone who knows something about restoration.
Most hardware store “natural” oils contain toxic drying additives, and some very little of the advertised oil.
I am also curious about olive oil; the resins must make it work. What I originally wanted to say was I wonder if washing a “hardening” oil makes it actually harden, since Edgar says the glycerin stops the oil varnish from hardening.
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