Making linseed oil; a process
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- A look at my process for making linseed oil.
For more information, and to see some of my work ,please visit my website joebesch.com/li...
My instagram has process photos of painting and paint making experiments / joebesch
i will NEVER again complain about the price of linseed oil!! wow!
Commercial linseed oil stops after the basic filtering process. The bleaching is usually also done chemically and doesn't effectively the yellowing properties when it dries, it just looks pale like the sun cleared one.
It's great to be able to do everything yourself, which is just to get everything you can't do yourself
This is the best video I have seen in a long time. I love the pace, the little typewriter notes and the sounds of the birds in the background. It was a very soothing experience and I also learned a lot.
Ditto, I totally agree!
Exactly 👏👏👍
Incredible process and easily one of my favorite style videos I’ve ever seen on RUclips.
Love this video. I'm a Violinmaker and I now press my own flax oil. Everybody thinks it's overkill but it's really the only way to get top quality oil.
I am a professional woodfinisher, old guy.Started to use Alback linseed oil on outside teak furniture,well i soon found out that the furniture turned grey and green within a few months., the truth is i think that the tradesmen 50 years ago knew about linseedoil, there is a lot more to it than the washing.
Jacob
I know its an old comment, but I saw it and wanted to say I've had the same experience with Outside teak. I did though try using beeswax instead and that keeps the color looking great and doubles as water protection so the wood doesn't start rotting after standing outside for years on end. I usually re-apply every year, just to be on the safe side. Rather safe than sorry
Enjoyed your video! I mostly work with wood/exterior wood applications for linseed oil products and its really interesting that only the fine art community in the USA spends the time to refine the oil like you have. It seems very commonplace to use the oil with the protein still in it for carpentry applications for example, which is food for bugs/mildew, etc. Thanks!
Well-shot and well-made. Thanks for sharing!
Oh wow that’s a lot of work! May God Almighty bless the work of your hands!👍
Thanks. It's a labor of love
Amazing!
I will probably never do it in my life, but it is still good to know it for educational purposes. Thanks for sharing!
Totally cool man, this is some real chemistry and a solid traditional process that produces a valuable end material. kudos.
As a casual interior painter, this was terrific to watch...thanks!
Well done, Joe. Excellent video. Thanks.
Thank you!
Very educational video, I was very inmersed in the process.
currently making a playlist for all the videos and info I need to make my own paint completely from scratch, this is all I'll be able to think about for a while
Dear lord. Researching how to make paint from scratch. So much work goes into this! Thanks for this awesome video.
BennieGamali I'm doing the same thing. Looks like a LOT of work goes into it right?
Jupp! I can't seem too find too much info on how someone might gather pigments. Mostly it's about what the pigments themselves are called and where to buy them.. Or "crush berries and paint with the juice".
fantastic video!
very good video, i have been making my own linseed oil for a few years now, but i do take a short cut. i buy cool pressed flax oil thats refined .. then i separate ..
i have made a oil cloth using the oil for water proofing ...
with the ultra violet rays from the sun dries it ..
billy joe denny Hi... I think the modern refinement process takes away too many free radicals therefore it is a slowish drying oil...if it is done from scratch like in this video and then sun heated for a month it dries in roughly 30 hours.
I am in love with this process and need to do it now. Beautiful video.
Thank you, that means a lot
I have everything but the grinding mechanism to extract the oil from the seeds.
If I had that, I would make homemade oils of practically everything!!!!
Very nice video, love the sereneness of the birds chirping and the laid back ambiance.
Just discovered your channel from this video, really cool stuff
Thank you
I really love your style of videography as much as I love the actual content. Thank you so much for taking the time to share this. :-) I hope you'll continue to make videos! Btw: Did you make your own ultramarine pigment? If so, I'd love to see that sometime. It's a fascinating process, in general, but I'd really love to see how you treat the experience with the camera. :-)
Thanks a lot! I have not yet made ultramarine, that was synthetic that I used. I have experimented with grinding stones that I find in the rivers around here. Interesting process but hasn't yielded anything all that exciting.
Well, if nothing else, it's good practice for when you do find something exciting! :-D I look forward to seeing what else you bring to your channel. :-)
if you use a enamel white bottom baking pan you can spread the oil out and leave it outside you'll achieve faster bleaching. Stir oil daily if possible. You'll want to filter it with cotton because bugs lol
Brilliant Video! This is right up there with growing your own Shiitake Mushrooms to save money. The Tad Spurgeon book looks like a lot of thought and years have gone into it.
This is incredible, best video i've watched! what a process
i had a recipe given me from a dutch sailor : put a liter of raw linseedoil in a pan of gently boiling water for an hour or so.Then the usual leave to settle and separate.
this produced lots of white stuff in the water.
They used this oil on the ship to prevent rust.
Jacob
sounds interesting. I've heard that boiling leaves oil yellows faster and isn't as structurally sound for painting with oil. Much more efficient to boil to use on ships.
This is a great video. Thanks for sharing. The sounds of nature were a bonus and creative use of titles refreshing.
Thank you!
Wow such dedication ....
Beautiful and interesting video. I had to watch it twice. I love typewritten subtitles. Back to nature. Super interesting process. Am considering painting my old house with Allback Linseed oil products. Do you have any knowledge good or bad about their products?
Thank you. I don't have any knowledge about Allback linseed oil products, mostly I have experience with oil painting picture making. Good luck with the project.
Fascinating! Thank you!
Sooo soothing i enjoy it 😊❤️❤️❤️ amazing how patience you are
Thank you so much
Thank you for the education!
Could you explain each element like the sand the salt the water and the marble dust does to the process cleaning the oil? 🙏Thank you! That will be really helpful!
This method removes the mucilage from the oil, without chemicals or heat. Leaving an oil that is appropriate for painting, it won't rot or yellow, and it will somewhat speed drying time. The coarse structure of the sand breaks apart the mucilage of the oil, the marble dust clings to this part to make it easier to separate.
what a master work: Great video thanks.
Wow. The presentation of your content is superb! 🖤
Thank you so much
I loved everything . God Bless you
Best regards
Iraq - Baghdad
Very good. Would have loved to see more.
Linseed oil is the final ingredient that made the printing press viable; the water based inks that came before wouldn't attach to the moveable type
@@d36williams didn't realize that. Cool!
love the style and content
Waaaaooo... Amazing!! Long process...
As a painter this is really cool
Awesome! Thanks
Nice!!! TY!
Thank you very much! Invaluable info
Nice video! I enjoyed this greatly!
Beautiful work. Thank you.
Thank you so much!
Thank you for this video was interesting..
Hello Joe... may I please ask you about the amount of oil you start initially with in the refinement part (When you mix it with 3 cups of water, sand, etc...)? Also...have you tried with just water? I got Tad’s book way back before it was published and I love it... but I think there are easier ways (perhaps a little longer though) to clear the mucilage out of the oil. My hat to your process... the extraction of oil from the seeds is quite time consuming...I also tried it once with the Piteba and it just drove me nuts.
It's a tricky machine to work with flax. It's also a workout. I start with around a quart of oil. The process is also evolving in little ways, maybe some day I'll make another part of this video
How less expensive is this compared to 5 gallon? I am looking at 100. To do my fence.
Fantastic superb craft 👌
Thank you so much. I have found it is not cheaper than buying commercial. Also, the quantity would be very labor intensive, with all the oil I've made over the last 8 years, it probably only makes 1 gallon. I do a little woodworking, but I intend this oil for fine art painting.
@@joebesch few years back I struggled so I had to live like I was it the mid 1800s. Hunting small game making my own bow. Filtering rainwater, making turpentine glue candles birch suryup. I would like to add this skill to my resume. Modern ppl get excited when I perform old skill sets as these. I tell them if u want it learn. Thank.u for keeping up informed & keeping these old ways going
beautiful!!!!
just put oil in a jar, leave in sun with screed covering for a few days when dry weather.......then let dry indoors for a month.....it should dry when painted on wood and not tack.
Nice, but how can you refine an oil for 1 month which is not good anymore after 2 weeks? Linoids loss starting after 2 weeks already.
Hi Joe, thank you for this video. I am a bit confused as to the process from 4:32. To clarify, do you rack off the oil into another jar and mix it with water, shake, settle - then rack it off again into another jar and repeat this process several times?
Sean Sloan yes, I'm racking off the oil from the musilage, cleaning the big gallon jar, adding fresh water and oil back to the big jar and shaking again.
joe besch 100%, I thought so but I just wanted to be sure. This is an amazing video. It has made a significant impact to me. Many thanks!
thank you Frank for helping me with the puzzle.
jacob
ps can you recommend a book
I can't recommend Tad Spurgeon's book Living craft enough. www.tadspurgeon.com/the_book.php?page=the+book
he has lots of great resources on his website too.
Very nice, thank you! I just pressed my first batch of flaxseed last night. Looks like I need more oil before I start refining. Should I store in the fridge until ready to refine? Do you use a similar process for refining walnut oil?
Yes, keep in fridge. The cold will also help congeal the mucilage. Pretty much same process for walnut oil.
i will get it , have read bit if it.
what do people think of stephen shepherds book paint shellac and linseedoil
not familiar with that one, but I'll check it out.
But your raw linseed oil is not deacidified right? In this way, the C18H34O2 in the oil will still cause excessive yellowing of the oil. The result of sun exposure is that the oil will not turn yellow temporarily. I don't know if my understanding is wrong, thank you to
I know this is the method of the old masters, I admire you
I'm surprised they don't make a treadle version of those screw presses, seems like it'd be faster and easier than the big hand crank. Not enough torque, maybe?
Yeah, you need quit a bit of torque for the flax seeds especially.
Have you done any yellowing tests ? I'd love to see that. Any particular reason you chose that kind of Flax seed?
Tad also updated his process with silica instead of sand, supposedly speeds up the process. Have you tried that yet?
Haven't tried silica yet, also haven't done specific yellowing tests, only anecdotal visual clues. However the I use brown flax seed over golden, after many texts where golden flaxseed would not stay bounded to the pigment after it was tubbed. Correspondence with other manufacturers confirmed that most of the industry also uses brown fox seed
joe besch very interesting info regarding the oil separation. another thing that came up and I forgot to ask. why add water before pressing?
the seeds are very dense and tough. a little water helps to soften them up.
great video, thank you for posting.
Do you think the bleached linseed oil dries faster than the non-bleached?
thank you once more, great content.
Thanks. It's supposed to be a little faster, but I haven't noticed anything too dramatic.
Very good and interesting video
Joe Bro make more videos
great video
This whole time I thought this video was for edible oil… I was so confused because a doctor said flax oil oxidises quickly so should be kept away from sunlight…. Due to supermarkets full of lying companies that sell fake oils, i was planning to make my own… I wonder if this process stands same for edible or cosmetic flax oil..
You could use the piteba machine to make flax oil and keep it refrigerated . But don't use the refining process, that's to keep it from rotting the painting or woodworking project.
Joe, I forgot to say. My new method, while being completed within 24 hours, does not require your laborious shaking, numerous washings, and loss of oil. My new method loses no oil, while it removes the mucilage which makes up only 5% of the oil. There is no labor involved. Quick, easy, effective, all in under 24 hours. Thank you, Louis
yes a guy who boils oil professionaly in Holland told me that messes up the molecular structure.
His website is also in english i think: deCokerije it is called.
cool, ill check that out.
typed in google kettle boiled linseedoil,what came up was popular science magazine with recipes for kettle boiled oil which was apparently very common up to the 1960.
vol 178 no3 march 1961 page 196 article by r.c.stanley.
Cannot wait to try it.
Jacob
A merchant navy guy told me that they boiled the linseed oil in water for 4 hours. That cleaned it but probably also oxidised it.
Joe, I came across your great video when looking for an answer after following Tad Spurgeons instructions. I’m in the final cleaning phase using plain water and it’s taking forever in this winter sun to clear. Is it ok to keep washing it while it’s still cloudy before the final storing and clearing? Again great video and thanks for answering the community! (This is a test batch to see if I like the process and results)
Yes. You can wash it as many times as you want. I will take longer to clear that way, but you'll remove more sludge.
Sorry for the delay, it won't clear until you've stopped with the washing phaze. It's hard to know exactly when you're done. I reduce the oil by about half before I stop.
so relaxing x
Thank you so much
Awesome, im exited to make my own oil now, although I can get raw oil very cheaply here (0.60cents/1oz) should I just do the bleaching part?
If it's raw oil it should be refined before bleaching. Refining removes the yellowing fats which makes it good for painting, but not as good for nutrition.
Joe, where did you get the seed grinder from ? I'd like to know
Piteba machine. Available on amazon.
joe besch Joe, thanks ever so much for responding. I didn't think you would bother.
What an amazing video! Just a quick question... I'm Italian and I do not understand at 3:12 what do you mean by 1 ot water... How much is it? What unit is it? Sorry for the stupid question... 😐
Thanks.
Looks like the ink in my typewriter needs replacing. In should say qt, as in a quart, just a little more than a liter.
@@joebesch ahahahahahah now everything is clear! Many thanks!
I just have one more question : I'm a luthier and I am going to use it to varnish my violins with amber based varnish. Never heard of using sand in oil based varnishes (what's the reason actually?). Nevertheless I would use masicot in place of marble... Any tip or experience about that? Thanks again and keep up the great work
@@SirenaPartenopea the sand and marble dust give the mixture some grit to help break apart the fats in the oil. They don't remain in the final oil. I don't have experience with violins or much with using oil in woodworking, but you would want to wait until the oil is finished clearing before adding any pigment. thanks
Joe, please contact me via email. I would like to compare “ the degree” of what you call “ crystal clear” oil by placing your oil sample alongside mine in the refrigerator. To your readers: ALL OILS - those full of mucilage and those cleansed of all mucilage- will appear crystal clear at room temperature. BUT ONCE BOTH OILS are placed in a refrigerator at 40 F, the cleansed oil remains crystal clear, while the oil with mucilage becomes CLOUDY and NON TRANSPARENT.
thanks
Louis
I did the same process and the same story - no mucilage
Can someone name this beautiful oil pressing machine?
www.piteba.com/en/
Thank you Joe,PLEASE look on google books ,popular science magazine and type in search bar :kettle boiled linseedoil.You will see an article march 1961 with foto,s.
Jacob
interesting. I love those old magazine illustrations too.
Very good video
Hi, is this the same kind of oil I can use on wood furniture?
Yes! I am only a casual woodworker and not sure what differences between this and other woodworking oils.
Can you use the cold press linseed as is before refining it? Or do you still need to refine the cold press linseed in order for it to be usable? I use art store bought cold press linseed oil so I was wondering.
Linseed oil bought from the store has been refined and ready to use. I've heard of people further refining art store linseed oil, but not a necessity.
have you seen Frank.s Pallister boiling oil to scorch a feather.
Are all these different processes yours, heating the oil to 230 degrees c , passing oxygen through the oil, trying to achieve the same objective to remove the sludge, break, protein?
regards Jacob
They both should be removing the same fatty acids, however my understanding of boiling oil is that it leaves the structure unsound for making oil paint. However it has been used frequently in oil painting.
oil has to be boiled correctly and done right has been a billion dollar industry !
Would something like a pressure filter from home wine making work for getting out much of the fine sediment? Might get away with less shaking to floculate out the sediment. Also might lose less oil through the process. Or is the sediment too fine for even a pressure filter?
Interesting. I'm a home wine maker, but don't know about these filters. I'll check it out.
@@joebesch
it was something my father in law used to use. I'm not sure if it was something he bought back in the day, or made it himself.
Do you think winsor newton use this process?
What is difference between linseed oil for wood, artist refined linseed oil, flax oil, linseed you can drink....from health store?
So if one has that special machine you referred me to then it skips all these steps?
Why does oil paint mix by hand using linseed oil stay wet for 2 months or so?
Is there a sedative the artist paint producers add to bring down drying time?
Linseed oil is pretty much flaxseed oil, with the healthy stuff removed so that it won't rot. The process in this video can be used by buying flaxseed oil and refining it. Can't speak to what companies do to refine their oil, I believe chemicals are used.
Linseed oil refined by hand tends to dry a bit quicker than manufactured oil. Each pigment has a different drying speed, some modern metal colors can take a few weeks, some Earth colors will dry overnight.
How long can this oil be stored
Should be fine for a long time. I've stored full jars for up to 6 years. Once the opened, they dry out quicker.
Thanks you,
brilliant but time consuming, well done
UAU!!!!
Beautiful! Are you an artist or a chemist? With all the work involved in your videos seems like there is not much time to paint
Vitaly Borisenko ha. Definitely not as much time these days.
What is that grinder thing called in the beginning of the video?
piteba.com/en/shop-oil-press-nutcracker-sets-spare-parts-home-oil-production-fruit-press/1-piteba-oil-expeller-7435114797721.html
Piteba machine.
And how much of linseeds required to make 1 kg of oil
Results vary. 12 pounds of seeds usually gets me about a liter of unrefined oil. After refinement, it's a little more than half of that.
what kind of sand, some say you can use rottenstone .
thank you Jacob
Thanks, I think I missed that part in the description. I use stuff for aquariums because I figure it must be pretty clean, but I also rinse it off a few times just to be sure. I've heard Fullers earth also works, but haven't yet tried it.
Does this linseed oil that you manufacture have a quick drying point without the need to use toxic chemicals such as lead and manganese?
Apparently, this method makes a quicker drying oil. But, the pigments I use are usually dry the next day anyway, so I haven't noticed this to be particularly quick drying.
@@joebesch
master again with my questions haha, you refer to natural marble dust of some special kind or what is called marble dust for construction finishes that contains plastic resin
Marble dust used in painting is ground white marble. It's often used as a paint extender as well, even though it's white, it isn't a pigment and won't affect the color. It's used in this recipe to give the mucilage a little more substance, to make it easier to separate.
It's available from pigment suppliers like natural pigments. Or you could use some scrap from the marble sculptures your working on.
@@joebesch teacher again with my impertinences, excuse me, I am passionate about pictorial art; How do you keep flaxseed oil from going rancid to keep it bottled?
At which stage this oil can be used for making oil paints
Can be used right away after refinement.
Is it possible to boil the oil after separation?
Shouldn't be any issues.
@@joebesch thanks
does " 1 T marble dust" means 1 tablespoon?
Correct. T is tablespoon. t is teaspoon.
@@joebesch thanks. Have you ever tried to boil linseed oil with lime?
@@alexandrdementiev8750I'm not familiar with that one.
Hey Joe,
What kind of sand do you use? Do you wash it for yourself? If so, how?
Thanks,
Tomi
Tamás Csomor I use aquarium sand, seems to be the cleanest. But I also rinse a few times with water to be sure.
Oh yeah and one mor question... what does that "repeat x3" mean? after shaking for 5 minutes and letting it settle for the first time you shake it again and let it settle for 3 times OR you rack the oil off and add some fresh sand, salt and water and shake 3 times?
Thanks again :)
Tamás Csomor shake and settle 3 times before racking and doing the whole thing over
Honestly
persons interested in using linseed oil might want to check out my post about 1550 method
METRIC!!!
what type of extraction that you used?
Intan Nurain I use a piteba machine to extract the oil
Can you make poppy oil, walnut oil, for artists.
I've never made poppy oil, but Walnut oil is basically the same method as this video.
@@joebesch Don't you want to make a video on making poppy oil for artists. I cant find any source on how to make it.
@@etienne7774 I've never really researched that one. The refining process is probably similar, but extracting something so small seems challenging with this machine.
ruclips.net/video/qKIijIfJMqs/видео.html
Question: does this also work as wood finish?
Don't have much experience with wood finishing, but it should work like a standard linseed oil finish, maybe dry a little faster.
joe besch thank you very much
dries way faster, and its very transparent and no amber tint like with comercial one, so for this reason might not be as desirable
And I see hundreds of acres of flax growing around me
Just tock,,,just tock,,,,just tock,,,,,,whay you don't tock
whoops ! i forgot to include the title - boil linseed oil to scorch a feather
Frank Pallister
Would you say that this method and your 1550 method are achieving the same : getting rid of sludge.
Jacob
no! the break is not sludge ! what you should do is boil this oil to scorch a feather and see if it breaks