Hi James remember that when you change the pressure of the oil you change the boiling temperature. That is why water boils at room temperature in a vacuum! So it is not only that they remove the oxygen but they use the vacuum to arrive at the right temperature faster. Thanks for the video!
Something doesn't make sense here. Several comments: Why heat over an open flame? Seems way more dangerous than an electric stove or hotplate. If the boiling point is higher than the flash point, then it will ignite before it boils. How did your friend reach that higher temperature while boiling under a vacuum? Once something is boiling (at ANY pressure) the temperature remains constant. In other words, if you pull a vacuum, it will boil at a lower temperature. It will remain at that temperature until everything is boiled off and turned to vapor. Only then can the temperature increase (in a closed system.) Also, all finishes are "food safe" once fully cured. Lacquer, varnish, polyurethane, epoxy, everything.
@@DuffyHomoHabilis I think he said the ignition temp is higher, albeit only slightly, than boiling point, hence the usage of a vacuum boiler to prevent combustion. The boiling point of linseed oil is very high indeed, around 600F and as you can see in the video, he only reaches 460F in open air without boiling and it already polymerizes enough. Presumably, a vacuum boiler would allow the linseed oil to boil at a similar temperature, again without the fear of ignition.
I have watched your videos on blo, very informative, and well done. Gardner's and farmers used to use blo for their hand tools. and One thing I have seen in any of them, unless I missed it. Is the old rule for use on such things as shovels, pitch forks of any wood handled tool. Once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year. And then just once a year. Like you, I like using blo, and have for many many years. And you are right, the feel of the wood is so much better.
i read an article years ago and made my own boiled linseed oil from raw linseed oil i found the flax seed oil works even better because its more refined all you do is put the raw linseed oil or flax seed oil in water bath and keep it that heat for about 3 hours and then put it aside and the raw linseed oil will separate the tacky musilage which used to be used as a paper glue and linseed oil then pour off the linseed oil and set it aside and you have boiled linseed oil with no additives i use it for making window putty have done for years old traditional method using hydrated lime or what they call slaked lime thats how it used to be made 100 years ago. .It drys straight away and doesnt get tacky.
Thanks for the info about the temperatures. You are totally right... I tried it in a crockpot for a few days & it just got hot! The basic recipes you have are wood-finishing gold! Thanks for working it out so I didn't have to...
They ARE gold! I made a batch of the hard stuff with the raw linseed oil (FLAX OIL) and it came out excellent. Happened to find some of those silicon slider trays to make some smallish pucks with..worked like a charm! I put a little citris scent into it before it cooled fully so my pucks smell like honey and citris! Almost edible 😅
Love it! I once bought a bunch of flax seeds with the idea of growing my own fibers for making flax bow strings, and seeds for the oil. Unfortunately, my apartment balcony at the time was not up to the task of growing them! lol i had all the plans and i couldn't grow the flower. I've been using Tried and True brand linseed oil for the reason you mention (no chemicals added). It's good stuff, but i'd much rather make my own, thanks for the video!
Oooh tried and true makes it with no chemicals?? This is very useful information! I'm personally a bit nervous to try and make it so this is great. Thank you!!!
First small batch in the garden on a hot plate was a leaning experience on boiling over and flash point. The hotplate was only damaged cosmetically and I am de-carboning the pan. Looked at the finer and found around 455F or 235C get ready to remove the oil, it will boil over if you are not there for removal from the heat and it will flash on the hotplate. Have a cover for the pan ready also probably is a must, that should put it out if it didn't boil over.
With mixtures of some all organic ingredients using recipes from the 14th through 16th C. our small farm based businesses make furniture finishes that rival modern polymers. We also make soap and wax based finishes for everything from wood furniture, French polish highlighter, wood trim, casements and wood floors. All non-toxic all organic. We have a small customer base who understand that in fine finishes...you get what you pay for!
Thanks for the comments James and Bandanadrummer95. Much appreciated. Unfortunately, pressure cookers don't have temperature controls...only pressure..and of course it's dependent upon steam to build that pressure. Water and oil usually don't do well together except under a few limited circumstances. Thanks James for describing the difference between the two instruments. Is that what you're using when you soak wood into an epoxy type bath..like mallet heads?
That is actually a vacuum chamber not a pressure pot. However if using epoxy it is often easer to use a pressure pot to compress the bubbles rather then sucking them out of the epoxy. For the mallet heads it is a temperature set resin so the vacuum chamber will suck the air out of the heads and when you let the air back into the pot it will press the resin into the wood and fill those voids
@@WoodByWright I'm used to the current look of your shop. It seems a lot of the RUclips woodworkers moved this summer - Rex Krueger, The Wood Whisperer, Tamar - so when I saw this video I thought you had moved!
Funny you should say that. The shutters in my bedroom growing up were finished with boiled linseed oil (infact all the shutters in the house were). To this day, the smell of linseed oil makes me think of home.
I made a little amount (about 200mlg- 455 f ) as test the polymerization was wounderful . I use it with white Oak and Mahogany wood three coats for each and 15 min between every coat. It was Wooow and no need for wax or shalak or any thing . thank you again my friend
Hey thanks for this video, going to try it. Saftey question: you mentioned boiling it in a vaccum allows the oil to be heated above its flash point - what is the actual flash point of the linseed oil not in a vaccum?
Is the term boiling is a bit of a misnomer when it comes to oil. The oil itself does not actually boil so the flash point is the same temperature in a vacuum as out of a vacuum. It's an old-term used for heating liquid. Which is why boiled linsew oil is called boiled. Even though it's not actually boiled, it's just heated
Ok so I paused the video at about 1:50 so sorry if you are about to answer this question, but couldn’t you use a pressure cooker to boil the oil? I’m thinking it should stop it from catching fire?
you could but you have several problems. #1 you would have to make sure it cooled down big time before opening it. #2 you would little sperts of flames coming out the pressure relief #3 you would have to increase the heat as higher pressure has a higher boiling point. and #4 Boiling flaming pol in a pressure vessel is generally called a bomb. so it is not out of the realm of possibility, but I just do not want to be the person to try it.
I’ve only ever used raw linseed oil. I love it. Oiling walnut in my opinion is essential before any other finishing. Here it is cheapest from horsey shops. I think it is mixed into horse feeds.
Atmospheric pressure raises the boiling point...so removing atmospheric pressure (putting under vacuum) lowers the boiling point. Under vacuum, less heat is needed to achieve the boiling point. Like your videos...Keep up the good work!
true, but in this case, the problem is not the boiling point but the flash point. the boiling point is MUCH MUCH higher. did I misspeak in the video? sorry, I must not have caught that.
They are very different things. Is the vacuum will remove the air from around the oil so there's no oxygen to combust the oil. That way you can raise the heat over the flashpoint. A pressure cooker has more oxygen and is basically just a bomb.
Question on finishing bench tenon shoulders that have slight gap. Should you finish them or just seal with hide glue will be enough protection from potential warping and so on ? On the end grain shoulders of the four width ways tenons should I finish it with 3 layers of BLO? or is it enough to just use hide glue coating when I glue and clamp the shoulders tight to the legs? the gap is slight also here and not completely flush to the body. Please advise many thanks
@@WoodByWright Sorry my grammar was poor... I just mean to ask should you finish and seal the whole of the tenon particularly the end grain of the shoulders before gluing into the mortises? Thanks
something i discovered on vacation in the USA i tried to boil oil to make violin varnish for my buddy but it did not break i conclude that the oil (from amazon ) was not raw it has been refined making it useless for my purpose
Hi, so I brought a pot of pure flax oil up to 575 degrees F and never saw bubbles form or any physical change in the oil (whisps or fuzziness). It was over 400 for at least 30 minutes as well. I used two thermometers, does there need to be a noticeable change in the oil or should it be good to use at this point?
Less Talk, More Delicious there’s a liquid called Japan drier that helps oil based paint and shellac dry faster. It is also used to raise the grain in between sanding of rifle stocks. I wonder if plain old rubbing alcohol is a addictive too.
With vacum it's more about lowering the boiling point of liquids (and keeping the ignition point the same) than with removing oxygen. But probably both things matter ;)
No. The oil doesn't actually boil. That's a misconception because they named it boiled Lindsay oil. It's more about taking the oxygen out of the environment so that it won't catch fire. You still have to bring it up to the same temperature.
Not exactly. To say that the oil boils is actually wrong. The oil doesn't boil It just heats up to the temperature at which it polymerizes. Putting it in a vacuum just means that there's no oxygen for it to suddenly catch on fire.
Have you looked at the Tried & True finished oils? I've been using them and enjoy them greatly. They varnish provides a very nice layer, but I grant it takes a long time to build. The original finish with the beeswax gives a very soft to the touch finish.
Lol that's why I covered them with tool racks. This video was shot in the middle of rearranging the shop. Unfortunately got it into the boards on a stud.
what do you recomend to mix with bees wax to protect leather...you mention that it needs to DRY ...what does that refer to? please excuse my ignorance.
Actually this video was quite convenient since I seen you use the boiled linseed oil on the last video of the walnut burl. I quickly started to search the internet.
Different whales have different polymerization temperatures but yes you can boil and double boil other whales as well. Most of them do not polymerize quite as thoroughly as linseed oil. But they do all have the road and pros and cons.
@@WoodByWright im going to try this summer. Gmo cooking oils are cheap and plentiful. Since i learned how they use chemicals to extract it from the source ive since switched to evoo, and the gmo oil i use in my 2 stroke engines.
Great video. Have you ever tried using citrus solvent with pure BLO? It's often used to thin tung oil, but I wondered if it would improve penetration and decrease drying times with BLO without all the chemical solvents you find in the store-bought stuff?
thanks. I have not used that combo. it should improve the penetration, but it would take it longer to cure as BLO does not dries it reacts with oxygen and polymerizes. the solvent would keep oxygen from it tell the solvent evaporates.
When you say "vacuum pot" do you mean pressure cooker? If so, I'd like more information on that method if possible. I'm a bit hesitant to bring oil temperatures up that high in the open. If a pressure cooker is a safer m method, I'd like to know more.
No not a pressure cooker. A vacuum pot. It's actually a vacuum that has a heating element inside. That way there's no oxygen to allow the oil to catch on fire. If you do it in a pressure pot that's called a bomb.
From my understanding, you could do it in a pressure cooker, though want to make sure that the pressure cooker can more than withstand the pressures and temperatures you might get so that you don't get any rapid unplanned disassembly above the autoignition temperature. One thing to keep in mind, though, is that if you're doing it in a sealed container, it is possible to use up enough of the oxygen in the little air that you end up leaving that it will stop smoking and the vapors will reach a level where it condenses back into a liquid at the same rate that the liquid evaporates. This means that you can go at a more conservative temperature for a longer period of time (if you have good heat control) instead of trying to get it hotter and happen quicker. The chemistry involved isn't an instant process and does very slowly occur at room temperature (though obviously not at an appreciable rate) and increases speed with temperature. You could probably get significantly better results than he got here in creating a stand oil (which is what this is; it's separate from BLO, but it has a similar drying time) just by using a slightly lower temperature over a much longer period (I feel 425ºF would work to get that if you hold it there for an hour or two). Note, though, that after a bit, stand oil will not have any significant drying time differences but it will have differences in other properties, such as viscosity, how much the finished product yellows over time, elasticity of the finish, etc. If you mix raw linseed oil and stand oil, though (or stand oil and an appropriate solvent), you can sort of tune the properties and mostly retain the drying time of the stand oil, especially if it's a more highly converted stand oil (which takes days to do with linseed oil even at 570ºF).
I'll try this. In a very small pot, with a very small quantity of oil , and with cover ready and a wet cotton towel , just in case. About vacuum boiled oil and it's higher polymerization: can non vacuum oil be boiled several times to reach the same level , or is it really temperature bound ?
Sounds like fun. From what I understand it's completely driven by the temperature you get it to I've never heard of anyone doing it through multiple steps.
@Wood By Wright ok. I've tried it 3 hours ago (your recipe, not the several consecutive boiled). Got the oil to 260°c (I've made a confusion in between 460f and 230c ) but nothing happened really, some smoke, no boiling, no "cotton like formations" .. and fortunately, no fire lol . I stumbled on a very nice video of a sir Frank Pallister who's apparently musical instrument maker and he says in the comment that some oils may have been refined by the manufactured and therefore will not process as expected. I don't know if it impacts the final result or not . Video in question is "boiling linseed oil to scorch a feather"
I have an old paint brush that I've used several times to put on boiled linseed oil, but now it's all gummed up to the point where I can't use it anymore. Is there an easy way to clean this brush? It doesn't sound like I will be able to "boil" the gummy linseed oil off. Maybe use a chemical paint stripper? Thanks.
I believe in one of your older videos, you talk about using BLO with a wax mixed in with it. When would you add the wax to the oil so that it combine with it? What kind of wax would you use that wouldn't separate from the oil? Thanks
yup I did a whole video on that. the wax oil mix makes paste wax. and you can put in what ever wax and oil mix you want. I normally use bees wax. and you only have to heat it up to around 200F for that. no reason to even get to the smoke point.
Mr. Wright, First thank you for the videos. They are great. After watching a few, I bought some BLO to try and will be hunting down a good source for the non-toxic variety. I am always looking for safer options with regards to fumes and skin contact. My hobbies shouldn't be slowly killing me. Do you have any recommendations for a durable finish along these same lines? I would like to not wear a respirator and gloves if I don't have to.
most any film finish is going to have a polymer that will cure and then require gloves. but a traditional shellac is about as pure as it comes. I would recommend wearing gloves as you do not want to be picking it off your hands for the next few days but if you do get some on you it is not a health risk.
I wish I could give you exact temperatures but it depends on the oil you're working with. As there are a lot of other compounds in there the temperature can change depending upon how pure your oil is.
Have you thought about removing the protein from the flax oil before you boil it? Biggest advantage being you have an oil that does not attract bugs/mildew or can go rancid over time as the food value has accentually been removed, leaving only what is good for wood surfaces. Thanks for the video!
I have done that, but I am not a fan of the color, and that is the big reason I use it. plus I use it fast enough there is no fear of it going rancid before use.
Hmm that is interesting as I assume the DIY BLO with protein is darker correct? We have always worked towards the lightest color possible so it highlights the natural color of the wood so that is a new perspective! You definitely need a purified linseed oil oil to make exterior paint and stain but interior projects probably doesn't matter.
The fat and protein are what bring out the striking color difference and chatoyancy in figured wood. that is the big reason they do not bleach most commercial versions. but when you want to color something with a pigment then you do not want the color of the oil to mix with the pigment. that is why it is normally bleached before making paint or stains. this is, in fact, the historical method for artistic oil paints. but for just that natural wood look with just a hint of color to bring out and punctuate the wood figure, not much works as well as pure linseed oil.
Thats interesting as there is a still a lovely color to the purified linseed oil as it is not bleached but I'm now curious. Will have to find time for an experiment of my own with conventional boiled linseed oil and purified! Thanks again!
I read somewhere that old fashioned (pre 1880's) methods for boiled linseed oil required 600 degrees Celsius in a vacuum container. I need some of that type for a hobby of mine. Will your friend sell any of his next time he makes more?
they did not require the vacuum boiling that just made it safer. you end up with basically the same product whether vacuum boiled or open boiled vacuum boiled is just safer. my friend does not sell it he just makes it for his own use.
Thanks for the feedback. I noticed you heated yours up to reach a certain temperature. According to the formula I'm looking for, the oil needs to be kept at 600 C for 8 hours. How long did you it take for your concoction to reach 460 F? What I'm looking for is a naturally polymerized linseed oil....
How starts it burning? Violently or just lower flames that appear from the start? If it is the second, easy to stop it burning if you put a metal lid on it.
I would use a homemade boiled linseed oil. If you can't get that then raw Lindsay oil will work fine it just takes a week or more for it to fully cure. I would not use a Shellac as that can dissolve in alcohol.
@@WoodByWright What about lindseed oil and raw coconut oil do you think it will do the same just a added fragrance to round it off?? Thank you for your time answering...🍻
I just stumbled onto this video, sorry for the necro comment, but I found this really very interesting. Do you happen to know if this same process could be used for tung oil? I happen to have a rather large stash of raw tung oil
yes it can. I do not know what it's ignition temperature is though. it can be done in the same manner though. I would have to do more research and testing to find the ignition temperature though. and I would stay 20 degrees or more below that.
If you make it yourself or have someone else who traditionally boils it then yes as it's just linseed oil. however if you buy it from the store then no because it comes with other chemical dryers in it.
that is what helps the bleached oil cure faster. if you wanted to you could then boil the bleached oil. but once it has been boiled the fat does not come out as easily.
thanks for the video. QUESTION: When boiling under a vacuum, the boiling point is lowered depending on how much vacuum has been applied. What is the important aspect of the project? Reaching a certain temperature ? Or the actual boiling of the oil?
You don't actually boil the oil. It's just the term used for the process. The boiling point of the oil is way over the flashpoint. You heat it to the exact same temperatures as you would outside You just heat it a little bit farther. Because there's no oxygen in the environment then it can't combust. You just have to make sure you let it cool down before you break the vacuum. But you still have to heat it to the same temperature.
the air is removed and the gas that comes off the oil is also removed as it is heated. you do not want oil above flash point under pressure. that is called a bomb. LOL
Yes. I have a video showing it catch on fire. To be honest it takes every specific circumstances. So as long as you follow a few steps it's very safe to use.
Great video! Thank you. Quick question. What is the shelf life on this oil processed this way vs vacuum polymerized if I were to make some for my wooden cutting board and spoons. A company that makes this stuff (TT), says they don’t have a shelf life. I’m guessing they vacuum boil. Also, what “liability”? Is there that your friend won’t sell it?
I have no idea what the actual shelf life is as most of the time I use up all of my oil in under a year but I would guess you're probably good to have it for a year or two without any problem.
Alum is supposed to be a very good chemical drier for linseed oil [1] and is used in deodorant so should be safe for skin contact even after heating. But it's not used as much industrially since it doesn't work with all varnish resins. I might try using it someday. [1]: Zumbühl, Stefan & Zindel, Christophe. (2022). Historical siccatives for...
Alum as the name suggest is an Aluminium compound and its use in deodorants stirred up quite the controversy because it was deemed carcinogenic and thought to cause some mood disorders. That has largely been debunked now, so skin contact should be save indeed. I would still be a bit careful re food safety.
Hi James, I've follow your method to make BLO, but when I boiled it to around 440 F it smokes a lot then I stopped, is it ok for polymerization? Recently I use the BLO to do the finishing of my DIY guitar it looks beautiful. I put 9 coats and wet sand to 2000, I want to ask how long dose it take to dry fully? Thanks.
I would have to watch it to see if it went foggy. But sounds like you are good. I never let BLO cure before I apply pastewax. It also depends on how thick you apply it. Most of the time it is dry to the touch in 24 hours.
I've been putting multiple coats of boiled linseed oil on a table-top workbench. Doing the top side now. However, the bottom is a sheet of 1/4" over 3/4" rough plywood. That side just kept sucking up oil like I was pouring on a sponge.
yup. some woods and expectedly end grain will do that. the oil can penetrate deeply. if you put the first coat on and wait 2 days then put the second coat on it will not soak up as much as the first coat has hardened and blocked the poors.
It does. But that is somewhat of a misnomer as you are not actually boiling the oil you were just getting it to a temperature where a few chemical reactions happen.
James, thank you so much for such plain-to-read tutorial. However, I have hit a block and wonder if you or any other commentators can help: I have brought pure flax oil to the boiling point as per described, but now it would not cure at all (four days passed and the surface is still wet). The wood was not clean - the reason why I attempted to make BLO was that I ran out of commercial (i.e. with additives) oil just a fraction before the entire project with shelving was to be completed. So the homemade oil was applied to a layer of cured commercial linseed oil. This probably explains why it wouldn't penetrate the surface, however the rag I spread it with is also not dry, i.e. homemaid BLO is not curing there either. Naturally, I am looking for advice on how to remedy this - simply wipe everything off and do not attempt anything? Would boiling the oil further give it more polymerisation? Will it help if I mimic the composition of commercial BLO by adding something to my homemade stuff? Thank you.
It sounds like it didn't get quite hot enough. There's a point at which you start to see this stringiness inside. It almost looks like spaghetti in the oil. The oil doesn't actually boil. It just reaches the right temperature. But to fix the surface you can just wipe off what is still on there. Any little bit will eventually cure. It's basically still raw linseed oil. Which can often take a month or more to fully cure.
Thank you for taking the time and all the effort to make this video. I have been looking for boiled linseed oil and unfortunately I can’t find it where I live. I will be trying this today (definitely safely in an open outdoor area). I wanted to ask if this boiled linseed oil can be used to make danish oil which as I understand is a blend of boiled linseed oil, polyurethane and mineral spirits? Thanks once again and cheers. New subscriber and fan! Edit: how long do you think the danish oil made with this boiled linseed oil will take to dry?
hi there :) but is it food-safe (as a cuttinboard finish)!? I might have missed the information - and on the www I did not find any answer, that would seem reliable.. And of course, I'm not talking about industrial BLO, I'm talking about "home made" BLO out of natural, food grade linseedoil.. I'm kinda confused. and BTW - nice video of course :)
It's a bit of a misnomer. Oil doesn't actually boil and evaporate like water. It will keep heating up until it just catches fire. It has more to do with the historical naming of the method.
Might be a silly question, but do you need to worry about spontaneous combustion of rags with the homemade blo, or is that only with the store-bought with the added chemicals? I have some store bought and I'm almost frightened to use it for fear of rags catching fire!
yes the same here though it is a little harder to get them to combustion it can happen in the right circumstances. I have a video showing it if you want to see. ruclips.net/video/MDPLFoWNlV8/видео.html
Hi James remember that when you change the pressure of the oil you change the boiling temperature. That is why water boils at room temperature in a vacuum! So it is not only that they remove the oxygen but they use the vacuum to arrive at the right temperature faster. Thanks for the video!
True. but the temperature you have to reach is still the same the boiling point of BLO is much higher then it's flash point.
Something doesn't make sense here.
Several comments:
Why heat over an open flame? Seems way more dangerous than an electric stove or hotplate.
If the boiling point is higher than the flash point, then it will ignite before it boils.
How did your friend reach that higher temperature while boiling under a vacuum? Once something is boiling (at ANY pressure) the temperature remains constant.
In other words, if you pull a vacuum, it will boil at a lower temperature. It will remain at that temperature until everything is boiled off and turned to vapor. Only then can the temperature increase (in a closed system.)
Also, all finishes are "food safe" once fully cured. Lacquer, varnish, polyurethane, epoxy, everything.
@@DuffyHomoHabilis I think he said the ignition temp is higher, albeit only slightly, than boiling point, hence the usage of a vacuum boiler to prevent combustion.
The boiling point of linseed oil is very high indeed, around 600F and as you can see in the video, he only reaches 460F in open air without boiling and it already polymerizes enough. Presumably, a vacuum boiler would allow the linseed oil to boil at a similar temperature, again without the fear of ignition.
I have watched your videos on blo, very informative, and well done. Gardner's and farmers used to use blo for their hand tools. and One thing I have seen in any of them, unless I missed it. Is the old rule for use on such things as shovels, pitch forks of any wood handled tool. Once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year. And then just once a year. Like you, I like using blo, and have for many many years. And you are right, the feel of the wood is so much better.
i read an article years ago and made my own boiled linseed oil from raw linseed oil i found the flax seed oil works even better because its more refined all you do is put the raw linseed oil or flax seed oil in water bath and keep it that heat for about 3 hours and then put it aside and the raw linseed oil will separate the tacky musilage which used to be used as a paper glue and linseed oil then pour off the linseed oil and set it aside and you have boiled linseed oil with no additives i use it for making window putty have done for years old traditional method using hydrated lime or what they call slaked lime thats how it used to be made 100 years ago. .It drys straight away and doesnt get tacky.
Please brief more much
What temperature do you use for the water bath?
Thanks for the info about the temperatures. You are totally right... I tried it in a crockpot for a few days & it just got hot!
The basic recipes you have are wood-finishing gold! Thanks for working it out so I didn't have to...
Glad I could help!
They ARE gold! I made a batch of the hard stuff with the raw linseed oil (FLAX OIL) and it came out excellent. Happened to find some of those silicon slider trays to make some smallish pucks with..worked like a charm! I put a little citris scent into it before it cooled fully so my pucks smell like honey and citris! Almost edible 😅
Love it! I once bought a bunch of flax seeds with the idea of growing my own fibers for making flax bow strings, and seeds for the oil. Unfortunately, my apartment balcony at the time was not up to the task of growing them! lol i had all the plans and i couldn't grow the flower. I've been using Tried and True brand linseed oil for the reason you mention (no chemicals added). It's good stuff, but i'd much rather make my own, thanks for the video!
I am hoping soon to get a press and make my own but have not yet. Thanks Paul
Oooh tried and true makes it with no chemicals?? This is very useful information! I'm personally a bit nervous to try and make it so this is great. Thank you!!!
big thanks for the vid - you may well have saved me from spontaneous combustion ! ! ! God Bless
here is a video of it catching on fire if toy want to see more about it. ruclips.net/video/MDPLFoWNlV8/видео.html
... add chopped garlic and shallots, lightly brown, add crumbled bacon and serve over Penne ... serves 6.
:-P
LOL thnaks!
delish!😝😂
Hi, great video! Do you have anymore information on the vacuum boiler your friend uses?
Looks like fun! When I actually have a yard I'll have to give this a shot
LOL ya not the type of thing you want to do inside!
nice tutorial
Great vid. I'd like to see your friend's process using the vacuum boiler as well.
I keep asking him but he does not want the liability. that is why he does not sell it.
Very interesting. I won't be doing that any time soon :D
LOL come on. burn down the new house!
Awesome! Good idea heating this outside, that makes a lot of sense. I think I'm going to give this a go one of these days.
sweet! dont burn your house down. LOL
I took it up to 450 degrees and it burst into flames way before then ... then I realized you meant Fahrenheit no Celsius (only joking).
LOL nice!
First small batch in the garden on a hot plate was a leaning experience on boiling over and flash point. The hotplate was only damaged cosmetically and I am de-carboning the pan. Looked at the finer and found around 455F or 235C get ready to remove the oil, it will boil over if you are not there for removal from the heat and it will flash on the hotplate. Have a cover for the pan ready also probably is a must, that should put it out if it didn't boil over.
Thank you very much!
With mixtures of some all organic ingredients using recipes from the 14th through 16th C. our small farm based businesses make furniture finishes that rival modern polymers. We also make soap and wax based finishes for everything from wood furniture, French polish highlighter, wood trim, casements and wood floors. All non-toxic all organic. We have a small customer base who understand that in fine finishes...you get what you pay for!
Thanks for the comments James and Bandanadrummer95. Much appreciated. Unfortunately, pressure cookers don't have temperature controls...only pressure..and of course it's dependent upon steam to build that pressure. Water and oil usually don't do well together except under a few limited circumstances. Thanks James for describing the difference between the two instruments. Is that what you're using when you soak wood into an epoxy type bath..like mallet heads?
That is actually a vacuum chamber not a pressure pot. However if using epoxy it is often easer to use a pressure pot to compress the bubbles rather then sucking them out of the epoxy. For the mallet heads it is a temperature set resin so the vacuum chamber will suck the air out of the heads and when you let the air back into the pot it will press the resin into the wood and fill those voids
Exactly the information I was looking for! Thank you!
My pleasure. Anytime
Excellent presentation!!!
thanks man! I do love my BLO!
I love that wall. You should make a video about that wall. So colorful.
Thanks. I have a whole series of videos in putting together the two walls each tool holder has its own video.
@@WoodByWright I'm used to the current look of your shop. It seems a lot of the RUclips woodworkers moved this summer - Rex Krueger, The Wood Whisperer, Tamar - so when I saw this video I thought you had moved!
Thank you, this changes alot for me.
glad I could help. Be carful!
Thankfully I can buy it off of Amazon, because they sell it here in Honduras. Nice, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Sweet! don't have too much fun!
Sorry, I meant to say: " They do not sell it in here". So that is why I will try to buy from Amazon. LOL
Funny you should say that. The shutters in my bedroom growing up were finished with boiled linseed oil (infact all the shutters in the house were). To this day, the smell of linseed oil makes me think of home.
I love it. I have the same thought about mothballs. reminds me of my grandparents.
Hi man, I did it .... the result was so great . thanks for every thing
Sweet. That is what I like to hear.
I made a little amount (about 200mlg- 455 f ) as test the polymerization was wounderful . I use it with white Oak and Mahogany wood three coats for each and 15 min between every coat. It was Wooow and no need for wax or shalak or any thing . thank you again my friend
I want to send a photo about this project , what's your facebook account ?
if you Look up "Wood By Wright Hive Mind" that is my face book group.
Hi thanks for your time, can I use painter's linseed oil instead of making my own?
Sure. Some times it has been bleached and that means it will not polymerase quite as quicklyl. But it will work
@@WoodByWright thanks a mil
Awesome, Great information.
I have been looking forward to watching this video. I am ordering some flaxseed oil now. Thanks for sharing this James!
LICW! thanks Dillons!
Hey thanks for this video, going to try it. Saftey question: you mentioned boiling it in a vaccum allows the oil to be heated above its flash point - what is the actual flash point of the linseed oil not in a vaccum?
Is the term boiling is a bit of a misnomer when it comes to oil. The oil itself does not actually boil so the flash point is the same temperature in a vacuum as out of a vacuum. It's an old-term used for heating liquid. Which is why boiled linsew oil is called boiled. Even though it's not actually boiled, it's just heated
Imagine if you grew your own flax seed and made your oil. Hahahahahaha That would be pretty cool. I'd like to try.
Ok so I paused the video at about 1:50 so sorry if you are about to answer this question, but couldn’t you use a pressure cooker to boil the oil? I’m thinking it should stop it from catching fire?
you could but you have several problems. #1 you would have to make sure it cooled down big time before opening it. #2 you would little sperts of flames coming out the pressure relief #3 you would have to increase the heat as higher pressure has a higher boiling point. and #4 Boiling flaming pol in a pressure vessel is generally called a bomb. so it is not out of the realm of possibility, but I just do not want to be the person to try it.
Nicely done sir, thank you for the video and i hope you have a blessed week.
i will have yo give this a try sometime
dale
I use a candy thermometer that seems to work well.
Just a note- the link for your probe thermometer in the description took me to the amazon page for your lapel microphone.
Thanks. I will have to see what is wrong.
I’ve only ever used raw linseed oil. I love it. Oiling walnut in my opinion is essential before any other finishing. Here it is cheapest from horsey shops. I think it is mixed into horse feeds.
So true. Love the color it brings out.
@@WoodByWright but it goes ranced over time
Atmospheric pressure raises the boiling point...so removing atmospheric pressure (putting under vacuum) lowers the boiling point. Under vacuum, less heat is needed to achieve the boiling point. Like your videos...Keep up the good work!
true, but in this case, the problem is not the boiling point but the flash point. the boiling point is MUCH MUCH higher. did I misspeak in the video? sorry, I must not have caught that.
Is a vacuum cooker the same as a pressure cooker or are they different things?
They are very different things. Is the vacuum will remove the air from around the oil so there's no oxygen to combust the oil. That way you can raise the heat over the flashpoint. A pressure cooker has more oxygen and is basically just a bomb.
Question on finishing bench tenon shoulders that have slight gap. Should you finish them or just seal with hide glue will be enough protection from potential warping and so on ?
On the end grain shoulders of the four width ways tenons should I finish it with 3 layers of BLO? or is it enough to just use hide glue coating when I glue and clamp the shoulders tight to the legs?
the gap is slight also here and not completely flush to the body.
Please advise many thanks
I think I am missing something sorry. Feel free to send me an email with pictures I would be glad to help. jameswright@woodbywright.com
@@WoodByWright Sorry my grammar was poor... I just mean to ask should you finish and seal the whole of the tenon particularly the end grain of the shoulders before gluing into the mortises?
Thanks
i would like to see the oil next day to see what settled out !
nothing. it stays homologous. unless you have other things in the oil to begin with from the pressing.
something i discovered on vacation in the USA i tried to boil oil to make violin varnish for my buddy but it did not break i conclude that the oil (from amazon ) was not raw it has been refined making it useless for my purpose
Can you make a video on what it's look like when over heated
If you heat it too much it will burst into flames. I do have another video showing rags catching on fire, but not in the pot.
Thanks, that's useful for me
Hi, so I brought a pot of pure flax oil up to 575 degrees F and never saw bubbles form or any physical change in the oil (whisps or fuzziness). It was over 400 for at least 30 minutes as well. I used two thermometers, does there need to be a noticeable change in the oil or should it be good to use at this point?
It is hard to see, but you should be good. Spread some on a board and see if it is dry to the touch in 20-30 hours.
Merci beaucoup!
YES! Finally someone on RUclips reads The Wheel Of Time! Love those books. Great video too.
Love that series. looking forward to it coming out on Amazon!
That wall looks so amazing! I haven't been watching in a few weeks but oh my i missed so much! the bench is amazing too! nad the vice!
Thanks man. lots more to change soon.
Like always, great information. Thumbs up James.
thanks man!
Where did your friend get their vacuum boiler?
he made it himself. it is a pot that you create a vacuum on and seal it. Then heat the pot.
What chemicals are used in store bought BLO?
Will they affect or harm plants if used on wooden planters/containers?
different companies have different things they put in to encourage polymerization. as to how they affect plants I do not know.
if it's not safe for you to eat (it isn't) it probably isn't safe for anything else
Less Talk, More Delicious there’s a liquid called Japan drier that helps oil based paint and shellac dry faster. It is also used to raise the grain in between sanding of rifle stocks. I wonder if plain old rubbing alcohol is a addictive too.
With vacum it's more about lowering the boiling point of liquids (and keeping the ignition point the same) than with removing oxygen. But probably both things matter ;)
No. The oil doesn't actually boil. That's a misconception because they named it boiled Lindsay oil. It's more about taking the oxygen out of the environment so that it won't catch fire. You still have to bring it up to the same temperature.
In a vacuum at very low pressure the boiling point / temp will be much lower?
Not exactly. To say that the oil boils is actually wrong. The oil doesn't boil It just heats up to the temperature at which it polymerizes. Putting it in a vacuum just means that there's no oxygen for it to suddenly catch on fire.
@@WoodByWright cheers thanks.
Have you looked at the Tried & True finished oils? I've been using them and enjoy them greatly. They varnish provides a very nice layer, but I grant it takes a long time to build. The original finish with the beeswax gives a very soft to the touch finish.
yup, I have used them several times.
Those stacked joints, in the wall, to your right, are making me crazy! Great video, though.
Lol that's why I covered them with tool racks. This video was shot in the middle of rearranging the shop. Unfortunately got it into the boards on a stud.
Any idea if this will work with other oils? Such as sunflower oil?
Most natural oils will polymerize however not quite as quickly as Lindsey oil.
Very interesting and informative!! 😎
what do you recomend to mix with bees wax to protect leather...you mention that it needs to DRY ...what does that refer to? please excuse my ignorance.
That is something that if you ask 10 different leather workers you'll get 10 different answers. But for me I like raw and seed oil for that.
Actually this video was quite convenient since I seen you use the boiled linseed oil on the last video of the walnut burl. I quickly started to search the internet.
thanks. glad I could help!
good man!
What about other oils like canola or sunflower?
Different whales have different polymerization temperatures but yes you can boil and double boil other whales as well. Most of them do not polymerize quite as thoroughly as linseed oil. But they do all have the road and pros and cons.
@@WoodByWright im going to try this summer. Gmo cooking oils are cheap and plentiful. Since i learned how they use chemicals to extract it from the source ive since switched to evoo, and the gmo oil i use in my 2 stroke engines.
Can acrylic gesso be applied on wood with boiled linseed oil?
Sure. Just wait tell the BLO cures.
Great video. Have you ever tried using citrus solvent with pure BLO? It's often used to thin tung oil, but I wondered if it would improve penetration and decrease drying times with BLO without all the chemical solvents you find in the store-bought stuff?
thanks. I have not used that combo. it should improve the penetration, but it would take it longer to cure as BLO does not dries it reacts with oxygen and polymerizes. the solvent would keep oxygen from it tell the solvent evaporates.
When you say "vacuum pot" do you mean pressure cooker? If so, I'd like more information on that method if possible. I'm a bit hesitant to bring oil temperatures up that high in the open. If a pressure cooker is a safer m method, I'd like to know more.
No not a pressure cooker. A vacuum pot. It's actually a vacuum that has a heating element inside. That way there's no oxygen to allow the oil to catch on fire. If you do it in a pressure pot that's called a bomb.
From my understanding, you could do it in a pressure cooker, though want to make sure that the pressure cooker can more than withstand the pressures and temperatures you might get so that you don't get any rapid unplanned disassembly above the autoignition temperature. One thing to keep in mind, though, is that if you're doing it in a sealed container, it is possible to use up enough of the oxygen in the little air that you end up leaving that it will stop smoking and the vapors will reach a level where it condenses back into a liquid at the same rate that the liquid evaporates. This means that you can go at a more conservative temperature for a longer period of time (if you have good heat control) instead of trying to get it hotter and happen quicker.
The chemistry involved isn't an instant process and does very slowly occur at room temperature (though obviously not at an appreciable rate) and increases speed with temperature. You could probably get significantly better results than he got here in creating a stand oil (which is what this is; it's separate from BLO, but it has a similar drying time) just by using a slightly lower temperature over a much longer period (I feel 425ºF would work to get that if you hold it there for an hour or two). Note, though, that after a bit, stand oil will not have any significant drying time differences but it will have differences in other properties, such as viscosity, how much the finished product yellows over time, elasticity of the finish, etc. If you mix raw linseed oil and stand oil, though (or stand oil and an appropriate solvent), you can sort of tune the properties and mostly retain the drying time of the stand oil, especially if it's a more highly converted stand oil (which takes days to do with linseed oil even at 570ºF).
That tool holder on the wall to your left, I love it. Where can I get one?
amzn.to/2hy5Cn1 here you go. I was wanting something to hold files so they do not rub on each other. and for the price this was great.
Great info, James
thanks man!
Could you use this to make oil paint?
Yes. Though it use to be more common to bleach it rather then boil it. I have a video on bleaching too if you want to see that.
For your finishing, you apply the blo, let it dry then apply the wax and buff that out?
yup. I have a whole video on how I like to do it. but that is about it in a nutshell unless the wood wants more coats of BLO
Found it thanks.
I'll try this. In a very small pot, with a very small quantity of oil , and with cover ready and a wet cotton towel , just in case.
About vacuum boiled oil and it's higher polymerization: can non vacuum oil be boiled several times to reach the same level , or is it really temperature bound ?
Sounds like fun. From what I understand it's completely driven by the temperature you get it to I've never heard of anyone doing it through multiple steps.
@Wood By Wright ok. I've tried it 3 hours ago (your recipe, not the several consecutive boiled). Got the oil to 260°c (I've made a confusion in between 460f and 230c ) but nothing happened really, some smoke, no boiling, no "cotton like formations" .. and fortunately, no fire lol . I stumbled on a very nice video of a sir Frank Pallister who's apparently musical instrument maker and he says in the comment that some oils may have been refined by the manufactured and therefore will not process as expected. I don't know if it impacts the final result or not . Video in question is "boiling linseed oil to scorch a feather"
I have an old paint brush that I've used several times to put on boiled linseed oil, but now it's all gummed up to the point where I can't use it anymore. Is there an easy way to clean this brush? It doesn't sound like I will be able to "boil" the gummy linseed oil off. Maybe use a chemical paint stripper? Thanks.
yes a paint thinner should work though it may have to soak for a wile. BLO is actually what a lot of Oil based paints were made with.
I believe in one of your older videos, you talk about using BLO with a wax mixed in with it. When would you add the wax to the oil so that it combine with it? What kind of wax would you use that wouldn't separate from the oil?
Thanks
yup I did a whole video on that. the wax oil mix makes paste wax. and you can put in what ever wax and oil mix you want. I normally use bees wax. and you only have to heat it up to around 200F for that. no reason to even get to the smoke point.
I don't know James sounds like an insurance scam to get a new gas grill lol nice job brother very explanatory.
LOL sounds about right!
Mr. Wright, First thank you for the videos. They are great. After watching a few, I bought some BLO to try and will be hunting down a good source for the non-toxic variety. I am always looking for safer options with regards to fumes and skin contact. My hobbies shouldn't be slowly killing me.
Do you have any recommendations for a durable finish along these same lines? I would like to not wear a respirator and gloves if I don't have to.
most any film finish is going to have a polymer that will cure and then require gloves. but a traditional shellac is about as pure as it comes. I would recommend wearing gloves as you do not want to be picking it off your hands for the next few days but if you do get some on you it is not a health risk.
Thanks for the info James! 👍 Been looking forward to this!
thanks Fred! glad I could help!
Okay question. At what temperature does Flax oil Combust?
And to be clear what temperature do we need to reach ?
I wish I could give you exact temperatures but it depends on the oil you're working with. As there are a lot of other compounds in there the temperature can change depending upon how pure your oil is.
Have you thought about removing the protein from the flax oil before you boil it? Biggest advantage being you have an oil that does not attract bugs/mildew or can go rancid over time as the food value has accentually been removed, leaving only what is good for wood surfaces. Thanks for the video!
I have done that, but I am not a fan of the color, and that is the big reason I use it. plus I use it fast enough there is no fear of it going rancid before use.
Hmm that is interesting as I assume the DIY BLO with protein is darker correct? We have always worked towards the lightest color possible so it highlights the natural color of the wood so that is a new perspective! You definitely need a purified linseed oil oil to make exterior paint and stain but interior projects probably doesn't matter.
The fat and protein are what bring out the striking color difference and chatoyancy in figured wood. that is the big reason they do not bleach most commercial versions. but when you want to color something with a pigment then you do not want the color of the oil to mix with the pigment. that is why it is normally bleached before making paint or stains. this is, in fact, the historical method for artistic oil paints. but for just that natural wood look with just a hint of color to bring out and punctuate the wood figure, not much works as well as pure linseed oil.
Thats interesting as there is a still a lovely color to the purified linseed oil as it is not bleached but I'm now curious. Will have to find time for an experiment of my own with conventional boiled linseed oil and purified! Thanks again!
I was thinking of trying refined linseed oil, which i assume has has the proteins removed?
Is that temperture in celsius or farenheit?
farenheit
I read somewhere that old fashioned (pre 1880's) methods for boiled linseed oil required 600 degrees Celsius in a vacuum container. I need some of that type for a hobby of mine. Will your friend sell any of his next time he makes more?
they did not require the vacuum boiling that just made it safer. you end up with basically the same product whether vacuum boiled or open boiled vacuum boiled is just safer. my friend does not sell it he just makes it for his own use.
Thanks for the feedback. I noticed you heated yours up to reach a certain temperature. According to the formula I'm looking for, the oil needs to be kept at 600 C for 8 hours. How long did you it take for your concoction to reach 460 F? What I'm looking for is a naturally polymerized linseed oil....
How starts it burning? Violently or just lower flames that appear from the start?
If it is the second, easy to stop it burning if you put a metal lid on it.
I have never taken it that far but from what I understand it will quickly cause the pot to erupt
Hi, there again I am making walnut and cherry shot glasses. What would you use for a safe food finish please?Thanks
I would use a homemade boiled linseed oil. If you can't get that then raw Lindsay oil will work fine it just takes a week or more for it to fully cure. I would not use a Shellac as that can dissolve in alcohol.
@@WoodByWright can I ad beeswax????
Say one part of each?
@@WoodByWright What about lindseed oil and raw coconut oil do you think it will do the same just a added fragrance to round it off??
Thank you for your time answering...🍻
Sure. That will help.
I wouldn't use coconut oil as that does not polymerize so any liquid you put into it will allow the coconut oil to leach into it.
I just stumbled onto this video, sorry for the necro comment, but I found this really very interesting. Do you happen to know if this same process could be used for tung oil? I happen to have a rather large stash of raw tung oil
yes it can. I do not know what it's ignition temperature is though. it can be done in the same manner though. I would have to do more research and testing to find the ignition temperature though. and I would stay 20 degrees or more below that.
Can you use boiled linseed oil on projects that will come into contact with food? (Ie mugs, bowls, spoons, cutting boards, etc.)
If you make it yourself or have someone else who traditionally boils it then yes as it's just linseed oil. however if you buy it from the store then no because it comes with other chemical dryers in it.
out of curiosity, why do you remove the fat from the bleached oil like in your other video but not with the traditional boiled oil?
that is what helps the bleached oil cure faster. if you wanted to you could then boil the bleached oil. but once it has been boiled the fat does not come out as easily.
Do you happen to know the ignition point temperature at all? Like how close is my 460f oil to igniting??!
it is around 620F but that can very a bit by how the oil was pressed and processed. Usually I say just keep it under 580f
Looks like you got a brand new shop apron. Still has the crease in it. What is the brand? I thought you were thinking about making a "vest"
here is the apron. amzn.to/2ueinsQ I like the waxed canvas and hardware of this one.
thanks for the video. QUESTION: When boiling under a vacuum, the boiling point is lowered depending on how much vacuum has been applied. What is the important aspect of the project? Reaching a certain temperature ? Or the actual boiling of the oil?
You don't actually boil the oil. It's just the term used for the process. The boiling point of the oil is way over the flashpoint. You heat it to the exact same temperatures as you would outside You just heat it a little bit farther. Because there's no oxygen in the environment then it can't combust. You just have to make sure you let it cool down before you break the vacuum. But you still have to heat it to the same temperature.
@@WoodByWright Many thanks.
I really liked your video very helpful..subscribed ✨️
Btw can i use regular linseed oil ( the one i use for oil painting) ?
sure. it just takes 5-10 times longer to cure
Interesting James. Is George H alluding to a pressure cooker? Would that work?
cheers...rr
The idea of oil above flash point under presure is enough to keep me up at night. LOL
Dumb idea? We sure nipped that one in the bud, lol....cheers...rr
Hi Richard, that was my thought.
Thanks for the quick answer James.
Hi James, how does the vacuum method work, I`m guessing the air is removed from the chamber, then heated?! or is it actually a pressure pot?
the air is removed and the gas that comes off the oil is also removed as it is heated. you do not want oil above flash point under pressure. that is called a bomb. LOL
Sounds dangerous I'm in!🤣🤣🤣
What would the difference in the finish of boiled or unboiled
there really is not a difforence other then boiled will dry in 24 hours. raw oil can take weeks or months.
Can the homemade stuff still catch fire? That’s the one thing that makes me a little cautious of linseed oil
Yes. I have a video showing it catch on fire. To be honest it takes every specific circumstances. So as long as you follow a few steps it's very safe to use.
Great video! Thank you. Quick question. What is the shelf life on this oil processed this way vs vacuum polymerized if I were to make some for my wooden cutting board and spoons. A company that makes this stuff (TT), says they don’t have a shelf life. I’m guessing they vacuum boil.
Also, what “liability”? Is there that your friend won’t sell it?
I have no idea what the actual shelf life is as most of the time I use up all of my oil in under a year but I would guess you're probably good to have it for a year or two without any problem.
Here’s a question, is it safe to use it on cutting boards and spoons!?
@@chadwickbikerboy09 yup. of you male it yourself there is nothing in it but Linseed oil
Alum is supposed to be a very good chemical drier for linseed oil [1] and is used in deodorant so should be safe for skin contact even after heating. But it's not used as much industrially since it doesn't work with all varnish resins. I might try using it someday. [1]: Zumbühl, Stefan & Zindel, Christophe. (2022). Historical siccatives for...
Alum as the name suggest is an Aluminium compound and its use in deodorants stirred up quite the controversy because it was deemed carcinogenic and thought to cause some mood disorders. That has largely been debunked now, so skin contact should be save indeed. I would still be a bit careful re food safety.
@@con-f-use Potash alum is pretty safe, it's used in pickling and baking. Food grade alum is readily available in Amazon.
Hi James, I've follow your method to make BLO, but when I boiled it to around 440 F it smokes a lot then I stopped, is it ok for polymerization? Recently I use the BLO to do the finishing of my DIY guitar it looks beautiful. I put 9 coats and wet sand to 2000, I want to ask how long dose it take to dry fully? Thanks.
I would have to watch it to see if it went foggy. But sounds like you are good. I never let BLO cure before I apply pastewax. It also depends on how thick you apply it. Most of the time it is dry to the touch in 24 hours.
Thank you!!!
I've been putting multiple coats of boiled linseed oil on a table-top workbench. Doing the top side now. However, the bottom is a sheet of 1/4" over 3/4" rough plywood. That side just kept sucking up oil like I was pouring on a sponge.
yup. some woods and expectedly end grain will do that. the oil can penetrate deeply. if you put the first coat on and wait 2 days then put the second coat on it will not soak up as much as the first coat has hardened and blocked the poors.
The vacuum also lowers the boiling point of the linseed oil.
It does. But that is somewhat of a misnomer as you are not actually boiling the oil you were just getting it to a temperature where a few chemical reactions happen.
I was wondering the whether the boiling was for evaporation, or for causing changes in the oil itself.
Hi James..thanks for the video. IMPORTANT QUESTION.. if you talk temperature.. i assume you mean CELCIUS and not Fahrenheit ?? Thanks.
No most of the time I refer to Fahrenheit unless I mention otherwise.
James, thank you so much for such plain-to-read tutorial. However, I have hit a block and wonder if you or any other commentators can help: I have brought pure flax oil to the boiling point as per described, but now it would not cure at all (four days passed and the surface is still wet). The wood was not clean - the reason why I attempted to make BLO was that I ran out of commercial (i.e. with additives) oil just a fraction before the entire project with shelving was to be completed. So the homemade oil was applied to a layer of cured commercial linseed oil. This probably explains why it wouldn't penetrate the surface, however the rag I spread it with is also not dry, i.e. homemaid BLO is not curing there either. Naturally, I am looking for advice on how to remedy this - simply wipe everything off and do not attempt anything? Would boiling the oil further give it more polymerisation? Will it help if I mimic the composition of commercial BLO by adding something to my homemade stuff? Thank you.
It sounds like it didn't get quite hot enough. There's a point at which you start to see this stringiness inside. It almost looks like spaghetti in the oil. The oil doesn't actually boil. It just reaches the right temperature. But to fix the surface you can just wipe off what is still on there. Any little bit will eventually cure. It's basically still raw linseed oil. Which can often take a month or more to fully cure.
Try mixing that non curing linseed oil 50/50 with pure gum turpentine. Should speed up the drying time.
Thank you for taking the time and all the effort to make this video. I have been looking for boiled linseed oil and unfortunately I can’t find it where I live. I will be trying this today (definitely safely in an open outdoor area). I wanted to ask if this boiled linseed oil can be used to make danish oil which as I understand is a blend of boiled linseed oil, polyurethane and mineral spirits?
Thanks once again and cheers. New subscriber and fan!
Edit: how long do you think the danish oil made with this boiled linseed oil will take to dry?
Yes. That would make a great base for a Danish oil. Generally Danish oil is linseed oil plus something else. Most commonly a lacquer or polyurethane.
Thank you for the reply ❤️
hi there :) but is it food-safe (as a cuttinboard finish)!? I might have missed the information - and on the www I did not find any answer, that would seem reliable.. And of course, I'm not talking about industrial BLO, I'm talking about "home made" BLO out of natural, food grade linseedoil.. I'm kinda confused. and BTW - nice video of course :)
Thanks for sharing. But why call it "boiled" when that stage wasn't reached but merely heated?
It's a bit of a misnomer. Oil doesn't actually boil and evaporate like water. It will keep heating up until it just catches fire. It has more to do with the historical naming of the method.
Might be a silly question, but do you need to worry about spontaneous combustion of rags with the homemade blo, or is that only with the store-bought with the added chemicals? I have some store bought and I'm almost frightened to use it for fear of rags catching fire!
yes the same here though it is a little harder to get them to combustion it can happen in the right circumstances. I have a video showing it if you want to see. ruclips.net/video/MDPLFoWNlV8/видео.html
Hi there from Portugal(Coimbra)
Nice :D
Obrigado(Thanks)
thanks man!