Thanks for posting! An easy way to separate the oil is put the jar in the freezer. A plastic jar preferably. Your method also works ok with boiled linseed oil from the hardware store. The stuff we're trying to remove is protein and gum which they call mucilage. It's the part that supports mold growth. Leave raw purified oil in the sun for a long time to make sun thickened linseed oil for oil painting. Flaxseed oil is the same as linseed oil but if it's intended for consumption it probably has an antioxidant like vitamin E added to prevent it from going rancid. But the oxidation is what causes the oil to polymerize and become solid. I'm not sure if the amount of vitamin E is enough to prevent drying completely. It probably slows it down a lot. One last thing. Don't put linseed oil soaked rags in the trash. They can build up enough heat while oxidizing to combust. Lay them out in the sun or soak them under water.
As mentioned by others a separatory funnel is the way to go. But a simple alternative is to transfer the remaining fat layer to a narrower container, add water, shake, wait, siphon. The narrower cross section of the container means the relative height of the layers are more pronounced (like with a graduated cylinder) , making it easier to distinguish. Add the remaining fat back into the next batch. The [protein rich] water, and interface layer, should still technically be food (for something) at minimum it can be added to a composting heap.
Flaxseed oil and linseed oil are he same thing. What you have there is sun-bleached flaxseed/linseed oil. Bleached linseed oil dries faster than raw linseed oil. If you leave it in the sun long enough, about one to two years, it will go colourless. Artists have being making paints from this for centuries.
Flaxseed oil and linseed oil aren't exactly the same thing. By most definitions, flaxseed oil becomes linseed oil once it has been refined in some manner (i.e. when at least some amount of mucilage has been removed).
you can move it to a narrower jar, OR, suck up really slowly with the syringe (so it doesn't pull as deeply). You can also suck it up into the syringe and let it stand (plunger side up) until it separates down, then, keeping it upright, squirt out the water and maybe a little extra just in case.
I love it. Thank you so much. I have wanted to get into revivi g and restoring old furniture and antiques for years. Finally. I am employing some methods i have learned thanks to darlings like you. I have a collection of furniture and a few antiqjes that must be revived.
Would putting it in the fridge help set the fats so that you could either pour off the oil, or suck it up with a turkey baster (might allow for a bit more control so you don't disturb the fat)?
Nice video Bill. Hope you are keeping well. Over here in the UK we have two types of linseed oil. Boiled and raw. The boiled linseed oil will solidify with time whereas the raw never sets. Sandy
hello Sandy, I had the same problem with my raw linseed oil no setting. Kenneth helped me with that problem.. it took direct ultraviolet rays for couple days for the raw to set. Good to hear from you Sandy
Boiled linseed oil is ordinary linseed oil with chemical additives and is available in most countries. Raw linseed oil will dry eventually. Flaxseed oil IS linseed oil. The only difference that I can find is that flaxseed oil is certified for human consumption.
I have never got into the details on flax seed oil , but with canola , when it ripens not all the seeds do so at the same time , some still have chlorophyll . growers aim for 100% ripe at harvest , but up to 2% green is still good for human consumption, I think some commercial foods can use a cut rate product that has more . anything over 6% is animal feed , over 30% is industrial use . it might be that flax and linseed difference is something similar
sounds like you have been busy taro, glad you stopped by. the natural sealer is also good for sealing bow drill sets from moister and humidity. take care my friend. ..bill
I bought a bottle raw linseed oil about the same sizes that u have there can u take that linseed oil and do it again will it get darker or can u just take it and put it in sun light
Late to the party, but a fat separator would work great to get all liquid out leaving you with the oil. Find in kitchen supply area of stores. I’m talking the type used to separate drippings from fat for gravy.
what is excellent tutorial video Billy Joe. I will have to try to duplicate this project. I hope I can get the same results as you did... I want a different subject. I noticed that good looking dog in the background. Have you had him on the trail yet?
Why is commercial linseed oil boiled and what the heck is a "linseed" anyway ? Great video, I plan to treat an unfinished axe handle and waterproof some leather knife sheaths with this method.
edward harding Plain, natural linseed oil is extracted by pressing flax seeds or separating it from flax seed oil like you see in the video. It makes a fantastic wood finish. But, it takes a long time to cure (dry). Somewhere along the line, our woodworking ancestors figured out that linseed oil cured quicker after it was boiled. Because of its faster curing rate, you see boiled linseed oil (BLO) more commonly used than natural linseed oil as a wood finish. Now, there is a significant difference between natural linseed oil that's been boiled and the inexpensive commercially available stuff that's been modified or treated with chemicals and labeled as BLO. Large manufacturers commonly use solvents to first extract linseed oil from flax seeds as opposed to pressing them or separating it from flax seed oil as seen in the video. Then heavy metal salts and/or more solvents are added as drying agents. Both 100% pure BLO and the "fake" BLO (sometimes labeled as modified linseed oil) both function almost identically when it comes to wood finishing. Except one is good safe and one is not.
Finally a clear and easy explaining how to do. Thank you. One question, can i mix it with warm beewax for doing the floor, what do you think?. ( melting beewax and mix it).
Use one part pure beeswax to three parts oil. If you are preparing your oil as shown here, it should also be food safe. Check out James Wright on ruclips.net/video/WiMw71UBj3M/видео.html.
Hi Bill, I have a quick question for you please. Can I use this process on boiled linseed oil or flax oil organic cold pressed from supermarket?. I want to make oil paints with dry pigment so need it still to dry after this process. Regards Paul.
That's a GREAT easy way to get the Linseed Oil. Question?? When you say you can process it again to make it clear, do you process the new oil and add water??? OR do you do the same jar again?? Thanks Mark
You can wash it again, as he's demonstrated to remove fats, but to try to get it close to clear, you'll just need to leave the linseed oil in the sun. In my experience leaving it in a jar inside on a window sill takes about 12-18 months for it to become fairly bleached with only a faint yellow colour.
Thanks for the video. Definitely will try it. Once you have done this, how long does the linseed oil last before it goes bad and how do you store it? Cheers
Quality control comment. Great content. Bill, your audio quality here is so-so, and you're a bit hard to understand because my ear is not attuned to a Southern dialect, especially with the music competing with your voice. Humbly submitted in support of your excellence.
"How to make natural linseed oil" Buy a bottle. This video shows how to *bleach* linseed oil. The UV of the sun separates the proteins from the fats, with the fat (oil) on top, the proteins in the middle, and the water below.
No offence....but this isn't going to work. You're attempting to remove the mucilage from the oil not the fats, which are the fragments of seed that will decompose as air enters the oil. This will turn the oil dark brown...permanently , which is not the same as the yellowing in linseed oil that can be bleached by leaving in the sun. When you mix water with oil you get a colloid which is a temporary emulsion...like a vinegraitte..which will seprate when not used. Mixing water with oil simply puts more moisture into the oil which will do nothing to make it dry faster. The supposed gunk or "break" in between the oil and the water is just the colloid of the two which would appear when simply carefully pouring the oil into the water. The pressure of the two liquids against each other will create a thin colloid layer. This is not mucilage. The way painters of the past refined linseed oil ...and it was crucial for them because unrefined oil would make the paintings irreversibly damaged by going dark brown. They used alcohol as the basis of their process because they knew it worked. Once refined it can be left in the hot sun for at least a week to polymerise it...which would make it harder to work with as it becomes more viscous, but faster drying.
I don't under stand why you are differentiating "fat" from "oil" they are the same thing. Oil is basically pure fat. Perhaps the middle layer is saturated fat. Your terms are confusing.
Thanks for posting! An easy way to separate the oil is put the jar in the freezer. A plastic jar preferably. Your method also works ok with boiled linseed oil from the hardware store. The stuff we're trying to remove is protein and gum which they call mucilage. It's the part that supports mold growth. Leave raw purified oil in the sun for a long time to make sun thickened linseed oil for oil painting. Flaxseed oil is the same as linseed oil but if it's intended for consumption it probably has an antioxidant like vitamin E added to prevent it from going rancid. But the oxidation is what causes the oil to polymerize and become solid. I'm not sure if the amount of vitamin E is enough to prevent drying completely. It probably slows it down a lot. One last thing. Don't put linseed oil soaked rags in the trash. They can build up enough heat while oxidizing to combust. Lay them out in the sun or soak them under water.
As mentioned by others a separatory funnel is the way to go. But a simple alternative is to transfer the remaining fat layer to a narrower container, add water, shake, wait, siphon. The narrower cross section of the container means the relative height of the layers are more pronounced (like with a graduated cylinder) , making it easier to distinguish. Add the remaining fat back into the next batch. The [protein rich] water, and interface layer, should still technically be food (for something) at minimum it can be added to a composting heap.
Flaxseed oil and linseed oil are he same thing. What you have there is sun-bleached flaxseed/linseed oil. Bleached linseed oil dries faster than raw linseed oil. If you leave it in the sun long enough, about one to two years, it will go colourless. Artists have being making paints from this for centuries.
Flaxseed oil and linseed oil aren't exactly the same thing. By most definitions, flaxseed oil becomes linseed oil once it has been refined in some manner (i.e. when at least some amount of mucilage has been removed).
Great How to! I love the smell of the pure stuff!
can't beat the old smell, i take my oil cloth to all the meets..
..bill
you can move it to a narrower jar, OR, suck up really slowly with the syringe (so it doesn't pull as deeply). You can also suck it up into the syringe and let it stand (plunger side up) until it separates down, then, keeping it upright, squirt out the water and maybe a little extra just in case.
Great how too, thanks. The pup looked like he was having a grand time as well.
he his a great new pup in the denny house..thanks william , you would really like the natural linseed oil for your projects.
..bill
Excellent démonstration Bill. Old school rocks!
yes sir ken, i forgot to mention that you helped me years back with the ultraviolet secret for refining and drying. thanks my friend.
..bill
I love it. Thank you so much. I have wanted to get into revivi g and restoring old furniture and antiques for years. Finally. I am employing some methods i have learned thanks to darlings like you. I have a collection of furniture and a few antiqjes that must be revived.
Would putting it in the fridge help set the fats so that you could either pour off the oil, or suck it up with a turkey baster (might allow for a bit more control so you don't disturb the fat)?
A fat separator used for turkey drippings at thanksgiving should be a good way to recover most of the oil.
Nice video Bill. Hope you are keeping well. Over here in the UK we have two types of linseed oil. Boiled and raw. The boiled linseed oil will solidify with time whereas the raw never sets.
Sandy
hello Sandy, I had the same problem with my raw linseed oil no setting. Kenneth helped me with that problem.. it took direct ultraviolet rays for couple days for the raw to set. Good to hear from you Sandy
You left the purified oil in the sun for a couple of days and it dries faster on your projects?
yes sir, ultraviolet rays is a must for drying
Boiled linseed oil is ordinary linseed oil with chemical additives and is available in most countries. Raw linseed oil will dry eventually. Flaxseed oil IS linseed oil. The only difference that I can find is that flaxseed oil is certified for human consumption.
I have never got into the details on flax seed oil , but with canola , when it ripens not all the seeds do so at the same time , some still have chlorophyll . growers aim for 100% ripe at harvest , but up to 2% green is still good for human consumption, I think some commercial foods can use a cut rate product that has more . anything over 6% is animal feed , over 30% is industrial use . it might be that flax and linseed difference is something similar
Just was just plain cool right there Bill! Wow! I like the idea of it not having all the added chemicals, like store bought oil. Good seein' ya'!!!
thanks my friend, this oil is awesome to use. and yes , no chemicals to make it harmful to use...
..bill
Great video Bill. Looking forward to seeing more videos like this. Thanks for sharing.
thanks robert, you would really enjoy natural linseed oil for your projects .
..bill
Interesting and useful project. Thanks for sharing the knowledge.
i use it for sealing everything ,,lol. and love the smell.
..bill
Would refrigerating the jar when you get down to the last of the oil maybe harden the fat and make it solid?
Dose the source of of the water (faucet, bottled, distilled) make a difference
The best way to do it is with a cloth. It makes a siphon almost and draws over the oil. No syringe. That’s the way Da Vinci did it.
Hi Bill, is probably the first video i watch here on youtube since two month:-) very informative my friend, thanks for the tips!!! Taro
sounds like you have been busy taro, glad you stopped by. the natural sealer is also good for sealing bow drill sets from moister and humidity.
take care my friend.
..bill
I bought a bottle raw linseed oil about the same sizes that u have there can u take that linseed oil and do it again will it get darker or can u just take it and put it in sun light
You are awesome Billy
How does a hot climate 100+ effect the process of sitting in the sun?
Late to the party, but a fat separator would work great to get all liquid out leaving you with the oil. Find in kitchen supply area of stores. I’m talking the type used to separate drippings from fat for gravy.
what is excellent tutorial video Billy Joe. I will have to try to duplicate this project. I hope I can get the same results as you did... I want a different subject. I noticed that good looking dog in the background. Have you had him on the trail yet?
no dog trailing Mr Bob, it's a great sealer for small projects. thanks for stopping by brother.
..bill
What would leaving the mix in the sun for a week do ??? Thanks
longer in the sun , more clear it gets
@@billyjoedenny How many days will it take for maximum clarity that can be attended using the sun ??? Thanks Billy.
@@billyjoedenny What it the time limit that the color does not change ??? Thanks
sorry i never took it that far . let me know if you do..
@@billyjoedenny Hopefully will try it next week. Thanks for the honesty Sir. VF
I'm sure glad I found this video, Bill. Thanks for sharing this. I will use this one. = )
it even has the good old school smell to danny..
..bill
Thanks for sharing Billy Joe.
hey loy this wright up your alley brother, you should give it a go..
..bill
Buy a chemistry decanter flask :) absolutely amazing piece of glassware I used a lot
Thanks for this, I can see all sorts of applications!
simple and effective .. Thanks for sharing
Why is commercial linseed oil boiled and what the heck is a "linseed" anyway ? Great video, I plan to treat an unfinished axe handle and waterproof some leather knife sheaths with this method.
"lin" is the latin word for flax.
edward harding
Plain, natural linseed oil is extracted by pressing flax seeds or separating it from flax seed oil like you see in the video. It makes a fantastic wood finish. But, it takes a long time to cure (dry). Somewhere along the line, our woodworking ancestors figured out that linseed oil cured quicker after it was boiled. Because of its faster curing rate, you see boiled linseed oil (BLO) more commonly used than natural linseed oil as a wood finish.
Now, there is a significant difference between natural linseed oil that's been boiled and the inexpensive commercially available stuff that's been modified or treated with chemicals and labeled as BLO.
Large manufacturers commonly use solvents to first extract linseed oil from flax seeds as opposed to pressing them or separating it from flax seed oil as seen in the video. Then heavy metal salts and/or more solvents are added as drying agents.
Both 100% pure BLO and the "fake" BLO (sometimes labeled as modified linseed oil) both function almost identically when it comes to wood finishing. Except one is good safe and one is not.
Thank you Bill, was that mixed with bottled water?
I'll have to re-watch this when I'm not tired subbed!
Finally a clear and easy explaining how to do. Thank you. One question, can i mix it with warm beewax for doing the floor, what do you think?. ( melting beewax and mix it).
Use one part pure beeswax to three parts oil. If you are preparing your oil as shown here, it should also be food safe. Check out James Wright on ruclips.net/video/WiMw71UBj3M/видео.html.
It's still flax seed oil but without the fat. Why do they Change the name?
Linn means without?
got me my friend, i do know that it works great .
..bill
suck it up into the doowhacky and let the water settle to the bottom. Then squirt the water out.
Hi Bill, I have a quick question for you please. Can I use this process on boiled linseed oil or flax oil organic cold pressed from supermarket?.
I want to make oil paints with dry pigment so need it still to dry after this process.
Regards Paul.
hey it will take ultravilet from the sun to make it dry.. and yes you can make this from supermarket flax oil ..
Many thanks for your quick reply Bill. regards Paul.
That's a GREAT easy way to get the Linseed Oil. Question?? When you say you can process it again to make it clear, do you process the new oil and add water??? OR do you do the same jar again??
Thanks Mark
You can wash it again, as he's demonstrated to remove fats, but to try to get it close to clear, you'll just need to leave the linseed oil in the sun. In my experience leaving it in a jar inside on a window sill takes about 12-18 months for it to become fairly bleached with only a faint yellow colour.
Great DIY Billy Joe! Thanks :D
thanks, you would like the results of this linseed oil
Thanks for the video. Definitely will try it.
Once you have done this, how long does the linseed oil last before it goes bad and how do you store it?
Cheers
give it a go thorn,, seems to last ... for drying , ultra violet rays from the sun helps..
billy joe
This is a good informative video, thanks.!
hey thanks Ron ...
..bill
Interesting demonstration, how to make this oil. Thank you for sharing. ATB,
benjamin:)
thanks my friend..
..bill
Good demo, Bill.
thanks larry, lost footage will filming the video. i had to peace it together..
..bill
Very cool process Bill
works great bud, with the old school smell of oilcloths..
..bill
Greetings, thanks for sharing. I'll be getting some natural pigment and making some paint I think..... pax
Can we this for cricket bat
that's pretty neat thanks for sharing
thanks willy
How about coconut oil?
I Love the Dog 🐶
awesome great info
great video bill
Interesting, reminds me of lab work...
Thanks for the tutorial.
thanks nathan, this is a old school method with none of the bad chemicals..
..bill
What was in the measuring cup?~ I missed that.
If only there was a way to go back and rewatch the video... oh well. Doc Brown.. .please help!
is it pure water? because i can 't here properly .
yes , just water is needed to separate the fats from the oil..
billy joe
Love it!!!
Thanks for sharing...
Cheers
ShazBoo
:-)
thanks, it's a easy project with great results
That is good information to have. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
better then store bought for sure .. thanks.
..bill
Terrific.
Quality control comment. Great content. Bill, your audio quality here is so-so, and you're a bit hard to understand because my ear is not attuned to a Southern dialect, especially with the music competing with your voice. Humbly submitted in support of your excellence.
"How to make natural linseed oil" Buy a bottle.
This video shows how to *bleach* linseed oil. The UV of the sun separates the proteins from the fats, with the fat (oil) on top, the proteins in the middle, and the water below.
Fatty acids give wood a red patina with age.
Would you recommend it for refinishing a gun stock?
Thank You
Started from Flaxseed oil ended with Flaxseed oil (Linseed oil)!
Pity that music was playing.
Use Windex for arthritis. Duh. :-D
You also didn't really make anything you refined it.
How inconsiderate of your dog wanting to play and become famous 😂😂
Nice how to
No offence....but this isn't going to work. You're attempting to remove the mucilage from the oil not the fats, which are the fragments of seed that will decompose as air enters the oil. This will turn the oil dark brown...permanently , which is not the same as the yellowing in linseed oil that can be bleached by leaving in the sun. When you mix water with oil you get a colloid which is a temporary emulsion...like a vinegraitte..which will seprate when not used. Mixing water with oil simply puts more moisture into the oil which will do nothing to make it dry faster. The supposed gunk or "break" in between the oil and the water is just the colloid of the two which would appear when simply carefully pouring the oil into the water. The pressure of the two liquids against each other will create a thin colloid layer. This is not mucilage.
The way painters of the past refined linseed oil ...and it was crucial for them because unrefined oil would make the paintings irreversibly damaged by going dark brown. They used alcohol as the basis of their process because they knew it worked. Once refined it can be left in the hot sun for at least a week to polymerise it...which would make it harder to work with as it becomes more viscous, but faster drying.
I don't under stand why you are differentiating "fat" from "oil" they are the same thing. Oil is basically pure fat. Perhaps the middle layer is saturated fat. Your terms are confusing.
Sorry, I can't ontinue watching. The Music plus the scratching noise is drowning your voice enough to lose intelligibility.
Scrathing noise??
ANYONE understands this gibberish slang?