HOW TO DIY- GLASS SLAB/ BASE DE VIDRIO PARA PREPARAR PINTURAS :) If you want to make a bigger/cheap/diy slab, you can buy a piece of glass(any size you want or need), and you can prepare it with a 60 grit sandpaper (sandpaper is basically a sheet of sillicon carbide). You need to sand the surface of the glass you are gonna work on until it became opaque (you can check by placing your hand under the glass, the less clear it gets the better). Be sure to cover your mouth and nose using a mask while sanding, if you use water through the process you can reduce the risk of breathing the glass particles. Enjoy your new slab. Si desea hacer una base de vidrio más grande / barata / diy, puede comprar un trozo de vidrio (del tamaño que desee o necesite), y puede prepararlo con un papel de lija de grano 60 (el papel de lija es básicamente una hoja de carburo de silicio). Debe lijar la superficie del vidrio en el que va a trabajar hasta que se vuelva opaco (puede verificar colocando su mano debajo del vidrio, cuanto menos claro sea, mejor). Asegúrese de cubrirse la boca y la nariz con una máscara mientras lija; si usa agua durante el proceso, puede reducir el riesgo de respirar las partículas de vidrio. Disfruta tu nueva base para preparar pintura.
Just started Oil Painting. I’m very happy I’m taking the time learning from the Masters of the craft who have studied a great deal to also pass the knowledge on . Especially happy to find that people still care about true Quality that will stand the test of time. Hope I’ll be able to meet some of you great Artists in my lifetime.
may i give you some advice how to load paint in tube way more faster, you just need to put paint in a wax paper then rool it up, make sure if it fits in to the tube after that you put that rolled paint in tube then simply squeze all of the paint with some round thing like glass bottle or something.
So basically you make your own Zorn pallete. Makes a lot of sense considering you seem to specialize in portraits. I think I would do the same. It’s the way the masters did it. Do what they did and you can relate to how they felt about their paintings.
Thank you for sharing this process! Last year I started building my own frames, stretching and oil prepping my linen. It changed the quality of my pieces significantly. I look forward to creating my own paints as I use up my existing stash of oils. I know the result will be the same. Thank you for continually inspiring and pushing us further, and for sharing resources!
Thanks, I needed to make fluroscent neon colours and had both the pigments and the oil but was worried if other binders are necessary, so now I can get on with it immediately without any further contemplation.
Other binders will change the tradeoffs between drying time and amount of yellowing. I actually think it's generally better to use a moderate mixture of lean and fat when making a paint so that it's easier to choose later if you want it to be lean or fat when painting and using it (versus 100% oil takes more alkyd or turpentine or whatever added in the moment to overwhelm it). You may also need some preservatives if you're using your own plant based pigments, as they can mold. And you may want some fillers if it's a very strong pigment, like adding chalk or marble powder. For example Pthalo Blue is super strongly tinting and hard to use if it does NOT have filler in it, filler actually makes it a better paint. Weaker pigments are better without filler. Filler also of course saves you money if you like to use thick paint. Same as how it saves money for professional paint manufacturers, it does for you too.
The video is very inspiring. I am waiting for my bigger glass muller and the empty tubes and then I can start making my own oil paints... Thanks for boosting our motivation for making our own paints.
There are good paint brands (even in student grade), and there are bad paints too. I have extensively read upon the subject and used some of them. They usually add extenders (they also call it fillers), namely calcium-carbonate (PW 18), and it is true that that the ratio of pigment is lower in those oil paints, yet calcium carbonate, chalk, or whatever, has a tendency not only to make the wet paint more workable for impasto or free brushwork, but also strengthens the paint film, of course all comes to the cost of being lighter in tone! But this is up to preference how one makes use of it. If one is following the "Old Master Technique" it is a more wiser choice to make your own paint and use as much putty as you need, or not at all, but mostly at the highlights. Rembrandt and Velázquez have used it, so, I think extenders might be tested in archival quality as well.
Wouldn't it be better to just mix up some binder+chalk by itself with no pigment and put that in a tube on its own so that you can choose in the moment when to mix it on the palette versus not? Instead of having it built in and impossible to remove?
@@ianjackson5834 ok thank you! I've made watercolors before, howver I am more into painting with gouache than watercolor now. I want to try making gouache instead... But info on how to make gouache specifically is rather sparse lol. Thanks!
Thank you for the wonderful video master. It was really informative. Your passion and dedication to the craft is what makes it so mesmerising. Loved your T shirt design. I hope you will bring more such stuff..
Boom Shankar man... love it... totally inspiring... Im a very poor artist, living in the middle of nowhere, self sustain me and my family... we live close to the land... to learn how to make my own paints is totally my bag... one day i will be able to afford fancy things... one day... love your stuff... more videos please
Dear Sant....you are excellent...Very much like your art work. Being junior artist I am requesting you to upload few more oil painting steps by step.....please
Great video Cesar. Your videos are always educational as well as entertaining. So I've got a zillion oak trees around the house. Every years tens of zillions of acorns fall...all by themselves. I was wondering if you, or anybody you know, (or even other viewers) have ever experimented, or aware of any research/testing on using acorn oil to mix with pigments to produce acorn oil paint. Issues I can think of are drying properties, viscosity fluid enough to actually interact properly with the pigment, yellowing, etc.; or even if not used primarily to make the paint, used as an additive medium. I'm thinking extraction of the oil may be simple enough in small batches with an oil press, and I got free ones everywhere.
This sounds very therapeutic 😌 I've always wanted to try mixing my own paints. But what about making your own pigments? Are there any colors that you create the pigments for instead of buying the pigments?
Amazing!! I've discovered your channel lately, and I'm so inspired by your art and by your attitude. Thanks for the great vids. By the way, if you can make someday some videos with key advices for sketching architecture and urban landscape, it would be great!!
of course you need stabilizers for certains colors, as you have realized. Zecchi's Veneziano medium is probably wax based (usually no more than 2% of wax is required for weight of pigment), or you could use aluminium stearate. Either way the "only oil and pigment" it's part of a rethorical marketing concept of a well known brand. Many times additives are NECESSARY for a good color. Even Michael Harding that are handmade (gorgeous colors) use them when it's needed.
Wow what patience. I would imagin the masters had time to do this. We have too many distractions today. I like this video Cesar. Too often today we want everything NOW. I think that time and patience is something the masters had that we dont have today. Thank you love the video. PS Im buying the T Shirt
Is calcium carbonate a stabilizer? Or is it an extender? Glossary, please. I'm a multimedia artist who is on the cusp of oil painting. Really appreciate this video. Thanks, Mr. S. ♥
Calcium carbonate is just chalk, and is considered an adulterant, if anything. The only reason to add it to paint would be to achieve a gritty texture.
@@darkdogstudios Not true at all, there are many reasons: 1) Cost, it is translucent and barely affects the vibrancy of color for the amount of bulk it adds (it does reduce tinting strength but you get more paint so just use more if you need tinting), so if you like doing impasto or using huge amounts of paint, you will save huge amounts of money. Same reason student paints save money for companies and students also applies to you when you are making the paint... 2) It does indeed stabilize the paint and make it separate out less and react less with the air etc. 3) Some pigments are just way too strong, like phthalo blue or pure hematite, and almost impossible to work with if they don't have fillers to calm them down. Pure phthalo would turn almost anything it touched blue instantly with just a pinhead amount of it, and tinting it out with white might not be the color you want. So a translucent filler is the best solution.
@@gavinjenkins899 I believe that it's aluminum Hydroxide that is used for the purpose you describe. Yes, this is what is referred to as a "lake base" . all the so called Lake colours are made with this. They are basically inorganic dyes, and to use them as a pigment they first need to be precipitated and fixed with aluminium hydroxide .Being an inert substance it is also much used as an extender in the manner you describe, however it,s not a good idea to use too much of it, as because of it's transparency the tone of the colour will darken over time. As for being more reactive to air... well, that's how oil paint "drys". It is only the volatile turps that evaporates and the oil oxidizes in the presence of air.
I suspect that making your own oil paints might create a more intimate bond between the painter and his work. Do giants, like Windsor and Newton< market pigments?
I’ve done it, but with egg tempera, you mix pigment with water and only add the egg (yolk only) when painting. The egg doesn’t keep without preservatives. Lots of goods books out there.
Hii, please allow me to ask this maybe stupid question - can any of these be used as pigment a. fine clay b. cement c. lime/slaked lime. I am not worried about the color.
CORDIAL SALUDOS Y BENDICIONES MUY BUENA SU EXPLICACION UNA PREGUNTA ESE POLVO NATURAL ES EL MISMO POLVO MINERAL? LO PUEDO ENVASAR EN VIDRIO? PORQUE TENGO UNOS QUE SON FABRICADOS EN BRASIL, LA MARCA ES BAYCOLOR.
I am going to try this as I love oils but I very sensitive to linseed oil so I am going to try it with poppy oil. Not sure how it will go though, but worth a try if it means being able to paint in oils again! Thanks so much for the advice xxx
I wished I watched this before I tried it, I did two mistakes that were hilarious to try and fix. 1. I did not research enough and I believe we have that same red pigment, it separated in the tube like you said! haha I ended up starting over and using pure beeswax (I could not find your recommendation but this worked the difference I could find is that it took away some of the gloss and make it more matte, so if that's something you're looking for) Second. I hit the cap against the table...and bent it...lol Subscribing.
Does linseed oil go rancid when mixed in pigment, afterwards? I felt like I heard a guy or two tell me so, but I wanted to ensure. If so, what oils can you use aside from linseed that doesn't go rancid?
Its even better if you go out and the pigment yourself from nature, i know a few artists who get pigments from rocks and earth. Once you learn its addictive.
I HAVE A BIGGGGGGGGGGG PROBLEM. Please help me, Cesar. I can´t buy a glass muller and I also can´t sand a piece of glass in this moment. What can I use instead of a glass muller?
well, when I heard I´ve been mixing for a couple of hours..." I knew this wasn't for me. :D I work on large abstract so I need to have paint more readily available. But I appreciate your perfectionism.
You really don't need to do that, at least not the vast majority of the time. Most pigments I mix, I see zero improvement beyond like 5 minutes of mulling. If you ground the pigment itself like if you bashed up some ochre from your backyard or charcoal or something, that's when it would take the longest, but any pigment commercially bought is usually very fine already and mixes in very quickly.
@@trickyone7171 Different pigments are more or less absorbent, so it depends. But on average maybe roughly 50% oil 50% pigment by volume. Pigment usually weighs more than oil, so maybe like 150g of paint? More if it's lightweight like charcoal for black. Less if it's a heavy mineral pigment like iron oxide (red ochre). You can also fill it out with chalk, it makes the final paint a little bit sparkly which is not good, but some pigments are already a little bit sparkly so for those it works well if it's also a strong pigment.
Los mejores oleos que he utilizado son los que hice yo mismo en la escuela de arte.Hoy en dia cuando reviso los cuadros que hice como egercicio,la pintura empastada luce petrea,durisima. La pintura hecha por uno mismo es la mejor.
I liked Your video. Thank You! The only thing: some of the pigments, like Azurite and Malachite should not be ground too much and too finely, otherwise their crystalline surface will be destroyed and their colour brilliance, lost.
The empty tubes I use are already open at the cap end, so when I've finished putting in the paint at the rear of the tube. I take the cap off and thump down as you did when filling it, but with the cap side up. This is to burp out any air pockets that may have been closed in when sealing the bottom. I now tend to lightly squeeze the tube to lessen the tube bulging out at the base too much. Sometimes there's a "pop" as air comes out, sometimes not. It's possible that any small air pockets do no harm. Not providing enough air to cause a bit of drying within the paint*, but I do it anyway for piece of mind. When knocking down with the open cap side up the paint level will tend to drop a little. Naturally all I need to do is lightly squeeze the tube so that the paint level comes back up to the thread top. * I've only once had a paint tube dry on me when I made a tubed pre-mix of bought paints. Both colours were slow drying, but when I tubed them up together, the pre-mix was rock hard within a month! I believe there must have been a reaction from an added drier added and required for one colour, but unnecessary and undesired for the other. Mixed together, they sped to making a small paper weight.
A GOOD WAY TO TUBE PAINTS IS TO GET A PIECE OF WAX PAPER OR DISPOSABLE PALETTE, OUT THE PAINTS ON THE EDGE OF THE PAPER, RAPPED IT UP AND PUT THE EDGE WITH THE PAINT IN THE OPENING OF THE TUBES. THEN TAKE A CYLYINDICAY OBJECT AND ROLLOVER THE WAX PAPER, THE ROLLING WILL SQUEEZE THE PAINT INTO THE TUBE AND THEN TAKE THE PALETTE KNIFE TO SCRAPE THE EXCESS AND PUT IT IN THE TUBE.
Two stupid questions. 1) What is the best way to clean the glass after grinding. 2) How can you figure out the right of pigment and oil so that you don't have alot of left over paint.
The T shirt is freaking me out. LOL I love it.
yeah😅
The hand?🤣🤣🤣
HOW TO DIY- GLASS SLAB/ BASE DE VIDRIO PARA PREPARAR PINTURAS :)
If you want to make a bigger/cheap/diy slab, you can buy a piece of glass(any size you want or need), and you can prepare it with a 60 grit sandpaper (sandpaper is basically a sheet of sillicon carbide). You need to sand the surface of the glass you are gonna work on until it became opaque (you can check by placing your hand under the glass, the less clear it gets the better). Be sure to cover your mouth and nose using a mask while sanding, if you use water through the process you can reduce the risk of breathing the glass particles. Enjoy your new slab.
Si desea hacer una base de vidrio más grande / barata / diy, puede comprar un trozo de vidrio (del tamaño que desee o necesite), y puede prepararlo con un papel de lija de grano 60 (el papel de lija es básicamente una hoja de carburo de silicio). Debe lijar la superficie del vidrio en el que va a trabajar hasta que se vuelva opaco (puede verificar colocando su mano debajo del vidrio, cuanto menos claro sea, mejor). Asegúrese de cubrirse la boca y la nariz con una máscara mientras lija; si usa agua durante el proceso, puede reducir el riesgo de respirar las partículas de vidrio. Disfruta tu nueva base para preparar pintura.
Just started Oil Painting. I’m very happy I’m taking the time learning from the Masters of the craft who have studied a great deal to also pass the knowledge on . Especially happy to find that people still care about true Quality that will stand the test of time. Hope I’ll be able to meet some of you great Artists in my lifetime.
may i give you some advice how to load paint in tube way more faster, you just need to put paint in a wax paper then rool it up, make sure if it fits in to the tube after that you put that rolled paint in tube then simply squeze all of the paint with some round thing like glass bottle or something.
He just needs to make a piping bag, like pastry chefs do. Very little waste.
Absolute dedication and perfectionism about one's craft right here!!! Huge respect Cesar!
This video inspires me so much!!
Just got sent here by Jazza. Massive props to you. Your paints look beautiful
So basically you make your own Zorn pallete. Makes a lot of sense considering you seem to specialize in portraits. I think I would do the same. It’s the way the masters did it. Do what they did and you can relate to how they felt about their paintings.
Thank you for sharing this process! Last year I started building my own frames, stretching and oil prepping my linen. It changed the quality of my pieces significantly. I look forward to creating my own paints as I use up my existing stash of oils. I know the result will be the same. Thank you for continually inspiring and pushing us further, and for sharing resources!
"Oil prepping" your linen? What does that mean?
Thank you César for your generosity in sharing your knowledge
Fantastic explanation of making oil paints from pigments. thank you
Glad you had some background info on stabilisers - fillers is such a throw around term and people don't realise how and why they're added
Thanks, I needed to make fluroscent neon colours and had both the pigments and the oil but was worried if other binders are necessary, so now I can get on with it immediately without any further contemplation.
Other binders will change the tradeoffs between drying time and amount of yellowing. I actually think it's generally better to use a moderate mixture of lean and fat when making a paint so that it's easier to choose later if you want it to be lean or fat when painting and using it (versus 100% oil takes more alkyd or turpentine or whatever added in the moment to overwhelm it). You may also need some preservatives if you're using your own plant based pigments, as they can mold. And you may want some fillers if it's a very strong pigment, like adding chalk or marble powder. For example Pthalo Blue is super strongly tinting and hard to use if it does NOT have filler in it, filler actually makes it a better paint. Weaker pigments are better without filler. Filler also of course saves you money if you like to use thick paint. Same as how it saves money for professional paint manufacturers, it does for you too.
The way u speak and move your hands is art! You're a huge inspiration to me
The video is very inspiring. I am waiting for my bigger glass muller and the empty tubes and then I can start making my own oil paints... Thanks for boosting our motivation for making our own paints.
There are good paint brands (even in student grade), and there are bad paints too. I have extensively read upon the subject and used some of them. They usually add extenders (they also call it fillers), namely calcium-carbonate (PW 18), and it is true that that the ratio of pigment is lower in those oil paints, yet calcium carbonate, chalk, or whatever, has a tendency not only to make the wet paint more workable for impasto or free brushwork, but also strengthens the paint film, of course all comes to the cost of being lighter in tone! But this is up to preference how one makes use of it. If one is following the "Old Master Technique" it is a more wiser choice to make your own paint and use as much putty as you need, or not at all, but mostly at the highlights. Rembrandt and Velázquez have used it, so, I think extenders might be tested in archival quality as well.
Wouldn't it be better to just mix up some binder+chalk by itself with no pigment and put that in a tube on its own so that you can choose in the moment when to mix it on the palette versus not? Instead of having it built in and impossible to remove?
Foi dos vídeos que mais gostei...sou fã
spent this week making pastel gauche watercolour paints, love making my own paint, the less we put add to the paint the better its. tfs
How did making the gouache differ from transparent watercolor? Chalk?
@@ReneeKana its a lot more opaque and is pastel not strongly vibrant.... it is also not chalky in its look, thanks for asking
@@ianjackson5834 ok thank you! I've made watercolors before, howver I am more into painting with gouache than watercolor now. I want to try making gouache instead... But info on how to make gouache specifically is rather sparse lol. Thanks!
You are so cute when you do your videos. Muchas Gracias. Love your painting. Love your generosity. Thank you Cesar!
This is so inspiring. Thank you for your dedication to the medium. I’ll be trying this out today I’m so excited!
Thank you for the wonderful video master. It was really informative.
Your passion and dedication to the craft is what makes it so mesmerising.
Loved your T shirt design. I hope you will bring more such stuff..
You are so fun to watch... you got a nice smile and i can see you have a beautiful heart... blessings one love
Boom Shankar man... love it... totally inspiring... Im a very poor artist, living in the middle of nowhere, self sustain me and my family... we live close to the land... to learn how to make my own paints is totally my bag... one day i will be able to afford fancy things... one day... love your stuff... more videos please
Awesome video‼︎
素晴らしい動画ですね！とても深い学びがありました。貴方は才能に溢れています。これは誰にでも出来る事ではありません。
Dear Sant....you are excellent...Very much like your art work. Being junior artist I am requesting you to upload few more oil painting steps by step.....please
Great, very inspiring,
I also use my own colours, and I add bee wax , just few %, so oil and pigment do not separate after some time
White bee wax, so that the color doesn’t change
Do you add wax directly or a prepepared wax medium? Recipe?
You are amazing my friend.The passion and the way you share with us, just awesome.
Great video Cesar. Your videos are always educational as well as entertaining. So I've got a zillion oak trees around the house. Every years tens of zillions of acorns fall...all by themselves. I was wondering if you, or anybody you know, (or even other viewers) have ever experimented, or aware of any research/testing on using acorn oil to mix with pigments to produce acorn oil paint. Issues I can think of are drying properties, viscosity fluid enough to actually interact properly with the pigment, yellowing, etc.; or even if not used primarily to make the paint, used as an additive medium. I'm thinking extraction of the oil may be simple enough in small batches with an oil press, and I got free ones everywhere.
Bravo!! What an amazing video
That`s so cool?! Creating your own oil colour :-))) I should give it a try ;-)
This sounds very therapeutic 😌
I've always wanted to try mixing my own paints. But what about making your own pigments? Are there any colors that you create the pigments for instead of buying the pigments?
Amazing!! I've discovered your channel lately, and I'm so inspired by your art and by your attitude. Thanks for the great vids. By the way, if you can make someday some videos with key advices for sketching architecture and urban landscape, it would be great!!
Excellent video. Thank you!
of course you need stabilizers for certains colors, as you have realized. Zecchi's Veneziano medium is probably wax based (usually no more than 2% of wax is required for weight of pigment), or you could use aluminium stearate. Either way the "only oil and pigment" it's part of a rethorical marketing concept of a well known brand.
Many times additives are NECESSARY for a good color. Even Michael Harding that are handmade (gorgeous colors) use them when it's needed.
Which type of muller would you recomend? A muller with a stubby handle, or a muller with a long handle?
fascinating episode. Do you need to worry more about how you store tubes of your own paint? Is there a shelf-life concern?
Awesome way to connect more to your art. I will definitely try to make my own paint in the nearest future. Awesome video. Love it:)
I wholeheartedly believe that the secrets of painting come with the familiarity of the materials and/or subjects
How good is your timing Cesar! I just bought your portrait brush set from Rosemary and want to make my own paint. Very cool!
Saludos desde Colombia, cesar: lo ligas con aceite de linaza?... Gracias 👍🙏
Si
@@santocesart gracias 🙏👍
Wow what patience. I would imagin the masters had time to do this. We have too many distractions today. I like this video Cesar. Too often today we want everything NOW. I think that time and patience is something the masters had that we dont have today. Thank you love the video. PS Im buying the T Shirt
A true Renaissance man. Thank you!
Is oil pastels or oil sticks made the same way? Thanks for sharing.
Thank you cesar for informations
Hey Cesar...
You prefer the Rublev or Zecchi piments ?
Awesome!!!
Is calcium carbonate a stabilizer? Or is it an extender? Glossary, please. I'm a multimedia artist who is on the cusp of oil painting. Really appreciate this video. Thanks, Mr. S. ♥
Calcium carbonate is just chalk, and is considered an adulterant, if anything. The only reason to add it to paint would be to achieve a gritty texture.
@@darkdogstudios Not true at all, there are many reasons: 1) Cost, it is translucent and barely affects the vibrancy of color for the amount of bulk it adds (it does reduce tinting strength but you get more paint so just use more if you need tinting), so if you like doing impasto or using huge amounts of paint, you will save huge amounts of money. Same reason student paints save money for companies and students also applies to you when you are making the paint... 2) It does indeed stabilize the paint and make it separate out less and react less with the air etc. 3) Some pigments are just way too strong, like phthalo blue or pure hematite, and almost impossible to work with if they don't have fillers to calm them down. Pure phthalo would turn almost anything it touched blue instantly with just a pinhead amount of it, and tinting it out with white might not be the color you want. So a translucent filler is the best solution.
@@gavinjenkins899 I believe that it's aluminum Hydroxide that is used for the purpose you describe. Yes, this is what is referred to as a "lake base" . all the so called Lake colours are made with this. They are basically inorganic dyes, and to use them as a pigment they first need to be precipitated and fixed with aluminium hydroxide .Being an inert substance it is also much used as an extender in the manner you describe, however it,s not a good idea to use too much of it, as because of it's transparency the tone of the colour will darken over time. As for being more reactive to air... well, that's how oil paint "drys". It is only the volatile turps that evaporates and the oil oxidizes in the presence of air.
This video makes me want to make my own oil paints and start painting again.
All my favorites mix their own
I'm an artist. Out of curiosity, who else is your favourite?
What about using safflower oil? At least for the whites/light colors?
que genio! grande cesar!!
cant you just store the tube of paint upside down to prevent paint sepration?
You are great, man. Rispeect!
which oil is better to use? What is your opinion about Poppy seed oil?
What do you do for blues and yellows?
Amazing.
I suspect that making your own oil paints might create a more intimate bond between the painter and his work. Do giants, like Windsor and Newton< market pigments?
Awesome, I have always wanted to try egg binder with pigment but I have never had the courage
Egg tempera?
I’ve done it, but with egg tempera, you mix pigment with water and only add the egg (yolk only) when painting. The egg doesn’t keep without preservatives. Lots of goods books out there.
I started using zecchi paints after you recommended them two years back! :D
Hii, please allow me to ask this maybe stupid question - can any of these be used as pigment a. fine clay b. cement c. lime/slaked lime. I am not worried about the color.
CORDIAL SALUDOS Y BENDICIONES
MUY BUENA SU EXPLICACION
UNA PREGUNTA ESE POLVO NATURAL ES EL MISMO POLVO MINERAL?
LO PUEDO ENVASAR EN VIDRIO?
PORQUE TENGO UNOS QUE SON FABRICADOS EN BRASIL, LA MARCA ES BAYCOLOR.
I am going to try this as I love oils but I very sensitive to linseed oil so I am going to try it with poppy oil. Not sure how it will go though, but worth a try if it means being able to paint in oils again! Thanks so much for the advice xxx
I use walnut oil . And it has a slower dry time
@@heffawtf150 thank you so much xxx
interesting videos👍👍👍👍👍so useful, Sir🙏
I wished I watched this before I tried it, I did two mistakes that were hilarious to try and fix. 1. I did not research enough and I believe we have that same red pigment, it separated in the tube like you said! haha I ended up starting over and using pure beeswax (I could not find your recommendation but this worked the difference I could find is that it took away some of the gloss and make it more matte, so if that's something you're looking for)
Second. I hit the cap against the table...and bent it...lol
Subscribing.
Hola saludes! pregunta ¿se podria usar aceite de coco, o canela o romero para mezclar pigmentos? gracias !
Does linseed oil go rancid when mixed in pigment, afterwards? I felt like I heard a guy or two tell me so, but I wanted to ensure. If so, what oils can you use aside from linseed that doesn't go rancid?
But you then mix the paint with your own fixative right?
I could watch just the pigment mixing all day...
Its even better if you go out and the pigment yourself from nature, i know a few artists who get pigments from rocks and earth. Once you learn its addictive.
Do we need the tube or will air tight jars work?
Perfect
I get fustrated with paint being thin on the pigment heavy on the binders.. I am going to do this thank you. My family loves your videos..
Hello, how do you clean the glass plate after? especially after dealing with a toxic pigment like lead white?
I really enjoyed seeing this mixing practice of yours! Thanks for your teaching. BTW, what is a killer music in the background?
Thank You!
"Burn" by Kut and "Reset" by Skygaze
I HAVE A BIGGGGGGGGGGG PROBLEM. Please help me, Cesar. I can´t buy a glass muller and I also can´t sand a piece of glass in this moment. What can I use instead of a glass muller?
That shirt is awesome 👌
very helpful and also pro-consumer ❤️
Which pigment do you use for black and why?
Oh cool thanks I must have missed that info 😀
From where we can buy pigment and empty tubes. Could you give me the website please. Thank you Cesar I love your work. 🙏❤️
odd question can i use a coffee grinder or some kind of electric grinder i have issues with that can break
well, when I heard I´ve been mixing for a couple of hours..." I knew this wasn't for me. :D I work on large abstract so I need to have paint more readily available. But I appreciate your perfectionism.
You really don't need to do that, at least not the vast majority of the time. Most pigments I mix, I see zero improvement beyond like 5 minutes of mulling. If you ground the pigment itself like if you bashed up some ochre from your backyard or charcoal or something, that's when it would take the longest, but any pigment commercially bought is usually very fine already and mixes in very quickly.
@gavinjenkins899 How much final product do you get from mixing 100 grams of dry pigment with the oil you are using?
@@trickyone7171 Different pigments are more or less absorbent, so it depends. But on average maybe roughly 50% oil 50% pigment by volume. Pigment usually weighs more than oil, so maybe like 150g of paint? More if it's lightweight like charcoal for black. Less if it's a heavy mineral pigment like iron oxide (red ochre). You can also fill it out with chalk, it makes the final paint a little bit sparkly which is not good, but some pigments are already a little bit sparkly so for those it works well if it's also a strong pigment.
@@gavinjenkins899 Thank you!
So you used just 4 color only for get the flesh effects?
4 pigments, infinite colors!!
:) Thanks!!!
Hi Cesar! Speakes spanish or portuguese? I love to make my oils too!!! Thank you
Cesar, Why not a stone mortar and pestle?
That's to brake the particles. The slab and muller is to mix the pigments efficiently with oil
Gracias maestro.
Los mejores oleos que he utilizado son los que hice yo mismo en la escuela de arte.Hoy en dia cuando reviso los cuadros que hice como egercicio,la pintura empastada luce petrea,durisima. La pintura hecha por uno mismo es la mejor.
I liked Your video. Thank You! The only thing: some of the pigments, like Azurite and Malachite should not be ground too much and too finely, otherwise their crystalline surface will be destroyed and their colour brilliance, lost.
The empty tubes I use are already open at the cap end, so when I've finished putting in the paint at the rear of the tube. I take the cap off and thump down as you did when filling it, but with the cap side up. This is to burp out any air pockets that may have been closed in when sealing the bottom. I now tend to lightly squeeze the tube to lessen the tube bulging out at the base too much. Sometimes there's a "pop" as air comes out, sometimes not.
It's possible that any small air pockets do no harm. Not providing enough air to cause a bit of drying within the paint*, but I do it anyway for piece of mind. When knocking down with the open cap side up the paint level will tend to drop a little. Naturally all I need to do is lightly squeeze the tube so that the paint level comes back up to the thread top.
* I've only once had a paint tube dry on me when I made a tubed pre-mix of bought paints. Both colours were slow drying, but when I tubed them up together, the pre-mix was rock hard within a month! I believe there must have been a reaction from an added drier added and required for one colour, but unnecessary and undesired for the other. Mixed together, they sped to making a small paper weight.
why dont u use blue??? is it a personal artistic choice or is it cuz blue is harder to make?
what is. medium veneziano? is it the classic beeswax/turp. mixture?
great!
A GOOD WAY TO TUBE PAINTS IS TO GET A PIECE OF WAX PAPER OR DISPOSABLE PALETTE, OUT THE PAINTS ON THE EDGE OF THE PAPER, RAPPED IT UP AND PUT THE EDGE WITH THE PAINT IN THE OPENING OF THE TUBES. THEN TAKE A CYLYINDICAY OBJECT AND ROLLOVER THE WAX PAPER, THE ROLLING WILL SQUEEZE THE PAINT INTO THE TUBE AND THEN TAKE THE PALETTE KNIFE TO SCRAPE THE EXCESS AND PUT IT IN THE TUBE.
Its use linseed oil or others oil ?
brilliant thank you
Does it save money to make your paint ?
Que diferencia hay entre el aceite de linaza prensado en frio y prensado en caliente?
You didn't need binder?
Cesar. Do you use raw linseed oil or boiled linseed oil?
Cold pressed
@@santocesart I'm going to take that as raw then. Thanks!
Can I use pouring oil with pigments
Two stupid questions. 1) What is the best way to clean the glass after grinding. 2) How can you figure out the right of pigment and oil so that you don't have alot of left over paint.
Use filling cone to fill the colour to tube.... Easy