Keep up the laser videos. Your video comparing the thunder laser to the competition is what first got me to research Thunder Lasers. Just ordered my Nova 51 a few weeks ago. Hope Thunder sees this comment and keeps sending you free stuff to review! Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the support, Todd! Means a lot! So glad my original "Why I bought a Thunder" video helped you out! Oh man, a Nova 51... I was seriously considering that one but then I wouldn't have room for much else in my garage shop, lol. Enjoy it! :)
Thanks for the video, just one suggestion. Etch BEFORE you cut it out. The part can move very slightly while etching if it is already cut out and loose. You can actually see the part moving a lot during the 4" test.
Maybe you coverer it, but, are you using the stock air pump for air assist or do you have a air compressor connected for higher pressures? Great comparison
Thanks for the video! Is it possible to etch with the HR lens, switch to the 4" if you're using thick wood? I don't know if the thunder would re-align precisely after the lens change
what is the deal in placing flammable wooden walls in a shop? So you understand sheetrock. Appears you have nice bright lighting (for camera or shop use?) Low subs and they still sent products- great for all Wahta about cutting thru metals? thick AND STEEL VS ALUM SHEET
Nice vid. I’m currently comparing several laser brands so found this as quite useful input. Couple of questions if I may: Q1) what’s an approximate time for changing and refocusing the lens say between the 2” and the HR? Q2) Did you do any thickness test cuts w the HR on thinner materials (say 1/4” and less)? Or is the HR unsuitable for through cuts? TIA Jesse
Hey Jesse! Thanks for the comment! Glad to answer your questions! 1) Swapping the lenses out is super simple - there's a knob on the gantry where the lens slides in and it tightens down on the lens. So taking one out and putting another in takes a matter of 10 seconds or so. Then like you said you have to refocus, but, that's quick too - using a depth gauge, you can change the focus with the z-axis controls on the laser control panel in a matter of seconds too. 2) I've not tried doing any cuts with the HR lens on thinner materials, but I imagine it would work okay for paper or card stock, just not much else. Cheers!
It is expensive, but for high resolution photos at higher contrast, you can use a RF tube, not that I know much about that. I am impressed by the image that you are able to achieve.
This comment actually made me go research RF tubes, I wasn't familiar with them! But it looks like they're 10x the cost of a DC tube (but last 5x longer) so it's a bit of a toss up. I'd be curious to try one some day! Cheers!
On the subject of DPI, the larger the dot size the lower your DPI should be. If you run the DPI higher than the dot size allows you get each line burning slightly over the last, basically destroying the detail in the picture. Print samples in increasingly higher DPI staring from 100dpi with increment of say 50 dpi. Get a USB microscope if you can and then check at which dpi the lines only just touch. Do the test for each of your lenses. Your 2" lens will probably give you more detail at a lower DPI. On a personal note, it's a pleasure looking at closeups of your hands. On so many youtubers and especially laser videos, people haven't cut their nails in months, not to mention the dirt under those nails.
Hi Angie! The only MDF I've cut is a maple veneer / MDF core, 1/4 inch board. It cuts super cleanly and consistently! As much as I normally hate MDF, for laser cutting, you can't deny how nice the edges are and how nice it is to not have the random super dense area of a piece of plywood that refuses to cut through like is sometimes the case with normal layered plywood. I'm sure the Nova 35-80 could cut through at least a half inch piece of MDF but I've yet to try. Hope that helps!
Hey Andrew! I did a bit of pre-processing in Photoshop to enhance contrast in edges and reduce edges and what not. If you'd like, I could do a video on the topic in the future!
@@FarbulousCreations Got ya. I think that's what I'm struggling with at the moment is cleaning up my image. I tired imagR, but I need to watch a few more videos on how to process photos. Definitely a good idea for another video though :)
Haha that was actually rotated the right way! It was a photo of our dog Winnie on her back looking up at the camera, being goofy. Glad you like the comparison!
Hey DeeDee! It won't do stainless steel untreated - no CO2 laser can. You can mark metals, however, with a CO2 laser if you first spray a product called Cermark on it. Otherwise, you'll need to look into getting a Fiber laser in order to etch on stainless steel. If you're etching a painted stainless steel, however, a CO2 laser can "remove" the paint in the areas you etch, thus creating an image. Hope that helps!
Haha that was actually rotated the right way! It was a photo of our dog Winnie on her back looking up at the camera, being goofy. You can see the original photo at 4:58. 😂
Sorry about that, I wasn't sure what results I would find with the different lenses so it was hard to develop a script ahead of time like I'll do with my project videos.
I always look forward to days when your content drops. Thanks for testing and teaching about these different lenses! Great info
Hey Parker, thank you so much for the kind words, that means the world to me! :) Hoping to get more frequent with my posting this year!
Keep up the laser videos. Your video comparing the thunder laser to the competition is what first got me to research Thunder Lasers. Just ordered my Nova 51 a few weeks ago. Hope Thunder sees this comment and keeps sending you free stuff to review! Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the support, Todd! Means a lot! So glad my original "Why I bought a Thunder" video helped you out!
Oh man, a Nova 51... I was seriously considering that one but then I wouldn't have room for much else in my garage shop, lol. Enjoy it! :)
Great job, very helpful for this newbie!
Great to hear, thanks for the feedback! :)
Thanks for the video, just one suggestion. Etch BEFORE you cut it out. The part can move very slightly while etching if it is already cut out and loose. You can actually see the part moving a lot during the 4" test.
Maybe you coverer it, but, are you using the stock air pump for air assist or do you have a air compressor connected for higher pressures? Great comparison
Hi Thanks for the tests and info. For the poplar cuts was that hardwoord or plywood? Would that make a differende on the depth of cut?
Thanks for the video! Is it possible to etch with the HR lens, switch to the 4" if you're using thick wood? I don't know if the thunder would re-align precisely after the lens change
Awesome video, thank you ☺️
You’re very welcome, Yolanda! 😊
what is the deal in placing flammable wooden walls in a shop? So you understand sheetrock. Appears you have nice bright lighting (for camera or shop use?) Low subs and they still sent products- great for all Wahta about cutting thru metals? thick AND STEEL VS ALUM SHEET
Nice vid. I’m currently comparing several laser brands so found this as quite useful input.
Couple of questions if I may:
Q1) what’s an approximate time for changing and refocusing the lens say between the 2” and the HR?
Q2) Did you do any thickness test cuts w the HR on thinner materials (say 1/4” and less)? Or is the HR unsuitable for through cuts?
TIA
Jesse
Hey Jesse! Thanks for the comment! Glad to answer your questions!
1) Swapping the lenses out is super simple - there's a knob on the gantry where the lens slides in and it tightens down on the lens. So taking one out and putting another in takes a matter of 10 seconds or so. Then like you said you have to refocus, but, that's quick too - using a depth gauge, you can change the focus with the z-axis controls on the laser control panel in a matter of seconds too.
2) I've not tried doing any cuts with the HR lens on thinner materials, but I imagine it would work okay for paper or card stock, just not much else.
Cheers!
It is expensive, but for high resolution photos at higher contrast, you can use a RF tube, not that I know much about that. I am impressed by the image that you are able to achieve.
This comment actually made me go research RF tubes, I wasn't familiar with them! But it looks like they're 10x the cost of a DC tube (but last 5x longer) so it's a bit of a toss up. I'd be curious to try one some day! Cheers!
On the subject of DPI, the larger the dot size the lower your DPI should be. If you run the DPI higher than the dot size allows you get each line burning slightly over the last, basically destroying the detail in the picture. Print samples in increasingly higher DPI staring from 100dpi with increment of say 50 dpi. Get a USB microscope if you can and then check at which dpi the lines only just touch. Do the test for each of your lenses. Your 2" lens will probably give you more detail at a lower DPI. On a personal note, it's a pleasure looking at closeups of your hands. On so many youtubers and especially laser videos, people haven't cut their nails in months, not to mention the dirt under those nails.
Focus point with the HR lens for best results?
Hey Ed! It's tight! Only 2-3 mm away from the material. Makes me a wee uncomfortable focusing that close, but that's where the focal plane is! Cheers!
Thanks for the tests and useful results. Have you done any test cutting on MDF and what were the results?
Hi Angie! The only MDF I've cut is a maple veneer / MDF core, 1/4 inch board. It cuts super cleanly and consistently! As much as I normally hate MDF, for laser cutting, you can't deny how nice the edges are and how nice it is to not have the random super dense area of a piece of plywood that refuses to cut through like is sometimes the case with normal layered plywood.
I'm sure the Nova 35-80 could cut through at least a half inch piece of MDF but I've yet to try. Hope that helps!
Great video. Have you used the camera for the Nova 35?
Thanks Nancie! I have! I did a video (after this one) where I set it up to work wirelessly - a bit complicated of a setup but worth it! 😊
Have you worked with thicker acrylics? 3/8? 1/4?
I have worked with 1/4 inch, but not 3/8". 1/4" works just fine on the Thunder! 😊 I'm sure 3/8" would too, but that might need the 4" lens. Cheers!
How did you get the "laser ready" image?
Hey Andrew! I did a bit of pre-processing in Photoshop to enhance contrast in edges and reduce edges and what not. If you'd like, I could do a video on the topic in the future!
@@FarbulousCreations Got ya. I think that's what I'm struggling with at the moment is cleaning up my image. I tired imagR, but I need to watch a few more videos on how to process photos. Definitely a good idea for another video though :)
How many watts it’s yours machine?
It's an 80 Watt machine! I thought about getting the 100 but didn't want the extra protrusion in the back of the machine.
impressive
Sorry for the slow reply, Robert! Yes, the depth of cuts on the 4" lens is super handy!
Wish you would've rotated the picture up right.
I do like the comparison. Great job
Haha that was actually rotated the right way! It was a photo of our dog Winnie on her back looking up at the camera, being goofy.
Glad you like the comparison!
Basically the HR is an 1" lens?
I think so, though I'm not sure they list the exact focal length of that one.
is there a way to adjust the number of passes?
Yep! in your Lightburn Layer Settings there's a box for "Pass Count" that you can set to any number over 1.
How many watts is the machine?
Hey Jim! I have an 80 Watt Thunder Nova 35.
What focus did u use on the high res lens?
I believe I used 3mm. It needs to be super close to the material. Hope that helps!
Hello could I ask what the wattage of your nova 35 is. Thank you
Hey Clint! Sorry for the delay! I have the Nova 35, 80 Watt model!
Will this laser do a photo on stainless steel with the HR lens?
Hey DeeDee! It won't do stainless steel untreated - no CO2 laser can. You can mark metals, however, with a CO2 laser if you first spray a product called Cermark on it. Otherwise, you'll need to look into getting a Fiber laser in order to etch on stainless steel. If you're etching a painted stainless steel, however, a CO2 laser can "remove" the paint in the areas you etch, thus creating an image. Hope that helps!
@@FarbulousCreations Thank you!
But you can adjust the other lenses for better pictures.
You need a better picture for test
what wattage is your tube?
Hey Barclay! It's an 80W tube. The Nova 35 also comes in a 100W flavor.
🙏
🥳
why do you show the photo upside down?
Haha that was actually rotated the right way! It was a photo of our dog Winnie on her back looking up at the camera, being goofy. You can see the original photo at 4:58. 😂
I asked the same question.
BANDING- CAN SLOWING IT DOWN HELP>
banding is too obvious for a quality product x and y rails resolution or qc vibrations??? WHY WHY WHY
To much rabbiting on ..
Sorry about that, I wasn't sure what results I would find with the different lenses so it was hard to develop a script ahead of time like I'll do with my project videos.