I hope you found this overview helpful! If you have any questions or would like other tips/tricks, just let me know in the comments or join us on Discord.
I believe you are overthinking this. TPU has been formulated for the hobbist in mind with free market filament. You need patience, and this stuff will print you some awesome stuff. Sorry to burden you with information, but I think this might help somewhere down the line. Smiles and hugs, enjoy.
I jumped at this video because I thought it would give some insight into how to work with TPU as I got some yesterday. My generic settings in Cura along with minor changes had me printing flawlessly with my Neptune 3 Pro using a CHT .4mm hardened steel nozzle. I'm also printing in .1 layer height, which a lot of people seem to say is a bad idea for TPU, for whatever reason. Using the CHT, my intent is to make sure that 100% of the filament is the proper temp for layer adhesion for printing at such a small layer height. So far, based on the multiple prints I've done, it works great everytime without needing to change flow rate, temp settings, speed or extraction. Gotta admit, watching videos like this after seeing how easy it was to set up for myself, it makes me believe that something is either very wrong with the printers everyone else uses or everyone is specifically overanalyzing everything. It's a better idea to set it up with stock settings, so how it runs and make changes IF needed from there. For me, if I followed a guide like this, I would be spiraling down a rabbit hole of self induced problems. In reality, stock settings work perfect.
Hi. Thanks for the feedback. Its possible the Neptune handles TPU much better than the ender. Everyone had issues, including myself, with TPU on the ender 3.
@3DPrintscape Are you able to make a video on either the Neptune Printers or a Direct Drive printer using TPU? I see tons of videos about Bowden printers but not much on optimizing TPU with direct drive printers.
With TPU, you need to print slower. Same temps, just add patience and time. Relax, your print isn't going anywhere. Relax , I can't say this enough, just relax. Take your time, you really can't push TPU. Have a good night.
Hi, you have by far the clearest explanation on 3d printing, I have a problem with my new printer, i did try to print by original filament that comes with the printer and it went fine but when i tried several times with TPU filament but did not work, it just injected little bit but started jamming, please help me , thanks
Hi. Thanks for the feedback. It sounds like your nozzle may be a little too close to the build plate. Any extra resistance on TPU filament causes that.
I started printing TPU for the first time today, it's eSUN eTPU-95A, 1, 2 attempt were unsuccessful but third was almost good. I have converted direct drive. printing at 50mm/s. My travel and Fan speed were high and I think those settings were the issues.
Hi Rob. Gday from down under. Thanks for the vids. I always get something from them. Is there a chance you can adjust your lighting or seating position to eliminate those circular reflections in your glasses. :)
Hi. Thanks for the feedback :). Ive tried to play around with lighting but its challenging with glasses. Everything i do ends up have a reflection somewhere lol.
Great video thanks. I recently bought ender 3s1 pro and wondered if these printing settings would differ that much because they dont have the selection for ender 3 s1 in cura and ı needed add it manually. So basically what I am trying to say is that the printing options you showed will work on this printer.
thanks for the suggestion of filament "change" with every print. I experienced exactly what you described...that there will be an apparent jam if you go straight into another print, without first pulling /reinserting the filament followed by some initial extrusion. What retraction/speed do you use ? or none at all ?
I am planning to make TPU phone cases on my Tevo Nereus, could you please advice which filament brand to use and what temperature and other basic settings to use please?
Hi. I personally like the hatchbox filament, its good filament for the price. I would start with the settings covered in this video and print a temp tower to get a better reading for your printer. If you dont want to do that, you can start at about 220 and make adjustments as needed.
Nice helpful video. Hey when you were showing your Cura there, how did you get the help windows to have pictures in them? Like of the infill patterns and such? Mine just has writing. Thanks
Why is sky blue? No but do one on lithophanes, they are a terror to print. Most suggest vertical, but layer lines look awful. Flat, it becomes a bed leveling nightmare. I have the upgraded springs and still suffer from immediate fade. I just had ran a bed level routine, and my 7th attempt at a lithophane failed. Damn SKR board shifted in 2nd layer...
I basically discarded idea of direct drive, but this SKR board is pissing me off, so I may lose Linear advance. So is it worth the extra weight, should I get pancake steppers? I suppose my y axis is glass so ..
Hi. Even without the direct drive conversation the stepper weight is still on the x azis, it just moves it above the hotend. The fram on the Ender 3 pro/v2 is solid, so i haven't had issue. I wouldnt do it on the base ender 3 though.
Sorry not related, discord posted my phone #, no way. Any idea why new marlin bugfix fails on my v422 and v427 boards in ender 3? They just click back and forth. I'm getting replacement SKR board Tuesday so maybe it won't be problem. I've yet to try release versions of marlin...
Hi. Not sure what you mean with discord. The server is set on the second lowest authentication level, which just means you need a verified email. To answer your question, i havent tired to flash the printers firmware in a couple of weeks and the last on i did worked fine. Bugfix lines arent technically a stable release, so its hard to say. When i get some extra time, i will pull the latest firmware and try again.
Printed with TPU the first time yesterday and the the print adhered to the bed so well, it ripped a chunk of the PEI sheet off when removing it, whoops!
The e steps shouldn't change. That just determines how many steps the motor has to make to get a certain length. The flow rate is what you would adjust.
Hi. Thanks for the feedback and I agree that’s what e-steps are. That said, many things can impact how much filament will go though the hotend per turn of the extruder stepper. From what I’ve noticed, that includes adjustments made to the hotend and changing between some filament types. Hotend adjustments impacting the rate much more than the filament. It’s possible it won’t change with TPU though, I didn’t actually try it. I brought it up as something that may be worth checking.
I hope you found this overview helpful! If you have any questions or would like other tips/tricks, just let me know in the comments or join us on Discord.
nope, video was straight trash
@@gingercholo Thanks for the feedback.
I believe you are overthinking this. TPU has been formulated for the hobbist in mind with free market filament. You need patience, and this stuff will print you some awesome stuff. Sorry to burden you with information, but I think this might help somewhere down the line. Smiles and hugs, enjoy.
Thanks Rob followed your settings and my prints are much better infarct I'm well pleased.
You're Welcome
I jumped at this video because I thought it would give some insight into how to work with TPU as I got some yesterday. My generic settings in Cura along with minor changes had me printing flawlessly with my Neptune 3 Pro using a CHT .4mm hardened steel nozzle. I'm also printing in .1 layer height, which a lot of people seem to say is a bad idea for TPU, for whatever reason. Using the CHT, my intent is to make sure that 100% of the filament is the proper temp for layer adhesion for printing at such a small layer height. So far, based on the multiple prints I've done, it works great everytime without needing to change flow rate, temp settings, speed or extraction.
Gotta admit, watching videos like this after seeing how easy it was to set up for myself, it makes me believe that something is either very wrong with the printers everyone else uses or everyone is specifically overanalyzing everything. It's a better idea to set it up with stock settings, so how it runs and make changes IF needed from there. For me, if I followed a guide like this, I would be spiraling down a rabbit hole of self induced problems. In reality, stock settings work perfect.
Hi. Thanks for the feedback. Its possible the Neptune handles TPU much better than the ender. Everyone had issues, including myself, with TPU on the ender 3.
@3DPrintscape Are you able to make a video on either the Neptune Printers or a Direct Drive printer using TPU? I see tons of videos about Bowden printers but not much on optimizing TPU with direct drive printers.
@@Gojira_Wins Sure, i will add that to my list. I dont have any neptune printers but i have a couple direct drive ones i can use.
Thanks for taking the time to film and upload this.
You're Welcome
With TPU, you need to print slower. Same temps, just add patience and time. Relax, your print isn't going anywhere. Relax , I can't say this enough, just relax. Take your time, you really can't push TPU. Have a good night.
Hi. Good advice, thanks.
Hi, you have by far the clearest explanation on 3d printing, I have a problem with my new printer, i did try to print by original filament that comes with the printer and it went fine but when i tried several times with TPU filament but did not work, it just injected little bit but started jamming, please help me , thanks
Hi. Thanks for the feedback. It sounds like your nozzle may be a little too close to the build plate. Any extra resistance on TPU filament causes that.
I started printing TPU for the first time today, it's eSUN eTPU-95A, 1, 2 attempt were unsuccessful but third was almost good. I have converted direct drive. printing at 50mm/s. My travel and Fan speed were high and I think those settings were the issues.
Hi. It could have been the travel speed. If there is any resistance at all in the line, it will clog the line/nozzle and cause the print to fail.
Hi Rob. Gday from down under. Thanks for the vids. I always get something from them. Is there a chance you can adjust your lighting or seating position to eliminate those circular reflections in your glasses. :)
Hi. Thanks for the feedback :). Ive tried to play around with lighting but its challenging with glasses. Everything i do ends up have a reflection somewhere lol.
Great video thanks. I recently bought ender 3s1 pro and wondered if these printing settings would differ that much because they dont have the selection for ender 3 s1 in cura and ı needed add it manually. So basically what I am trying to say is that the printing options you showed will work on this printer.
Hi. I think they will be a good starting point, but you may need to tweak them a little.
@@3DPrintscape thank you for giving a quick response I will try
thanks for the suggestion of filament "change" with every print. I experienced exactly what you described...that there will be an apparent jam if you go straight into another print, without first pulling /reinserting the filament followed by some initial extrusion. What retraction/speed do you use ? or none at all ?
Hi. I didnt change the retraction speed from the cura profile.
I am planning to make TPU phone cases on my Tevo Nereus, could you please advice which filament brand to use and what temperature and other basic settings to use please?
Hi. I personally like the hatchbox filament, its good filament for the price. I would start with the settings covered in this video and print a temp tower to get a better reading for your printer. If you dont want to do that, you can start at about 220 and make adjustments as needed.
@@3DPrintscape thank you so much for the response, also video is very helpful, all settings covered
Nice helpful video. Hey when you were showing your Cura there, how did you get the help windows to have pictures in them? Like of the infill patterns and such? Mine just has writing. Thanks
Hi. Its the settings guide plugin.
I really appreciated your recommendations. Can you give some for my Taz 6? Thanks
Hi. I will need to pick up some TPU filament for the taz. Once i get some, i will do some testing for you.
how did you get dark mode on your cura? i like that!
Hi. Its a setting under "configure cura". I cover it in one of my videos, i think its this one. ruclips.net/video/fOjb43Z7fTQ/видео.html
Marking this when i will get my first tpu roll thx
Cool, you're welcome!
Why is sky blue? No but do one on lithophanes, they are a terror to print. Most suggest vertical, but layer lines look awful. Flat, it becomes a bed leveling nightmare. I have the upgraded springs and still suffer from immediate fade. I just had ran a bed level routine, and my 7th attempt at a lithophane failed. Damn SKR board shifted in 2nd layer...
Hi. I actually have a lithophanes guide coming up soon on my backlog. I have been wanting to do that video for a while now.
I basically discarded idea of direct drive, but this SKR board is pissing me off, so I may lose Linear advance. So is it worth the extra weight, should I get pancake steppers? I suppose my y axis is glass so ..
Hi. Even without the direct drive conversation the stepper weight is still on the x azis, it just moves it above the hotend. The fram on the Ender 3 pro/v2 is solid, so i haven't had issue. I wouldnt do it on the base ender 3 though.
@@3DPrintscape Why wouldn't you upgrade to direct drive on a base ender 3?
@@kylesaric3652 You could, it would basically be the same process.
Sorry not related, discord posted my phone #, no way. Any idea why new marlin bugfix fails on my v422 and v427 boards in ender 3? They just click back and forth. I'm getting replacement SKR board Tuesday so maybe it won't be problem. I've yet to try release versions of marlin...
Hi. Not sure what you mean with discord. The server is set on the second lowest authentication level, which just means you need a verified email. To answer your question, i havent tired to flash the printers firmware in a couple of weeks and the last on i did worked fine. Bugfix lines arent technically a stable release, so its hard to say. When i get some extra time, i will pull the latest firmware and try again.
Any recommendations on how much more I need to move my z-offset?
Hi. I think i had to move mine about .05mm up.
Printed with TPU the first time yesterday and the the print adhered to the bed so well, it ripped a chunk of the PEI sheet off when removing it, whoops!
Hi. I had a similar experience, though i know some people who had adhesion issues, not sure why.
My tpu stick too hard to the build plate Ruining my prints, anyway to prevent that and still get good adhesion
You can try to use a glue stick or something that will make it easier to remove once it cools down.
The e steps shouldn't change. That just determines how many steps the motor has to make to get a certain length. The flow rate is what you would adjust.
Hi. Thanks for the feedback and I agree that’s what e-steps are. That said, many things can impact how much filament will go though the hotend per turn of the extruder stepper. From what I’ve noticed, that includes adjustments made to the hotend and changing between some filament types. Hotend adjustments impacting the rate much more than the filament. It’s possible it won’t change with TPU though, I didn’t actually try it. I brought it up as something that may be worth checking.
This guy likes coasters..
Hi. Meh not really, just printed them for this video :).
Well, can't u just use thicker initial layers? I hate bl touch, I hate z offsets with equal passion.
Hi. You can do it manually, basically you need to have the probe further from the build plate than you would with PLA.
What about retraction?
Hi. I used what i had in my profiles. So, retraction enabled, 6mm distance, 25mm/s speed.
Sigh
Hi. Thanks for the feedback. Was there something missing from the video that you were expecting?