I used recently a lot of ASA filament, nozzle temperature between 240C and 260C and bed between 70 and 105 C. It works very well, even a roll of 270 mm height. I did it on a creality cr-s10 pro, on a creality cr-6 se and on a prusa printer. It sticky very well on the bed, nearly to well. For me, it was as easy to print as PLA, with many advantages of ABS, as higher temperature resistance and UV resistance. More I use it, more I like it.
Im printing at 260c and 100c at 10mm/s in an encloser no cooling fans and the prints look amazing but the layers wont bind and it pulls apart like a knitted sweater.
Did you notice differences with the bed temperatures variations? Planning on buying a printer for my automotive projects, and I have problems deciding between large bed size & 85 C limited bed temperature for 500€ or going for smaller bed size and 100 C+ bed temp for over 1000€ :D I can build an enclosure for the cheaper one (a cabinet in my carage), I think it would help a lot to maintain a steady bed temperature and reduce the cooling effect of any draft from the ventilation, but is it enough for ABS and ASA?
He's not opening people's minds. Everyone knows about asa. Probably 80% of people out there don't need asa in their prints. So why pay double? I use this stuff, but that's because it is required in the things I make. If it wasn't, I'd never use it.
@@dangerous8333 i use alot of abs because its strong but the other reason i havent used ASA and would need to be printing something in an engine bay etc as ASA is twice the price of ABS here in Australia.
@@mashman84 My only thing is that ABS shrinks and i'm making a precise air vent for a car. Do you think it's that much of an issue? ASA is the same price as everything else form what I see for me. what would you rather have?
I am working on a custom led light housing for my car and after reading about the properties of ASA, knew this filament is the right one. After looking closely on my OEM car grille it was made from ASA. I still need to print my final part in ASA, but your video definitely helped me on some specs I will tweak my profile in Cura. Thanks, all the best to you.
@@ModBotArmy gotta build one of those ghetto enclosure you spoke of first haha i was planning on doing it this week anyway more then likely but just another reason to do it
@@dangerous8333 no where near double Unless the only thin youre comparing to is pla in which case if youre using 3d printing for functional things probably not using pla
I needed to print some mount adapters for CCTV outdoor cameras. After deciding ASA was going to be the choice for this project I came across your video. Your video was spot on with settings. I printed on my Qidi X-Plus, which is fully enclosed. Once I got the bed set the three brackets printed out smooth as butter. Thanks a bundle for the time saved.
despite being an older video it still helped as a starting point for printing my Hydra parts for my Mercury 1.1. Trying the settings out now, using an enclosure so I should be good.
I print Futura AppoloX ASA w/ a Ender 3 V2 w/ Microswiss Hotend and Capricorn tube. I don't use an enclosure but use the Cura Draft shield option. It seems to work really well. I print with 255 Nozzle, 100 Bed temp and 20% layer cooling. The only real problem I struggled with is having Z axis layer adhesion. The parts basically acted very brittle and would not flex without breaking. To get past this, I increased layer thickness to 0.8MM (2 wall, 1.6mm thickness) and it seemed to work really well without any real loss of resolution. The only problem this gave me is that it basically created a see-through mess when printing layers on top of infill. However, with my parts, the only key piece seen is the bottom layer so this was not an issue and gave me the toughness I needed. For fan speeds, like I said, I use 20% layer cooling. I hadn't tried greater, but any less would have very awful bridging. I'm sure if I had an upgraded fan that pushed air in all directions, I may have had some better results. As far as fumes, I have this printer running mostly 24/7 in a room with the AC vent shut off and the ceiling fan off. If there are fumes, I don't smell them at all. I'd like to hear more peoples stories with printing with ASA as I feel there has to be better profiles people have setup for z axis layer adhesion.
U don't need to smell fumes to know they are there. Some materials sometimes don't have a specific smell. But the fumes are still there and can harm ur lungs thoe
ASA is pretty incredible. It's an improvement on ABS in virtually every way except price and it stinks less, to boot. I had no luck printing larger ASA models on a glass bed because of warping, but it prints great on the coated spring steel sheets at 100C bed temperature.
Is it similar to ABS in rigidity? I am having issues trying to make a bracket I designed as rigid as possible. I printed with PETG and was surprised at how much flex I get with it. Would ASA be a good choice for something like this?
@@danielstaiger2135 yep, it's as rigid as ABS. When I say ASA's an improvement, it's an iterative improvement--the UV resistance is what sold me on ASA over ABS for outdoor use. And yeah, PETG is very ductile compared to ABS/ASA or even PLA. I've heard that ASA becomes brittle over time in high temperature environments (like cars in the summer), but have not experienced this. If you want the most rigid part, I'd look at carbon fiber nylon or polycarbonate, but those are harder to print.
I needed to use ASA for a Voron Afterburner and it was pretty interesting material but I had some rough learning experiences with it. The hardest thing to get rid of was the extremely rough first few layers that can be seen at 1:17 and very rough top layers. I believe this is a result of ASA being a fairly rigid material and it is being squished too much from overextrusion, overheating, and too close of nozzle to bed. Otherwise, I've ironically avoided every other warning of ASA. I print at 235, bed temp of 60, no enclosure and got beautiful prints but maybe I just got a nice brand or something.
Those "rough first few layers" happen with any filament when your nozzle is too close to the bed. He clearly mentions this in the video and is not specific to ASA.
I have pla parts I spay painted white that have held up in full sun for two new england summers and still look great. I'm sure if they were black or not painted it'd be game over by now, but still I'm impressed. Asa does seem like a better solution though.
That is awesome to hear. Did the paint have something for UV resistance in it? Definitely on my list to visit is different coating methods to see how well parts like PLA or PETG hold up. Only issue right now is how long time wise that would take and the place I am renting doesn’t get hit with to much direct sunlight.
@@ModBotArmy I think it was just your typical krylon enamel spay can. One set of parts are under a heavy compression load and the other are under a light tension. The parts with the tension load have the some warping, but I think that's mostly do to my poor design.
Im currently printing parts on my Ender 3 V2 (DD mod and all copperhead heat break from slice engineering) for Voron 2.4. Im using Formfutura ApolloX and its easy to print.
I have also an E3v2 with sprite pro and used ApolloX but had delamination problems and warping. Pity, because I liked it, was smooth and easy to print, like PLA. Can you post your settings (temps, fan, speed, layers)? Had any accuracy problems? Any warping? Did you print in an enclosure?
This was very helpful. I want to make some interior organization parts for my 4Runner that I don't want to warp in the Texas heat. I'll give ASA a shot!
great simple tutorial, just got a 3d printer ender5 plus, ordered up the micro swiss hot end and some asa made in the USA . building a simple acrylic enclosure as I want to print practical parts
Getting ready to try ASA at home. Im voing to try and print in my garage, as its currently going to be about 90f this week. No enclosure required..lol.😂
@@ModBotArmy in all honesty I have almost the same setup as you, but I print automotive parts all day, my work flow is a glass sheet with buildtack to take out some bed warping from heat with magig per adhesive that and a nice enclosure with a 3mm bed has meant I see no warping or lifting any more
one trick that works great for adhesion that would net you superior holding capabilities for parts that have sharp corners or sections with low area coverage - if you don't want to print a brim, because, well, maybe you don't want to have that tearing edge or want to do as little post processing as possible - you could make a mix of acetone and some of the filament itself, to make your own paste, to which the filament would adhere to. it'll take some practice to get the correct ratio of filament to acetone to get right, otherwise you could end up making a super strong glue that would end up ripping the finish of your bed off. on the other hand, gold PEI is probably the best thing to use, period*
I lova Asa but bed adhesion has always been an issue for me.. I tried with glue sticks, with bed 105 or 110 degrees C, but the only thing that ever works is printing a support raft.. which takes a long time for each print but eventually works.. Maybe I should try hairspray? I am building an enclosure now, it seems to be helping for this...
I’m having problems too, using enclosure and hairspray still warping and coming loose on the bed, it is kind of a challenge but worth it because it prints so beautiful
It should be noted that the v2 has a Max bed temperature of 90 degrees. And some early ender 3 shipped with a non removable bed surface that wasn't capable of withstanding higher temperatures
i just got some asa polylite asa for glass bed i printed at speed 50.0 , and the nozzle temp at 248 on ender 3 pro v1 and it is super slow but silky smooth and the plate is exactly 90c , also note im using a 0.8mm nozzle tip ! i hope this helps poeple !
I upgraded my ender 3 pro to all metal micro-swiss and what a disaster!! The company was helpful but after trying for a couple of weeks I gave up and re-installed the OEM. I've requested a new one so that when I get caught up I'll try it again. However, right now she's printing like a dream again. The only thing I noticed making the biggest difference was a cheap enclosure.
I went and got 2 roles of ASA after watching your video. I also upgraded to a PEI bed and built a cardboard box as an enclosure to my Ender 3v2. But printing a small 30 x 30 mm square I just can't get it to stick. It keeps on curling up on the corners and by layer 5 it just comes loose. I have been printing with a brim but even the brim comes loose. I really do not know what to do. I have found the sweet spot on the first layer height but as soon as the the layers start stacking up the corners curl up and it then comes off the bed. I am using a firm hold hairspray but we do not have that same one you have in the states but this hairspray has worked very well for me when I used to print on glass. Do you have any other suggestions because I have almost given up on printing with ASA until I can afford a fully enclosed printer, Like the Qidi plus 4.
I know I’m 3 years late asking this question . I want to print items to use in an indoor grow environment. I been told PETG is the way to go but now I found out about ASA . The item will be stuck into a pot of soil , wet, damp , humid UV light environment. I see many using PETG when printing hydroponic parts . Do you think ASA is overkill or the proper choice for my needs
I think HIPS is also a really overlooked and underrated filament. It’s big downfall is excessive curling/poor dimensional stability unless you print it in a heated chamber.
HIPS is eventually first used as a support material while printing large complex ABS objects. It is indeed also slightly underestimated in terms of poly-styrene was already used in the '70s as a package filling material. It still is, but High Impact Poly Styrene mixed with a small amount of rubber is a great 3d building material. PEEK is a bit overrated (in my opinion)
I bought 2kg of nice ASA for my helical wind turbine project, but ASA warps like crazy and I was not able to print thin blades. I eventually printed prototype in PLA. After more than year it still holds on well. Another point is the terrible smell of ASA. Not sure if I"'ll ever use that 2kg.
@@dangerous8333 PLA+ is still useless in the sun. ASA is a God-send for me. Especially for an R/C car application (basically any outdoor print applications)
I print with a themperature off 220 °C for the nozzle and 90°C for the heated bed. :-) Works great !! I have a ender 3 S1. Just wanted to know what you set for fan speed :-) My fanspeed at this moment is 177.
220 for ASA? Unless it is a special blend that seems low. How is interlayer adhesion? U have the fan off for ASA, the exception would be bridging or super small parts that may have warping issues due to lack of cooling. In those instance it is still not more that ~25%
@@ModBotArmy I can print at 215 with PETG with my Ender 3 V2 so 🤷♂️ lol, I wouldn't be surprised if you can get away with 220 with ASA; these temps are not a hard and fast rule. I've heard of people printing ABS at 205. As for my PETG layer adhesion, no issues at all - that said, I do slow the print right down...so sub 35mm/s
@@HarmanMotorWorks And I've printed PETG at 205 on my Ender 3 lmao. I was having issues with stringing and oozing, so I kept dropping the temp by 5 degrees until I got all the way down to 205 and it printed fine. I think it also just depends on the brand and quality of filament. Some brands need a higher temp. For instance, I print esun PLA+ at 208, but I print Polymaker PLA at 180-190. And Polymaker PETG is the stuff I got printing at 205. So yeah I think it just depends a lot on the brand.
@@hienamendez6592 well my ender 3 is modded a bit, but I'd say you should get a slice engineering bi-metal heat break and forget about capricorn. You really only need one or the other and capricorn tubing still has its limits. But yes, you can print petg on a stock ender 3, I get best results with the Polymaker PETG at about 220 C which is fine for leaving it stock, but I'd still recommend the bi-metal heat break so the ptfe tubing lasts longer and you'll be able to print hotter filaments like ASA and ABS in the future.
Did the barbecue part hold up? I'm looking to print a part that comes in contact with hot air from an oven and the pla part i printed didn't quite hold up well enough.
I want to pint a caliburn foam blaster out of asa I have the hardware kit coming in the male but all the nerf people on the web say it's a bad idea but I see people use abs I was thinking mostly asa and some petg for colored piece because I could only get asa in black or white where I got the filament from
I'm playing around with ASA on my Vyper currently. I'm having some slight warping issues. Pretty sure it's just because I don't have an enclosure. It's definitely capable though 👍
I am in desperate need of help. I have had nothing but failure now. At first it was warping in one corner every time. Now it dosnt even stick to the glass. Iv used glue and next I’ll try hairspray but idk what I’m doing wrong?
It is a great filament It is looking as a matt pla, but with the high temperature resistance. Have printed a hotend assembly in ASA, it just works! Thanks for sharing 👍😊
That is awesome! I have a hotend Assembly I printed in PET-G but I would much rather have it in ASA for addition strength, rigidity, and heat deflection for higher temp printing :). Hope you had a great weekend!
Does the standard Ender 3 come with a hot bed that goes up to or beyond 100C? Or do you have to buy it separately? What model do you recommend? Which Ender 3 (or 5) model and options do you have/recommend? --newbie
Printing Rc parts with ASA and the same parts in clear PLA premium to test the strength when I'm out bashing my RC truck. I will be definitely testing each ones strength.
I have STL files of balls and bones, I sliced the models and put the gcode on my SD card. How to mod my ender 3v2 so the dog can knock out some toys while I'm out?
How about ASA+cf? Is that any better or should i just stick with pure ASA? Better impact resistance? Oh and is moisture an issue with ASA is it highly hygroscopic
I have a ender 3 im trying to print asa on. I have it in a creality enclosure and im printing at 245c and 100c. If i zip the enclosure up tightly my printer overheats in 3 hours. If i vent it a little to help make it not so hot but still much warmer the part pops of the bed, lol. Any other tricks you can think of other than a new printer or pulling all the electronics to run them outside of the enclosure?
I never had an overheat with the ender enclosure when I used that. I built a wood and i moved the control screen and power supply to the outside. I cut a whole right under the motherboard fan in the bottom and the enclosure it raised to allow it to vent. I also have heat lamps on a dimmer if I need more heat in the chamber. From what I read the power supply is something people say get out of a heated chamber. And from experience if it gets hot enough sometimes the control screen will become unresponsive and freeze.
What are you running for speed? I go hot and slow and have the bottom taped off with foil tape except for around the nozzle. My prints take forever at 30 but so far they're coming out clean. I run my first few layers at 255 then drop to 250c
Do you have to change the part of the printer to print ASA? I have a brand Anycubic kobra Neo printer and I want to print ASA with it, but I don't know if I can or should I change a part?
I'm looking to print lot number signs for a campground I work at. They will have to be screwed to wooden poles or trees. I'm a complete virgin and know nothing about 3d printing. This set up sounds like it might be what I'm looking for? Any thoughts on what I should do? Thank you.
Tried printing it today and could not get it too stick. I'm running an Ender 3 v2 with the standard glass bed. Going to have another crack at it when I get a bit more time. Might then try flipping the glass over and try some glue stick or hair spray.
How's it going at the moment? I just received mine couple days ago, I have yet to put it together. Just wanna use it as a hobby, I'll see how things go lol
@@bgcm1995 I had another go using some hair spray on the textured side of the glass. I successfully printed a bl touch mount using a raft and a draft shield. 240 hot end temp 110 degree bed. Adhesion was fine and the print was free on the bed once it had cooled back down to room temperature. This was without an enclosure. I have built a flat pack cupboard that I am going to use as an enclosure. I also have just received a flexible spring steel pei bed that I will fit when I get back to my printer (I am away working). The printer is going to live in a shed in my backyard as I want to print abs without stinking out the house. I'll also be trying some more ASA prints then. All in all its a great printer. I'm enjoying all the experimentation with different plastics etc.
I am having trouble getting an answer for my question and after watching this video I am wondering if this would be a good choice to print a computer case, I have a plan divided in to about 15 individual parts to be assembled, sanded and painted, Do you think ASA would be suitable? If not what would your suggestion be and Ill go and watch some videos about them. Thanks, If someone answers.
It would definitely work but it may be overkill. As in you don’t need the heat properties which is a huge reason to print with it. If you have an enclosed printer that can print large parts in this material it will definitely work though. Otherwise I would imagine a petg or pla could work. Pla will be stiffer than petg.
Everytime I try to print ASA I can't get it to stick to my bed. Tried different temp for nozzle and bed. Having really hard time making not fail everytime
printing ASA with flashforge creator3 my bed is mirror i using pva glue stick but i find this glue i can put on only with 60 degree. so i find first 2 layers i have 60 degree on bed and then i lift temperature till 80 degree
Would this be the material to use if I want to make a phone holding thingy for my bicycle? Is it bendy enough to get the phone into and out of a thingy like that?
I am right now trying to print ASA and having quite lot problems. One issue I have are the few first 3 mm of the print and I can see on your video 1:20 the same thing. First 3mm are rough. Anyone know how to fix that? What is causing it? Also I saw ASA does not need cooling at all.. well trying that was a disaster :)
i still like carbon fiber nylon with a continuous operating temperature of 350 degrees F and extremely rigid tough.....but it requires upgraded printers....prints at 280 degrees, i have not been able to find a better filament than CF Nylon.......ASA is good but still stands no chance against CF Nylon in toughness/temperature tests....I always strive to see if i can find filaments that are extremely tough and can withstand extreme temperatures and i think ASA comes second in the list.
I have the bed at 90 and the extruder at 250 but my ASA prints refuse to stick making blobs and messes. is there anything I should be doing differently. I have just the stock ender 3 s1. should I be using any adhesive? or maybe I need an enclosure? my room is very small and I keep windows and doors shut while printing but is that really enough to mess with my prints? I haven't tried out the glass bed should I try that?
@@dangerous8333 nice point. Kind of taxed for space. I heard of the enclosure but not the exhaust. The exhaust would have to be lead outside though. Is there a simple way to set up the exhaust without making holes in the house?
Hello, I have a question. I am using Cura and an Ender 3 V2 When the printer made a perfect sticking 3 layers raft he begin printing to high. The layers wont stick the 4th layer. How can I solve this problem? Thanks,
I thought so, until I put some PLA+ parts in the sun...warp city lol. Would not recommend PLA+ for any outdoor applications; even brief exposure causes low infill/thin parts, to begin warping. Quite disappointing
@@ModBotArmy actually I don't but Teaching Tech recently recommended it for automotive parts and he didn't need a enclosure. He uses it in the engine bay. Seems rather impressive. Perhaps you could look into it? I'm not sure if it's just their name for ASA
I have read of people complaining of odor, could you maybe use a small fan to vent the enclosure through a charcoal filter like the people with marijuana grow tents do?
@@ModBotArmy I'm a bit new to 3D printing and only worked with PLA so far. Once the printing is finished, does the plastic ASA still keep a strange smell once cooled? Or is it odourless? Also I only have an apartment with no ability to print anywhere except the kitchen. Is the smell tolerable without much ventilation? Thank you so much. Subbed.
ive had asa for about a year and havent really tried it yet . got into challenging with abs on a stock ender 3 . set the stock hot end to 260deg , and print with a draft shield seems to work ok. going give ASA a go next cheers for the video!!
Just to put it out there,, I clean up my pee eye ? ya know what I mean,,, with a green scrub pad and acetone and then clean off with IPA to get rid of the acetone. ABS sticks too good at 95 (hard to get off) but still have probs delaminating layers up the print at the moment,,, I also dial my extrusion up to bout 120 %, seems stronger print with no blobs etc (stock ender 3 pro with a bath towel rapped around it).
Wauuuuw Very nice, this worx perfectly with my Longer Lk-4Pro, Creality CR-6 SE so - many thanks ModBot !!!!!! ********** Can you pleace put one video for ABS so with Cura Settings?
@@ModBotArmy have eASA (from eSUN) and it always have bubbles , when it's out open.. in addition, having an enclosure complicates stuff, because then, if i understand correctly the internal temperature, needs to exceed the glass transition temp of the material in with ASA that means 80 degrees.
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I used recently a lot of ASA filament, nozzle temperature between 240C and 260C and bed between 70 and 105 C. It works very well, even a roll of 270 mm height. I did it on a creality cr-s10 pro, on a creality cr-6 se and on a prusa printer. It sticky very well on the bed, nearly to well. For me, it was as easy to print as PLA, with many advantages of ABS, as higher temperature resistance and UV resistance. More I use it, more I like it.
How much cooling fan did you use?
Im printing at 260c and 100c at 10mm/s in an encloser no cooling fans and the prints look amazing but the layers wont bind and it pulls apart like a knitted sweater.
Did you notice differences with the bed temperatures variations? Planning on buying a printer for my automotive projects, and I have problems deciding between large bed size & 85 C limited bed temperature for 500€ or going for smaller bed size and 100 C+ bed temp for over 1000€ :D I can build an enclosure for the cheaper one (a cabinet in my carage), I think it would help a lot to maintain a steady bed temperature and reduce the cooling effect of any draft from the ventilation, but is it enough for ABS and ASA?
@@lcarus42 did you ever figure out a fix for this?
@@Gaigebacca no, I gave up on trying asa.
nice, happy you are covering ASA and opening up people's minds to less than standard filaments!
You mean crap rainbow colored PLA?
He's not opening people's minds. Everyone knows about asa. Probably 80% of people out there don't need asa in their prints. So why pay double?
I use this stuff, but that's because it is required in the things I make. If it wasn't, I'd never use it.
@@dangerous8333 i use alot of abs because its strong but the other reason i havent used ASA and would need to be printing something in an engine bay etc as ASA is twice the price of ABS here in Australia.
@Dan Gerous i can get asa as the same price as pla so for me its no proplem
@@mashman84 My only thing is that ABS shrinks and i'm making a precise air vent for a car. Do you think it's that much of an issue? ASA is the same price as everything else form what I see for me. what would you rather have?
I am working on a custom led light housing for my car and after reading about the properties of ASA, knew this filament is the right one. After looking closely on my OEM car grille it was made from ASA. I still need to print my final part in ASA, but your video definitely helped me on some specs I will tweak my profile in Cura. Thanks, all the best to you.
Same
Did you finish that project? Did it withstand the heat?
This is literally the next filament im going to try on my ender 3 pro so thank you for posting this
Awesome! Let me know how it goes :D
@@ModBotArmy gotta build one of those ghetto enclosure you spoke of first haha i was planning on doing it this week anyway more then likely but just another reason to do it
You should only use it if you need it though. It cost double and is unnecessary for most things.
@@dangerous8333 no where near double Unless the only thin youre comparing to is pla in which case if youre using 3d printing for functional things probably not using pla
I needed to print some mount adapters for CCTV outdoor cameras. After deciding ASA was going to be the choice for this project I came across your video. Your video was spot on with settings. I printed on my Qidi X-Plus, which is fully enclosed. Once I got the bed set the three brackets printed out smooth as butter. Thanks a bundle for the time saved.
despite being an older video it still helped as a starting point for printing my Hydra parts for my Mercury 1.1. Trying the settings out now, using an enclosure so I should be good.
I print Futura AppoloX ASA w/ a Ender 3 V2 w/ Microswiss Hotend and Capricorn tube. I don't use an enclosure but use the Cura Draft shield option. It seems to work really well.
I print with 255 Nozzle, 100 Bed temp and 20% layer cooling. The only real problem I struggled with is having Z axis layer adhesion. The parts basically acted very brittle and would not flex without breaking. To get past this, I increased layer thickness to 0.8MM (2 wall, 1.6mm thickness) and it seemed to work really well without any real loss of resolution. The only problem this gave me is that it basically created a see-through mess when printing layers on top of infill. However, with my parts, the only key piece seen is the bottom layer so this was not an issue and gave me the toughness I needed.
For fan speeds, like I said, I use 20% layer cooling. I hadn't tried greater, but any less would have very awful bridging. I'm sure if I had an upgraded fan that pushed air in all directions, I may have had some better results.
As far as fumes, I have this printer running mostly 24/7 in a room with the AC vent shut off and the ceiling fan off. If there are fumes, I don't smell them at all.
I'd like to hear more peoples stories with printing with ASA as I feel there has to be better profiles people have setup for z axis layer adhesion.
U don't need to smell fumes to know they are there. Some materials sometimes don't have a specific smell. But the fumes are still there and can harm ur lungs thoe
Layer height 0.8mm? I didn't know that was possible. What size nozzle are you running?
@@steeki2518how do you even go outside if you are that worried about air quality? Dude, a 3d printer is going to do next to absolute nothing to you
ASA is pretty incredible. It's an improvement on ABS in virtually every way except price and it stinks less, to boot. I had no luck printing larger ASA models on a glass bed because of warping, but it prints great on the coated spring steel sheets at 100C bed temperature.
Is it similar to ABS in rigidity? I am having issues trying to make a bracket I designed as rigid as possible. I printed with PETG and was surprised at how much flex I get with it. Would ASA be a good choice for something like this?
@@danielstaiger2135 yep, it's as rigid as ABS. When I say ASA's an improvement, it's an iterative improvement--the UV resistance is what sold me on ASA over ABS for outdoor use. And yeah, PETG is very ductile compared to ABS/ASA or even PLA. I've heard that ASA becomes brittle over time in high temperature environments (like cars in the summer), but have not experienced this. If you want the most rigid part, I'd look at carbon fiber nylon or polycarbonate, but those are harder to print.
Good stuff. I've been learning about 3d printing for about 5 months. Not sure why I hadn't run across your channel.
Thanks man! I am happy you found me now 😬
@@ModBotArmy Me too
I needed to use ASA for a Voron Afterburner and it was pretty interesting material but I had some rough learning experiences with it.
The hardest thing to get rid of was the extremely rough first few layers that can be seen at 1:17 and very rough top layers. I believe this is a result of ASA being a fairly rigid material and it is being squished too much from overextrusion, overheating, and too close of nozzle to bed.
Otherwise, I've ironically avoided every other warning of ASA. I print at 235, bed temp of 60, no enclosure and got beautiful prints but maybe I just got a nice brand or something.
What brand was it?
Those "rough first few layers" happen with any filament when your nozzle is too close to the bed. He clearly mentions this in the video and is not specific to ASA.
@@ColinWattersright?!? This guy!
I have been using lysol to clean my build pale on my Creality K1 Max with great results. Using stock bilt shett and Glue stick.
I have pla parts I spay painted white that have held up in full sun for two new england summers and still look great. I'm sure if they were black or not painted it'd be game over by now, but still I'm impressed.
Asa does seem like a better solution though.
That is awesome to hear. Did the paint have something for UV resistance in it? Definitely on my list to visit is different coating methods to see how well parts like PLA or PETG hold up. Only issue right now is how long time wise that would take and the place I am renting doesn’t get hit with to much direct sunlight.
@@ModBotArmy I think it was just your typical krylon enamel spay can. One set of parts are under a heavy compression load and the other are under a light tension.
The parts with the tension load have the some warping, but I think that's mostly do to my poor design.
@@iandrake4683 try that inside a car in Spain's summer. 80 degrees inside a car, not even petg will last without deforming
@@alejandroperez5368 true enough. I've never put a print inside.
Greetings from Phoenix. We bake cookies on our dashboard.
Thank you for a great, informative video that answers most questions regarding 3D printing with ASA filament.
Im currently printing parts on my Ender 3 V2 (DD mod and all copperhead heat break from slice engineering) for Voron 2.4. Im using Formfutura ApolloX and its easy to print.
I have also an E3v2 with sprite pro and used ApolloX but had delamination problems and warping. Pity, because I liked it, was smooth and easy to print, like PLA. Can you post your settings (temps, fan, speed, layers)? Had any accuracy problems? Any warping? Did you print in an enclosure?
Melting your PTFE tubing is the least of your concern.. It's the off-gassing in your home from the material.
Off gassing of PTFE or asa?
@@joshuavincent7884 PTFE
Should I be concerned about the toxic fumes from asa? I moved the printer and box to the garage to minimize odors
Yes, its as toxic as abs!
This was very helpful. I want to make some interior organization parts for my 4Runner that I don't want to warp in the Texas heat. I'll give ASA a shot!
great simple tutorial, just got a 3d printer ender5 plus, ordered up the micro swiss hot end and some asa made in the USA . building a simple acrylic enclosure as I want to print practical parts
Nice video bro, so happy for you and proud of you keep it up my boy!
Hey brotha! I hope you are doing good. Thank you very much man I really appreciate it 😬❤️
@@ModBotArmy Everything is good bro, let’s hit up San O soon.
I really wish someone would do a video on ASA and overhangs/bridging. I can't find a single one that helps deal with that pain in the butt.
Getting ready to try ASA at home. Im voing to try and print in my garage, as its currently going to be about 90f this week. No enclosure required..lol.😂
I pretty much print only in ASA, its got the heat resistance and UV resistance I want. My biggest issue with it is the good old bed adhesion
What do you use for bed adhesion that you have found to work the best?
@@ModBotArmy in all honesty I have almost the same setup as you, but I print automotive parts all day, my work flow is a glass sheet with buildtack to take out some bed warping from heat with magig per adhesive that and a nice enclosure with a 3mm bed has meant I see no warping or lifting any more
one trick that works great for adhesion that would net you superior holding capabilities for parts that have sharp corners or sections with low area coverage - if you don't want to print a brim, because, well, maybe you don't want to have that tearing edge or want to do as little post processing as possible - you could make a mix of acetone and some of the filament itself, to make your own paste, to which the filament would adhere to. it'll take some practice to get the correct ratio of filament to acetone to get right, otherwise you could end up making a super strong glue that would end up ripping the finish of your bed off.
on the other hand, gold PEI is probably the best thing to use, period*
I lova Asa but bed adhesion has always been an issue for me.. I tried with glue sticks, with bed 105 or 110 degrees C, but the only thing that ever works is printing a support raft.. which takes a long time for each print but eventually works.. Maybe I should try hairspray? I am building an enclosure now, it seems to be helping for this...
I’m having problems too, using enclosure and hairspray still warping and coming loose on the bed, it is kind of a challenge but worth it because it prints so beautiful
It should be noted that the v2 has a Max bed temperature of 90 degrees. And some early ender 3 shipped with a non removable bed surface that wasn't capable of withstanding higher temperatures
my ender3 v2 bed gets to 105c or 110c
Mine goes to 110. Not sure where you're getting your info.
i just got some asa polylite asa for glass bed i printed at speed 50.0 , and the nozzle temp at 248 on ender 3 pro v1 and it is super slow but silky smooth and the plate is exactly 90c , also note im using a 0.8mm nozzle tip ! i hope this helps poeple !
another note my glass print bed is not that clean but its working very well
Do you use some sort of fume extractor when printing? The fumes given off by ABS and ASA are toxic are they not?
I upgraded my ender 3 pro to all metal micro-swiss and what a disaster!! The company was helpful but after trying for a couple of weeks I gave up and re-installed the OEM. I've requested a new one so that when I get caught up I'll try it again. However, right now she's printing like a dream again. The only thing I noticed making the biggest difference was a cheap enclosure.
I went and got 2 roles of ASA after watching your video. I also upgraded to a PEI bed and built a cardboard box as an enclosure to my Ender 3v2. But printing a small 30 x 30 mm square I just can't get it to stick. It keeps on curling up on the corners and by layer 5 it just comes loose. I have been printing with a brim but even the brim comes loose. I really do not know what to do. I have found the sweet spot on the first layer height but as soon as the the layers start stacking up the corners curl up and it then comes off the bed. I am using a firm hold hairspray but we do not have that same one you have in the states but this hairspray has worked very well for me when I used to print on glass. Do you have any other suggestions because I have almost given up on printing with ASA until I can afford a fully enclosed printer, Like the Qidi plus 4.
I know I’m 3 years late asking this question . I want to print items to use in an indoor grow environment. I been told PETG is the way to go but now I found out about ASA . The item will be stuck into a pot of soil , wet, damp , humid UV light environment. I see many using PETG when printing hydroponic parts . Do you think ASA is overkill or the proper choice for my needs
I think HIPS is also a really overlooked and underrated filament. It’s big downfall is excessive curling/poor dimensional stability unless you print it in a heated chamber.
HIPS is eventually first used as a support material while printing large complex ABS objects. It is indeed also slightly underestimated in terms of poly-styrene was already used in the '70s as a package filling material. It still is, but High Impact Poly Styrene mixed with a small amount of rubber is a great 3d building material. PEEK is a bit overrated (in my opinion)
hey I have a modded ender 3. I love your videos. Your videos are soo underrated. keep up the great videos.
Thanks Drew I really appreciate it 😬👍
I bought 2kg of nice ASA for my helical wind turbine project, but ASA warps like crazy and I was not able to print thin blades. I eventually printed prototype in PLA. After more than year it still holds on well. Another point is the terrible smell of ASA. Not sure if I"'ll ever use that 2kg.
Guess that means you're giving it away :D
Get an enclosure and let the build plate soak for a while to get the chamber temperature up and you will be fine.
Enclosure and an exhaust fan. The end.
Also, pla+ would have been a better choice than pla.
That terrible smell is also poisonous styrene gas to boot!
@@dangerous8333 PLA+ is still useless in the sun. ASA is a God-send for me. Especially for an R/C car application (basically any outdoor print applications)
Hairspray on my PEI has resulted in zero failure of bed adhesion.
I print with a themperature off 220 °C for the nozzle and 90°C for the heated bed. :-) Works great !! I have a ender 3 S1. Just wanted to know what you set for fan speed :-) My fanspeed at this moment is 177.
220 for ASA? Unless it is a special blend that seems low. How is interlayer adhesion? U have the fan off for ASA, the exception would be bridging or super small parts that may have warping issues due to lack of cooling. In those instance it is still not more that ~25%
@@ModBotArmy I can print at 215 with PETG with my Ender 3 V2 so 🤷♂️ lol, I wouldn't be surprised if you can get away with 220 with ASA; these temps are not a hard and fast rule. I've heard of people printing ABS at 205. As for my PETG layer adhesion, no issues at all - that said, I do slow the print right down...so sub 35mm/s
@@HarmanMotorWorks And I've printed PETG at 205 on my Ender 3 lmao. I was having issues with stringing and oozing, so I kept dropping the temp by 5 degrees until I got all the way down to 205 and it printed fine. I think it also just depends on the brand and quality of filament. Some brands need a higher temp. For instance, I print esun PLA+ at 208, but I print Polymaker PLA at 180-190. And Polymaker PETG is the stuff I got printing at 205. So yeah I think it just depends a lot on the brand.
@@danbyler8223 stock ender 3 ??? I just order some polimaker PETG so no need for all metal hotend or Capricorn?
@@hienamendez6592 well my ender 3 is modded a bit, but I'd say you should get a slice engineering bi-metal heat break and forget about capricorn. You really only need one or the other and capricorn tubing still has its limits. But yes, you can print petg on a stock ender 3, I get best results with the Polymaker PETG at about 220 C which is fine for leaving it stock, but I'd still recommend the bi-metal heat break so the ptfe tubing lasts longer and you'll be able to print hotter filaments like ASA and ABS in the future.
Did the barbecue part hold up? I'm looking to print a part that comes in contact with hot air from an oven and the pla part i printed didn't quite hold up well enough.
I want to pint a caliburn foam blaster out of asa I have the hardware kit coming in the male but all the nerf people on the web say it's a bad idea but I see people use abs I was thinking mostly asa and some petg for colored piece because I could only get asa in black or white where I got the filament from
What about the toxic fumes?
Thanks for the video! So any printer that can print ABS can also print ASA (eg: Anycube Vyper/Kobra)? Thank you
I'm playing around with ASA on my Vyper currently. I'm having some slight warping issues. Pretty sure it's just because I don't have an enclosure. It's definitely capable though 👍
Great practical printing Content ! awesome work Sir... Happy Extruding !
Thanks Ron! I hope you are doing well :)
I'm trying to print ASA with my ender 3, using glass base and all metal hotend but the part always comes out of the base. I'll try one more time.
I am in desperate need of help. I have had nothing but failure now. At first it was warping in one corner every time. Now it dosnt even stick to the glass. Iv used glue and next I’ll try hairspray but idk what I’m doing wrong?
It is a great filament
It is looking as a matt pla, but with the high temperature resistance.
Have printed a hotend assembly in ASA, it just works!
Thanks for sharing 👍😊
That is awesome! I have a hotend Assembly I printed in PET-G but I would much rather have it in ASA for addition strength, rigidity, and heat deflection for higher temp printing :).
Hope you had a great weekend!
Does the standard Ender 3 come with a hot bed that goes up to or beyond 100C? Or do you have to buy it separately? What model do you recommend? Which Ender 3 (or 5) model and options do you have/recommend? --newbie
can u use the magnetic bed to print this at 100 Celcius ?
Printing Rc parts with ASA and the same parts in clear PLA premium to test the strength when I'm out bashing my RC truck. I will be definitely testing each ones strength.
I'm not sure what pla premium is but you should use pla+ for that.
Thanks for sharing this video & perspective
I have STL files of balls and bones, I sliced the models and put the gcode on my SD card.
How to mod my ender 3v2 so the dog can knock out some toys while I'm out?
Is there a link to this all metal hot end that you mentioned is a direct drop in?
What is the a good % for infill?
Why replace the whole hotend with an all metal option? Just replace the heatbrake and thermistor.
How about ASA+cf? Is that any better or should i just stick with pure ASA? Better impact resistance? Oh and is moisture an issue with ASA is it highly hygroscopic
If it gasses the same as ABS you need to evacuate the fumes instead of breathing them.
Just stick 2 straws up your nose... huff away.
@@timd9430 it produces carcinogenic fumes, not something to joke around with
@@danzo5521 Smoke from smoking also produces that and people pay to smoke. So?
@@alejandroperez5368 on a scale from 1-200, how stupid are you?
I'm guessing a strong 193 but I'll let you answer
@@alejandroperez5368 Huh?
What a completely illogical statement.
I have a ender 3 im trying to print asa on. I have it in a creality enclosure and im printing at 245c and 100c. If i zip the enclosure up tightly my printer overheats in 3 hours. If i vent it a little to help make it not so hot but still much warmer the part pops of the bed, lol. Any other tricks you can think of other than a new printer or pulling all the electronics to run them outside of the enclosure?
I never had an overheat with the ender enclosure when I used that. I built a wood and i moved the control screen and power supply to the outside. I cut a whole right under the motherboard fan in the bottom and the enclosure it raised to allow it to vent. I also have heat lamps on a dimmer if I need more heat in the chamber. From what I read the power supply is something people say get out of a heated chamber. And from experience if it gets hot enough sometimes the control screen will become unresponsive and freeze.
9:10 was it not from you touching it earlier in the video? 4:53
No issues with layer adhesion around 250c? I usually have to go at 260 or above to get really strong prints in Z
What are you running for speed? I go hot and slow and have the bottom taped off with foil tape except for around the nozzle. My prints take forever at 30 but so far they're coming out clean. I run my first few layers at 255 then drop to 250c
Do you have to change the part of the printer to print ASA? I have a brand Anycubic kobra Neo printer and I want to print ASA with it, but I don't know if I can or should I change a part?
Buying asa now
Please let me know how it goes!!
Make sure you even need it. Otherwise you're wasting your money. Pla+ works for most things.
@@dangerous8333 pla + is too expensive for a print farm. But you're right
@@dangerous8333 PLA+ is useless once it gets some UV on it unfortunately. But otherwise, a great, easy material to prototype indoors with
Which all metal hot end did he recommend? I keep missing it.
Hello to the Toyota owners Fam. I have a Toyota Corolla SE 2019 model. Does ASA fumes like ABS during the printing process??
Woohoo rolla gang! 2014 SE here 😬 yes that is something that it does share with ABS
Didn’t notice it much with the enclosure but for heavy printing I am sure it would fume a bit more.
Got sick from inhaling the ASA fumes
I'm looking to print lot number signs for a campground I work at. They will have to be screwed to wooden poles or trees. I'm a complete virgin and know nothing about 3d printing. This set up sounds like it might be what I'm looking for? Any thoughts on what I should do? Thank you.
Noice, but ASA is toxic is abs? Cheers
Hairspray is great, use it myself. Don't see myself using anything else. Pretty much guaranteed bed adhesion.
Does it do the same good things to your hair?
@@_nom_ I don't use hairspray in my hair. I don't use anything at all.
Hi all, Dos ASA produce toxic vipers like ABS? Is it ok to print in a small space or should I properly ventilate like ABS?
Tried printing it today and could not get it too stick. I'm running an Ender 3 v2 with the standard glass bed. Going to have another crack at it when I get a bit more time. Might then try flipping the glass over and try some glue stick or hair spray.
How's it going at the moment? I just received mine couple days ago, I have yet to put it together. Just wanna use it as a hobby, I'll see how things go lol
@@bgcm1995 I had another go using some hair spray on the textured side of the glass. I successfully printed a bl touch mount using a raft and a draft shield. 240 hot end temp 110 degree bed. Adhesion was fine and the print was free on the bed once it had cooled back down to room temperature. This was without an enclosure. I have built a flat pack cupboard that I am going to use as an enclosure. I also have just received a flexible spring steel pei bed that I will fit when I get back to my printer (I am away working). The printer is going to live in a shed in my backyard as I want to print abs without stinking out the house. I'll also be trying some more ASA prints then. All in all its a great printer. I'm enjoying all the experimentation with different plastics etc.
I am having trouble getting an answer for my question and after watching this video I am wondering if this would be a good choice to print a computer case, I have a plan divided in to about 15 individual parts to be assembled, sanded and painted, Do you think ASA would be suitable? If not what would your suggestion be and Ill go and watch some videos about them.
Thanks, If someone answers.
It would definitely work but it may be overkill. As in you don’t need the heat properties which is a huge reason to print with it. If you have an enclosed printer that can print large parts in this material it will definitely work though. Otherwise I would imagine a petg or pla could work. Pla will be stiffer than petg.
@@ModBotArmy thank you for your reply,
I’ll watch some videos on these two.
I appreciate your reply.
Could you share the info on the metal inserts? Thanks!
Everytime I try to print ASA I can't get it to stick to my bed. Tried different temp for nozzle and bed. Having really hard time making not fail everytime
printing ASA with flashforge creator3 my bed is mirror i using pva glue stick but i find this glue i can put on only with 60 degree. so i find first 2 layers i have 60 degree on bed and then i lift temperature till 80 degree
Would this be the material to use if I want to make a phone holding thingy for my bicycle? Is it bendy enough to get the phone into and out of a thingy like that?
but the problem with ASA on me is the warping. Any tips for me?
can you place the links of recommended parts?
PolyCarbonate is cheaper and stronger, and food safe. So aside from higher temperatures, It's what I would like to use as a standard material.
I am right now trying to print ASA and having quite lot problems. One issue I have are the few first 3 mm of the print and I can see on your video 1:20 the same thing. First 3mm are rough. Anyone know how to fix that? What is causing it? Also I saw ASA does not need cooling at all.. well trying that was a disaster :)
i still like carbon fiber nylon with a continuous operating temperature of 350 degrees F and extremely rigid tough.....but it requires upgraded printers....prints at 280 degrees, i have not been able to find a better filament than CF Nylon.......ASA is good but still stands no chance against CF Nylon in toughness/temperature tests....I always strive to see if i can find filaments that are extremely tough and can withstand extreme temperatures and i think ASA comes second in the list.
Except for uv ratings
I have the bed at 90 and the extruder at 250 but my ASA prints refuse to stick making blobs and messes. is there anything I should be doing differently. I have just the stock ender 3 s1. should I be using any adhesive? or maybe I need an enclosure? my room is very small and I keep windows and doors shut while printing but is that really enough to mess with my prints? I haven't tried out the glass bed should I try that?
Do you have a standard nozzle or have you upgraded it for asa?
I thought you said the color was "Afri-Kite Gray" but it is actually "Anth-ra-site" or Anthracite Gray.
Its got really good this and that but along with that comes all the carcinogenic fumes which this video and alot of others seems to ignore.
Could you link some sources, I din't find anything about it producing carcinogenic fumes.
@@JM-ix9fn it's styrene and will produce carcinogenic fumes
Abs is bad for formaldehyde
Ever heard of an enclosure and an exhaust fan?
Good grief. You guys are trying to be 3D printers but you can't even figure out basic things like this.
@@dangerous8333 nice point. Kind of taxed for space. I heard of the enclosure but not the exhaust. The exhaust would have to be lead outside though. Is there a simple way to set up the exhaust without making holes in the house?
Hello, I have a question. I am using Cura and an Ender 3 V2 When the printer made a perfect sticking 3 layers raft he begin printing to high. The layers wont stick the 4th layer. How can I solve this problem?
Thanks,
Hey, will you do a reveiw on Poly Lite Asa? Or is there a good reseller that you recomend for poly maker?
I'd say the most underrated filament is pla Plus
I 100% agree. ASA is not underrated, it's just not needed by everyone.
I thought so, until I put some PLA+ parts in the sun...warp city lol. Would not recommend PLA+ for any outdoor applications; even brief exposure causes low infill/thin parts, to begin warping. Quite disappointing
Any experience with this ASA compared to X3D Apollo X?
I actually have not heard of the Apollox filament? Do you have a link?
@@ModBotArmy actually I don't but Teaching Tech recently recommended it for automotive parts and he didn't need a enclosure. He uses it in the engine bay. Seems rather impressive. Perhaps you could look into it? I'm not sure if it's just their name for ASA
@@ModBotArmy ApolloX from FormFutura
I have read of people complaining of odor, could you maybe use a small fan to vent the enclosure through a charcoal filter like the people with marijuana grow tents do?
Yeah that could work. It's more than just an odor, the gasses are a health hazard.
@@LegeFles maybe vent it outside instead then through a cracked window
Very informative video. Can I ask, doesn't your Ender 3 Pro overheat in that enclosure? Is the intake and venting in the Whambam enclosure? Thanks!
Can you print ASA in the anycubic i3 mega s?
Yes, I have a print going well now with 245 E0 / 100 bed, enclosure
What are the fumes like
Read more comments.
What is the shrink rate for asa?
Love this video, thanks!
How's the smell? Is it similar to ABS while printing?
It is similar to ABS. To me it is not quite as bad but it may depend on which type/brand you go with.
@@ModBotArmy I'm a bit new to 3D printing and only worked with PLA so far. Once the printing is finished, does the plastic ASA still keep a strange smell once cooled? Or is it odourless? Also I only have an apartment with no ability to print anywhere except the kitchen. Is the smell tolerable without much ventilation? Thank you so much. Subbed.
Styrene off gassing. Last I heard it's hazardous to your health to breath it. Make sure your room or enclosure is ventilated outside.
Very cool, I want to use it in the future
ive had asa for about a year and havent really tried it yet . got into challenging with abs on a stock ender 3 . set the stock hot end to 260deg , and print with a draft shield seems to work ok. going give ASA a go next cheers for the video!!
Where did you get the metal thread inserts?
McMaster Carr is a good source...if you're US based
Just to put it out there,, I clean up my pee eye ? ya know what I mean,,, with a green scrub pad and acetone and then clean off with IPA to get rid of the acetone.
ABS sticks too good at 95 (hard to get off) but still have probs delaminating layers up the print at the moment,,, I also dial my extrusion up to bout 120 %, seems stronger print with no blobs etc (stock ender 3 pro with a bath towel rapped around it).
Why threaded inserts? Just use through holes and nuts and bolts.
There is video proof of touching the pei plate and then print failure :< good example tbh.
Wauuuuw Very nice, this worx perfectly with my Longer Lk-4Pro, Creality CR-6 SE so - many thanks ModBot !!!!!! **********
Can you pleace put one video for ABS so with Cura Settings?
Nice video 🖖 👍
How can I contact you have a couple nylonX questions
But it's draws moisture, and will require enclosure
Have had very little issues with moisture with ABS and ASA. Not a bad idea still as it can very depending on your climate
@@ModBotArmy have eASA (from eSUN) and it always have bubbles , when it's out open..
in addition, having an enclosure complicates stuff, because then, if i understand correctly the internal temperature, needs to exceed the glass transition temp of the material in with ASA that means 80 degrees.