Dear Chris, This is the 2nd video when you show the same technique, but noone asked a question. What if you are not standing on the ground? I mean you started both video by approaching the anchor and clipping the quickdraw in and you says: you are on belay... How? (in this video: ruclips.net/video/ZS-W-UIiQ-M/видео.html you says you are in safe etc, but how?) I assume you're yelling down your partner to hold you in, so the rope will tight! Am I wrong? This is not clear for me... so if the rope is tight (because your partner holds you) the quickdraw is also in tension, so you cannot lift your quickdraw carabiner up to click the sling in, can you? But okay, step over it, I can use another carabiner next to quickdraw and I can build the master point, clip the carabiner in, and clip the rope in the carabiner (we are now before we do the clove hitch) but if your partner holds you, the rope is still tight! And if its tight its not so easy to pull yourself closer or put a clove hitch on it. So could you please do another video when you simulate what if you are not standing on the ground and you "really" approaching the anchor 100m above the ground 🙂 (or just explain how to imagine this) thanks in advance!
How come you noob guides never show people how to build and anchor out of the rope? Dynamic materials and simplicity are far superior (esp with such a simple anchor as two bolts) than carrying more gear. Its almost like you are breeding dependence on more gear and Guides.
It's done because building an anchor on two bolts off the rope is not more simple than the setup he just demonstrated. Put yourself in the shoes of a beginner and you may understand why guides teach simpler methods to most people. The only extra gear here is a 120cm sling, and a trad leader carrying a 120cm sling is standard kit, not dependence. Block leading also becomes a bit more problematic and cumbersome if using the rope as your anchor. The take away from my response shouldn't be that a rope anchor isn't good (I absolutely love the versatility and ability to improvise so many aspects of the anchor just using rope), but that there are many anchoring methods and having the skills to select the right one for you comes with experience. A person seeking out videos on how to set up a two bolt anchor needs the absolute basics, and often that comes with gear dedicated for the tas
@@tylerlego41 I dunno... he could have gotten to the bolts, clipped in a quickdraw (with BOTH gates facing to the right, since the next lead goes off to the left), and clipped the rope to be on belay, then clipped a carabiner to the second bolt, tied a bowline on a bight (aka atomic knot) with the rope, and clipped one of the two sides of the bowline on a bight to each of the two uppermost carabiners in effect taking himself off belay in the first clip and making it redundant with the second. Done. This requires one quickdraw, one carabiner, and only requires the tying of one knot *which is easily adjusted to center or off-center oneself below the anchor... fewer steps, fewer knots, less gear!
You're dead? You are still on belay by your partner. Your partner can take you of belay when you secured yourself to the anchor, after 3 min or so. So it is perfectly safe
@@jorrr9096 But he teaches the methodology and teaches it completely poorly. There are many better ways to do it without risk, so why doesn't he do it the way it should be done?
This is the best simple anchor set up I've seen. Thanks Chris!
How can u move the quickdraw when your on belay and the weight is down on it to be able to put sling onto???
Have your sling pre installed before you clip the anchor
Thank you for the video
Really trusting everything on a clove hitch? Isnt that bad?
Dear Chris,
This is the 2nd video when you show the same technique, but noone asked a question. What if you are not standing on the ground? I mean you started both video by approaching the anchor and clipping the quickdraw in and you says: you are on belay... How? (in this video: ruclips.net/video/ZS-W-UIiQ-M/видео.html you says you are in safe etc, but how?) I assume you're yelling down your partner to hold you in, so the rope will tight! Am I wrong? This is not clear for me... so if the rope is tight (because your partner holds you) the quickdraw is also in tension, so you cannot lift your quickdraw carabiner up to click the sling in, can you? But okay, step over it, I can use another carabiner next to quickdraw and I can build the master point, clip the carabiner in, and clip the rope in the carabiner (we are now before we do the clove hitch) but if your partner holds you, the rope is still tight! And if its tight its not so easy to pull yourself closer or put a clove hitch on it. So could you please do another video when you simulate what if you are not standing on the ground and you "really" approaching the anchor 100m above the ground 🙂
(or just explain how to imagine this) thanks in advance!
You can use a tether.
Muy mal!!!! Mosquetones de seguridad con rosca para reuniones para evitar que se abran !!!!!!!
How come you noob guides never show people how to build and anchor out of the rope? Dynamic materials and simplicity are far superior (esp with such a simple anchor as two bolts) than carrying more gear. Its almost like you are breeding dependence on more gear and Guides.
It's done because building an anchor on two bolts off the rope is not more simple than the setup he just demonstrated. Put yourself in the shoes of a beginner and you may understand why guides teach simpler methods to most people. The only extra gear here is a 120cm sling, and a trad leader carrying a 120cm sling is standard kit, not dependence. Block leading also becomes a bit more problematic and cumbersome if using the rope as your anchor. The take away from my response shouldn't be that a rope anchor isn't good (I absolutely love the versatility and ability to improvise so many aspects of the anchor just using rope), but that there are many anchoring methods and having the skills to select the right one for you comes with experience. A person seeking out videos on how to set up a two bolt anchor needs the absolute basics, and often that comes with gear dedicated for the tas
@@tylerlego41 I dunno... he could have gotten to the bolts, clipped in a quickdraw (with BOTH gates facing to the right, since the next lead goes off to the left), and clipped the rope to be on belay, then clipped a carabiner to the second bolt, tied a bowline on a bight (aka atomic knot) with the rope, and clipped one of the two sides of the bowline on a bight to each of the two uppermost carabiners in effect taking himself off belay in the first clip and making it redundant with the second. Done.
This requires one quickdraw, one carabiner, and only requires the tying of one knot *which is easily adjusted to center or off-center oneself below the anchor... fewer steps, fewer knots, less gear!
0:56!!! again....totaly bad.... You are dead. Never do this. It is very dangerous.
You're dead? You are still on belay by your partner. Your partner can take you of belay when you secured yourself to the anchor, after 3 min or so. So it is perfectly safe
@@jorrr9096 But he teaches the methodology and teaches it completely poorly. There are many better ways to do it without risk, so why doesn't he do it the way it should be done?