KC Turbos sent me some helpful tips by email that I thought I may as well share with the community: Are you in mexico? What part? Ever come up to AZ? we would be more than happy to check out the truck. Do you have a good number I could reach you at? New parts can still leak... in fact they tend to leak a lot more. We have a lot of guys that bring us down new builds with lots of new parts and just need a little adjustment to get everything to seal up right. First off we don't recommend hooking up the red hose to the turbo wastegate for you 99-03 guys. You can delete the red/green hoses and/or just plug them. Our wastegates are designed to run off of spring pressure alone. Some tuners require a boost fooler so we recommend you asking your tuner if your truck requires a boost fooler or not. If your tune does require a boost fooler then it will pull fuel at higher boost levels until you get the boost fooler installed. It will often throw a check engine light, but not always. If you are reading low boost but the truck has plenty of power, make sure you don't have a boost fooler that is messing with how you are reading boost. If you are pulling your boost signal AFTER the boost fooler then it is not correct and you could be making more boost... but you are reading the "fooled boost levels" Boost and exhaust leaks are the most common. New parts don't mean they won't leak. Sometimes things just don't get lined up right. Sometimes new parts are defective. Please still take the time to thoroughly check for boost/exhaust leaks. Exhaust leaks are a big problem. Bigger turbos will usually make leaks worse. Check the ypipe bellows and the ypipe to turbo connection. Those are very common. An easy way to check it would be to have someone stick the truck in drive, hold the brake, and give it some gas. Push the pedal as hard as you can without causing the truck to move. Look for any smoke coming out from behind the turbo. If you see any smoke then you need to find and fix the leak. It is best to be running a race tune and just MASH the throttle, then when the tire are about to spin let off and try again. You want to produce black smoke if possible because it is easier to see. Watch this video to see how to check for exhaust leaks ruclips.net/video/nOpO4gGS0vc/видео.html The best way to check for boost leaks is to pressurize the system. You can build your own DIY boost leak tester or buy one from companies like dieselsite. You want to pressurize through the inlet of the turbo where the air filter connects. Bring the pressure up to about 25-30psi, be mindful not to let the boost leak detector pop off. Don't worry about the valves overlapping, with these engine you will either have the exhaust or intake valves closed. Listen for leaks and check all connections. For small leaks you can use a spray bottle with soapy water and check all connections. The air will leak slowly past the piston rings, but at 30psi it should take about 45 seconds to leak back down to zero. kcturbos.com/search?type=article%2Cpage%2Cproduct&q=boost*+leak* Watch this video to see how to fix common 7.3 leaks ruclips.net/video/flV24cxn1vY/видео.html Other things to check is to Make sure you are holding fuel pressure at 60-65psi ICP should hold around 3000psi at WOT (IPR should be around 35-50) We have seen lots of issues with the 6637 style filters being too restrictive and can literally suck the intake boot closed. I know everyone online runs them, but thorough testing has shown they are very restrictive and clog up very quickly. We recommend the AFE BHAF, here is a link. kcturbos.com/products/afe-24-91042-pro-5r-bhaf?_pos=1&_sid=6cee20dea&_ss=r
KC TURBOS hey if turbos! I am thinking about getting this same turbo but I was wondering how much power would I gain with just this turbo and a cold air intake, a 4" straight pipe and a pedestal delete ??
So supportive of followers to help out. That huge garage up in Saskatchewan looks to be my kind of "Dream Shop" to work on your Rig. Doing this in a campground in in Mexico, 3000 miles from home would make me a little nervous. But then I realize you know every nut and bolt of Beasty and tools are what you have on hand. Bravo J&K 1000 Thunbs Up
I was looking so forward to you blowing the doors off. I know you 'll get it figured out. Looks like you have lots of help from some knowledgeable folks. Safe travels.
Great job. Watch those egt’s you don’t want them to high. You also have to remember your at 1500 m elevation. Will make a difference when you get back down to sea level. Stay safe happy travels
@@Everlanders yep ...at least 15% oxygen deficiency at 1500m according to missy Siri....dont get caught up in the power chase, you dont need mad boost figures mate, diesels are all about economy, we sacrifice drag strip performance for that and hauling stuff with the grunt of diesels but folks still go chasing power figures, saying that, stage 1 usually gets you a wee boost in hp and a lift in mpg's (but only if your auto gearbox shift points have been adjusted and are taking advantage of the small power increase and shifting a little earlier)...A HOT HAZE CLEAN BURN is where its truly at .......keeps the law off your back too........i've moved away from modern diesels because factory fuel filtration cant match clearances in injectors.....the filtration technology needs upgrading cos i cant afford to remortgage every time i need a set of injectors cos they're clogged with crap that got past the filters but cant get past the pilot needle......nice to see you guys are still doing well......
Everlanders Ah..I see....you can still take advantage of any power increase if you manually shift a little earlier.has it been a gradual increase in exhaust smoke or sudden? Is the diesel quality and water/crap content an issue? Noticed more dirt/drained more water off? With your filter changes?
This may sound crazy at first, but I had a similar problem with my other truck which was a 12v Cummins. I think your turbo may be too big for what your runnin. It's an overlander and not a sled rig. If your not running the timing, injectors, cam and heads to support the RPM's and larger turbo you'll never get the boost your supposed to get. Your current elevation shouldn't matter. Paradoxically stepping down in size so that the turbo is in balanced harmony with the 7.3, you'll get the boost and the smoke should clear. I would call BD and get their turbo or the Garrett 38R turbo. The Garrett BTW will give you up to 40psi.
Great to see you guys safe . also check the inter cooler itself for cracks or leak . I had a Ford diesel years ago and it used to crack along the seam at the end tank once in a while . I would just take if out and get it tig welded .Stay safe and healthy down there .
In the local Ace hardware getting parts to fix my Sisters well and Richie told me about your channel. Spent the afternoon watching old videos. All the best to you from Arkansas!
Had a Dptuner F6 chip on my 7.3,lots of smoke even on 80hp > economy mode< high egt's after some research i bought a Hydra tuner, well what a difference less smoke less egt's,tad more HP, MUCH better gear changes and thats PHP's own tunes,i'm much happier with this chip...
When you delete the butterfly on the exhaust. A 19 mm freeze plug presses in great, also noticed your upper radiator hose goes through the serpentine belt, they make one that goes around the belt, if you notice below your alternator, you will see a half circle mount fir the alternate radiator hose, that way you don’t need to drain the antifreeze to change the serpentine belt, great videos, really making me miss my F550
This Turbo has no butterfly... And when changing a belt you can just drain a liter into a pop bottle and it's below the level of the hose. I've changed that belt twice without issues. If I even need to get a new hose I'll consider the other hose.
@@Everlanders not knowing how old my hose was, and living in northern AK I didn't want to worry about it, the parts store guy asked me which one I wanted, I didn't know there was another option, but after he explained it, it was a no brainier, does yours have the alternate hose bracket under the alternator?
Nice! Better late than never! It all looks so tight under there. It must get hot! After working under my tilted cab the last few days I see now that I have a lot of space under there. I know...I have a smaller turbo, smaller motor, etc., etc...:)
I’m running a KC ball bearing turbo on my 7.3 along with 205/30 hybrid injectors and a Hydra chip with Jelibuilt tunes. (I think Brian Jelich at Jelibuilt has the fastest 7.3 in the US) I had the same problem when I first put it together. It ended up being a tiny crack in the hose going up to the MAP sensor. I put a new hose on and it was all fixed.
Everlanders It’s common for this hose to crack when doing work on your truck like swapping the turbo. It’s a good idea to put a new hose on it even if it’s not the problem. Also check all the thin hard plastic lines and their rubber boots, especially the ones you had to disconnect to swap the turbo. Despite how much air these things pump it only takes the smallest leak to kill your boost. I drive mine around daily (and overland it) in a hot street tune and once the turbo starts to spool up there is hardly any black smoke. Drag tune however will still give you your getaway smoke screen. This turbo is awesome. Once you get this sorted out you are going to love it. Good luck
Just wondering what that Beast of a Turbo Weighs?? Wonder if anyone asked that yet?? Looks and sounds, Heavy. Groan, Ugh, Grrr. Your The Man Jason. Get Er Done
Also near the intake on there is a preheater that greatly restricts the air flow, it only works with the p brake on and temps below -40 you can delete it and have much better airflow
Like the new turbo and silicone pipe. I was interested to see if the new turbo would create more boost which is more air for combustion and should have burned cleaner. Not sure how the boost now compares to before. I got the impression you weren't impressed as you were expecting. It almost looks like your current chip is set to ROLL COAL as the youngins call it. The new chip I bet will help lean it out, lower the smoke, and economize better. Are you sure your injectors are all in good working order? Those can be a problem too. I guess one more possibility is what is the quality of the Mexican fuel. Lots of sulpher, non ULSD? Not refined well? Lots of possibilities. Hope you get things figured out to your satisfaction. Looking forward to a solution video soon and lots of happy faces. Take care...
I'd hoped for higher boost numbers too! 18 - 19psi is about what I was getting on the stock turbo. Another commenter suggests checking that the waste-gate solenoid isn't stuck open, thus dumping the boost. So that's on the list to check. KC Turbo commented below and said that I've got both exhaust and boost leaks... I've tested this before, pressurizing the intake to 25psi with no leaks. I'll have to do it again and make a video for them. The exhaust side leaking I doubt too, I listened with a length of hose and also the EBP (exhaust back pressure) sensor is giving me readings of 32psi, which I doubt it could make if there was a leak. Could be the non ULSD... But that's what this engine was designed to run on in the first place. (And the smoke was the same in Canada and the USA) The hunt continues...
@@Everlanders Perhaps you could rig up a gopro and a light in the engine compartment to observe the waste gate and see if it is functioning properly, see if it is opening and closing. Use the gopro app on your phone to watch the gopro live via bluetooth connection to see if the waste gate is opening closing and determine conditions, speed, boost, rpm, run up, run down. If there was an air or exhaust leak of significance, you'd hear it.
If your running stock AD injectors, tuning is your problem. The stock turbo is good for up to stage one injectors. You can make a boost leak adapter and pressurize your intake system and check for boost leaks.
You're getting a lot of fuel (too much) but not enough boost. If you can see any more than a slightly dark hazing coming from the exhaust pipe, your chip is over fueling the engine. That's results in just wasting fuel and very high combustion flame temps. EGT should not get above 1250. 1300 max. Maybe the waste gate is opening? My 1997, 7.3 gets 28 psi boost in about 4-5 seconds after I stomp it. I installed a Bank Power Pak system on my truck.
Man, the nicest part of that fiberglass front end is not having to crawl over the grille for service. How are you feeling about the 6637 filter? I have one on my 96 7.3 nut im reluctant to delete the airbox on the camper truck not knowing what sort of water circumstances I might encounter. Im feeling guilty posting because you reply so quickly, this happens to be the only time of day I can watch right now so I have to get it out or I'll forget.
I really like the 6637, I've got 3 years out of this one so far, wish I would have brought a spare to Mexico, language barriers are making it hard to find here...
Still looks smokey like you said. Surprised the boost isn't up higher (again, like you said 😋). Is the wastegate solenoid functioning? Also when are y'all doing that live chat???
I'll double-check the wastegate solenoid... It could be stuck open I suppose. The Live Stream was postponed because I forgot last weekend was July 4th - Haven't forgotten it - will do it soon.
Knowing what you do now, would you still go with the 7.3 platform again? We are looking at truck campers and trying to decide on a pre-emissions diesel platform to carry it. Thanks, Rob
Some jobs I love. Changing turbos would never make it though. Couple of observations. As it stands, clearly overfuelling. Guess it's due to the tuning setup as you suggest. Boost pressure.... Maybe go back to the turbo suppliers. You seem rather disappointed with it. Before changing the tuning, get the boost you need. Otherwise you'll need to redo it once the turbo gives the right boost. As an aside, smoke like that would get the attention of the police in Europe.
LOL, no... I just slapped one of our embroidered patches on an old hat I had around. I'd love to get some quality hats going, but it seems that most hat merch hats sells for 25ish bucks each, and that's about what it costs to make them in the low volumes we'd likely move. Further complicated by peoples hat preference, snapback, flexfit XXL XXXL... that's a big outlay for us...
Exactly! More accurately, install boot on turbo the night before and let it relax to the right shape, then squeeze in the turbo, then the boot... I've noticed subsequent boot removals and installations have been very easy...
@@Everlanders Awesome! ill do that. I ordered the same turbo yesterday which is why I was watching your video. Thanks for the advice. By the way I love the petco creeper. Hope I can afford one like that some day 😆
Hi great video! You have boost and exhaust leaks for sure. Shoot us an email and we can give you some further instructions on how to fix them.
KC Turbos sent me some helpful tips by email that I thought I may as well share with the community:
Are you in mexico? What part? Ever come up to AZ? we would be more than happy to check out the truck.
Do you have a good number I could reach you at?
New parts can still leak... in fact they tend to leak a lot more. We have a lot of guys that bring us down new builds with lots of new parts and just need a little adjustment to get everything to seal up right.
First off we don't recommend hooking up the red hose to the turbo wastegate for you 99-03 guys. You can delete the red/green hoses and/or just plug them. Our wastegates are designed to run off of spring pressure alone.
Some tuners require a boost fooler so we recommend you asking your tuner if your truck requires a boost fooler or not. If your tune does require a boost fooler then it will pull fuel at higher boost levels until you get the boost fooler installed. It will often throw a check engine light, but not always.
If you are reading low boost but the truck has plenty of power, make sure you don't have a boost fooler that is messing with how you are reading boost. If you are pulling your boost signal AFTER the boost fooler then it is not correct and you could be making more boost... but you are reading the "fooled boost levels"
Boost and exhaust leaks are the most common. New parts don't mean they won't leak. Sometimes things just don't get lined up right. Sometimes new parts are defective. Please still take the time to thoroughly check for boost/exhaust leaks.
Exhaust leaks are a big problem. Bigger turbos will usually make leaks worse. Check the ypipe bellows and the ypipe to turbo connection. Those are very common. An easy way to check it would be to have someone stick the truck in drive, hold the brake, and give it some gas. Push the pedal as hard as you can without causing the truck to move. Look for any smoke coming out from behind the turbo. If you see any smoke then you need to find and fix the leak. It is best to be running a race tune and just MASH the throttle, then when the tire are about to spin let off and try again. You want to produce black smoke if possible because it is easier to see.
Watch this video to see how to check for exhaust leaks ruclips.net/video/nOpO4gGS0vc/видео.html
The best way to check for boost leaks is to pressurize the system. You can build your own DIY boost leak tester or buy one from companies like dieselsite. You want to pressurize through the inlet of the turbo where the air filter connects. Bring the pressure up to about 25-30psi, be mindful not to let the boost leak detector pop off. Don't worry about the valves overlapping, with these engine you will either have the exhaust or intake valves closed. Listen for leaks and check all connections. For small leaks you can use a spray bottle with soapy water and check all connections. The air will leak slowly past the piston rings, but at 30psi it should take about 45 seconds to leak back down to zero.
kcturbos.com/search?type=article%2Cpage%2Cproduct&q=boost*+leak*
Watch this video to see how to fix common 7.3 leaks ruclips.net/video/flV24cxn1vY/видео.html
Other things to check is to
Make sure you are holding fuel pressure at 60-65psi
ICP should hold around 3000psi at WOT (IPR should be around 35-50)
We have seen lots of issues with the 6637 style filters being too restrictive and can literally suck the intake boot closed. I know everyone online runs them, but thorough testing has shown they are very restrictive and clog up very quickly. We recommend the AFE BHAF, here is a link.
kcturbos.com/products/afe-24-91042-pro-5r-bhaf?_pos=1&_sid=6cee20dea&_ss=r
KC TURBOS hey if turbos! I am thinking about getting this same turbo but I was wondering how much power would I gain with just this turbo and a cold air intake, a 4" straight pipe and a pedestal delete ??
@@javiermarante5344 Depends on what tuner and tunes you are running. But you can expect a very respectable increase
So supportive of followers to help out. That huge garage up in Saskatchewan looks to be my kind of "Dream Shop" to work on your Rig. Doing this in a campground in in Mexico, 3000 miles from home would make me a little nervous. But then I realize you know every nut and bolt of Beasty and tools are what you have on hand. Bravo J&K 1000 Thunbs Up
I was looking so forward to you blowing the doors off. I know you 'll get it figured out. Looks like you have lots of help from some knowledgeable folks. Safe travels.
Thanks Steve, You know me, I don't give up this easy...
Great job. Watch those egt’s you don’t want them to high. You also have to remember your at 1500 m elevation. Will make a difference when you get back down to sea level.
Stay safe happy travels
Yes, EGTs and Elevation, I agree on all counts!
@@Everlanders yep ...at least 15% oxygen deficiency at 1500m according to missy Siri....dont get caught up in the power chase, you dont need mad boost figures mate, diesels are all about economy, we sacrifice drag strip performance for that and hauling stuff with the grunt of diesels but folks still go chasing power figures, saying that, stage 1 usually gets you a wee boost in hp and a lift in mpg's (but only if your auto gearbox shift points have been adjusted and are taking advantage of the small power increase and shifting a little earlier)...A HOT HAZE CLEAN BURN is where its truly at .......keeps the law off your back too........i've moved away from modern diesels because factory fuel filtration cant match clearances in injectors.....the filtration technology needs upgrading cos i cant afford to remortgage every time i need a set of injectors cos they're clogged with crap that got past the filters but cant get past the pilot needle......nice to see you guys are still doing well......
technically not exact as the %age oxygen is the same, its the %age pressure thats falling and the 'willingness' of the air to enter the engine.
We're running a ZF6 manual trans, but yes, I agree on all points. Not chasing boost numbers so much as trying to clean up the smoke...
Everlanders Ah..I see....you can still take advantage of any power increase if you manually shift a little earlier.has it been a gradual increase in exhaust smoke or sudden? Is the diesel quality and water/crap content an issue? Noticed more dirt/drained more water off? With your filter changes?
You're a patient man. You'll get it to work out. Nice turbo unit.
I love my PHP tunes. The tow tunes are awesome.
The response from KC Turbos confirms where my next turbo is coming from when my stock one wears out
This may sound crazy at first, but I had a similar problem with my other truck which was a 12v Cummins. I think your turbo may be too big for what your runnin. It's an overlander and not a sled rig. If your not running the timing, injectors, cam and heads to support the RPM's and larger turbo you'll never get the boost your supposed to get. Your current elevation shouldn't matter. Paradoxically stepping down in size so that the turbo is in balanced harmony with the 7.3, you'll get the boost and the smoke should clear. I would call BD and get their turbo or the Garrett 38R turbo. The Garrett BTW will give you up to 40psi.
Great to see you guys safe . also check the inter cooler itself for cracks or leak . I had a Ford diesel years ago and it used to crack along the seam at the end tank once in a while . I would just take if out and get it tig welded .Stay safe and healthy down there .
Thanks! KC Turbos is sending me a Boost Leak Tester to pressurize the whole system and find any leaks... 👍
In the local Ace hardware getting parts to fix my Sisters well and Richie told me about your channel. Spent the afternoon watching old videos. All the best to you from Arkansas!
Awesome! Say Hi to Richie for me!
Glad to learn that the KC300X replacement turbocharger finally arrived for the 7.3L! Love the tip-o-the-hat to Vice Grip Garage!
Dude that turbo is bad ass. My friend does turbo stuff with his diesel truck qnd his 300z car both. Its all way over my head but man its cool
Turbo blanket will help. Might have a little leak somewhere let it cool and retighten clamps.
Great video! Thanks!!
Robot Hand should get his own spin-off channel ;)
thanks bro!
Had a Dptuner F6 chip on my 7.3,lots of smoke even on 80hp > economy mode< high egt's after some research i bought a Hydra tuner, well what a difference less smoke less egt's,tad more HP, MUCH better gear changes and thats PHP's own tunes,i'm much happier with this chip...
Like this: ruclips.net/video/DtTv_4dvJjY/видео.html
When you delete the butterfly on the exhaust. A 19 mm freeze plug presses in great, also noticed your upper radiator hose goes through the serpentine belt, they make one that goes around the belt, if you notice below your alternator, you will see a half circle mount fir the alternate radiator hose, that way you don’t need to drain the antifreeze to change the serpentine belt, great videos, really making me miss my F550
This Turbo has no butterfly... And when changing a belt you can just drain a liter into a pop bottle and it's below the level of the hose. I've changed that belt twice without issues. If I even need to get a new hose I'll consider the other hose.
@@Everlanders not knowing how old my hose was, and living in northern AK I didn't want to worry about it, the parts store guy asked me which one I wanted, I didn't know there was another option, but after he explained it, it was a no brainier, does yours have the alternate hose bracket under the alternator?
Yes
You know what you make it fun so no problem. Thanks
Nice! Better late than never! It all looks so tight under there. It must get hot! After working under my tilted cab the last few days I see now that I have a lot of space under there. I know...I have a smaller turbo, smaller motor, etc., etc...:)
As new to your channel I have to say great videos and love watching them 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I’m running a KC ball bearing turbo on my 7.3 along with 205/30 hybrid injectors and a Hydra chip with Jelibuilt tunes.
(I think Brian Jelich at Jelibuilt has the fastest 7.3 in the US)
I had the same problem when I first put it together. It ended up being a tiny crack in the
hose going up to the MAP sensor. I put a new hose on and it was all fixed.
Great tip on the MAP hose, I am working through all the possible sources of leak in the next couple days...
Everlanders It’s common for this hose to crack when doing work on your truck like swapping the turbo. It’s a good idea to put a new hose on it even if it’s not the problem.
Also check all the thin hard plastic lines and their rubber boots, especially the ones you had to disconnect to swap the turbo. Despite how much air these things pump it
only takes the smallest leak to kill your boost.
I drive mine around daily (and overland it) in a hot street tune and once the turbo starts to spool up there is hardly any black smoke. Drag tune however will still give you your getaway smoke screen.
This turbo is awesome. Once you get this sorted out you are going to love it. Good luck
Remember when you could pop the hood & crawl right in to work on the engine? Long time ago.
1 person on each side and one in front. :-)
Just wondering what that Beast of a Turbo Weighs?? Wonder if anyone asked that yet?? Looks and sounds, Heavy. Groan, Ugh, Grrr. Your The Man Jason. Get Er Done
49lbs!!!
You have to upgrade injectors to see a big change
Awesome the turbo finally showed up. Where is the guy with the pink shorts who helped you out in the last Video?
He had to go back to Austria to attend the 100th anniversary of pink shorts.
Also near the intake on there is a preheater that greatly restricts the air flow, it only works with the p brake on and temps below -40 you can delete it and have much better airflow
We never installed the IAH after the rebuild...
@@Everlanders cool I see now you have your boost connected there
@@nyleluke riffraff diesel sells a plug with a boost hose fitting than goes in place of the aih heater. Cost about$15
That's the one we have...
Like the new turbo and silicone pipe. I was interested to see if the new turbo would create more boost which is more air for combustion and should have burned cleaner. Not sure how the boost now compares to before. I got the impression you weren't impressed as you were expecting. It almost looks like your current chip is set to ROLL COAL as the youngins call it. The new chip I bet will help lean it out, lower the smoke, and economize better. Are you sure your injectors are all in good working order? Those can be a problem too. I guess one more possibility is what is the quality of the Mexican fuel. Lots of sulpher, non ULSD? Not refined well? Lots of possibilities. Hope you get things figured out to your satisfaction. Looking forward to a solution video soon and lots of happy faces. Take care...
I'd hoped for higher boost numbers too! 18 - 19psi is about what I was getting on the stock turbo. Another commenter suggests checking that the waste-gate solenoid isn't stuck open, thus dumping the boost. So that's on the list to check. KC Turbo commented below and said that I've got both exhaust and boost leaks... I've tested this before, pressurizing the intake to 25psi with no leaks. I'll have to do it again and make a video for them. The exhaust side leaking I doubt too, I listened with a length of hose and also the EBP (exhaust back pressure) sensor is giving me readings of 32psi, which I doubt it could make if there was a leak. Could be the non ULSD... But that's what this engine was designed to run on in the first place. (And the smoke was the same in Canada and the USA) The hunt continues...
@@Everlanders Perhaps you could rig up a gopro and a light in the engine compartment to observe the waste gate and see if it is functioning properly, see if it is opening and closing. Use the gopro app on your phone to watch the gopro live via bluetooth connection to see if the waste gate is opening closing and determine conditions, speed, boost, rpm, run up, run down. If there was an air or exhaust leak of significance, you'd hear it.
More Good Stuff - Thanks!
always learning.
If your running stock AD injectors, tuning is your problem. The stock turbo is good for up to stage one injectors. You can make a boost leak adapter and pressurize your intake system and check for boost leaks.
Done and Done!
@@Everlanders did you figure out the leaks?
Yup, ruclips.net/video/DtTv_4dvJjY/видео.html
You're getting a lot of fuel (too much) but not enough boost. If you can see any more than a slightly dark hazing coming from the exhaust pipe, your chip is over fueling the engine. That's results in just wasting fuel and very high combustion flame temps. EGT should not get above 1250. 1300 max.
Maybe the waste gate is opening?
My 1997, 7.3 gets 28 psi boost in about 4-5 seconds after I stomp it. I installed a Bank Power Pak system on my truck.
Nope, it was a cold side boost leak... solved 2 years ago: ruclips.net/video/DtTv_4dvJjY/видео.html
Man, the nicest part of that fiberglass front end is not having to crawl over the grille for service. How are you feeling about the 6637 filter? I have one on my 96 7.3 nut im reluctant to delete the airbox on the camper truck not knowing what sort of water circumstances I might encounter. Im feeling guilty posting because you reply so quickly, this happens to be the only time of day I can watch right now so I have to get it out or I'll forget.
I really like the 6637, I've got 3 years out of this one so far, wish I would have brought a spare to Mexico, language barriers are making it hard to find here...
First! Super happy to see it showed up!
Still looks smokey like you said. Surprised the boost isn't up higher (again, like you said 😋). Is the wastegate solenoid functioning? Also when are y'all doing that live chat???
I'll double-check the wastegate solenoid... It could be stuck open I suppose. The Live Stream was postponed because I forgot last weekend was July 4th - Haven't forgotten it - will do it soon.
@@Everlanders Sweet, looking forward to it!
Nothing better than twin turbos
More fun 👍👍
The waste gate didn't move cause you were pushing it in not out so it would open
When demonstrating things for the camera, perhaps it is lost in moment...
Kc300x 63/73 is a stage 2 and if your not running more than stock injection you will only get max of 20
We are not running stock injection pump or injectors.
@@Everlanders did it eventually turn out to put out more boost?
35 to 40 for the last few years...
@jarenbecker5641
ruclips.net/video/DtTv_4dvJjY/видео.html
Knowing what you do now, would you still go with the 7.3 platform again? We are looking at truck campers and trying to decide on a pre-emissions diesel platform to carry it. Thanks, Rob
Yes, I would. If your considering traveling through Central America then it's an important decision.
You need a boost fooler and you will hit 30 psi easly
After sealing several boost leaks we easily hit 30 psi 👍
Did you upgrade your injectors or use stock
Some jobs I love. Changing turbos would never make it though.
Couple of observations.
As it stands, clearly overfuelling. Guess it's due to the tuning setup as you suggest.
Boost pressure.... Maybe go back to the turbo suppliers. You seem rather disappointed with it.
Before changing the tuning, get the boost you need. Otherwise you'll need to redo it once the turbo gives the right boost.
As an aside, smoke like that would get the attention of the police in Europe.
We're getting pulled over by the police here in Mexico too, I'm really trying to clean up the burn...
@@Everlanders thought they'd be more lenient. Good luck getting it sorted. That level of overfuelling is not good for the engine.
Now it will spool later.
Is that new Merch... if you got snapbacks that fit a huge cranium I want to represent.
LOL, no... I just slapped one of our embroidered patches on an old hat I had around. I'd love to get some quality hats going, but it seems that most hat merch hats sells for 25ish bucks each, and that's about what it costs to make them in the low volumes we'd likely move. Further complicated by peoples hat preference, snapback, flexfit XXL XXXL... that's a big outlay for us...
Unbolt your ypipe to bolt it to the turbo you got a big leak
Are you still running stock injectors? What stage do they call this turbo?
Stage 2 kcturbos.com/products/kc7300-63-73-l99-03
You got an air leak somewhere....
Boost leak for sure.
👏👏👍👍
Does your truck have an air to air intercooler?
Yes indeed!
how much did egts improve?
ruclips.net/video/DtTv_4dvJjY/видео.html
Note to self. Install boot before fitting turbo lol
Exactly! More accurately, install boot on turbo the night before and let it relax to the right shape, then squeeze in the turbo, then the boot... I've noticed subsequent boot removals and installations have been very easy...
@@Everlanders Awesome! ill do that. I ordered the same turbo yesterday which is why I was watching your video. Thanks for the advice. By the way I love the petco creeper. Hope I can afford one like that some day 😆
In that case you might enjoy Turbo Part 2, with 173% more comedy: ruclips.net/video/DtTv_4dvJjY/видео.html
Make a video with Kara rolling coal next time.
Nah, We would rather clean up the smoke and regain the fuel efficiency we had before...
Can I support you on patreon? I cannot find you there.
We won't be using Patreon - You can support the channel right here on RUclips ruclips.net/user/everlandersjoin
How could I get a private message to you folk.
everlanders.com/about-us/
better late then never....
please do patreon
We won't be using Patreon - You can support the channel right here on RUclips ruclips.net/user/everlandersjoin
wastegate moves the other way... so yeah... you wouldn't be able to move it....
You need a blow off valve so it goes Psshhh Psshhh all the time
Diesels don't need blow-off valves, they don't have throttle plates...