Tires, t-plate, wheel nuts, and disc damper are the biggest upgrades to get first. A ball diff would be stage 2, as it does have a considerable amount of tuning needed for it to function properly. The disc damper will calm the rear end, and make it easier to transition into and off the corners.
I went t-plate, rear oil shock, bearing kit, gyro, delrin pinions, set of better tires, and that was all I had to spare. Lol. I figure it'll be a good start.
Just a cool tidbit when you buy the plastic white wheels (which I love cuz theyre lighter than an aluminum wheel) You can change the color easily > go to Walmart and buy RIT dye. Pick your color. Boil Water and add a little dye and mix it up. Turn heat down to medium lowish. Throw your white plastic rims in for about 20mns or so, while stirring 😈 . BOOM > Colored Rims. And ofc you change any color as long as your new color is darker....
So from what I know each chassis runs a narrow configuration or wide configuration or both usually narrow on back and wide on front This is because the back wheel size is usually wider and front wheel is narrow. the offset of the wheel is how much further out the wheels should go to match the body size, offset is in mm so a 2 offset would mean the wheel will stick out 2mm more compared to 0 offset. It tells you on the kyosho page weather your configuration should be wide or narrow on front or back, and what offset wheels are needed for that configuration, there’s 5mm difference between wide and narrow. If you can’t make your body wider you will need to compensate by adding an extra 2.5 offset on each wheel to fit the body. This will only be the case if you want to fit a different body type not recommended for the chassis you have.
When I mention the tire sizing, such as F0, or F2 that is the offset for the wheel. So if you car needs a 2+ offset you would get an F2 Wheel. If it had zero offset you would get an F0 etc.
Jahanzeb khan thank you for your feedback! Please make sure to subscribe. To answer your question, go to the link below and scroll down where all your car details are. For the MC12 see below: search the same but for your NSX. Front Wheel Offset Narrow +1.5mm (for RWD) Rear Wheel Offset Wide +2.5mm (for RWD) R/C System Syncro KT-531P www.kenonhobby.com/Kyosho-Mini-Z-MR03-RWD-McLaren-12C-GT3-2013-White-Ready-Set_p_46022.html Make sure to check if it’s rear mount (RM) or Middle mount (MM) because that can affect the sizing of the offset.
@@formulaz8513 Thanks for the quick! do you know how to find the width of the wheels? it just says F: narrow R: Wide, but looks like tires are coming in all different millimeter sizes...
Jahanzeb khan my pleasure! Yes, so for your car, since it’s a RWD (rear wheel drive) the front will use N (Narrow) tires. For the rear is will be the W (Wide). Now as for the mm size, that’s up to you. Try out the 14mm for the back and some slicks for the front. Remember, if you buy the 14mm tire then you need the 14mm rim. Try these: Rear: www.kenonhobby.com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-KS-M-Compound-14mm-RCP-Radial-Rear-Tire-MEDIUM-2pcs_p_46435.html Front: www.kenonhobby.com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-KS-M-Compound-RCP-Slick-Front-Tire-SOFT-2pcs_p_46067.html Rims For Rear: www.kenonhobby.com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-2WD-Machine-Cut-5-Spoke-Rear-Wheel-R14mm-Black_p_45215.html Make sure to always check the offset sizing, but again if you get a 14mm wide tire make sure to get a 14mm rim to fit it with.
Do you recommend the PN Racing Low Down Knuckles for running on an RCP track? PN has double A arm knuckles but then you have to buy the A Arms as well. I have a new MR03 and within two runs broke the stock knuckle just changing a tire while it was on the car.
Yeah, the devil's in the detail with Mini Z. Apart from the wheel offset, the bodies are also something you have to check before buying. The Kyosho website is actually pretty comprehensive. They even have set up sheets for MR03. I just got a MR03 a few weeks ago and started the upgrade process. So far, I changed the tires, t-plate, motor and batteries. For the motor I run something similar to a PN 50T, could be even fewer turns, not sure. And for batteries I run LiFe 10440 3.2V. I run 2S and 2 dummy so it's only 6.4V, no overloading the ESC. The difference is huge compared to NiMh. The only issues I have so far is spinning out on one side and noisy/slipping gear mesh. Gotta get the PN delrin promatch 7-10 pinions. Not if you've experienced spinning out but the way to solve it is to put shims between the t-plate and motor mount on the opposite side of the spin. So if you spin out right, put them on the left. This twists the chassis and increase tire contact with the ground. I'm still experimenting. I disagree with the LED! It was one of the first things I bought. The LEDs make the car so much better looking. When testing your car just don't connect it. Next upgrade should be front shocks. I see people add disk dampers but not sure which to get or how they really work. Maybe you can get into that in your next videos.
Diamondbac You bring up a great point! I’ll do a video just on body’s and how to make sure you buy the correct one. I will be mounting my oil front shocks and rear disc damper this weekend. I will make a video on it and let you know what I think! In regards to spinning out, i really don’t have that issue right now, especially after running mediums instead of softs in the rear because the softs did not grip enough on the surface I was running (Basement). Pinion change will help it accelerate smoother out of corners, but won’t necessarily stop it from spinning out. You can flip the king pins and create a softer setup for your car, that might help. I’m happy to do a video on that as well. Have a great weekend! Oh and I agree the lights are cool! Just a little annoying hahaha.
HI, My name is Vince I have a question: I would like to order an inexpensive TX and RX for my future Kyosho MR04 EVO 2! Can I use the Kyosho KT531P ? Do you ( or somebody) have a tip for an affordable TX and RX? e.g Vince
Mofoe RC you will need a screw driver but besides that it comes with the tools you need. You can always get better screw driver sets when you start upgrading the car.
this is the reason why they say the difference between men and boys is the price of their toys.. when i said that what came to my mind is my motorcycle ($60k) Then I realize "dam" my cars comes to mind (P100D, 150k+40k of mods omg..) lol... im not even counting the things i do on the side.. whats funny is I dont feel like a man. I feel more like a child if im honest. lol i think i will like this hobby. great video
![[DRAGON BALL LEGENDS REVEALS ＆ STUFF] LEGENDS FESTIVAL 2024 Special Edition Part 1](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/mV5bGIswTtQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Tires, t-plate, wheel nuts, and disc damper are the biggest upgrades to get first. A ball diff would be stage 2, as it does have a considerable amount of tuning needed for it to function properly. The disc damper will calm the rear end, and make it easier to transition into and off the corners.
I went t-plate, rear oil shock, bearing kit, gyro, delrin pinions, set of better tires, and that was all I had to spare. Lol. I figure it'll be a good start.
Just a cool tidbit when you buy the plastic white wheels (which I love cuz theyre lighter than an aluminum wheel) You can change the color easily > go to Walmart and buy RIT dye. Pick your color. Boil Water and add a little dye and mix it up. Turn heat down to medium lowish. Throw your white plastic rims in for about 20mns or so, while stirring 😈 . BOOM > Colored Rims. And ofc you change any color as long as your new color is darker....
I was going to use a sharpie
@@8triagrammer I've used them too. Need a couple 'coats' typically...The metallic colors work awesome
I really like how the king pin flip, new front springs, 30 radials front/ 20 radials rear help the car
Great tips and agree very addicting😎👍
So from what I know each chassis runs a narrow configuration or wide configuration or both usually narrow on back and wide on front This is because the back wheel size is usually wider and front wheel is narrow.
the offset of the wheel is how much further out the wheels should go to match the body size, offset is in mm so a 2 offset would mean the wheel will stick out 2mm more compared to 0 offset.
It tells you on the kyosho page weather your configuration should be wide or narrow on front or back, and what offset wheels are needed for that configuration,
there’s 5mm difference between wide and narrow. If you can’t make your body wider you will need to compensate by adding an extra 2.5 offset on each wheel to fit the body. This will only be the case if you want to fit a different body type not recommended for the chassis you have.
When I mention the tire sizing, such as F0, or F2 that is the offset for the wheel. So if you car needs a 2+ offset you would get an F2 Wheel. If it had zero offset you would get an F0 etc.
This is a great channel thanks fellas
Thank you! I am going to be posting a lot of new content. New updates coming this week!
@@formulaz8513 looking forward to it thank you fellas
Great video. How do you find out what off-set and wheel width you have? I have the McLaren 12C GT3 and
NSX CONCEPT-GT...
Jahanzeb khan thank you for your feedback! Please make sure to subscribe. To answer your question, go to the link below and scroll down where all your car details are. For the MC12 see below: search the same but for your NSX.
Front Wheel Offset Narrow +1.5mm (for RWD)
Rear Wheel Offset Wide +2.5mm (for RWD)
R/C System Syncro KT-531P
www.kenonhobby.com/Kyosho-Mini-Z-MR03-RWD-McLaren-12C-GT3-2013-White-Ready-Set_p_46022.html
Make sure to check if it’s rear mount (RM) or Middle mount (MM) because that can affect the sizing of the offset.
@@formulaz8513 Thanks for the quick! do you know how to find the width of the wheels? it just says F: narrow R: Wide, but looks like tires are coming in all different millimeter sizes...
Jahanzeb khan my pleasure! Yes, so for your car, since it’s a RWD (rear wheel drive) the front will use N (Narrow) tires. For the rear is will be the W (Wide). Now as for the mm size, that’s up to you. Try out the 14mm for the back and some slicks for the front. Remember, if you buy the 14mm tire then you need the 14mm rim.
Try these:
Rear: www.kenonhobby.com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-KS-M-Compound-14mm-RCP-Radial-Rear-Tire-MEDIUM-2pcs_p_46435.html
Front: www.kenonhobby.com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-KS-M-Compound-RCP-Slick-Front-Tire-SOFT-2pcs_p_46067.html
Rims For Rear: www.kenonhobby.com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-2WD-Machine-Cut-5-Spoke-Rear-Wheel-R14mm-Black_p_45215.html
Make sure to always check the offset sizing, but again if you get a 14mm wide tire make sure to get a 14mm rim to fit it with.
@jahanzeb khan How to put them on. Don’t forget to buy your narrow and wide double sided tape!
ruclips.net/video/EiG9fICobhE/видео.html
How to put them on. Don’t forget to buy your narrow and wide double sided tape!
ruclips.net/video/EiG9fICobhE/видео.html
Have you guys tried the mini-z gyro units? Would love to see a video on that
Chris Stoddart it will happen for sure!
Its my understanding that theyre 100% worth it. I grabbed one straight off, we'll see when it all arrives.
Hey bro I love these Kyosho mini z cars and I wants to get started but I don’t know what type of car to get
@That2jzSupra I want a awd
Can you guys make a video on how to change the rx esc unit for a mr03 rwd?
Do you recommend the PN Racing Low Down Knuckles for running on an RCP track? PN has double A arm knuckles but then you have to buy the A Arms as well. I have a new MR03 and within two runs broke the stock knuckle just changing a tire while it was on the car.
Yeah, the devil's in the detail with Mini Z. Apart from the wheel offset, the bodies are also something you have to check before buying. The Kyosho website is actually pretty comprehensive. They even have set up sheets for MR03.
I just got a MR03 a few weeks ago and started the upgrade process. So far, I changed the tires, t-plate, motor and batteries. For the motor I run something similar to a PN 50T, could be even fewer turns, not sure. And for batteries I run LiFe 10440 3.2V. I run 2S and 2 dummy so it's only 6.4V, no overloading the ESC. The difference is huge compared to NiMh.
The only issues I have so far is spinning out on one side and noisy/slipping gear mesh. Gotta get the PN delrin promatch 7-10 pinions. Not if you've experienced spinning out but the way to solve it is to put shims between the t-plate and motor mount on the opposite side of the spin. So if you spin out right, put them on the left. This twists the chassis and increase tire contact with the ground. I'm still experimenting.
I disagree with the LED! It was one of the first things I bought. The LEDs make the car so much better looking. When testing your car just don't connect it.
Next upgrade should be front shocks. I see people add disk dampers but not sure which to get or how they really work. Maybe you can get into that in your next videos.
Diamondbac You bring up a great point! I’ll do a video just on body’s and how to make sure you buy the correct one. I will be mounting my oil front shocks and rear disc damper this weekend. I will make a video on it and let you know what I think! In regards to spinning out, i really don’t have that issue right now, especially after running mediums instead of softs in the rear because the softs did not grip enough on the surface I was running (Basement). Pinion change will help it accelerate smoother out of corners, but won’t necessarily stop it from spinning out. You can flip the king pins and create a softer setup for your car, that might help. I’m happy to do a video on that as well.
Have a great weekend! Oh and I agree the lights are cool! Just a little annoying hahaha.
HI,
My name is Vince
I have a question:
I would like to order an inexpensive TX and RX for my future Kyosho MR04 EVO 2! Can I use the Kyosho KT531P ? Do you ( or somebody) have a tip for an affordable TX and RX?
e.g
Vince
what is the website for the parts?
Is that the rwd one ??
Very first thing is tires
What was the website?
do you need special tools to work on these?
Mofoe RC you will need a screw driver but besides that it comes with the tools you need. You can always get better screw driver sets when you start upgrading the car.
this is the reason why they say the difference between men and boys is the price of their toys.. when i said that what came to my mind is my motorcycle ($60k) Then I realize "dam" my cars comes to mind (P100D, 150k+40k of mods omg..) lol... im not even counting the things i do on the side.. whats funny is I dont feel like a man. I feel more like a child if im honest. lol i think i will like this hobby. great video