In all pistol calibers, I adjust seating depth while shooting at the rifle range by varying seating depth in .005 increments, get ready for the shock of your life. I only roll crimp on heavy recoiling loads, with more accuracy obtained using taper crimp die.
Thankyou I finally had someone show me how to seat my cast boolits for my 9mm . And I was pulling my hair out well what I have left lol As you can probably see im new to reloading thankyou again also all your info on powdercoating.
One other aspect of the twin crimp grooves is that it allows you to set the overall length for the best feeding in a particular gun. When Lee introduced the C430-310-RF and the C452-300-RF, I thought they’d be the perfect heavies for my 44 B92 and 45 R92. When they arrived, I cast and lubrisized a batch of each and loaded them up. I seated them in the rear crimp groove because I was leery of decreasing the powder space, but neither load would cycle through my carbines. Luckily, I’d only loaded a few proof-of-concept rounds. At first I was discouraged, envisioning single-loading the rounds in the leverguns or other rifles, or having to use them in revolvers. I considered trading the molds away. Then I loaded a few using the front groove for a couple of revolvers. My next range day, I happened to pack the revolvers and the carbines along, and discovered that the shorter rounds fed perfectly in both carbines as well as in a 44 Handi, a DeerStalker and even in the very short magazine of a 788. As a bonus, I was able to work up very accurate loads for all the rifles, and “ambidextrous” loads that are at home in same-caliber carbine/revolver partnerships.
I would just like to thank you for the time and all the effort you take to make your very informative videos, Your videos have taught me more on the subject of firearms and reloading than any college or school could, and me being a old Marine i have seen a few. Semper Fi
Thank you very much for this very informative video. For some reason this seem to be an overlooked point in the library that I have and your experience is much appreciated! You are very kind to produce the videos that help those out that don't have your vast knowledge. Sure wished that you lived next door to me!
Thank you so much for the many GREAT video's!! A bit new to reloading overall and I just started loading for .45 ACP. This video cleared up a point of confusion I had about semi-wadcutter seating depth.
If you have load data that calls for 1.600 OAL but to get to the crimp groove the bullet would need to be seated to 1.575 OAL, what affect would seating the bullet .015" deeper have on pressure?
My question exactly. I dont feel comfortable just seating to the groove by default. Different recipes call for different lengths from what I've seen. I'm new and just trying to figure this all out.
I wanted to say thank you for all your videos! You are a wealth of information and have helped me tremendously in leaning to cast bullets. Keep the videos coming!
Upper half. It the groove has a taper, seat it in the upper half of the groove, then when applying the roll crimp, set the seating stem to finish seating the edge of the case mouth to within a couple thousandths of the front of the groove as the crimp happens. Don’t dig the mouth into the bullet or you might bulge the crimp, causing difficult chambering.
Good video. I still havne't had a need to do a taper crimp and still don't understand the difference between a taper and a roll crimp. I asked Lee in an email if their Factory Crimp Dies were taper or roll. I got a one word answer. Roll.
+gapster46 -- Actually not the answer. Lee FCCDs are roll crimp for revolver rounds and taper crimp for auto pistol calibers. That is appropriate as the roll will not work for auto pistols - however, taper crimp can work for both, but roll is needed for the heavy kicking magnums. Roll crimp bends the mouth into a crimping groove to crimp; taper crimps bring the entire mouth towards the bullet to apply a crimp without losing the contact of the case mouth with the chamber shoulder - if this connection is disturbed, headspace is affected and if badly so, can cause misfires as the impact of firing pin to the primer is cushioned by the round moving forward in the chamber. Have a great day, FC
So, if I started loading .45 ACP, the Lee .45 ACP FCD would automatically be a taper crimping die? To muddy the water a bit, there is a 1911 that shoots the .357 Magnum...
+gapster46 -- Yep, that 45 acp FCD is a taper crimper. And you could use that to crimp for 45 Colt also if you wished (roll crimp would be better). Yes, there are some 1911s that were modified to shoot 38 Spl also. Good reloadin' to ya... FC
I must have asked Lee specifically about the .357 Magnum FCD and that’s why I got the one word “Roll” crimp back. Their web site contact page only lets you see their answer, not what I asked. Thank you for that info. First time I’ve found someone that knows the answer. :) I was thinking of the Coonan .357 Magnum 1911 as the 1911 that shoots the .357 Magnum. There are a few videos on the gun out there.
+gapster46 --After I replied, it occurred to me that you were referencing the Coonan - I've seen one or two of those at the range. The 357 Sig reduced the utility of the Coonan. Sorry to see Lee come back with a one word answer - there is confusion as answers are not that simple as a rule. Always give the customer more for their money or their effort was what I was always taught - a one word answer does not do that. Happy Holidays to ya, FC
I had a seating depth issue with 124 Speer gold dot hp I loaded 500 of them for my Glocks that I've had for year They plunked and spun in the Glocks I got a cz75b and they plunked right at the lands and wouldn't spin so I had to reseat about .004 shorter to accommodate the shorter throat of the cz
wight privilege - Sounds like you have good control of the ogive problem with those Speers, but have found the solution nicely. Continued good shootin' to ya.... Steve
We also need to keep in mind the effects of seating depth and reduction of case volume which in certain situations and certain powders can cause dangerous pressure spikes. Always consult published data! If you are doing some trailblazing with bullets not intended for a given cartridge, we need to keep that in mind! Also lest we forget about compressed charges. As reloaders we also need to keep in mind how seating depth affects accuracy, feeding, and reliability. Sometimes these are variables we need to adjust but again, keeping in mind what it will do with our given powder charge. Good reason tried and true loads in published data are the way to start with till you get accustomed to reloading before stepping out on limbs. Also don't always think that a reduced charge will render experimental loads or published loads safe!
+mytmousemalibu -- Thanks for chiming in on these important points. There's enough subject matter there for eight more videos. I've been checking the NOE site but they are short on the 45 cal molds that I want - about 250-265 grain big meplat bullets PB - 5 cavity so we'll be able to show some output from quality molds. Happy Holidays to ya, FC
FortuneCookie45LC Yes, this is a topic with many, many variables! Pretty good fodder to talk about too! Did you happen to have a look on the NOE forum page for "Group Buy's/Active Inventory Runs" list? Its easy to get one going and if it is a popular design that is out of stock, starting a group buy will fill quickly. I would be happy to add a thread over on Cast Boolits notifying the board of the request for the design and that will breath life into it and get others in on the run much faster. The majority of NOE's business probably originates with the Cast Boolits community. No private info or names gets put on there, just a thread will be generated saying an Active Run request has been started on _____ bullet mold design and a link to the page. People will see that thread and flock over to the NOE forum and put their names in, best way to advertise to get the orders in and get you the mold you want! If you commit to a GB/Inventory Run that's waiting for a run to begin as soon as they get 5 or 10 orders and you will get a discount code for 15% off when NOE runs the order. I'd be happy to help you out and that way you don't need to become a member on Cast Boolits if you didn't want to, I can go over there and put the advertising on the billboard so to speak! You will have to join to NOE forum to generate the request for it. Super easy, no hassles, or personal info, any of that. Its as easy as using the youtube comments section really. Just go to the thread for Group buys, see if one exists already for the one you want, if so, since you would be a member, you reply saying you want this bullet, the number of cavities, PB or GC or combo mold and brass or alum. A moderator will add you to the list and you will be notified when the run starts and process the buy & discount through the store page. If there is no active Group Buy showing, you would click the new thread button, Title it and say what you mold you want, and it will go active for others to start adding in. Let me know if you need to start a new one and i'll add it on CB. Sounds complicated but its not and its much faster to get one going or add yourself to an existing buy-in VS waiting who knows how long for someone to want the mold you do. Many people just wait for someone else to start it and they jump in and many guys just can't resist getting another new mold! Also, you have zero obligation or owe anything. You can make a new buy listing or add your name to one and you can back out at any time if you want and just say. "please take me off the list" and a moderator will do so. People do it all the time. You only pay after the run is made and IF you want the mold. Someone will buy it if you decide not to. I'm in on 2 different active buys for .358 spire point molds for pistols. The big/heavy, big meplat .45 designs go quick because so many guns take .45 bullets. Lot of guys want those heavies for .45LC, .454 Casull, .460 S&W and even more for the 45/70 crowd! I bet there's an active for the ones you want! Get in there and save 15% off that mold!
+mytmousemalibu - I'm going over there to NOE again right now... might be a bad time to spend more on reloading / shooting right now though. I've blown my budget on my latest on-line purchase (you'll see some videos coming up soon on what I got). I want to get my daughter a nice bow sight (over $400) for Christmas and that is going to do in my available discretionary cash for a while. However, if there is a mold I really want, might have to whip out the credit card.... Thanks for your help, might be taking you up on that. Popular molds are popular for a good reason - they are good molds - I want one of those..!! Cast Boolits is a fine community... I'm spending a lot of time on my channel. It's become a part time job... Happy Holidays, FC
FortuneCookie45LC Be happy to help when you're ready! Hope you get you a fine mold that drop 24k Lead boolits! Have you're self a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Another great video, thank you. Curious what load data resource, or any particularly useful ones, that are used for a lead cast flat nose or truncated cast bullets. Perhaps we could use the same powder charge for the weight indicated for lead bullets? Doesn't seating depth change the PSI hardness necessary? Enough to make noticeable leading of the barrel?
Here is a situation I've found myself in due to chambering issues on a 1911 for a round with flat (RF) bullet. It seems for Lee 452-200 gr molds, they have three type of bullets (90697 RF, 90310 SWC, 90379 SWC) which are likely a variety of lengths yet only one 45ACP recipe in their manual for this grain. From what I've been able to gather, my 90697 RF bullets have a length of .5285, and a response on midway mentions 90379 is .69, making the difference .1615. Is it safe to assume a 90697 RF for this same Lee recipe has a min OAL of 1.0635 for that same charge?
Thanks for the videos. My question is on the Lee mold c358-158-swc I have contacted Lee was advised to contact powder manufacturer and never got a true answer for the 38 special oal seated of this bullet. The crimp grove seats this bullet at 1.405 and all data for 158 swc are 1.44 to 1.47 even hodgdon stated this was a little more than they like to see but only advise testing of loads to see how they react. My worry is if there is to much bullet in the case is this going to cause problems that a new bullet caster may not realize. Or are they as you said with other bullet types safe to seat to the crimp grove and stay away from max loads? Thanks again your videos have helped me so much with my starting into reloading.
I'm getting a slight bulge after seating 9mm v-crown bullets. I'm using the Lee carbide set to work on brass. What can I do about this seating bulge issue? Thanks.
Troy R. - Obviously, you are an experienced reloader. These bulge issues are always a matter of degree. I used to get 357 loads that looked like hourglasses in some of my early reloading. If your bullets are bigger than .356", bulges can happen in the 9mm, especially if your size die is on the small side (your Lee dies are probably OK). Are you getting these bulges with regular .355" jacketed bullets? or .356" cast? If not, you might mike those v-crown bullets to see what the diameters of those are. If the bulges are slight and the ammo shoots well, it might still look objectionable to you, but the ammo would be safe and good to shoot providing all the other reloading parameters are OK. Some reloaders told me that the run the round back through the sizer die to iron out the bulges, but if that is done, neck tension on the bullets will be lost from case spring back and bullet swaging. Good reloadin' to ya, FC Steve.
FortuneCookie45LC I'll definitely take those steps to make sure the dimensions are correct. I'm new to reloading and read the lee modern reloading 2nd edition (came with my classic turret press kit) some forums and now watching your videos 👍. Your knowledge and guidance is greatly appreciated.
Such a wealth of knowledge! thank you FortunCcookie 45LC I had a chance to try the Matt's bullets that you did a video on for the 38/357 and the 44 spl/ mag in full wad cutter. What a great shooting bullet. I just bought the Lyman 429421 mold looking forward to making some bullets and loading them.Seating depth and OAL at times can difficult to set correctly you have taken some of the mystery out of it. Thanks! Good Shooting to ya!
Awesome info. I am just starting out in reloading and your videos have helped me understand questions that I thought of as experience builds. I have noticed that my cast bullets never weigh what the advertised grain is. Now add powder coat and the weight changes again. For the starting loads, I try and find the exact bullet in 1 of 4 sources; Hogdons website, Lee Big Book, Lyman reloading book and the chart that came with the Lee Die set. I’m using a lot of pure lead ( roofing lead) right now and the weights are probably inaccurate due to the alloys they measure by. My question to you is: what do you set your starting load by, the actual weight or by the advertised weight of the cast bullets?
I am just finishing up reloading 1500 rounds of .223, I have been buying bullets from Everglades ammo for the past few years....just under 9 cents a bullet, free shipping.
+SomeGuyInSandy I also just bought Sellier & Bellot primers from Cabelas....they are $22.00 / 1000. $10.00 less than all other brands, and do they seat smooth in the brass. Have not shot any yet...Just bought and loaded them yesterday...Reading reviews of these primers they more than likely will be my way to go...
oh forgot to mention I am using a Dillon 650 with Dillon dies. and the bullets I got from extreme bullets. which are definitely smaller than my last batch of 124 grain even in diameter because I almost need no case flare to seat bullet.
Lots of quality information with different bullets, I'll be saving this one to the favorite video links, hope they do the same. Hopefully they will get some good manuals and some case gauges to start out with. The gauges make things nice, easy and safe for newer and experienced hand loaders too.
hello Fc 45lc ,if a load is started , the best and safe way is to use the manual and listed components (and warnings for starting load)for the C.O.L ,because longer col and(to ) little freeflight will get high pressure and with some powders (ballpowders)will do the same, and shorter cartridge lenght (less case volume) can also do the same. and if all pressure signs look right,in little steps start adjusting for max lenght and look for pressure signs Yours peter
what is the grease groove used for on the last bullet. Also the bullets with the 2 black grooves and the copper seal. Do you need separate crimping dies for a roll crimp and taper crimp? Sorry for the questions but you asked ;) thanks.
+Matt Lord - Elmer Keith always wanted generous grease grooves on his bullet designs - that provides lubrication for the bullet going down the bore. Turns out in later studies that the amount of grease was more than needed. The previous bullet had two grease grooves and they are filled with Lyman Moly Lube - it is a grease that is black because of the moly included. If you desire to taper crimp, you need a taper crimp die; if roll crimp, you need a roll crimp die. Roll crimp dies can only roll crimp. Taper only taper. Modern 45 ACP and 45 Colt can shoot the same bullet so a taper crimp die can taper crimp either round. The 45 Colt roll crimp die can also roll crimp the 45 ACP, but no one would do that since that would raise cain with the headspace on the auto pistol. Revolvers headspace on the rims so that the type of crimp makes no difference to the headspace. Hope this helps...please come back if any other questions... Happy Holidays to ya, FC
fc45lc - Thank you for this background information. I just ran across my first plated bullet 240 gr - Flat nose bullet from Berry's Bullets. Thanks again. :-)
L Krueger - Hope they shoot well for you...Plated bullets are cheaper than shooting jacketed, but offer tougher coatings than can be had with lubes or powder coatings. However, cast bullets are even cheaper than plated. Competition shooters like the plated because there is less smoke than shooting cast... Good shootin' to ya, FC Steve
Totally confused right now. Roll crimp / taper crimp / factory crimp. FMJ cast bullets etc. Don't get it it. Please explain again. Thank you in advance.
Hi FC. Having trouble finding your video on finding the lanse ( spelled right? ) On one's rife. I would be using my Henry levergun or shooting 223 / 5.56 from my mini 14.. What is the title of the video? Thanks for Seraphina and I! ( unashamedly big fans )
tjmooremusic - The distance to the lands for a bolt gun is essential to best accuracy as we normally want bullets seated anywhere from .001-.009" from the lands. But with lever guns, the seating depth is dictated by 1) the crimping grooves on cast bullets 2) the cannelures on jacketed bullets 3) seating of the bullet to feed in the gun. Seat according to the loading manual for that particular bullet is a good starting point. With auto rifles and pistols, again, the seating depth for the particular bullet in the reloading manual is a good place to start, but the magazine length is a big factor also. Plus the round has to feed which impacts the OAL as well as the bullet shape. Good reloadin' to ya, FC Steve
Hello fortuneCookie45LC Your information is outstanding. I have a question about 38Sp 158gr copper plated with cannalur If i crimp at this point,min oal falls below what is listed in reloading book Your reply please Thank you john
John Dziegelewski - Your 158 grain copper plated bullet has been designed to be seated in the cannelure. The max OAL listed in the reloading manuals is the max so that your rounds should not be longer. But they can be shorter. Loading deeper than the cannelure is not recommended as deeper seating depth results in higher pressures - if you desire to seat deeper, a powder charge cut to test is good to do. If your OAL is short of the max OAL in the manual, the manuals always recommend starting low and working up powder charges anyway. This is our fundamental for safety allowing for variations in our equipment and procedures. Good reloadin' to ya, FC Steve
hey Fortune Cookie, I am trying to reload some jp 115 grain 9mm. I have been playing with it and no matter what I do or how deep I crimp the bullet is able to turn or spins in the case. is this normal? the last batch of a 1000 rounds crimped and loaded fine and feeds and shoot without fail. It appears that the shinny bullet and my well cleaned and lightly lubed cases may be why they can turn. Do you have an idea? thanks again, Matt
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In all pistol calibers, I adjust seating depth while shooting at the rifle range by varying seating depth in .005 increments, get ready for the shock of your life. I only roll crimp on heavy recoiling loads, with more accuracy obtained using taper crimp die.
Thanks for the video.
Thankyou I finally had someone show me how to seat my cast boolits for my 9mm . And I was pulling my hair out well what I have left lol
As you can probably see im new to reloading thankyou again also all your info on powdercoating.
One other aspect of the twin crimp grooves is that it allows you to set the overall length for the best feeding in a particular gun. When Lee introduced the C430-310-RF and the C452-300-RF, I thought they’d be the perfect heavies for my 44 B92 and 45 R92. When they arrived, I cast and lubrisized a batch of each and loaded them up. I seated them in the rear crimp groove because I was leery of decreasing the powder space, but neither load would cycle through my carbines. Luckily, I’d only loaded a few proof-of-concept rounds. At first I was discouraged, envisioning single-loading the rounds in the leverguns or other rifles, or having to use them in revolvers. I considered trading the molds away. Then I loaded a few using the front groove for a couple of revolvers. My next range day, I happened to pack the revolvers and the carbines along, and discovered that the shorter rounds fed perfectly in both carbines as well as in a 44 Handi, a DeerStalker and even in the very short magazine of a 788. As a bonus, I was able to work up very accurate loads for all the rifles, and “ambidextrous” loads that are at home in same-caliber carbine/revolver partnerships.
You're the best learner in the business!.
I would just like to thank you for the time and all the effort you take to make your very informative videos, Your videos have taught me more on the subject of firearms and reloading than any college or school could, and me being a old Marine i have seen a few. Semper Fi
Thank you very much for this very informative video. For some reason this seem to be an overlooked point in the library that I have and your experience is much appreciated! You are very kind to produce the videos that help those out that don't have your vast knowledge. Sure wished that you lived next door to me!
Thank you so much for the many GREAT video's!! A bit new to reloading overall and I just started loading for .45 ACP. This video cleared up a point of confusion I had about semi-wadcutter seating depth.
If you have load data that calls for 1.600 OAL but to get to the crimp groove the bullet would need to be seated to 1.575 OAL, what affect would seating the bullet .015" deeper have on pressure?
My question exactly. I dont feel comfortable just seating to the groove by default. Different recipes call for different lengths from what I've seen. I'm new and just trying to figure this all out.
I wanted to say thank you for all your videos! You are a wealth of information and have helped me tremendously in leaning to cast bullets. Keep the videos coming!
ZA - Appreciate your remarks a whole passel. What's a passel?? Er...doesn't matter. Have a great day, FC Steve
Hi FC where do you set the case height in reference to lead bullets crimping groove, top edge, middle of bottom?
Upper half. It the groove has a taper, seat it in the upper half of the groove, then when applying the roll crimp, set the seating stem to finish seating the edge of the case mouth to within a couple thousandths of the front of the groove as the crimp happens. Don’t dig the mouth into the bullet or you might bulge the crimp, causing difficult chambering.
Good video. I still havne't had a need to do a taper crimp and still don't understand the difference between a taper and a roll crimp. I asked Lee in an email if their Factory Crimp Dies were taper or roll. I got a one word answer. Roll.
+gapster46 -- Actually not the answer. Lee FCCDs are roll crimp for revolver rounds and taper crimp for auto pistol calibers. That is appropriate as the roll will not work for auto pistols - however, taper crimp can work for both, but roll is needed for the heavy kicking magnums. Roll crimp bends the mouth into a crimping groove to crimp; taper crimps bring the entire mouth towards the bullet to apply a crimp without losing the contact of the case mouth with the chamber shoulder - if this connection is disturbed, headspace is affected and if badly so, can cause misfires as the impact of firing pin to the primer is cushioned by the round moving forward in the chamber. Have a great day, FC
So, if I started loading .45 ACP, the Lee .45 ACP FCD would automatically be a taper crimping die?
To muddy the water a bit, there is a 1911 that shoots the .357 Magnum...
+gapster46 -- Yep, that 45 acp FCD is a taper crimper. And you could use that to crimp for 45 Colt also if you wished (roll crimp would be better). Yes, there are some 1911s that were modified to shoot 38 Spl also. Good reloadin' to ya... FC
I must have asked Lee specifically about the .357 Magnum FCD and that’s why I got the one word “Roll” crimp back. Their web site contact page only lets you see their answer, not what I asked. Thank you for that info. First time I’ve found someone that knows the answer. :)
I was thinking of the Coonan .357 Magnum 1911 as the 1911 that shoots the .357 Magnum. There are a few videos on the gun out there.
+gapster46 --After I replied, it occurred to me that you were referencing the Coonan - I've seen one or two of those at the range. The 357 Sig reduced the utility of the Coonan. Sorry to see Lee come back with a one word answer - there is confusion as answers are not that simple as a rule. Always give the customer more for their money or their effort was what I was always taught - a one word answer does not do that. Happy Holidays to ya, FC
I had a seating depth issue with 124 Speer gold dot hp
I loaded 500 of them for my Glocks that I've had for year
They plunked and spun in the Glocks
I got a cz75b and they plunked right at the lands and wouldn't spin so I had to reseat about .004 shorter to accommodate the shorter throat of the cz
wight privilege - Sounds like you have good control of the ogive problem with those Speers, but have found the solution nicely. Continued good shootin' to ya.... Steve
We also need to keep in mind the effects of seating depth and reduction of case volume which in certain situations and certain powders can cause dangerous pressure spikes. Always consult published data! If you are doing some trailblazing with bullets not intended for a given cartridge, we need to keep that in mind! Also lest we forget about compressed charges. As reloaders we also need to keep in mind how seating depth affects accuracy, feeding, and reliability. Sometimes these are variables we need to adjust but again, keeping in mind what it will do with our given powder charge. Good reason tried and true loads in published data are the way to start with till you get accustomed to reloading before stepping out on limbs. Also don't always think that a reduced charge will render experimental loads or published loads safe!
good info. I never understood how a light change can cause detonation until reading about certain powder profiles lol.
+mytmousemalibu -- Thanks for chiming in on these important points. There's enough subject matter there for eight more videos. I've been checking the NOE site but they are short on the 45 cal molds that I want - about 250-265 grain big meplat bullets PB - 5 cavity so we'll be able to show some output from quality molds. Happy Holidays to ya, FC
FortuneCookie45LC Yes, this is a topic with many, many variables! Pretty good fodder to talk about too!
Did you happen to have a look on the NOE forum page for "Group Buy's/Active Inventory Runs" list? Its easy to get one going and if it is a popular design that is out of stock, starting a group buy will fill quickly. I would be happy to add a thread over on Cast Boolits notifying the board of the request for the design and that will breath life into it and get others in on the run much faster. The majority of NOE's business probably originates with the Cast Boolits community. No private info or names gets put on there, just a thread will be generated saying an Active Run request has been started on _____ bullet mold design and a link to the page. People will see that thread and flock over to the NOE forum and put their names in, best way to advertise to get the orders in and get you the mold you want! If you commit to a GB/Inventory Run that's waiting for a run to begin as soon as they get 5 or 10 orders and you will get a discount code for 15% off when NOE runs the order. I'd be happy to help you out and that way you don't need to become a member on Cast Boolits if you didn't want to, I can go over there and put the advertising on the billboard so to speak! You will have to join to NOE forum to generate the request for it. Super easy, no hassles, or personal info, any of that. Its as easy as using the youtube comments section really. Just go to the thread for Group buys, see if one exists already for the one you want, if so, since you would be a member, you reply saying you want this bullet, the number of cavities, PB or GC or combo mold and brass or alum. A moderator will add you to the list and you will be notified when the run starts and process the buy & discount through the store page. If there is no active Group Buy showing, you would click the new thread button, Title it and say what you mold you want, and it will go active for others to start adding in. Let me know if you need to start a new one and i'll add it on CB. Sounds complicated but its not and its much faster to get one going or add yourself to an existing buy-in VS waiting who knows how long for someone to want the mold you do. Many people just wait for someone else to start it and they jump in and many guys just can't resist getting another new mold! Also, you have zero obligation or owe anything. You can make a new buy listing or add your name to one and you can back out at any time if you want and just say. "please take me off the list" and a moderator will do so. People do it all the time. You only pay after the run is made and IF you want the mold. Someone will buy it if you decide not to. I'm in on 2 different active buys for .358 spire point molds for pistols. The big/heavy, big meplat .45 designs go quick because so many guns take .45 bullets. Lot of guys want those heavies for .45LC, .454 Casull, .460 S&W and even more for the 45/70 crowd! I bet there's an active for the ones you want! Get in there and save 15% off that mold!
+mytmousemalibu - I'm going over there to NOE again right now... might be a bad time to spend more on reloading / shooting right now though. I've blown my budget on my latest on-line purchase (you'll see some videos coming up soon on what I got). I want to get my daughter a nice bow sight (over $400) for Christmas and that is going to do in my available discretionary cash for a while. However, if there is a mold I really want, might have to whip out the credit card.... Thanks for your help, might be taking you up on that. Popular molds are popular for a good reason - they are good molds - I want one of those..!! Cast Boolits is a fine community... I'm spending a lot of time on my channel. It's become a part time job... Happy Holidays, FC
FortuneCookie45LC Be happy to help when you're ready! Hope you get you a fine mold that drop 24k Lead boolits! Have you're self a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Haven't loaded any Semi-Auto cartridges (yet). I plan on doing 45ACP. The bullet depth information you supplied was GREAT. Thanks for sharing. :-)
Very nice important points made in proper loading...thanks for sharing, Professor!
+LMO MechTech - Thanks, Larry, and a very Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays to all of you...
Another great video, thank you.
Curious what load data resource, or any particularly useful ones, that are used for a lead cast flat nose or truncated cast bullets. Perhaps we could use the same powder charge for the weight indicated for lead bullets?
Doesn't seating depth change the PSI hardness necessary? Enough to make noticeable leading of the barrel?
Here is a situation I've found myself in due to chambering issues on a 1911 for a round with flat (RF) bullet.
It seems for Lee 452-200 gr molds, they have three type of bullets (90697 RF, 90310 SWC, 90379 SWC) which are likely a variety of lengths yet only one 45ACP recipe in their manual for this grain.
From what I've been able to gather, my 90697 RF bullets have a length of .5285, and a response on midway mentions 90379 is .69, making the difference .1615.
Is it safe to assume a 90697 RF for this same Lee recipe has a min OAL of 1.0635 for that same charge?
Thanks for the videos. My question is on the Lee mold c358-158-swc I have contacted Lee was advised to contact powder manufacturer and never got a true answer for the 38 special oal seated of this bullet. The crimp grove seats this bullet at 1.405 and all data for 158 swc are 1.44 to 1.47 even hodgdon stated this was a little more than they like to see but only advise testing of loads to see how they react. My worry is if there is to much bullet in the case is this going to cause problems that a new bullet caster may not realize. Or are they as you said with other bullet types safe to seat to the crimp grove and stay away from max loads? Thanks again your videos have helped me so much with my starting into reloading.
I'm getting a slight bulge after seating 9mm v-crown bullets. I'm using the Lee carbide set to work on brass. What can I do about this seating bulge issue? Thanks.
Troy R. - Obviously, you are an experienced reloader. These bulge issues are always a matter of degree. I used to get 357 loads that looked like hourglasses in some of my early reloading. If your bullets are bigger than .356", bulges can happen in the 9mm, especially if your size die is on the small side (your Lee dies are probably OK). Are you getting these bulges with regular .355" jacketed bullets? or .356" cast? If not, you might mike those v-crown bullets to see what the diameters of those are. If the bulges are slight and the ammo shoots well, it might still look objectionable to you, but the ammo would be safe and good to shoot providing all the other reloading parameters are OK. Some reloaders told me that the run the round back through the sizer die to iron out the bulges, but if that is done, neck tension on the bullets will be lost from case spring back and bullet swaging. Good reloadin' to ya, FC Steve.
FortuneCookie45LC I'll definitely take those steps to make sure the dimensions are correct. I'm new to reloading and read the lee modern reloading 2nd edition (came with my classic turret press kit) some forums and now watching your videos 👍. Your knowledge and guidance is greatly appreciated.
Such a wealth of knowledge! thank you FortunCcookie 45LC I had a chance to try the Matt's bullets that you did a video on for the 38/357 and the 44 spl/ mag in full wad cutter. What a great shooting bullet. I just bought the Lyman 429421 mold looking forward to making some bullets and loading them.Seating depth and OAL at times can difficult to set correctly you have taken some of the mystery out of it. Thanks! Good Shooting to ya!
Fantastic video FC, thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge.
Awesome info. I am just starting out in reloading and your videos have helped me understand questions that I thought of as experience builds. I have noticed that my cast bullets never weigh what the advertised grain is. Now add powder coat and the weight changes again. For the starting loads, I try and find the exact bullet in 1 of 4 sources; Hogdons website, Lee Big Book, Lyman reloading book and the chart that came with the Lee Die set. I’m using a lot of pure lead ( roofing lead) right now and the weights are probably inaccurate due to the alloys they measure by. My question to you is: what do you set your starting load by, the actual weight or by the advertised weight of the cast bullets?
I am just finishing up reloading 1500 rounds of .223, I have been buying bullets from Everglades ammo for the past few years....just under 9 cents a bullet, free shipping.
+gman77gas Thank you for the heads up on Everglades Ammo!
+SomeGuyInSandy I also just bought Sellier & Bellot primers from Cabelas....they are $22.00 / 1000. $10.00 less than all other brands, and do they seat smooth in the brass. Have not shot any yet...Just bought and loaded them yesterday...Reading reviews of these primers they more than likely will be my way to go...
oh forgot to mention I am using a Dillon 650 with Dillon dies. and the bullets I got from extreme bullets. which are definitely smaller than my last batch of 124 grain even in diameter because I almost need no case flare to seat bullet.
Lots of quality information with different bullets, I'll be saving this one to the favorite video links, hope they do the same. Hopefully they will get some good manuals and some case gauges to start out with. The gauges make things nice, easy and safe for newer and experienced hand loaders too.
hello Fc 45lc ,if a load is started ,
the best and safe way is to use the manual and listed components (and warnings for starting load)for the C.O.L ,because longer col and(to ) little freeflight will get high pressure and with some powders (ballpowders)will do the same,
and shorter cartridge lenght (less case volume) can also do the same.
and if all pressure signs look right,in little steps start adjusting for max lenght and look for pressure signs Yours peter
what is the grease groove used for on the last bullet. Also the bullets with the 2 black grooves and the copper seal. Do you need separate crimping dies for a roll crimp and taper crimp? Sorry for the questions but you asked ;) thanks.
+Matt Lord - Elmer Keith always wanted generous grease grooves on his bullet designs - that provides lubrication for the bullet going down the bore. Turns out in later studies that the amount of grease was more than needed. The previous bullet had two grease grooves and they are filled with Lyman Moly Lube - it is a grease that is black because of the moly included. If you desire to taper crimp, you need a taper crimp die; if roll crimp, you need a roll crimp die. Roll crimp dies can only roll crimp. Taper only taper. Modern 45 ACP and 45 Colt can shoot the same bullet so a taper crimp die can taper crimp either round. The 45 Colt roll crimp die can also roll crimp the 45 ACP, but no one would do that since that would raise cain with the headspace on the auto pistol. Revolvers headspace on the rims so that the type of crimp makes no difference to the headspace. Hope this helps...please come back if any other questions... Happy Holidays to ya, FC
fc45lc - Thank you for this background information. I just ran across my first plated bullet 240 gr - Flat nose bullet from Berry's Bullets. Thanks again. :-)
L Krueger - Hope they shoot well for you...Plated bullets are cheaper than shooting jacketed, but offer tougher coatings than can be had with lubes or powder coatings. However, cast bullets are even cheaper than plated. Competition shooters like the plated because there is less smoke than shooting cast... Good shootin' to ya, FC Steve
Varmints by the pak. :)
Totally confused right now. Roll crimp / taper crimp / factory crimp. FMJ cast bullets etc. Don't get it it. Please explain again. Thank you in advance.
I figured it out. I made a stupid beginner mistake. thanks,
+Matt Lord -- Sounds good, Matt -- Good reloadin' to ya, FC
Hi FC.
Having trouble finding your video on finding the lanse ( spelled right? )
On one's rife. I would be using my Henry levergun or shooting 223 / 5.56 from my mini 14..
What is the title of the video?
Thanks for Seraphina and I! ( unashamedly big fans )
tjmooremusic - The distance to the lands for a bolt gun is essential to best accuracy as we normally want bullets seated anywhere from .001-.009" from the lands. But with lever guns, the seating depth is dictated by 1) the crimping grooves on cast bullets 2) the cannelures on jacketed bullets 3) seating of the bullet to feed in the gun. Seat according to the loading manual for that particular bullet is a good starting point. With auto rifles and pistols, again, the seating depth for the particular bullet in the reloading manual is a good place to start, but the magazine length is a big factor also. Plus the round has to feed which impacts the OAL as well as the bullet shape. Good reloadin' to ya, FC Steve
Hello fortuneCookie45LC
Your information is outstanding.
I have a question about 38Sp 158gr copper plated with cannalur
If i crimp at this point,min oal falls below what is listed in reloading book
Your reply please
Thank you john
John Dziegelewski - Your 158 grain copper plated bullet has been designed to be seated in the cannelure. The max OAL listed in the reloading manuals is the max so that your rounds should not be longer. But they can be shorter. Loading deeper than the cannelure is not recommended as deeper seating depth results in higher pressures - if you desire to seat deeper, a powder charge cut to test is good to do. If your OAL is short of the max OAL in the manual, the manuals always recommend starting low and working up powder charges anyway. This is our fundamental for safety allowing for variations in our equipment and procedures. Good reloadin' to ya, FC Steve
hey Fortune Cookie, I am trying to reload some jp 115 grain 9mm. I have been playing with it and no matter what I do or how deep I crimp the bullet is able to turn or spins in the case. is this normal? the last batch of a 1000 rounds crimped and loaded fine and feeds and shoot without fail. It appears that the shinny bullet and my well cleaned and lightly lubed cases may be why they can turn. Do you have an idea?
thanks again,
Matt
wish i has seen this video a week ago when i had to reseat 350 rounds of .38, wicked awesome channel now subscribed.