Nah i think he meant the down pipes with little bit of metal plate that protrudes into the turbo itself so it seperates the wastegate flow from turbo flow until about 10cm later, Dyno tunes showed no change in power just slightly more stable boost control and less backpressure which is good. @@Fine_Performance
@@tbas8741 yeah it just stops the exhaust flow interrupting wastegate flapper & aids the boost control. It’s usually not necessary. You can get ones that are completely divorced & the wastegate flow rejoins further down the exhaust pipe. I havnt had an issue with either of my WRX with just an open exhaust.
Some of those divorced pipes with wrong sizing actually SUCK the WG open from the gases going past smaller pipe and scavenging from it. @@Fine_Performance
So tdo5 is the turbine end (hot) the compressor is a 20g (cold side) some of the porting was okay but your assumption on turbine flow interfering with the gate is all wrong. Ideally you want then devided but that has to do with harmonics. You do want a megaphone on the turbine housing exit about 1inch per ft but never a opposite velocity stack. The reason is kinda obvious but just incase the rate of expansion has to match the gas expansion to not cause loads of turbulence (which is still small potatoes since a good bit is common outside the turbine.). Porting the gate yes do that but that transition into the gate the more aggressive you make that the more control you have over boost. On a 20g if you not making over 400whp I wouldn't touch it as too far hurts spool and power and honestly a td06h4 turbine and housing is a smarter option for a 20g than porting especially since you go from a 11 blade turbine wheel to a 9 blade in a much bigger turbine housing. Dont remember off my head but I wanna say the td05 is a .67ar and the td06h4 is a .87ar. I know my 20g with a td05 housing and turbine was getting high in the back pressure around 18psi but my td06h4 doesnt creep at all and happily makes 30psi. No dyno to confirm but times suggest around 550-600 but the previous owner had a dyno sheet that said 609whp which maybe but until I see it I cant say. Now I will say that at 400hp the small td06 housing is best no creep plenty of flow and spool by 3k on a 2.0l where my td06h4 is spooled around 4500rpm and much laggier. Keep in mind this is with the same compressor. Think of the td06h4 as a great turbo for racing and street use the td05 is great for a street car and the td06 is in between but closer to a td06h4 biggest differences are blade count and ar but ar isnt that different.
Thanks, that’s great info. The spool ended up being very close to the STi turbo I later refitted. Given that it was ball bearing vs the bigger journal bearing turbo & there was only a 500rpm difference, I figured it had helped & id seen some other info indicating that the stock shape of the back of the turbo could use some improvement. The idea was not to open the path of the air from the turbine, to hit the flapper on the wastegate because of it did it might hold the flapper open & therefore would affect the turbo spooling.
What he means is the td05-18 or 20 g turbos for Subaru 2 liter needs to be 7cm turbine housing on the hot side. For daily driving on a ej 20 the tdo5h 18 is a favorite, I’d recommend that when going to a 20 g to step up the exhaust side to the 8cm tdo5 20g I believe that the td06 20g is said to be the best turbo for the ej25 exploiting all the potential out of the motor. Even Subaru regretted not using the tdo6 20g. 400 wheel torque and 400 wheel horse power. I have a 100mm bore 2.58 liter sti and the td06 20g is perfect, practically bolt on, I had all the headers and a built motor with stock turbo for break in then quickly swapped turbos and the difference was unbielievable 3rd gear would start spinning like a gymkhana car, thus checking off the list of the dream daily driver. Must do drifts box Must get me to work to pay for my mods on my car box And must make and utilize all the turbo noises not just sound good,
@11:30 You said , " I might leave the boost source to the wastegate actuator disconnected " . That would be really bad , atleast with it connected it would open eventually . I hope you have learnt a bit more about turbos and how they work since you made this video.
@@Fmnpc Its not relly that simple because the whole assembly would need rebalancing. The Chra is stuffed now, it has 2-3mm of up & down play. & with a new chra youd need the housings machined to match the in profile of any new turbine/s.
@@Fmnpc The turbo makes good power. With a ball bearing CHRA you might see sooner spool. Better quality housings & turbines would make more power due to being a better design. A $236 turbo doesnt exactly have Garrett level aerodynamics. Hence why its 100 times cheaper & lasted 100 times less.
Ball bearing turbo quicker spool time of 0.25 - 0.5 seconds is not worth the much much shorter lifespan IMHO. Average lifespan of a TD04 or any journal bearing turbo is 350-500,000KM or 2 Engine lives, Any Journal bearing turbo made these days should easily last 400-500,000km if looked after properly., New oil every 3500-5000km & letting the car idle 1-3 mins after hard driving (turbo timer if you are lazy :D) Also letting the car reach full temps before using more than 3-4psi boost.@@Fine_Performance
I’ll have to measure them. I just took the turbo down to the race parts shop & they made up the pieces. 2x orb to AN, 2x AN to push loc & 1m of hose that I cut to length. I’ll try remember to measure & I’ll report back.
Yeah, I just put a VF34 on in place of my VF23/28, then in place of the TD05-20G. The biggest thing is, if you have an aftermarket boost controller… you’ll need to retune the duty cycle &/or gain setup because the previous boost controller’s settings might over overboost the new turbo.
I’d say too big. The 20G is slightly too big for 2L if you want response. It’s good on the 2L if you were racing or driving fast. But around town is takes a little more to build boost. 16G is much better suited to 1.6L engine.
@@dominikborowski I have put a VF28 (same as 23). Tbh there isn’t much difference with the VF28 vs TD05-20g. The TD05 pulls harder to redline than the Vf turbo.
@@dominikborowski td04 runs out of puff up top. Vf23/28 etc is good. I feel like the TD05 still has more pull up top though so you keep accelerating rather than the power seems to plateau with the VF a little bit.
@@Fine_Performance yeah but for a 1.6 a td04 makes way more sense. Also nice to have some mitrange torque. Without a good ecu tune td05 16g in a stock ej20 is useless imo. I have a direct comparison between two cars and the one with smaller turbo feels way faster
It certainly felt like it wanted to keep going. 16psi kinda felt like it was only just getting into boost. Unfortunately on my daily, I did get have the fuel system (injectors & pump) to support much more than 18psi. Nothing worse than leaning out an engine under high boost.
@@HeidiFegles I’m running a Vf34 & if I were to run 22psi, the stock WRX engine is only going to last so long with the HP that would produce. Maybe an sti engine, but above 270-280HP on WRX engine you’re asking for trouble.
"This turbo is fucked"🤣.
often referred to and also = ROOTED !
"you be your fucking life it is" Hhahahah my man
5.07 and that is why you buy an exhaust with a splitter - divider = they are the best types ! = i did and it is great .
Do you mean a divorced wastegate pipe?
Nah i think he meant the down pipes with little bit of metal plate that protrudes into the turbo itself so it seperates the wastegate flow from turbo flow until about 10cm later,
Dyno tunes showed no change in power just slightly more stable boost control and less backpressure which is good. @@Fine_Performance
@@tbas8741 yeah it just stops the exhaust flow interrupting wastegate flapper & aids the boost control. It’s usually not necessary. You can get ones that are completely divorced & the wastegate flow rejoins further down the exhaust pipe. I havnt had an issue with either of my WRX with just an open exhaust.
Some of those divorced pipes with wrong sizing actually SUCK the WG open from the gases going past smaller pipe and scavenging from it.
@@Fine_Performance
@@tbas8741 no.
The turbo is good i do this all the time its a great thing
So tdo5 is the turbine end (hot) the compressor is a 20g (cold side) some of the porting was okay but your assumption on turbine flow interfering with the gate is all wrong. Ideally you want then devided but that has to do with harmonics. You do want a megaphone on the turbine housing exit about 1inch per ft but never a opposite velocity stack. The reason is kinda obvious but just incase the rate of expansion has to match the gas expansion to not cause loads of turbulence (which is still small potatoes since a good bit is common outside the turbine.). Porting the gate yes do that but that transition into the gate the more aggressive you make that the more control you have over boost. On a 20g if you not making over 400whp I wouldn't touch it as too far hurts spool and power and honestly a td06h4 turbine and housing is a smarter option for a 20g than porting especially since you go from a 11 blade turbine wheel to a 9 blade in a much bigger turbine housing. Dont remember off my head but I wanna say the td05 is a .67ar and the td06h4 is a .87ar. I know my 20g with a td05 housing and turbine was getting high in the back pressure around 18psi but my td06h4 doesnt creep at all and happily makes 30psi. No dyno to confirm but times suggest around 550-600 but the previous owner had a dyno sheet that said 609whp which maybe but until I see it I cant say. Now I will say that at 400hp the small td06 housing is best no creep plenty of flow and spool by 3k on a 2.0l where my td06h4 is spooled around 4500rpm and much laggier. Keep in mind this is with the same compressor. Think of the td06h4 as a great turbo for racing and street use the td05 is great for a street car and the td06 is in between but closer to a td06h4 biggest differences are blade count and ar but ar isnt that different.
Thanks, that’s great info. The spool ended up being very close to the STi turbo I later refitted. Given that it was ball bearing vs the bigger journal bearing turbo & there was only a 500rpm difference, I figured it had helped & id seen some other info indicating that the stock shape of the back of the turbo could use some improvement. The idea was not to open the path of the air from the turbine, to hit the flapper on the wastegate because of it did it might hold the flapper open & therefore would affect the turbo spooling.
What he means is the td05-18 or 20 g turbos for Subaru 2 liter needs to be 7cm turbine housing on the hot side. For daily driving on a ej 20 the tdo5h 18 is a favorite, I’d recommend that when going to a 20 g to step up the exhaust side to the 8cm tdo5 20g
I believe that the td06 20g is said to be the best turbo for the ej25 exploiting all the potential out of the motor. Even Subaru regretted not using the tdo6 20g. 400 wheel torque and 400 wheel horse power. I have a 100mm bore 2.58 liter sti and the td06 20g is perfect, practically bolt on, I had all the headers and a built motor with stock turbo for break in then quickly swapped turbos and the difference was unbielievable 3rd gear would start spinning like a gymkhana car, thus checking off the list of the dream daily driver. Must do drifts box
Must get me to work to pay for my mods on my car box
And must make and utilize all the turbo noises not just sound good,
@11:30 You said , " I might leave the boost source to the wastegate actuator disconnected " .
That would be really bad , atleast with it connected it would open eventually .
I hope you have learnt a bit more about turbos and how they work since you made this video.
“Just connected”. Not “disconnected”. Ie: no boost controller between the wastegate & the compressor housing.
@@Fine_Performance The way you worded it was scary talk , now that makes sense.
Would you see more gains from replacing the internal of the ebay turbo?
I just don’t know if another chra (core) will fit these housings properly.
@@Fine_Performance I was more of talking like if You replaced the compressor and exhaust wheels with like a tomika ones
@@Fmnpc Its not relly that simple because the whole assembly would need rebalancing. The Chra is stuffed now, it has 2-3mm of up & down play. & with a new chra youd need the housings machined to match the in profile of any new turbine/s.
@@Fmnpc The turbo makes good power. With a ball bearing CHRA you might see sooner spool. Better quality housings & turbines would make more power due to being a better design. A $236 turbo doesnt exactly have Garrett level aerodynamics. Hence why its 100 times cheaper & lasted 100 times less.
Ball bearing turbo quicker spool time of 0.25 - 0.5 seconds is not worth the much much shorter lifespan IMHO.
Average lifespan of a TD04 or any journal bearing turbo is 350-500,000KM or 2 Engine lives, Any Journal bearing turbo made these days should easily last 400-500,000km if looked after properly., New oil every 3500-5000km & letting the car idle 1-3 mins after hard driving (turbo timer if you are lazy :D) Also letting the car reach full temps before using more than 3-4psi boost.@@Fine_Performance
Hi again when you changed your vf to td05 did you change oil feed banjo bolt to one without a restriction in it ? Thanks
Yeah I did. I used the tiny hole one for VF & used one from a TD04 for the journal bearing turbo.
Do you know what size an fittings you used for water pipes ?
I’ll have to measure them. I just took the turbo down to the race parts shop & they made up the pieces. 2x orb to AN, 2x AN to push loc & 1m of hose that I cut to length. I’ll try remember to measure & I’ll report back.
@@Fine_Performance thanks it’s mainly the thread size and pitch 👍
@@anthonyhunt6765 I’ll have to measure. I though it was metric to AN fittings. But I think they’re like UNF or something.
Question can I install a vf48 on the ej2.0
Yeah, I just put a VF34 on in place of my VF23/28, then in place of the TD05-20G. The biggest thing is, if you have an aftermarket boost controller… you’ll need to retune the duty cycle &/or gain setup because the previous boost controller’s settings might over overboost the new turbo.
How's it running?
I took it off when I changed my headers. I just posted a video of the car doing a hillclimb with it. Check this playlist.
You think I should go td05 for a 1.6 16v vvt renault engine?
I’d say too big. The 20G is slightly too big for 2L if you want response. It’s good on the 2L if you were racing or driving fast. But around town is takes a little more to build boost. 16G is much better suited to 1.6L engine.
In my opinion td05 even 16g will be too big. I have it on my 2.0 and it start spooling at 4000rpm. Get a td04 or a VF23 turbo
@@dominikborowski I have put a VF28 (same as 23). Tbh there isn’t much difference with the VF28 vs TD05-20g. The TD05 pulls harder to redline than the Vf turbo.
@@dominikborowski td04 runs out of puff up top. Vf23/28 etc is good. I feel like the TD05 still has more pull up top though so you keep accelerating rather than the power seems to plateau with the VF a little bit.
@@Fine_Performance yeah but for a 1.6 a td04 makes way more sense. Also nice to have some mitrange torque. Without a good ecu tune td05 16g in a stock ej20 is useless imo. I have a direct comparison between two cars and the one with smaller turbo feels way faster
Would this work on an ej255?
Yes, but get a better quality turbo. It only lasted 3 months & now has 3-4mm of up & down play in the compressor.
They like 22 pounds a lot
It certainly felt like it wanted to keep going. 16psi kinda felt like it was only just getting into boost. Unfortunately on my daily, I did get have the fuel system (injectors & pump) to support much more than 18psi. Nothing worse than leaning out an engine under high boost.
@@Fine_Performance well the air is there when you get the fuel support…
@@HeidiFegles I’m running a Vf34 & if I were to run 22psi, the stock WRX engine is only going to last so long with the HP that would produce. Maybe an sti engine, but above 270-280HP on WRX engine you’re asking for trouble.