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@@nickrajoo9769 375HP @ 18psi

@@TrailblazingJester I’m on aftermarket ECU so I don’t really get misfire codes but yes on factory ECU you would get a misfire code i.e. a check engine light which flashes up the code for misfire. It’s usually the coil pack connectors or the Coilpacks themselves.

@@victordola8902 thanks!

@@jayparkin3849 Gday, thanks! I don’t think so. Mainly because both my turbos are already stock location & the SYMS headers would be tricky to modify to run rotated style. I could do it on the blue car, but it’s a lot of expense for not a great deal of additional performance as I’m Only going to run a 5 speed (for now) & the Blouch turbo can support enough power to destroy the 5mt. I have just got a new welder & am teaching myself to tug weld. So I could hopefully do some of the fab in the future. But it’s not really a priority atm. Plus I prefer a smaller turbo & great response, over something bigger & high horsepower.

@@Fine_Performance Just make an adapter that bolts on to the existing flange of your headers, aeroflow even sell them for around $200. How I've done all my cars and makes maintenance easy. I didn't notice much of a response difference tbh when going to a bigger garrett. Also don't doubt the 5 speeds, I've done atleast 25 launches on my 5 speeds and my gf8 runs 330kw!

@@jayparkin3849 I’d go a g series Garrett, but that’ll only give a higher HP figure. Then I’d have to make a dump, change the cooler piping, buy a gate & plumb the screamer. I wouldt run atmo screamer as I hate it on my jzx. Every time I’m into boost it just roars like crazy. I’d rather hear the turbo flowing through the cooler/ piping.

@@Fine_Performance Tbh I don't really rate the g series, road tuned heaps of cars with them on and pulsar equivalents. I don't notice any real difference in spool and response compare to a gtx or even gt series. Borgwarner efr series is the shit, done 2.5, 2.35 and 2l setups and they spool like crazy, good mates car runs a 7670 and is 30psi slightly before 4k. Easy to do a plumb back, if you're half decent at welding it isn't too much money to make a setup, pulsar wastegates are also really good and aren't too much money.

@@jayparkin3849 if I was going to do that, I would get ets or killerB headers and then just make a complete up pipe. But the way I see it the only reason you would go rotated if you wanted to run a big turbo that you can’t fit in the stock location. And yeah, I’m not really into big Turbos. I’d rather have more power sooner and have a really good driveable car rather than something that makes peak power over 120 km an hour.

@@pistonsandconrods I bought a wiring harness off a guy & just had them sitting in a fuel rail. He gave them to me for free as he no longer had the car.

@@prmarkbyggentreprenad3787 EJ20K is Sti 97-98 - shim under bucket. EJ20G is Shim over bucket. There are early EJ20G (92-96). Then there are “late” EJ20G 97-98 that are identical to EJ20K but shim over bucket, less agressive cams, smaller injectors, Different ecu & also different MAF.

@@user-ug1mu6qu8m me neither. I ended up having my wheels blasted & repainted.

@@nicolaasvandenberg4023 thanks Nic, yeah it’s really starting to come together now!

@@najstephy5565 thank you. Yeah look you don’t have to, some people just have a little filter on there. But technically here in Australia that is illegal for emissions reasons. I get picked on by cops pretty hard so I try do things by the book as best I can. It’s basically just taking the air pre throttle plate, rather than via the atmosphere.

@@waeleldanbouky6920 apparently it’s fuel cut. You must be running more than 14psi boost or something.

@@Fine_Performance my car a stock touror V but in mint condition , actually one of the very last 1996 jzx 90 , i also feel a deceleration at 5000 RPM and above but there is nothing wrong with the engine , it is very hard to find a diagnostic pin for the car because everything is more modern

@@waeleldanbouky6920 it’s a box in the engine bay. Or an obd port under the dash or glovebox. How much boost are you running? Do you have a boost gauge? Do you have a boost controller?

@@Fine_Performance yes , 1,2

@@waeleldanbouky6920 yeah, so the factory ecu has a boost cut. It’s like 14 or 16psi. You’re prolly hitting boost cut. You either need a boost cut defender. Aftermarket ecu. Or I dunno.

@@waeleldanbouky6920 no idea man. My car is not a factory JZX90. It’s a custom build. Maybe find out what a similar issue might be for JZX100. You can also pull the codes from the diagnostic box by bridging 2 wires, but again I’m not sure how to do that as I don’t have a factory diagnostic box.

@@yomer9537 I’m not 100% sure what position the Sc300 needs. I’m doing R150 for my stepson atm & I’ve got the 150 shifter, I’ve also got a jzx100 tripod for it. But yea I have a *feeling, the JZX110 position *might be best for jzz30/sc300. But I’m not 100% sure. I did a quick google the other night & didn’t find an exact answer. Best way is to measure from the back of the motor to the shifter position.

@@Fine_Performance I couldn’t find anything either, thought I ask someone with knowledge. Thanks for the response and wish you the best in your project.

@@yomer9537 I’ll post something once I find out for sure. But I’d just ask some guys that have done manual conversion which box/ shifter combo they used & where it put the shifter? My educated guess said the jzx110. But that’s only 10mm in front of tripod / remote shifter, so we’re going with remote & maybe doglegging the lever (unless it doesn’t work).

@@technology42069 via Jesse streeter (streeter corporation - Japanese importer). Was cheaper than RHDjapan retail price with delivered.

@@damnitdang yeah you’re right, I did think about doing the exact same thing. But I just left it to see how it performed. The thing (GT3076) makes boost instantly, ie as soon as you put your foot down, it starts building boost.

@@tjhodge3562 in Australia, Just Jap. But if you’re overseas, email Jessie streeter @ streeter corporation. He is an exporter in Japan. Great on price & easy to deal with. Or look for a reseller in your country. Whereabouts are you from @tjhodge?

@Fine_Performance north carolina. In U.S. I just imported a gc8 STI. And really wanting to start putting some mods on. But alot of stuff has been discontinued.

@@tjhodge3562 these are still current.

@@ricks_toys doubt it. It’s GREDDY Exhaust manifold, custom mild steel system & dump. Centre muffler w/ kakimoto canon. The perfect setup. ruclips.net/video/B8r-OGswhBg/видео.htmlsi=Q_jYvBHMoxN5abpB

Might just be the mic, it sounds muffled and diesel like​@@Fine_Performance

@@ricks_toys yeah I listened back to it then. It doesn’t sound like that now cos we retuned the idle & the first part of the map (well my mate did, I just kept it at the right rpm). It was running super rich in the clip.

@@ricks_toys it sounds more like this now irl. My iPhone doesn’t pickup the sound as well as a proper might mic would. This has better gate sound, but I reckon the exhaust note is nicer. It’ll change again once the cams are dialed in & it’s retuned properly. ruclips.net/video/MHPzlNWg0Ws/видео.htmlsi=pLDWFmVOrMMDRJUC

@@Fine_Performance that's more like it, sweet Im gonna grab some when Im in Japan next month. The perfect lobe and not obnoxious

@@ika1041 I drove the car the next day. I would avoid driving in the rain, but as long as you don’t wife the headlight with a cloth, I’m sure it will be fine.

@@AngelFlores-ix6cm VVTi has torque 500rpm early because of the variable intake cam (VVTi). But I reckon the NON VVTi sounds best due to the port design. Also I think VVTi has 9:1 compression pistons so better off throttle response, whereas NON VVTi is 8.5:1.

​@@Fine_PerformanceThank you ,i bought a 1jz biturbo no vvti engine and i wash't sure if i had made a good purchase.

@@AngelFlores-ix6cm yeah, so that’s what my engine is. I just removed the twin turbos & fitted a single turbo & manifold. The twin turbos are good, you just have to watch not running too much boost as they have ceramic coated exhaust wheels. You can get usdm “steel wheel” twins, that can run more boost. Just do a bit of reading. You’ve bought a great engine!

How do u remove the turbos together with the mannifold? If is possible.

@@manny1782 Ive no idea, do you mean the twins? My engine came without the factory turbos. So I’ve only ever run the single Garrett & trust manifold.

@@Lplaterwrx thank you 🙏 I was a going to go with gold or gunmetal centre, but I thought I’d choose a centre colour that a Japanese person might run. They always have a certain kind of style.

www.toyodiy.com/parts/xref?s=78110-33010&mU=on&mE=on&mJ=on&mG=on

@@karolisskudra1681 if it’s 8” crown wheel & pinion, you could fit the internals into an x81 diff housing. But I’d try find a trd clutch center or get a Cusco/ OS Giken clutch lsd. If it’s 7.5” cw you can use an altezza diff internals.

@@Fine_Performance thank you ye I’m nearly sure it’s a 8inc crown

@@karolisskudra1681 so 8” is G series & so hilux /jzx / supra (most) etc. Ae86 is T series size. Just make sure though, there’s F series which is altezza size. So make sure you confirm before ordering parts.

@@KyroJZ 45mm turbo smart gen iv

@@KyroJZ reason it flutters like that is because I have it on closed loop vs my pedal position, so as I change the throttle position, the boost target changes. So the ecu tries to modulate the gate to achieve the current boost target.

@@Fine_Performance oh yeah sick, I’m running the same gate. Soon to be driven. Wonder what it’s going to sound like

@@KyroJZ they sound good. But it also depends on the shape of your screamer. Mine is in an S shape to clear the rack. A lot of guys’ are straight & just point to the ground.

@@technology42069 older GT3076 it is

@@josephc2294 not hey man spec. Just standard DG5, but I got custom 24kg front & 6kg rear. I have +25mm lcas. Ordered through streeter corp. not rhd

@@Fine_Performance appreciate the info. I went for standard DG5 with 24kg front & 8kg rear. I’ve standard lcas.. only Cusco adjustable top cambers arms. Plan to get extended lcas in the future. Can’t wait to try the DG5 !

@@josephc2294 you’ll be stoked & 8kg is probably better for a street car. Once you go extended lca, shorten the uprights & ditch the adjustable fuca. Unless you need them for agressive wheels/ Fitment. But you will be happy with the Coilovers. Let me know, I can check where I have them setup damper wise. Think the front is either 4 or 6 clicks off fully hard & the rears are 10-12 off fully hard.

@@Fine_Performance yeah my mate is running 24/6, but he’s got big power and n style rear archers. Mine is relatively standard atm engine wise, although I do plan on a TD06 25G in the near future so 8kg rear would probably suit me better. Yeah I won’t be going for an overly aggressive front so fuca will not be needed. I only ordered them last night so hopefully should have them in the car by the end of the month and I’ll let you know, if your damper setup is good I’ll go with that.

@@josephc2294 it corrects the geometry when you lower the car. Short uprights & rcas prevent bump steer (your car pulling to one side when you go over a bump). Also, the fuca hit the shock towers & pop the ball joints out.

@@Lplaterwrx I ended up running VF34 on this car. Spools better but doesn’t sound as good. The other car has a Bloucb dominator XTR 1.5 7cm.

@@Fine_Performance damn how does the blouch go, been wanting to grab one of them for my bugeye

@@Lplaterwrx dunno yet, I’m still building the car. It’s similar to a garret Gtx3071 I think. I’ve got a GT3076 on my jzx90 & that rips. See a lot of these turbos are different eras, so hard to compare. TD05 is oldest, so prolly sounds the coolest, but least performance. GT30 is 10 year old tech. Vf34 is prolly 6-8 years old? (Definitely newer than vf22 or 23 etc). Then Blouch is fairly new. Only thing newer would be a G series, or something by BW or precision (or based of that newer tech ie Grimmspeed TD05 frame with newer compressor/ turbine tech). The newer the turbo tech makes more power @ less psi, has higher hp overall & generally spool quicker.

@@ronaldtartaglia4459 I was looking at it as I put my EVIL away. It definitely is one of my favourites.

2017 I think?

Hey man no worries. Hopefully all the info is there that you need!

“Just connected”. Not “disconnected”. Ie: no boost controller between the wastegate & the compressor housing.

@@Fine_Performance The way you worded it was scary talk , now that makes sense.

Cheers :) skirts are JZX100 & the rear pods (spats) are mkii JZX90 pods. They are extremely hard to find.

Cool looks really good kinda like a OEM Aero kit. Which jzx100 are they from look like chaser?

@@ciaranfox3765 yeah, essentially it is oem aero. Just the jzx90 skirts are rare & the pods are also. Chaser/ mark ii 100 side skirts are the same as one another I believe. The 90 skirts don’t look as good tbh if can even find them.

Yeah I have both GD coils & some R35 (need adapter kit). My 99 car has coil on plug, it’s a bit trickier to wire up on this car, but I’ll probably just make a fresh ignition loom from the ecu.

@@Fine_PerformanceI can give you a spare gd wrx loom that Has coil plugs and wiring if you want, already had a few plugs taken off but still good

The only thing getting this brake dust off was sandpaper!

Yeah, front Mount intercooler and no blow off valve

@@Fine_Performance ever try this with a TMIC? I'm trying to keep mine close to stock setup with just a bigger g turbo! Also by no BOV u kept the recirc or got rid of that too?

@@tradesauce-official recirc is the blow off valve. But no, I’ve not ever owned a wrx with top mount. Front mount reduces intake temps significantly better than top mount. Heaps of places have done tests.

@@Fine_Performance thanks and over here we call recirc that and Bov blowoff. But I hear ya. Also, I bet, about the temp thing. I'm just trying to keep it a little more stockish and not blow the motor. Even though it's built can't trust it. Not familiar with this platform yet. Thanks for the info

@@tradesauce-official check your oil once a month. Always use premium fuel. Don’t run more than 18 psi for long periods of time. Change your oil at least twice a year. Use good quality oil (don’t need the most expensive, but don’t buy the cheapest). Don’t thrash it too much essentially, especially cornering hard.

You want to see the storage. This is a charity Bikeshop here in Australia. We are very lucky we get donated hundreds and hundreds of bikes that we fix up and then the money goes to feed homeless and help run a drug rehabilitation.

It certainly felt like it wanted to keep going. 16psi kinda felt like it was only just getting into boost. Unfortunately on my daily, I did get have the fuel system (injectors & pump) to support much more than 18psi. Nothing worse than leaning out an engine under high boost.

@@Fine_Performance well the air is there when you get the fuel support…

@@HeidiFegles I’m running a Vf34 & if I were to run 22psi, the stock WRX engine is only going to last so long with the HP that would produce. Maybe an sti engine, but above 270-280HP on WRX engine you’re asking for trouble.

Oh thanks man. The diesel conversion ones are pretty embarrassing 🤣. But I try my best to share stuff I pick up along the way. All the JZX forums are closed down now & info was pretty scarce when they were around.

@@Fine_Performance Yeah it's a shame they're closed down man, especially since it was a great place for concentrated info. and don't even mention it these videos are great. Also have to replace my tie rod ends and tie rods too and they're clearly not jzx or any of the ones you mentioned so your video is still really helpful for me too.

@@OddClancy send me some photos on instagram. It’s fine_performance. There’s another style that I didn’t list that people use that are from a Honda stream. They are generally for 35 mm extended Lcas. I don’t quite know what rack ends they use though to get the right length. There was a right up in a Japanese magazine somewhere I had read. It was using reverse brand knuckles & +35 mm lca.

@@OddClancy oh actually now that I think of it you’ve probably got JZX100 ones which I don’t have pictured in that video. Do they look like this: images.app.goo.gl/MvyDhHtc8LjjyJNN6

@@Fine_Performance man this just keeps getting deeper as I go. I've really got no clue if I've got extended lcas or what these tie rod ends are from in any fashion Ive only just paid attention to it as my lower ball joint and tie rod ends boots are ruined on the left side. I sent out a request on insta mate. Very much appreciated

No idea. I wasn’t revving the crap out of it as the was a school nearby.

@@Fine_Performance Hah fair enough! What turbo was the best overall?

@@class2instructor32 for sound (ie chatter), the td05. For performance, the VF34. The VF23 & 28 were good, but the VF34 has a higher HP potential. The 97 WRX w/ STi engine I’m building now has a Blouch Dominator XTR 1.5 7cm. It’s similar size to the TD05-20G but much more modern design, so greater HP, sooner spool & is ball bearing. That should be pretty good I’m hoping.

@@Fine_Performance wicked, I've got a jdm forester Sti with a td04, Been stock for ever, just got a 3" cat back, just gotta get a downpipe injectors & fuel pump (& a tune I use project Lambda Tune.)

@@class2instructor32 gotcha, well a used VF34 is a great upgrade. Just check the bearing for excessive in-out play. Most turbos have a little bit after a while, but just nothing excessive.

Do you mean convert to coil on plug? That’s the plan…. Using R35 GTR coils & adapter kit. The wiring is sitting on the manifold is so I can look how to run the wiring.

@@Fine_Performance ye , but GTR ? It's very simple to remove this cabels and make good one , u need 4 coil with her cabels and that't it u can make it 30 min , you will never have missfire problem i have it 🤘

@@Nick2126 I have a set of diamond GD coils, I was going to go with them. But R35 I have on my 1JZ & they are very powerful spark. PRP OR TAARKS makes an adapter kit & yeah, I’ll make my own harness.