Thanks so much for making/sharing this. You described the issue with my mazda 3 to the letter. After 5 years of stress and multiple mechanics failing to fix the issue, i just did it myself. But without your video, it may have never happened. I wish you and your family the best. God bless!
Thanks for this video. I finally got around do doing my Mazda 3 Sport 2005 here in the UK last week and you showed me the way bro. Slightly different, I had the warning light on the dash, been there for a few years now reading a fault code C1288 which is a common flaw in this model apparently. A garage fitting a new Mazda ABS module wanted about $1300 equivalent a few years ago. Ridiculous. I took the module off like you showed and sent it away to be re-conditioned and had it back inside 3 days (about $200). Refitted today, brakes bled, the light is finally out on the dash. It's a weight off my back for sure. Thanks again, guys like you taking time to make these videos really inspire and help people into DIY mechanics and save us lots of hard earned pay. Something I never thought I'd be able to tackle before.
Were your brakes spongy even with the engine off?.. I got the Traction control light but the brakes are firm with the engine off but feel like crap when engine is running. even after bleeding it was worse than before.
I've been chasing a low pedal on my 2007 Mazda 3 (232K miles). Repeatedly bled, tried to bleed master Cyl on car ... repeated hard stops in snow or rain. ABS works at times, but not others. I have an inkling it might be the ABS pump too - thx for video.
I did not have huffing but all the symptoms you described. . Apparently, there is a valve that gets stuck inside the ABS module. I went on an unpaved road and started breaking activating the ABS. It took 6 tries. After that the brakes stiffened up and everything was fine. SO, do not replace the module unless you are 100% sure it is in fact bad.
My advice after living with it for 5 years now is to just be careful, never know when the ABS will engage and it will get stuck again in the open position. Right now yours probably is fine because it's currently closed and not stuck open. But if its happened once it will most likely happen again.
@@bessarion1771 The first time mine broke, was when someone cut me off and the ABS engaged when I slammed on the brakes. The thing failed completely in the open position and I had to put the pedal to the floor to get the vehicle to stop. It was a scary moment, because it really felt like I didn't have any brakes at all. Right now I can tell mine is in a semi open/closed position. The brakes are kinda spongy, but I at least don't have to put the pedal to the floor to bring the car to a stop. So knowing it can get stuck in the fully open position, my advice is to avoid engaging it.
I thought my problem was the ABS pump but just went to the garage. The brakes got hard after pumping with the engine off and no noise. The brake pedal is soft at the top and goes almost to the floor to get it to stop. It will ABS stop but the back brakes seemed to lock up more then the front( that might not be true as I only saw it stop once) We were able to get some smoke from the rear tires and not smoke from the front. The master cylinder was recently replaced. Brakes were just bleed at a mechanics shop using a vaccume bleed. My next step is to do a bunch of ABS stop and see. I hear that might help. 5-6 abs stops. At least thats free. Cheers
Hey I did the hard stops last week and it did help some at first. The pedal doesnt go all the way to the floor anymore but now other stuff with braking feels a little weird
The clicking at the bottom is the pedal bottoming out. I got the same issue in my mazda 3. I hit the brakes and push them down till i feel the click cause they won't go any further and the car takes awhile to pull up. Doesn't attempt to skid or activate the ABS. After doing some research, i definitely will not get a wrecker car one. I'll get mine rebuilt. With how many people are saying there's has failed i feel like buying a used one is going to be a waste of money and time and won't fix the issue.. thanks for the video tho.
Exactly!! I had a wrecker one & it was bad.. So I started thinking maybe the module wasn’t the issue., But months later I sent it down to Melbourne & $400 got it rebuilt., Installed it yesterday & it’s now perfect!
@@harleyhem3381 I have a spare module. You can have it if you live in Sydney. That way you can send it away for repair & keep your car on the road until it comes back for installation..
You think the Mazda has annoying problems to repair, wait until that BMW 3 series gets over 100k miles! I recently had both a 2009 Mazda 5 and a 2003 BMW 325i in my driveway taking turns giving me repairs to do. Just sold the BMW and thankful I don't have to work on that thing ever again! Still working on the Mazda (and yes it has the mushy pedal after ABS problem too.)
I know this is old but If I use an abs module from the exact make, model,sub model and year as my car will I need to program it? Sorry if you answered this and I missed it.
Hello, I’m buying a used abs module for my 2013 Mazda 3i, the only difference between the car I bought it from and mine is that mine is a sedan and standard. Do I need to reprogram it or is it safe to just install it?
I bought a secondhand one & it had the exact same problem 🤦♂️ So then I started thinking it wasn’t the abs module.. But as I still had my original abs module I sent it away to a company that test it. They come back saying there’s a fault in the hydraulic block which is connected to the abs pump.. I had no codes so even the Mazda dealer had no clue. Was happy to charge me $180 to bled the brakes though 🤦♂️🤦♂️ffs. So I got it repaired for $500. It’s a common fault with this model so be careful the wrecker part doesn’t play up as well.. if your keeping the car get it rebuilt..
I love my 06 Mazda 5 runs great but having this same issue. Changed my master cylinder. New front calipers new pads all the way around. Flushed and bled system. Was going to bleed this morning. I don’t even want to waste my time. Going to buy one of those abs pumps and see what happens. I can expect something else from this car to nickel and dime me just like your power steering. Smh.
Hey did you replace the abs mod and did that help with the problem? I have the same issue with my 2008 mazda 3. I've done the same thing as you. Had new brakes and calipers and rotors put on, new master cylinder and everything was flushed and bled all the way around. But still having issue of soft brakes
There are 2 pipe lines from master cylinder to abs and 4 lines from abs to wheels. I am curious why 2 lines goes to abs. Is it for a front and rear pairs? Is it for diagonals? Or is it "supply" and "return" and the valve in abs stuck in an open position and this is why fluid constantly leak back and making such noise?
Thanks for the detailed description, did you ever get to fix the steering wheel warning light? And was your brake pedal always that "clicky" while pressed down to max?
5:15 I did not get what is the size of the wrench at abs? Is it 10mm or smaller may be 3/8"? I am not sure why but bleed valves at my mazda front wheels are 3/8" and rear are 10mm. I guess the front parts came from ford (which is known to be identical to mazda).
Guys if you do this make sure to get the part number EXACT, I didn't think it would be a big deal and got the part off a same year car, and the plug was different. I didn't check the part number first because it's impossible to see without removing the part. So even though I have an 08 mazda 3, the abs module from an 08 didn't fit. The one that did fit was from an 05.
The sound after repair 26:00 looks fully identical to what was before repair 3:00 which you announced as the sign of issue . Was it really an abs issue or you just bleed system one more time (may be more carefully) and this fix the problem?
That's what I was thinking too. Your comment makes me feel a lot better. I had an extremely squishy brake pedal over night I think. I bled the brakes and it was night and day difference. I'm not mechanic or even medium diy'er, but I would think if my brakes got night and day better it would either just be air or at worst a master cylinder. Or seaping from my brake bleeder valves that seem a little suspicious from leaking a little bit by the threads when loosened. Did you have a brake issue? If so, how is it now and what fixed it?
@@GMoney-B My problem was in ABS unit. After I bleed brakes this occasionally fixed the problem (ABS valve temporally unfreeze). However few days/weeks after that when I was riding at a parking lot at only 5mph and I run over an empty plastic bottle, I press brake to stop in front of the curb, then feel that my front wheel starts slipping, feel that ABS starts work. Right after that the brake pedal instantly got spongy again. Second bleed did not worked out. After that I decided to replaced ABS unit and bleed brake lines again. This did fix everything. My video is here ruclips.net/video/wFZA2wh7mfk/видео.html but it is in Russian. Comments are mostly about how to dismount
@@GMoney-B >> few days/weeks after that Now I believe it does not matter how many days passed after first successful bleeding. It just broke again at first time then ABS triggered again.
@@u-tub7072 Thank you for your replies. Any reply/tips are gold to at least point in the right direction, for troubleshooting anyway. Just because of how involved the abs is, I will be trying out some other methods first. I also found that my 2012 mazda 3 has a criss cross brake line arrangement. So I was bleeding the brakes starting from the farthest to the closes, when I should have bled them Left rear, front right, right rear, left front. Hopefully that will do it. My brakes after first bleeding are almost there so I am hoping and thinking that it's just air. Also seemed to firm up in the heat of summer. I'm not mechanic or engineering expert, but I would not be surprised if it firmed up because of the expansion of hot air in the brake lines, but who knows in regards to that.
I think I have the same issue. I have a 2008 Mazda 3 that I had to slam on the brakes at a red light, but the car kept going. I do not see fluid coming out anywhere. I replaced the master cylinder and its a bit better, but not the same still spongy. It makes a similar noise to what you demonstrated too. My ABS light is not on at all though. Any other things to check not mentioned in your video?
The ABS light was not on in my vehicle either. It was quite confounding and the car sat for a while until I could figure out a plan of attack. Part of the wait was figuring out what OBD2 cable to get to enable the ABS system cycling function with the FORScan application. Even though I believe I have the best cable with the most functionality, the function still did not appear in FORScan. I ended up waiting until some snow accumulated again to cycle the ABS many more times to no avail. I went ahead and ordered a master cylinder while dealing with the software/cable issue, but that ended up being a bad choice, although I did learn to replace a master cylinder as I've not done that before, so there was some positive to that. I hated not being able to run the factory ABS internal bleeding function, but turns out it likely would not have helped anyways.
Hydraulic block not ABS pump., 100% that was your issue. No codes & spongy brakes & pedal to the floor randomly. ✅✅✅ Rebuild hydraulic block & reinstall & it will be perfect, Trust me. 2yrs too late though 😂🤣😂
Hi Nitra, So after I replaced my ABS module, I bled the brakes in the right order. The first and third tire that I bled poured out brake fluid for about 10-20 pushes of the brake pedal. And then for several pushes air came out. I'd say this air was from the ABS module. and then it went back to fluid. The reason the second and fourth bleed didn't give me air is because I had already got the air out from the previous tire. It has to do with the brakes being in like two separate circuits, 2 tires per circuit. All I can say for sure, is that all I did was replace it, and then bleed the brakes, and my car is working perfectly.
I’m not disputing anything, just trying to understand because I have a similar problem and see that a lot of folks say that bleeding the ABS module will fix the issue. I also read that a scan tool might be required, what I don’t understand is why you need a scan tool if all the valves are NO.
@@nitramircea321 If some sort of bleeding of the abs module separately from the brakes was needed, I didn't do it. I'm by no means very knowledgeable about working on cars. And if you have a different type of car then I'd have no idea. All I can speak to is my Mazda 3. Good luck, and God bless with your issue!
@@Patch4christ I was having braking issues recently, seemed like over night I had a squishy pedal. I bled the brakes (not in the right criss cross order first time) and it was night and day difference but still a little sinking pedal at the end of the pedal stroke/at a stand still holding the brake. After reading your comment though, I am feeling like this might solve my issue. Thanks for sharing!
Hi, the clunk or click you described at the bottom of the brake pedal travel (near the end of the video) did this go away after driving around? I'm having an identical issue apart from my pedal being firm with the car off. Thank you in advance.
It's been a while now so it is difficult to recall, but I would have to say yes, it did go away. I don't recall having any brake feel oddness after driving the car for a few weeks after everything was buttoned up.
abs pump needs to bleed out after replacing. got problem with rear caliper, all of the brake fluid were gone from the brakes, probably also from the abs pump as well. after replacing caliper for a new one and bleeding out all 4 calipers my brake pedal were still kind a soft. brakes were working but that was not the same as before. the brakes couldn't even acivate abs during braking on the loose gravels, reason? abs pump had no brake fluid.
Yep!! You need to bleed the brakes with the battery out., If your battery was still connected it closes the door on the abs pump., Then it creates a big air bubble. 2yrs too late.. Sorry.
Hey Swapmaster General i saw you were able to to get your power steering working and quietly, i was wondering whether or not the car needed and reprogramming or you were able to just swap the pump and pump module? it would be a huge help to me if you could reply, thanks
@@swapmastergeneral1247 FYI: The Mazda 3 uses ATF Dexron fluid for power steering. Its indicated in the owners manual. Good job on the power steering fix. You must have some electronics background, you noticed a bad cap and didnt call it a round thingy, lol.
Hi Swapmaster - my sister's 2007 Mazda 3i has the stuck dump valve in ABS hydraulics resulting in soft brake pedal through the top 40% of travel, then brakes work as normal. The ABS pump swap is beyond my mechanical experience and the car, though nice, doesn't have the value to merit the $1500 a mechanic quoted for removing, rebuilding, and reinstalling the ABS pump. My question: is this condition dangerous? Is there a possibility of catastrophic failure? Thank you!
I would judge the safety of this situation in two ways. First - can the brakes be fully engaged to ABS activation in the dry every time? If not, then the vehicle does not possess its full braking power and is not safe. If this first condition is true, but if your sister does not feel safe driving the car this way, then the car is not safe for her. Any vehicle someone does not feel safe driving IS unsafe IMHO. The only way this is ok is if there is full braking power on every activation of the brakes and she is ok with it. I've driven cars where the brakes need bled terribly and I don't feel safe driving it, although I can activate ABS on a dry road with the pedal just off the floor. The owner was used to this feel and felt safe, but I did highly recommend getting the brakes bled so that they felt more confident to use.
@@swapmastergeneral1247 - thank you very much for breaking down your response to clear criteria that I can apply to my sister's car and whether she feels safe driving it. I will test brake function with full emergency stops to ABS activation [or absence of ABS activation!]. If ABS engages and the brakes are fully functional, I will share the results of the test with my sister and ask her whether she feels safe operating the car. If ABS doesn't activate or the brakes misbehave in any way during panic stops, the next step will be either [1] replacing the ABS pump, [2] selling the car with full disclosure, or [3] junking the car. It's an interesting human factor that my sister never thought the sinking pedal was a problem - she didn't recall a time the pedal didn't sink, so in her experience that's 'just how her car was'.
@@sfdownhill Lance, I would add another thing to think about. The condition will probably degrade. So even it is checks ok today using Swapmaster's criteria, what about tomorrow. The same condition in my daughter's car eventually got worse and worse. Eventually pushing all the way to the floor will not stop the car. If you can do any work on a car, you can change this unit. The issue is bleeding the brakes. In the worst case, change the unit yourself, then have a pro bleed the brakes later. You can drive the car to a shop yourself using the emergency brake or have it towed for $100. The unit can be purchased as reconditioned under $200. Junk yard used, under $100.
Did you test out the ABS after replacing the pump? I'm about to do this, but I'm scared of testing the ABS after because the pump might go bad again, yet I still want to know that the ABS will work when I need it to.
@@swapmastergeneral1247 Welp just replaced it and didn't fix shit lol. Braking is slightly better, but still sucks. In fact, now there is a slight whistle that I didn't notice before.
@@bobblefred45 Most likely the part you got from the yard was already busted and that is my exact fear of replacing mine. Mine's been broken since 2018.
Question, my 2006 Mazda3 HB 2,3L have a brake sticking, all caliper are OK, Every time when I push on brake, the front stay stick 5 secondes after ok, do you thing is my ABS system? the Rear are ok Thank !
I did not. I assumed for approximately the same model year range they would be the same. I believe the one I bought was off a 2004 model. I understand there are three assist levels that this pump supplies, basically three speeds. AFAIK, the input from the vehicle controls which speed it runs at based on vehicle speed. The only thing I believe the pump controller itself could be coded for is what those three preset speeds are. I surmise that this same pump in a heavier vehicle would not provide the same steering assist as it would in this Mazda 3, so if you got the same unit out of a Mazda CX-9, it could have different preset speeds that you may want to modify. Or maybe it would be good enough and you wouldn't care about this minutia.
I don’t know about that. Each model of Mazda has different characteristics (weight distribution, dimensions, wheel size, etc). Abs module not only does abs, but also assists with traction control and stability control (through abs). So every one of those vehicle specs will require different behaviour from the module. I think programming is a must.
@@swapmastergeneral1247 i have the same problem on my mazda 5, 2011, i change master cylinder, and it is the same i hear the air when i press brake pedal
So it was not clear to me, did you bleed the brakes again after replacing the ABS unit? Is it possible to replace the unit and not have to bleed the brakes. Also, did the used unit you put in for the repair, have brake fluid in it when installed?
Did you need to bleed the brake system before rmoving the ABS pump? I've got a warning light on my dash and the error code I'm reading is telling me there is a failure in the ABS pump. Needs to be removed and sent away for repair (big known Mazda 3 issue).
I'm not sure what bleeding the system before removing the ABS pump would buy you. You are going to have to bleed it afterwards anyways, so I'm not sure why you would do it specifically before removing the ABS pump.
@@rosssmith7306 If you mean evacuate the lines of fluid, I would not recommend that as you may run the master cylinder empty. It is more involved to also bleed the master cylinder if that happens. I would go to your local auto store and grab the cheap box of rubber hose caps like I have and plug the lines like I did. Very cheap and you will use these caps/plugs for many other home DIY projects as well.
This is bullshit.. it didn’t fix my problem., All the mechanics have no clue.. everything has been changed except the booster.. But the booster passes all the tests.. So master cylinder done, abs module done, bled the brakes 100’s.. & still the problem remains.. Mazda said we’ll change the booster because it’s the only thing we haven’t done. They want $2000 including labor 🤷♂️ But every other mechanic is telling me it’s not the booster.. 🤦♂️🤦♂️ So do I spend another $2k on a $8k car.. Time for a trade in!!
This video was not conclusive at all for your viewers your brakes still seem soft and spongy. You should not have a click as well. But the brake pedal should only move a short distance and instantly become firm and stop. Man I did see her foot pumping it and it looks spongy to me
Thanks so much for making/sharing this. You described the issue with my mazda 3 to the letter. After 5 years of stress and multiple mechanics failing to fix the issue, i just did it myself. But without your video, it may have never happened. I wish you and your family the best. God bless!
Thanks for this video. I finally got around do doing my Mazda 3 Sport 2005 here in the UK last week and you showed me the way bro. Slightly different, I had the warning light on the dash, been there for a few years now reading a fault code C1288 which is a common flaw in this model apparently. A garage fitting a new Mazda ABS module wanted about $1300 equivalent a few years ago. Ridiculous. I took the module off like you showed and sent it away to be re-conditioned and had it back inside 3 days (about $200). Refitted today, brakes bled, the light is finally out on the dash. It's a weight off my back for sure. Thanks again, guys like you taking time to make these videos really inspire and help people into DIY mechanics and save us lots of hard earned pay. Something I never thought I'd be able to tackle before.
Were your brakes spongy even with the engine off?.. I got the Traction control light but the brakes are firm with the engine off but feel like crap when engine is running. even after bleeding it was worse than before.
Did you have to configure the ABS Module? In other videos I see the people configuring it. Not sure if it's necessary or not.
I've been chasing a low pedal on my 2007 Mazda 3 (232K miles). Repeatedly bled, tried to bleed master Cyl on car ... repeated hard stops in snow or rain. ABS works at times, but not others. I have an inkling it might be the ABS pump too - thx for video.
Hey Norm. Any outcome to report on this? Would be hugely appreciated. Thanks
@@AudreysKitchen The car was crashed before we were able to fix, so no resolution.
I did not have huffing but all the symptoms you described. . Apparently, there is a valve that gets stuck inside the ABS module. I went on an unpaved road and started breaking activating the ABS. It took 6 tries. After that the brakes stiffened up and everything was fine. SO, do not replace the module unless you are 100% sure it is in fact bad.
My advice after living with it for 5 years now is to just be careful, never know when the ABS will engage and it will get stuck again in the open position. Right now yours probably is fine because it's currently closed and not stuck open. But if its happened once it will most likely happen again.
@@mcafeex311 oh, for sure. What I don't know is should I use ABS to "exercise" the valve or to avoid using ABS to preserve the "close" position...
@@bessarion1771
The first time mine broke, was when someone cut me off and the ABS engaged when I slammed on the brakes. The thing failed completely in the open position and I had to put the pedal to the floor to get the vehicle to stop. It was a scary moment, because it really felt like I didn't have any brakes at all. Right now I can tell mine is in a semi open/closed position. The brakes are kinda spongy, but I at least don't have to put the pedal to the floor to bring the car to a stop.
So knowing it can get stuck in the fully open position, my advice is to avoid engaging it.
I thought my problem was the ABS pump but just went to the garage. The brakes got hard after pumping with the engine off and no noise.
The brake pedal is soft at the top and goes almost to the floor to get it to stop. It will ABS stop but the back brakes seemed to lock up more then the front( that might not be true as I only saw it stop once) We were able to get some smoke from the rear tires and not smoke from the front. The master cylinder was recently replaced. Brakes were just bleed at a mechanics shop using a vaccume bleed. My next step is to do a bunch of ABS stop and see. I hear that might help. 5-6 abs stops. At least thats free. Cheers
Did you fix the problem? I’m having the same issue
Got an update to report?
@@khashayarjafari8151got an update for us? Thanks
Anybody find the fix ? I’m having the same issues but with the front brakes locking up got remanufactured brake booster and master cylinder.
Hey I did the hard stops last week and it did help some at first. The pedal doesnt go all the way to the floor anymore but now other stuff with braking feels a little weird
The clicking at the bottom is the pedal bottoming out. I got the same issue in my mazda 3. I hit the brakes and push them down till i feel the click cause they won't go any further and the car takes awhile to pull up. Doesn't attempt to skid or activate the ABS. After doing some research, i definitely will not get a wrecker car one. I'll get mine rebuilt. With how many people are saying there's has failed i feel like buying a used one is going to be a waste of money and time and won't fix the issue.. thanks for the video tho.
Exactly!! I had a wrecker one & it was bad.. So I started thinking maybe the module wasn’t the issue., But months later I sent it down to Melbourne & $400 got it rebuilt., Installed it yesterday & it’s now perfect!
@@johnathondennis5981 what's the name of the place that rebuilt urs?
@@harleyhem3381 I have a spare module. You can have it if you live in Sydney. That way you can send it away for repair & keep your car on the road until it comes back for installation..
@@johnathondennis5981 thanks bud. I had already swapped mine out to get my original rebuilt. Just trying to find someone to rebuild it.
You think the Mazda has annoying problems to repair, wait until that BMW 3 series gets over 100k miles! I recently had both a 2009 Mazda 5 and a 2003 BMW 325i in my driveway taking turns giving me repairs to do. Just sold the BMW and thankful I don't have to work on that thing ever again! Still working on the Mazda (and yes it has the mushy pedal after ABS problem too.)
I know this is old but If I use an abs module from the exact make, model,sub model and year as my car will I need to program it? Sorry if you answered this and I missed it.
Great video. Thanks so much for that! I’m going to give it a go on my 06 tomorrow.
Any luck?
Hello, I’m buying a used abs module for my 2013 Mazda 3i, the only difference between the car I bought it from and mine is that mine is a sedan and standard. Do I need to reprogram it or is it safe to just install it?
I bought a secondhand one & it had the exact same problem 🤦♂️
So then I started thinking it wasn’t the abs module..
But as I still had my original abs module I sent it away to a company that test it.
They come back saying there’s a fault in the hydraulic block which is connected to the abs pump.. I had no codes so even the Mazda dealer had no clue. Was happy to charge me $180 to bled the brakes though 🤦♂️🤦♂️ffs.
So I got it repaired for $500.
It’s a common fault with this model so be careful the wrecker part doesn’t play up as well..
if your keeping the car get it rebuilt..
I love my 06 Mazda 5 runs great but having this same issue. Changed my master cylinder. New front calipers new pads all the way around. Flushed and bled system. Was going to bleed this morning. I don’t even want to waste my time. Going to buy one of those abs pumps and see what happens. I can expect something else from this car to nickel and dime me just like your power steering. Smh.
Hey did you replace the abs mod and did that help with the problem? I have the same issue with my 2008 mazda 3. I've done the same thing as you. Had new brakes and calipers and rotors put on, new master cylinder and everything was flushed and bled all the way around. But still having issue of soft brakes
There are 2 pipe lines from master cylinder to abs and 4 lines from abs to wheels. I am curious why 2 lines goes to abs. Is it for a front and rear pairs? Is it for diagonals? Or is it "supply" and "return" and the valve in abs stuck in an open position and this is why fluid constantly leak back and making such noise?
So is it just gonna happen again when ABS triggers or is there a new fixed valve that is installed when they recondition it?
Thanks for the detailed description, did you ever get to fix the steering wheel warning light? And was your brake pedal always that "clicky" while pressed down to max?
5:15 I did not get what is the size of the wrench at abs? Is it 10mm or smaller may be 3/8"? I am not sure why but bleed valves at my mazda front wheels are 3/8" and rear are 10mm. I guess the front parts came from ford (which is known to be identical to mazda).
Did you have to reprogram the module?
Hahahha i came across your video because i did the same test to see if the abs works and this happened
Guys if you do this make sure to get the part number EXACT, I didn't think it would be a big deal and got the part off a same year car, and the plug was different. I didn't check the part number first because it's impossible to see without removing the part. So even though I have an 08 mazda 3, the abs module from an 08 didn't fit. The one that did fit was from an 05.
What's the size tools you used
You don't have a power steering issue it's just that the battery is loose
Thanks for the video. Nice work.
The sound after repair 26:00 looks fully identical to what was before repair 3:00 which you announced as the sign of issue . Was it really an abs issue or you just bleed system one more time (may be more carefully) and this fix the problem?
That's what I was thinking too. Your comment makes me feel a lot better. I had an extremely squishy brake pedal over night I think. I bled the brakes and it was night and day difference. I'm not mechanic or even medium diy'er, but I would think if my brakes got night and day better it would either just be air or at worst a master cylinder. Or seaping from my brake bleeder valves that seem a little suspicious from leaking a little bit by the threads when loosened. Did you have a brake issue? If so, how is it now and what fixed it?
@@GMoney-B My problem was in ABS unit. After I bleed brakes this occasionally fixed the problem (ABS valve temporally unfreeze). However few days/weeks after that when I was riding at a parking lot at only 5mph and I run over an empty plastic bottle, I press brake to stop in front of the curb, then feel that my front wheel starts slipping, feel that ABS starts work. Right after that the brake pedal instantly got spongy again. Second bleed did not worked out. After that I decided to replaced ABS unit and bleed brake lines again. This did fix everything. My video is here ruclips.net/video/wFZA2wh7mfk/видео.html but it is in Russian. Comments are mostly about how to dismount
@@GMoney-B >> few days/weeks after that
Now I believe it does not matter how many days passed after first successful bleeding. It just broke again at first time then ABS triggered again.
@@GMoney-B So I would force your ABS to trigger somehow again and see if the brake pedal is still hard or spongy again.
@@u-tub7072 Thank you for your replies. Any reply/tips are gold to at least point in the right direction, for troubleshooting anyway. Just because of how involved the abs is, I will be trying out some other methods first. I also found that my 2012 mazda 3 has a criss cross brake line arrangement. So I was bleeding the brakes starting from the farthest to the closes, when I should have bled them Left rear, front right, right rear, left front. Hopefully that will do it. My brakes after first bleeding are almost there so I am hoping and thinking that it's just air. Also seemed to firm up in the heat of summer. I'm not mechanic or engineering expert, but I would not be surprised if it firmed up because of the expansion of hot air in the brake lines, but who knows in regards to that.
Great video
I think I have the same issue. I have a 2008 Mazda 3 that I had to slam on the brakes at a red light, but the car kept going. I do not see fluid coming out anywhere. I replaced the master cylinder and its a bit better, but not the same still spongy. It makes a similar noise to what you demonstrated too. My ABS light is not on at all though. Any other things to check not mentioned in your video?
The ABS light was not on in my vehicle either. It was quite confounding and the car sat for a while until I could figure out a plan of attack. Part of the wait was figuring out what OBD2 cable to get to enable the ABS system cycling function with the FORScan application. Even though I believe I have the best cable with the most functionality, the function still did not appear in FORScan. I ended up waiting until some snow accumulated again to cycle the ABS many more times to no avail. I went ahead and ordered a master cylinder while dealing with the software/cable issue, but that ended up being a bad choice, although I did learn to replace a master cylinder as I've not done that before, so there was some positive to that. I hated not being able to run the factory ABS internal bleeding function, but turns out it likely would not have helped anyways.
Hydraulic block not ABS pump.,
100% that was your issue.
No codes & spongy brakes & pedal to the floor randomly.
✅✅✅
Rebuild hydraulic block & reinstall & it will be perfect, Trust me. 2yrs too late though 😂🤣😂
Don’t you have to bleed the abs module after replacing it? Otherwise it’s just air in the unit and no brake fluid.
Hi Nitra, So after I replaced my ABS module, I bled the brakes in the right order. The first and third tire that I bled poured out brake fluid for about 10-20 pushes of the brake pedal. And then for several pushes air came out. I'd say this air was from the ABS module. and then it went back to fluid. The reason the second and fourth bleed didn't give me air is because I had already got the air out from the previous tire. It has to do with the brakes being in like two separate circuits, 2 tires per circuit. All I can say for sure, is that all I did was replace it, and then bleed the brakes, and my car is working perfectly.
I’m not disputing anything, just trying to understand because I have a similar problem and see that a lot of folks say that bleeding the ABS module will fix the issue. I also read that a scan tool might be required, what I don’t understand is why you need a scan tool if all the valves are NO.
@@nitramircea321 If some sort of bleeding of the abs module separately from the brakes was needed, I didn't do it. I'm by no means very knowledgeable about working on cars. And if you have a different type of car then I'd have no idea. All I can speak to is my Mazda 3. Good luck, and God bless with your issue!
@@Patch4christ I was having braking issues recently, seemed like over night I had a squishy pedal. I bled the brakes (not in the right criss cross order first time) and it was night and day difference but still a little sinking pedal at the end of the pedal stroke/at a stand still holding the brake. After reading your comment though, I am feeling like this might solve my issue. Thanks for sharing!
Hi, the clunk or click you described at the bottom of the brake pedal travel (near the end of the video) did this go away after driving around? I'm having an identical issue apart from my pedal being firm with the car off. Thank you in advance.
It's been a while now so it is difficult to recall, but I would have to say yes, it did go away. I don't recall having any brake feel oddness after driving the car for a few weeks after everything was buttoned up.
Hi, I'm getting exactly the same clunk. Otherwise it stops fine. Thanks for the video
Thank you so much. Saved time and money. Great help.
abs pump needs to bleed out after replacing. got problem with rear caliper, all of the brake fluid were gone from the brakes, probably also from the abs pump as well. after replacing caliper for a new one and bleeding out all 4 calipers my brake pedal were still kind a soft. brakes were working but that was not the same as before. the brakes couldn't even acivate abs during braking on the loose gravels, reason? abs pump had no brake fluid.
Yep!! You need to bleed the brakes with the battery out.,
If your battery was still connected it closes the door on the abs pump., Then it creates a big air bubble.
2yrs too late.. Sorry.
Hey Swapmaster General i saw you were able to to get your power steering working and quietly, i was wondering whether or not the car needed and reprogramming or you were able to just swap the pump and pump module? it would be a huge help to me if you could reply, thanks
No reprogramming
@@swapmastergeneral1247 youve earned yourself a subscription thanks for the help
@@swapmastergeneral1247 FYI: The Mazda 3 uses ATF Dexron fluid for power steering. Its indicated in the owners manual.
Good job on the power steering fix. You must have some electronics background, you noticed a bad cap and didnt call it a round thingy, lol.
Hi Swapmaster - my sister's 2007 Mazda 3i has the stuck dump valve in ABS hydraulics resulting in soft brake pedal through the top 40% of travel, then brakes work as normal. The ABS pump swap is beyond my mechanical experience and the car, though nice, doesn't have the value to merit the $1500 a mechanic quoted for removing, rebuilding, and reinstalling the ABS pump. My question: is this condition dangerous? Is there a possibility of catastrophic failure? Thank you!
I would judge the safety of this situation in two ways. First - can the brakes be fully engaged to ABS activation in the dry every time? If not, then the vehicle does not possess its full braking power and is not safe. If this first condition is true, but if your sister does not feel safe driving the car this way, then the car is not safe for her. Any vehicle someone does not feel safe driving IS unsafe IMHO. The only way this is ok is if there is full braking power on every activation of the brakes and she is ok with it. I've driven cars where the brakes need bled terribly and I don't feel safe driving it, although I can activate ABS on a dry road with the pedal just off the floor. The owner was used to this feel and felt safe, but I did highly recommend getting the brakes bled so that they felt more confident to use.
@@swapmastergeneral1247 - thank you very much for breaking down your response to clear criteria that I can apply to my sister's car and whether she feels safe driving it. I will test brake function with full emergency stops to ABS activation [or absence of ABS activation!]. If ABS engages and the brakes are fully functional, I will share the results of the test with my sister and ask her whether she feels safe operating the car. If ABS doesn't activate or the brakes misbehave in any way during panic stops, the next step will be either [1] replacing the ABS pump, [2] selling the car with full disclosure, or [3] junking the car. It's an interesting human factor that my sister never thought the sinking pedal was a problem - she didn't recall a time the pedal didn't sink, so in her experience that's 'just how her car was'.
@@sfdownhill Lance, I would add another thing to think about. The condition will probably degrade. So even it is checks ok today using Swapmaster's criteria, what about tomorrow. The same condition in my daughter's car eventually got worse and worse. Eventually pushing all the way to the floor will not stop the car. If you can do any work on a car, you can change this unit. The issue is bleeding the brakes. In the worst case, change the unit yourself, then have a pro bleed the brakes later. You can drive the car to a shop yourself using the emergency brake or have it towed for $100. The unit can be purchased as reconditioned under $200. Junk yard used, under $100.
Did you test out the ABS after replacing the pump? I'm about to do this, but I'm scared of testing the ABS after because the pump might go bad again, yet I still want to know that the ABS will work when I need it to.
I don't think I did as there was never snow on the ground after that time and I didn't want to risk flat spotting my tires.
@@swapmastergeneral1247 Welp just replaced it and didn't fix shit lol. Braking is slightly better, but still sucks. In fact, now there is a slight whistle that I didn't notice before.
@@bobblefred45 Most likely the part you got from the yard was already busted and that is my exact fear of replacing mine. Mine's been broken since 2018.
Question, my 2006 Mazda3 HB 2,3L have a brake sticking, all caliper are OK, Every time when I push on brake, the front stay stick 5 secondes after ok, do you thing is my ABS system? the Rear are ok Thank !
hey, Did you had to reprogram / recode the new abs module?
I did not. I assumed for approximately the same model year range they would be the same. I believe the one I bought was off a 2004 model. I understand there are three assist levels that this pump supplies, basically three speeds. AFAIK, the input from the vehicle controls which speed it runs at based on vehicle speed. The only thing I believe the pump controller itself could be coded for is what those three preset speeds are. I surmise that this same pump in a heavier vehicle would not provide the same steering assist as it would in this Mazda 3, so if you got the same unit out of a Mazda CX-9, it could have different preset speeds that you may want to modify. Or maybe it would be good enough and you wouldn't care about this minutia.
I don’t know about that. Each model of Mazda has different characteristics (weight distribution, dimensions, wheel size, etc). Abs module not only does abs, but also assists with traction control and stability control (through abs). So every one of those vehicle specs will require different behaviour from the module. I think programming is a must.
@@dariog3038base model 3i doesn’t have dynamic control
Zoom Zoom I have the same problem 2006 Mazda 3
Your abs doesn’t work?
How much for the used ABS Pump?
It was $50, ironically a bit less expensive than what I paid for the master cylinder.
@@swapmastergeneral1247 i have the same problem on my mazda 5, 2011, i change master cylinder, and it is the same i hear the air when i press brake pedal
So it was not clear to me, did you bleed the brakes again after replacing the ABS unit? Is it possible to replace the unit and not have to bleed the brakes. Also, did the used unit you put in for the repair, have brake fluid in it when installed?
Had to check myself - 25:32 I mention that I bled the brakes. I don't recall the used unit leaking when I unpackaged it, but it's been a few months.
You have to bleed the brakes any time you open a closed system. If there is oil coming out, it’s being replaced by something else (ie air).
Did you need to bleed the brake system before rmoving the ABS pump?
I've got a warning light on my dash and the error code I'm reading is telling me there is a failure in the ABS pump. Needs to be removed and sent away for repair (big known Mazda 3 issue).
I'm not sure what bleeding the system before removing the ABS pump would buy you. You are going to have to bleed it afterwards anyways, so I'm not sure why you would do it specifically before removing the ABS pump.
@@swapmastergeneral1247 ok, I thought it may stop fluid coming out when you undo the lines to the pump?
@@rosssmith7306 If you mean evacuate the lines of fluid, I would not recommend that as you may run the master cylinder empty. It is more involved to also bleed the master cylinder if that happens. I would go to your local auto store and grab the cheap box of rubber hose caps like I have and plug the lines like I did. Very cheap and you will use these caps/plugs for many other home DIY projects as well.
This is bullshit.. it didn’t fix my problem., All the mechanics have no clue.. everything has been changed except the booster.. But the booster passes all the tests..
So master cylinder done, abs module done, bled the brakes 100’s.. & still the problem remains.. Mazda said we’ll change the booster because it’s the only thing we haven’t done.
They want $2000 including labor 🤷♂️ But every other mechanic is telling me it’s not the booster.. 🤦♂️🤦♂️ So do I spend another $2k on a $8k car..
Time for a trade in!!
@@johnathondennis5981 same here 😂
Save up for a windshield now
Have the same problem on my 2010
Hi, i wanna ask you pls, did u fix it ?
mi amigo no sea tonto, afloja al sentido del giro de las agujas del reloj, ojo en el minuto 15:40 en los videos educativos no debe de presentar fallas
This video was not conclusive at all for your viewers your brakes still seem soft and spongy. You should not have a click as well. But the brake pedal should only move a short distance and instantly become firm and stop. Man I did see her foot pumping it and it looks spongy to me
My son has a Mazda 3 2008. It does not have much miles on it. It’s one of the biggest pieces of shit out there. I’m a ford guy. Ford builds shot cars