I had a running toilet & bought this Inlet Valve. When I got to work on it, I couldn't unscrew the white nut under the cistern as the plastic of the toilet seat was wedged into the nut, so I gave up and called a plumber who quoted me $475 plus tax. Yours is the only video (which I just found after a week of trawling YT) that replaces the Inlet Valve by leaving the bottom half of itin place. So tomorrow I'm going to see if it works.
for $475 he was looking for an idiot. a good plumber wouldn't charge more than $150 to replace a standard fill valve that didn't have any major problems (meaning the toilet wasn't cracked, the nut pops off properly etc). $475 was because this was a less than 30 minute job for the plumber, and he didn't really want to do it in lieu of higher paying jobs and he didn't think yours was worth driving out for at his hourly rate, so he gave you the "idiot price"...meaning he knew that only an idiot would accept that exorbitant price so it would drive you away, but if you did, he made a nice payday.
OMG!!! If I did this in literally about 2 minutes, and only because I had to go back to the video and double check myself, anyone can! If I had to this again, he's right, it would take 1 minute or less! I feel so proud right now! Thanks for the short, clear, easy to understand video. For others who may not understand what a leaky valve is... when the toilet was done flushing, there was a little water coming out of the top of that part we are replacing. It was not leaking out by the flapper (different video I'm sure). How I ended up in this situation... We have two bathrooms at work. One was being used as a storage closet. Staff shared the one remaining bathroom. A new person came on staff and we got tired of cleaning up after a grown ass man who is capable of cleaning up after himself. So me and the other staff decided to clear out the "storage closet" and start using it as our private bathroom. This has been going on for 3 years or so, and I don't think the manager knows. In any event I didn't want call attention to the leaking valve and have him say, "well just use the other one". Then I'd have to explain. So we have a fixed private toilet and a clean one too. Thanks again!
If "leaking" means the fill valve is not shutting off, first thing to try is replace the small rubber fill valve seal, Fluidmaster part number 242, that is underneath the top cap on the valve assembly. Sometimes, just removing the cap and cleaning this seal and flushing out the valve solves the leaking problem. Even a small grain of sand can prevent the seal from shutting off the valve properly, thus the leak often accompanied by the hissing sound. The rubber seal deteriorates over time. Replacing or cleaning the seal is cheap and simple .. simpler than replacing the valve assembly.
Yep, he did not explain what he meant by the fill valve leaking. As you say, I think he meant the fill valve does not shut off when the water reached it's height in the water tank. Of course, if it doesn't stop filling the tank water will overflow over the top of that center overflow tube into the toilet and then you might call it leaking. Yes, that small rubber fill valve seal (under the gray cap in the original fill valve) is much cheaper and easy to remove. As I recall, you hold onto that arm and turn the gray cap just an 1/8" to the left is all it takes.
@@brendalu4665 He may not be a RUclipsr with his own video channel. You really should appreciate that he's given you some advice to potentially safe some money by replacing a very cheap seal. There is a saying ""God helps those who help themselves". It is a motto that emphasizes the importance of self-initiative and agency. In this particular case, it means for you to help yourself by searching YT for "How to replace a fill valve seal". Unless, you like to wait and wait for the chance that the OP makes videos.
I changed the upper part, but the fill valve did not shut off. I tried several times and several ways but the fill valve still didn't shut off. Some people say you can't just take the upper part otherwise it will break some mechanism. Perhaps I have to replace the whole thing.
I turned my line off from under the toilet and the tanl was drained and the valve was completely shut but the pump kept dripping water really fast is that normal or is that a leak?
If you need to buy the Fluidmaster 400A fill valve - please use my link:
✅ ✅ 🔥 amzn.to/3njzemG
Thanks
Just what I needed! Didn't want no dragged out video. I was done in a couple minutes flat, including water level adjustment. Thank you sir!
I had a running toilet & bought this Inlet Valve. When I got to work on it, I couldn't unscrew the white nut under the cistern as the plastic of the toilet seat was wedged into the nut, so I gave up and called a plumber who quoted me $475 plus tax. Yours is the only video (which I just found after a week of trawling YT) that replaces the Inlet Valve by leaving the bottom half of itin place. So tomorrow I'm going to see if it works.
for $475 he was looking for an idiot. a good plumber wouldn't charge more than $150 to replace a standard fill valve that didn't have any major problems (meaning the toilet wasn't cracked, the nut pops off properly etc). $475 was because this was a less than 30 minute job for the plumber, and he didn't really want to do it in lieu of higher paying jobs and he didn't think yours was worth driving out for at his hourly rate, so he gave you the "idiot price"...meaning he knew that only an idiot would accept that exorbitant price so it would drive you away, but if you did, he made a nice payday.
OMG!!! If I did this in literally about 2 minutes, and only because I had to go back to the video and double check myself, anyone can! If I had to this again, he's right, it would take 1 minute or less! I feel so proud right now! Thanks for the short, clear, easy to understand video. For others who may not understand what a leaky valve is... when the toilet was done flushing, there was a little water coming out of the top of that part we are replacing. It was not leaking out by the flapper (different video I'm sure). How I ended up in this situation... We have two bathrooms at work. One was being used as a storage closet. Staff shared the one remaining bathroom. A new person came on staff and we got tired of cleaning up after a grown ass man who is capable of cleaning up after himself. So me and the other staff decided to clear out the "storage closet" and start using it as our private bathroom. This has been going on for 3 years or so, and I don't think the manager knows. In any event I didn't want call attention to the leaking valve and have him say, "well just use the other one". Then I'd have to explain. So we have a fixed private toilet and a clean one too. Thanks again!
Excellent video, very detailed!
I was able to make my repair so easily after watching this video.
Thank you!
Thank you for this! I was able to fix the toilet in 5 minutes much appreciated.
THANK YOU SO MUCH! This saved me from calling a plumber!
If "leaking" means the fill valve is not shutting off, first thing to try is replace the small rubber fill valve seal, Fluidmaster part number 242, that is underneath the top cap on the valve assembly. Sometimes, just removing the cap and cleaning this seal and flushing out the valve solves the leaking problem. Even a small grain of sand can prevent the seal from shutting off the valve properly, thus the leak often accompanied by the hissing sound. The rubber seal deteriorates over time. Replacing or cleaning the seal is cheap and simple .. simpler than replacing the valve assembly.
That's where mine is leaking at the top.
Yep, he did not explain what he meant by the fill valve leaking. As you say, I think he meant the fill valve does not shut off when the water reached it's height in the water tank. Of course, if it doesn't stop filling the tank water will overflow over the top of that center overflow tube into the toilet and then you might call it leaking. Yes, that small rubber fill valve seal (under the gray cap in the original fill valve) is much cheaper and easy to remove. As I recall, you hold onto that arm and turn the gray cap just an 1/8" to the left is all it takes.
Does that rubber washer suppose have a pin hole through it?
Looks like the activating pin on lever went through it
@@richk3c
Wanna show me how?! Where’s your video?!
@@brendalu4665 He may not be a RUclipsr with his own video channel. You really should appreciate that he's given you some advice to potentially safe some money by replacing a very cheap seal. There is a saying ""God helps those who help themselves". It is a motto that emphasizes the importance of self-initiative and agency. In this particular case, it means for you to help yourself by searching YT for "How to replace a fill valve seal". Unless, you like to wait and wait for the chance that the OP makes videos.
I wish I would have seen this before replacing mine. It wasn’t leaking but now it is!
Exactly!!! How do I stop the leak???
I changed the upper part, but the fill valve did not shut off. I tried several times and several ways but the fill valve still didn't shut off. Some people say you can't just take the upper part otherwise it will break some mechanism. Perhaps I have to replace the whole thing.
Very helpful video.
I turned my line off from under the toilet and the tanl was drained and the valve was completely shut but the pump kept dripping water really fast is that normal or is that a leak?
Good video.. Thank you
OMG this saved me money not to have to pay a plumber to fix my toilet. Thank you!😊
Thank you..I fixed it
Thank you 😊
Thanks
Thanks!
Thank you 🙏
Title/description can be better. I need to fix leak from bottom of tank