Easy Fix For The Most Common Toilet Water Leak
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- Опубликовано: 11 май 2022
- Fluidmaster Gasket Rebuild Kit: amzn.to/3a1CxfL
Understanding how a toilet works and the most common parts to fail can save you a TON of time and money. I will show you how to fix the most common water leak I have experienced at my own home and also my rental units.
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I love your videos. You speak in a clear concise manner, have a good camera, good sound, and you don’t have background music!!!!
Thx!
“A one trip repair”… I recently had to replace the rubber seal on my bathroom washbasin. I hate to report it was a three trip, two day repair due to not buying ALL the right parts, doing the job on a Sunday, when the plumbing supply house was only open until noon. 😞
Thanks for this great video. I discovered a slow leak from under my tank and since it was just a couple of days after I had cleaned the toilet I thought there might be a connection. After learning about the bolt gaskets, I checked the bolts and one of them was wet. I tightened that bolt a little and now there's no leak. You made fixing the problem so quick and easy.
why don’t you prefer to put the “in between” nut between the bowl / seat and the tank? thanks - GREAT video
Thank you for the knowledge, I don't have anyone in my life I can turn to for issues like this...😢 my grandfather passed a few years ago
Solid seal but way over time to be replaced. I was taught that when the black comes off and on to you hands it’s time to replace. You explained very well thanks.
I recommend putting a towel splayed along the back of the toilet on the floor. This way, you can soak up any leaks and check the towel over the next couple of days to see if any water is leaking
When I replace parts in a toilet, I write a note inside the tank, above the waterline, in pencil, with date and what was replaced. That gives me an idea of how long that part was in service, or if there are other parts I should consider replacing before they fail.
I use a silver or red Sharpie and write install date on the part.
I believe my water line threads seem to be the issue but after I watched this, I'm going to make sure I check everything else too before I start messing with anything.
Thanks for the video. I changed my bolts and still had a leak. The instructions on the packet had me place a washer inside the tank between the bolt head and gasket. I still had a leak after that. I removed the washer and placed it like you showed and it worked like a charm.
I just want to thank you because this exactly happened today on my home. And let me tell you that the landlord is really a noob with this kind of stuff, so you helped him a lot.
(yes I'm home owner, why ? 🤣)
I as a women I love your DIY videos I trust your explanations. You tell me the WHY of what not to do and why it's better to do it the way your explaining or you give me choices. You also go slow enough so I can see 👀 exactly what what your doing. Thank You !
I'd add check the tank real close, look for a crack that could also cause a leak. Happened to me!
You have a higher tolerance for worn out rubber parts than i do. Theos babies are overdue. I am a firm believer in using a film of silicone grease on all surfaces of the rubber seals prior to assembly. I also usually put a light film on the SS/brass head & thread area and the porcelain spot where the bowl gasket contacts so that it doesn't grab. Not essential, but i feel that it adds to the ease of sealing and might add a bit of life to the seal in hard chlorinated water areas, which eat them alive.
Blue Shop towels show water drops very well
Good point 👍
I like your videos and suggestions . I was able to stop leak temporarily after tightening mounting screws. I have the whole kit in case I need to change it
Double nut works 100% all the time, washer and small nut under Tank, then rubber washer, washer and thick nut at mounting flange👍
Why do the tank bolts loosen up over time? Is there anything that can be done for that not to happen?
I used the tips in this video to fix my toilet last weekend. Other than having severely corroded tank bolts, it went just as shown. Thank you!
I have 4 toilets in my house. They are always giving me trouble. They get used very hard and leaks are just some of the problems. Great video, as always. You have become a trusted source of DIY advice. Thanks.
As soon as I saw the black mark on your fingertip, I knew the gaskets had to be replaced. Nice video.
Just change everything out when things like that fail. Usually when one thing fails the rest will start failing. Might as well change everything out while its apart.
Nah… mine started leaking. $20-30 fixed my problem instead of paying for and paying someone else to install a whole new toilet. It was easy, and I’m terrified about plumbing diy work.
@@militaryav8r
I am under the impression that Andrew Jones is referring to changing all of the seals and gaskets at the same time. I don't believe changing the wax ring would be wise with a just a tank leak, however. It's a different material and triple the hassle!
ruclips.net/video/yR2lgxy-htU/видео.html I would personally recommend replacing the ball float valve for a Fluidmaster float valve at the same time. The ball floats inevitably cave to the pressure and allow for a contained overflow leakage after failure. The Fluidmaster floats don't have as much leverage strain and hold up for over a decade.
@@GeorgeVCohea-dw7ou 😳 Can’t believe I didn’t see that. In that case, he’s right about that. I basically replaced everything that wasn’t porcelain when I opened mine up.
Nah, if my toilets leak, I'd sell the house and buy a newly made one.
@@ytsux9259 😂🤣😂🤣
I like to open the flapper by hand and push as much water down the hole as I can before sponging the remainder.
Great advice! Just replaced my entire toilet down in my basement due to its size not for a leak. The original one was like a 14 in from floor to a taller 16 in for the seat. The funny thing is whenever I’ve change a toilet, I forget to paint the wall behind it to match the current color. I noticed that in this video also. Thanks for the video
I am NOT surprised you have so many subscribers! I am binging on your videos SO helpful! You are awesome! 👏🏻🎉☀️
Thank you for this video.
Thanks, I found this perfect for my challenge ahead! Now I'm off to the toilet!
Great video as usual. I can't wait until your next one. I always learn valuable information from your videos. Keep them coming
Thanks so much for the great video! Probably saved me $350 on a plumber. Mine was in pretty rough shape… over 30 years old. The wing nuts were actually so corroded they snapped off in my fingers. Thankfully I was able to get the rest of the nut off. (This was the most difficult part for me.)
I followed your tip about not using the washer & nut under the top tank part… That should make easier to change out the next time.
Your video made the job much easier! Thanks again!
Thank you for teaching me something new. Really appreciate it.
Thank you for video...you did a great job. This same problem is what I had 3 times on same toilet. New parts etc...but I finally got it to stop leaking.
Thank you for making this video for us. You are great.
Excellent video. Very informative.
Thx for sharing
Thank you for your help.
Thanks for sharing this video!
Simple and straight to the point! - Thanks
You bet 👍
Exactly what I needed! Great video!! Thank you for sharing your knowledge!!
You bet!
Great info, thank you very much!
Thank you for showing how to fix a leaking toiled. Keep up the good work.
Thx James 👍
this helped so much, thanks a lot!
Thank you. Good information to have in my back pocket.
You bet!
Great information as usual. Ill keep it in my back pocket. Thank you
For sure 👍
Very informative and great video
Having to cut the nuts or drill the bolt heads off is always fun.
Thanks for this as I'm not that handy but I think I can do these steps in a leaky toilet also leaking at the same bolt.
I had a tiny drip. I tried tightening the bolt and it made the leak much worse. I had to replace both the bolts. I tried installing the mounting bolts your way and the tank still leaked. You should seal the gaskets with the extra washer and nut to the tank. Then mount the tank and use the washer,gasket, and nut.
thanks for the tip.
Well done!
Excellent video. Very clear. Thanks. 👍
You bet!
Thank you!
Gracias 😊
I'm looking forward to the "complete rebuild" video you said that's coming soon. 🙂
Wow amazing vedio...n such a really nice explanation....great job n thanks to nice vedio.
thank you very much very helpful
Thank you! I think I fixed my leak by tightening the bolt as shown. 🎉 Will check again in a bit to be sure it has stopped it. 🤞
Well done posting. Thanks
Thanks Robert!
Well done 👍
Thanks
That's a great and very helpful video thank you
Thanks!
Thanks for helping me changed mine. I ended up doing the 2 hex nuts option as it ensures a tight seal right from the tank. I couldnt do it the faster way, the balance always seems off and water keeps leaking out.
GOOD 👍 ADVICE SCOTT 😍😍😍
Thx 👍
Awesome video thank you so much.
You bet!
THANKS !!!!!
Thank you! 😅 Straight forward video ❤
Happy to help!
Great information and explanation! Did you ever make the video for the complete rebuild of all the components that you mentioned at the end of the video? Thanks!
I'm looking for that too. Can't find it. 😏
Thank god I thought I did it wrong by putting gasket on bottom of tank also like you did the second time phew… would of been so mad to have to go through all that again
I never liked the hex nut under the giant donut. I prefer the round nut. I also use gasket lubricant/sealant on the donut to bowl seal.
I would have put the 2nd rubber washer between the tank and the toilet. Putting it under the toilet with the washer and the nut defeats the purpose of stopping any water that escapes the rubber washer next to the bolt head inside the tank because once water makes it past that first washer it would leak out between the tank and toilet (porcelain against porcelain does not seal) Just my thought... Great video as always. Thank you!
I have a total of seven toilets here at my summer cottage colony so i’ve done this repair numerous times over the last 20 some odd years. I fully agree that he should’ve put the rubber washer, metal washer, and thin nut on the bottom of the tank prior to putting it to the bowl because underneath the bowl, should only be a metal washer and a nut.
You need to have a totally sealed tank before you put it on the bowl! I test my tank at that point by putting it on some two by fours outside and filling it with some water just to make sure it’s not leaking.
I agree with this method. The tank and bowl do not sit flush against each other anyway, meaning the two units will be pulled up against each other when bolting the tank to the bowl. This can cause a crack, whereas if you do bolt, gasket, tank, gasket, washer, nut, this only compressed the tank. Much better method which is what my 40 year old toilets used.
@@StishFicks Over time the rubber washer inside the tank become thinner and you need to tighten the nut between the tank and bowl to compensate but it is inconvenient to do. You will only tighten the nut under the bowl whenever is needed anyway. The nut in between eventually is not really useful and just make replacing the bolt and rubber more difficult later.
Where do you get part numbers for gaskets. I have been everywhere and nobody has parts for my Kohler toilet. What a pain on the ass. Thanks kohler!!!
Excellent explanation. Thanks so much.
great help, thanks. (Also wowed by all the other gems on your superb web site) Yet near the end, you tell us to learn more via a separate video for checking out/fixing other potentially failing tank components..... But nothing there yet where you point.... Still coming soon? (I'm esp. suspecting I've got a bad seal where the overflow tube meets the tank floor... Is that covered?)
It's better to compress the bolt gasket with the sub nut then mount the tank. It's a sure thing. Some replacement bowl compression gaskets cause issues when mounting and keeping it level and secure. It's especially touchy with the 3-bolt mounting method.
Nice 👍
To empty the tank of water, flush like you did but then use a grout sponge. If you are changing the toilet, they are great at emptying the bowl and then being used as a plug so water does not drip when you are removing the bowl from your home. They are cheap and super absorbent. Any water cleanup is very quick using the grout sponge, and you can of course clean (as necessary) and reuse. I always keep an old grout sponge in my plumbing go bag.
That’s why I use my wet/dry vac to drain bowl and tank before work and/or shutdown of water for winter at summer cottages.
Or use a wet/dry vacuum
You're forgetting, or Don't know that the bottom nut/wing nut has nothing to do with how well the bolt rubber gaskets are sesling inside the tank. There is another nut on the same bolt that sandwiches the tank material that determines how tightly the rubber washers inset are set. The wing nut on the bottom thst attache the tank to the bowl only determines how well the tank is attached to the bowl.
Another source of dripping water is Tank Sweating. It is not a common issue but does come up occasionally. A simple fix is to disassemble the tank removing all components. Dry the inside of the tank. I prefer to wipe it down with acetone/brake cleaner as well. Coat the inside of the tank with Flex Seal or a spray on truck bed liner. let dry/cure and reassemble. I prefer to sandwich the tank with the rubber seals, washer and tighten the tank bolts to the tank then mount the tank to the bowl, even if I have to purchase two extra flat washers. I also recommend replacing the supply line at every service. Once the water is back on your still not done. Place some dry TP under the valve and check back periodically for wet spots. Old valves have a tendency to leak from the stem if they have not been operated for a long time. That can be fixed with some stem packing and Plumbers Grease. It is not rocket science but toilets are more complex than most realize.
I have a total of seven toilets here at my summer cottage colony so i’ve done this repair numerous times over the last 20 some odd years. I fully agree that he should’ve put the rubber washer, metal washer, and thin nut on the bottom of the tank prior to putting it to the bowl because underneath the bowl, should only be a metal washer and a nut.
You need to have a totally sealed tank before you put it on the bowl! I test my tank at that point by putting it on some two by fours outside and filling it with some water just to make sure it’s not leaking.
Also, there are two types of tank to bowl gaskets. One thinner and one thicker and I’ve needed both types.
I’ve never heard of using flex seal or similar to stop sweating tanks. Does that really work? Because I’ve had one here that’s got the problem and putting in the mixing valve for a bit of hot water to adjust the water temperature from being so cold is what’s necessary to fix it in most cases.
@@JohnHallgren Flex Seal Has worked every time I have used it for sweating tanks. I will say that mine are generally caused By High Traffic though and are in a fairly consistent temp (residential). The other and older solution is gluing in thin closed cell foam to the inside of the tanks. That works well with older, larger tanks.
Edit.. When I say thin closed cell foam I am talking about sheets of flexible packing foam/plastic.
@@jamieminton172 I am aware of the foam liner technique but haven’t tried that on this particular unit. During humid summer days with a non-air-conditioned cottage and quite cold water supply, it’s a perfect recipe for sweating tanks.
I was thinking alternative way of trying to incorporate some sort of a in-line tank or coil that would hold about the 2.5 gallons needed to fill the tank so it could warm itself prior to going into the tank to room temperature.
@@JohnHallgren We used to build "Preheaters" for water heaters. Basically a Black box covered with plexiglass and black pipe run inside and in line with the supply. the box was placed on the roof to collect sunshine. Forest service cabins in Alaska. Not a lot of head pressure, non potable off of up country streams. It was a pain to winterize but it worked well. I would give Flex Seal a go. It is relatively inexpensive and what's the worst case... I doesn't work... Then go with the foam, I would guarantee it if I were your contractor.. the foam that is. LOL
Typically, the condensation is from constant running water. Bc of how cold it is, and how long it's been running, it never gets up to room temperature. It just keeps sweating
Hi advice please ! New house to me. I have done constant repairs to this toilet cimerron Koehler toilet. New guts and new bolts. But the tank came loose and when I pushed on it to ck it out it made a noise. One side was really loose so I tightened the bolt another noise. Now I can see the base area where bolt goes through has not cracked but broken but still sitting there by bolt. Can I use porcelain epoxy and fix this and then reseat tank??? I bought this stuff for 43 dollars but before doing want to make sure it will work. I thought I could just do it around the bolt while tank attached but now I think I have to take off and of course that one or both screws are really tight. When I first started all the repairs I had to hacksaw off all bolts on the 20 year old toilet. I did get it fixed and now this? Thanks Kathy hope you answer quickly
You should really put a 2nd rubber washer, metal washer and nut on the bottom side of the tank to make the tank water proof and not rely on the pulling of the nut at the end of your assembly underneath the bowl.
Fluidmaster make a fill valve with a concentric float ( in both bottom and side entry variants ) the valve is plastic bodied and also the thread used to be, but they do one with a brass 1/2" thread - which IMHO is much better than the plastic thread, which can stretch over time and be impossible to re-tighten if it does leak.
Well done! Watched a little too late, bought new toilet!!
Quick ? Nothing to do with this particular video but, have a 15 yr home in Canada the fruit cellar for whatever reason has suddenly started to become wet inside and freeze in winter never had issue before. It is vented (2) has a steel door. Also sump pump is in this rm . Do u have any suggestions as to what could be happening? Ty so much .
Definitely just had an issue where the tank was too close to the wall. I tightened it down and cracked the tank. The previous owners had the wrong size toilet for the spot so a new one would have been needed anyway but it was not fun to clean everything up.
just replaced all parts in tank. Leaking from the screws that hold tank to bowl. Will the screw gaskets expand with water over time? If not, the other problem is i tightened all the way down and tank is touching bowl. So cant tighten anymore. So real life struggles hommie. Messed up
Leak is fixed, but tank is wobbly. I've tightened the bolts and they will not budge to go any tighter. Why is this happening? Is there a solution?
Great video. All killer no filler. My tank seems to wobble after install and the nuts appear to be tight. Any advice?
Sounds like maybe your flange is high and/or floor is unlevel.
I have this problem and I'm a renter. Do I have to fix this problem myself or inform the management
I got a new korky flapper and new fluidmaster flapper. Still leaks. I also had a new korky flush valve. Still leaks. What to do? It leaks into the toilet from the bowl
I have to do this soon, mine leaks when flushed
Could anyone tell me where to put silicone on a shower floor drain in a wetroom,as it all split and im not sure just where to put the new silicone. Many thanks.
Buy everything you think you will need. Change your supply hose. Then return what you dont need.
I have an Eijer toilet and the handle is on the opposite side of the tank from the where the water comes in from the wall, so 20 inch line to a plastic wing nut type,,,but there is so little space between the bowl and the wing nut, that someone had to grind off the wing and all the gradations, so I have found it impossible to get a grip to take that wing nut off so i can remove the tank. Other than taking a sledge hammer to the tank, what is the solution ?
this was GREAT, thank you. i did the replacement with a new kit. there seems to be a very very small drip from the tank bolts. maybe three drops a day.
should i just let it go or try to re-tighten? i’m afraid to crack the porcelain by tightening more.
there’s 20x more water from stepping out our of the shower.
appreciate your advice here.
again, thank you and Happy Holidays
A size 3 diaper soaked up the leftover water
if you leave cake under the toild will it ruin it tooo
thank you very much - but you could have finally painted that patch behind the water tank on the wall!!!
In reference to securing the bolts before replacing the tank, you said, "I don't prefer that method." But then you didn't tell us why. Another video said he DID prefer to tighten them first, and actually explained why (to make sure that a new leak doesn't happen if the tank shifts.). That sounds right. But since you gave no reason for your opinion, i'll go with him.
Without the nut under the tank makes it easier to replace the bolt and rubber washer next time around because you don't have to remove the tank and the nut in between.
great video but there was one problem. at one point you said you don't prefer to use the thin underside washers BUT you didn't say why so I understand it better.
I said the same thing. Personally, I can't think of any benefit from not fastening the nut underneath the reservoir though. I've seen how easily they can start leaking if the reservoir gets jarred around. They should be able to move independently from each other without risking the seal. Especially since everything's apart, it would be "best practice"
@@dribblez609 and I agree also!
I have a total of seven toilets here at my summer cottage colony so i’ve done this repair numerous times over the last 20 some odd years. I fully agree that he should’ve put the rubber washer, metal washer, and thin nut on the bottom of the tank prior to putting it to the bowl because underneath the bowl, should only be a metal washer and a nut.
You need to have a totally sealed tank before you put it on the bowl! I test my tank at that point by putting it on some two by fours outside and filling it with some water just to make sure it’s not leaking.
For me, it leaks from the exact same place, but it stops when i close the valve, does that mean it's the water line i need to fix ?
buy a tank kit with 4 rubber washers, two inside toilet tank, two on bottom of tank with flat metal washers on back of rubber washers on the bottom of tank, then small nut, then metal washer on bottom of toilet bowl and bigger nut, dont over tighten
Isn’t it better to get solid brass bolts?