I use the paper filter in the sump like many others but also MAP's return filter as well. One good thing about having the return filter is that any clutch swarf or material that makes its way to the engine crankcase has to go through the return filter before returning to the sump. I think the copper tubing looks cool but remember that copper work hardens over time and on a bike that is known to shake a bit you could have some potential cracks form as well. If tubing was a necessity, i'd go with stainless tubing or similar.
I home made a simple alteration to allow a simple and inexpensive paper oil filter to be fit to the bottom of the oil in frame tube. Added a magnet and it works very well. It all looks stock and filters much better than the old metal screen. All these external connections make me nervous.
So, I’m particularly interested to hear how this modification is working for you. I would love to install a filter before the pump as you have. But I’ve read that it is a bad idea. Can you share how the filter is working out for you?
I have to wonder if the original pump produces enough pressure to route the oil through the filter with enough volume.. The filter is essentially a restriction for what is originally a minimal oiling system. I've left my 66 TR6R stock and it's still running after all of these years with no bottom end service.
BIG MISTAKE !!!! Oil filter is always on the return side: 1) it's a higher capacity pump. 2) if it's on the feed side the pump has to suck oil through it, which it's not good at, and you can get cavitation = no oil. 3) when the filter get's restricted with deposits the engine will be starved of oil !
Hello Derick. A great video. I'm just starting to take the year to clean up and work my own 79 T140E. Might I ask? How did you achieve your currently leak-free gasket surfaces? Thanks, Brian
If you are talking about the oil in frame filter sump plate. I stuck a sheet of medium sand paper to a flat work surface and spent about 1/2 an hour rubbing sump plate mating surface until it was flat. I put all the gaskets and internal oil filter back using silicone gadget, then waited until the silicone had set before refilling the bike with oil. If you join the Facebook Group "Triumph 650 & 750 Twins OIF" and search through my posts you will see pictures of me doing the sump plate. facebook.com/groups/315323709546199
@@relph3 I cut my own gaskets from 1/32" (0.8mm) gasket paper, and fit them with just a smear of grease. Never had a leak, and all it takes to clean the surfaces is a wipe with a rag.
Hi Derick, Another interesting modification nicely presented. My bike is a 81 model and only a week or so ago I bought the same filter holder. I like your pipe routing. I'm thinking of using steel braided 10mm hoses. Did you keep the Top hat or Charlies filter in the sump ? Dave
Yes I have kept original filter in the sump. I probably could remove it but that would mean disturbing the currently leak free gasket surfaces. I cleaned it all out about 9 months ago.
You are adding to much of a restriction for your oiling system. The stock oil pump is not designed to pull oil through that much of a restriction. Very bad idea to do this mod to your engine. Please don't anyone else do this.
Sorry but that is a very very bad idea. It was correct on the return line before. Now you will create a massive problem and may distroy the engine by doing that. Its very bad enginering practice and do hope no one tries to do this. Put a Charlies filter in the tank if you have, they work ok and are desined to do that. But please swap this back to how it was originaly.
Just to clarify you advocate having the filter on the pressurised side of the system that goes to the rockers and top of the frame/tank. The alternative would be from the base of the Frame/ Tank which is gravity fed and sucked into the engine ?
@@rorybeaumont All filters should be after the pump on the pressure side or tank retun line. Putting a filter on the inlet side will cause pump cavitation and may even collapese the lines. A gauze strainer on the inlet is fine and is all that is necessary. The bike is fitted with one already that just needs washing out.
@@rorybeaumont The Norton type spin on type oil filter MUST be connected to the return or pressure side from the pump. It is designed to do only that. It is not designed to work on the suction side of the pump as the pressure drop over that type of filter is pretty high and can result in immense low pressure cavitation issues occurring in the circuit, and even collapse flexible type hoses, especially at high engine speeds when you want the best oil flow over the bearings possible. . From Best Engineering practice, only a strainer free flow type filter should be fitted to the suction side of any pump. I believe some people us a Charlies type filter in the bottom of the oil column, but I would not recommend even that. You only need one oil filter of 10 to 15 microns in any circuit. Any others you include in the circuit are not doing anything other than restricting flow. I do hope you find this information of use.
Hi; I have a modified timing cover with the feed directly there like a car. In that system I had an external filter; on top of external filter mount have a device to screw the oil switch and the oil gauge line. Also have a N Hyde oil cooler plus a rotary pump. I put 10000km per year on these old bikes. I use it as transportation I am not a Sunday hopper...
Nice motorcycle it looks like it's new you take very good care of it
I use the paper filter in the sump like many others but also MAP's return filter as well. One good thing about having the return filter is that any clutch swarf or material that makes its way to the engine crankcase has to go through the return filter before returning to the sump. I think the copper tubing looks cool but remember that copper work hardens over time and on a bike that is known to shake a bit you could have some potential cracks form as well. If tubing was a necessity, i'd go with stainless tubing or similar.
For years I m driving with a paper type oilfilter in the bottom off the oilframe ....easy cheap and clean fitting......
I home made a simple alteration to allow a simple and inexpensive paper oil filter to be fit to the bottom of the oil in frame tube. Added a magnet and it works very well. It all looks stock and filters much better than the old metal screen. All these external connections make me nervous.
So, I’m particularly interested to hear how this modification is working for you. I would love to install a filter before the pump as you have. But I’ve read that it is a bad idea. Can you share how the filter is working out for you?
I have to wonder if the original pump produces enough pressure to route the oil through the filter with enough volume.. The filter is essentially a restriction for what is originally a minimal oiling system. I've left my 66 TR6R stock and it's still running after all of these years with no bottom end service.
All of these oil filter kits have to be fitted to the return, as it will not work on the feed.
Top of the oil filter housing is very close to the bottom of the swinging arm??
I’m reading on forums that this will starve the engine of oil
How’s it been so far?
BIG MISTAKE !!!! Oil filter is always on the return side: 1) it's a higher capacity pump. 2) if it's on the feed side the pump has to suck oil through it, which it's not good at, and you can get cavitation = no oil. 3) when the filter get's restricted with deposits the engine will be starved of oil !
Hello Derick. A great video. I'm just starting to take the year to clean up and work my own 79 T140E. Might I ask? How did you achieve your currently leak-free gasket surfaces? Thanks, Brian
If you are talking about the oil in frame filter sump plate. I stuck a sheet of medium sand paper to a flat work surface and spent about 1/2 an hour rubbing sump plate mating surface until it was flat. I put all the gaskets and internal oil filter back using silicone gadget, then waited until the silicone had set before refilling the bike with oil.
If you join the Facebook Group "Triumph 650 & 750 Twins OIF" and search through my posts you will see pictures of me doing the sump plate.
facebook.com/groups/315323709546199
@@relph3 I cut my own gaskets from 1/32" (0.8mm) gasket paper, and fit them with just a smear of grease. Never had a leak, and all it takes to clean the surfaces is a wipe with a rag.
Hi Derick, Another interesting modification nicely presented. My bike is a 81 model and only a week or so ago I bought the same filter holder. I like your pipe routing. I'm thinking of using steel braided 10mm hoses. Did you keep the Top hat or Charlies filter in the sump ? Dave
Yes I have kept original filter in the sump. I probably could remove it but that would mean disturbing the currently leak free gasket surfaces. I cleaned it all out about 9 months ago.
I think you meant in frame oil reservoir and not sump?
You are adding to much of a restriction for your oiling system. The stock oil pump is not designed to pull oil through that much of a restriction. Very bad idea to do this mod to your engine. Please don't anyone else do this.
Copper can " work harden "
Not a good idea and as Dave Whellers said very bad engineering practice! Spin on oil filters must always be on the pressure side of the pump.
Sorry but that is a very very bad idea. It was correct on the return line before. Now you will create a massive problem and may distroy the engine by doing that. Its very bad enginering practice and do hope no one tries to do this. Put a Charlies filter in the tank if you have, they work ok and are desined to do that. But please swap this back to how it was originaly.
Just to clarify you advocate having the filter on the pressurised side of the system that goes to the rockers and top of the frame/tank. The alternative would be from the base of the Frame/ Tank which is gravity fed and sucked into the engine ?
@@rorybeaumont All filters should be after the pump on the pressure side or tank retun line. Putting a filter on the inlet side will cause pump cavitation and may even collapese the lines. A gauze strainer on the inlet is fine and is all that is necessary. The bike is fitted with one already that just needs washing out.
@@rorybeaumont The Norton type spin on type oil filter MUST be connected to the return or pressure side from the pump. It is designed to do only that. It is not designed to work on the suction side of the pump as the pressure drop over that type of filter is pretty high and can result in immense low pressure cavitation issues occurring in the circuit, and even collapse flexible type hoses, especially at high engine speeds when you want the best oil flow over the bearings possible. . From Best Engineering practice, only a strainer free flow type filter should be fitted to the suction side of any pump. I believe some people us a Charlies type filter in the bottom of the oil column, but I would not recommend even that. You only need one oil filter of 10 to 15 microns in any circuit. Any others you include in the circuit are not doing anything other than restricting flow. I do hope you find this information of use.
Thank you. As a layman that makes sense to me. I'm now curious why people say they can be connected the other way !
Hi; I have a modified timing cover with the feed directly there like a car. In that system I had an external filter; on top of external filter mount have a device to screw the oil switch and the oil gauge line. Also have a N Hyde oil cooler plus a rotary pump. I put 10000km per year on these old bikes. I use it as transportation I am not a Sunday hopper...