Removing A Broken Brake Bleeder
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- Опубликовано: 1 фев 2017
- Videos don't always go as planned and sometimes broken bleeders don't come out of the caliper as planned! For instance in this videos a bit of heat and pounding and out they come! I was hoping to show the shocking method of removing a brake bleeder using heat and water but I am sure as the sun will come up tomorrow that we will have some more frozen bleeders in our future ! Enjoy!
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Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not South Main Auto Repair. 
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My method was:
1. Drill out the bleeder
2. Snap an Easy-out off inside it
3. Buy a new caliper
Hahaha. My method has always been totally destroy the caliper trying these methods, then go out and by a rebuilt caliper
Sounds about right!
LOL, came here to post the exact same.
You made me laugh. That's always a good thing. Yep .......you hit it right on the head
I'm just curious why he didn't weld his Infamous eight millimeter nut to it with his MIG welder. And then Wrench it out
"That tells me they didn't make them". Best Dorman comment ever.
In Pittsburgh we never get this far; the frame usually breaks when we try to lift it
Lol you know here in Georgia we can still bleed brakes on cars from the 90’s with 200k plus miles on them lol. Spent 19 years in PA and have now been in GA for 10 and I’ll never go back
LOL
2491kridge I’m in Canada this fine cold morning it goddam cold out the snow is nice and packed rust sucks here in Ontario Canada you guys are so lucky wen it comes to climate 4 days till Xmas and I’m outside freezing trying to get a broken brake bleeder screw of I got a little can of propane that don’t get hot enough keeps me a little warm though lol I have another caliper but I really want to get this dam bleeder screw out I guess im stubborn I have enough of the bleeder left I can hit it with a chisel and hammer and I hope to get lucky rust is deadly hear in Canada I wish they would use sand but I guess it makes to much mess so merry Xmas friend we have snow for Xmas do you I would rather no snow and a little warmt so merry Xmas and a happy new year
Jeff Leblanc lol yeh good luck with that, I feel for you on the rust and snow I had to deal with it for many years, in the ten years I’ve been down south I think it has snowed maybe 4 years out of those 10 and don’t get me wrong when it does it’s fucking horrendous because they don’t salt obviously and the roads turn to absolute sheets of ice and no one knows how to drive and everything basically gets shut down for a day or two while it dries out lol
@@2491kridge its the salt that's the problem. can't stand working on cars in the midwest.
I learned a neat trick from an old mechanic and it works on retainer pins in rear ends too. Take a wrench apply a little bit of pressure and use an air hammer to vibrate the side of the caliper near the bleeder. I normally would use this just before I brought out the drill and torch. Great video and fix.
Dorman did a decent job so they must not be the ones that made them. That's great.
True right!?
Have you ever got a message from dorman before?!? Such a big burn that was :)
If the shoe fits...
+Raoul Thomas Dorman didn't make them
Who stocks them I asked o’Reillys and they said they didn’t stock the brake lines where do you get them Eric?
Put a drill bit (butt end) into the bleeder hole before clamping down on it with a vice. It'll keep it from being crushed.
Wish I had read this before twisting the top off mine and breaking off an hex plug in the bleeder valve bolt so I cant get it out on my front caliper. Although I see a good used caliper can be cheapest option or a good reconditioned one. To get the bleeder screws off the rear calipers I used a breaker bar they were in that tight. Although the back ones had a decent size bleeder bolt in the front ones were stupidly small. I found a freeze unlocking spray helped. I will use a torch but I would have thought the rubbers, hoses are at risk of heat damage from a torch ? What about the brake fuid is it flamable ?. To recap I changed all 3 calipers for used ones. All work fine now. Also I just changed the rear wheel bearing . Strange when I was trying to spin the rear wheels to find the faulty bearing I realised the calipers were sticking. Thanks faulty noisy wheel bearing you alerted me to the faulty brakes
@ valueless Dollar.. great idea.
I have a broken one that is always on my magnet tray just for this reason.
great idea!
I did that free I broke it lol brok the drill bit I was going to do that wen I first started but forgot till it was to late lol
Eric another very informative video. Love the fact you show methods that can be applied to most repair job. Keep them coming they are very helpful
I live near Buffalo aka the rust belt.. and I'm a junkyard mechanic so I'd like to say I'm pretty damn good getting rusted/broken things apart..today I was struggling with a broken bleeder as I have many hundreds of times in the past..my usual trick is to shock them with a hammer..spray them with penetrant and heat them right away before I even try to twist them out..that works bout 85% of the time.. occasionally they break off anyways like the one today on my own car.. so I use an ez out with heat..well if that doesn't work my last ditch effort is to weld a nut on to it, heat it up and twist it out..well that wasn't working today and I broke about 5 welded nuts off trying that today..so I walked away had some lunch and seen this video mentioning to heat and quench with water.. something I have heard about in the past but I had never really tried it before..I always figured since metal expanded when hot that keeping it hot was the best way and why on Earth would I want to cool it down? Well after seeing this video I gave it a shot..So I heated it up and with my soapy water spray bottle for finding tire leaks I quenched it..put a wrench on my welded nut and it was so loose I probably could have used my fingers to turn it out.. learn something new everyday.. definitely will be quenching more often in the future..
Glen's Channel k
I think the idea is that when your heating the area up with a torch you are grower the inner threads and the outer threads at a similar rate together but when you spray the part with water it cools the inner thread without cooling off the otter thread that much. This causes the inner thread to pull away from the outer thread as it shrinks much quicker having less thermal mass and breaks the bonds that holds them together.
so you bang on the top of the bleeder screw with a hammer I have a broken bleeder in my back caliper
Wish I had a welder even a torch got a little one and they are good to gets little warmth lol it’s pretty cold at least last night 4 days till Xmas and I’m out ther like a idiot trying to get this broken bleeder off the old dually I got another caliper I guess I could take the old one off and repair in the basement and yeh that’s what I’ll do I’m a littl pig headed but it’s so cold out ther it’s Eskimo weather here in Ontario Canada across lake ont from you folks hope you all have a merry Xmas and the best for 2020
Soon I’ll shock it alright with a goddam sledge hammer haven’t been to buffalo in years they banded me from the us for dumb charges here in Canada so they treat me like a terorist lol I guess you cant blame them all the nuts out ther
Someone may have already mentioned this: it is helpful to put the smooth side of a drill bit that fits snugly into the bleeder screw so that the hollow portion does not collapse. I keep broken drill bits around for this and other purposes. Just trim it to length so that it doesn't get in the way.
And I thought we had crusty undersides in SE Wisconsin due to the salt!!! It never ceases to amaze me how much corrosion we see on these videos. Thanks again for the awesome videos Eric. I look for them every day.
But we still do!
You really are a specialist when it comes to seized rusted shit. You make it look easy. Great stuff!
Thanks. It's always helpful to see someone do something tricky before you attempt it and break everything including the piece you are trying to fix.
It's always amazing how well the heat/quench method works. I've also used a lot of PB Blaster over the years, and although it stinks like hell and can be messy, it works well too. (and P. S., I'm a retired diesel mechanic, and I AM old!!! LOL )
my method involves a lot of swearing and throwing things usually ending with buying a new caliper. Thanks for the tip!
@@ClayCarlino the tried and true method. 🤣
The tried and true method 🤣
You post some great videos! I have seen many of my old tricks in your videos. I too live in the rust belt so I can appreciate the challenges corrosion can present yet still make book time for a repair. It’s easy working on rust free stuff.
"These are pretty good quality, which means they didn't make them..." classic humor and delivery. (For the most part I agree, but I too have been able to make Dorman products work without issues on occasion) Great channel. You are clear, concise, deliver with entertaining flare but not to excess, recent fav channel. Thank you for your expertise, insight and for making me chuckle.
Love your videos, you have tremendous knowledge and an abundance of common sense. I would suggest applying anti seize to the bleeders prior to instillation, keep up the great videos.
Dude you're the master of getting rusted nuts/bolts/studs out!
worked on cars for 40 years in nor cal and the rust you could wipe off with a rag could not imagine working on cars like you do, would be in a rubber room, good job as always.
Used this method today on some rusty old Volvo calipers. Worked great!
Nicely done Eric. One thing I will say is when you heat them, it is best to not have the easy out already set in place as the heat can take the temper out of the tool.
Yea, I know all about this stuff. After 15 years I decided to bleed the brakes on my Grand Prix so that I could exchange my old brake fluid using my Motive power brake bleeder that I had just bought. I took the tiniest 10mm double offset box wrench I had (TOPTUL of course) and after attaching the hose that goes to the bottle that collects the old fluid the bleeder backed right out. Gotta love living in Arizona.
The thing I love about your videos is just about every time I learn something new and useful, thanks man!
" If it's Dorman and good stuff, then someone else made it". Loved it LMFAO. Great video kid.
Same idea as Graham Reid's comment about having someone who knows what they are doing to deal with it.
Kid? Tf? That looks like a grown man to me
loving the more frequent vids, good videos man.
I put Teflon tape antiseize to make sure I get bleeder screws out the second time in the frozen waste land of canada
I just tried this on my broken bleed screw. I put a little walk on it before I quenched it. Worked like magic!!! Thank you!
Thanks for the demo! This has always been my biggest fear when it comes to bleeding brakes!
Any video with a torch is a good video!
Great video Eric.I watched your videos for years now and this is my first comment. I like using the brazing tip around the outside of the bleeder and then water if necessary. Your the best. I was wondering if you are going to add t- shirts to your amazon store.i would like to buy a bright blue and a bright orange. i can't understand why you only have 64000 subscriptions.People don't know what they are missing.Keep up the great work.
Wish you had this video out 2 month ago!
I ruined a caliper on dad's Benz trying to get the damn bleeder out. Luckily it was only $80 to replace and no labor.
Thx for posting best repair videos on RUclips!
Twisted off a bleeder and the heat and water method worked great. I used that method on the other three bleeders and got them loose without twisting them off. Great tip! Thank You
For small drill bits, set the drill to screw driving mode, that way if the drill bit snags the clutch on the drill prevents a broken drill bit.
yup just may save that drill bit
Darn fine tip there!
Yep, SLOW for steel. And cutting oil and dont get it too hot. If drilling by hand Two Hands, and you best be plumb. First I try a nail or tight fitting bit in the hole and needle file the 6 faces of the rusty bleeder nut, a good line wrench, but 1st. tons of PB and brass brushing for a few days before, if it's that rusty, and you got the time but not the dough.
The heating with a torch followed by quenching with water method works great for removing rusty drive belt pulleys from riding lawnmower engines. Without destroying the pulley.
Stanley Waggoner the technique works well for anything rusty, but you must be a fan of Taryl's.
Patience and good decisions help, so much,, with rusty parts. Thank you for another good video!
Sweet!!! I've had that job go not so well before because of someone else's handy work. Thanks Hunter O for doing what you do 🍩☕🍩🍩🍦cheers.
use a drill bit the size of the hole in the bleeder.... put in the solid end before applying vise grips... keeps it from crushing and distorting the bleeder.
Can't be stuck if it's liquid! Gotta love the oxy
Heat and water worked a treat on an 18 year old Toyota here in Ireland, thanks Eric.
This is the most valuable video yet! I avoid bleeding because one is broken on my great shape1995 E150 conversion van
Couldn't you also do the old weld a nut on trick? Shown in your exhaust manifold video (I think).
that only works if there's something left sticking up and it's strong enough to hold. If it's broken at the base, there's nothing to weld to. Also in some applications the bleeder valves aren't steel (they can sometimes be brass or aluminum). Those exceptions aside, yes.
Love your channel bud. I'm a heavy equipment mechanic in Nova Scotia. We have rust too. Love how you avoid cursing. Thats😖awsome
Aww yes the lovely rust plenty of that shit here in Ontario
Thanks for the tip Eric. I don't get the snow and salt on the roads here in Texas that you do in New York. I have had break bleeders break on me before. I will have to try this next time I have this problem. I hope everything is going well for you and your family. You put out great videos both here and your outdoor channel. Keep it up brother and stay safe.
Love your videos man, super helpful! Holy cow that's a rusty truck. I have to say I feel blessed living and wrenching here in Oregon, rust is all but a mystery SO FAR to us, however they are talking about salting roads starting this winter :/ the most I've had to do to free a stick bleeder was (thankfully) take a torch for a bout 10 minutes on a rear wheel cylinder of an early 2000's Ford Taurus. The water trick probably would have helped, but a bunch of heat, some persistence from a hammer and slow and steady pressure got the sucker lose!
Awesome special effects!
Sweet camera trick right!?
I was waiting for boiling brake fluid to come flying out when you took out the bleeder, lol.
Spray w/ Liquid Wrench the day before. Gently peck-peck-peck the top of the bleeder many times with a very small ball-peen hammer before trying to loosen it. And/or, (liquid wrench the day before) put your air impact on the lowest setting and turn it up only enough to make it hammer. Very slowly increase the air pressure. Not a sure thing but I've loosened many stubborn rusted nuts/bolts/etc with these methods since about '68.
I got my broken bleeder out by heating, turning the quarter inch remnant with a vise grip. I had done exactly what you did on the other side, with the same result too. There's negligible strength in that tubular stub, diminished by the clamping force and torque from the vise grip. I tapped a12d finish nail into the broken bleeder to reinforce against the deformation. I used an atomizing sprayer to quickly cool the bleeder after heating. Then I whacked the caliper hard a few times all around the caliper with a 5lb hammer and blunt chisel. After all that, the the reinforced bleeder tube came out with little resistance. I had an assistant keeping all the rags protecting the rubber parts wet during heating. Only removed the wheel.
Dale
Thanks for the front wheel bearing replacement guide for Toyota. Taught me a lot about that operation.
Really appreciate the wonderfull videos where you proudly display your 30k in tools but most folk trying to just do a brake job dont have a mortgage sized tool stash, but somewhat informative for those wanting to open up there own repair bitnez
that is never how that situation plays out for me. ever.
Just a little tip,use a left hand drill to drill it out. This is not a piss take,they do exist, it tends to try to loosen rather than tighten as you drill. If it snags then it acts like an easy out. Surely I don't have to say that you have to run the drill in the opposite direction to normal?
I'm pretty sure Eric has left hand bits, I've seen him use them in another video. But good tip none the less.
Andrew Wilson use them all the time on brake rotor hold down screws such as the ones on Honda's or VW,S etc.
bartz118 just some people think it a bit of a left handed hammer or left handed screwdriver piss take. I do use them on those rotor screws, they are usually well seized in and turn to shit when trying to undo!
It's a straight flute extractor so it doesn't matter LH or RH drill bit and when the bleeder snaps off with heat and vise grips it's not going to come out with a LH drill bit. LH drill bit works good with screws & spiral flute or multi spline adapters. I can guarantee Eric has boxes & indexes full of LH & RH drill bits especially dealing with NY rust.
Hayward's Automotive you ain't kidding..we're in NY. right outside NYC..the stuff we encounter in the rust belt is like no other! seized bolts, bolt heads that look like they were once rivets are a daily occurrence....from a simple air box cover removal to replace the filter to the wonderful jobs that require the "simple straight forward" removal of an exhaust component to access the PS pump.
After braking a number of easy-outs, and replacing wheel cylinders and calipers, I tried the trusty torch method. It surely saves time and money. Good to see your demonstration for the un-informed !
Good idea, good work for other people who frustrates to learn, thank you
Too bad you don't have a big job on that Audi! 🙁 I'd love to watch you work on Euro " trash " sometime!
Had no idea Dorman made those stainless kits (they're pretty cheap, too). I'm just a dude (if you can do it, I can do it - right?) with a desk job whose hobby is cars. I've done 3 sets of GMT800 brake lines for friends and family. Twice I used stainless, prebent kits (Inline Tube & Classic Tube) and the third I made a set from NiCopp. The only issue I had with the stainless kits is the rigidity of the line. If they don't line up exactly, it's a royal pain to try and finagle them into place - which is always the case around the ABS module. The stainless also sometimes takes a few re-seats to make a good seal.
I really like how the NiCopp lines turned out, but the price of those Dormans is pretty hard to beat. Six or one half dozen, I guess.
Great video, never had very good luck with bleeders. Im excited to try the rapid cooling method.
I tried your suggestion to heat up the bleeder and then pour water on it. Worked! Thanks for the suggestion.
Great video, i usually get some candle wax on it after the heat... before breaking the head off if possible, (shit luck with easy outs) may need a second application works great for any stuck threads. Will try the water trick next time : ]
TheCanadianBubba the water trick is the best.i used to work in Romania in a chemical factory where salt was used a lot the bolts where so rusted like you have never seen and heat and water always worked.this was in communist times we did not have parts to replace.here in America everything to replace easy for the mechanic hard for the owner that does not have money to throw at parts.i like this guy he is trying to save money for customer
TheCanadianBubba
I have used both the wax and water. Works great.
My dad was a machinist and taught me that water trick years ago......he would of been 89 in a few weeks if he was still alive.....goesto show you your never to old to learn.....every day is a school day
After approx. 40 years hobby work on cars, I tried LEFT HAND DRILL BITS and LED HEADLIGHT. Great tools!
I put antisize on bleeder screws, for the next guy.
Heat to almost red, hit with water then block of wood hit with hammer. Be gentle and repeat if necessary, tried the water thing from this video...it works great, i live in Michigan so just about every time you touch a bleeder its stuck. One of the reasons i like south main videos is because hes a normal guy thats a honest, honorable and hard working man that does a good job and its interesting to me to watch all his videos because he deals with all the corrosion i do when working on my own vehicles. The tricks and procedures he does has shown me ways that make my life easier by not always just beating stuff with a hammer for an hour. Thanks for the videos i really enjoy them...cheers
450 comments in one day?!? That is insanity, Eric! Like Scotty K. territory... But he would get two bleeders out in 3 minutes...9 minutes isn't a bad result tho xD
Scotty would've come up with the idea to just whack them several times with a hammer. This dude is too elaborate, next level stuff right here
Scotty wishes he was as good and Thorough as Eric. Eric is in a class all by himself! No comparison!
@@Quentyn73 Scotty would have taken a hammer and flattened the line to seal it. " Ya got 3 more good ones anyway..."
Same, but I use wax. It cools it quick and lubricates the threads at the same time.
Damn Eric, it's been a SMA week, keep them coming!
Thanks for the classes it really helps simple and clear
Hi Eric O. What was your pressure settings on tanks? I seem to use to much oxygen psi. THANKS FRIEND
8 on gas and 18 on O2
THANKS
South Main Auto Repair ....Will that method work on exhaust manifolds on a 1973 Ford 390 FE? I want to put headers on.
I use O2 and propane, #1 tip calls for 30 and 8psi
Yes, you use a ton of oxygen but its cheap.
Me thinks you most likely have a leak...
Hey - how about some copper grease on the threads of the new bleeders? The next man (which might be you) will thank you!
Guinea Fowl I've been doing that for years. I'm usually the next mechanic and I always say thank you.
Anti seize & a rubber cap on the bleeder, never another problem with stuck bleeders.
Most of your imports come with caps on the bleeder screws.
Was gonna say “what about some anti seize” myself. I do my own work and side work for people and I anti seize the shit out of everything I can, especially up here around Pittsburgh. Rust sucks.
It’s amazing how few pro mechanics don’t use it. I Copperslip the shit out of everything.
Frazer Guest I usually wrap the threads with Teflon tape to aid in vacuum bleeding, and I find it also seems to prevent the threads from seizing.
I live in western New York and I feel u on the rust. If u listen on a quiet night u can here the rust forming
Great tutorial. Thank you for your time and effort.
just watched a Chris fix video... he held up a bottle of (the good stuff) brake parts cleaner and the was no dramatic sound... just diddnt seem right lol
Chris fix is an idiot.
I usually drill, heat, then use my easy out. Works for me majority of the time. Living in the UK, i'm also used to dealing with stupid amounts of rust. Haha
Fit brass bleed nipples.
I can usually get them out by putting a socket on it (If there is anything left of it) and hitting right next to it with an air hammer.
You make drilling those out look easy, good job.
Damn it!! I didnt know dormin made pre bent stainless lines. I had a lot of time pissing around with brake lines on my tahoe a few weeks ago!
Thanks Eric I learnt something new
Thanks for the tip eric!! Son of a hoo ha!
Rated G for Son of a B
South Main Auto Repair
Yeah, I was going to ask if you knew "Hoo Haa" That was funny
My method: live in Tucson x3
My notifications are still not working but I searched you out and we meet again. Great visual on the bleeder smoke. That was cool. I don't have any additional tricks, the EZ out have always worked for me.
Great tip on getting these out with heat and then water...thanks
I'm getting a little disappointed in the lack of brake clean in these recent brake repair videos sir.
yeah like he's getting cheap on us. And that loud music would wake me up too.
First! Need more brake cleaner. I would have replaced the caliper w/ bracket considering all the rust...considering the new brake lines the calipers probably wouldn't have been that much more...otherwise it was a quick and painless procedure with the hotwrench...thanks!
When you start replacing rusty parts on these vehicles here it would be an endless task. Where do you stop?
South Main Auto Repair very true. It reminds me when I used to wrench in Maryland...I would have to sweep the floor anytime I worked on anything...we would replace everything for warranty purposes mainly...
New calipers are almost $200 for a pair. Not worth it unless needed
Another great video. You really do have the answers for everything. Thanks for being awesome!
Appreciate what do everyday for all of us
i've gotten a bleeder screw out once by heating it up and then cooling it really fast with a upside down can of caned air.
R134a is my choice of quench sauce.
Eric, do you think heating the easy-out in the bleeder possibly weakened it? I would guess those hardened tools are heat treated.
Also, I would cover the new bleeders in the stickiest, heaviest grease I could find.
Also, can you link the extractor you used? I didn't see it in your store.
they are not in the store because they are snap on and that is the beauty of it. I use it and turn it in for a new one incase the heating ruined the temper on it
haha, nice:) i pretty much stopped using easy-outs b/c they break off. the snapon's look like they don't snapoff
Hey Eric can you see if you can give me the part# on that tools.
halleffect1
Eric, All
Agree on the red heat likely annealing the hardness from the heat treated easy out. Should still be strong enough to repurpose to hang a picture frame on drywall. From another poster, agree on applying a dab of Coppercoat anti-sieze grease. BTW, don't put coppercoat on the easy out if you use it as a picture hanger. That will restore it's function as an 'easy out' and you picture might fall. ; ) Was not impressed that the mechanic didn't put sheet metal or something to shield the nearby brakeline from turning incandescent in the hot flame and carbonizing the brake fluid inside. The inside of the system is now contaminated and the bleeding to follow will eventually push this abrasive carbon into the caliper piston. My new acqaintances might advise that you don't want sharp shards of carbon particles in your brake pistons when decelerating out of warp, or even if you are just trying to come to a quick stop on a water planet!
once I remove the bleeder I put never seize copper base sealant on the threads and cap the bleeder hole with a rubber plug to keep the hole clean and dry. No problems after that ever!! Nice idea about the heat and cold water shock spray - I will try this if there comes a time when rust resists.. Thanks for the video.
Its amazing the other day i heard it explained
And now you have a perfect video demonstration...
Some anti-seize on the new bleeders would be nice.
Anti seize? Not such a good idea.The oil in the compound will get into the brake fluid and that is bad.
ddd228 put it on the threads. Not the needle. It won't migrate. If when you loosen the bleeder there is going to be any migration past the threads, it's going to be outwards during bleeding. Works great if you're not hamfisted with the antiseize brush. If you have so much environmental moisture and salt to risk frozen bleeders you should be flushing your fluid more often regardless. Good idea.
(Note, some new bleeders do some with an lock tite/antiseize type coating on them already. )
Agreed on the anti-seize.
Great idea. I do it all the time. Nobody has died as a result of contaminated brake fluid.
@@larryfine4498 I died in a fiery ball from contaminated brake fluid
"I love the smell of burnt brake fluid in the morning. It smells like . . . . .victory!"
More like cancer.
Nice job, good to see someone who has a clue for a change. I may suggest not heating with your easy out in place as you may be taking the temper out of the tool.
A true pro - been searching for a vid like this for a long time.....and that heat & water trick just awsome, knew that from my old man...respect !
Anyone else notice that he had gloves on drivers side but lost them on the passenger side. lol
Trickery!
I buy new calipers that's how I deal with it lol
If the calipers are old is the best way to get new ones!
I guess when your a shop owner and its not your money, you gotta try before you spend the customers money.
Agree what I'd charge to remove the bleeder it would be cheaper that way lmao
@@danbierschbach7743 No you just don't recommend dumb shit like this to the customer. I'll charge you to try and get the bleeder out then charge you to change the caliper means more money for me. Brakes are something you don't fuck with, buy a cheap air filter that's fine don't cheap out on brakes.
@@pudermcgavin4462 how'd that work out for you?
I did same as you on my 2004 dakota heated them up and use easy outs. but will try the cold water next time . thanks for all your videos they're all awesome.
Great video. I have to do this this weekend on my 2000 Yukon.
Friends don’t let friends use tapered “easy” outs. Straight flute is the only way to go. As for heat and quench... I recently started using R134a to cool bolts. It’s a lot more precise (you don’t end up cooling the wrong parts) and cools much faster. My method is not EPA-approved and Al Gore won’t accept my Facebook friend request.
Now a days nothing is epa approved nor osha's, but that doesn't stop my acetylene glove bombs. LMFAO
A shot of brake cleaner cools quik too.when heating.i suck never seize into the threads w the penetrant
My best method?
I take it to a mechanic. HA!
As with heating a brake part/bleeder. You noticed your special affects. I was always told not to over heat them. It could cause it to explode and or start a fire. But that would be with fluid still in calipers/lines. I do enjoy your videos. Very informative.
Nice job! Never did I have that kind of luck. Thanks for the video.
My method is easy..... Leave it to someone that knows what they are doing lol.
Lol that works too
I try praying. If that doesn’t work, I just cry.
Love watching your videos. This is the real world 😀
When I install new bleeders I put a wrap of thread tape on. It was recommended with my mityvac brake bleeder to help keep them air tight when using the vacuum bleeder. When I go back to bleed brakes again they come out fairly easy.
with that rust I rather buy a new caliper and throw that in the scrap bin..but that's just me lol...