Automatic Ford Ranger with a shifter really hard to pull into gear / no reverse
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- shows possible reason for automatic ford ranger being hard to pull into gear with no reverse
** Codemansauto DIY Tools **
1. 4r44e neutral safety switch amzn.to/3FZqmgn
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Thank you sir!! you have helped me with this video in leaps and bounds!!
Thanks again for taking the time to help DYI people like myself.
Solid information, I appreciate your time and effort. Who would of thought that that could destroy a transmission. Im changing mine for peace of mind,lol.👈💯
Outstanding!
Great video
Thank you! Very helpful.
Excellent!
Take pictures for re assembly 😊
Thanks
Thank you very much.
The transmission on my Ford Ranger 1993 V6 4x4 XTL got repaired, changed seals and solenoids. But now, when I test drive, it can't find 2nd gear, I have to move the the shift myself to 2nd and then back to drive in order to get to 3rd gear. The mechanic said is an electrical problem, is this true, can an electrical issue cause the tranmission not to shift properly? The mechanic put a scanner and got code 15 C (Power Interruption to computer memory or EEC (PCM) Keep Alive Memory (KAM) test failed. I'm not sure if this can cause issue with the transmission. I would like someone with experiece to shed some light into this. Thank you so much in advance.
I have a question about my 2WD 2011 Ford Ranger Automatic Transmission. It was supposed have been replaced about 2 1/2 years ago and was working fine until last year when a problem started occurring. when leaving to go somewhere the transmission would go into drive fine, however after going a short distance of a few blocks and usually when coming to a stoplight, when I go to accelerate from the stop the transmission lose drive gear, after stopping and shifting into park, or reverse it eventually will engage again and go on shifting normally. A couple times it did continue to slip. However it typically would return to normal operation without further problems. I found the problem seemed to be less frequent during the hot Phoenix summer. I checked the fluid level and it was ok. I found more increasingly lately I would lose drive when entering the freeway during acceleration and have avoided driving on the freeway completely. The problem has became very frequent when leaving for the past few months but typically goes away after the initial loss of drive which will "Engage' after a few seconds or longer and no longer slip or act up and operate normally.
Today while driving close by after and during rain and cooler temps that Drive completely failed after stopping a couple places a block away and then refueling. Reverse also would not engage completely and slipped, but D1 and D2 worked ok and I did make it home. I tried several time to go and try it in Drive and Reverse, and drove around the mobile home park to see if things would return to normal, but it continues to slip badly. It did flash the O/D light during these tests which from my research indicated slippage after 3 attempts.
I tried adding additional fluid but the problem continued. Tonight I let it run idling in park for about 20 minutes. When I tried it again it seemed to work as normal without slippage, however I did not take it out on the street, only at slower speed around the park where it did shift from 1st to 2nd fine and had no apparent slippage. Last year I did remove the equivalent of a bottle of Lucus Transmission Treatment worth of transmission fluid drawn from the Dipstick Tube, and added the Lucus treatment hoping to resolve the issues, which did seem to help, but may have been due to operating at hotter temps during the summer.
Do you have any suggestions? Would a fluid & filter change be advised? I would guess I have about 30K miles on the "Replaced Transmission" and everything operated normal for over a year until the problems stated occurring. The fluid I removed looked good, not dark or contaminated. Do these symptoms indicate a problem with transmission electronic controls/computer module or shift solenoids? Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated. I have tried finding videos on this ford automatic transmission with similar issues with no luck. It's odd that the transmission fails like this after just driving less than a block or a few blocks and stopping, not able to engage in drive when starting forward acceleration again, then within a few seconds or sometime after rolling to place to pull over then stopping, trying shifting to park, reverse etc.. then it will engage and operate normally with no slippage.
I just found today that D1& D2 worked when Drive and Reverse would slip badly with almost no engagement, just slight forward and backward movement respectively. I did not rev the motor excessively as to not do damage, or have a "Hard Engagement" and break something.
I have a question about my 2011 Ford Ranger Transmission. It was supposed have been replaced about 2 1/2 years ago and was working fine until last year when a problem started occurring. when leaving to go somewhere the transmission would go into drive fine, however after going a short distance of a few blocks and usually when coming to a stoplight, when I go to accelerate from the stop the transmission lose drive gear, after stopping and shifting into park, or reverse it eventually will engage again and go on shifting normally. A couple times it did continue to slip. However it typically would return to normal operation without further problems. I found the problem seemed to be less frequent during the hot Phoenix summer. I checked the fluid level and it was ok. I found more increasingly lately I would lose drive when entering the freeway during acceleration and have avoided driving on the freeway completely. The problem has became very frequent when leaving for the past few months but typically goes away after the initial loss of drive which will "Engage' after a few seconds or longer and no longer slip or act up and operate normally.
Today while driving close by after and during rain and cooler temps that Drive completely failed after stopping a couple places a block away and then refueling. Reverse also would not engage completely and slipped, but D1 and D2 worked ok and I did make it home. I tried several time to go and try it in Drive and Reverse, and drove around the mobile home park to see if things would return to normal, but it continues to slip badly. It did flash the O/D light during these tests which from my research indicated slippage after 3 attempts.
I tried adding additional fluid but the problem continued. Tonight I let it run idling in park for about 20 minutes. When I tried it again it seemed to work as normal without slippage, however I did not take it out on the street, only at slower speed around the park where it did shift from 1st to 2nd fine and had no apparent slippage. Last year I did remove the equivalent of a bottle of Lucus Transmission Treatment worth of transmission fluid drawn from the Dipstick Tube, and added the Lucus treatment hoping to resolve the issues, which did seem to help, but may have been due to operating at hotter temps during the summer.
Do you have any suggestions? Would a fluid & filter change be advised? I would guess I have about 30K miles on the "Replaced Transmission" and everything operated normal for over a year until the problems stated occurring. The fluid I removed looked good, not dark or contaminated. Do these symptoms indicate a problem with transmission electronic controls/computer module or shift solenoids? Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated. I have tried finding videos on this ford automatic transmission with similar issues with no luck. It's odd that the transmission fails like this after just driving less than a block or a few blocks and stopping, not able to engage in drive when starting forward acceleration again, then within a few seconds or sometime after rolling to place to pull over then stopping, trying shifting to park, reverse etc.. then it will engage and operate normally with no slippage.
I just found today that D1& D2 worked when Drive and Reverse would slip badly with almost no engagement, just slight forward and backward movement respectively. I did not rev the motor excessively as to not do damage, or have a "Hard Engagement" and break something.
Can it be replaced without removing the transmission from the truck ? It looks like it can but thought maybe I’m over looking something.
Dose the transmission have to be removed for this replacement? If so could I possibly clean and lube the old one while on the truck still?
the transmission does not have to be taken out
I have never been successful at just cleaning and lubing the old one
My 1994 Ford Explorer has all gears forward and all 4 forward gears works normal exept it will not automatically shift up by itself and has to be done manually until the transmission is warmed up after about 5 miles of driving and then after about 5 miles it will automatically upshift in all 4 forward gears until you shut it down overnight.
But also quite often if you put it into revese, you will hear sound of gears grinding. It will do this each time it is put into reverse. But once in awhile if you put it into reverse it will go into reverse and work properly with no sound of grinding gears. But then start grinding gears the next time you put it into reverse. Do you have any idea what is causing it to not shift upwards automatically until it is warmed up and also grind gears when put into reverse. Is it something that I can repair, or is it something that will have to be done with a $3,000.00 transmission rebuild by a qualified transmission repair technition at a transmission repair shop?
P.S. I got that transmission out of a salvage yard and they said I had a 30 day warranty and guess what? - it worked fine for the first 45 days before it started acting up. By then the warranty had run out. But that's typical, always works until the warranty runs out.
Also typical - Neither the Ford dealers or any of the transmission repair shops in my area will tell me or give me an idea of what might be wrong unless I turn it in and let them rebuild the transmission, and they all want $3000.00 to rebuild the transmision.
this year explorer had an issue with the transfer case slipping out of two wheel drive and would go to neutral only in reverse, I use to check these by going down a steep grade about 40 mph and let off of the pedal and let it coast and if I got a loud noise that would go away with acceleration then I knew it was the transfer case
I have a similar issue now, but it won’t go into any gear with the shifter after replacing the steering column. But will Manually any ideas?
yes, there is possibility that you have a shift tube broke in the steering column that you put on
you might look up videos on ford shift tube problems ?
I hope this helps you
Great video! Any tips on removing the shaft seal? Does the pan have to be dropped? Thanks
no the pan does not have to be dropped
just be careful with the big nut on the end because to much pressure can snap the rooster comb inside
also the seal is tough to get out with out without dropping the pan and pulling the shaft out of the case but it is possible
I have a 2011 Ford Ranger 4.0 6L and I just lost reverse and it seems like every gear is drive and park is the only other working position. What is wrong please give me an idea
sounds like an internal clutch failure because when clutches get to hot they weld together and can cause every gear even neutral to want to pull in drive
@codemansauto208 it's an automatic, does that make a difference. Thanks
Hi I was wondering if you could point out where the turbine input speed sensor is I know where the outer shaft speed sensor is that or you can make a video Point both of those out and what all the sensors do on a Ford Ranger automatic transmission 2011 4.0 V6
There's a video by "Automatic Transmission" by Harim. It' called "4R44E Transmission Teardown Inspection - Transmission Repair". He does a complete teardown of the 4R44E. He shows where the turbine input speed sensor is.
Hey, quick question I've been having some issues with my grandpa's 03 ranger.
Was idling rough and surging. Found a vacuum leak and now that's fixed. But. When I put it in reverse it kind of shutters and dies. Could this safety switch go bad and cause that to happen?
Not likely and it truthfully doesn't sound like a transmission issue, I have seen crank sensors cause this only in reverse but never on a ford, a bad torque converter solenoid is what most mechanics will probably tell you is wrong with it but if that was the case it should want to die in forward also
@codemansauto208 exactly. My senses tells me it's a sensor. It shifts hard onto reverse and when I hold the break the idle fluctuates up and down per second. When it drops low for a second it seems the dash lights are dimming as well. Transmission wouldn't cause that it seems.
Will that do the same with putting it in drive
yes it can have the same effect
So, if you DO break the rooster comb, then what? (Asking for a friend.)
you will have to pull the pan and then it gets tricky because if the pin that holds the manual shaft has been driven to far up in the housing you cant drill it out because it is steel and the case is aluminum almost impossible without destroying the case but if the pin comes out ok then you can replace the rooster comb fairly easy
@@codemansauto208 i think that happen to me i replace to switch now i only get drive no reverse or neutral what should i do
hello , im not sure if you are still available or accepting any questions regarding the 5r44e , j have 03 ranger xlt 2wd , i lost reverse and drive on my way to work as if it was in neutral , only 1st n 2nd , OD doesnt work either do you think this could be the OD sprag ?
Same problem here on my 99 ranger 4x4
Any update on your situation?
Any update?