This very video was exactly right! It took me less than 10 minutes to look under, see that the mounting screws were loose, get the tools, tighten the 2 screws up, and drive the truck. Shifter problem completely solved! Thank you so much! I’m a new subscriber for sure!
2003 F150 XLT 5.4 here. I have been dealing with the shifter getting progressively looser the last few years, and it finally got so bad that the truck stopped starting in Park, and I would have to put it in Neutral and then it would start. The linkage was so sloppy it didn’t hold in Park enough for it to engage the ignition. Then it got worse, after driving the truck when I would go to put it in park, after a few seconds it would slip into reverse. Very dangerous. Watched this video at work, got home, grabbed my torx screwdriver set, and searched for those two screws. Sure enough they were both super loose. Tightened them up really good, and wow brand new truck. Shifts into each gear super tight, and everything works perfect again. Thank you so much! Best video out here on this issue. Probably a ton of people that can benefit from this. Greatly appreciated.
Part numbers: Gear Shifter Assembly: 5C3Z-7210-AAA Shift Tube: F57Z-7212-A Shift tube bushing: F3TZ-7L278-A Shifter lever pin: F0DZ-7G357-A The pin in the video looks like the Doorman one (924-440) Bolts for the clamps: N806584-S437
Thanks for posting this info. I found a pin on the floorboard and didn’t know where it came from. I identified it as the shifter lever pin with your info.
Great video, explaining this problem. This is a massive issue on these many older Ford’s that use this shifter system. Ford used this system was used for years in anything from the Taurus to the Crown Victoria, Windstar & Ranger. I honestly almost think it should’ve been a possible recall, same with the shift indicator issue too.
A+, thank-you for posting. You covered all the issues for slop in the shifter on these vehicles. If you want to pick these up at your local auto parts store the info is: Dorman Transmission Shift Rod Bushing 905-107. Price is around $6.99 for the pair. These bushings made a huge difference for my Ranger. I would suggest using some sort of plastic compatible grease on the inside of the bushing.
This is the most in depth analysis I've seen on the floppy shifter problem. The old F250 7.3 I just bought has the flop but the torx bolts are tight, after seeing this I suspect it's worn bushings on the tube causing it.
Thank you so much for sharing your wisdom. This is exactly what was wrong with my husband's truck. Tightened those 2 screws and it shifted properly. God bless you. 🙌🏽🙏🏽🙋🏽♀️🙋♂️
A couple weeks ago this got the neighbor beside the shop, thought the truck was in park but was in reverse…I heard him yelling for help and found the truck on top of his legs.
@@koolkat8639 he’s not ok, alive but not ok. I haven’t heard anything back yet but it had to have broken his right leg, possibly his left, I don’t know what would be left of his right knee because the tire went over it and bent it backwards.
Thanks, Bulldog! My shifter was sloppy and then eventually broke, no shifting! A little research made me think it MAY be the cable. But, hands-on research showed me the cable is fine! The issue on my 98' Ford E-350 is where the end of the shift rod transitions to a plate. There is a very specialized piece that fits in there. Initially, a friend was helping, and he bent a 1/4x20 bolt and stuck it in there, DEFINITELY TEMPORARY, as after a couple of weeks the bolt was laying on the floor Fortunately, I was able to get under the van, shift the van and get back home. So now... I am going to make the permanent repair. Or... as permanent as possible with what is obviously a design flaw. I have an awful lot of brackets underneath my column. I find it hard to believe all of those brackets are stock. When my catalytic converter was stolen, I was then told that my van was a special make and the cat was not available. Anyway, I have got to drop my entire column to get in there. AND... I have already removed quite a few brackets to get to the point where I can kinda see the transition plate. Well, I gotta get in there, so I am gonna find another video that shows how to drop that column. I HIGHLY DOUBT, any video will show all of the steel brackets that I am seeing. Oh, if you're not too busy, can you make the repairs to my shift rod and transition plate? We can make another video, and I will handle the camera! Thanks again, brother! Best to you!
Check to see if one of the bolts doesn’t have anything to bolt into. Mine broke 2yrs ago almost to the date, the part where the torx screws into the column broke. Had nothing to screw into. I now have the same exact problem again. No R or Park. Everything else is fine, bushings etc.
I just had one of those bolts on the back of the shifter tube shear completely off. 2000 F350 with the 5.4L engine. Those bolts are really hard to find!
@@ronlarsen4369 I’m currently doing another video on this where the shifter tube broke and snapped one of the loops off, ford still has those parts available
Then I'll just loosen those 2 bolts and put some lock glue or something on the threads then tighten them on so they'll stay tight longer I dont really see a good point in replacing those plastic bushings when new ones will break because its plastic I'd use or make a metal sleeves for it instead of plastic bushings
@@gosselinsergegs The newest video on my channel is a start to finish on this design, I assume if it’s a problem in the column it’ll have to do with the lower part of the shift tube, if not the casing of the cable might be broken… you’ll have to do some investigating to find it.
Hello, my friend in the table not look the P(parking) , I change the module tcm solenoide valve and same problrm , no look in the table "P" , other gears is ok.....help me ....
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 @bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 yes , digital readout, is the 5.0 cc xlt year 2012,,,,.... maybe the cable that comunicator the lever with selector automatic box?? ..... thank for response
@@franknieto6064 The application depicted in the video is a mechanical indicator, yours is digital. It could be a cable adjustment problem but if that was the case the engine probably wouldn’t start. If the “P” never shows up then it could be a problem with the readout itself, or with the wiring at the transmission. You stated you changed a solenoid? If the problem occurred after that then I would assume it’s not plugged in correctly, the larger round plug on your application can be a bit tricky
But then if its just loose I'll only use the glue and do it that way But im set on to do the leaking gas line its got a leak from the gas line end to were it connects to the gas filter Its got a bad gas line end connector from the engine to the gas filter under the driver side door so that shouldn't be to hard to fix its not a screw on type of gas line like how on Chevy it is im not much use to working on fords but i have to
The handle is available and often is replaced due to a bad overdrive switch, the receiver tube is available as it often breaks when the shifter gets sloppy enough that the interlock won’t disengage and people yank on the handle, the pin is fairly cheap and available as well so might as well replace it too.
When I dropped the column to repair my shifter tube, when I re-raised the column back in place and tightened it the steering wheel sticks. What did I do wrong?
Scroll down, someone in the comments listed all the part numbers, I don’t normally deal with ordering or billing at the shop and as far as the bolts we’ve always found them in the hush panel or floorboard.
My torx screws were loose and the upper one doesn’t thread into anything. Is it possible I broke the part that the screws thread into? If so what’s that plate called?
I changed my shift tube it’s my first time doing it to and I’m a bigger guy so getting them two bolts were a hassle cuz I couldn’t fit up under , but I replaced it and somehow I can only get netrual and. Drive it’s like somthing it else is bro or I missed or done somthing wrong
I just tightened these two screws as they were very loose. Now after tightening them i cant shift anymore and the transmission would not move out of P? what did i do wrong 😂
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 my 98 F-150 did not have a clip. The pin was knerled on one end. After checking the pin for wear, which it had a lot, I decided to order a new pin. I'm assuming that the pin will wear more than the shifter.
Can you help? When i park, i have to leave it in Neutral and E-break. Because i can't get it out of Park. Did the dial adjustment, that just moves the needle. Had to drop the dashboard to get to the heater core a month ago. Did something get bent i can't see?
Anyone know what the thread size is on the bolts. Found the head of one laying in the floor board tonight after seeing this video after an 20 mins of messing with it why I could barely get it to shift between R N D
Ohhhhooohhhooo is because its made in Mexico???????? No my frien is because is designed by usa igeniers .what is made in mx is made right dont make foolish others of your people's fault
Factory parts do not have a tag on them like that, if they do then you know they’ve been replaced at some point and even dealer parts will sometimes have a country of origin tag.
![[Limbus Company - PV] Chapter.7 - Oblivion](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VUpkXPkvoxU/mqdefault.jpg)
This very video was exactly right! It took me less than 10 minutes to look under, see that the mounting screws were loose, get the tools, tighten the 2 screws up, and drive the truck. Shifter problem completely solved! Thank you so much! I’m a new subscriber for sure!
Thanks!
2003 F150 XLT 5.4 here. I have been dealing with the shifter getting progressively looser the last few years, and it finally got so bad that the truck stopped starting in Park, and I would have to put it in Neutral and then it would start. The linkage was so sloppy it didn’t hold in Park enough for it to engage the ignition. Then it got worse, after driving the truck when I would go to put it in park, after a few seconds it would slip into reverse. Very dangerous. Watched this video at work, got home, grabbed my torx screwdriver set, and searched for those two screws. Sure enough they were both super loose. Tightened them up really good, and wow brand new truck. Shifts into each gear super tight, and everything works perfect again. Thank you so much! Best video out here on this issue. Probably a ton of people that can benefit from this. Greatly appreciated.
Part numbers:
Gear Shifter Assembly: 5C3Z-7210-AAA
Shift Tube: F57Z-7212-A
Shift tube bushing: F3TZ-7L278-A
Shifter lever pin: F0DZ-7G357-A
The pin in the video looks like the Doorman one (924-440)
Bolts for the clamps: N806584-S437
what about the torx screws? what’s the specs ?
@@l3thalempire400 found the Ford part number: N806584-S437
Thanks for posting this info. I found a pin on the floorboard and didn’t know where it came from. I identified it as the shifter lever pin with your info.
found this after talking about my loose shifter... theyre watching
I hope they find why my truck doesn't start and suggest me a video
Great video, explaining this problem. This is a massive issue on these many older Ford’s that use this shifter system. Ford used this system was used for years in anything from the Taurus to the Crown Victoria, Windstar & Ranger. I honestly almost think it should’ve been a possible recall, same with the shift indicator issue too.
It won't shift properly. Do I need to change the whole shifting mechanism?
@MatthewAnderson-it8nq what do you mean by “won’t shift properly “?
Bro, you just saved me a fortune on that shifter bolts trick. Ty very much
A+, thank-you for posting. You covered all the issues for slop in the shifter on these vehicles. If you want to pick these up at your local auto parts store the info is: Dorman Transmission Shift Rod Bushing 905-107. Price is around $6.99 for the pair. These bushings made a huge difference for my Ranger. I would suggest using some sort of plastic compatible grease on the inside of the bushing.
Just tightened the bolts up on one today, been giving trouble starting for months he said, turns out it wasn’t getting all the way in park sometimes.
This is the most in depth analysis I've seen on the floppy shifter problem. The old F250 7.3 I just bought has the flop but the torx bolts are tight, after seeing this I suspect it's worn bushings on the tube causing it.
Thank you so much for sharing your wisdom. This is exactly what was wrong with my husband's truck. Tightened those 2 screws and it shifted properly. God bless you. 🙌🏽🙏🏽🙋🏽♀️🙋♂️
A couple weeks ago this got the neighbor beside the shop, thought the truck was in park but was in reverse…I heard him yelling for help and found the truck on top of his legs.
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387whoa! Is he okay??
@@koolkat8639 he’s not ok, alive but not ok. I haven’t heard anything back yet but it had to have broken his right leg, possibly his left, I don’t know what would be left of his right knee because the tire went over it and bent it backwards.
Thanks, Bulldog! My shifter was sloppy and then eventually broke, no shifting! A little research made me think it MAY be the cable. But, hands-on research showed me the cable is fine!
The issue on my 98' Ford E-350 is where the end of the shift rod transitions to a plate. There is a very specialized piece that fits in there.
Initially, a friend was helping, and he bent a 1/4x20 bolt and stuck it in there, DEFINITELY TEMPORARY, as after a couple of weeks the bolt was laying on the floor Fortunately, I was able to get under the van, shift the van and get back home.
So now... I am going to make the permanent repair. Or... as permanent as possible with what is obviously a design flaw.
I have an awful lot of brackets underneath my column. I find it hard to believe all of those brackets are stock. When my catalytic converter was stolen, I was then told that my van was a special make and the cat was not available.
Anyway, I have got to drop my entire column to get in there. AND... I have already removed quite a few brackets to get to the point where I can kinda see the transition plate. Well, I gotta get in there, so I am gonna find another video that shows how to drop that column. I HIGHLY DOUBT, any video will show all of the steel brackets that I am seeing.
Oh, if you're not too busy, can you make the repairs to my shift rod and transition plate? We can make another video, and I will handle the camera!
Thanks again, brother! Best to you!
If you have several extra brackets then it was probably a build with hand controls, I’m in northeast Missouri.
Thanks for the help ,got my shifter bolts tightened up and fixed my problem I had been putting up with for 2 years
For people who are wondering, the bolts for the shift tube clamps are the same bolts that go into the back of the shift tube and connects the linkage
Good looks👍🏼
Thanks for the thorough and detailed explanation. I replaced my bushings but there was still some slop, I'll check the other place you mentioned.
Check to see if one of the bolts doesn’t have anything to bolt into. Mine broke 2yrs ago almost to the date, the part where the torx screws into the column broke. Had nothing to screw into. I now have the same exact problem again. No R or Park. Everything else is fine, bushings etc.
Best video on this topic so far. A+ Covers all possibilities.
Thank you so much for this amazing video explanation
Now this is the best video on this topic!! Thank you sir
I just had one of those bolts on the back of the shifter tube shear completely off. 2000 F350 with the 5.4L engine. Those bolts are really hard to find!
@@ronlarsen4369 I’m currently doing another video on this where the shifter tube broke and snapped one of the loops off, ford still has those parts available
I didn't realize my shifter was so sloppy until I tightened this bracket up. I feel like I'm driving a brand new 2001 f250 😊
Awesome video. You saved me time and money. Thank you
Thanks brother. This solved my shifter issue. Great video.
Very nice explanation of the working parts... tkss
Excellent informational video.
Dang that's alot of info..I'd be terrified to take all that out
I was wondering I tried this it helped on one of the screws but the other would go In but come right loose
Then I'll just loosen those 2 bolts and put some lock glue or something on the threads then tighten them on so they'll stay tight longer
I dont really see a good point in replacing those plastic bushings when new ones will break because its plastic I'd use or make a metal sleeves for it instead of plastic bushings
Hi thanks for the best videos on shifter ,my problem is it goes to drive but won't go back to park what do you think ford 250 1997
@@gosselinsergegs The newest video on my channel is a start to finish on this design, I assume if it’s a problem in the column it’ll have to do with the lower part of the shift tube, if not the casing of the cable might be broken… you’ll have to do some investigating to find it.
Thank you that was awesome 👌
Thanks. This helps a lot. I just fixed.
Wow, you would think the factory would have used lock tight
Hello, my friend in the table not look the P(parking) , I change the module tcm solenoide valve and same problrm , no look in the table "P" , other gears is ok.....help me ....
I’m assuming you have a digital readout for your shift indicator and it won’t show that it’s in park and the rest of the gears do?
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387
@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 yes , digital readout, is the 5.0 cc xlt year 2012,,,,.... maybe the cable that comunicator the lever with selector automatic box?? ..... thank for response
@@franknieto6064 The application depicted in the video is a mechanical indicator, yours is digital. It could be a cable adjustment problem but if that was the case the engine probably wouldn’t start. If the “P” never shows up then it could be a problem with the readout itself, or with the wiring at the transmission. You stated you changed a solenoid? If the problem occurred after that then I would assume it’s not plugged in correctly, the larger round plug on your application can be a bit tricky
I'm having same issue
Thankyou for the explanation Thankyou
My shifter only seems lose in park!
Great info! Thanks.
But then if its just loose I'll only use the glue and do it that way
But im set on to do the leaking gas line its got a leak from the gas line end to were it connects to the gas filter
Its got a bad gas line end connector from the engine to the gas filter under the driver side door so that shouldn't be to hard to fix its not a screw on type of gas line like how on Chevy it is im not much use to working on fords but i have to
What about repairing the actual shift lever. Both of mine have play in the handle where the pink locks it into the tuve
The handle is available and often is replaced due to a bad overdrive switch, the receiver tube is available as it often breaks when the shifter gets sloppy enough that the interlock won’t disengage and people yank on the handle, the pin is fairly cheap and available as well so might as well replace it too.
What if it’s not that? Is it likely the bushings that sit on top of the receiver tube? Mine will not go into park and my bolts are not loose
@@SouthernBelleBroker check the cable, if the casing is broken it will cause this , as well as wear in the bushings and pins
When I dropped the column to repair my shifter tube, when I re-raised the column back in place and tightened it the steering wheel sticks. What did I do wrong?
Check your column covers
1:34 what are the part number for those 2 bolts right their
Scroll down, someone in the comments listed all the part numbers, I don’t normally deal with ordering or billing at the shop and as far as the bolts we’ve always found them in the hush panel or floorboard.
How do you change the adjustment wire in the shifting assembly?
My torx screws were loose and the upper one doesn’t thread into anything. Is it possible I broke the part that the screws thread into? If so what’s that plate called?
@@bryangarber7580 make sure it’s lined up with the hole, if you need the part it’s called the receiver tube or shifter tube.
I changed my shift tube it’s my first time doing it to and I’m a bigger guy so getting them two bolts were a hassle cuz I couldn’t fit up under , but I replaced it and somehow I can only get netrual and. Drive it’s like somthing it else is bro or I missed or done somthing wrong
Are you sure you got that interlock solenoid installed correctly?
I Tighten the screws but when I put it in park it stops on the R and Reverse at N and so on what do I need to do to fix that
@@plowboy261 the tiny cable is probably broken, you can put it up in place and secure it with a small zip tie so long as it’s not completely destroyed
I just tightened these two screws as they were very loose.
Now after tightening them i cant shift anymore and the transmission would not move out of P? what did i do wrong 😂
Awesome, Thanks!!
Thank you 👍
Thank you!!!!!!
Does someone make shims for the sides of the shift lever/pin? That's where my play is or do I need to replace the shifter? Thanks great video:)
I think some had a c-clip looking shim that went over the shift lever and the pin held it in
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 my 98 F-150 did not have a clip. The pin was knerled on one end. After checking the pin for wear, which it had a lot, I decided to order a new pin. I'm assuming that the pin will wear more than the shifter.
@@timgiles9413 we ended up getting a new pin for this column, a small amount of wear translated into a lot of slack
I ordered a new pin on mine when I saw a lot of wear, and then I saw your reply.
Thanks for making the video. @@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387
Got a Part # for that gold T30 head bolt? I have one missing...
Ford pn# N806584-S36
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 Great, Thanks!
Can you help?
When i park, i have to leave it in Neutral and E-break. Because i can't get it out of Park. Did the dial adjustment, that just moves the needle.
Had to drop the dashboard to get to the heater core a month ago. Did something get bent i can't see?
Did you forget to plug the shift interlock back in?
Make sure you have brake lights, if something happened to the brake switch the interlock won’t work either
Hi.would like to know ..where does that pin. goes..bcuz..it fell off .. to my feet... as i was shifting to reverse on my ford ranger 98..
The pin goes at the end of the shift lever where it hooks into the receiver tube
Tighten 2 bolts and it will solve sloppy shift 90 percent of time
What size are them two bolts sir???
I believe they’re a T27 torx
what years are you talking about?
All through the 90’s and 00’s
27t?
I honestly never pay attention to what size they are but that sounds right.
What year of truck wasting.?
This was a 2002 F-250
Anyone know what the thread size is on the bolts. Found the head of one laying in the floor board tonight after seeing this video after an 20 mins of messing with it why I could barely get it to shift between R N D
I think they’re 6mm
M6x1.0 if memory serves
The plastic part that wire runs through is broken. How do you change that?
On the shift cable itself or the indicator?
Should be a ford recall damit
Any one near estacada Oregon want to make a few bucks and help a stranded family in a rv ?
Yeah, try not to talk about prostate issues when you're near the phone or the whole different kind of weird
@@MykeHawke-r9r I wonder if it was the sloppy comment or the ford reference that brought you here :-D
😂😂😂😂 that is not a easy fix 😂😂
Ohhhhooohhhooo is because its made in Mexico???????? No my frien is because is designed by usa igeniers .what is made in mx is made right dont make foolish others of your people's fault
Factory parts do not have a tag on them like that, if they do then you know they’ve been replaced at some point and even dealer parts will sometimes have a country of origin tag.
Epic this guy's good
Thanks for the thorough and detailed explanation. I replaced my bushings but there was still some slop, I'll check the other place you mentioned.