Goodman Pressure Switch Issue
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Goodman Pressure Switch Issue
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Some days I really wonder why we put ourselves through the stress of being a heating tech
I like to tee into the vacuum line with my manometer to confirm the pressure actually matches the pressure rating on the pressure switch. If I remember, the left pressure switch is for first stage and the right is for 2nd stage on those Goodman furnaces.
My husband watching and fixing at home it's really help .. And we are happy..❤🎉
Thanks for the video. I had the same problem on the same unit. It took me an hr to figure it out.I never had a code on the board .I saved your video I won’t ever forget it. Mine was in an attic vertical and not a lot of room.
Good job,good lighting,and you dont act like you hate your customers ,like a certain tech. On you tube. This is how professional we are in michigan.
What tech on RUclips hates their customers
Ok,let me put it this way , he acts like he hates people.and his job,so if i have to tell you, whats the point
@@MiHeatingGuy Steve lav?😂😂😂😂😂
So after a month of figuring out how this works and I modified the drain line coming off the elbow bypassing the drain trap and going directly into the pvc line, system works fine, no more short cycles, the back pressure of the drain trap that worked fine for the heat exchanger line to drain was the problem, this system worked for 14 years no problem, if problem comes back I'll know where to start my troubleshooting, thanks for video getting me to just figure it out!
I had a Goodman door safety switch do the same thing to me. They must have some really cheap parts in those furnaces.
Great job diagnosing the board issue. They can be tricky to fix. Keep up the good work
Working on mine right now. Goodman GMH950070. Inducer running continuous. Flashing 2 times indicating the pressure sw closed, inducer NOT running. But mine WAS running. 3 flashes means press sw not closed, inducer running. Hmmm. Confirmed safety circuit is complete, pressure switches open and close when they are suppose to. The next step is the hot surface ignition. It does not come on. The hot surface ignition is energized through the circuit board on the 120v side. I suspect the circuit board. Then came on RUclips to find some troubleshooting videos of the same furnace. Looks like you are working on the same model I have. Maybe not the same BTU but wire for wire and components the same. After watching your video I went back at it. Could not identify why the hot surface ignition wouldn't come on. Then one time it did just for a few seconds. The burner did not fire. I checked and re-checked the pressure switches because the problem seamed to revolve around them. Then instead of just turning the power switch off on the furnace I turned the T-stat off. The inducer continued to run. Even when I disconnected the W wire! So I pulled the circuit board out and checked the back for any issues. Nothing obvious. Put it back in, turned on the power and turned up the T-stat. Shazam, ignition and main burner! Something up with that board. It's almost 10pm and its going into the 20's tonight so I got lucky. BTW, I'm retired from 40+years in commercial/industrial refrigeration and HVAC. However I've been out of the field for about 20 years. 32 if you count my time as service manager. What a great industry to be in! Thanks for the help Michigan Heating Guy! Keep up the good work!
Get yourself atleast one universal pressure switch on the truck. They will work for almost all jobs and are cheaply priced.
🤯🤔
And they're a lot of fun to dial in!
Agreed, I just used 5 universals this week…. All goodmans lol
Good job my men,thank for your help,I got the same problem last night but, it is got fixed by itself, I order my pressure switch for replace it, I think that is the problem,my was running with flam for short time and get off , few mines later same time and now is running well 71 tempeture
I have the same furnace and I believe the same pressure switch is failing now. The furnace will sometimes run and finish its cycle and then a couple more cycles but eventually, i always get the same 3 blink error code. The error code indicates that the switch is stuck open. I've checked all the tubing, no cracks. I'll have to try the multimeter to be sure. I'm just a novice/new homeowner and I was stoked to see video with the same furnace I have. Hopefully I figure it out soon or I'll be paying the technician 😵💫
Any updates on your furnace and what the problem was? Because I am having the same exact issue.
@Prodigal Son it turned out to be a bad control board. I literally checked everything else lol. Didn't know how to diagnose the board. It's was a quick fix
@@nicholassaunders7521 Thank you so much. My new control board will be here Friday. I been going crazy. I was just about to buy a new inducer right before you responded. Gonna wait until I get the new board before I kick out anymore money.
@@dboog225 good luck. I hope that does the trick 👍
Faulty switch blow out lines jst cuz great video way to stay calm hvac brothers...
Interesting issue - my GUESS is the pressure switch measures closed and even does not show a voltage drop across it (signifying it was open) when in fact it was defective and not capable of passing the CURRENT flow required to energize the gas valve. That for sure was a crazy one huh?
I wonder should both pressure switch be replaced at the same time
Direct air intake, very important, my installer added an 18 inch pvc pipe and 90 degree bend to the air intake, it caused the furnace to suck in the top door and bump out the flame, I removed the snorkel, she runs
next time check the cabinet pressure switch for continuity, switch is normally open, if it closes likely issue is with the board, that switch must close on Goodman before gas valve will close
. I have seen this issue three times so far this season, once was the switch, twice were board failures
seen only when the board was turned over and examined, very very frustrating
I also use a 3 amp fuse to close that circuit after inducer starts, if ignition occurs, issue almost certainly is switch, as a matter of fact I got burnt on this very issue within the last 24 hrs. Even with over 40 yrs in this business, you can still get brain farts lol.
The ghosts in the machines... lol. It’s always the last call of the night !!
As soon as I saw the title I knew what switch it was. Been burned the same way.
I did one last month wouldn’t light as I worked on it I noticed wasn’t getting any exhaust from vent even though it was running apparently had new motor an fan . Fan was counter clockwise motor was a clockwise ,
My Badman is one year old and it has this issue.
Wow that’s crazy the switch is made it was probably not passing the full 28 volts to the other side. Weird. Should have seen how many volts were passing to the other side probably like 12 volts or something
Screaming at youtube: start the ignition cycle then jump the pressure switch!! Happy to see you got it. Very weird it showed continuity without wiring on but wasn't closing with the wires on. Poor internal connection making it open with the weight of the wires? Bit of a fuck around thats for sure. Ever figure out why the manual reset limit was open?
Why wouldn't you also check to make sure your IDM vent isn't blocked? If the switch is making but the SoO doesn't continue, couldn't a restriction in the vent stack also be causing it?
Goodman=Junk. The Pressure switches stick. I take the hose off and blow through them.Tap switch lightly with screw driver handle. Boom it works again. Clean drain lines often.
I just fixed my 10 years old Goodman furnace 2 flashes issue. Either need new pressure switch or new control board(most common). Dont waste money on service call. Easy just like replace light bulb.
Yup those are the only two issues. U sound like a homeowner lol
Alan, You sound like a fool
I hate pressure switches I had something very similar happen on a Colman furnace with the negative and positive sides tho this stupid switch.
Pressure swith with grey wires...usualy 0.1 " water column is a common corcuit for the gas valve.. Doesnt carry voltage
I had one once on this furnace where the pressure switch was shorted. Didn't realize it at first. The inducer would come on and immediately shut the furnace off and the lights would go dark on the board. The furnace would restart and continue to do this indefinitely. Took me hours to figure it out. When I ohmed out the closed pressure switch it was 100 ohms. Really strange call.
100 ohms dam. Thats suppose be OL.
Im seeing two pressure switches one your working with an one on right side the look Identical
Had the same thing happen. PS showed continuity with meter . With a slight load on the contacts in the switch it would be open.. about drove me nuts.... those goodman Costa Rico PS are garbage.
Working on a furnace is a hard work.
I was thinking that in the beginning of the video that the pressure switch think about jumping that but I'm not a tech glad to know it can be done I worked on car electrical system for 26yrs lol electrical gremlins get ya every time.
I’ve never seen that before. Good job. Let us know if that fixed it!
Think wat cause the pressure switch to damage sequence of operations
Can those switches cause the flame to chatter on and off really quick?
I was having the same problem on my goodman that I ran out of propane late spring and a few days ago they came out and filled the tank and I went to fire it up and everything worked except it wouldn't light and I was seeing any voltage to the gas valve so off and on working on and took the gas line off and was getting no gas so I go check the tank and idiot that delivered the gas didn't open the valve and then turned on the furnace again and it works, he must of been in a hurry to get out of my yard I have 4 lose attack roosters and a constant barking dog in the fence but those roosters will get ya everytime.
Those plugs on the gas valves are also junk....replaces a few of those valves
Hi thanks for the video. Hope you can point me out on my problem. I switched from heating to A/C and my SSZ14 is not starting. The error code on my goodman furnace AVPTC is C1 - LOW STAGE COOL - LEGACY MODE ONLY. Do you have any idea how to resolve this issue. The unit was working great during winter but now switching to A/C and the heat pump is not starting anymore. Thanks again Hugo
Zip tie your wire leads. Won't tangle up
Had Goodman pressure switch issues where if you put wire all the way on the stakeon it won’t close take it half off never has problem. Think the internal switch gets damaged
I was testing one and put the wire off for testing and it started working. I gotta see what happens after some time.
@@AnkurSethi108 if you took the wire off and it works you have a bigger problem furnace shouldn't work with wire disconnected very dangerous
@@Rainmaker88 I loosened it to put a probe on the contact. The whole thing is weird though, there was no voltage being sent to the pressure sensor. I was just tracing wires and it started working. I don't know if it was a loose wire or what the problem is. It might start failing again.
u find the problem at the beginning then u pass thorough and went deeper lol
I would have thought it was a bad gv you were getting 24v gas not letting out
HSI glowing before both pressure switches are closed? Odd, pressure switch closing insures flue is venting and not blocked, no Close, no HSI!
Every issue ive ever had with Goodman PS = Stuck Open!
I just had literally the same issue with the Goodman. Does any one know why this pressure switch keeps shorting?
junk
Maybe it wasn’t getting good contact until u crimped it to hold ur lead
🙂After getting screwed by a 5 star HVAC Co. I've been trouble shooting my goodman furnace that short cycles, works fine with the elbow on the inducer motor drain line in a bucket and heat exchanger drain line working the way it's suppose to, I ordered a pressure switch hoping it is the problem, I'm going to jump the switch and see if it fixes the short cycling, I also notice you're all over with your test leads, is there any voltage that would bite you and is there intermittent pressure switch issues that causes short cycles but if you put the drain for the elbow in a bucket instead of the drain trap that it's suppose to it works fine?
Did you thoroughly clean the condensate trap.
@@MiHeatingGuy One of the first things I did once I realized there was a drain issue
Also made sure exhaust wasn't plugged and clean air intake filter, I was making sure trap was clean, works fine on the heat exchanger drain, it's just when I plug in the elbow line to the trap it short cycles.
Tried a new pressure switch, still short cycles, going to look at drain trap again, it works fine for the heat exchanger case drain, just when I plug in the elbow drain line to trap, short cycles.
Have you ever had a goodman drain trap issue? I'm going to simulate a drain trap for just the elbow drain and see if it causes short cycles.
Well that was a thorough investigation of the path of voltage thru the wiring. I just haven't had many pressures go out. When I go out on maintenances, my company wants me to use the new field piece digital manometer with pressure switch diagnoses. If that pressure switch is out of the 1 percent. they want us to change them. Even if the furnace is only 2 years old. Would you agree with that?
no
Great video. Why is the pressure switch closing after the igniter is warming up? In most other brands, pressure switches must close before that. What a strange sequence of operation!!!!
it's a secondary pressure switch wired directly in series with the gas valve the board doesn't monitor. if the primary/main pressure switch wasn't closing, the igniter wouldn't have warmed up.
@@Jon-hx7pe youre right man i feel its a board issue. Or transformer issue. The pressure switch is not the issue it seems
Impossible. The induced draft motor comes on first. When it comes on, the pressure switch will close immediately allowing the HSI to come on, then the gas valve opens. There is no way the HSI gets power before the pressure switch closes.
Sorry but the end was funny 😂 when you 🖕 the unit off. I'm having problems too, is a Goodman package unit. Replaced a new pressure switch, it come on for a min or or 2 then cut out giving me a code 2 open pressure switch? Check everything out, even the all the safety switches and still nothing. Any recommendations?
Pressure port half plugged or cracked hose ????
Thank you for responding back. Hoes look good but don't hurt to change it but don't think that's the problem. It will cycles, run for a couple min kick off code comes on then after a few min then cycle again. Hope that make any sense.
We’re able to get it going I’m having the same issue?
I've had that model valve get sticky on first seasonal start ups. I give it a tap.
Manometer in &out gas pressure and pressure switch and vacuum test,tester.
It could have been the audio, but when it did fire,it was a different click sound
limit switch on the fan
Nice job
Ok job
Now what happens if you run straight power to the Air pressure switch? Until you get a replacement installed? Will that be an issue for furnace to run overnight?
You have to jumper the switch after the inducer motor is running.. (the board checks if the switch is stuck closed).. Then the furnace will run until the thermostat is satisfied
Why he didn't look at the flash codes,!!!
(Would you have any ideas on what to troubleshoot to figure out why the MANUAL BLOWER FAN ON and the AC BLOWER FAN won't work?)
I had a similar pressure switch problem with my Goodman propane gas furnace had a similar issue, intermittent gas valve working. Found the pressure switch N.O. wasn't closing and removed the vacuum hose connection to the inducer motor and water started pouring out of hose. The switch could not close because there was no draw from the inductor motor because the line was blocked by water. I put the hose back on the body of the inducer motor, removed the hose from the pressure switch and drained the rest of the water into a bottle. After all the water was drained and reattached the hose, the pressure switch began working OK now that it had the vacuum. I tested it for continuity by removing the hose, drawing on it like you would a straw and got continuity on the NO contacts. Testing the furnace the gas valve was working OK, no more intermittent issue. Not sure why the water was not draining and this was discovered after the end of summer when only using the AC which was working fine. But when I tried the MANUAL FAN ON OR AC I had no Blower Fan?! It worked before I started testing the furnace for heat. I tested the high and low fire pressure switches the same way and found the high fire was stuck open. Since I didn't have a replacement high fire pressure switch I put a jumper across the two wires together to eliminate it and I was still getting ignition and gas to the burners. So heat was working OK now but then I tried the MANUAL FAN ON & AC ON and found that the manual ON worked now to turn on the blower fan manually and trying the AC the fan worked with that too! However, replacing the high fire switch leaves the two wires on it OPEN until the inducer motor provides the vacuum so the MANUAL ON BLOWER FAN and the AC ON BLOWER FAN would not work again! I left the jumper on the two wires that went to the High Fire pressure switch to get the blower fan working until I could figure out what is wrong. Would you have any ideas on what to troubleshoot to figure out why the MANUAL BLOWER FAN ON and the AC BLOWER FAN won't work?
What pressure does this switch measure?
It measures the secondary drain, sits at the top of a cell if that switch can’t make it assumes the main drain is clogged
Do the follow up.
I some before one was board other was the switch is tricky because that's supposed to be open however the auxiliary being close says something funky happened. What I did on the pressure switch is what U did tracking all the safety in order. Disconnect the open side on the 2nd switch and furnace fired in 1st stage. The board knows its suppose to be open. Like another dude 100 ohms its another good way to verify
Weak diaphragm in the pressure switch
This confused tf out me
Under Pressure !
I always check pressures for a piece of Mind.to make sure it aint the board starting on second stage I believe he checked with out wires and it was close.
this problem will be back again :(
Yes it will
Dude are you serious
Rea