Mate - that is exactly why 180,000 plus people subscribe to yours and PP's channel - we get "warts and all" - and more importantly "improvise, adapt and overcome!" I know plenty of other channels out there that would have started this video with "I've decided the best route to go is to separate the mould into 2 halves" and conveniently skipped the initial struggle and the removal of the filler using the knife - thank you both for "keeping it real" and for pushing on to get that first class result at the end! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Thanks So much Mike, we really appreciate that.. There is no way i would have learned half as much from just watching videos.. there is no better way to learn than by making a mistake, and fully understanding it, knowing "why" something went wrong means you know how to avoid it... In this case, it wasn't to do with faulty mould release, after all it worked well on the test can! firstly I slightly over did the resin "wetness" and the job heated up too much, and being polyester resin it shrunk. then that combined with using soft, rattle can clear coat, which hadn't fully cured, it bit hard into it as it shrunk, and pulled some of the paint off.... as you saw, what pulled off was easily pealed away with a knife, so i was almost there.. just should have soaked less resin into the job, and painted the plug with 2K so it was harder.... Oh, AND made it in two halves..lol! Thanks again mate, making changes for the next step!
All part of the learning process , In my canoe building days we always sealed the plugs with a resin gel-coat layer rather than paint and left them for weeks before laying up a mould. With a new shape mould its always trial and error until you get a result - keep going you will get there !
The best part of watching this video is that you are doing it for the first time and there was not cut at all. You showed us a solution while was filming and didn't need to cut and find a way to show us that you already knew how to deal with it. Much respect, Del.
I wish you luck with making the dividers off the mold as you will have to place the divider on each side and inevitably there will be a gap the thickness of the divider which when the mold is broken will be a minimum 1 mm seam on the finished article. Sorry to say, but I think you will have to go back to the original buck and make a divider from 1 mm polypropylene, glueing one side to the buck with a plastic glue gun and filling any gaps with mold wax (easy Composites do a 500g block). The clean side mold can then be made, having first put 4 coats of release agent on the buck and the divider. when the first side has cured remove the divider but not thee half mold and 4 coats of release agent on the other side of the buck and the raised portion of the mold formed by the now removed divider. You will need probably to run a fine bead of wax into the junction between the divider and the half mold. You can then lay up the second half of the mold. When this has cured bolt the two halves of the mold together with bolts about every 2 inches, take them out and separate the molds. When making the actual piece more wax will be needed to make the two halves of the mold smooth at the seam, 4 to 6 coats of release agent and lay up the piece. I have never found PVA to be any good as a release agent as a) it does not release very well and b) the work you have put into getting a smooth buck is lost by the finish of the PVA when applied to the buck.
Thank you for your wise words of advice my friend, all of it points to one inevitable outcome and that is that I will have to bodywork the finished item, I've made the two mould lips now and they screw together in to one piece, I've fortunately managed to cut the mould in half dead straight so I covered the bench in plastic, laid the cut edges face down and created the lip against the bench top, the entire mould will be only narrower by the width of my tiny cutting disc which is 1mm and that's a tolerance I can live with. As I've said, I'm totally new to this, this is my very first moulded item from scratch and it's a wonderful journey of discovery... like I said, I know I'll have to bodywork the finished item but was planned anyway as I want it in the colour of the bike and a little primer and some sanding, hopefully, I can turn out a good result as my first effort.
Wouldn't call it a fail del, as you know I make moulds/repair yachts daily. Last mould I made of a matrix is still in the boat as the bastard wouldn't release. I've been off for nearly two weeks now with paternity so got to get the bugger out and crack on with getting it all laid up and back in the boat when I get back lol Liquid pva is a better choice, also.. as mentioned.. styrene eats the crap out of stuff, i would normally use some parcel tape and layup over that once waxed/pva
Thanks Chris, got myself some more provisions for the next step, some Yacht chandlers materials, Gel Coat and blue PVA so i should be better off next time.. just got to make that lip edge on the two mould halves so i can screw it together.. Thanks for oyur insight mate, and have a good weekend.
@@Moonfleet41 if you need any advice or anything dont hesitate to ask buddy, shame I can't help you out with materials but unfortunately transporting resins, catalyst etc in a rucksack on my bike probably isn't the best idea haha
@@Larcomes Ha ha, it certainly isn;t Chris, and i really appreciate that, it has been hellishly expensive wen i calculate everything ive spent so far right from the steel to make the plug.. but im deep into it now so committed to finishing it... Take care and thank you for the advice offer. ill certainly take you up on that if i get stuck... have a great weekend and keep safe.. Del.
Hi Del, well done persevering with the moulds. Suggest you use gel coat for the product as a first layer before the glass mat and resin. Ideally, gel coat for the first layer of the mould may have worked better as well. Gel coat is another expense as you need to buy it and resin and mat, but the results in terms of mould and product are vastly better. I used to make panels and flares for my race car from scratch...cheers.
Yes indeed, Gel Coat acquired for the next step, and you are right, it's yet another expense in an already huge pile of expenses.. This is turning out to be a very expensive process and that has been the biggest discovery..!
So if you had drilled maybe 2 or 3 small holes on the fiberglass but starting with just 1, you could have used your air compressor and using a rubber-tipped nozzle to separate the casting from the mold. Also, I have done molds similar to the one you are doing to cast a new part from an old one, and I have used window tint paper as the release mechanism because it is so slick and the fiberglass releases with some air pressure rather easily.
Amazing process, Del. Thanks for showing us the difficulties involved. I bet this covered many hours! For some odd reason, my wife only heard the audio part of the vid while I was watching and she was somehow prompted to call our dentist to set up our semiannual cleanings. Have a great week, both of you! 🏍👍🏍
Ha ha.. Sorry to get you booked in earlier than usual, i guess you'll have to be careful not to get mistaken for Donny Osmund now, maybe take the MIL around with you for a while to keep the underwear barrage down to a minimum..!
I don't consider that a fail at all. My dad always taught me, "There's no wrong way to learn how to do something. You're learning what NOT to do for the next go-round." Lookin' good so far, brutha!
Very wise words well said brother, couldn't put it better myself, you know how the world of keyboard experts is, everyone has to be a specialist or an expert!
No words of wisdom or: "you should have..." from me I'm afraid, but a hearty well done! for persevering with what looked like an impossible removal, yikes. It would have shattered into pieces if it had been me, I just know it, lol. Cheers!
Separate the edge with a small wooden wedge then give it a blast with your compressed air gun. I've been making moulds for 40+ years and used this method many times.
Hey Del, I don’t know anything about fiberglass. But if you made the glass thinner, maybe two layers would it have been flexible enough to pull off in one piece. Then you could add more layers of glass. Just my uneducated guess. Alan
looking good. Its one of those after the event thoughts, but some american mates who make stuff, use that weird frying pan cooking spray on their molds. If you check out ADAM SAVAGE model maker, former tv show host, special effects guru lol I think I saw him use it in one of his yt videos. Anyway.. package away.. again lol
Thanks buddy, i haven't heard that one, lots of other ghetto solutions, and i guess they all work to some degree.. Thanks again for your support, ill keep you posted on delivery too... D&Px
Having never tried that before Del, I'll take that as a win. Hindsight is a great science so no "you should have done this" or "should have done that" from me but how about if you do this again, instead of waxing the metal you use cooking tin foil or cling film???????
Ive used black bin liner plastic on the bench top many times to stop resin from sticking, it always just peals clean off.. so yeah, there are lots of options, some are expensive commercial products, and others just a ghetto fix that works... as long as it gets the job done aye.
Hi Del, it is all part of life's rich tapestry, some days you win and some you don't. Skip Donahue is right about bare metal moulds, we used a similar process in making canopies for railway coaches. Good save though, top marks for sticking with it, I would have had a tantrum and thrown it all in the bin :)
Ha ha, thanks mate, sadly we don't learn much from tantrums though aye.. in this case, i know what i did wrong, too much resin overheated it, that lead to it shrinking too much, couple that with soft rattle can clear coat, that wasn't hard enough... it just pulled the paint off.!! making some changes for the next step once ive modified the mould, and should be ok after that.! You're dead right mate.. Life's rich tapestry..!
“There seems to be a retention issue!” Cracked up at that!!! Wish people would understand that crap happening is part of the REAL world!! Otherwise it’s just TV!!! Here’s one I prepared earlier!!!😎👍
Noch mal auf Deutsch damit du mich verstehst: Auto ventile von den Felgen diese Gummi Ventile mit ein Kleben dann kannst du das Ganze sehr entspannt mit Press Luft trennen.
😂😂😂 laughing with you fella not at you! ( you know we’ll be laughing about this over a beer). I could feel your frustration. Everyday a school day buddy. I was waiting for the “crack” at some point, but hey…. It never came, so good news in that respect. I’ve never done this, I remember why now! Keep safe fella.
Sure thing buddy, it's not something I would choose to do again, but if for no other reason than the cost, it adds up beyond belief, the amount of stuff you need and it absolutely eats materials and you either buy them in small quantities from chandlers (and we all know what boats costs, and boy do they like to charge!), or you buy them in huge quantities that you'll never need!... Now we know why handmade body panels cost so much?!!!!!
@@Moonfleet41 Have to say though, it’s something I’ve often wanted to have a go at. For sure you have way more patience than I possess. Pretty sure i’d have been using the walls and a slick over arm action to help me get that fibreglass off the plug!!!!😂😂. Always found that method is great for the frustration, but crap for the end result!!!
Great endurance Del , a good save ! btw Methyline Chloride appears to be only commercially available in 200ltr drums for 600 quid. I guess they don't want a load of toxic avenger incidents ! I can see why .🤢 Peace and love brother 👍🏻☮♥️
Thank you James, as you may have noticed ive had lots of great advice from the many professionals out there, and great to be learning as i go, thank you for your kind offer.
Fingers crossed that mold will be usable after all the work you put in. It's always easy when you already know what you're doing but the fun part is learning how.
A large amount of persistence and all has paid off. Although, I was wincing, as you were aiming the 2 large screwdrivers t'ward your chest 😱 In the end, all came to good. Well done Del. Lessons learned, next time you'll find it easier. And, as usual, much love to yourself and PP 🤩
Sure thing Val, it was all safe, they were both deep under the mould edge and no chance of slipping.. thanks so much for your constant support as always mate.. God bless from us both.. D&Px
Nicely done. I'm still not sure what you are doing :/ but I'm taking notes. This could be really useful for all sorts of things in the future. Many thanks
Great save and worth sticking with. You did make me sweat a little whilst you were levering it out with the screwdrivers facing you. Thank god they didn't slip and stab you... Great video and looking forward to the next one.
Good job, next time with comprestair... the are a a lot of you tube video for advice, But... i still love to see you, do your thing, greetings for you and your loveone
What I'm wondering is why you used hairspray as PVA? Are those really interchangable, or did you accidentally grab the wrong can? Perhaps that's a big reason why the mould just wouldn't let go?
Read a few forums, its a common second choice, and lots of reports that it works... and the paints used on the plug were the problem, not mould release, the paint pealed off the mould in a few minutes..!
Hi Del it looked very stressful today but you pulled it back mate you could have warmed it up a little with Pennys hair dryer Life is a learning curve though take care
I might have tried warming it up with a heat gun or putting it in a freezer to try and get the parts to expand and contract at different rates maybe both one after the other.
Exactly that mate, the problems were two fold, and neither to do with mould release, firstly the rattle can primer and clearcoat doesn't cure hard enough to resist the chemicals in the resin and also I went a little wet on the resin lay up, which slightly overheated it so it shrunk, and like you say went snug! ... and as it squeezed the plug, it pressed in to the paint and peeled it off... and as you say, it didn't become one, so it wasn't about mould release!
You could have prevented that by holding your tongue in the correct position. 😂 Good to see a pro dealing with unexpected issues as they happen. And eat a sandwich, you’re getting skinny.
Hi Del and Penny. I felt your pain Del, when trying to remove the plug from the mould. Not had any experience in fibreglass moulding, except for bodging old cars - lol.
brother , I call it a win ! never a fail. And thank you for letting us be part of it . We just found a way no to do it. So we'll try a different way until we get it right ! great job brother ! cant wait for the next video. Stay safe guys cheers from new york !! 🥂👍
Hey Renzo, always good to hear from you Brother, and yeah, every setback is a chance to learn it for yourself and make it better next time. Keep well and safe, best regards from us both.D&Px
Hi. Did you fill the holes with something on the mold. You can use some clay. If you don't you get resin in there and the hole thing will stick in those holes. (Done a mold for a car bumper and found out the hard way many years ago...)
The idea to split it was definitely a save! I’ve migrated to epoxy resin over the years after having polyester do similar things, like partially melting or corrupting the plug surface.
I hope you got your doctor's permission prior to that cardiac workout😁 I bet Penny was chiming in with a few, 'take a break Del.' But us blokes ... task oriented. We press on 👍
What a bun fight Del, Oh my God I was thinking more about the stents in your heart as you were trying to release the plug just goes to show that you are truly back to to old self. Both you and Penny are truly blessed x
What a SAVE from Delboy!!! Lol. Looked painful doing that mate, bet you heart sank when you couldn't get it off? Hopefully it will turn out well in the end . Good luck with the rest of it. 😎👍🏍
You recovered well Dell .I worked in fibreglass for 2 years using 2 ounce matting.you should use a gel coat on top of molding.highly recommend the first coat of this after polishing the mold in the future Del and it will pop off like a champagne cork m8
Last time I saw a save as good as that Gordon banks was in the nets. I like the way you have the courage and perseverance to experiment and overcome. It was a real battle and eventually a success. Good learning curve thank you for sharing Del and Penny. 🇸🇪🇬🇧🙏😊
@@Moonfleet41 Yes indeed Del. I guess where there is an experiment there is always going to be added expense. Unless you are an old git like me where time becomes more valuable than money expenses 😜. Have a good day both, looking forward to your next masterclass thank you. 🇸🇪🇬🇧😊☘️👋🏻
Great effort, not everything goes to plan, but you've done a fine job or rescuing something that many would have thrown away and then started again! Top job 👍🏼
University of "hard knocks" as my mother used to say! Well done for saving it for the most part. Interested to see how things progress from here...…? Thanks for sharing Del.
I blame the hair spray.
Mate - that is exactly why 180,000 plus people subscribe to yours and PP's channel - we get "warts and all" - and more importantly "improvise, adapt and overcome!" I know plenty of other channels out there that would have started this video with "I've decided the best route to go is to separate the mould into 2 halves" and conveniently skipped the initial struggle and the removal of the filler using the knife - thank you both for "keeping it real" and for pushing on to get that first class result at the end! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Thanks So much Mike, we really appreciate that.. There is no way i would have learned half as much from just watching videos.. there is no better way to learn than by making a mistake, and fully understanding it, knowing "why" something went wrong means you know how to avoid it...
In this case, it wasn't to do with faulty mould release, after all it worked well on the test can! firstly I slightly over did the resin "wetness" and the job heated up too much, and being polyester resin it shrunk. then that combined with using soft, rattle can clear coat, which hadn't fully cured, it bit hard into it as it shrunk, and pulled some of the paint off.... as you saw, what pulled off was easily pealed away with a knife, so i was almost there.. just should have soaked less resin into the job, and painted the plug with 2K so it was harder.... Oh, AND made it in two halves..lol! Thanks again mate, making changes for the next step!
All part of the learning process , In my canoe building days we always sealed the plugs with a resin gel-coat layer rather than paint and left them for weeks before laying up a mould. With a new shape mould its always trial and error until you get a result - keep going you will get there !
The best part of watching this video is that you are doing it for the first time and there was not cut at all. You showed us a solution while was filming and didn't need to cut and find a way to show us that you already knew how to deal with it. Much respect, Del.
Thanks so much Andy, just working my way through an interesting project, one step at a time..!
I wish you luck with making the dividers off the mold as you will have to place the divider on each side and inevitably there will be a gap the thickness of the divider which when the mold is broken will be a minimum 1 mm seam on the finished article. Sorry to say, but I think you will have to go back to the original buck and make a divider from 1 mm polypropylene, glueing one side to the buck with a plastic glue gun and filling any gaps with mold wax (easy Composites do a 500g block). The clean side mold can then be made, having first put 4 coats of release agent on the buck and the divider. when the first side has cured remove the divider but not thee half mold and 4 coats of release agent on the other side of the buck and the raised portion of the mold formed by the now removed divider. You will need probably to run a fine bead of wax into the junction between the divider and the half mold. You can then lay up the second half of the mold. When this has cured bolt the two halves of the mold together with bolts about every 2 inches, take them out and separate the molds. When making the actual piece more wax will be needed to make the two halves of the mold smooth at the seam, 4 to 6 coats of release agent and lay up the piece. I have never found PVA to be any good as a release agent as a) it does not release very well and b) the work you have put into getting a smooth buck is lost by the finish of the PVA when applied to the buck.
Thank you for your wise words of advice my friend, all of it points to one inevitable outcome and that is that I will have to bodywork the finished item, I've made the two mould lips now and they screw together in to one piece, I've fortunately managed to cut the mould in half dead straight so I covered the bench in plastic, laid the cut edges face down and created the lip against the bench top, the entire mould will be only narrower by the width of my tiny cutting disc which is 1mm and that's a tolerance I can live with. As I've said, I'm totally new to this, this is my very first moulded item from scratch and it's a wonderful journey of discovery... like I said, I know I'll have to bodywork the finished item but was planned anyway as I want it in the colour of the bike and a little primer and some sanding, hopefully, I can turn out a good result as my first effort.
Wouldn't call it a fail del, as you know I make moulds/repair yachts daily. Last mould I made of a matrix is still in the boat as the bastard wouldn't release. I've been off for nearly two weeks now with paternity so got to get the bugger out and crack on with getting it all laid up and back in the boat when I get back lol
Liquid pva is a better choice, also.. as mentioned.. styrene eats the crap out of stuff, i would normally use some parcel tape and layup over that once waxed/pva
Thanks Chris, got myself some more provisions for the next step, some Yacht chandlers materials, Gel Coat and blue PVA so i should be better off next time.. just got to make that lip edge on the two mould halves so i can screw it together.. Thanks for oyur insight mate, and have a good weekend.
@@Moonfleet41 if you need any advice or anything dont hesitate to ask buddy, shame I can't help you out with materials but unfortunately transporting resins, catalyst etc in a rucksack on my bike probably isn't the best idea haha
@@Larcomes Ha ha, it certainly isn;t Chris, and i really appreciate that, it has been hellishly expensive wen i calculate everything ive spent so far right from the steel to make the plug.. but im deep into it now so committed to finishing it... Take care and thank you for the advice offer. ill certainly take you up on that if i get stuck... have a great weekend and keep safe.. Del.
Hi Del, well done persevering with the moulds. Suggest you use gel coat for the product as a first layer before the glass mat and resin. Ideally, gel coat for the first layer of the mould may have worked better as well. Gel coat is another expense as you need to buy it and resin and mat, but the results in terms of mould and product are vastly better. I used to make panels and flares for my race car from scratch...cheers.
Yes indeed, Gel Coat acquired for the next step, and you are right, it's yet another expense in an already huge pile of expenses.. This is turning out to be a very expensive process and that has been the biggest discovery..!
So if you had drilled maybe 2 or 3 small holes on the fiberglass but starting with just 1, you could have used your air compressor and using a rubber-tipped nozzle to separate the casting from the mold. Also, I have done molds similar to the one you are doing to cast a new part from an old one, and I have used window tint paper as the release mechanism because it is so slick and the fiberglass releases with some air pressure rather easily.
Amazing process, Del. Thanks for showing us the difficulties involved. I bet this covered many hours! For some odd reason, my wife only heard the audio part of the vid while I was watching and she was somehow prompted to call our dentist to set up our semiannual cleanings. Have a great week, both of you! 🏍👍🏍
Ha ha.. Sorry to get you booked in earlier than usual, i guess you'll have to be careful not to get mistaken for Donny Osmund now, maybe take the MIL around with you for a while to keep the underwear barrage down to a minimum..!
@@Moonfleet41 hehe- we should do precisely that!
We used to cast valves in car tires and then use compressed air to separate the parts.
Also the finish coat wasn't allowed to cure for long enough...
Quite possibly, it was rattle can clear, never really cures that hard.!
I don't consider that a fail at all. My dad always taught me, "There's no wrong way to learn how to do something. You're learning what NOT to do for the next go-round." Lookin' good so far, brutha!
Very wise words well said brother, couldn't put it better myself, you know how the world of keyboard experts is, everyone has to be a specialist or an expert!
Jack of all trades, master of none... as they say!
No words of wisdom or: "you should have..." from me I'm afraid, but a hearty well done! for persevering with what looked like an impossible removal, yikes. It would have shattered into pieces if it had been me, I just know it, lol. Cheers!
Thanks buddy.. it was a day of anxiety and elation.. a roller coaster day in the garage...!!
Separate the edge with a small wooden wedge then give it a blast with your compressed air gun. I've been making moulds for 40+ years and used this method many times.
😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆
Great job improvising to pull the project back on track. Results looked good from here.
Thanks Ken 👍, it's a great adventure!
Well, if all else fails you can still use the metal piece on the bike!
Hey Del, I don’t know anything about fiberglass. But if you made the glass thinner, maybe two layers would it have been flexible enough to pull off in one piece. Then you could add more layers of glass. Just my uneducated guess. Alan
That's a logical thinking mate, would certainly work in principle, but it works really well in two pieces now and looking forward to the next step!
I'm really impressed - round about 4.05 I would have hurled it across the workshop and hit the bar fridge....🤣
seeing how easily that paint came off i wonder if heating the buck up would have made it release easier? nicely done though!
Possibly mate, I think the main problem was using rattle can materials on the plug!
Why does the inside need to be pristinely smooth anyway? You could put cling film and wax over the mold then fibreglass.
looking good.
Its one of those after the event thoughts, but some american mates who make stuff, use that weird frying pan cooking spray on their molds.
If you check out ADAM SAVAGE model maker, former tv show host, special effects guru lol
I think I saw him use it in one of his yt videos.
Anyway.. package away.. again lol
Thanks buddy, i haven't heard that one, lots of other ghetto solutions, and i guess they all work to some degree.. Thanks again for your support, ill keep you posted on delivery too... D&Px
Having never tried that before Del, I'll take that as a win. Hindsight is a great science so no "you should have done this" or "should have done that" from me but how about if you do this again, instead of waxing the metal you use cooking tin foil or cling film???????
Ive used black bin liner plastic on the bench top many times to stop resin from sticking, it always just peals clean off.. so yeah, there are lots of options, some are expensive commercial products, and others just a ghetto fix that works... as long as it gets the job done aye.
Hi Del, it is all part of life's rich tapestry, some days you win and some you don't. Skip Donahue is right about bare metal moulds, we used a similar process in making canopies for railway coaches. Good save though, top marks for sticking with it, I would have had a tantrum and thrown it all in the bin :)
Ha ha, thanks mate, sadly we don't learn much from tantrums though aye.. in this case, i know what i did wrong, too much resin overheated it, that lead to it shrinking too much, couple that with soft rattle can clear coat, that wasn't hard enough... it just pulled the paint off.!! making some changes for the next step once ive modified the mould, and should be ok after that.! You're dead right mate.. Life's rich tapestry..!
“There seems to be a retention issue!” Cracked up at that!!! Wish people would understand that crap happening is part of the REAL world!! Otherwise it’s just TV!!! Here’s one I prepared earlier!!!😎👍
Very well said Phil.. but you know how it is.. !
Noch mal auf Deutsch damit du mich verstehst: Auto ventile von den Felgen diese Gummi Ventile mit ein Kleben dann kannst du das Ganze sehr entspannt mit Press Luft trennen.
Everyone misses a penalty kick Del. Thanks for sharing the experience. Both good and learning moments. ✌️
Fabulous analogy mate, and couldn't put it better myself!
That looked hard work time for a lay down me thinks
😂😂😂 laughing with you fella not at you! ( you know we’ll be laughing about this over a beer). I could feel your frustration. Everyday a school day buddy. I was waiting for the “crack” at some point, but hey…. It never came, so good news in that respect. I’ve never done this, I remember why now! Keep safe fella.
Sure thing buddy, it's not something I would choose to do again, but if for no other reason than the cost, it adds up beyond belief, the amount of stuff you need and it absolutely eats materials and you either buy them in small quantities from chandlers (and we all know what boats costs, and boy do they like to charge!), or you buy them in huge quantities that you'll never need!... Now we know why handmade body panels cost so much?!!!!!
@@Moonfleet41
Have to say though, it’s something I’ve often wanted to have a go at. For sure you have way more patience than I possess. Pretty sure i’d have been using the walls and a slick over arm action to help me get that fibreglass off the plug!!!!😂😂. Always found that method is great for the frustration, but crap for the end result!!!
Great endurance Del , a good save !
btw Methyline Chloride appears to be only commercially available in 200ltr drums for 600 quid. I guess they don't want a load of toxic avenger incidents !
I can see why .🤢
Peace and love brother 👍🏻☮♥️
Ha ha, that's possible a little more then i would need to strip 4 bike panels, so maybe the 2K will just become a handy basecoat..!
Del ... I'm a boatbuilder of 16+ years do u want a lesson in building plugs and building molds
Thank you James, as you may have noticed ive had lots of great advice from the many professionals out there, and great to be learning as i go, thank you for your kind offer.
Try to blow air in it, it may work
Fingers crossed that mold will be usable after all the work you put in. It's always easy when you already know what you're doing but the fun part is learning how.
Me too Gareth, ive a lot invested in it so far. and Wise words indeed.. it's always easy when you know how !
A large amount of persistence and all has paid off.
Although, I was wincing, as you were aiming the 2 large screwdrivers t'ward your chest 😱
In the end, all came to good.
Well done Del.
Lessons learned, next time you'll find it easier.
And, as usual, much love to yourself and PP 🤩
Sure thing Val, it was all safe, they were both deep under the mould edge and no chance of slipping.. thanks so much for your constant support as always mate.. God bless from us both.. D&Px
your a better man then me del, that mold would have been thrown across the garage ,but you saved it patience is a virtue
It is indeed mate, makes the end result all the more satisfying..!
"Breakin' up is hard to do" :)
Budum Tsh..
Nicely done. I'm still not sure what you are doing :/ but I'm taking notes. This could be really useful for all sorts of things in the future. Many thanks
Great save and worth sticking with. You did make me sweat a little whilst you were levering it out with the screwdrivers facing you. Thank god they didn't slip and stab you... Great video and looking forward to the next one.
Thanks mate 👍 i was conscious of that, they were safely inside the mould, but always a thought aye... thanks for your kind concerns.
Good job, next time with comprestair...
the are a a lot of you tube video for advice, But... i still love to see you, do your thing, greetings for you and your loveone
What a battle getting that thing off!
It was indeed Harold, but i won the battle in the end, so im happy with the outcome..
What I'm wondering is why you used hairspray as PVA? Are those really interchangable, or did you accidentally grab the wrong can? Perhaps that's a big reason why the mould just wouldn't let go?
Read a few forums, its a common second choice, and lots of reports that it works... and the paints used on the plug were the problem, not mould release, the paint pealed off the mould in a few minutes..!
Hi Del it looked very stressful today but you pulled it back mate you could have warmed it up a little with Pennys hair dryer Life is a learning curve though take care
Hi Dean. it's a great adventure and im really enjoying learning new things.. Have a great week mate and keep safe.
Perseverance pays 👏👏
If we're not learning, we're sleeping.
Nice job, getting it off without trashing it. Del.
Thanks Tim, big relief.
@@Moonfleet41 I thought so, too.
Don't think that's a fail, defiantly a learning experience. Hopefully it will be usable as you've put so much time and effort in to it
Thanks Alan, and fingers crossed, working my way along a new road, learning as i go.
Del if you uses gel coat first. it might have relest . i used blue reles its water soluble
Thanks Steve, i will be Gel Coating the mother mould when i make the belly pan.. learning as i go mate.
Good save Del, still useable and a great learning curve. Keep on a troshun. 😉
Thanks Andy. 👍
In the end this will make it easier to make your Kevlar. I live by the words of Bob Ross “no mistakes just happy little accidents “
Ah, the wonderful Bob Ross, could watch him paint all day, and oh to live in one of his cabins on the edge of a lake!
@@Moonfleet41 I’m with you, days when your sick you just lay on the couch and watch all day.
Good recovery❤️❤️
I might have tried warming it up with a heat gun or putting it in a freezer to try and get the parts to expand and contract at different rates maybe both one after the other.
A tad overdone perhaps, new recipes are always tricky, but at least you got plenty of crackling. Curvy learning eh? : )
Very true!
Well saved Del. I wouldnt have had the patience to ease those pieces off.
Thanks mate, with all i had invested in it, it was worth the effort.
think of it like this if it was that easy we wouldn't be watching you do it 🤣🤣
Think of it this way... you put enough release on the plug that it didn't become one, it was just a little snug.
Exactly that mate, the problems were two fold, and neither to do with mould release, firstly the rattle can primer and clearcoat doesn't cure hard enough to resist the chemicals in the resin and also I went a little wet on the resin lay up, which slightly overheated it so it shrunk, and like you say went snug! ... and as it squeezed the plug, it pressed in to the paint and peeled it off... and as you say, it didn't become one, so it wasn't about mould release!
But still, you got a plug that is intact and the mound is useable, for most that is considered a win.
Could have been worse. That could have been you at the dentist
Well done for having the courage to show the whole process. We've all been there for something or other. Great save!
Cheers Mark, "warts and all" etc, and it's great to have such sound advice from all the experts..!
Remember to use a tooling gel coat on the mother mold...
I will be doing that.!
Well done, it's not the success that teaches, it's the f***ups, head scratching and recovery's that make us better ( once the swearing has stopped )
Wise words well said Russell.
You could have prevented that by holding your tongue in the correct position. 😂 Good to see a pro dealing with unexpected issues as they happen. And eat a sandwich, you’re getting skinny.
Ha ha, thank you sir, Sammich ordered, and i knew i had the tongue in the wrong position..!
You get an A for effort !
Hi Del and Penny.
I felt your pain Del, when trying to remove the plug from the mould.
Not had any experience in fibreglass moulding, except for bodging old cars - lol.
That's how we all started at it wasn't it mate..!!! Good to hear form you always.
brother , I call it a win ! never a fail. And thank you for letting us be part of it . We just found a way no to do it. So we'll try a different way until we get it right ! great job brother ! cant wait for the next video. Stay safe guys cheers from new york !! 🥂👍
Hey Renzo, always good to hear from you Brother, and yeah, every setback is a chance to learn it for yourself and make it better next time. Keep well and safe, best regards from us both.D&Px
Good save mate hope it works right for you
Thanks mate. I hope so too.
Hi. Did you fill the holes with something on the mold. You can use some clay. If you don't you get resin in there and the hole thing will stick in those holes. (Done a mold for a car bumper and found out the hard way many years ago...)
Another tip is to use gel coat when you make the parts
The idea to split it was definitely a save! I’ve migrated to epoxy resin over the years after having polyester do similar things, like partially melting or corrupting the plug surface.
Yeah, no experience with this until now, but it's a great experience to be learning.
This is how my jobs normally go 😂
😋
Woh.......................... Close one there Del.
Cracking video. Good to see what can be salvaged when things don't go to plan Del - that looked like hard graft so get some rest it please mate
I hope you got your doctor's permission prior to that cardiac workout😁
I bet Penny was chiming in with a few, 'take a break Del.'
But us blokes ... task oriented. We press on 👍
Said that right Shane, get the job done and move on aye.!
(P) Great save, shame it was such a fight, at least it’s salvageable 😀
Sure thing mate... happy result.
Good job👍. Your a absolute champ.
Leverage ... 😅
No fail at all. A learning process. And a great save! And put the Dremel to good use. Your persistence pays off, Del.
Günter from Nürnberg/Germany
Thanks Günter 👍, having fun learning a new process.
What a bun fight Del, Oh my God I was thinking more about the stents in your heart as you were trying to release the plug just goes to show that you are truly back to to old self.
Both you and Penny are truly blessed x
Thanks mate.. every day is forwards, and each dawn a gift aye.! Good bless mate, have a good week.D&Px
What a SAVE from Delboy!!! Lol. Looked painful doing that mate, bet you heart sank when you couldn't get it off? Hopefully it will turn out well in the end . Good luck with the rest of it. 😎👍🏍
It's a great adventure that's for sure, and happy to be delving into a new skillset.
He'll Del I was litteraly holding my breath as you were prying those moulds off the plug
Great save mate.
Nick Australia
Thanks Nick, you and me both and really glad I conquered it in the end!
You recovered well Dell .I worked in fibreglass for 2 years using 2 ounce matting.you should use a gel coat on top of molding.highly recommend the first coat of this after polishing the mold in the future Del and it will pop off like a champagne cork m8
Thanks Karl, i will be using a clear Gel coat in the mould, and an industrial PVA too, so hoping for a better result next time.
i'm guessing using compressed air underneath won't separate it easier? thinking of how some guys remove bar grips
I consider it as a success.👍
Last time I saw a save as good as that Gordon banks was in the nets. I like the way you have the courage and perseverance to experiment and overcome. It was a real battle and eventually a success. Good learning curve thank you for sharing Del and Penny. 🇸🇪🇬🇧🙏😊
Hey Paul, thanks for your kind words, it is an adventure and fun to get involved in a new process (if rather expensive!), have a great mate, D&Px
@@Moonfleet41 Yes indeed Del. I guess where there is an experiment there is always going to be added expense. Unless you are an old git like me where time becomes more valuable than money expenses 😜. Have a good day both, looking forward to your next masterclass thank you. 🇸🇪🇬🇧😊☘️👋🏻
Compressed air & spatula will free it up...
No matter the challenge del prevails
I have to confess I did smile (a bit) when the mold didn't release itself. Great recovery though. Hard work M8 :) God bless :)
Thanks Tony, it's all a learning curve and am having great fun with it!
Great effort, not everything goes to plan, but you've done a fine job or rescuing something that many would have thrown away and then started again! Top job 👍🏼
Thanks mate. Plenty invested in it so far, so i guess it was worth saving if i could..!
Watch the old ticker when you are wrestling with the job.
Not a fail - only if you never do anything you will never screw up
😍
Going to the dentist tomorrow, ill be thinking of this video. I watch all your videos and I love the ASMR
Go over DelBoy’s garage, I’m sure he has some Kwel tools to help you out !!!!
Good work there nice save, never used fancy relase agents only ever used grease or wd 40. Waiting for the next instalment..
University of "hard knocks" as my mother used to say! Well done for saving it for the most part. Interested to see how things progress from here...…? Thanks for sharing Del.
Thanks mate, very much so, great way to learn new things. Fingers crossed!
Excellent
Good effort del 👏
Del it's not really a fail because with a little bit of extra work you pulled it off and saved it.. Nice job!!
As a release would not petroleum jelly (Vaseline) and or Cling film work. Just a thought.
Amazing patience. Well done. We're all rooting for you.
Thank you so much Stewart. 😀
Nice video Del & Penny. Bad luck mate, on the mould release. We live and learn, but nice save. Penny and you have a good week. Cheers
Thanks mate, you too, enjoying he process with this and leaning along the way.!
Phew wasn't expecting that - hard work learning and a good save Del
excellent recovery
Good save