If you fill the joint line with plasticine and trim it back with a stanley knife blade Del, you'll help seal the join on the mold and you won't get a prominent join line.
Thanks Mark, great advice, thankfully i have the join nice and tight all the way through so was at least going to fill what little gap there may be with wax.. so along the same lines for sure.. Thanks mate..
@@gingernutpreacher The two lip edges i created did the usual thing and pulled back very slightly as the resin cured and shrunk, so they aren't totally 90 degrees to the mould meaning they will sit very slightly back from each other when face to face...but the join between the actual mould face halves is tight..!
Well done ! :) making molds never is easy and it is the most time consuming element before you can make an end product. On the other hand, the body protection when working with fiberglass. I learnt hard way that any clothing of the type you are wearing is impossible to clean. There are always some 'needles' left in the fabric making it uncomfortable to wear. Since my first unpleasant experience I use disposable boiler suits made of laminated liquid resistant fabric. Those also have anti-static coating, so fibreglass doesn't stick to it. It says disposable but they are fairly strong and can be used multiple times, if not messed up too much. The only down side is in hot condition as they are non-breathable. Also, you most likely will need to fill-in the gap between sides, use Newplast plasticine or similar material to have smooth, no-groove mark product. :)
Hey del good save. A couple of tips moving forward as said by others plsticine for the join line, get it nice n hot in your hands and push it in from inside the bolted together mould then wipe it flush with a paddlepop stick as using a blade runs the risk of scoring the mould. Then lots of coats of release wax even better over a few days to ensre it very dry when you buff it. I would also use a good few layers of glass tissue before the kevlar on that deep nose edge to help avoid air bubbles and aid release. Don't forget the gelcoat. Once complete give the inside a flowcoat (gelcoat mixed with wax and styrene) to seal everything up. Good job, Bob.
Thanks for the wise words Bob, im awash with advice from all sides, it's all really helpful.. thankfully the join line between the two halves is tight all the way through, ill be taking the best care to make the best job i can of the prep.. as we work two videos (a week) ahead of publication, some of the time advice comes in when a job has already been done... but im on track and looking forward to it.. thanks again mate.
This kind of task shows how much preparation and time is involved in building something from scratch. Can you imagine the endless months, years involved in designing and building a new model motorcycle. Sure justifies the end price tag. Brill job Del, really enjoying the progression. 🇸🇪🇬🇧😊👋🏻
Very true indeed Paul, any prototype has hundreds of hours of somebody's love and commitment in it. For myself, just having a one-of-a-kind part on the project bike makes it special, something i made and nobody else has.. Thanks for your kind support mate, have a good week.
Hey buddy, i did make the initial plug in sheet metal, but wanted the finished item to be light weight and strong, the bike itself is a light weight street commuter at just 168kg, and any heavy accessories will just trash that advantage, plus im enjoying the process along the way..
You would be better off dumping all the resin into your tray, it would give you longer working time. Also some foam stiffeners glassed into the flanges might be of assistance. Glassing in some wood or metal pieces for leverage when removing the mold from the belly pan might be a good idea. You work cleaner than anyone I’ve seen do fiberglass.
Superb, Del! You’re an amazing guy… those extraneous fibers remind me that I’m going to have the unpleasant task of shaving the mother-in-law’s back again this week. Gets mighty thick in just a month’s time! Hope you and Penny are doing great! Stay warm… 🏍👍🏍
You sure they're hairs, i thought they called them quills.... try an angle grinder next time, can be a bit painful, but not if you keep your fingers out of the way..! Keep safe you too, and have a good week.. D&Pxx
@@garya3056 😀🦇🦇🦇🦇🦇🎃🎃🎃🎃🦇, don't worry, she'll be busy coming up to the 31st, you can just sit her on the porch and won't get a single trick of treat knock all night.!
Love your style as always mate. I use jewellers scales for mixing resin etc, much more accurate. May be useful for the final go with kevlar. Been listening to a couple of bands i like to share with people, see what you rekon... Amyl and the Sniffers try "Hertz" for a first listen. and Hamish Imlach try "Cod Liver Oil and the Orange Juice" and anything by The Mountain Firework Company. (Creeping Vine and Daylight Robbery are good to start) Hope you enjoy as much as I do mate. Luv n sparkles to you both from aus Cheers!
Good tip about the scales. I use kitchen scales and they are less than ideal accuracy wise. Could be problematic especially with resin like this where the ratio is so extreme
Are ye not tempted to include a 'belly-button' in the mold? - & maybe even sprinkle in a few hair clippings, before then filling it with a tastefully chosen pink builders foam - 'The Beer-belly Pan', you saw it here 1st. folks! Pardon? : )xx
Доброго времени суток всем. Извините, что не в тему. Сам из Минска. Беларусь. Помогите найти новый автоматический топливный клапан на полторашку. Спасибо. Всем ровных дорог!
Looks like it will work out for you in the end Del. The shape in this case doesn't seem to represent one that is terribly complex in the big scheme of things but this experience gained will certainly offer the opportunity to create more complex arrangements in the future if the opportunity presents itself! All the best.
Thanks so much for your kind words buddy, it's a fabulous journey and im really enjoying the learning process.. Thank you for your support and helping make it possible.. D&Px
Hi del when you do the kevlar moulding you can use play doh or plastersine to put in between the two half's of the mold. But make sure you get it smooth and flush coz it will be hard to split the two half's. Yet a great video again and keep up the great work 👍👍👍👍
Rubber hose sliced one side… clamp over the lips?? Over the bolts?? Lol… but that’s different what I thought was done… I liked the idea covering the scale… I wished I done that… ruined mine. Oh well..
Thanks Mike, happy to have saved it and now able to use it.. no excuses now, just waiting for the Kevlar to arrive. Hope you're both keeping safe and well, have a great week buddy.. D&Px
Nice work Del, and the learning go on to making a great mould. It's looking good mate, looking forward to the next one. Penny and you have good week, stay safe. Cheers
Thanks mate..👍 I'm learning lots about this difficult subject, there certainly is more to it that observations first convey...hoping for a workable result i can use on the bike.. Thanks for your loyal support as ever.. Del.
Yep, the Mk1 eyeball is good for a lot of things but this can be quite tricky. Looking good, on some more complex pieces don't be afraid to reduce the distance of the bolting points, but an inch or 2 is generally good enough.
Thanks Renzo, it is a new discipline for me too, making my way into a whole new skill set, the kind of thing ive seen done so many times but never realized how much there was to it, or how expensive it is too... look like im allmost ready now, so it'll be time for Kevlar next.. Take care and keep safe over there. D&Pxx
Thanks Dean. 👍 you're not wrong there mate, i had no idea it would all take this long.. but it's a great fun project, ans with luck ill have a usable belly pan i can fit to the bike and then get on wit hthe project.. take it easy buddy, and stay in touch.. Del.
Awesome results Del - live and learn, eh? This is taking a LONG time and I am loving every minute of it. I predict a stellar outcome for your Kevlar part. Take care, both of you. Love and hugs!
Thanks so much John, it truly is taking a long time, the biggest time consumer is curing and drying times... but im getting there, and have no high expectations, ill be happy with a workable belly pan i can sand and paint to fit onto the bike.. then move on to other things on the project...
Really looking forward to seeing how you lay up kevlar. Is it similar technique to glass fibre sheets and resin.? Seems you're on a very steep learning curve, hopefully enjoying it as you go. And, as always, much love to yourself and PP 🤩
Thanks Val, it's more than steep, its downright vertical at the moment... the main fundamental difference with a non stretching, stiff, thick woven cloth is that it doesn't shift about and move like fiberglass..Imagine trying to laminate thick Denim that's been starched..! so it'll be a real challenge... but nothing ventured nothing gained aye..!!
@@Moonfleet41 as you say, nothing ventured, nothing gained. And when the job is done, and done well, as I have no doubt it will be. You will fit it to the bike and sit back with the warm glow of satisfaction that only comes from doing a bleddy good job yourself.
Presume, by 'part' you mean the plug that you're making the mould around, if you make it stiff enough (as I did), you should be able to pull them out, but if you're moulding a fragile part, you can make the mould in two separate halves, slightly overlapping, and then trim off the excess to find the exact centre line upon which you can then create the flange.
Hope so Nick, it's all a long way from perfect, but all i want is a workable belly pan i can use on the bike.. no matter how rough it turns out, it's getting 'bodyworked' and painted in with the rest of the bike's panels, and that i can get right with no difficulties..!
If you fill the joint line with plasticine and trim it back with a stanley knife blade Del, you'll help seal the join on the mold and you won't get a prominent join line.
Thanks Mark, great advice, thankfully i have the join nice and tight all the way through so was at least going to fill what little gap there may be with wax.. so along the same lines for sure.. Thanks mate..
@@gingernutpreacher The two lip edges i created did the usual thing and pulled back very slightly as the resin cured and shrunk, so they aren't totally 90 degrees to the mould meaning they will sit very slightly back from each other when face to face...but the join between the actual mould face halves is tight..!
Well done ! :) making molds never is easy and it is the most time consuming element before you can make an end product.
On the other hand, the body protection when working with fiberglass. I learnt hard way that any clothing of the type you are wearing is impossible to clean. There are always some 'needles' left in the fabric making it uncomfortable to wear. Since my first unpleasant experience I use disposable boiler suits made of laminated liquid resistant fabric. Those also have anti-static coating, so fibreglass doesn't stick to it.
It says disposable but they are fairly strong and can be used multiple times, if not messed up too much. The only down side is in hot condition as they are non-breathable.
Also, you most likely will need to fill-in the gap between sides, use Newplast plasticine or similar material to have smooth, no-groove mark product. :)
Hey del good save. A couple of tips moving forward as said by others plsticine for the join line, get it nice n hot in your hands and push it in from inside the bolted together mould then wipe it flush with a paddlepop stick as using a blade runs the risk of scoring the mould. Then lots of coats of release wax even better over a few days to ensre it very dry when you buff it. I would also use a good few layers of glass tissue before the kevlar on that deep nose edge to help avoid air bubbles and aid release. Don't forget the gelcoat. Once complete give the inside a flowcoat (gelcoat mixed with wax and styrene) to seal everything up. Good job, Bob.
Thanks for the wise words Bob, im awash with advice from all sides, it's all really helpful.. thankfully the join line between the two halves is tight all the way through, ill be taking the best care to make the best job i can of the prep.. as we work two videos (a week) ahead of publication, some of the time advice comes in when a job has already been done... but im on track and looking forward to it.. thanks again mate.
This kind of task shows how much preparation and time is involved in building something from scratch. Can you imagine the endless months, years involved in designing and building a new model motorcycle.
Sure justifies the end price tag.
Brill job Del, really enjoying the progression. 🇸🇪🇬🇧😊👋🏻
Very true indeed Paul, any prototype has hundreds of hours of somebody's love and commitment in it. For myself, just having a one-of-a-kind part on the project bike makes it special, something i made and nobody else has.. Thanks for your kind support mate, have a good week.
@@Moonfleet41 Exactly and one to be very proud of! Have a good week also D&P. 🇸🇪🇬🇧😊👋🏻
Hey Del. Why not make it out of metal? Never played with fiberglass so I am enjoying this series.
Hey buddy, i did make the initial plug in sheet metal, but wanted the finished item to be light weight and strong, the bike itself is a light weight street commuter at just 168kg, and any heavy accessories will just trash that advantage, plus im enjoying the process along the way..
@@Moonfleet41 👍
You would be better off dumping all the resin into your tray, it would give you longer working time.
Also some foam stiffeners glassed into the flanges might be of assistance. Glassing in some wood or metal pieces for leverage when removing the mold from the belly pan might be a good idea.
You work cleaner than anyone I’ve seen do fiberglass.
Ah - I wondered how you would make that joining lip - clever idea using the work surface and polythene - nice job you two! God bless and go safe! 👍😁
Thanks so much Mike.. it seemed the common sense solution.
Superb, Del! You’re an amazing guy… those extraneous fibers remind me that I’m going to have the unpleasant task of shaving the mother-in-law’s back again this week. Gets mighty thick in just a month’s time!
Hope you and Penny are doing great! Stay warm… 🏍👍🏍
You sure they're hairs, i thought they called them quills.... try an angle grinder next time, can be a bit painful, but not if you keep your fingers out of the way..! Keep safe you too, and have a good week.. D&Pxx
@@Moonfleet41 lol yes her nickname is Porky. Those quills have been shooting my way for years. 😎
@@garya3056 😀🦇🦇🦇🦇🦇🎃🎃🎃🎃🦇, don't worry, she'll be busy coming up to the 31st, you can just sit her on the porch and won't get a single trick of treat knock all night.!
@@Moonfleet41 lmao!
Love your style as always mate.
I use jewellers scales for mixing resin etc, much more accurate.
May be useful for the final go with kevlar.
Been listening to a couple of bands i like to share with people, see what you rekon...
Amyl and the Sniffers
try "Hertz" for a first listen.
and Hamish Imlach
try "Cod Liver Oil and the Orange Juice"
and anything by The Mountain Firework Company. (Creeping Vine and Daylight Robbery are good to start)
Hope you enjoy as much as I do mate.
Luv n sparkles to you both from aus
Cheers!
Good tip about the scales. I use kitchen scales and they are less than ideal accuracy wise. Could be problematic especially with resin like this where the ratio is so extreme
Bought some jewelers scales, game changer!
Are ye not tempted to include a 'belly-button' in the mold? - & maybe even sprinkle in a few hair clippings, before then filling it with a tastefully chosen pink builders foam - 'The Beer-belly Pan', you saw it here 1st. folks! Pardon? : )xx
Доброго времени суток всем. Извините, что не в тему. Сам из Минска. Беларусь. Помогите найти новый автоматический топливный клапан на полторашку. Спасибо. Всем ровных дорог!
Looks like it will work out for you in the end Del. The shape in this case doesn't seem to represent one that is terribly complex in the big scheme of things but this experience gained will certainly offer the opportunity to create more complex arrangements in the future if the opportunity presents itself! All the best.
Thanks so much for your kind words buddy, it's a fabulous journey and im really enjoying the learning process.. Thank you for your support and helping make it possible.. D&Px
Hi del when you do the kevlar moulding you can use play doh or plastersine to put in between the two half's of the mold. But make sure you get it smooth and flush coz it will be hard to split the two half's. Yet a great video again and keep up the great work 👍👍👍👍
Thanks Karl, great advice, i reckoned on feeding a line of wax deep into the join for the same reason... thanks for watching too buddy.
Rubber hose sliced one side… clamp over the lips?? Over the bolts?? Lol… but that’s different what I thought was done… I liked the idea covering the scale… I wished I done that… ruined mine. Oh well..
The Garden hose can work also.
Just tare it out and good as new.
@@wobblysauce … add some spikes ??
It's all coming together . Or should that Be .. "Moulding" together 😉 .
Cheers mate.. i see what you did there.
Excellent save on the mould! Looks like it was meant to be that way all the time. Schweet!
Mike
Thanks Mike, happy to have saved it and now able to use it.. no excuses now, just waiting for the Kevlar to arrive. Hope you're both keeping safe and well, have a great week buddy.. D&Px
Oooh Yesh! ....sorry wrong Churchill!
Looking good Del, your patience is once again paying dividends .
Peace and love brother 👍🏻☮♥️
Thanks Brother Springy..👍 loving the journey..!
That's great Del looks like you are now well on the way to that perfect mould 👍
Thanks Richard 👍, im sure it's far from perfect, id just settle for viable at this point..
Nice work Del, and the learning go on to making a great mould. It's looking good mate, looking forward to the next one. Penny and you have good week, stay safe. Cheers
Thanks mate..👍 I'm learning lots about this difficult subject, there certainly is more to it that observations first convey...hoping for a workable result i can use on the bike.. Thanks for your loyal support as ever.. Del.
Yep, the Mk1 eyeball is good for a lot of things but this can be quite tricky.
Looking good, on some more complex pieces don't be afraid to reduce the distance of the bolting points, but an inch or 2 is generally good enough.
great video brother ! we are learning as you go . Keep up the great work , can wait till the next one 👍, stay safe guys cheers from new york !!!!🥂🤟
Thanks Renzo, it is a new discipline for me too, making my way into a whole new skill set, the kind of thing ive seen done so many times but never realized how much there was to it, or how expensive it is too... look like im allmost ready now, so it'll be time for Kevlar next.. Take care and keep safe over there. D&Pxx
Hi Del you are putting a lot of man hours on this mate and it paying off mould halves looking Awesome
Thanks Dean. 👍 you're not wrong there mate, i had no idea it would all take this long.. but it's a great fun project, ans with luck ill have a usable belly pan i can fit to the bike and then get on wit hthe project.. take it easy buddy, and stay in touch.. Del.
So far so good Del! Let's hope this process works out better. Thanks for sharing,
I hope so too Shaun, it's a great learning process and hopefully a good result.
That came together nicely!....... I'll get my coat...
Awesome results Del - live and learn, eh? This is taking a LONG time and I am loving every minute of it. I predict a stellar outcome for your Kevlar part. Take care, both of you. Love and hugs!
Thanks so much John, it truly is taking a long time, the biggest time consumer is curing and drying times... but im getting there, and have no high expectations, ill be happy with a workable belly pan i can sand and paint to fit onto the bike.. then move on to other things on the project...
Really interesting as this is something I have never tried and have no experience of at all.
Me too Giles, into new territory myself here.. so learning as i go and having a great adventure..
Really looking forward to seeing how you lay up kevlar.
Is it similar technique to glass fibre sheets and resin.?
Seems you're on a very steep learning curve, hopefully enjoying it as you go.
And, as always, much love to yourself and PP 🤩
Thanks Val, it's more than steep, its downright vertical at the moment... the main fundamental difference with a non stretching, stiff, thick woven cloth is that it doesn't shift about and move like fiberglass..Imagine trying to laminate thick Denim that's been starched..! so it'll be a real challenge... but nothing ventured nothing gained aye..!!
@@Moonfleet41 as you say, nothing ventured, nothing gained.
And when the job is done, and done well, as I have no doubt it will be. You will fit it to the bike and sit back with the warm glow of satisfaction that only comes from doing a bleddy good job yourself.
@@Val750 Thanks Val, i couldn't have put it better myself.
Great job! looking forward to the next one.
Nice
Looks good better luck this time, great vlog again thanks Steve
How do I make a split mode without cutting the part in half?
Presume, by 'part' you mean the plug that you're making the mould around, if you make it stiff enough (as I did), you should be able to pull them out, but if you're moulding a fragile part, you can make the mould in two separate halves, slightly overlapping, and then trim off the excess to find the exact centre line upon which you can then create the flange.
Good on ya mate for having a go at this.
Why don't you just use the metal one on the bike?
Because it weighs over 3kg's... the coming Kevlar version will weigh less than half that, and for a light weight street bike, that's important.
ok.
Thin metal plates and 3kg.
Metal one woud be nice .
That's going to make life a lot easier Del
Well done mate
Nick Australia
Hope so Nick, it's all a long way from perfect, but all i want is a workable belly pan i can use on the bike.. no matter how rough it turns out, it's getting 'bodyworked' and painted in with the rest of the bike's panels, and that i can get right with no difficulties..!
Cracking job! Nailed it Del!
👍😎👍
there ya go Del you learn something new everyday bud atb iain
Cheers Iain, yes mate, every days a school day aye.!
Hey mate! How are you doing? Do you feel ok? Your heart ok?
Thanks mate, im fine, on the mend and getting stringer all the time... Thank you for asking..
@@Moonfleet41 Take care, and if you have to make the videos shorter, that's ok too.
@@ATS-937 Thank you so much for your kind words.. each videos takes two days to make, so i just carry on at a steady pace..
looks good!
Thank you Kindly Sir.. the big day is coming..! (Thanks to your help !!)
@@Moonfleet41 your very welcome.
Damn the quality of your work continues to increase at a rapid rate!!!! Looking excellent.. pretty professional so far!!!!!!
i hope that belly pan is suitable for vegans wait no its got lamb in it . crap joke i know lol
Nice job, Del.
Günter from Nürnberg/Germany
Excellent save and I think after the time and effort spent on this it will be a top notch cast. Great stuff Del!
Thanks Jeff, i hope so!
Great job Del, as I know from experience it’s a sticky messy job, and you’ve got to be quick before it goes off, well done mate.⚙️🔩🔧👍
Absolutely mate, both of those things, proper messy and expensive too..!
Great job del 👍
Thanks 👍
Great work.
Thank you! Cheers!
When two became one, came together nicely. Getting there now 👍🏻
Sure thing buddy, every step is one closer..
Nice job Del, got to say though, I was itching through most of it, looking forward to the next instalment, 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Ha ha. You and me both Pete lol!
Fantastic Del impressive👌
Thanks a lot 😊