How to Make a Carbon Fiber Car Bonnet/Hood - Part 1/3 : Making the Mould
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Project page and complete shipping list at:
www.easycompos...
Incredible series of advanced composites video tutorials showing exactly how to make a professional carbon fibre (fiber) car bonnet/hood. In Part 1 of the series we demonstrate the process of making moulds for the inner and outer skin by using the original steel part.
Full details of this project including links to buy all products at:
www.easycompos...
Starter kit containing all of the mould making materials:
www.easycompos...
Calculating how much time this takes, price to be paid for ignoring wife and family. How many shifts of overtime it would take to buy this.......looks like I'll pick up a few shifts of overtime and have this delivered when my wife is gone to visit family.
If you can put it on a separate card. One she can't see so you don't get caught.
Definitely a project better saved for items that aren't commercially available
On that basis you’d never find a lawyer mowing the lawn!
And the price of possible failure.. not worth it.. fiberglass on the other hand, cheap, easy
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
You completely nail it!
I wish I had someone like your company in my area...
Anywhere that builds boats could help you
Anywhere that builds boats could help you
Absolutely nailed it, presentation and editing were flawless, as was the technique!
damn thats a lot of work.. we need a 3d printer that makes good quality carbon fiber parts
That was amazing :O
is there a list for absolutely everything i need to create a hood?
Motiondawgg : Yes, we do have lists like this which we can send you however we need to know what (if anything) you have already along with the size of the hood you want to make. If you email sales@easycomposites.co.uk we'd be happy to talk it through with you.
I've seen that in some videos, an oven(or autoclave) is used, while in others, like yours, no oven is used. I really need to know, what advantages do the autoclaves/oven processes add to the carbon fiber??
+Dave Njoroge In fact we've featured oven cured prepreg in some of our other videos. Basically, you'll end up with similar (though not identical) results from resin infusion, out-of-autoclave prepreg and autoclave cured prepreg in terms of appearance and resin/fibre ratio. The main differences are the raw materials you need to use and the practicalities of using the different processes, depending on what you're trying to make. In addition, curing at elevated temperature (or post-curing to elevated temperature) can improve the operating temperature of the cured component and get the most in terms of mechanical properties from the resin system.
Easy Composites Ltd Thanks for the response, so what you're telling me is, when an oven is used, the parts are able to withstand more heat and perhaps more loads/stresses?
Yes, if you oven cure resins they will develop better mechanical properties than ambient only cured resin and they will certainly be able to take higher temperatures.
Easy Composites Ltd thanks for this information really. I'm looking forward to starting a carbon fiber automotive parts business in my country, and im currently combing your website for things i will need. I have to admit, you guys are really good at what you do, and you have been an absolute inspiration and motivation to me and my project. Thanks for these wonderful videos..keep up the excellent work!
+Dave Njoroge Thank you Dave; you're very welcome - it's our pleasure to help and inspire others :)
This is asmr
18:45 What is this wax additive? is this in your store aswell? please help!
Solution MW is the name of the wax additive. You can find it here: www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/resin-gel-silicone-adhesive/polyester-and-vinylester/solution-mw-wax-gelcoat-additive.html
Can this carbon fiber fabric be used as seat upholstery?
No, definitely not I'm afraid. Carbon fabric - before it's been laminated with a resin - is incredibly delicate and vulnerable. You simply can't use it like a conventional fabric.
Which material use the easy-lease in the 1st step ?
You use any good quality lint free wipe or cloth to apply the EasyLease to the pattern.
Do you have a distributor in the US?
Hi, we can ship to the US, no problem in fact we ship every day and have a great customer base in the States. Smaller orders containing Dangerous Goods such as Resin and Solvents can be a little expensive, but the good news is that you can get an accurate shipping cost easily on the website, simply add items to your basket and then choose ‘United States’ on the basket page. If you have any questions though, feel free to drop us an email to sales@easycomposites.co.uk
Ok so I have completed one side of a body kit for my firebird 69 now I don't know how to make the other side? Can you help? I made one side out of fiberglass.
If it is a two sided part, like a hood with a frame, you need a second mould made to make the frame.
Easy Composites Ltd I get the hood process! What i don't get is how to make the right side of something to match the other side. Because the other side has not been made. R to L? Opposite side?
mobile moe tint i can think of a number of ways to do this. Obviously it's easier if the part is off the car. You could either order a new body part from gm, order an aftermarket body replacement or use a junkyard part. Make sure it's clean and rustfree. Put a light coating of adhesive on the part. Then layer some plastic over the part (you could even use a garbage bag, a plastic tarp, etc.) Coat it with wax. Then layer fiberglass over it one layer at a time. Once your mold is strong enough, remove the mold then create your carbon fiber pieces from this mold on a table top. Repeat for the other side as needed.
Brian Weir don't think you understand what I'm saying it's a body kit part I fabricated there is not one other part I like in this whole wide world so I can't just go out and buy another I have to fabricate another and I just don't know how to do it do you understand what I'm saying? Just in case you don't understand I have made the right side of the car there is no left side so how do I make the left side identical to the right side any ideas?
mobile moe tint somehow or another you would have to construct a mold for the other side. The only sure way would be to get the parts for the other side to fabricate your mold.
Best quality video from 2012 I've ever seen! Great explanation. Clear, detailed. Spot on.
would've never looked when this video was uploaded until you pointed it out. you are so right tho. this video is quality.
Worth saving 1,500 dollars to make my own
I really wish I'd watched this $200 (in materials) ago. :)
Great series - thanks for taking the time to make these videos. I used hot glue to attach flange forms to my plug, but didn't put tape down beforehand. Because, hey, how hard can it be to remove hot glue?
(ProTip: It's not difficult, but super time-consuming. Use the tape.)
Also, filleting wax is freaking impossible to find in the US. I've found that a sulfur-free oil-based modeling clay works very well. It doesn't dry out, PVA will stick to it, and it's easy to remove from the plug once the mold is complete. (I'm not an expert - just making this stuff up as I go along.)
I have work due in an hour, and I’m watching this. Nice work self!
Knocked it out of the park! By far the most detailed, professional, well thought out and executed training video on producing (complex) parts I've seen on RUclips to date.. Thoroughly inspiring. And this is from a "supplier"? Builders take note.. This is how you do it, IMHO. String a few of these vids together on DVD and the only question I would have is "where do I send the money?" :o) Companies like this deserve our business. I'm in the US but will be looking to Easy C. (in the UK) to "help" me get started. This is not the type of process where you want to skimp on price or talent. GR8T job guys (and gals). Really appreciate it. p.s. Thank God there was no music :o]
I Must agree... i was well educated and informed about the process... hoping that one day i can make some Carbon parts for my 2017 Elantra!
That looks like it takes a lot of patience, but still looks pretty easy watching him do it. We'll see what making the actual part looks like. Well done and using proper clear and concise English. I'm just glad the guy is not from India.
@@guyrodges244 I know what you mean. I don't dislike people from India, the accent, I'm sorry to say, is too thick for me too
OvalWingNut
While watching this video, I was planning my comments, but you took the words right out of my mouth. Well spoken and good luck to your business.
You're welcome. Please just spread the word about our company; we do these videos to share our passion for carbon fibre and composites and to raise our profile around the world. If the 100hrs+ we put into filming and editting this series helps a few people to make some really amazing parts (or even start a business) and gets us one or two links on forums and blogs then it's all worthwhile.
Off course sir I will share your work. I'm trying to get out of poverty with this skill. Long story but I have a trade under me and I will rise again..I will help you also along the way.
You’ve ruined me for watching other composite molding videos… All I could think was “have they not seen how to make a proper mold?!” 😅😹😸
The mould making process (as shown in this video) does produce fumes, you need good ventilation and you could also wear a mask. At normal low levels it's not dangerous. Making the part itself (the resin infusion) is low risk; good ventilation should be adequate. Trimming the part requires (video 3) requires a good mask because you're generating lots of fine dust. Take a look at our new cutting safety video if you want to learn more about masks.
I must say, I'm so impressed by the professional process used. I guess that's why you end up with the immaculate finish. Cant wait to see how the final product turns out!
Who is here because it was recommended after watching b is for build 😜
Just watched that video and the very first comment recommended these guys. And now I'm here like you.
@@camarocharger8180 but B is for build is doing it wrong. I told him about this place.
Ayeee
Here 😂😂😂
Chris Finkbohner I realized I’m 17 hours late are recommending this link 😂
19:30 When you hear that sound in a staff meeting don't move.
Hilarious 😆
Came here for this
lmao
When watched through our website, we have a shopping list of materials next to the video.
The list is not working. Please, check it out! Thanks! 💪🏻
Depends on the engine bay temperatures. A engine with good heat shielding will generally not be a problem as the air temp under the bonnet will not likely reach more than 60C. Some high powered cars may be higher so you need to check.
You're welcome! We're working on some more pretty exciting professional carbon fibre tutorials so keep an eye on our site and this channel!
Have you ever tried using a ball stylus tool to smooth the clay/wax to a smooth an even fill? Comes out looking like brick mortar and you can match the ball size to the curve needed to prevent locking.
@@affenjunge1615 Yes, in fact we now stock and supply Ball-End Wax Filleting Tools.
Look mate i guess ppl need your whatsapp number. Well i need it anyway
Yes, the mould can be reused dozens if not hundreds of times. We use Uni-Mould based moulds in our own workshop for some of our production parts and they wear very well. The more you look after them the better they will last. By having a good gelcoat finish you can also at occasional intervals re-polish the mould to take out any scratches or dulling that has occured with regular use.
What if I wanted to make an air vent, for example, like on a Subaru WRX ?
@@crossbreedperformance Do you mean at the same time as moulding the rest of the hood/bonnet or do you mean as a separate piece to bond on after?
@easycompositestv when I initially asked, I meant at the same time as moulding the rest of the hood, but now that you mentioned doing it separately I'm curious about that as well. My question on the second one how would I bond and blend it if I did it separately? Any shared knowledge on both ways would be greatly appreciated.
The human mind at its best, magic, I absolutely love it, wowwwww
I would like to do as much of my car as possible , I have a '67 Toronado - nearly 5000lbs ! This video series has really inspired me to Replicate all the front end metal -Hood Fenders in and out - Rad support and the valences , Doors deck lid and I even would like to attempt to do the Body Shell ..
I love the video, it gives me a new appreciation into why carbon fiber parts are so bloody expensive. I wanted to make parts for my old 82 LeSabre, Buick, just to be different and improve it's economy but had to sell the car. I was slightly regretting it when I read the title to this video then I thought, holy hell you used up like 8 sheets of fiberglass matting, chopmat, and you haven't even made the part yet. I would have rather just stripped the parts off the car, sent them to you and have you do it because to quote another American, "ain't nobody got time fo dat (Kimberly "Sweet Brown" Wilkins)"
It is a time consuming process but as you have seen, the results can be stunning. For many individuals, the "cost" of their own personal time is well worth it, versus the cost of buying or commissioning someone else to make the parts.
I know the feeling, when I would tear down and rebuild the top half of my own engine then to hear it fire up on the first try was quite the experience, dropping off a broke down car then picking up at a shop running again just isn't the same.
9 no NJ moo y bl ki6
Lots of patience required to do this line of work. I could see why CF hoods and other parts are pricy because of the skill set and labor behind it. Good job dude! 👍🏽 keep up the good work you do. 😎
Pricy but doesn't bend in the long run when collision happens.
@@luciusirving5926 Sure. It just cracks and shatters in much the same way as fiberglass or FRP.
In this video we're using a 200g 2/2 twill 3k carbon fibre for the visible layers. We use a Lantor Soric SF2 core material on the top skin and for the inner skin we use the 2/2 twill 200g fibre again backed-up with a 650g 12k carbon. When you're laying reinforcement into the mould dry it should be quite easy to keep the weave nicely aligned. It normally gets distorted in a wet-lay process when you're pushing it around with a brush or roller. You don't have that problem with resin infusion.
Someone tag B is for build in this video
I recently started working in composites after working with metallics the majority of my career and these videos are invaluable. I just wish I had a big enough garage to do this at home. Thanks
Thanks very much, it's great to hear we're helping people.
Hello i know it has been 7 months but i just want to say
Now I know where to buy my materials for boat building. ...
perfect
loved the video and thanks for posting. good coverage of detail shots too. also, because I sometimes channel an ancestral spelling nazi, I gotta cringe when i see professional marketing that overlooks misspelled words. (on your marketing board behind you, under "buying made easy" the word competitive is misspelled.) makes your marketing team look sophomoric. seems a small complaint in light of the artistry in the molding work, but... devil in the details, i guess. thanks again for posting.
При ремонте лицевого покрытия из гелькоута, используют топкоут .
please do some difficult parts like front bumper.. thanks
So anyone can learn to make their own carbon fiber parts?? Beats buying seibon’s bullshit CF parts😂😂
That about sums it up! So long as you have the information in this video then every step is perfectly achievable and should work just like it does in the video, there are just a LOT of steps to make a top class carbon fibre bonnet/hood like this but it's an amazing project to undertake and the finished product would be better than almost any carbon fibre bonnet/hood on the market (bulk manufacturers cut LOTS of corners).
how much would it cost to produce a pair of moulds to create a pair of carbon fiber front wings for a car? something I'm interested in doing. or a cnc mould?
@@ilikefishing7858 The mould cost can vary greatly depending upon size, shape and materials/process used to make the moulds from.
@@easycompositestv best suggestion?
@@ilikefishing7858 Depends on size of the wings, moulding materials used eg a traditional composite mould may only be a few hundred pounds, CNC billet tooling could be thousands
In total we used about 20kgs of the Uni-Mould resin, 7kgs of chopped strand mat, 5kgs of the coupling coat and 5kgs of the tooling gelcoat however this is a small part (a FIAT 500) and a larger part would require more resins and glass. Remember that we made an inside mould and an outside mould.
man is this hard work . awesome instructional video!
You won't have to wait long, they're all uploading to RUclips right now... Part 2 is already online!
Fascinating film, but I was totally confused when I saw him laying fibreglass sheets on the part until realised that they were only building the mold :-) Well, off to part 2 then...
what carbon cloth you use as material pattern not losses. as we use simple 20gr and very hard to lay perfect.
The four videos you have on your channel are BY FAR the most intelligent, concise and in-depth I've found on youtube for how to work with carbon fiber. Thank you very much for all the effort you put into this series.
Wow, 10 year's ago we did not have blue tape?? Great vlog 👍
"the most ambitious we are ever likely to take on" - After watching your recent videos! lol not likely... You guys are awesome!
Yes, looking back on our humble beginnings (check out the CarbonMods channel for our very earliest videos), we've come a long way. We're trying to get the balance though so expect some more home builder/DIY videos alongside the more complex ones moving forwards, especially as technology and equipment change and become more accessible :)
@@easycompositestv I genuinely can't wait I've got a couple of ideas I'd love to try.
How much would all the parts used here (excluding the steel hood) cost?
i guess a lot.... I am going to make a glass fiber bonnet, but in a much more simple way.... i hope it is going to work....
Daniel Solce use ur own steel hood
+altheeb - 100% Agreed! Time, $$$, Labor = NOT WORTH IT !!! LOL
A roll of CF sheet can cost ovee 16k dollars
you can get 3k carbon twill weave for $16 a linear yard. you could make the hood with about 6 yards. not that bad...
Nice , my old work...i work long time ago with production yachts , spoilers for cars , sand box for winter time..🇵🇱🏴👍
You're very unlikely to get bubbles in your gelcoat; I can't think I've ever seen this. In this video we spray the gelcoat; if done right that can put it down very smoothly and bubble free. The time you wait before infusing the resin through would depend on the gelcoat you're using (remember, you can use NO gelcoat and it will work just fine). For the GC50 we used in this video the correct delay would be between 3 and 24hrs.
@LoCoM4 we've got plenty more videos on the way. We'd love to do more (and quicker) but they take a long time and we're incredibly busy as a l
Isn't this more like fiber glass though?
Some of the basic techniques such as mouldmaking are very similar to what you would use in "traditional" fibreglassing. However, resin infusion is not such a traditional technique. It could be used quite successfully with woven fibreglass as well as carbon fibres.
Yes fiber glass moles to build a carbon part in to get the shape. Epoxy resins are so easy to use with glass and carbon.
Hello,
why do you aply coupling coat and not just resin, what are the advantages? If i Want to make the hood from fiberglass and not carbon fiber, should i do it without the coupling Coat?
This is the mould making video, not the actual hood making part - in the case of the mould material we used is a Vinylester Tooling Gelcoat and so to ensure a good bon between the gelcoat and reinforcement and to avoid air pockets, we use the coupling coat (which is also vinylester) with a light weight glass fibre followed by the heavier weight fibreglass which is applied with the Polyester Tooling Gelcoat. If you're making a hood using Polyester gelcoats and resins, you shouldn't need a coupling coat but we'd still recommend a lighter-weight glass for the first layer behind the gelcoat.
Excellent video, kept being drawn away by your sign maker's misspelling of "Highly competAtive pricing." I guess he's trying to make you stand out from your "competation".
My friend all ready subscribe how to apply
Only job were the sound of something cracking is good.
What about producing crack
How to make carbon fibre car body please make a video sir
why polish the wax if the purpose is just a release barrier?
Why polish the wax on the part or polish the wax on the barriers? - We polish the wax on the part to improve the release (shiny surfaces release better than less shiny ones) and also because the quality of the finish of the wax will be the quality of the finish on the part. If the wax isn't shiny then the surface of our part won't be shiny.
Easy Composites Ltd
I'm a specialized technician in the transformation of composite materials and i' m looking for a job , please if you have any information to help me contact me ; oufkir.ahmed40@gmail.com
And if you don’t remove all the wax it can stick to it
James B no, it'll just leave streaks or haze in the mold. The resin can't stick to the wax.
Carbon fibre is not a suitable material for a novice (or pretty much anyone else) to make a rollcage with. I don't often say this but my advice would be to stay well away from that project.
19:31 lovely
19:31
@PatruDragos I'm not sure I understand the question, if you want to make a fibreglass copy of your bumper then you will need to make a mould first (like we do in this video) and then you can make your fibreglass bumper using traditional fibreglass materials. Lots of curves should not really make much difference.
Thank you so much for creating this video series. I've always wanted to see a simple straight forward explanation of how this process is done. This has really got me excited to try this myself someday.
3;16/9:48 & comment 966 showing.
i like the English accent,might help with my IELTS exam :) but i agree great workmanship !thumbs up
Harry pother
insane how an 8 (going on 9) year old video series can make me better than newer videos. Videos like this make me happy that i don't have to go to college.
For real.
I'm still looking for something to put over the bonnet to protect the paint before fiber glassing. It's a good bonnet so I don't want to mark the paint.
A good quality vinyl wrap should work well however, we'd always recommend a quick sample trial of the vinyl first to ensure yourself that there are no issues between it and the gelcoat - as long as it works in the trial, you know you're good to use it to make your mould.
Do u guys ship to the US?
You can laminate a basalt woven material in the same way. There is no performance advantage and the ECO credentials promoted with basalt are dubius at best.
@ 19:30
***** lol
i forgot about this
lol
may i ask you about the material you mix with gel-coat to stop being tacky ? do you have it ? what is the item number.
Regards.
The Wax Additive used is Solution MW and you can find it here: www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/resin-gel-silicone-adhesive/polyester-and-vinylester/solution-mw-wax-gelcoat-additive.html
Looks like a new shape fiat 500 bonnet, probably wrong though
***** Yes you are correct!
+Easy Composites Ltd what are you poring in with the gelcot and the other 2
@danthman123 if you're only making one and you need to make the moulds and buy all of the equipment (I.e. starting from scratch) then it will work out more expensive, not cheaper. The materials alone used in making this bonnet are around £450 and remember that's for a 100% carbon bonnet so once you have the equipment and moulds it will work out cheaper.
Very informative and well presented.
@sosa921000 if you GOP on the Easy Composites website and watch this same video from inside our Learning Centre then you'll see a list of all the materials and pieces of equipment listed down the side of the video - I think you'll find this very handy.
Very interesting, though I'd personally use vacuum forging to get the shape and would only make one mould, while creating my own structural reinforcement for the other side instead of using the stock one.
DjKinetec great if you're using it once but this is deffo the way to go to ensure the structure of both your bonnets and the mould for further use.
@LoCoM4 ...company. We are doing a video where we will show making a carbon fibre air box. It won't make much difference what car it's for because the technique would be the same. Keep an eye on this channel for more vids. In the meantime, get in touch through our website if you need anything.
Who makes cf fenders for a b6 audi
where are u from ?
Obviously these guys!! Haha
A fucking badass. That's who.
"Who makes a Lamborghini out of a tractor? ... oh wait."
Me
Doing gun metal chrome oem grills, would I need to Sand or just lay the resin? I am trying to skin these pieces
The surface always needs a good key with sandpaper to ensure the basecoat resin can get a good grip to the surface.
The series is over an hour long already so it wouldn't really be realistic to cover every single aspect in any more detail but I honestly don't think there is much missing. We have a video dedicated to resin infusion and through Carbon Mods (our other brand) videos dedicated to mould making, wet lay laminating and other topics. If you watch everything we have to offer then there should not be much knowledge missing. If you don't have a hood to copy then you'll need to make a 'pattern' first.
What chemicals are used for the pre-coating for making molds? the black one?
The black resin is our Uni-Mould Tooling Gelcoat; you’ll find a list of all the products used on the project page on our website, the link is in the description 👍.
@@easycompositestv ok tanks
I wouldn't recommend spraying the resin during the tooling phase because it's very thick and would not spray well, by the time you've set up all the gear (and purchased it!) and then cleaned it all down after it would have been quicker and cheaper to just brush it on. The resin would still need to be stippled into the chopped strand mat and rollered after too anyway. If you're making something huge (like a boat hull) then spraying might be worth considering.
@sf200425997 yes, we spotted that straight away and it is annoying, still, this is a video about advanced composites, if there were any mistakes in the advanced processes or knowledge that we share for free then that would disturb me a lot more. Enjoy the vids, we'll get a new backdrop soon I'm sure.
If you use a gelcoat during the manufacturing process then you would not need to lacquer or clearcoat after. If you don't use a gelcoat then the part will look fantastic but it won't have much protection from UV/grit/dirt and so for everyday use we would then suggest a clearcoat/lacquer. For race use (where weight is more critical than appearance) then you would use neither a gelcoat or a clearcoat and you would just run with the bare carbon.
The mould making process would be almost exactly the same. If you're going to use polyester resin to make the fibreglass bonnet (which would be the usual practice) then it wouldn't be essential to use the Uni-Mould system, you could just use polyester gelcoat and polyester resin but you'd need to really take your time, putting down the reinforcement for the mould over a period of several days to reduce how much the polyester distorts. Or, just use Uni-Mould like we do here and finish in a day!
The mould is made from fibreglass using our Uni-Mould system.
Thanh Tran, it depends how much you want to pay for someone else to make you a bonnet. If the design is not already moulded then you will get a shock at the moulding cost if you ask a business to make it for you. The advantage of DIY making a carbon part is your overheads are much smaller and your time is free.
Does cutting carbon fiber do damage to your lungs?
Yes It does. Although cured composite is not toxic in its own right, it does present a very real respirable hazard when in a dust form during cutting and sanding. As such we would recommend wearing a suitable mask, as well as using extraction where possible.
Very nice video, pls,have a video for skateboard carbon deck . Lot of thanks
We made a video for a resin infusion of a carbon fibre and flax skateboard deck already, if you wanted it carbon fibre only then the process would be the same but you could add in more carbon fibre and maybe consider alternative core materials. ruclips.net/video/s2aS1G6yp-4/видео.html
It all depends what resins and materials you use. Many of our international customers struggle to find products of the same quality in thier home countries so come to us.
Yes, that's what I was talking about. The original hood will certainly come out of the new mould no problem but because I ground off the latch and hinge-pins then the original steel part cannot be fitted back on the car (it was only £50 off eBay anyway!). If you want to keep the original in a condition where it can be put back on your car then you would have to work around any bolts or catches which is perfectly do-able but a little more awkward.
Generally, 'dry' carbon refers to prepreg carbon fibre (where the fibre has already had the resin impregnated into it when it's manufactured) and 'wet' carbon refers to more traditonal 'wet-lay' where wet resin is applied to the dry fibre (called laminating) when it's in the mould. Resin infusion is neither of these processes really so is better being called 'resin infused' rather than 'wet' or 'dry'. The 200g carbon is a 3k and the 650g is a 12k.
Thank you for sharing this knowledge. I do alot of concreting and shuttering, this is mostly the same principles. I fully understand. Thank you very much👍👍👍👍👍👍
Great, that's what we want to do. In times like these it's great that we can be involved in getting some great businesses off the ground. We supply lots of people who have done the same thing and are now making some great parts which is good news for the whole scene.
Γειά
This will not damage the paint correct? As long as all these steps are followed?
Hi, no this did not damage the paint as all the correct release agent processes were followed. It is worth running a small trial on painted components as styrene based gelcoats can have an adverse affect on certain paint types and freshly painted components.
Think I’d just buy the hood.
The cost price for the materials used to make this (inlcuding things like the vacuum bagging consumables) is around £450. Remember that this is making a top-spec pure carbon fibre hood; there arn't too many of them around (they're usually fibreglass with a single layer of carbon and use low cost, but low performance, polyester resin). Also, if you buy the materials in larger quantities then of course you'll find the cost coming down.
Muchas gracias 🤖▶️hanny bass🔊
Love from india
Perfect cause I’m doing this for an abarth
This was an early Fiat 500 bonnet so would indeed be a perfect example for your project.