Love that you did not edit anything out & make it look like everything went smoothly. Also the fact that with 10 years experience you still had issues and you shared that means a lot. It looks simple but it is always in the details and you shared those. Thanks mate. Rare to see that in all the many how to videos on anything. Kudos to you. Keep it up love the transparency.
Good video. I like the fact you messed up so people can see how a normal process goes. It’s not as easy as some videos make it look. Good job. I’m always looking for other people’s takes on how to get it done.
Ron Gravel I think he made to many mistakes for 10yrs of experience. Crappy flange, carbon powder for pigment🤨 I understand u wanna see mistakes, but he says he has the experience, it’s just the worst experience I’ve ever seen. It only teaches the rookie that this is all ok, it’s not Clean molds, clean parts. If u haven’t seen Easy Composites videos or Airtech videos u will or a novice will think this is ok 👌🏾, it isn’t, just sayin
If you are going to teach to make molds you have to learn to do it yourself. Remember, the kids trying this is going to spend money on their fails... -And why the hell do you use weave on the mold? -You even had problems on that easy , tiny part...
This is one of the greatest how to videos I have seen on RUclips. None of the usual garbage of stupid blaring music, horrible commentary, bad lighting, crappy camera work. Thank you sir! Excellent job!
Thank you, I think this was the first tutorial I didn't fast forward through, Your simple layman's term explanations made this one of my favorite videos, Easy Composites company does similar but fail to help us understand the principal reason each piece of material and steps value to the end result... In other words.. BRAVO!
Excellent info, I'm making some custom pieces for my car (rear seat delete cover) and I didn't wanna cheap out on wood and carpet, so I'm thinking of making some CF pieces myself for a cool project, and unique look.
Just happened upon your video when I searched how to make carbon fiber parts. Clicked on yours and another dude's videos. His had a long intro and crappy music, so I watched yours. Thanks for helping me to feed my own creative juices. Subbed.
Thank you! I am resto-modding a C3 Corvette and I want to make reproduction gauge bezels out of carbon fiber for the interior. This video is exactly what I needed as a tutorial so I will be trying these methods out when I start rebuilding my interior! Thanks again.
Patrick Mitchell I just had to add that the mistakes wouldn’t have happened if he would’ve used the proper materials from the beginning For instance: instead of foam board- styrene sheet, smooth is better, always care about your flange Carbon fiber for pigment- or how bout just black pigment, much cheaper than actual carbon graphite powder. The powder can be used for whatever but the true intention is a filler where carbon is truly needed For the mold woven fiber throughout- how about a couple of layers of woven, the rest chopped strand mat, it’s cheaper I just think it could’ve been a lil better
You're missing a coupling layer between the tooling coat and the first layer of glass laminate. I tend to wet out the tacky tooling coat with a mix of resin and cotton flocks (renders the resin also a thixotropic depending how much cotton you add), the resin still being quire runny so that is also a first wet layer for the next layer of glass. Then the steps that cause air bubbles can be filled by taking some of the coupling coat mixture and adding more cotton flocks and some micro ballons. This will make it into a putty that you can fillet into the edges to smooth out the curve of the surface. Since it's all still wet the first layer of glass (I tend to start with a thinner cloth 80-100 g/m2) will follow the contours perfectly and will allow for subsequent layers to conform as well.
@Ed Jack you can buy purpose made metal/alloy rollers of various shapes & sizes for fibre glass & carbon fibre however the issue with those are they do get cacked up with resin very quickly, a simple hard edge to lay & rub on the insides works better & can easily be cleaned up.
yea buddy...... to be honest i was impressed at first with the amount of equipment you had to use and i got to say i am going to give this a try! I wish i could give a detail examination the finished product. Great work and do more!
This was an Awesome HTDIY, I've been wanting to learn the how to process of making a Mold to a carbon fiber part. Your the man, thank you. I'm trying to find a trade school that has metal fabrication, fiber glass and carbon fiber in Florida but there are none here
Awesome! I tried doing lost foam methods when I was first starting out and never could get good results. I've seen others make great ones, though. I've made two fuselage molds for DLGs by hand now and while it's a lot of work, it's worth it once you've got a design you like. The quality of parts you can make is just so much better with a proper mold.
Great Video, don't worry about any of the issues you had as they are more informative and helpful compared to a perfect job. Only suggestion would be to get a better microphone and maybe show a few close ups during the job. Will definitely look out for more of your videos. Thank you
This part didn't have any connectors. Just a tab on one end and a screw hole on the other. But I've heard of people making their own clips and bonding them onto the back. I just haven't done it before.
"And this is how you want it to look" he says as he pours pitch black epoxy into cup with his pitch black t-shirt in the background. :-) (great guide nonetheless but that made me laugh)
nice walk through of the techniques, looks like it could be use to make model fuselages. Your other video on the dlg tail is really good too (inspired to give that a go at some point). Only suggestion is PLEASE use breathing protection when using coloidal silica... it gets airborne easily and is really bad for your lungs.
Yeah, I really ought to. I've never worried about it since I'm always mixing such small batches, but you're right. Exposure over time is probably what'll end up getting me if I'm not careful.
Yes, the vacuum bag would pull tight into those corners and so would also push the carbon under it tight into the corner. And it honestly is not much more complicated then doing it this way. You just need proper vacuum bags or tape and a pump. And use resin fitted for vacuum suction. The hard part of doing this is the prep stuff, which is the same as shown here. This is perfect for more flat parts with no hard details. But things with corners or complicated details are far easier with a vacuum pump. Also, you could use thinner fiber weave for the first layer as it is easier to bend into tight places. And it looks better in my opinion. After that just lay up the thicker stuff unto that.
dont do carbon fenders please... don't do any sufficient body parts unless your gonna do the entire car, rear quarters, roof and all... keep it to Bonnets, Lips and Mirrors. TRUST ME doing half the body parts Carbon and half the car parts Painted. It looks terrible
A great video with all of the necessary information provided, thanks! However, you could improve your content by using better camera angles that show the component that you are trying to make (Instead of yourself).
thanks for sharing. I'm watching videos about creating molds for RC aeroplanes parts and I yours adds some new important and useful details 16:46 ok you mentioned the problem of having a form with perpendicular surfaces that makes resine slip down... but is there any solution for it? thank you
Good vid, my opinion is that the flange should be clean as well, I believe it should be as clean as the part. If u ever decide to use bagging tape, or overhang of glass fibers it can lay minimal on the flange. When your laying bagging tape u want a smooth surface prep, u don’t want to have to work the tape into too many crevices or uneven pavement. For overhanging of glass fibers onto the flange, again u want that smooth as well for ease of release once cured. If it’s too ruff or patchy or uneven your going to gouge the flange which needs to stay smooth for the future possibility of vacuum bag, or again bagging tape, My opinion, everything needs to stay smooth&clean. Oh and it’s never a bad thing to make a big flange, at least 2-3 inches. If the flange isn’t large now you’ll have to worry about mixing the bagging tape too close to fiber&consumables, do it once you’ll never worry again!
Keep the videos coming! Well done on the tutorial..... VERY elaborate and thank you for actually explaining why you use the products that you use..... Im looking forward to more, especially when you mentioned the vacuum pump!
Thanks for the kind words. I'm looking forward to making more videos with the vacuum pump. I'm in the middle of a cross-country move, so for the next month or two I won't have a shop to make stuff in. Once I'm set up, though, I'd like to do a vacuum bagging tutorial.
Thank you man I know it’s 3 years old but this is so helpful subscribing forsure I have a few questions on what I’m going to need for a project I want to make first
You provided great technique, we appreciate your honest assessment of your mistakes. Your work area looks very nice, I hope that is not your kitchen. You should protect your counter tops from all of those chemicals and fiberglass!
Great video. Do you have a tip or how make mold of the backside of car trim parts? Those trim pieces have tiny plastic prongs so they can latch onto the car.
good video but that fiberglass and carbon cutting and sanding is a nightmare. people must understand that if you do it like its shown in video, your simple protection isnt sufficient. your kitchen is now full off small needles of fibers flying all around the place. ventilator, vacuum cleaner next to it, long sleeve and gloves and blowing everythind with air after work straight into ventilator is the only way how to reduce the dust contamination.
I certainly wouldn't recommend cutting and sanding composites in your kitchen! This was done in a shop, well away from anywhere food is prepared. The best solution is to have a dedicated dust booth with ventilation and air filtration, but keeping a vacuum close to the cut helps a lot to keep dust down. Another great way to handle dust is to just keep everything wet. I've even heard of manufacturers doing all their cutting and sanding under a set of misters like the ones you see in the produce aisle of the grocery store.
@@SasquatchComposites yeah I'd agree, also to note cutting carbon fibre with a Dremel without any vacuum will quickly kill the Dremel via the dust getting into the Dremel motor & bearings. also when removing the part from the mould you can remove it whilst in a warm water bath this makes it a lot easier & reduces chances of either the mould being damaged (as shown) or the part being damaged. the water basically cuts through the releasing agent & the two just separate. soaking the carbon part before trimming helps but makes the excess annoying as it sticks to literally everything in fine strands (noting make sure animals & children are nowhere near & ventilation is 100% required)
@sasquatch composites i've been looking into the possibility of using a diamond wetsaw made for tile cutting to make straight line cuts in flat sheets of CF - have you ever heard of anyone else doing that? am i paddling up a dead end creek? thanks!
The problems you described when making the mold is why I always use chopped strand mat when working with curved parts, it doesn't have problems with lying flat over curves, and why wouldn't you use a tooling gelcoat for the mold?
You've really put together an excellent instructional video on this process. Thank you very much. Do you think that starting your layup with a lighter cloth would help with the tight areas? I've been meaning to do a plug and a mold for a couple of micro edf projects for some time but I'm still working on getting my cnc mill, 3d printing and my 3d modeling up to spec before getting into the actual tooling. Thanks again!
Enjoyed the video, liked it and subscribed. Sorry to be a pain but would it be possible to get more close up footage of internal edges when you're doing both the mild and final part. Thanks very much
Good job! Really informative... I've never done any of this stuff... I just have some projects in mind for later... I thought this might be a good idea: Powder plaster clay for molds (just shape-n-bake) Carbon fiber clay sheets (just wrap-n-bake around the mold) Then drill out the inner powder plaster with a rotary brush. ;) Thought this might be alot more fun to do...
Great video thanks! Is it possible to make a mold out of chopped GF and resin? Won't it be structurally the same? If strength is not a huge factor (I don't think it is for a mold?). Is it not easier to spread chopped GF than put multiple layers of CF? Or maybe chopped GF is more expensive?
Cool vid, if you would have just stuck with +45/-45/+45/-45/+45s for the fiber glass for the the mold. You probly would have been able to wrap around the part without having to make that splice. Also instead of poking at the female radius of the fabric with the end of your wooden brush, wouldn’t have it been better to use a teflon stick to smooth the fabric into that radius? Also how’s the over all strength of the part vs using a vacuum pump?
Yes, sticking with all 45s would have been easier. However, my experience has been that if you don't include 0/90 plies then it will eventually warp. As for the strength, it's not the same as a vacuum bagged part would be. I'd expect about 1/2 to 2/3 the strength.
New nice good to learn the process, hope this is going to get us the teaching we are seeking. Very informative educational and step by step building up our confidence to attempt this on a piece ourselves. That ply angle difference lesson was very important to build a sturdy mold. Nice you share your mistakes, they occur even after a decade plus of knowledge and sharing the challenges you experience and why are good to actually teach the rest of us. Nice work good job. Thank you. Lance & Patrick.
Nice tutorial and very *down to earth* Obviously when filming a job like this you have to point everything your doing at the camera so we get to see it, having said that, it would make your life a lot easyer if you stabelized the workpiece on the table so you have both hands free to work the materials, ie, sticking wood to the mold ads weight and gives you something to grab hold of also a couple af blocks of (preferably) plastic to rest the workpiece on. just saying 🙂
How long did it take to get to the tacky state for you? I am doing a project for school similar to this, and I wanted to know, so that I could arrange a schedule in the lab.
It depends a lot on what resin you use and what the temperature is in the room. Most epoxies will tell you what their "pot life" is, which is about how long you have to work with it before it starts to get too thick to use at room temperature. The right level of tackiness for what I describe in the video is generally about twice the pot life, so 40 minutes for a resin with a pot life of 20 minutes. If the room is warmer then it'll be faster, and slower if the room is colder. Hope that helps!
I have a question, what if on the backside you have got tabs to keep the part in place in the bike itself? How do you attach the part now and is there a way to create new tabs,
Poly(vinyl alcohol) not Poly(vinyl Acrylate) and yes it does make a difference. The later is a glue that will not provide a release to the part. Use clay to fill in the gaps, the wax will dry and shrink.
Good clarification. As for the wax for filling gaps, I've used it several times now and as long as the gap is small it seems to work pretty well. Clay of course works great, but it can also be a little bit of a pain to clean up afterward.
I have worked with cab o sil and noticed he didnt have his mask mixing that powder in. Cab o sil is a really light powder that likes to lift and float around the air. Pour in slowly and mix slowly with no wind blowing around to help control the cab o sil from blowing around meanwhile it mixes with your adhesive.
I use chop strand for my first layer of glass when dealing with small tight curves and always use a bag, it virtually eliminates all air voids in the mold.
I wonder if it would be a good idea that after putting the fiberglass and the resin on and getting it nice and clean if you have ever used a vacuum sealer I don’t know how the resin would react with the bag you put it into but it would hold the lines better and would pull allot of bubbles out
good video thanks a few months ago i had a lengthy discussion about Carbon Fiber with a cousin of mine who is a Engineer by trade he warned me about the sharp edges of the fibers and told me how nasty they can be on our skin i have had a lot of fiberglassing experience because of my boating hobby and of course my Cousin knows that ironically for one of his Cpllege projects he and group of Engineers did do a Carbon Fiber project that was a man powered boat so he not only knows the technical side of it but has some hands on experience as well
so your mold is a wet layup of carbon fiber is that right? i've noticed a lot of people mention use of "tool gelcoat" instead and use of fiberglass instead for making molds you mentioned you have 10 years experience but this is an older video, which way do you recommend?
I just kept waiting for the vaccum squeezing . Wouldn't that have pushed the fabric into the crevices and the corners ? A really good to see the videographing of a painstaking effort. As usual, the best things will get few views whereas rubbish would have crossed a million views. Please keep up your effort.
Thanks for the kind words! You're absolutely correct about the vacuum. It would help tremendously with getting the fabric to stay in the corners. However, I wanted to show newcomers to composites that it can still be done without investing in expensive equipment like a vacuum pump. Cheers!
A “How-to” video well done without any music in the background! I am trying to make a copy of my existing factory lawnmower fiberglass hood that was highly damaged and I was wondering how I can make a mold to copy with a whole new fiberglass or carbon fiber hood. The hood that I have is a 70’s or 80’s model year John Deere hood! A video on this project would be gladly appreciated. Thanks 🙏
Best using a layer of tissue (or you may call it veil) continuous fibre mat, directly on the back of your tooling/gel coat, followed by 225gm csm before your woven layers. Very rare to get the gel coat separating and you can use one less layer of woven mat.
I just suffered through 30 seconds of a meaningless ad to give money to a complete stranger, this vid better be good Edit: I am glad I gave a random person money it was worth it :)
Subscribed thanks for the Video I want to do this to the entire body of a somewhat sand rail and needed this info BTW if I am just Altering and existing body could I do this without the mold kinda free forming it?
For that I would shape foam (2" thick insulation foam from Home Depot is great for this) with a hotwire bow and sanding blocks, cover it with plastic, and lay up over it. It's tough to get your surface perfectly smooth, though, so expect to have to do some sanding and filling after you lay it up.
Great video! Just one question- you waited for the first coat to get tacky before adding the first layer of fabric. Do you also wait for it to get tacky before you add the second layer or do you do that while it’s still wet? Also, what happens if you run out of time in your day before you get all the layers down? Is it OK to let one layer sit overnight and then add more layers starting the next day?
Nope, I only let the first coat of resin get tacky and the plies all go down one after the other with the same batch of epoxy. Letting the first coat get tacky isn't strictly necessary, either, but it helps keep the first layer of fabric in place so you don't get voids in the corners and it also helps with surface finish in the end.
I’ve tried making a mold two times using gel coat brushed on. Brushing on the joker wasn’t the problem the problem was the gelcoat got extremely hot to the point where it melted the board I was using as a flange. Do you think I was adding too much catalyst?
That'd be my guess. But I don't have much experience with -ester based gel coats, so I'm not sure. I've always liked epoxy better for making molds, and I have never had an issue with it getting too hot except in the cup where there's a large volume of it.
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Dude. Finally. A how to with no crappy music, just straight instruction and how-to. Well done. Subbed.
Not a single chipmunk/eurobeat in there. Agreed!
Ya it was thorough but skipped the obvious work, while including valuable details... And a haircut ? huh
Best how to ever. Period.
Daniel Harrison yeah for someone that doesn't know what they're doing
Daniel Harrison Really?🤔🤔🤔🤔
Love that you did not edit anything out & make it look like everything went smoothly. Also the fact that with 10 years experience you still had issues and you shared that means a lot. It looks simple but it is always in the details and you shared those. Thanks mate. Rare to see that in all the many how to videos on anything. Kudos to you. Keep it up love the transparency.
Honesty is the best policy. 👌
Good video. I like the fact you messed up so people can see how a normal process goes. It’s not as easy as some videos make it look. Good job. I’m always looking for other people’s takes on how to get it done.
Same you
Ron Gravel I think he made to many mistakes for 10yrs of experience. Crappy flange, carbon powder for pigment🤨
I understand u wanna see mistakes, but he says he has the experience, it’s just the worst experience I’ve ever seen. It only teaches the rookie that this is all ok, it’s not
Clean molds, clean parts.
If u haven’t seen Easy Composites videos or Airtech videos u will or a novice will think this is ok 👌🏾, it isn’t, just sayin
You are right but he did say it was a hard part to start with and no vac
If you are going to teach to make molds you have to learn to do it yourself. Remember, the kids trying this is going to spend money on their fails... -And why the hell do you use weave on the mold? -You even had problems on that easy , tiny part...
Nice instructional video. I liked the fact that you discussed some of the mistakes made during the process. Awesome job!
*looks at every body panel on car
How to make my miata a rolling death wish lol.
This!
You mean every part
I was wondering. What would you do for a rough surface? I noticed your piece was very smooth. Everything I want to work on is rough.
@@1120mrevo he mentions at the beginning that the resin will copy the texture
I like how you start in the kitchen, it reeks of accessibility.
This is one of the greatest how to videos I have seen on RUclips. None of the usual garbage of stupid blaring music, horrible commentary, bad lighting, crappy camera work. Thank you sir! Excellent job!
Thank you, I think this was the first tutorial I didn't fast forward through, Your simple layman's term explanations made this one of my favorite videos, Easy Composites company does similar but fail to help us understand the principal reason each piece of material and steps value to the end result... In other words.. BRAVO!
Excellent info, I'm making some custom pieces for my car (rear seat delete cover) and I didn't wanna cheap out on wood and carpet, so I'm thinking of making some CF pieces myself for a cool project, and unique look.
nice video. i would of liked more shots of the final product though. Never got to see what it looked like finished
Man, you opened my mind to a world i didn't even know. Thank you
Just happened upon your video when I searched how to make carbon fiber parts. Clicked on yours and another dude's videos. His had a long intro and crappy music, so I watched yours. Thanks for helping me to feed my own creative juices. Subbed.
I’m a nurse but I love learning. Always loved the carbon fiber design very masculine but any who, super cool detailing!
Thank you! I am resto-modding a C3 Corvette and I want to make reproduction gauge bezels out of carbon fiber for the interior. This video is exactly what I needed as a tutorial so I will be trying these methods out when I start rebuilding my interior! Thanks again.
How did it go?
@@lsedanolg I ended up going with metal 🤷🏻♂️
I appreciate you not editing your mess ups to make it look like it doesn't ever happen. Subscribe and now everything i own is carbon fiber😋
Patrick Mitchell I just had to add that the mistakes wouldn’t have happened if he would’ve used the proper materials from the beginning
For instance: instead of foam board- styrene sheet, smooth is better, always care about your flange
Carbon fiber for pigment- or how bout just black pigment, much cheaper than actual carbon graphite powder. The powder can be used for whatever but the true intention is a filler where carbon is truly needed
For the mold woven fiber throughout- how about a couple of layers of woven, the rest chopped strand mat, it’s cheaper
I just think it could’ve been a lil better
He chose a good piece for this. Really complex, not just a plain board
Nice video, would love to see you wearing a mask and informing about the dangers of silica
i love your video and how you talk so humble and sincerety and so down to earth
You're missing a coupling layer between the tooling coat and the first layer of glass laminate. I tend to wet out the tacky tooling coat with a mix of resin and cotton flocks (renders the resin also a thixotropic depending how much cotton you add), the resin still being quire runny so that is also a first wet layer for the next layer of glass. Then the steps that cause air bubbles can be filled by taking some of the coupling coat mixture and adding more cotton flocks and some micro ballons. This will make it into a putty that you can fillet into the edges to smooth out the curve of the surface. Since it's all still wet the first layer of glass (I tend to start with a thinner cloth 80-100 g/m2) will follow the contours perfectly and will allow for subsequent layers to conform as well.
Man, you have such a Bob Ross Style.. thank you for the Video!
A roller for installing screens in a window works very well for the sharp edges to get clean tight lines
@Ed Jack you can buy purpose made metal/alloy rollers of various shapes & sizes for fibre glass & carbon fibre however the issue with those are they do get cacked up with resin very quickly, a simple hard edge to lay & rub on the insides works better & can easily be cleaned up.
Great video man🤙🏻just a white t-shirt would've been a great idea 😉
Always use tooling jell coat ! Also use a fiberglass roller to get the bubble's out !
keep reading the sale brochures!! millions of jobs done with brush ans many done with just hands! rollers are for big jobs!
yea buddy...... to be honest i was impressed at first with the amount of equipment you had to use and i got to say i am going to give this a try! I wish i could give a detail examination the finished product. Great work and do more!
This was an Awesome HTDIY, I've been wanting to learn the how to process of making a Mold to a carbon fiber part. Your the man, thank you. I'm trying to find a trade school that has metal fabrication, fiber glass and carbon fiber in Florida but there are none here
Great video. I am currently doing a lost foam version of a fuselage but want to move to mold making in the future.
Awesome! I tried doing lost foam methods when I was first starting out and never could get good results. I've seen others make great ones, though. I've made two fuselage molds for DLGs by hand now and while it's a lot of work, it's worth it once you've got a design you like. The quality of parts you can make is just so much better with a proper mold.
Great Video, don't worry about any of the issues you had as they are more informative and helpful compared to a perfect job.
Only suggestion would be to get a better microphone and maybe show a few close ups during the job. Will definitely look out for more of your videos. Thank you
this is the way all video tutorials should be
You can also use a paint roll to get out the air from the fiber instead of your finger or the brush ,works better just saying 😁
That's cool and all but what about the features on the back of the part that allow you to connect to what the original part connected to?
This part didn't have any connectors. Just a tab on one end and a screw hole on the other. But I've heard of people making their own clips and bonding them onto the back. I just haven't done it before.
"And this is how you want it to look" he says as he pours pitch black epoxy into cup with his pitch black t-shirt in the background. :-) (great guide nonetheless but that made me laugh)
😂🤣😂
nice walk through of the techniques, looks like it could be use to make model fuselages. Your other video on the dlg tail is really good too (inspired to give that a go at some point). Only suggestion is PLEASE use breathing protection when using coloidal silica... it gets airborne easily and is really bad for your lungs.
Yeah, I really ought to. I've never worried about it since I'm always mixing such small batches, but you're right. Exposure over time is probably what'll end up getting me if I'm not careful.
What I learned: vacuum bagging is essential for a quality finish. Vacuum bag the mold too.
that not as easy asmany make it look!! but if you can i feel best also
Would using the Vacuum method help with the lifting and rounded corners in general? Great video. Do fenders and side skirts plz
Yes, the vacuum bag would pull tight into those corners and so would also push the carbon under it tight into the corner.
And it honestly is not much more complicated then doing it this way. You just need proper vacuum bags or tape and a pump. And use resin fitted for vacuum suction.
The hard part of doing this is the prep stuff, which is the same as shown here.
This is perfect for more flat parts with no hard details. But things with corners or complicated details are far easier with a vacuum pump.
Also, you could use thinner fiber weave for the first layer as it is easier to bend into tight places. And it looks better in my opinion. After that just lay up the thicker stuff unto that.
dont do carbon fenders please... don't do any sufficient body parts unless your gonna do the entire car, rear quarters, roof and all... keep it to Bonnets, Lips and Mirrors. TRUST ME doing half the body parts Carbon and half the car parts Painted. It looks terrible
great video. i actually learned something. no weirdness, just a great how to.
A great video with all of the necessary information provided, thanks!
However, you could improve your content by using better camera angles that show the component that you are trying to make (Instead of yourself).
Great vid. Best how to diy on the tube. Clear and concise. Thanks for making this. You really shared alot of knowledge
Chopped Strand Mat will handle those contours better. Thanks for the video!
Great video! So how many pulls can you do off of a mold made like this? I love the fact that you don't have to use gel coat
thanks for sharing. I'm watching videos about creating molds for RC aeroplanes parts and I yours adds some new important and useful details 16:46 ok you mentioned the problem of having a form with perpendicular surfaces that makes resine slip down... but is there any solution for it? thank you
Good vid, my opinion is that the flange should be clean as well, I believe it should be as clean as the part. If u ever decide to use bagging tape, or overhang of glass fibers it can lay minimal on the flange. When your laying bagging tape u want a smooth surface prep, u don’t want to have to work the tape into too many crevices or uneven pavement.
For overhanging of glass fibers onto the flange, again u want that smooth as well for ease of release once cured. If it’s too ruff or patchy or uneven your going to gouge the flange which needs to stay smooth for the future possibility of vacuum bag, or again bagging tape,
My opinion, everything needs to stay smooth&clean.
Oh and it’s never a bad thing to make a big flange, at least 2-3 inches. If the flange isn’t large now you’ll have to worry about mixing the bagging tape too close to fiber&consumables, do it once you’ll never worry again!
Cool vid. Learned alot. Have you made anything longer than 90inches?
Keep the videos coming! Well done on the tutorial..... VERY elaborate and thank you for actually explaining why you use the products that you use..... Im looking forward to more, especially when you mentioned the vacuum pump!
Thanks for the kind words. I'm looking forward to making more videos with the vacuum pump. I'm in the middle of a cross-country move, so for the next month or two I won't have a shop to make stuff in. Once I'm set up, though, I'd like to do a vacuum bagging tutorial.
no joke this looks like a trap house for carbon fiber manufacturing lol
LOOK AT THE FLICK OF THE WRIST!
sometimes the best results come from the most unlikely of places
@@danhammond9967 works on two levels
This made.mme lose my shit
He's right. Like this is our best comment boys.
This is awesome stuff.......I have zero composite experience but would a heavy duty plastic bag and a vacuum help keep the plies from lifting?
Thank you man I know it’s 3 years old but this is so helpful subscribing forsure I have a few questions on what I’m going to need for a project I want to make first
You provided great technique, we appreciate your honest assessment of your mistakes. Your work area looks very nice, I hope that is not your kitchen. You should protect your counter tops from all of those chemicals and fiberglass!
Great video. Do you have a tip or how make mold of the backside of car trim parts? Those trim pieces have tiny plastic prongs so they can latch onto the car.
good video but that fiberglass and carbon cutting and sanding is a nightmare. people must understand that if you do it like its shown in video, your simple protection isnt sufficient. your kitchen is now full off small needles of fibers flying all around the place. ventilator, vacuum cleaner next to it, long sleeve and gloves and blowing everythind with air after work straight into ventilator is the only way how to reduce the dust contamination.
I certainly wouldn't recommend cutting and sanding composites in your kitchen! This was done in a shop, well away from anywhere food is prepared. The best solution is to have a dedicated dust booth with ventilation and air filtration, but keeping a vacuum close to the cut helps a lot to keep dust down. Another great way to handle dust is to just keep everything wet. I've even heard of manufacturers doing all their cutting and sanding under a set of misters like the ones you see in the produce aisle of the grocery store.
@@SasquatchComposites yeah I'd agree, also to note cutting carbon fibre with a Dremel without any vacuum will quickly kill the Dremel via the dust getting into the Dremel motor & bearings.
also when removing the part from the mould you can remove it whilst in a warm water bath this makes it a lot easier & reduces chances of either the mould being damaged (as shown) or the part being damaged. the water basically cuts through the releasing agent & the two just separate.
soaking the carbon part before trimming helps but makes the excess annoying as it sticks to literally everything in fine strands (noting make sure animals & children are nowhere near & ventilation is 100% required)
@sasquatch composites i've been looking into the possibility of using a diamond wetsaw made for tile cutting to make straight line cuts in flat sheets of CF - have you ever heard of anyone else doing that? am i paddling up a dead end creek? thanks!
As I read your comment my neighbor just put a delta ventilation system for sale in his drive way.
@pauly pisspants Yup! I've actually done this myself and it works great. I got really clean cuts with no dust.
Hi thank you for your video. Can you please share your ideas about how to take the mold of a horse saddle and remale it as carbonfiber?
The problems you described when making the mold is why I always use chopped strand mat when working with curved parts, it doesn't have problems with lying flat over curves, and why wouldn't you use a tooling gelcoat for the mold?
Hey do in u have any tutorial vids?
Really useful guide. Thinking of doing this for part of the center console in my car
You've really put together an excellent instructional video on this process. Thank you very much. Do you think that starting your layup with a lighter cloth would help with the tight areas? I've been meaning to do a plug and a mold for a couple of micro edf projects for some time but I'm still working on getting my cnc mill, 3d printing and my 3d modeling up to spec before getting into the actual tooling. Thanks again!
Yes, lighter cloth can conform to tight areas easier. Using a twill weave can help as well.
Enjoyed the video, liked it and subscribed.
Sorry to be a pain but would it be possible to get more close up footage of internal edges when you're doing both the mild and final part.
Thanks very much
Thanks man. I'll try to get better close up shots for future videos.
Very nice. Time consuming when done by hand. How long would this take in an industrial manufacturer?
THANKS finally one with out some music !
I would like to see how do make parts with a vacuum pump too, since I have one, and I really want to make show quality parts for my bike. Thanks!
Good job! Really informative...
I've never done any of this stuff... I just have some projects in mind for later... I thought this might be a good idea:
Powder plaster clay for molds (just shape-n-bake)
Carbon fiber clay sheets (just wrap-n-bake around the mold)
Then drill out the inner powder plaster with a rotary brush.
;)
Thought this might be alot more fun to do...
All done in the kitchen. Thats how i do! Great video!
Great video thanks! Is it possible to make a mold out of chopped GF and resin? Won't it be structurally the same? If strength is not a huge factor (I don't think it is for a mold?). Is it not easier to spread chopped GF than put multiple layers of CF? Or maybe chopped GF is more expensive?
Cool vid, if you would have just stuck with +45/-45/+45/-45/+45s for the fiber glass for the the mold. You probly would have been able to wrap around the part without having to make that splice. Also instead of poking at the female radius of the fabric with the end of your wooden brush, wouldn’t have it been better to use a teflon stick to smooth the fabric into that radius? Also how’s the over all strength of the part vs using a vacuum pump?
Yes, sticking with all 45s would have been easier. However, my experience has been that if you don't include 0/90 plies then it will eventually warp. As for the strength, it's not the same as a vacuum bagged part would be. I'd expect about 1/2 to 2/3 the strength.
wow this was,
easier than i though it was going to be (though mold making does take practice!)
no vacuum bag...or resin rollers?
New nice good to learn the process, hope this is going to get us the teaching we are seeking. Very informative educational and step by step building up our confidence to attempt this on a piece ourselves. That ply angle difference lesson was very important to build a sturdy mold.
Nice you share your mistakes, they occur even after a decade plus of knowledge and sharing the challenges you experience and why are good to actually teach the rest of us.
Nice work good job.
Thank you.
Lance & Patrick.
Nice tutorial and very *down to earth*
Obviously when filming a job like this you have to point everything your doing at the camera so we get to see it, having said that, it would make your life a lot easyer if you stabelized the workpiece on the table so you have both hands free to work the materials, ie, sticking wood to the mold ads weight and gives you something to grab hold of also a couple af blocks of (preferably) plastic to rest the workpiece on. just saying 🙂
Your part came out much better than some other vids. Glad I watched.
How long did it take to get to the tacky state for you? I am doing a project for school similar to this, and I wanted to know, so that I could arrange a schedule in the lab.
It depends a lot on what resin you use and what the temperature is in the room. Most epoxies will tell you what their "pot life" is, which is about how long you have to work with it before it starts to get too thick to use at room temperature. The right level of tackiness for what I describe in the video is generally about twice the pot life, so 40 minutes for a resin with a pot life of 20 minutes. If the room is warmer then it'll be faster, and slower if the room is colder. Hope that helps!
This was very informative and complete while still being quite concise! Thanks!
Thank you for not rushing
I have a question, what if on the backside you have got tabs to keep the part in place in the bike itself? How do you attach the part now and is there a way to create new tabs,
Poly(vinyl alcohol) not Poly(vinyl Acrylate) and yes it does make a difference. The later is a glue that will not provide a release to the part. Use clay to fill in the gaps, the wax will dry and shrink.
Good clarification. As for the wax for filling gaps, I've used it several times now and as long as the gap is small it seems to work pretty well. Clay of course works great, but it can also be a little bit of a pain to clean up afterward.
I have worked with cab o sil and noticed he didnt have his mask mixing that powder in. Cab o sil is a really light powder that likes to lift and float around the air. Pour in slowly and mix slowly with no wind blowing around to help control the cab o sil from blowing around meanwhile it mixes with your adhesive.
I will never use leather ever again, carbon is ❤️🔥 super lit
Is there anyway you could do a video on making a CF tube
I use chop strand for my first layer of glass when dealing with small tight curves and always use a bag, it virtually eliminates all air voids in the mold.
I wonder if it would be a good idea that after putting the fiberglass and the resin on and getting it nice and clean if you have ever used a vacuum sealer I don’t know how the resin would react with the bag you put it into but it would hold the lines better and would pull allot of bubbles out
Now realizing you discuss that later as I’m watching 😂
Great can you put a list of what I need to get please thanks
Would vacuum sealing the mold while you were layering the fiberglass face helped prevent the bubble?
Someone should tag Chris from B is for build
Any idea how to make micro things with pointy/sharp tips with carbon fiber, like a sewing needle?
good video thanks a few months ago i had a lengthy discussion about Carbon Fiber with a cousin of mine who is a Engineer by trade he warned me about the sharp edges of the fibers and told me how nasty they can be on our skin i have had a lot of fiberglassing experience because of my boating hobby and of course my Cousin knows that ironically for one of his Cpllege projects he and group of Engineers did do a Carbon Fiber project that was a man powered boat so he not only knows the technical side of it but has some hands on experience as well
so your mold is a wet layup of carbon fiber is that right?
i've noticed a lot of people mention use of "tool gelcoat" instead and use of fiberglass instead for making molds
you mentioned you have 10 years experience but this is an older video, which way do you recommend?
I just kept waiting for the vaccum squeezing . Wouldn't that have pushed the fabric into the crevices and the corners ?
A really good to see the videographing of a painstaking effort. As usual, the best things will get few views whereas rubbish would have crossed a million views. Please keep up your effort.
Thanks for the kind words! You're absolutely correct about the vacuum. It would help tremendously with getting the fabric to stay in the corners. However, I wanted to show newcomers to composites that it can still be done without investing in expensive equipment like a vacuum pump. Cheers!
Really good video. Very clear, informative and honest. Thanks!
I have found that you have to be carful with PVA and the mold release wax. The issue is that the pva works as a solvent and removes the wax!
No
A “How-to” video well done without any music in the background! I am trying to make a copy of my existing factory lawnmower fiberglass hood that was highly damaged and I was wondering how I can make a mold to copy with a whole new fiberglass or carbon fiber hood. The hood that I have is a 70’s or 80’s model year John Deere hood! A video on this project would be gladly appreciated. Thanks 🙏
Best using a layer of tissue (or you may call it veil) continuous fibre mat, directly on the back of your tooling/gel coat, followed by 225gm csm before your woven layers. Very rare to get the gel coat separating and you can use one less layer of woven mat.
I just suffered through 30 seconds of a meaningless ad to give money to a complete stranger, this vid better be good
Edit: I am glad I gave a random person money it was worth it :)
Awesome video. It actually explains what is going on lol and how to.
Subscribed thanks for the Video I want to do this to the entire body of a somewhat sand rail and needed this info BTW if I am just Altering and existing body could I do this without the mold kinda free forming it?
For that I would shape foam (2" thick insulation foam from Home Depot is great for this) with a hotwire bow and sanding blocks, cover it with plastic, and lay up over it. It's tough to get your surface perfectly smooth, though, so expect to have to do some sanding and filling after you lay it up.
Nice video. Well explained and edited. thank you
Would using a fiberglass cloth of a lighter weight (i.e. more flexible) for the first layer help in the tight corners? Seems like it would.
Great video! Just one question- you waited for the first coat to get tacky before adding the first layer of fabric. Do you also wait for it to get tacky before you add the second layer or do you do that while it’s still wet? Also, what happens if you run out of time in your day before you get all the layers down? Is it OK to let one layer sit overnight and then add more layers starting the next day?
Nope, I only let the first coat of resin get tacky and the plies all go down one after the other with the same batch of epoxy. Letting the first coat get tacky isn't strictly necessary, either, but it helps keep the first layer of fabric in place so you don't get voids in the corners and it also helps with surface finish in the end.
Vacuum bagging would solve a lot of the void problems. Envelope bagging would be perfect.
Do you think it would work well as an airplane skin?
I’ve tried making a mold two times using gel coat brushed on. Brushing on the joker wasn’t the problem the problem was the gelcoat got extremely hot to the point where it melted the board I was using as a flange. Do you think I was adding too much catalyst?
That'd be my guess. But I don't have much experience with -ester based gel coats, so I'm not sure. I've always liked epoxy better for making molds, and I have never had an issue with it getting too hot except in the cup where there's a large volume of it.
I don't understand how you did this without doing the vacuum infusion/bag or curing with the oven?
This is the old school way. It gets slightly worse finish results but works at home good if you don't have all the special tools...
would a vacuum bag have made the results better? is it possible to make vacuum on such complicated parts?
Fantastic. Thank you for taking the time and sharing your expertise. Very much appreciated!
You might want to try looking into consolidating between layers mate look into consolidation bags and there uses all the best 👍