Carbon fabric is woven with the threads at 0 and 90 degrees. Turning the entire sheet 90 degrees isn’t making the layers run an opposite direction. The threads are still at 0 and 90 degrees. You need to turn it 45 degrees or buy bi axial fabric woven at +/- 45 degrees to help with warp on large flat panels. Since this is just an overlay bonding to an oem hood frame, you’ll be fine. I just hear people say that all the time.
In my aerospace course they told us everytime to do that even though it’s not obvious but the treatment of the fibers can actually cause some warping. It’s not blatant in a ambiant temperature cure but if cure you can actually have severe warping depending on the manufacturer. So yeah, not necessarily but good practice.
Guys, I genuinely love your channel and videos.I have never made a carbon fibre part in my life, nor will I likely ever make one… But watching you is like watching a master of their trade… and X, You make awesome videos! I hope you guys absolutely blow up on RUclips soon.your content just brings me peace
@@ajhartmanaero not sure what situation your talking about, I’ve done all kinds in aerospace. I’ve tried using foam brushes, doesn’t work well for me. What’s it work good for u on?
If your talking about overlays I’m not sure how it works good when most of the time the foam absorbs the resin. When your doing an overlay you need the resin on thick n heavy
Hell's yea! One of the few channels I watch religiously. Couldn't count the times I've rewatched videos or whipped out my phone to a buddie and be all "dude, you gotta see this"! I think the turbo fan video I've probably watched a dozen times easily. 😅
Real talk: I have been contemplating on getting into CF because of YOU!! And, I have been thining about the logistics of what all I would need and how/where I would actually be able to practice this kind of thing. I really appreciate that you've put all this into a kit, I think this is brilliant. You make it easy and transparent the toolery that you use to make all of this stuff. Therefore, I will 100% be purchasing through you if//when I get into CF for real. Looking forward to it.
Awesome!! Hopefully you can find a space for projects like this- maybe a local shop would let you use some of their space temporarily? We appreciate your support and look forward to seeing what you make.
Been following you guys for awhile now. And am impressed with the quality of your work on every piece you've done. Especially since you're doing hand layup, and not vacuum infusion. Even though you need to add that extra layer of resin after the first cure, your end result doesn't look lesser than a well done vacuum infusion. Great job guys!
Do you ever use roller cutters? That’s all we would use at work for cutting the plys. It’s way faster when your doing it through out the day and making many cuts.
Appreciate the support! Please let us know if you have any questions about the kit, or if you're international and need a shipping quote: Sales@Industrygarage.com
YES! This was FANTASTIC! Excellent work, and I hope you make more tips and tricks for Carbon Fiber and body panels! You're THE Carbon Fiber/Kevlar guys in my sphere! Keep up these great and informative videos!
Such a great video! I used to work making carbon fiber prosthetic legs and arms for Hanger Clinic. I also own a Datsun 260z (2jz), four 1970 Honda Z600 kei cars (k swap awd) and an 81’ Audi Coupe like the one Ken Block just took to the Sema. I am planning on making carbon fiber parts for all my project cars. I love this channel!
@@StreetBandito thank you for the reply! I haven’t made any car parts. I am also an Aircraft mechanic and at school my composite (Prepreg Aviation grade) project was the only one that didn’t break during the stress test. I have been doing a lot of welding and fabrication lately and I am think about start making Carbon Fiber parts for those old Audis. I love the fact you guys are selling “kits”, I will buy one from you guys. I always always watch your videos without skipping anything. My IG has the same RUclips name.
The kits idea is perfect! I've been wanting to make some carbon parts for my race truck and this will make that much easier! Next time I bring it up to MD, I might need to bring it by.
I would love to made a carbon fiber hood for my car but I'm too lazy to made a mold for it lol, probably end up using this method if the size difference from the stock hood is negligible
That’s exactly why we made sure to show this method lol. It’s always easier to start out with the most accessible way and build from that. Just need folks to try it out 🙌🏽
This would work fine, but how many folks have a spray booth to get the final finish on. Think it looks soo cool and easy to do with the kit, but my gut says that the first few times you try doing it it is going to be crappy. Air bubbles etc tend to be hard to get rid of. Would be cool if one could use a vacuum bag and let the resin get infused in, but then again all of these techniques work well when you have the right parts, the space and patience cuz it wont get to be right the first time. I would start with a small part to make in carbon fiber before attempting a large one.
Hi! Actually, the large kit could possibly accommodate both fenders! I would only order one and measure. The only additional thing you may need to order (separate from the kit/directly from Fibreglast) would possibly be a small roll of carbon.
never saw how you addressed your rough edges around the edge of the part after cutting fibers and leaving rugh edges. were these cleaned up durrign final sanding of resin before you applied clear coat, if so did you just sand edges smooth with the same 80, 120, 180, 320 grit papers prior to clear coat?
Pva and wax helps you release the part from the mold. Gelcoat is basically epoxy resin with a dye, a base layer to everything. Gelcoat first, then all your cf cloth weaves and resin then a top coat or clear coat to finish. It's not always necessary tho because the resin will cure just as hard. Most of my peices I've done without it. It's more useful as a surface in a mold, or say if you are just laying a cf cosmetic layer on top of a light colored part (because you can sometimes see the color through some pin holes in the cloth) and a black gelcoat will make it harder to see any imperfections.
@@voongnz crazy how you helped me more than the guy on the video. Thanks man i appreciate. So if i understood, First pva and wax Secont gelcoat and so on?
@@BplexOnline no problem man. I guess he was just only mentioning what he did in his process. All good info tho. Yup wax and pva, then gelcoat/resin, or what this guy did and layed the cloth and soaked it in from the top. Different ways of doing it, just as long as you get good even coverage and it's all wetted out. Personally I'd put on my release agents then the base layer gelcoat/resin, then the cloth then resin on top again. And of course if you are doing a cosmetic carbon wrap, you'd leave out the release agents, sand/key in the surface and apply the gelcoat/resin to get a good bond. Good luck on your projects. And also wear a respirator with organic filters. The vapors from the exothermic reaction can easily kill your lung cells.
Finding great quality work on this niche market hasnt been easy! The pandemic has inspired me to take more risks and learn something new with making custom parts being one of them. Amazing content and quaility! Subscribed.
You've given me a lot more inspiration on how to take my hood hand-layup.. I was going to apply some epoxy, let it tack, add the fabric, vacuum bag it, then build layers up. However I think I can probably skip the vacuum bag by using the squeegee, then have the surface prepped ready to throw the fabric on and wet it out immediately rather than adding a base coat of epoxy first. One major question I'm stuck on though.. did you post cure your part? A lot of epoxy systems here in the UK won't achieve the full strength and heat resistance ratings until they have been post cured in an oven. I'm hoping my bodyshop can do that part for me..
I wanted to ask this in your Q&A but missed it, is there a different end result between wet laying and vacuum infusion, why buy the pump, separator, peel ply, bagging etc when you can just wet lay? Does using all the vacuum equipment give a better panel or finish? Thank You.
Vacuumed is an overall better finish and it weighs less because it only uses the resin it needs. Wet layup has extra resin so it weights a bit more. Plus vacuumed has no air bubbles.
@@justinwright54 Hi Justin, to vacuum you need a pump, catch can, clamps, hoses, peel ply etc, and you have to make a mould. The disadvantages of wet laying are the air bubbles which can be mitigated by heat and/or sanding and an increase in weight which must be negligible? The advantages seem to be a vast saving in expenditure and time as you do not have to make a mould. Wet laying seems the easier, cheaper quicker option and a no brainer, but I feel I am missing something? Thank You.
@@indigojewsnap7307 if your just building things for yourself then just do a wet layup and do a few extra coats of resin on your final layer so you have room to sand it flat. Yea the weight differences is neglectable.
No need to wait in between layers. Just make sure you try have an even distribution of resin and make sure your part doesn’t have any dry spots before your next layer.
what do you use to bond the carbon and frame togeather? i have just made my frame and hood for my 84 alfa romeo spider,( s2 glass), but cannot find a true answer on how to do this... lots of guesses really do not want the hood and the frame to debond on the highway.. could be a wee bit emberrassing... the frame is also s2 glass, thanks.. doing the boot next.. saving alot of weight this way
Lol that’ll take a lot of measuring per car and carbon fiber per build. He adds a new layer after getting as many bubbles as he can out. Always want that good distribution of resin.
Bond a skin? I do tons of carbon fiber work and if I was going to skin anything I wouldn't have put partial PVA down. You could have just put some good scratches in the hood and the carbon fiber would have bit onto it as good as possible
Hi! Yes, we can ship to the UK. Please email Sales@industrygarage.com with your full address and which kit you're interested in so that we can get you a full quote with shipping! Thanks
Nice.. Bought my CF and stuff.. Waiting for 'winter' to normalize in my shop.. one day it's 38 degree the next it's 59 degrees.. I have heaters.. but still a bit 'gun shy' cause of the cost.. just dont want to screw it up too badly.. I can get the shop to about 67 degrees if I hold the heaters on .. I have the 60 min stuff. Thanks for posting.. DMAX motion sim
You can spray acetone to get rid of air bubbles too if you don’t want to use heat. Epoxy will still bond if you add it within 3 days , no need to sand if your just trying to build layers up first
If you're going to paint the hood, why not mask off for one or two racing stripes that show the underlying carbon? Would probably look even more sick with a colored carbon/kevlar racing stripe (like a blue or red would look badass on an all black car)
@@StreetBandito Hell yeah. I also had an idea that I want to try at some point: naked carbon hood but with a strip of carbon/kevlar as a racing stripe inlaid into the show layer. Might be a touch heavier since I'd probably have to build up the epoxy top-coat to keep it all flat, but I bet it would look sick. I don't think I've ever seen anyone do something like that.
hi do you guys have a video on how to make a front fender? cause on the inside where the hood goes, the fiber does not stick properly and creates air spaces and does not let the hood sit good
This might be a stupid question but with the same process work if I wanted to make a fender For a car or a truck or would I have to make a mold of the fender
Do you ever have fit up issues when making parts without a mould? Because the inside of the part is now the same size as the original outside? If that makes sense
How much kit do you use for an entire carbon fiber hood... 1, 2, 3 kit? I maybe loose the information during the video or it's not mentioned (i'm canadian french... sometime i loose part)
Hi! Only one large carbon fiber DIY kit was used to make this hood. Also, we just recently began to accommodate international sales, so we can now ship to Canada!
I saw that in Japan they are starting to create floorboards that are carbon fiber but to go over the existing floor boards to add more rigidity. Any idea how they are doing that?
Thanks a very informative video! Do you think I could use your kit and technique to replicate/replace the steel hood portion of my Bronco, including molding in the drip rails all in one piece? Thank you.
Great video enjoyed watching just had a couple questions…. Firstly is the pva when sprayed body shop safe? Dont want any fisheyes lol and lastly the biggest thing I was hoping to see was the process and final result of the edge all around the hood did you cut the excess flush, is the edge completely flat or did you hand sand a round edge on it? Thanks
Look up easy composites on here they have a video tutorial on it then just do the last stage how you want they did resin infusion but you can do wet lay with or without vacuum.
It was for simplicity and budget for people first starting out. Our goal was to help show people the best thing to do when wanting to learn is to get out and just try them improve from there.
Carbon fabric is woven with the threads at 0 and 90 degrees. Turning the entire sheet 90 degrees isn’t making the layers run an opposite direction. The threads are still at 0 and 90 degrees. You need to turn it 45 degrees or buy bi axial fabric woven at +/- 45 degrees to help with warp on large flat panels. Since this is just an overlay bonding to an oem hood frame, you’ll be fine. I just hear people say that all the time.
Thanks for that tip! Always helpful hearing from the legend himself 🙌🏽🙌🏽
In my aerospace course they told us everytime to do that even though it’s not obvious but the treatment of the fibers can actually cause some warping.
It’s not blatant in a ambiant temperature cure but if cure you can actually have severe warping depending on the manufacturer. So yeah, not necessarily but good practice.
Twill actually has different directional properties, your statement would be true for plain weave, but not for twill.
@@godzuki2099 I assure you, you are wrong. The threads are still 0 and 90 degrees in twill or plain weave.
Guys, I genuinely love your channel and videos.I have never made a carbon fibre part in my life, nor will I likely ever make one… But watching you is like watching a master of their trade… and X, You make awesome videos! I hope you guys absolutely blow up on RUclips soon.your content just brings me peace
This comment made our day. Glad you enjoy the videos 🙏🏼
The super glue trick on the brushes is super clutch, I had all kinds of bristles in my first attempt at skinning an engine cover
Try a foam brush.
Try polyester brushes, better than foam
@@mlinecomposites1 not for every situation.
@@ajhartmanaero not sure what situation your talking about, I’ve done all kinds in aerospace. I’ve tried using foam brushes, doesn’t work well for me. What’s it work good for u on?
If your talking about overlays I’m not sure how it works good when most of the time the foam absorbs the resin. When your doing an overlay you need the resin on thick n heavy
Loving the content boys! Saw the notification earlier but wanted to wait till I could sit and actually watch it.
Glad to see the OG folk around still 🙏🏼
Hell's yea! One of the few channels I watch religiously. Couldn't count the times I've rewatched videos or whipped out my phone to a buddie and be all "dude, you gotta see this"! I think the turbo fan video I've probably watched a dozen times easily. 😅
You guys should host a part building course, like a pottery class!
I like this idea lol
Isn't this video an online class?
Real talk:
I have been contemplating on getting into CF because of YOU!! And, I have been thining about the logistics of what all I would need and how/where I would actually be able to practice this kind of thing. I really appreciate that you've put all this into a kit, I think this is brilliant. You make it easy and transparent the toolery that you use to make all of this stuff. Therefore, I will 100% be purchasing through you if//when I get into CF for real. Looking forward to it.
Awesome!! Hopefully you can find a space for projects like this- maybe a local shop would let you use some of their space temporarily? We appreciate your support and look forward to seeing what you make.
I wanna do a carbon sunroof delete for my gti would this kit work
Been following you guys for awhile now. And am impressed with the quality of your work on every piece you've done. Especially since you're doing hand layup, and not vacuum infusion. Even though you need to add that extra layer of resin after the first cure, your end result doesn't look lesser than a well done vacuum infusion. Great job guys!
Thank you for sticking around! We definitely made progress along the way but always learning as we go 🙏🏼
Man I should’ve waited. I just bought 90% of this kit from fibre glast last week. Awesome and informational video as always.
Do you ever use roller cutters? That’s all we would use at work for cutting the plys. It’s way faster when your doing it through out the day and making many cuts.
Guess I need to get back to my garage and try making another part
Never stop just start small lol.
I'm getting a kit 100% I've been doing vartom infusion for quite some time and this kit checks all the boxes and cheaper than getting from work
Appreciate the support! Please let us know if you have any questions about the kit, or if you're international and need a shipping quote: Sales@Industrygarage.com
YES! This was FANTASTIC! Excellent work, and I hope you make more tips and tricks for Carbon Fiber and body panels! You're THE Carbon Fiber/Kevlar guys in my sphere! Keep up these great and informative videos!
More tips and tricks will be shared. Especially along the way of our learning journey.
So knowledgable, so informative, so satisfying
Quality over quantity ain’t so bad
That’s refreshing to know. Always love getting good feedback. Especially when it’s genuine 🙏🏼
yall are some life savers with these tips :)
That hood turned out looking great guys
Such a great video! I used to work making carbon fiber prosthetic legs and arms for Hanger Clinic. I also own a Datsun 260z (2jz), four 1970 Honda Z600 kei cars (k swap awd) and an 81’ Audi Coupe like the one Ken Block just took to the Sema. I am planning on making carbon fiber parts for all my project cars. I love this channel!
Dude That’s awesome! Do you still make any other carbon fiber parts?
@@StreetBandito thank you for the reply! I haven’t made any car parts. I am also an Aircraft mechanic and at school my composite (Prepreg Aviation grade) project was the only one that didn’t break during the stress test. I have been doing a lot of welding and fabrication lately and I am think about start making Carbon Fiber parts for those old Audis. I love the fact you guys are selling “kits”, I will buy one from you guys. I always always watch your videos without skipping anything. My IG has the same RUclips name.
The kits idea is perfect! I've been wanting to make some carbon parts for my race truck and this will make that much easier! Next time I bring it up to MD, I might need to bring it by.
Please do swing by 🙏🏼
Been waiting for this video for a long time. Great work.👍🏻
Is the PVA also available in a rattle can spray paint.?
That’s a good question I havnt seen that yet
I would love to made a carbon fiber hood for my car but I'm too lazy to made a mold for it lol, probably end up using this method if the size difference from the stock hood is negligible
That’s exactly why we made sure to show this method lol. It’s always easier to start out with the most accessible way and build from that. Just need folks to try it out 🙌🏽
This would work fine, but how many folks have a spray booth to get the final finish on. Think it looks soo cool and easy to do with the kit, but my gut says that the first few times you try doing it it is going to be crappy. Air bubbles etc tend to be hard to get rid of. Would be cool if one could use a vacuum bag and let the resin get infused in, but then again all of these techniques work well when you have the right parts, the space and patience cuz it wont get to be right the first time. I would start with a small part to make in carbon fiber before attempting a large one.
The difference in size would be a couple or three mm.
Could I make 2 fenders on an s15 from one large kit ? Excellent channel
Probably not you’d probably need 2 kits
Hi! Actually, the large kit could possibly accommodate both fenders! I would only order one and measure. The only additional thing you may need to order (separate from the kit/directly from Fibreglast) would possibly be a small roll of carbon.
Bandito Boyz....stand uuuuupppp!!!!🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥😎🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
@Deathstroke Brother! You've been mentioned
What it do!!!!! Had to shout out the No hairs king himself lol.
@@StreetBandito hellyeah 😎 I'm sure he'll pop up soon
Digging that chilly edit. IMO good direction.
Ayeee glad you enjoyed. Was going for a relaxed type of vibe.
I want to skin the top of my hood in carbon but is it possible to make the folded seams like factory?
good question not without a lot of work
You're like the Bob Ross of carbon fiber. Very informative 👏🏾
Awesome tip on the superglue on the brush.
I picked out so many hairs when I made my carbon fiber Impreza based off of your Z videos lol
Lmao yea we had to learn the hard way like you too. Went through the struggles of hair pickings.
never saw how you addressed your rough edges around the edge of the part after cutting fibers and leaving rugh edges. were these cleaned up durrign final sanding of resin before you applied clear coat, if so did you just sand edges smooth with the same 80, 120, 180, 320 grit papers prior to clear coat?
Oh that must have been in the time lapse. Yes, you're correct - they were cleaned up during the final sanding
this could genuinely be ASMR
Lmao after rewatching this video I can definitely agree
Is gelcoat a release agent? Whats the difference between gelcoat, pva or wax?
Pva and wax helps you release the part from the mold. Gelcoat is basically epoxy resin with a dye, a base layer to everything. Gelcoat first, then all your cf cloth weaves and resin then a top coat or clear coat to finish.
It's not always necessary tho because the resin will cure just as hard. Most of my peices I've done without it. It's more useful as a surface in a mold, or say if you are just laying a cf cosmetic layer on top of a light colored part (because you can sometimes see the color through some pin holes in the cloth) and a black gelcoat will make it harder to see any imperfections.
@@voongnz crazy how you helped me more than the guy on the video. Thanks man i appreciate. So if i understood,
First pva and wax
Secont gelcoat and so on?
@@BplexOnline no problem man. I guess he was just only mentioning what he did in his process. All good info tho.
Yup wax and pva, then gelcoat/resin, or what this guy did and layed the cloth and soaked it in from the top. Different ways of doing it, just as long as you get good even coverage and it's all wetted out.
Personally I'd put on my release agents then the base layer gelcoat/resin, then the cloth then resin on top again.
And of course if you are doing a cosmetic carbon wrap, you'd leave out the release agents, sand/key in the surface and apply the gelcoat/resin to get a good bond.
Good luck on your projects. And also wear a respirator with organic filters. The vapors from the exothermic reaction can easily kill your lung cells.
Why not do a fiber glass mould first. Then carbon in that?
You can but for this application that’ll be one extra step. We just want to show people that making your own parts isn’t that intimidating.
Could you design a lip for the g35? Specifically the Kuruma Z front bumper.
Finding great quality work on this niche market hasnt been easy! The pandemic has inspired me to take more risks and learn something new with making custom parts being one of them. Amazing content and quaility! Subscribed.
You've given me a lot more inspiration on how to take my hood hand-layup.. I was going to apply some epoxy, let it tack, add the fabric, vacuum bag it, then build layers up. However I think I can probably skip the vacuum bag by using the squeegee, then have the surface prepped ready to throw the fabric on and wet it out immediately rather than adding a base coat of epoxy first. One major question I'm stuck on though.. did you post cure your part? A lot of epoxy systems here in the UK won't achieve the full strength and heat resistance ratings until they have been post cured in an oven. I'm hoping my bodyshop can do that part for me..
Matte boys! 🤙🏾
Can't wait for the next video of this series!!!
What is the benefit to putting the resin on with a plastic knife vs sucking it in a vacuum bag?
Looking into making some 2g dsm panels
Great filming as usual 👌🏼
Super cool ! Thanks! I always thought you needed to vacuum bag carbon fiber parts.
weigh the hood before and after
I wanted to ask this in your Q&A but missed it, is there a different end result between wet laying and vacuum infusion, why buy the pump, separator, peel ply, bagging etc when you can just wet lay? Does using all the vacuum equipment give a better panel or finish? Thank You.
Vacuumed is an overall better finish and it weighs less because it only uses the resin it needs. Wet layup has extra resin so it weights a bit more. Plus vacuumed has no air bubbles.
Correct the vacuum method will allow a better finish and it also helps to eliminate excess resin. It’ll just keep the amount that’s needed.
@@StreetBandito Why didn't you vacuum the hood? Too big to fit?
@@justinwright54 Hi Justin, to vacuum you need a pump, catch can, clamps, hoses, peel ply etc, and you have to make a mould. The disadvantages of wet laying are the air bubbles which can be mitigated by heat and/or sanding and an increase in weight which must be negligible? The advantages seem to be a vast saving in expenditure and time as you do not have to make a mould. Wet laying seems the easier, cheaper quicker option and a no brainer, but I feel I am missing something? Thank You.
@@indigojewsnap7307 if your just building things for yourself then just do a wet layup and do a few extra coats of resin on your final layer so you have room to sand it flat. Yea the weight differences is neglectable.
Any time between layers or just straight away?
No need to wait in between layers. Just make sure you try have an even distribution of resin and make sure your part doesn’t have any dry spots before your next layer.
the super glue can contaminate the epoxy just get a good brush and just clean it in acetone/ thinners and get multiple uses out of it,
what do you use to bond the carbon and frame togeather? i have just made my frame and hood for my 84 alfa romeo spider,( s2 glass), but cannot find a true answer on how to do this... lots of guesses really do not want the hood and the frame to debond on the highway.. could be a wee bit emberrassing... the frame is also s2 glass, thanks.. doing the boot next.. saving alot of weight this way
3M epoxy if you go to our description we have a link beside the “items we use tab” and in there it should be a link to Amazon on the exact one
@@StreetBandito thank you
i was quite shocked at the price $68.00 for 4 os... had no idea my car needed a ' fix '
9:54 So it is 3:1 volume ratio?
Killin it
How do you take care of the frayed rough edges, only part that im missing
How many layers to make a light race hood without factory inner structure? Maybe use foam for rigidity
Is there a kit for me to do my whole entire car?
Also how long to wait between each layer?
Thank you for this kit Tim!
Lol that’ll take a lot of measuring per car and carbon fiber per build. He adds a new layer after getting as many bubbles as he can out. Always want that good distribution of resin.
Is this the same process in making forged carbon fiber?
Bruh I’m just getting into fiberglass repair and RUclips gods recommends this. I’m deceased. 💀
The large kit did this hood with 10 extra feet left over?? Dang that's pretty good
Bond a skin? I do tons of carbon fiber work and if I was going to skin anything I wouldn't have put partial PVA down. You could have just put some good scratches in the hood and the carbon fiber would have bit onto it as good as possible
Great video, I think I'll try this on my S2000's bonnet too.
Do you ship the kits to the UK?
I’m not sure but I’ll ask
Hi! Yes, we can ship to the UK. Please email Sales@industrygarage.com with your full address and which kit you're interested in so that we can get you a full quote with shipping! Thanks
Nice.. Bought my CF and stuff.. Waiting for 'winter' to normalize in my shop.. one day it's 38 degree the next it's 59 degrees.. I have heaters.. but still a bit 'gun shy' cause of the cost.. just dont want to screw it up too badly.. I can get the shop to about 67 degrees if I hold the heaters on .. I have the 60 min stuff. Thanks for posting.. DMAX motion sim
You can spray acetone to get rid of air bubbles too if you don’t want to use heat. Epoxy will still bond if you add it within 3 days , no need to sand if your just trying to build layers up first
So is it important to have a a vacuum or wet style is okay to and do you do the inside or is it just the outside that is being made
Do you have to clear coat it after the last resin application?
Ghost paint the hood. Something transparent. But u can still see the weave. Like dye the clear coat.
always add a urethane topcoat after so the epoxy will not yellow
How would u make a carbon fiber skeleton if u didn't want to use your old oem hood
Im guessing You’d have to make a mold of whatever it is you’d like to make and figure out a way to brace everything for support.
If you're going to paint the hood, why not mask off for one or two racing stripes that show the underlying carbon? Would probably look even more sick with a colored carbon/kevlar racing stripe (like a blue or red would look badass on an all black car)
For the car this part going on not sure if it could pull that look off but will definitely keep this in mind for a future build 👌🏽👌🏽
@@StreetBandito Hell yeah. I also had an idea that I want to try at some point: naked carbon hood but with a strip of carbon/kevlar as a racing stripe inlaid into the show layer. Might be a touch heavier since I'd probably have to build up the epoxy top-coat to keep it all flat, but I bet it would look sick. I don't think I've ever seen anyone do something like that.
is this real carbon fiber? I saw a vid where a dude vaccumed sealed some stuff. Or is this just a different type of carbon?
This video is low-key the greatest asmr😭
aayyy X with the fresh af twist out
hi do you guys have a video on how to make a front fender? cause on the inside where the hood goes, the fiber does not stick properly and creates air spaces and does not let the hood sit good
If i wanted tomake a part that i cant lay flat like a truck bedside. Can i use super 77 spray to hold first layer up?
Badass. Would love to do this
Great video can’t wait for the next part
What a brilliant channel, lots of get information.. so I've subscribed 👍🏻
could a heat gun be used to bring the air bubbles up instead of a blow torch?
We now know who's buying that wrecked Chiron with the burned CF fender... lol Thanks for sharing!
Lmao I wish. If only our pockets were that deep. I heard it’s only deemed for parts. Insurance didn’t even want to give it a salvage title.
This might be a stupid question but with the same process work if I wanted to make a fender For a car or a truck or would I have to make a mold of the fender
08:31 Awesome tip on how not to loose any hairs of a brush, thanks for sharing :)
Or maybe don't use a $2 brush on a hood someone is paying 2000 for? The super glue isn't reaching the middle of the brush
How do you finish off the edges? Do you just sand it down and clear? Or do you cut/sand it into the final size/shape before the final layer of resin?
Is it possible to use a bag and vacuum ?
Any suggestions of what you could use the snippings to make? Can those strips even be used if you act fast enough on a 2nd project?
if i was making something like fender tubs, could i prep the original piece and use it as a mold?
Yes that could be possible
Do you ever have fit up issues when making parts without a mould? Because the inside of the part is now the same size as the original outside? If that makes sense
Are you able to lay the fabric on a fiberglass fender?
i want to make an order how many yards do you think is needed for a full car to convert to carbon fiber thanks.
Just ordered the small kit to get my feet wet on a smaller part before I try this. Thanks for the video!
How much kit do you use for an entire carbon fiber hood... 1, 2, 3 kit? I maybe loose the information during the video or it's not mentioned (i'm canadian french... sometime i loose part)
Hi! Only one large carbon fiber DIY kit was used to make this hood. Also, we just recently began to accommodate international sales, so we can now ship to Canada!
@@industrygaragedistribution5554 COOL!!!! 👍
So this is a wet carbon fiber part, not a dry vacuumed part. Like what is the difference between them
Could this same process be done with fiberglass for a much less expensive hood?
Lol need to get an update on baby girl soon out there soon.
Going to do a Street Bandito logo using rice paper in your finish at some point? Would have been cool in the finish of that hood.
I saw that in Japan they are starting to create floorboards that are carbon fiber but to go over the existing floor boards to add more rigidity. Any idea how they are doing that?
which kit are you using , the small one or a nother one?
Thanks a very informative video! Do you think I could use your kit and technique to replicate/replace the steel hood portion of my Bronco, including molding in the drip rails all in one piece? Thank you.
The shell is the original hood right or is that mold ?
Good work and informative video. Plus I always wondered if a gym sock came to life, what personality would it have. Now I don't have to wonder anymore
Me: Hell yea DIY for CF parts
Also me: Still aint doing it
Badass tho!
Lmao nah man we need you to make a part no matter how small it may be
I spray clear lacquer on it after I have it were I want it
Probably going to watch this about 10 times as I make parts.
Aye when you make that part we want to see so send in some photos and videos. Hosting a competition.
Great video enjoyed watching just had a couple questions…. Firstly is the pva when sprayed body shop safe? Dont want any fisheyes lol and lastly the biggest thing I was hoping to see was the process and final result of the edge all around the hood did you cut the excess flush, is the edge completely flat or did you hand sand a round edge on it? Thanks
Id wanna see how to make a complete hood, not just a skin 👍🏻
This original hood provides the structure so we are going to cut off the aluminum and replace it with the new part made.
Look up easy composites on here they have a video tutorial on it then just do the last stage how you want they did resin infusion but you can do wet lay with or without vacuum.
Q: I noticed that you didn't use the vacuum step. Why? Is the vacuum necessary??
Did I miss an explanation in the video?
Thank you
It was for simplicity and budget for people first starting out. Our goal was to help show people the best thing to do when wanting to learn is to get out and just try them improve from there.
@@StreetBandito thank you for the response.
It appears that a mold isn't necessary, basically can use the part as the mold.
Wouldn't it be easier to clean up with some ram board or carboard on ground? How in the world do you clean floor after it dries?
kit idea is genius. you'll make a killing.
Bob Ross of carbon fabrication !!