I like the idea of using carbon tow as just a surface layer on parts that don't need the strength of forged carbon. You get the look of forged carbon without the mold and workholding complexity, and also on a real carbon part.
(Forged carbon is less strong than regular twills, it is just beneficial in cost for production, and offers more compatibility for awkward shapes especially on smaller parts. It's also lighter for the same volume so it's good for non-structural or partially-structural parts that don't need the extreme properties of regular CF)
@@icehawk3442 forged carbon can be weaker or stronger than twill or weave, depending on use case and manufacturing. The randomly oriented strands are incredible for small, densely packed, complex shapes. Not so much for large, thin, or flat pieces, where the benefit of long, continuous fibers would be apparent. Forged carbon is made by throughly wetting the fibers, and curing under high pressures (some sort of mold and clamp system, usually. This squeezes excess resin out, and packs the fibers more tightly together. The purpose of resin is to transfer load from one fiber to the next. Therefore the less space between fibers, the less the strength of the resin comes into play, resulting in an overall stronger part. Tightly packed, randomly oriented fiber also significantly reduces the concern of delamination.
You're talking about two different things. First there's the wet laminate version, (where you...as you say, wet out the fibers then clamp molds together) then there's the real stuff (SMC and BMC) that's made in a multiple piece mold, and is a prepreg system that is pressed together in a heated platen press. Even SMC/BMC is *almost* as strong as woven fiber (both prepreg). However, SMC and BMC are being used in structural automotive applications now as well. @@g45h96
You sir are a wizard. My only critique would have been to leave the embossed M and stripes in place but maybe it would have made the process more difficult. Still, great work.
Beautiful. I'll be trying this method for the panels on my sled project. Love how you taped the tool and overlayed it with plastic instead of shoving the whole thing into a huge bag. thanks for sharing. 👍.
Not sure if you have had a chance to use one but the oscillating multi-tools from Dewalt etc. work wonders at cutting fiberglass and carbon fiber and kick up a ton less dust than the grinder and cutoff wheels. I have not done a forged carbon project yet, this makes me want to give it a shot.
First of all : it's amazing. I ve subscribed and watch a lot of video of this kind, because i'm drawing plans for a custom model. It has a lot of small-size parts, like the one in this video. Here is my question : What kind of syringe are you using ? Looks like some special-clothes bag vaccum. I was considering buying a electrical vaccum pump but your solutions seems to work very well. What negative pressure can you achieve with this syringe ? I can't see the figures on the gauge. Thank You and keep it up !
@@нэймюзер Ну да это точно . У него такой своеобразный юмор))) ,я всегда прикалываюсь с его видео . Молодец . Вообще у него там много приколов в роликах .
Oh wow, I've been taking CF for granted. What a journey 👏 So glad there are ppl like you out there but I'm gonna have to just cough up the money instead lol it's faster 😆
I would've recommended fi ish sanding with your palm, it's a malable surface. We use to wet and finish sand with our hands , that way it allows a more equal pressure.
I know that is great craftsmanship and certainly sharing this with us is a positive. It's just sometimes we do a project asking if we could without thinking if we should. If you were going for non-structural aesthetic upgrade, there was no need to specifically put the twill CF ply underneath the forged. If you had to put twill as you couldn't put the chopped tow under a compression mould, you didn't need to use the vacuum infusion / oven cure type of resin system and could have done with a simpler non-infusion type. Just needs an insulation layer under the cover (which many modern engine covers natively have actually, their role is to retain heat in cold months for better efficiency so the top layers of the cover would never get hot). If you didn't need to go for the twill underneath, you wouldn't have needed a fibreglass mould or oven and could have done it on a 3D-printed mould. A fibreglass mould is often good for making tens of copies of a part, which is nice if you're going to charge 9 of your buddies to make theirs but otherwise is not an optimal usage of your time or resources. If you had otherwise wanted strength from it, it would have been way easier to inbuild a bit of cross rib to the part design by digging lines into a negative mould on the other side and continuing to forge it with the shaped braces underneath. If you didn't know how to model a 2/3-part mould as complex as this, you could have used the original part that you destroyed anyway, and made that a mould. Part would offset and be slightly bigger, but since you'd made the mounting points yourself it wouldn't be noticeable or make a practical difference. None of this takes away how well it turned out and how much effort you put into it, it's just in design very often the first questions are 'do you really need it made to that spec' which is fundamental in functional pieces. I get that for such a large part compression moulding is difficult and driving it with a vacuum infusion twill backing is one of the cleverer workarounds, but surely chasing this aesthetic defies design logic for functional aspects? To those wanting to do it but finding it too hard, with some decent modeling knowledge and modeling time you could cut the resource spend ($ and time/expertise/equipment) more than half in manufacturing. In fact with a bit of modeling knowledge you could even design your own engine cover, all you need are the original bolt hole points. That is the positive inspiration I got from this video -- since even that would be cheaper and quicker than as shown.
TLDR: forged carbon was originally invented to help reduce the effort required to make a carbon part. Just make a mould covering both top and bottom faces, mix some fibre and resin, press it really hard with some C-clamps and you're done. This build unfortunately sacrificed all of that convenience and got the forged finish while effectively going through the huge pains of all the traditional composites process. It's impressive... but a wasted opportunity compared to how much easier it could have been.
How Would i go about making a Front Fender for a MX bike in "real" forged, Not like this ? I mean i would just need the 2 Mould Sides to press together right? It would be kinda Hard to get them right i Feel like cause there's no flat edge
So, why not keep "M Power" and other slightly raised details? The fiber shards will mold around them in the vacuum. I get why you smoothed the cover, but have you tried leaving logos or similar ID marks in place? What about adding colored "ember" bits (blue and red) to support the M tricolore?
Hi m8, thanks for sharing this, I love a DIY project, plus I own a BMW 430d, so might have a go at this. Question: can you not just coat the existing cover in carbon and leave it at that, instead of creating a mould, etc? Or will the carbon come away from the plastic over time? Thanks!
Can you show how you do it with the mold for hollow bodies with a hole, for example a balloon with a hole. i know a stupid example, but i'm facing such a challenge right now, and i have no plan how i should start there, or how i should accomplish it, it should also be in such a flaked carbon. Very great video!
Cover across the hole from the back side with some card covered in aluminum foil tape, wax and fillet that with non drying clay. Then just treat it like there is no hole.
Oh I started itching just by looking at him cutting the mold with a cutoff wheel. Used to spray laminate boats for a living one time in my life. Don’t miss that at all. Even ones breathing smelled like resin and gelcoat despite wearing a mask. That is not actually forged carbon, you would need two mold halves to press the carbon to get the desired composition. But anyway good looking part!
Hi, been following for a while. Great job! I want to start working with carbon fiber too. Is the curing/baking process in the oven 100% necessary? Can you just let it cure at the room temperature?
If the parts never ever see sun or high heat, room temperature cure around 20-25C is fine. But in most cases carbon sees the outside world. I've left parts outside in the sun and they reached like 65C on their own. You need to cure in an oven, otherwise once in the sun the parts will distort and the weave will show, a part that looks shinny and beautiful will become very ugly.
![DO NOT MAKE CARBON FIBER PARTS AT HOME (Making Charge Pipes) [DIY] with CR-Scan Lizard](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YNWu1-r5HGo/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to Simply Change your Car Parts to Real Carbon Fiber (Carbon fiber Skinning) [DIY]](/img/1.gif)
I'm waiting when you'll start to make carbon body panels like fenders, hood, doors :D
@Joe cure a corner at a time 😂
@Joe 15hours with heatgun? :V
Hell yeah
lol that would be cool!
This isn't carbon fiber to begin with so it'll probably be a long time.
I like the idea of using carbon tow as just a surface layer on parts that don't need the strength of forged carbon. You get the look of forged carbon without the mold and workholding complexity, and also on a real carbon part.
(Forged carbon is less strong than regular twills, it is just beneficial in cost for production, and offers more compatibility for awkward shapes especially on smaller parts. It's also lighter for the same volume so it's good for non-structural or partially-structural parts that don't need the extreme properties of regular CF)
@@icehawk3442 forged carbon can be weaker or stronger than twill or weave, depending on use case and manufacturing. The randomly oriented strands are incredible for small, densely packed, complex shapes. Not so much for large, thin, or flat pieces, where the benefit of long, continuous fibers would be apparent. Forged carbon is made by throughly wetting the fibers, and curing under high pressures (some sort of mold and clamp system, usually. This squeezes excess resin out, and packs the fibers more tightly together. The purpose of resin is to transfer load from one fiber to the next. Therefore the less space between fibers, the less the strength of the resin comes into play, resulting in an overall stronger part. Tightly packed, randomly oriented fiber also significantly reduces the concern of delamination.
You're talking about two different things. First there's the wet laminate version, (where you...as you say, wet out the fibers then clamp molds together) then there's the real stuff (SMC and BMC) that's made in a multiple piece mold, and is a prepreg system that is pressed together in a heated platen press. Even SMC/BMC is *almost* as strong as woven fiber (both prepreg). However, SMC and BMC are being used in structural automotive applications now as well. @@g45h96
Your demonstration method is more effective than most and your video editing techniques make your tutorials more interesting and enjoyable.
dont add stupid free music to these
@@techtrip8942 he could add slow background music like Carboncitizens they are made for automotive creaters to use for free
This video just confirmed I'll save my time and buy one.
I love watching it come to life when you spray the clear.
How many hours was the process from start to finish with this?
You sir are a wizard. My only critique would have been to leave the embossed M and stripes in place but maybe it would have made the process more difficult. Still, great work.
Naw its not really any harder all the same steps basically
Probably would have made demolding harder@@taylorjones5370
Beautiful. I'll be trying this method for the panels on my sled project. Love how you taped the tool and overlayed it with plastic instead of shoving the whole thing into a huge bag. thanks for sharing. 👍.
You should use transparent gelcoat as first layer, it will save you the process of giving one hand of epoxy at the end
진짜 열정과 노력, 재능까지...정말 멋져요!! 카본이 비싼데에는 다 이유가 있었군요!!
the most straight forward video I've come across
What is the weight difference??? Why not show how it looks on the engine compared to stock?
Not sure if you have had a chance to use one but the oscillating multi-tools from Dewalt etc. work wonders at cutting fiberglass and carbon fiber and kick up a ton less dust than the grinder and cutoff wheels.
I have not done a forged carbon project yet, this makes me want to give it a shot.
I dont think there is any difference in cutting normal Cabon Fiber or Forged Carbon.
Yeah agree, I use one of those tools and a water spray to keep dust down.
I've used this method a lot and still getting used to it... nice piece, would have been good to see it fitted on the actual car.
Very happy to see you post again. It’s been a while. Can’t wait for the next one!
Beautiful! I want to do a bunch of stuff in my upcoming build but idk that I have the time or patience to do it. Looks incredible!
I love the CAD construction part most. Clicking sound remembers me to my own construction in CAD - also could be Sound of playing Diablo 2
와 미쳤다 나도 대학다닐동안 혼자서 거푸집 만들려고 노력했는데 진짜 디테일이 미쳤다 난 저런 작업 방법은 생각도 못했어 미쳤다
이분영상보면 시행착오가 많아서 ㅋㅋ
the king has blessed us with more content, all hail the king!!!
Finally someone understood how to edit!!
Great skills overall tho.
Keep following what you love.
Thanks for this Vid!
Im in love with your channel
I love carbon fiber so much that i can make all what i have in carbon fiber e.g. all of my car parts that are removable
本当に凄い！ 素晴らしい技術とセンス！ 尊敬しかない。
Oh c'mon Mr! We need more of your masterpieces on video! More! 😀
First of all : it's amazing. I ve subscribed and watch a lot of video of this kind, because i'm drawing plans for a custom model. It has a lot of small-size parts, like the one in this video.
Here is my question : What kind of syringe are you using ? Looks like some special-clothes bag vaccum. I was considering buying a electrical vaccum pump but your solutions seems to work very well. What negative pressure can you achieve with this syringe ? I can't see the figures on the gauge.
Thank You and keep it up !
Ну наконец то ,я уже соскучился за видео роликами ! Как всегда в своем духе с юмором ))) ,приятно смотреть и поучительно 👋👍
Вроде и без слов, а улабнуть заставляет)))))
@@нэймюзер Ну да это точно . У него такой своеобразный юмор))) ,я всегда прикалываюсь с его видео . Молодец . Вообще у него там много приколов в роликах .
@@ОлегДёготь единственное не хватает салфеток анимешных))
@@artiomdavidov2138 Это точно ))
that's dedication dude. very impressive
beautiful and wholesome tutorial.
Amazing job. I see why real CF parts are so expensive....time and labor.
Love these videos, no words necessary
Brilliant job. Iv done lots of parts aswell. Like skinning and vacuum bag to this Lots of work but looks good
I did a coffee table too
When you did the table did you use a vacuum or just brush and roller? How'd it come up?
C’est un sacré boulot. Ça prend un temps fou et ça coûte cher en matos, non?
Tu vends combien une pièce comme celle là?
Amazing workmanship, I dip my hat to you sir
дуже крто! дивився на роботу американців то просто жесть)) ти чувак профі!
This is pure po0rn! So satisfying to watch!
Can't wait for you to make widener for your car!
Brilliant, how much work you need to do simple panel. Always it looks much easier than in real life. Thx
Oh wow, I've been taking CF for granted. What a journey 👏 So glad there are ppl like you out there but I'm gonna have to just cough up the money instead lol it's faster 😆
Wow, I would love to do this to my airbox and cover for my Mercedes-Benz.
Learning fusion360 comes in clutch when making cf parts for sure.
Fantastic work, as always, well done 👍
instead of 15 hours of 60 degrees celsius, can I have it made in shorter time or in 3 intervals of 5 hours?
О да мужик!! Я понимаю эту боль, когда не отходит жертвенная ткань. Настрадался я с ней. Теперь использую перфорированную пленку, отходит шикарно!!
great work, really enjoyed it :)
I would've recommended fi ish sanding with your palm, it's a malable surface. We use to wet and finish sand with our hands , that way it allows a more equal pressure.
오랫만에 올리셨네요~~👍👍👍👍👍
Bei dem Aufwand wird die Abdeckung teurer als das Auto ❕🇩🇪
I know that is great craftsmanship and certainly sharing this with us is a positive.
It's just sometimes we do a project asking if we could without thinking if we should.
If you were going for non-structural aesthetic upgrade, there was no need to specifically put the twill CF ply underneath the forged.
If you had to put twill as you couldn't put the chopped tow under a compression mould, you didn't need to use the vacuum infusion / oven cure type of resin system and could have done with a simpler non-infusion type. Just needs an insulation layer under the cover (which many modern engine covers natively have actually, their role is to retain heat in cold months for better efficiency so the top layers of the cover would never get hot).
If you didn't need to go for the twill underneath, you wouldn't have needed a fibreglass mould or oven and could have done it on a 3D-printed mould. A fibreglass mould is often good for making tens of copies of a part, which is nice if you're going to charge 9 of your buddies to make theirs but otherwise is not an optimal usage of your time or resources.
If you had otherwise wanted strength from it, it would have been way easier to inbuild a bit of cross rib to the part design by digging lines into a negative mould on the other side and continuing to forge it with the shaped braces underneath.
If you didn't know how to model a 2/3-part mould as complex as this, you could have used the original part that you destroyed anyway, and made that a mould. Part would offset and be slightly bigger, but since you'd made the mounting points yourself it wouldn't be noticeable or make a practical difference.
None of this takes away how well it turned out and how much effort you put into it, it's just in design very often the first questions are 'do you really need it made to that spec' which is fundamental in functional pieces. I get that for such a large part compression moulding is difficult and driving it with a vacuum infusion twill backing is one of the cleverer workarounds, but surely chasing this aesthetic defies design logic for functional aspects?
To those wanting to do it but finding it too hard, with some decent modeling knowledge and modeling time you could cut the resource spend ($ and time/expertise/equipment) more than half in manufacturing. In fact with a bit of modeling knowledge you could even design your own engine cover, all you need are the original bolt hole points. That is the positive inspiration I got from this video -- since even that would be cheaper and quicker than as shown.
TLDR: forged carbon was originally invented to help reduce the effort required to make a carbon part. Just make a mould covering both top and bottom faces, mix some fibre and resin, press it really hard with some C-clamps and you're done. This build unfortunately sacrificed all of that convenience and got the forged finish while effectively going through the huge pains of all the traditional composites process. It's impressive... but a wasted opportunity compared to how much easier it could have been.
How Would i go about making a Front Fender for a MX bike in "real" forged, Not like this ? I mean i would just need the 2 Mould Sides to press together right? It would be kinda Hard to get them right i Feel like cause there's no flat edge
Your video is great... thanks for sharing... but I do not ask how many hours you spent on this part....
thank you so much for not adding music or talking
No show off of the motor at the end?? ... So, looks gorgeous.. but does it fit?
Beautiful work
It's absolutely beautiful!
But is that worth it?
So, why not keep "M Power" and other slightly raised details? The fiber shards will mold around them in the vacuum. I get why you smoothed the cover, but have you tried leaving logos or similar ID marks in place? What about adding colored "ember" bits (blue and red) to support the M tricolore?
It's a cool idea, but doing it on RUclips might land you in trouble copyright wise, if BMW decide to be dicks about it and call their lawyer.
Very nice final result but what about showing it installed on the car? 👍👍
Awesome I’m working on a carbon fiber roof for a Polaris RZR
Amazing job buddy! Looks great
Hi m8, thanks for sharing this, I love a DIY project, plus I own a BMW 430d, so might have a go at this.
Question: can you not just coat the existing cover in carbon and leave it at that, instead of creating a mould, etc? Or will the carbon come away from the plastic over time?
Thanks!
진짜 정성이 대단합니다!!!
Can you please post the weight comparison of the final part and the plastic original?
Why did you remove the logos?
thats a ton of work man but excellent results
How you manage not to mess up your floor is beyond me
How important is it that you smash tins together and just generally be aggressive with cups etc?
hello great work. I have a question, what is pva? Greetings and thank you
Can you show how you do it with the mold for hollow bodies with a hole, for example a balloon with a hole. i know a stupid example, but i'm facing such a challenge right now, and i have no plan how i should start there, or how i should accomplish it, it should also be in such a flaked carbon. Very great video!
Cover across the hole from the back side with some card covered in aluminum foil tape, wax and fillet that with non drying clay. Then just treat it like there is no hole.
Hey great video, I have some small body pannels for rc cars I wanna have done in forged carbon fiber how would you go about smaller molds?
Vetroresina foderata, un gran lavorone ma sinceramente avrei solo incollato sull'originale 2 fogli di Carbonio con colla epossidica e poi lucidati
Dude that was dope af!! Awesome! Thank you for giving me more tools to succeed once I’m outta prison!
점 점 더 기술력이 상당해지네요 ㄷㄷ
Endlich mal wieder ein Video ❤
Looks amazing. Huge effort though
차에 껴있는거도 보고 싶은데 아쉽습니다 ㅎㅎㅎ 역시 대단하세요
What's PVA that u applied 3 times?
This is amazing. Makes me want to give it a go. Can you use the mold a second or third time?
fantastic job! what kind of carbon fiber weaves do you use?
My god this channel is slap happy
영상.기다렸습니다😊
Супер👍, что за PVA ? Как это расшифровывается , что за вещество ?😮
Спирт pva для разделения , он становиться плёнкой которая растворяется водой , но не смолой
Fantastic work, now where can I get a bucket of chopped carbon like yours?
Oh I started itching just by looking at him cutting the mold with a cutoff wheel. Used to spray laminate boats for a living one time in my life. Don’t miss that at all. Even ones breathing smelled like resin and gelcoat despite wearing a mask.
That is not actually forged carbon, you would need two mold halves to press the carbon to get the desired composition. But anyway good looking part!
Omg thats allllooooot of work 😱😱😱
Good work bro...nice...
Why you remove the BMW logo and M Power logo? difficult to mold? the carbon don't get inside the grooves?
Hi, been following for a while. Great job! I want to start working with carbon fiber too. Is the curing/baking process in the oven 100% necessary? Can you just let it cure at the room temperature?
If the parts never ever see sun or high heat, room temperature cure around 20-25C is fine. But in most cases carbon sees the outside world. I've left parts outside in the sun and they reached like 65C on their own. You need to cure in an oven, otherwise once in the sun the parts will distort and the weave will show, a part that looks shinny and beautiful will become very ugly.
Hello Friend.
The high TG epoxy resin I used is a resin that requires oven curing.
However, temperature curing is not normally required.
Different resins require different curing.
혹시 curing 과정을 왜 거치는지 알려주실 수 있나요?
주제 ㅡ 경화제를 섞어쓰는 에폭시가 아닌 열경화성 에폭시를 사용해서 그런건가요?
Awesome job, as always. Wondering what part of this did you find to be the most difficult?
Cleaning up the mess.
That grinding inside 😂
Is the process same for side skirts?
Can we make carbon fiber infusion or vacuum bagging without curing by oven?
Hello Friend.
The high TG epoxy resin I used is a resin that requires oven curing.
However, temperature curing is not normally required.
@@ECOLAPStudio OK, thankyou for your information 👍
Nice work!! Do you have the name or link for that pump? I like the look of it!!
WOW, amazing job!
오랜만에 영상 좋아요!! 👍
Wow wow wow 🎉🎉🎉😮😮😮 the best !!!!!!!
Beau travail ! 🇨🇵😎👍
Это же стеклоткань... Зачем обманывать? Но мне понравилась технология! 😊
Good job. Amazing!!!
Здравствуйте. Очень красивое изделие. Подскажите пожалуйста какой Вы используете клей в конце видео для склеивания композитных деталей между собой.
where did you bought all products??
That's beautiful!
Whyyyyyy god a Manual vacuum Pump?!?! ahahahahahaha
EXCELENT job!
Amazing!! Looks complicated af thi
I notice that you have no protection while doing with fiberglass. Are you immune from that?
He have the Asian passive ability. Being a ble to immune from chemical fumes up to 60 years old