I think the fact that you let everyone know that you failed multiple times is very important for those first starting out. Too many people get discouraged after watching other videos that make it seem easy and as if they get the perfect product every time or after the first try. So thanks for being completely transparent about that.
100% Fear of failure and perfectionism held me back for years, my life genuinely didn’t even begin until my mid 20’s when I got a better handle on my anxiety.
I worked CF composites at Koenigsegg, and the strategy that ended up working was kind of close to how we worked. The difference is that we never use sleeves for anything, but instead regular 240gr weave, but pre-preg. The reason your weave ended up wavy and inconsistent is because your weave wasn't cut out for the dimensions of the pipe. My suggestion is to buy 240gr pre-preg CF weaves. You can store rolls of them pretty much indefinitely in a freezer. Take your CAD drawings of your molds, "unfold" them onto a 2D plane, and cut the shapes into your CF weave + like 1cm in each direction. Then just laminate the mold with your CF weave, and use a box cutter to just cut off the excess along the edge of the mold. The pre-preg makes your CF weave kind of stiff, so it's easy to cut through it without the weave bunching up. Apply 2 more layers but leave the overlap on one of the molds; when you connect the two molds, take the overlap and make that the connection point to the CF on the opposite mold. And then just connect the two molds the same way you did, with the vacuum tube running down the middle, the breather, and all that. With the pre-preg you also won't need to do any treatment, like polishing etc. It all comes out looking good enough to be inside an engine bay. All you gotta do is cut off those excess strands of epoxy that seeps out the cracks of the mold with a box cutter.
Hello friend. I know the job is very easy with prepreg carbon fiber. I have prepreg carbon fibers. But I wanted to make it a handlayup for less cost. Thank you so much for your advice.
@@farhangorengtepung for internal CF components we don't polish, but all exterior and interior components including the visible engine bay gets polished. But no you don't "have to" polish it; polishing just adds the extra 10%. Yes, that includes Christian's head as well.
You should consider using dowels as alignment pins next time you make a mold. You could probably program your printer to do it for you, or just add them after the fact. But it would really help in ensuring alignment of the two sides is proper.
You could have wetted the carbon, wetted the inside of the mold, clamped the molds and then inflated internal bags, no need for vacuum bag on outside. Sometimes it's easier this way. Props for showing the process and failures. Nice work.
I would recommend watching a couple videos on how CF bike frames are made. Typically they use a bladder to blow up the inside of the tube, then vacuum the outside. And, as others have said, they use precut pieces of prepreg. It's fun to do it your way sometimes, but when you want the job done, check what others in the industry are doing. Did you do any pressure testing on the pipes? What about the mounting tabs?
i love the fact that you showed you failed for months! You're the reason i started making carbon parts for my car and trying different ways of doing it as well. Keep up the amazing work
Massive level of effort and learning for 2 parts. Really glad you showed the time and effort it takes to make this sort of stuff (which is why they are SOOOO expensive to buy.) Great to also see that you persisted and didnt give up.
Not only that, due to it being for a customer rather than personal, it has to be made to perfection, atleast he can get away with minuture imperfections
I love that part with the windows error sound along with the p-dog screaming, so fitting especially when things don't go the way we would like. Great stuff, enjoyed watching your video. Thank you : )
Glad you got it figured out, but yeah, these are typically done with build-up layers. The outside layer adjacent to the mold face is the 'pretty' layer and done as one piece cut to shape, then subsequent layers reinforced for strength flange into the other half (the overlap) while the 2nd half fits inside the first at the seam. Too many people get stuck on the epoxy thinking that it's the component that gives a part strength, when its primary job is to essentially lock the carbon in place for shape. There's a lot of tricks you can use for other considerations specific for its working environment that also could also enable its use for downpipes, but there isn't an 'off the shelf' resin specifically for that due to epoxy's low heat tolerance. I specialize in extreme heat use and it took me several years to formulate one that can withstand exceptionally high heat (currently exploring in the 5600*F and above neighborhood) but in that usage, you most certainly won't have a 'show level' esthetic part anymore. In the future, I would print your parts as you intend them to look and function, then build your molds in fiberglass with generous flanges, use your tool coat for the inside and progressively sand up to 2000 grit for a perfect surface finish. Prepreg isn't strictly necessary for one-offs, but if you were to be doing this in a production use, you will end up with a stronger part for optimum carbon/resin ratio and less overall waste. But then again, you'd also need all the support equipment for pre-preg and not be doing this on the internet.😁
My favorite part of watching your videos is knowing that these parts go on your M4! I'm ready to take my entire M3 apart and do the same. Great job overcoming a clearly difficult piece, it turned out very nice.
i tried making an intake pipe for a friend a while back, was super messy but somehow got it to work, it was far from perfect, but i wasn't aiming for perfection. Props to you for trying until its perfect, very inspiring as always!
In the beginning I was all set to ask if you had any interest in making sets for the Audi B5 S4, C5 A6/Allroad owners with 2.7L TT’s and I’d organize a bulk buy but….. wow. Good work!
For a part like that, since you were using two layers anyways, I think I would have done a single layer in each half as seperate halves, then assembled them and spiral wrapped it to bind it all together with the second layer.
I started doing carbon fiber work, and I have two words for you: wet sand. Even at 120 grit it works super well! Zero dust, and the sandpaper lasts way longer. You don't even need to wear a mask or gloves. I also found 320 grit works the best for leveling the surface, without worrying about sanding too deep.
When I saw the bin getting full from failed parts, I couldn't stop laughing hysterically. This was literally my 4 month period trying to deliver consistent parts for a customer. Only those who have failed can understand the frustration and pain. But in the end, this is a distant memory, which when reminded in the future, is gonna be amusing. Believe me. Good luck on your job!
I would advise you to build or buy a professional dust system. You can make money now, but you would't be able to reverse the damage in your lungs later. Start on looking dust extraction system for woodworking. I personally built myself one from 1.5kW ventilation motor from a grill house.
@@keronGR Which filters are you using in that process? I Would think you would have to use something in the ballpark of HEPA H13 to get the Carbon particles out of the air right?
@@JonasE-l7q Think this process as a multiple stage. First you need to build a dust separator. Nothing fancy here, just youtube and you will find plenty DIY. This is important, as all the heavy particles or objects will fall in the bin. After the dust separator, you build a box with 2 or three filters. FIRST is a PRE-FILTER (G1-G4 class), SECOND is a BAG FILTER (M5-M6, F7-F9 class) and at the end you can add an absolute Filter or HEPA. Me, I don't use HEPA filter, because it reduces the performance of the vacuum motor. I just frequently wash and clean the filters. I use a 1.5kW ventilation motor, it's so damn strong it sucks many of my tools laying on the table. But I would also add another fan, ziptied to a prefilter, mounted on the back of the table, so that it absorbs even the tiniest particles, which the vacuum system has missed. Hope my answer is helpfull
Don’t know why but the thumbs up at the end made the whole video for me. Almost like I could here you screaming “YEEESSS” internally lol. Congrats man on a job well done.
pretty cool. i specialized in carbon fabrication for about 10 years. just wondering why you didnt vent the bladders to atmosphere or pressurize them after the molds were under vacuum? at least i didnt see that in the vid, but they turned out really nice in the end regardless. well done mate!
I think it’s hard to notice, but it seems like he sandwiched the bladders in the seal so that air could enter them. He places another strip of seal on top to make the seal above, but there is nothing sealing the bladder from atmosphere. It looks flat but air can definitely get in.
Because he isnt using bladders. Look closer, those are just small tube bags. Very common for what hes doing. Thats how I make these tubes as well. No need for bladders. He needed to put breather inside the tubes though so his.....vacuum....(wont get into that) would hold the carbon to the walls of the mold. My thing though, is since he put it in an oven, why not use prepreg instead? Oh well.
I've got no knowledge in carbon fabrication but I'd have thought pulling a vacuum in the bag then pressurising the tubes that pass through the carbon sleeves with something like a bicycle inner tube (which would obviously need to be cut and re-sealed so it's no longer a loop) so they conform to the walls of the moulds while the epoxy cures would have been a good starting point?
@@Mortimusmoose yeah I was also confused by the lack of a proper vacuum pump, lack of breather on the inside, and why he originally tried to use sleeves/tubes absolutely saturated with resin, rather than just hand laying sheets in the first place when he literally made a 2 piece mould to allow that. Putting a discouraging title making out that it's impossible to DIY is really annoying when there's so many basic things wrong with the method he's using, which could be learned with a tiny bit of research...
@@jnxmck Yes....you just described a bladder. Perfectly fine for this. You can do it either way. If you dont have access to a bladder, you can do it the way he did it, or how I described. Bladders are the easiest way to do it though for sure.
Hey amazing video, i was wondering instead of vaccum pressuring the moulds, would it been possible if you had tightly secured the two halfs of the mould and filled air in those transparent pipes that you filled inside the carbon fiber pipes? I am not a professional at this or never tried doing this kind of stuff before but all this time i was thinking of this idea to fill air in those pipes. Would this idea have worked?
It wouldve been the correct way. That or having bags inside the pipe connected to the atmoaphere. Bagging the mould like he did , did absolutely nothing.
@@helldiablo8471 i would assume that bagging the whole mould would help to keep the two halves together right? By pressurising the inner sleeve you would have to make sure that the mold doesnt seperate
Vert nice! If you can't use prepreg's to ensure a nice glossy finish (the finish of your mould determines that) you can apply a layer of 2k clearcoat and wait for it to just "flash-off" proir to moulding. You get a great finish after just a little bit if polishing.
Your level of persistence is inspiring to say the least! 99% of people would've given up after the first attempt had failed... But you kept going which is insane (in a good way). And I still can't believe you do all of your work directly on your laminate floor. You should build a small workbench since you do so much of this stuff as it can't be that comfortable working on the floor! Anyway, always fun to see a new video from you regardless of the project and result.
Its armchair quarterbacking but any tube made really needs to be over a mandrel and if they have any curves they always start with a silicone bladder. They look great. Your molds are top notch for being 3D printed. It was far more trouble than I would have gone through when I would have just made a split mold and put a bladder in it.
A bladder was myb1st thought. Would also reduce any imperfections in the internal flow too, seen as these are going to have very fast flowing air pass through them...
amazing! following your tutorials, i repaired my cracked front lip for my m6. i'm looking to refinish my mirror caps and eventuri intakes now :). can you pls lmk where i can get the same or similar resin, hardener and clear that you use in the US? are there certain characteristics in a good resin & hardener that that we should look for? thanks!
Amazing. I don't know why yt recommended this but I love the editing and the fact that all the failures were shared. I had no idea carbon fibres were sold in sleeves either!
Superb video! I'm just wondering something, would it work if you use the carbon sleeves with the vaccum bag inside of them and you try to put air (more pressure than normal atmosphere pressure) in them to push the carbon sleeves to the walls of your mold ? Maybe you've tried it already though.
Using internal bladders is a common technique when molding hollow parts. When the part is open on bother ends, you can use an inner vacuum bag and an outer vacuum bad and join them together to vacuum bag the whole part. Two days ago, the channel *Matthieu Libeert* made a tutorial about making carbon fiber tubes. One of the methods used a mold which included the above described technique for vacuum bagging the part.
Beautiful work as always! I also got a CR scan and have been using it to scan a K24 to design my own ITBs. Your change of moulding techniques was very interesting! Have you tried layering carbon fiber over a water soluble 3D printing support material and then melting it after setting with vacuum? I've always meant to try that!
You got me worried in the beginning when you used paper and marker instead of the 3d scanner, which I also bought when you showcased it.😅 I am still wondering why the sleeves did not work. I thought it should be perfectly fine if you do sort of a doughnut shape bag where "hole" goes through the sleeve, so air can expand there.
I agree that the first method was better for structural integrity of the part as it was less likely to fail. He even had a pinhole in the part that he had to fix with another epoxy coating.
Appreciated the persistence here. Would there have been any way to actively inflate or pressure the inner vacuum tube to expand the sleeve a bit better? FWIW ice also seen a RUclips builder 3d print a positive mold, put the sleeve around it. After curing with resin, they melted the 3d mold out in a hot water bath.
Next time anyone complains that CF parts are expensive for no reason, show this video. The amount of work you have to put for one part is ridiculous, anyway great content. you've earned a SUB.
Interesting project. I found 'Easy Composites' pre-packaged parts kit and YT tutorial work very well, especially the pre-preg for cylindrical parts . Of course you could just get a CF extruder for your printer and some CF/nylon filament but with those complex curves, layout and supports would be a headache/ fun to experiment with. At any rate, what you're doing here is better than spending 16 hrs a day playing video games, so keep at it. BIG THUMBS UP!
CF extruder? Oh I think you mean hardened tool steel/ruby/tunsten nozzle im assuming. Most people dont realize you can print most exotic HT filiments on basic DD machines even with a brass nozzle but your going to have to throw the nozzle away afterwards as it will be enlarged but not as much as people think tbh. Mainily its all about heated build chamber and textured PEI spring steel sheet with Nano coating from Vision Miner. (Secret trick of the trade, that stuff will lock ABS at room temp to glass, its serious stuff!).
That looked really painful! I subbed just because the effort in this one video must mean you’ve gone through other painful processes too. End product looks great!!
Quick question since Ive never tried to make anything out of carbon fiber. Can you make a mold of the original pipe, fill that mold with plaster, then make your tube by wrapping the carbon fiber around the plaster mold? Kinda like making a cast item.
Awesome work, with a nice finish. One small idea (unsure if you did it or not) is to sand and polish the interior of the pipes for reduced drag. Mind you give it 15,000km they will be filled with various gunk but it could add a minor increase in air flow
You need access to an autoclave. You could have done a seamless layup with the positive pressure and ran a cure cycle at the same time. I know it’s not the best for a DIY video but that would have saved you a few months work. Do you print your own molds? This is great work for wet layup tutorials! I’m glad I subscribed.
Nice job. I have 2 questions. 1) 10:38 You left a margin of approximately 4-5 mm in the canvases on both halves of the mold. And when you pressed these halves to each other, in my opinion, these protruding edges should have bent in a chaotic shape along the entire border of the joint (in particular, considering that the canvases are crimped from the outside with a mold, then, in my opinion, they should have bent inward of the pipe). But 13:07 when you pulled them out, along this joint line only excess epoxy resin formed in the form of a white crust (it seemed so to me), but for some reason both halves of the canvas lay Perfectly on top of each other, as if there was a clean overlap. How did it happen ? Is it possible to control this ? 2) 10:57 What functions does this green ribbon perform ?
Great Video, but I have a question. If I see this correct, the 2 sides of a pipe are not connected by fibres, only by matrix (resin), because you used 2 pieces for the mold, right? Are you not concerned if that withstands the pressure inside the pipe?
After you soak your carbon in resin place it between 2 peace’s of plastic and use a dough roller to squeeze out the excess resin. DYI prepreg. It also works great with a lay up. Place all the wetted bull material between clear plastic. Roll the excess out. Place template on top and out line with a sharpie. Cut through it all with a knife. Peal one side and apply. That’s how I do it at the race track in a time crunch between rounds.
Very nice tubes, but I mean, the really important is the inner tube. The metal connectors you mount made an edge in airflow. I made several tubes for bikes and test on a dymo. The smallest edge costs power! My tubes are shorter, wraped around of 2K-silicone forms. So the inner form was defined better. Sorry for german english ;-)
Love the effort! You put a ton of work into something that most will never see under the hood. I felt that way when I put anodized CAC pipes on my Superduty.
I like your video because even if you fail several times, you still try until you can. I watched a lot of your videos, from there I learned a lot about how to make Carbon Fiber from you. Thank you I say to you 🎉🎉❤
Hi you very nice videos. i am want to buy a setup just like you which creality 3d printer and 3d scanner are you using ? keep going making these awesome diy videos
Don't you need to pressurize the inner liners? So they expand and force the shape of the inside of the tubes? Maybe just clamp the shells together and pressurize the inner liner?
I was also wondering that, kevlar karbon sleeves are rather cheap and if that worked it would make easy composite charge pipes. Some 80s group B cars featured kevlar charge pipes so i think it's such a pity that this is still not popular in tuner scene
Great video. Maybe you could try using water soluble filament to print out the core of the pipe, lay the carbon sleeve on it and dissolve the core in the water after it’s finished?
Ive never worked with any carbon fiber but would it not be a good idea to either partially or fully harder the two halfves and then wrap another carbon sleave around the 2 halves to then cure fully ? I just think that since it would give at lease one consistent layer all the way around ?
Now that you achieved the structural duct, would it be possible to add the carbon fiber sleeve over the duct as a wet layup, wrapped with tape, for a additional reinforcement and as a cosmetic layer?
Could have done the first method if you passed the plastic that went inside the sleeves to the outside. Atmospheric pressure would have inflated the plastic sock and filled the mold. However I loved the alternate work around you did looks awesome
All of this. And it's a BMW. First video I've watched. Good form. I love the trial and error. I've wanted to make a carbon fiber beauty cover for my n54 for so long.
![How to Make a Forged Carbon Fiber Engine Cover [DIY]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tHLCqQFDZjU/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to Make a Forged Carbon Fiber Engine Cover [DIY]](/img/tr.png)
![How to Make a Carbon Fiber Swan Neck Wing [DIY] (with 3D Printed Molds)](/img/1.gif)
I think the fact that you let everyone know that you failed multiple times is very important for those first starting out. Too many people get discouraged after watching other videos that make it seem easy and as if they get the perfect product every time or after the first try. So thanks for being completely transparent about that.
100% Fear of failure and perfectionism held me back for years, my life genuinely didn’t even begin until my mid 20’s when I got a better handle on my anxiety.
Well he never succeeded. Those last ones were horrid.
@@robsdeviceunknown I wouldn't call them horrid, I'd be happy with those results.
@@robsdeviceunknown Id like to see you try...
for sure
I worked CF composites at Koenigsegg, and the strategy that ended up working was kind of close to how we worked. The difference is that we never use sleeves for anything, but instead regular 240gr weave, but pre-preg. The reason your weave ended up wavy and inconsistent is because your weave wasn't cut out for the dimensions of the pipe.
My suggestion is to buy 240gr pre-preg CF weaves. You can store rolls of them pretty much indefinitely in a freezer. Take your CAD drawings of your molds, "unfold" them onto a 2D plane, and cut the shapes into your CF weave + like 1cm in each direction. Then just laminate the mold with your CF weave, and use a box cutter to just cut off the excess along the edge of the mold. The pre-preg makes your CF weave kind of stiff, so it's easy to cut through it without the weave bunching up. Apply 2 more layers but leave the overlap on one of the molds; when you connect the two molds, take the overlap and make that the connection point to the CF on the opposite mold.
And then just connect the two molds the same way you did, with the vacuum tube running down the middle, the breather, and all that.
With the pre-preg you also won't need to do any treatment, like polishing etc. It all comes out looking good enough to be inside an engine bay. All you gotta do is cut off those excess strands of epoxy that seeps out the cracks of the mold with a box cutter.
You should make just 1 video.
Hello friend.
I know the job is very easy with prepreg carbon fiber.
I have prepreg carbon fibers.
But I wanted to make it a handlayup for less cost.
Thank you so much for your advice.
with pre-preg u wont need to polish them right? are you apply the polish for your ceo's head?
@@farhangorengtepung for internal CF components we don't polish, but all exterior and interior components including the visible engine bay gets polished. But no you don't "have to" polish it; polishing just adds the extra 10%. Yes, that includes Christian's head as well.
@@ohedd 🧑🏻🦲✨✨ 😂
You know Mr. Eco-LAP is serious when he puts on his trusty rubber gloves
Especially the Black ones!!!
You should consider using dowels as alignment pins next time you make a mold. You could probably program your printer to do it for you, or just add them after the fact.
But it would really help in ensuring alignment of the two sides is proper.
True, but here, I think the vacuum bag's pressure forces alignment of the outside edges of the molds, so it works fine.
you can see they are wavy so they lock together.
Amazing that you made those in under 17 minutes. It would have taken me at least twice as long.
But yours would have weight half of his but still more than the original.
At least!
Should have done it in under 12 mins...
Is this comment a joke? If it is, then what is supposed to be funny about it?
@@sepg5084 would you just.... OK??.... Just..... OK?
Always put positioning pins & holes on your mould sections.
Exactly. Or design location features into the mould sections.
He has positioning locked in with waves in the mold halves
You could have wetted the carbon, wetted the inside of the mold, clamped the molds and then inflated internal bags, no need for vacuum bag on outside. Sometimes it's easier this way. Props for showing the process and failures. Nice work.
I like to use inner bike tubes inside of the internal bags it let me controll it a lot.
Also using a weave works better for me then tube
Was expecting the "Do Not Make" to be them splitting along the seams at 2bar at the end. Good job working your way through this complex layup
I would recommend watching a couple videos on how CF bike frames are made. Typically they use a bladder to blow up the inside of the tube, then vacuum the outside. And, as others have said, they use precut pieces of prepreg. It's fun to do it your way sometimes, but when you want the job done, check what others in the industry are doing. Did you do any pressure testing on the pipes? What about the mounting tabs?
i love the fact that you showed you failed for months! You're the reason i started making carbon parts for my car and trying different ways of doing it as well. Keep up the amazing work
Massive level of effort and learning for 2 parts. Really glad you showed the time and effort it takes to make this sort of stuff (which is why they are SOOOO expensive to buy.) Great to also see that you persisted and didnt give up.
Not only that, due to it being for a customer rather than personal, it has to be made to perfection, atleast he can get away with minuture imperfections
I love that part with the windows error sound along with the p-dog screaming, so fitting especially when things don't go the way we would like. Great stuff, enjoyed watching your video. Thank you : )
Glad you got it figured out, but yeah, these are typically done with build-up layers. The outside layer adjacent to the mold face is the 'pretty' layer and done as one piece cut to shape, then subsequent layers reinforced for strength flange into the other half (the overlap) while the 2nd half fits inside the first at the seam. Too many people get stuck on the epoxy thinking that it's the component that gives a part strength, when its primary job is to essentially lock the carbon in place for shape. There's a lot of tricks you can use for other considerations specific for its working environment that also could also enable its use for downpipes, but there isn't an 'off the shelf' resin specifically for that due to epoxy's low heat tolerance.
I specialize in extreme heat use and it took me several years to formulate one that can withstand exceptionally high heat (currently exploring in the 5600*F and above neighborhood) but in that usage, you most certainly won't have a 'show level' esthetic part anymore.
In the future, I would print your parts as you intend them to look and function, then build your molds in fiberglass with generous flanges, use your tool coat for the inside and progressively sand up to 2000 grit for a perfect surface finish. Prepreg isn't strictly necessary for one-offs, but if you were to be doing this in a production use, you will end up with a stronger part for optimum carbon/resin ratio and less overall waste. But then again, you'd also need all the support equipment for pre-preg and not be doing this on the internet.😁
Prepreg is significantly easier to work with tho 🤔
My favorite part of watching your videos is knowing that these parts go on your M4! I'm ready to take my entire M3 apart and do the same. Great job overcoming a clearly difficult piece, it turned out very nice.
Bro i have to see it! Upload it to youtube!!
i tried making an intake pipe for a friend a while back, was super messy but somehow got it to work, it was far from perfect, but i wasn't aiming for perfection. Props to you for trying until its perfect, very inspiring as always!
In the beginning I was all set to ask if you had any interest in making sets for the Audi B5 S4, C5 A6/Allroad owners with 2.7L TT’s and I’d organize a bulk buy but….. wow. Good work!
Dude, the amount of effort you put into them, hats off to you.
My new favourite DIY channel ... Quick, to the point with a dabble of comedic genius. Perfect
For a part like that, since you were using two layers anyways, I think I would have done a single layer in each half as seperate halves, then assembled them and spiral wrapped it to bind it all together with the second layer.
I started doing carbon fiber work, and I have two words for you: wet sand. Even at 120 grit it works super well! Zero dust, and the sandpaper lasts way longer. You don't even need to wear a mask or gloves. I also found 320 grit works the best for leveling the surface, without worrying about sanding too deep.
When I saw the bin getting full from failed parts, I couldn't stop laughing hysterically. This was literally my 4 month period trying to deliver consistent parts for a customer. Only those who have failed can understand the frustration and pain. But in the end, this is a distant memory, which when reminded in the future, is gonna be amusing. Believe me. Good luck on your job!
I would advise you to build or buy a professional dust system. You can make money now, but you would't be able to reverse the damage in your lungs later. Start on looking dust extraction system for woodworking. I personally built myself one from 1.5kW ventilation motor from a grill house.
@@keronGR Which filters are you using in that process? I Would think you would have to use something in the ballpark of HEPA H13 to get the Carbon particles out of the air right?
@@JonasE-l7q Think this process as a multiple stage. First you need to build a dust separator. Nothing fancy here, just youtube and you will find plenty DIY. This is important, as all the heavy particles or objects will fall in the bin. After the dust separator, you build a box with 2 or three filters. FIRST is a PRE-FILTER (G1-G4 class), SECOND is a BAG FILTER (M5-M6, F7-F9 class) and at the end you can add an absolute Filter or HEPA. Me, I don't use HEPA filter, because it reduces the performance of the vacuum motor. I just frequently wash and clean the filters. I use a 1.5kW ventilation motor, it's so damn strong it sucks many of my tools laying on the table. But I would also add another fan, ziptied to a prefilter, mounted on the back of the table, so that it absorbs even the tiniest particles, which the vacuum system has missed. Hope my answer is helpfull
Don’t know why but the thumbs up at the end made the whole video for me. Almost like I could here you screaming “YEEESSS” internally lol.
Congrats man on a job well done.
pretty cool. i specialized in carbon fabrication for about 10 years. just wondering why you didnt vent the bladders to atmosphere or pressurize them after the molds were under vacuum? at least i didnt see that in the vid, but they turned out really nice in the end regardless. well done mate!
I think it’s hard to notice, but it seems like he sandwiched the bladders in the seal so that air could enter them. He places another strip of seal on top to make the seal above, but there is nothing sealing the bladder from atmosphere. It looks flat but air can definitely get in.
Because he isnt using bladders. Look closer, those are just small tube bags. Very common for what hes doing. Thats how I make these tubes as well. No need for bladders. He needed to put breather inside the tubes though so his.....vacuum....(wont get into that) would hold the carbon to the walls of the mold. My thing though, is since he put it in an oven, why not use prepreg instead? Oh well.
I've got no knowledge in carbon fabrication but I'd have thought pulling a vacuum in the bag then pressurising the tubes that pass through the carbon sleeves with something like a bicycle inner tube (which would obviously need to be cut and re-sealed so it's no longer a loop) so they conform to the walls of the moulds while the epoxy cures would have been a good starting point?
@@Mortimusmoose yeah I was also confused by the lack of a proper vacuum pump, lack of breather on the inside, and why he originally tried to use sleeves/tubes absolutely saturated with resin, rather than just hand laying sheets in the first place when he literally made a 2 piece mould to allow that.
Putting a discouraging title making out that it's impossible to DIY is really annoying when there's so many basic things wrong with the method he's using, which could be learned with a tiny bit of research...
@@jnxmck Yes....you just described a bladder. Perfectly fine for this. You can do it either way. If you dont have access to a bladder, you can do it the way he did it, or how I described. Bladders are the easiest way to do it though for sure.
너무 오랫만에 올려주셨네요~~👍👍👍👍👍
Dam good job. Thanks for sticking with it I make parts as well and it is so frustrating whenever it keeps failing over and over.
I love the way you make your videos bro, i mean, your sence of humor, is almost from hevens. thanks, cheers from Mexico city. I love you
Hey amazing video, i was wondering instead of vaccum pressuring the moulds, would it been possible if you had tightly secured the two halfs of the mould and filled air in those transparent pipes that you filled inside the carbon fiber pipes? I am not a professional at this or never tried doing this kind of stuff before but all this time i was thinking of this idea to fill air in those pipes. Would this idea have worked?
It wouldve been the correct way. That or having bags inside the pipe connected to the atmoaphere. Bagging the mould like he did , did absolutely nothing.
@@helldiablo8471 He did have bags in the pipes connected to the atmosphere..
@@helldiablo8471 i would assume that bagging the whole mould would help to keep the two halves together right?
By pressurising the inner sleeve you would have to make sure that the mold doesnt seperate
I think this would have been good providing he could reinforce the mold so it doesnt seperate under the pressure
@@markmorgan7370 yeah it keeps the mould together but doesnt expand the sleeves into the mold which is the point of bagging...
Still forgetting too pat the bear on the wipes 🙄😂 great commitment and amazing result!! 👏👏👏👏
구독하며 늘 챙겨보는 채널인데 이번작업 난이도는 정말 헬중에 헬 그자체네요,,,대단하세요!!!!
더베스트랩 잘 보고 있습니다
감사합니다^^
@@ECOLAPStudio 핸들 제작 의뢰하고싶습니다!!!
Vert nice! If you can't use prepreg's to ensure a nice glossy finish (the finish of your mould determines that) you can apply a layer of 2k clearcoat and wait for it to just "flash-off" proir to moulding. You get a great finish after just a little bit if polishing.
Absolute mad lad. Such a great video, showing every bit of the build process. Awesome work!
I love the work! The failures are rare depicted, thank you for showing that and for crushing your goals!!!!
Your level of persistence is inspiring to say the least! 99% of people would've given up after the first attempt had failed... But you kept going which is insane (in a good way). And I still can't believe you do all of your work directly on your laminate floor. You should build a small workbench since you do so much of this stuff as it can't be that comfortable working on the floor! Anyway, always fun to see a new video from you regardless of the project and result.
I believe it is a bench/table - on some shots you can see the edge of it at the bottom right?
@@gordowg1wg145 That would make a whole lot of sense then! A bench with laminate floor panels, that's pretty clever.
ECO-LAP Studio has now gone next level. I love it!
Its armchair quarterbacking but any tube made really needs to be over a mandrel and if they have any curves they always start with a silicone bladder. They look great. Your molds are top notch for being 3D printed. It was far more trouble than I would have gone through when I would have just made a split mold and put a bladder in it.
A bladder was myb1st thought. Would also reduce any imperfections in the internal flow too, seen as these are going to have very fast flowing air pass through them...
you are alive! i really thought something happened to you for not uploading any videos for so long glad to see you are ok keep up the great work
amazing! following your tutorials, i repaired my cracked front lip for my m6. i'm looking to refinish my mirror caps and eventuri intakes now :). can you pls lmk where i can get the same or similar resin, hardener and clear that you use in the US? are there certain characteristics in a good resin & hardener that that we should look for? thanks!
Amazing. I don't know why yt recommended this but I love the editing and the fact that all the failures were shared. I had no idea carbon fibres were sold in sleeves either!
Superb video! I'm just wondering something, would it work if you use the carbon sleeves with the vaccum bag inside of them and you try to put air (more pressure than normal atmosphere pressure) in them to push the carbon sleeves to the walls of your mold ? Maybe you've tried it already though.
I wondered about that too.
Using internal bladders is a common technique when molding hollow parts. When the part is open on bother ends, you can use an inner vacuum bag and an outer vacuum bad and join them together to vacuum bag the whole part. Two days ago, the channel *Matthieu Libeert* made a tutorial about making carbon fiber tubes. One of the methods used a mold which included the above described technique for vacuum bagging the part.
Awesome video dude.
les joies du composite... super video j'ai passé un super moment x) !!
Beautiful work as always! I also got a CR scan and have been using it to scan a K24 to design my own ITBs.
Your change of moulding techniques was very interesting! Have you tried layering carbon fiber over a water soluble 3D printing support material and then melting it after setting with vacuum? I've always meant to try that!
i actully thought about that too! :)
Or why not use an inflatable tube inside like a balloon. Something that you put pressure to
@@limitlessbuilds thats what he did, the bags inside the tubes are open to the outside so when he applies vacuum, they inflate
@@guachingmanhe should have put some air in the hoses and seal them. Only connecting to outside makes duckbill effect, and I'm not sure he did that.
차리뷰영상도 시간 되시면 만들어주세요!! 특히 엔진룸이 너무 멋져요
Great work! wich software do you use for reverse engineering after the 3d scanning ??
He uses Fusion 360
This is some really good stuff. You've got me watching and thinking about how I might approach my own projects.
You got me worried in the beginning when you used paper and marker instead of the 3d scanner, which I also bought when you showcased it.😅
I am still wondering why the sleeves did not work. I thought it should be perfectly fine if you do sort of a doughnut shape bag where "hole" goes through the sleeve, so air can expand there.
The sleeves aren't working cause the vacuum process pushes the excess resin between the sleeve and the mold.
@@TheTechnoaddict thank you. I was wondering the same thing 👍
Very nice, took an awful lot of work but you got there in the end. definitely worth the effort, well done 👍
처음 방법이 맞긴 합니다만, 레진량이 많으셨고 튜브쪽 압력이 부족한게 문제였을 겁니다. 파이프류 좌우 붙이는 형태는..신뢰성 문제로 잘 안하는데ㅠ
진공펌프 하나 장만하세요!
I agree that the first method was better for structural integrity of the part as it was less likely to fail. He even had a pinhole in the part that he had to fix with another epoxy coating.
Top notch work man, oh and your persistence is also level 100.
와....진짜 이런거 판매하셔야하는거 아닙니까.. 구형타는 오너입장에서 이제 정품카본은 구할수가 없어서 하고싶네요
Appreciated the persistence here. Would there have been any way to actively inflate or pressure the inner vacuum tube to expand the sleeve a bit better? FWIW ice also seen a RUclips builder 3d print a positive mold, put the sleeve around it. After curing with resin, they melted the 3d mold out in a hot water bath.
Just some air in the inner tube and seal it would have been enough
포기 안하고 끝까지 만드셨다는게 본인 차를 얼마나 아끼는지 알 수 있었네요!! 차도 멋져요!!👍👍👍🔥🔥🔥🔥
Next time anyone complains that CF parts are expensive for no reason, show this video. The amount of work you have to put for one part is ridiculous, anyway great content. you've earned a SUB.
You created your own prepreg material and did not need an oven to cure. Clever!
My favorite part was the crumpling of paper in the beginning. The failure is the unseen part of design work
Kudos for bridging the gap between Carbon Fiber fabrication and ASMR.
갬성마력 대폭상승! 이번에도 진짜 많은 시행착오와 시간이 들어가셨네여ㅜㅜ
Wow... great job dude! SUBSCRIBED!
매번 챙겨보고 있는 구독자입니다!
퀄리티 높은 영상 감사합니다
Interesting project. I found 'Easy Composites' pre-packaged parts kit and YT tutorial work very well, especially the pre-preg for cylindrical parts . Of course you could just get a CF extruder for your printer and some CF/nylon filament but with those complex curves, layout and supports would be a headache/ fun to experiment with. At any rate, what you're doing here is better than spending 16 hrs a day playing video games, so keep at it. BIG THUMBS UP!
CF extruder? Oh I think you mean hardened tool steel/ruby/tunsten nozzle im assuming. Most people dont realize you can print most exotic HT filiments on basic DD machines even with a brass nozzle but your going to have to throw the nozzle away afterwards as it will be enlarged but not as much as people think tbh. Mainily its all about heated build chamber and textured PEI spring steel sheet with Nano coating from Vision Miner. (Secret trick of the trade, that stuff will lock ABS at room temp to glass, its serious stuff!).
That looked really painful! I subbed just because the effort in this one video must mean you’ve gone through other painful processes too. End product looks great!!
Nice carbonfiber channel❤
👍
You are God of carbon! 80th level!!!
👍😁Creatively made video
Quick question since Ive never tried to make anything out of carbon fiber. Can you make a mold of the original pipe, fill that mold with plaster, then make your tube by wrapping the carbon fiber around the plaster mold? Kinda like making a cast item.
At least! You back. Good 😁👍
Great job!!
You have crazy passion 😍🥰
Awesome work, with a nice finish.
One small idea (unsure if you did it or not) is to sand and polish the interior of the pipes for reduced drag. Mind you give it 15,000km they will be filled with various gunk but it could add a minor increase in air flow
love it! can't wait for the next one!
You need access to an autoclave. You could have done a seamless layup with the positive pressure and ran a cure cycle at the same time. I know it’s not the best for a DIY video but that would have saved you a few months work. Do you print your own molds? This is great work for wet layup tutorials! I’m glad I subscribed.
Nice job. I have 2 questions. 1) 10:38 You left a margin of approximately 4-5 mm in the canvases on both halves of the mold. And when you pressed these halves to each other, in my opinion, these protruding edges should have bent in a chaotic shape along the entire border of the joint (in particular, considering that the canvases are crimped from the outside with a mold, then, in my opinion, they should have bent inward of the pipe). But 13:07 when you pulled them out, along this joint line only excess epoxy resin formed in the form of a white crust (it seemed so to me), but for some reason both halves of the canvas lay Perfectly on top of each other, as if there was a clean overlap. How did it happen ? Is it possible to control this ? 2) 10:57 What functions does this green ribbon perform ?
Great Video, but I have a question.
If I see this correct, the 2 sides of a pipe are not connected by fibres, only by matrix (resin), because you used 2 pieces for the mold, right? Are you not concerned if that withstands the pressure inside the pipe?
After you soak your carbon in resin place it between 2 peace’s of plastic and use a dough roller to squeeze out the excess resin. DYI prepreg. It also works great with a lay up. Place all the wetted bull material between clear plastic. Roll the excess out. Place template on top and out line with a sharpie. Cut through it all with a knife. Peal one side and apply. That’s how I do it at the race track in a time crunch between rounds.
Very nice tubes, but I mean, the really important is the inner tube. The metal connectors you mount made an edge in airflow. I made several tubes for bikes and test on a dymo. The smallest edge costs power! My tubes are shorter, wraped around of 2K-silicone forms. So the inner form was defined better. Sorry for german english ;-)
wow that was a lot of work, kudos for not giving up
Love the effort! You put a ton of work into something that most will never see under the hood. I felt that way when I put anodized CAC pipes on my Superduty.
Sehr geiles Video...unterhaltsam und informativ! Vielen Dank dafür!
카본을 집에서 다루는 한국 유튜버는 처음이군요 :>
I like your video because even if you fail several times, you still try until you can. I watched a lot of your videos, from there I learned a lot about how to make Carbon Fiber from you. Thank you I say to you 🎉🎉❤
Nice Video dont give up and Show us More Like this Hard work.
Hi you very nice videos. i am want to buy a setup just like you which creality 3d printer and 3d scanner are you using ?
keep going making these awesome diy videos
Wow, the way you started out looked so promising, who would have thought...
Perseverance, looks like your good at it 👍👍🤙
Don't you need to pressurize the inner liners? So they expand and force the shape of the inside of the tubes?
Maybe just clamp the shells together and pressurize the inner liner?
I was also wondering that, kevlar karbon sleeves are rather cheap and if that worked it would make easy composite charge pipes. Some 80s group B cars featured kevlar charge pipes so i think it's such a pity that this is still not popular in tuner scene
Great video. Maybe you could try using water soluble filament to print out the core of the pipe, lay the carbon sleeve on it and dissolve the core in the water after it’s finished?
Amazing work! Your perseverance and patience is incredible. Tenacious!
Ive never worked with any carbon fiber but would it not be a good idea to either partially or fully harder the two halfves and then wrap another carbon sleave around the 2 halves to then cure fully ? I just think that since it would give at lease one consistent layer all the way around ?
The art of carbon fiber work you just got to love it if not run like hell nice job
Nice work
Now that you achieved the structural duct, would it be possible to add the carbon fiber sleeve over the duct as a wet layup, wrapped with tape, for a additional reinforcement and as a cosmetic layer?
Yea, I had the same thoughts after seem the layout difference between his failed first iterations and his successful one.
Nice...Very nice I learn a lot from your videos it's a pleasure
People who never try will never fail, neither they succeed. Absolutely great video, You give people confidence try it and make 🤩
You are inspiring. Thank you for the effort you put into this amazing video for us.
I knew you were into something 😂. Amazing job like always!
Could have done the first method if you passed the plastic that went inside the sleeves to the outside. Atmospheric pressure would have inflated the plastic sock and filled the mold. However I loved the alternate work around you did looks awesome
What is the function called in fusion at 1:39 where you make circles around the scan?
Awesome editing, have done my share of faulty parts too, I feel you!
Didn't fail...just figured out a dozen ways NOT to make a CF charge pipe. Wonderful video my friend.
All of this. And it's a BMW. First video I've watched. Good form. I love the trial and error. I've wanted to make a carbon fiber beauty cover for my n54 for so long.
for the carbon sleeves, i think id try to use vacuum for the outside and compressed air in the inner tubes.