Very nice video tutorial. I have the same car and I was wondering how do they do this in service.(type 6L1 , 1.4 BXW). It was very interesting to watch,very useful, detailed and professional.
@@autodocuk hello, i have a question. haynes and vw say that the primary belt timing belt tensioner should be positioned at 10 o'clock and then the belt installed starting at water pump, primary belt tension, crank sprocket and then finally the camshaft sprocket. you fitted the timing belt tensioner last . does it really matter?
Great video, good detail - I am a bit confused by the tensioner securing bolt torques quoted, I understand these are critical and quoted to be 20nM but your video shows 37nM
Both tensioners are adjusted in the same way. The tension rollers are eccentric. There are 2 holes in the center, one hole for fastening, the second for adjustment with a 6-sided key. You need to unscrew the locking bolt a little, and with the second 6-sided key, achieve alignment with the mark, if you turn it to the left, the eccentric will move the roller in the same direction, and vice versa. To tighten, you need to turn it towards the belt.
Thanks for your question! When performing a replacement, you need to check the position of all marks so that they are in the correct position, otherwise you will need an additional check of the engine and most likely a more expensive repair.
i have this car last time i change it whas in 76000km now is 217000khm and i noticetd i miss it to change in 141000khm before ,i use the engine in no more 3500 rpm usualy less than 3000rpm generaly the manufacture tell to change to 75000khm but in all rpm? and if use the engine n low rpm in how many khm about you have + - khm statisticaly you have damage in the belts or beranigs or w pump ? i know if is damage is not only from the condtion of belt but the condtion of bearings, the factory in how many khm in how many rpms start the problems ?
Operating the engine in any operating range does not cause belt wear. The belt is designed for mileage. If you operate the engine under increased loads, then most likely something connected with the engine will fail, and not the belt. AUTODOC
Hello! Most of the torque values provided in this video are not coherent with the official repair manual provided by SEAT. 13:03 Both bolts holding on the water pump should be torqued to 20 Nm not 22 Nm 14:52 50 Nm not 34 Nm 15:16 50 Nm not 37 Nm 15:50 20 Nm not 37 Nm 16:57 20 Nm not 37 Nm 18:14 50 Nm not 70 Nm (also they should be replaced as they are torque-to-yield bolts) 18:39 30 Nm + 1/4 turn not 70 Nm (also they should be replaced as they are torque-to-yield bolts)
Hello! I have a question: Is the 150Nm on the pulley bolt right? I've heard and read that it is 150Nm+180°. Which is the right one? Thank you for your answer in advance!
@@Georg1979 There's two different values depending on if you have the newer bolt (with hollow bolt head) or the old one (flat head). The old bolt has the lower torque value and the newer bolt has the much higher value.
@@aden3113 Yes. You can still buy both. The older one is documented in the Haynes manual and it has a torque setting of 90Nm+90°. On the newer one however I only found one video where the guy says that it has a setting of 150Nm+180°. Which is quite a lot (it's an M14 bolt). In another video the guy doesn't tell the torque setting, but I guess it is still 150Nm, but he also clearly turns another 180° as well. In this video the mechanic only sets the 150Nm value. So... hm. I just don't want to break the bolt into drive shaft. I guess 150Nm+180° is the right value and it should be fine. I hope so.
@@Georg1979 In practice it is not necessary to torque it that hard, 150 Nm + 180 is extremely tight and you're likely to either round the bolt/socket or snap the bar. I torqued mine to around 150 Nm which as hard as I could comfortably do. There are no forces acting on the bolt that will loosen it, the crankshaft gear has a protrusion which slots into the pulley which prevents the pulley from freely spinning on the gear. As long as the bolt is tight it won't budge. If it makes you feel better, you can mark the pulley and bolt with a white marker to see if has moved but it is extremely unlikely. Also worth noting is that in the repair manual it's stated that you should lubricate the bolt before fitting, so make sure you pour some engine oil on the threads before you screw it in, it will make it easier to tighten harder and it will also make removal easier in the future next time you change the timing belt. You don't have to use loctite or any sealant at all when doing this job and it isn't called for in the manual either, just make sure you use a good torque wrench and torque all the bolts down properly (exception crankpulley bolt).
Thank you for your comment. Replacing the water pump without breaking the timing belt is not possible, it is recommended to replace the timing belt and water pump with a set. AUTODOC
![How to change timing belt kit and water pump on AUDI A4 (B7) [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HvMgxc0f4OM/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to change timing belt kit and water pump on AUDI A4 (B7) [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](/img/tr.png)
Auto doc is a. Great channel, they just need to invest in a mechanic who is willing to speak over the repairs they show.
Thank you for sharing your opinion!
Thank you! You should renew bolts as required in manuals
Very nice video tutorial. I have the same car and I was wondering how do they do this in service.(type 6L1 , 1.4 BXW). It was very interesting to watch,very useful, detailed and professional.
very good tutorial about changing time belt I have ever seen.
Thank you for your feedback!
We are glad to know this tutorial was useful to you.
Stay tuned with us!
Best regards,
Autodoc team!
@@autodocuk hello, i have a question. haynes and vw say that the primary belt timing belt tensioner should be positioned at 10 o'clock and then the belt installed starting at water pump, primary belt tension, crank sprocket and then finally the camshaft sprocket.
you fitted the timing belt tensioner last . does it really matter?
Very professional.Experience and a good tutor.much help full
Thank you for your feedback!
We are glad to know this tutorial was useful to you.
Stay tuned for more!
Best regards, Autodoc team!
Thanks for this... spot on !
What's the grease you use as a sealant for the water pump? And for the bolts, what does the sealant does exactly? Thank you for the precious video.
The link to the sealant we used is in the description below the video.
www.autodoc.co.uk/reinz/982546?RUclips&
Great video, good detail - I am a bit confused by the tensioner securing bolt torques quoted, I understand these are critical and quoted to be 20nM but your video shows 37nM
Thank you for your comment.
We understand that mistakes were made in the description, and in the future, we will try to avoid this.
AUTODOC
For the second tensioner to you go clockwise or anti clockwise
Both tensioners are adjusted in the same way. The tension rollers are eccentric. There are 2 holes in the center, one hole for fastening, the second for adjustment with a 6-sided key. You need to unscrew the locking bolt a little, and with the second 6-sided key, achieve alignment with the mark, if you turn it to the left, the eccentric will move the roller in the same direction, and vice versa. To tighten, you need to turn it towards the belt.
Is possible to replace the water pump with out disturbing the timing of the car.
What if the cog at 4:37 ended up skipping the belt and has now come out of sync with the rest of the timing stuff?
Thanks for your question! When performing a replacement, you need to check the position of all marks so that they are in the correct position, otherwise you will need an additional check of the engine and most likely a more expensive repair.
is there a video of the water pump for seat ibiza 1.9 axr as i think this a petrol ?
No, but you can watch more SEAT IBIZA 3 videos in this playlist -
ruclips.net/p/PLWep5LzT0sxnuHLAmzu_pvAwfCCOQPAhz
AUTODOC
Muito bom o trabalho ....e a limpeza desse motor, fica para quando?????
There is something i didn't quite understand, what is the purpose of marking the belt with white marker?
The belt is marked to correctly align the timing marks.
AUTODOC
i have this car last time i change it whas in 76000km now is 217000khm and i noticetd i miss it to change in 141000khm before ,i use the engine in no more 3500 rpm usualy less than 3000rpm generaly the manufacture tell to change to 75000khm but in all rpm? and if use the engine n low rpm in how many khm about you have + - khm statisticaly you have damage in the belts or beranigs or w pump ? i know if is damage is not only from the condtion of belt but the condtion of bearings, the factory in how many khm in how many rpms start the problems ?
Operating the engine in any operating range does not cause belt wear.
The belt is designed for mileage.
If you operate the engine under increased loads, then most likely something connected with the engine will fail, and not the belt.
AUTODOC
@@autodocukplease do a timing belt video for the 1.0 Lupo!
Hello!
Most of the torque values provided in this video are not coherent with the official repair manual provided by SEAT.
13:03 Both bolts holding on the water pump should be torqued to 20 Nm not 22 Nm
14:52 50 Nm not 34 Nm
15:16 50 Nm not 37 Nm
15:50 20 Nm not 37 Nm
16:57 20 Nm not 37 Nm
18:14 50 Nm not 70 Nm (also they should be replaced as they are torque-to-yield bolts)
18:39 30 Nm + 1/4 turn not 70 Nm (also they should be replaced as they are torque-to-yield bolts)
Yes, you're right, it will be good for us. Thank you for your consideration.
Hello! I have a question: Is the 150Nm on the pulley bolt right? I've heard and read that it is 150Nm+180°. Which is the right one? Thank you for your answer in advance!
@@Georg1979 There's two different values depending on if you have the newer bolt (with hollow bolt head) or the old one (flat head). The old bolt has the lower torque value and the newer bolt has the much higher value.
@@aden3113 Yes. You can still buy both. The older one is documented in the Haynes manual and it has a torque setting of 90Nm+90°. On the newer one however I only found one video where the guy says that it has a setting of 150Nm+180°. Which is quite a lot (it's an M14 bolt). In another video the guy doesn't tell the torque setting, but I guess it is still 150Nm, but he also clearly turns another 180° as well. In this video the mechanic only sets the 150Nm value. So... hm. I just don't want to break the bolt into drive shaft. I guess 150Nm+180° is the right value and it should be fine. I hope so.
@@Georg1979 In practice it is not necessary to torque it that hard, 150 Nm + 180 is extremely tight and you're likely to either round the bolt/socket or snap the bar. I torqued mine to around 150 Nm which as hard as I could comfortably do. There are no forces acting on the bolt that will loosen it, the crankshaft gear has a protrusion which slots into the pulley which prevents the pulley from freely spinning on the gear. As long as the bolt is tight it won't budge.
If it makes you feel better, you can mark the pulley and bolt with a white marker to see if has moved but it is extremely unlikely.
Also worth noting is that in the repair manual it's stated that you should lubricate the bolt before fitting, so make sure you pour some engine oil on the threads before you screw it in, it will make it easier to tighten harder and it will also make removal easier in the future next time you change the timing belt. You don't have to use loctite or any sealant at all when doing this job and it isn't called for in the manual either, just make sure you use a good torque wrench and torque all the bolts down properly (exception crankpulley bolt).
GOOD 👍👍👍👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾🖐🖐🖐
Great
jÁ AGORA UM SOBRE TROCA DO RETENTOR DO VOLANTE DO MOTOR, OUTRO SOBRE A TROCA DA EMBRAIAGEM.
Good
qUE FERRAMENTA É ESSA? PODE SERVIR MAS EXISTE UMA PRÓPRIA...
Especifique por favor o minuto exacto neste vídeo de qual ferramenta se refere.
Melhores cumprimentos
Grupo AUTODOC
belt manual gives 20 nm for tensioners.................
You are absolutely right, the correct torque is 20 NM.
Façam um vÍdeo . COMO LIMPAR UM MOTOR.
so hard
That's exactly what I thought.
SEAT is one of the cars brands that made complexes engines..so yes they're royal pain in the rear end to work on
😅😅😅😅
Couples de serrage faux 😂😂😂
Bonjour,
Couples de serrage corrects
Pompe à eau - 20 Nm
Galet tendeur - 25 Nm
Galet tendeur -50 Nm
Galet tendeur - 20 Nm
Support moteur - 50 Nm
Poulie de vilebrequin - 90 Nm + 90°
Merci de prendre le temps de laisser votre commentaire.
Bravo à vous
Is possible to replace the water pump with out disturbing the timing of the car.
Thank you for your comment.
Replacing the water pump without breaking the timing belt is not possible, it is recommended to replace the timing belt and water pump with a set.
AUTODOC