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Another great video, just as usual, you are spoiling us! Please bring 1M love to the channel :D also, the Quartz paint seem to be a quality product. Where do you get them from?
These restorations inspire me to restore my E30, while at same time discourages abit knowing i won’t be able to achieve the result as good as this :D anyone feel the same way? Anyway, thanks for all the videos, i learned a lot :)
Quick Tip At 3.15 regarding nut releasing - Prefer to use leverage rather than force. 1. Leverage significantly reduces the chances of rounding a nut or causing thread damage. By leverage I mean adding a hollow bar to your rachet , or spanner etc. 2. Leverage always reduces the stress on your wrist joint. I know we all shake these small things off but anyways. Thanks for another fantastic video
Fuel hose is not suitable for brake/clutch fluid. I suppose that you've checked the inner part of the cylinder for rust and pitting and change the piston. Great restoration job!
Brake/clutch hose/tubing also has rubber inside of them?.. In a matter of way it's the same type of hose ..So why are they not suitable for brake/clutch fluid @ChemaCT
@@Svensken8R Yes it's "rubber" but there are a lot of types of "rubber" depending on the fluid that run inside of them; for example, It's not the same a hose for oil that a hose for petrol, and there are two types of hoses for petrol, intended to be submerged on petrol and for external use.
I woke up to the notification of this new video, and with three projects to finish on my house it’s just the motivation I need to get them done and done right. Awesome as always! ✌️
I never thought that the pedals would have so many parts!! So nice to watch it to relax after a tiresome day... and as always, you did a explendid job!! Cheers from São Paulo, Brazil!!
Rubber Renew Tip There is special grease for rubber. The one I got is ruby red and smells kinda nice in an old memory way. Anyways: Clean & degrease your rubber part. Liberally administer the rubber grease on the part, rubbing it over with a soft toothbrush. Hang in a place that will get warm and cool. Like a boiler hoouse, or a glass house etc. Leave for a few days, or if you forget for weeks it doesnt matter really. Remove and clean the excess grease off using newspaper and various tools and techniches that you'll figure out easily. Rub down with a dedicated lint-free cloth or microfiber towel. Sometimes I just use gloves and don't mind the part remaining greasy a little bit. Obviously for pedals and grips thats not a good thing so do use the cloth and clean all surface grease off until the pedal / grip is slip-free. The heat/cool period allows the rubber to expand and contract and obsorb the rubber grease - rejuvinating itself. It is remarkable how a stiff old piece of rubber can becaome very flexible again. Note: The longer you do the heat/cool period, the more flexible the rubber becomes. So maybe keep a check on the piece as the days go by so you don't end up with a really floppy piece which may not then suit it's application.
You can get that blue house online from German part suppliers. When doing similar build as yours on my Corrado I was able to source meter of hose and used it on 3 or 4 VWs
Nice video. Coincidentally i restored mine RHD too few weeks back, there was tiny play at the bushings at the right angle lever inside the box and also near the servo rod, i replaced all with machined brass bushings, man now the pedals glide with almost no play. I also machined tiny brass bushings for the springs holes. All the best mate. Cheers
I gave a like as soon I got the notification, paused the video made a cup of coffee so I can fully enjoy this video..As normally I Do, cant wait to watch it
@@RestoreIt Thanks so much, for the videos, really makes my day, can I ask you, why sometimes you do etch primer and sometimes you don't, as I am not a paint expert, but willing to learn.
Thank you for the video! It's good to have this for reference in the future - my clutch pedal is just now getting a bit sticky. Cheers! Edit: please check the compatibility of the hose you replaced. Fuel hose doesn't work well with brake fluid 😉
Hello mister Restore. Allow me to help you a little bit with the zinc plating. I learned how to plate thanks to you and I bought my kit from Caswell Canada. I have perfected the technic and I can now yield astonishing results consistantly. I suggest the use of a rust removal bath, like a chemical that do the job for you and because of that, using a brush wheel after will make them shine a lot more. I live in Canada and I buy "Metal rescue" for remove light rust. This really was a game changer for me because as it deeply improved the quality of the prepped parts before the plating. I use all this with an ultrasonic cleaner because I can heat up the tank. Its an integrated feature with the ultrasonic cleaner. Perfect for cleaning parts, a lot less manual work for microscopic parts. No need to leave the parts in acid for more dans 10 seconds as any amount of time over 30 sec in the acid bath will alter the shine of the steel part. It all comes down to how shiny was the part after you brushed it with the wire wheel. Zinc bath should be around 25°C, no more. It's way better if you have a small submersible pump in the plating bath to agitate the solution. Be generous with the zinc brightener, but not too generous. I don't know why your yellow chromate solution looks so light, mine is much darker, but this is where it all comes together. I noticed in your video that the yellow chromate rubbs off when you manipulate the parts. It first depends on how was the condition of the part after the plating. The shinier it was, the longer lasting the yellow chromate will be. Now to get the deep Gold look, leave the part in the yellow chromate tank for 30 seconds or more, rinse and then dry it fast, yeah very fast with the use of compressed air under 75psi. There must be no water left on the part. Do NOT use heat gun. It ruins the whole thing. Yellow chromate cannot withstand heat, so baking it or heating it up will make it crack, peel and fall off, turns to dust, will turn to a brownish look. Now to get a gold with redish and greenish tint, leave the part in yellow chromate bath for less than 20 sec and then dry it fast again. The second you dry it, you'll see the magic happen. This is when the colors green and red mixes with the gold finish. They quickly appear as you dry the part. It's truly beautiful. The parts get so shiny, they almost have a mirror like finish in some cases. Since I do this, I can handle the parts right away and put them in the car. There is no peeling at all, the finish is just as durable as what you can find in hardware stores I got tons of pictures. I can now get those results every time, but it took me around a 100 hours to master this.
My pleasure. And if I may, at 15:35, this is the point where you must add some brightener, like 1/4 of a teespoon or until the shine improves because all the parts I see are dull. They should have a mirror finish straight out of the bath. This way, you won't need to brush them after they're plated. You can't brush a yellow chromate finish, can you? Therefore, you MUST check each part and their shine while you plate them, taking them out the solution periodically to inspect them and spot any dull spots on the parts.
I really enjoy your videos. I watch them thorowly every time, they are awesome. But I was thinking it would be nice to see a finished project soon! With some nice shots on the roads of spain, it would look cool :)
If you ever want to borrow any parts for restoration, please look no further, hell you could borrow the whole car if you like :D loving the e30 vids man, don't know how you find the time for all this work, keep it up man!!
Just to add.. as a alternative... seeing i personally i like the OEM KTL Bath coating on gaspedlas and its mounting frames.. VHT Chassis and rollbar paint (satin) . really does a splendid job to match that. and being epoxy. . looks allot like OEM just as a tip :)
You should break the bolt using a T bar or fixed arm. My brother used to fix loads ratchets where they had been used to break whatever you call that first bit. Those little pawl’s can’t take a lot of stress over and over again
As always very good video. The springs are replaced or restored ? Because they have a lifespan The spring fatigue worth some thought But for this application why not restore them Though the displacement of the spring is large, the load is low It's not easy to define the remaining lifespan
Life pro tip, if you’re ever cleaning your car and you can’t clean the pedals very well. Just take the rubber cover off (not on the accelerator, bc they don’t usually have rubber on them) I’ve been doing that for a while.
This is what I'm all about really. The cars actually took away from this sytle of videos but Rusty Nut Restorations is going to be just this style of vidoe. All coming soon :)
About the hose? Are you sure this hose is resistant to dot 3 or dot 4? And original is braided as it is close to the exhaust headers. And also the grommet for the clutch hose i think it is in reversed direction
You're not wrong Yasnick. I wanted to replace it in the video and so i used the only hose that I had at the time that would fit. I recommend Omaar changes this for an original. Cheers.
I noticed your clutch master cylinder has a metal ring on the end. I just purchased one from what was said to be an OEM manufacturer, and this ring is plastic. I wonder if I should return it and look for a better one?
Brilliant! This turned out great as usual. Are you doing anything in particular with this pedal box? You mentioned that you had already restored one previously.
Nice job but to make it seem more real next time, have an intro where you find it in a field you're ploughing and use your feet to hold some of the tools
Thanks! I'd say about 50 hours or so including the filming and editing but if I only had to do the resto. It could be done in two 8 hour days easy I think.
Thanks as always Ozzy. It's not going the best... The two rear quarters I need are being made right now and will then be shipped. The tail panel, skirts, and a few other smaller pieces are coming soonish. But it's all ground to a hault for the most part. I'm doing what I can to keep the episodes coming until the car is welded, painted and rebuilt by which point there will be too many episodes...something I can't wait for. I'm going to do some work on the BMW 1M Coupe to help me keep the videos coming... I know this isnt what people want but I have to keep the videos coming to keep everything going, its just the way my channel is on YT. Cheers dude.
@@RestoreIt OK, great to hear about the car, I know, some time everything is so slow, but keep going, move forward mate. You have a really cool content.
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Another great video, just as usual, you are spoiling us! Please bring 1M love to the channel :D also, the Quartz paint seem to be a quality product. Where do you get them from?
when u wan´t to sleep, this is the best kind of videos :D
Enjoy Diamant!
Lol
I always fall asleep when i watch restoring videos but these from restore it are too interesting to fall asleep :D
I relate to much
This is good but barber/grooming the best
These restorations inspire me to restore my E30, while at same time discourages abit knowing i won’t be able to achieve the result as good as this :D anyone feel the same way?
Anyway, thanks for all the videos, i learned a lot :)
I love that view of all the pieces laid out side by side. That's like the money shot for these kind of videos.
Quick Tip
At 3.15 regarding nut releasing - Prefer to use leverage rather than force.
1. Leverage significantly reduces the chances of rounding a nut or causing thread damage.
By leverage I mean adding a hollow bar to your rachet , or spanner etc.
2. Leverage always reduces the stress on your wrist joint.
I know we all shake these small things off but anyways.
Thanks for another fantastic video
Fuel hose is not suitable for brake/clutch fluid. I suppose that you've checked the inner part of the cylinder for rust and pitting and change the piston. Great restoration job!
The hose was just for the video and I did indeed make sure it was good inside. Cheers!
Brake/clutch hose/tubing also has rubber inside of them?.. In a matter of way it's the same type of hose ..So why are they not suitable for brake/clutch fluid @ChemaCT
..Or am i'm totally out of it here?!
@@Svensken8R Yes it's "rubber" but there are a lot of types of "rubber" depending on the fluid that run inside of them; for example, It's not the same a hose for oil that a hose for petrol, and there are two types of hoses for petrol, intended to be submerged on petrol and for external use.
@@chemact1285 Aa okey. Cause I had no idea. Thanks for the enlightenment my dude!"
I woke up to the notification of this new video, and with three projects to finish on my house it’s just the motivation I need to get them done and done right. Awesome as always! ✌️
Thank you Alan!
Love watching your vids, so calming. You are very skilled.
Thank you Alan, glad you enjoy them
Compadre, eres muy habil.
Cuando comience a restaurar mi e30 del 80 veré todos tus videos. Muy buenos!
Thank you! And good luck with it!
I’m so impressed with the detail on your projects.great video 😎😎👍👍
Thank you, Tom! Cheers! 👍
It’s always interesting to get glimpses of you in the videos and how you’ve changed slightly each time as you’ve grown
My biggest reason for watching this man's videos is his ability to not break things when taking them apart. I hope I get to his level one day.
Next video: parts washer restoration :D
Haha one day...
Best RUclips Chanel for E30 restauration, big tnx from Algeria
Thanks Salah!
i like what you do with this E30.. the small details really do matter on propepr rebuilds :)
Cheers again, Albert. I appreciate your comments!
You put in bushings wrong way at 20:45 :P Small details man! :D But looks awesome, keep it up! :)
Haha cheers Karolis, will sort this!
All the rust would keep me happy with a wire wheel for a few hours
So fun! haha.
Great Job! Thanks for show us. ¡Gran trabajo! Gracias por mostrárnoslo.
You are my best source of inspiration.
Big like from EGYPT❤️✔️
Thank you Hussam thanks very kind of you to say.
Good work! Know mine won’t turn out as well as this, your attention to detail is amazing!
Всегда с удовольствием смотрю Ваши ролики! Великолепная работа!
Большое вам спасибо: D Я рад, что они вам нравятся. Впереди еще много всего :)
@@RestoreIt Буду ждать. Увлекательный просмотр!)) Супер!!!
Great work as always, your videos are very enjoyable!
Thank you Ivo!
I never thought that the pedals would have so many parts!! So nice to watch it to relax after a tiresome day... and as always, you did a explendid job!! Cheers from São Paulo, Brazil!!
Very satisfying. Now its too nice to be hidden away under the dash!!
It’s been an absolute joy following you on your journey with this car and your channel. Well done, mate.
This one has such an ASMR vibe to it
Maybe I should make an ASMR channel haha
Content is always relaxing and beautiful to watch
Thank you :)
Best restoration channel on RUclips.
Thank you Naser! Too kind.
Fantastic video as always Steve! Amazing restoration! Can't wait to put the pedals back in the car. If you need anything else feel free to shout me.
Thanks Omaar! I will of course hit you up my man.
Brilliant attention to detail. Did notice at 20.49 you installed the guides in the wrong way.
Another outstanding video. 10/10❤️❤️
Cheers Will! 👍
There are really no words to explain how I feel when I see your wonderful work and accuracy. Cheers man n have a good luck 🍀 👍 💯 thumbs-up
Thank you Sony! Always good to see you here 👍👍
Rubber Renew Tip
There is special grease for rubber.
The one I got is ruby red and smells kinda nice in an old memory way.
Anyways:
Clean & degrease your rubber part.
Liberally administer the rubber grease on the part, rubbing it over with a soft toothbrush.
Hang in a place that will get warm and cool.
Like a boiler hoouse, or a glass house etc.
Leave for a few days, or if you forget for weeks it doesnt matter really.
Remove and clean the excess grease off using newspaper and various tools and techniches that you'll figure out easily.
Rub down with a dedicated lint-free cloth or microfiber towel.
Sometimes I just use gloves and don't mind the part remaining greasy a little bit.
Obviously for pedals and grips thats not a good thing so do use the cloth and clean all surface grease off until the pedal / grip is slip-free.
The heat/cool period allows the rubber to expand and contract and obsorb the rubber grease - rejuvinating itself.
It is remarkable how a stiff old piece of rubber can becaome very flexible again.
Note: The longer you do the heat/cool period, the more flexible the rubber becomes.
So maybe keep a check on the piece as the days go by so you don't end up with a really floppy piece which may not then suit it's application.
How the hell to give dislike on this? This guy has the best restoration channel from all youtube.
Oh too kind cst! Thank you!
Restore It the cars that you restore it they are also for sale?
Waiting hopefully for the final build of the entire car!
It will come one day :D
Love these videos! Gave me so much more confidence for when I'm doing mine!
Cheers Joe, I'm glad to read this!
Definitely I enjoyed the build! Keep up the good work
Excellent job!
Thank you :D
Oh boy! a new video!
Thanks for watching Molakito!
You can get that blue house online from German part suppliers. When doing similar build as yours on my Corrado I was able to source meter of hose and used it on 3 or 4 VWs
er zitten 2 plastic (geel/wit) bussen met kraag verkeerd om. de kraag moet aan de binnenkant anders lopen je bussen eruit. prachtig is de rest.
Je bent niet fout! Bedankt voor het laten weten en bedankt voor het kijken :)
Nice video. Coincidentally i restored mine RHD too few weeks back, there was tiny play at the bushings at the right angle lever inside the box and also near the servo rod, i replaced all with machined brass bushings, man now the pedals glide with almost no play. I also machined tiny brass bushings for the springs holes. All the best mate. Cheers
Nice work Yasnick. I can't wait to get myself a milling machine and lathe! Cheers. .
Level of detail is unreal! Keep up the vids.
That pedal box got a more thorough paint job than most projects out there
Ich freue mich immer auf eine neue Folge.
Ich freue mich das zu hören. danke fürs zuschauen, noch viel mehr :)
Вижу видео, ставлю лайк сразу же! Потому что знаю, ты все сделаешь красиво и правильно!
I remembering spraying WD-40 at the joints of the pedals so every time I revved, I got a more sharp response of the engine in an auto e30
Haha I too have done this. Works a treat. 10hp+ easy.
Clever lad well done great video
Thanks Lee! 👍
Excellent restoration
Thank you dude!
Watching from malaysia 🥰😊
Cool :D thank you!
I gave a like as soon I got the notification, paused the video made a cup of coffee so I can fully enjoy this video..As normally I Do, cant wait to watch it
Big thanks as always Coolissim. Always good to see you here my man.
@@RestoreIt Thanks so much, for the videos, really makes my day, can I ask you, why sometimes you do etch primer and sometimes you don't, as I am not a paint expert, but willing to learn.
Very impressive!
Loving the regular schedule dude. Always look forward to a video from you. 👍
Thanks Andrew. The schedule will double by the end of next year, I have some big plans for both channels. Thanks dude.
@@RestoreIt awesome. Can't wait
@Dr. Michael Johnson Jr exactly that, always happy to see him pop up with a new video
Thank you for the video! It's good to have this for reference in the future - my clutch pedal is just now getting a bit sticky.
Cheers!
Edit: please check the compatibility of the hose you replaced. Fuel hose doesn't work well with brake fluid 😉
My pleasure, cheers Jeff!
Hello mister Restore. Allow me to help you a little bit with the zinc plating. I learned how to plate thanks to you and I bought my kit from Caswell Canada. I have perfected the technic and I can now yield astonishing results consistantly.
I suggest the use of a rust removal bath, like a chemical that do the job for you and because of that, using a brush wheel after will make them shine a lot more. I live in Canada and I buy "Metal rescue" for remove light rust. This really was a game changer for me because as it deeply improved the quality of the prepped parts before the plating. I use all this with an ultrasonic cleaner because I can heat up the tank. Its an integrated feature with the ultrasonic cleaner. Perfect for cleaning parts, a lot less manual work for microscopic parts.
No need to leave the parts in acid for more dans 10 seconds as any amount of time over 30 sec in the acid bath will alter the shine of the steel part. It all comes down to how shiny was the part after you brushed it with the wire wheel.
Zinc bath should be around 25°C, no more. It's way better if you have a small submersible pump in the plating bath to agitate the solution.
Be generous with the zinc brightener, but not too generous.
I don't know why your yellow chromate solution looks so light, mine is much darker, but this is where it all comes together.
I noticed in your video that the yellow chromate rubbs off when you manipulate the parts. It first depends on how was the condition of the part after the plating. The shinier it was, the longer lasting the yellow chromate will be.
Now to get the deep Gold look, leave the part in the yellow chromate tank for 30 seconds or more, rinse and then dry it fast, yeah very fast with the use of compressed air under 75psi. There must be no water left on the part. Do NOT use heat gun. It ruins the whole thing. Yellow chromate cannot withstand heat, so baking it or heating it up will make it crack, peel and fall off, turns to dust, will turn to a brownish look.
Now to get a gold with redish and greenish tint, leave the part in yellow chromate bath for less than 20 sec and then dry it fast again. The second you dry it, you'll see the magic happen. This is when the colors green and red mixes with the gold finish. They quickly appear as you dry the part. It's truly beautiful.
The parts get so shiny, they almost have a mirror like finish in some cases.
Since I do this, I can handle the parts right away and put them in the car. There is no peeling at all, the finish is just as durable as what you can find in hardware stores
I got tons of pictures. I can now get those results every time, but it took me around a 100 hours to master this.
You are a legend. Thank you!
My pleasure. And if I may, at 15:35, this is the point where you must add some brightener, like 1/4 of a teespoon or until the shine improves because all the parts I see are dull. They should have a mirror finish straight out of the bath. This way, you won't need to brush them after they're plated. You can't brush a yellow chromate finish, can you? Therefore, you MUST check each part and their shine while you plate them, taking them out the solution periodically to inspect them and spot any dull spots on the parts.
Hey dude. I just finished plating for the first time with my new zinc kit... Best results of my life! Thanks a lot once again.... So so good!
@@RestoreIt You went in the comments to find where I commented your video abouy the plating process and reply to my message. You're amazing!
Can you pleaaaase make a video about how you keep the parts organized and keep track of the assembly?
С меня лайк и комент, спасибо огромнейшее за видео
Большое вам спасибо: D Я рад, что они вам нравятся.
Awesome as usual.
...GOOD ONE, NICE JOB, STAY SAFE..
Thank you Bob, you too.
Класс! Просто супер результат 👍
I really enjoy your videos. I watch them thorowly every time, they are awesome. But I was thinking it would be nice to see a finished project soon! With some nice shots on the roads of spain, it would look cool :)
Good Work Sgt
Love to see the Wilko Pliers all the way over there in Spain😂
haha... quaility tools right there...
Very very good
Thank you!
😍sois los mejores!
Gracias!
Brotha, useless to say, u r SICK 😂
I could hear the clutch break squeak from mutted speakers when I looked at that pedal box
If you ever want to borrow any parts for restoration, please look no further, hell you could borrow the whole car if you like :D loving the e30 vids man, don't know how you find the time for all this work, keep it up man!!
I might just hit you up in the future you never know :D Thanks dude!
Just to add.. as a alternative... seeing i personally i like the OEM KTL Bath coating on gaspedlas and its mounting frames.. VHT Chassis and rollbar paint (satin) . really does a splendid job to match that. and being epoxy. . looks allot like OEM just as a tip :)
Thank you Albert I will save this comment now and talk to my paint guy. I need it. 👍👍
You should break the bolt using a T bar or fixed arm. My brother used to fix loads ratchets where they had been used to break whatever you call that first bit.
Those little pawl’s can’t take a lot of stress over and over again
You're not wrong dude, I have a few broken ratches and am yet to learn my lesson haha. I'll try and keep it in mind for next time.
Soothing video
Glad to hear it Panos
Complimenti, ottimo lavoro
Thank you!
Ah yes, a great notification to wake up and see!
Cheers Nayte!
Me gustaria llevarte mi ford del año 97.. muy buen trabajo. 😎👌🍺
As always very good video.
The springs are replaced or restored ?
Because they have a lifespan
The spring fatigue worth some thought
But for this application why not restore them
Though the displacement of the spring is large, the load is low
It's not easy to define the remaining lifespan
If I had fast shipping they would have been replaced and ultimately should be before it's installed into the car, yes, i agree :)
Life pro tip, if you’re ever cleaning your car and you can’t clean the pedals very well. Just take the rubber cover off (not on the accelerator, bc they don’t usually have rubber on them) I’ve been doing that for a while.
Cheers Joey!
Excellent job as always lol I think you use your Dremel as much as I do. It's definitely in my top 5 favourite tools!👍☺️
If that hose has brake fluid in it you should use heater hose/coolant hose, fuel hose is not compatible with brake fluid and will degrade.
Yes that was the wrong hose I just wanted it replaced for the video and thats all I had cheers
Unless that fuel hose is rated for hydraulic oil, which most fuel line is not, it’ll be destroyed in short order.
das ist good shit
Cheers boi
like in good old times) like this sort of video
This is what I'm all about really. The cars actually took away from this sytle of videos but Rusty Nut Restorations is going to be just this style of vidoe. All coming soon :)
About the hose? Are you sure this hose is resistant to dot 3 or dot 4? And original is braided as it is close to the exhaust headers. And also the grommet for the clutch hose i think it is in reversed direction
You're not wrong Yasnick. I wanted to replace it in the video and so i used the only hose that I had at the time that would fit. I recommend Omaar changes this for an original. Cheers.
My english is very poor but you mean "Shot Blasting" no? At cap.4. Nice video. Greetings from Brasil.
I imagine it works very smooth compared to the old state.
Indeed it does, thanks memories
Педаль газа и накладки еще доступны к заказу!
Nice...👍.
Why the brake pedal has that humungus rod?
I noticed your clutch master cylinder has a metal ring on the end. I just purchased one from what was said to be an OEM manufacturer, and this ring is plastic. I wonder if I should return it and look for a better one?
Brilliant! This turned out great as usual. Are you doing anything in particular with this pedal box? You mentioned that you had already restored one previously.
good job video bro
Thanks dude
Why the "silicon remover"? Why not acetone or IPA? What sort of silicon-based residue are you trying to wipe out?
Thats just what its called it pretty much removes everything
Hi bro 👋👋👋 good to see you 🤝🤝🤝 you’re really good at restoring 👍👍👍👌🏽 gun content 💣✌🏻🇷🇺
Hey my dude! Thanks man appreciate it and the comment! 👍
nice job...
Cheers vincent!
Nice job but to make it seem more real next time, have an intro where you find it in a field you're ploughing and use your feet to hold some of the tools
Great as usual. How many total hours did this take?
Thanks! I'd say about 50 hours or so including the filming and editing but if I only had to do the resto. It could be done in two 8 hour days easy I think.
this might be a bit of a stretch here but do you think you could tell us a bit how the thing works before you restore it?
Sorry Sandy! I normally do. This time I had run out of time to add such details.
By the time he's finished this car, the first thing that was restored will be ready for a re-restoration🤯
Looking good, but, how is the main part of this project going on. How is the car, any progress? I hope everything is well?
Thanks as always Ozzy. It's not going the best... The two rear quarters I need are being made right now and will then be shipped. The tail panel, skirts, and a few other smaller pieces are coming soonish. But it's all ground to a hault for the most part. I'm doing what I can to keep the episodes coming until the car is welded, painted and rebuilt by which point there will be too many episodes...something I can't wait for. I'm going to do some work on the BMW 1M Coupe to help me keep the videos coming... I know this isnt what people want but I have to keep the videos coming to keep everything going, its just the way my channel is on YT. Cheers dude.
@@RestoreIt OK, great to hear about the car, I know, some time everything is so slow, but keep going, move forward mate. You have a really cool content.
No kill like overkill
Awesome job. Hey, can you do you restore an old man? Just asking for a friend...
Bring him into the workshop and I'll see what I can do. haha cheers Molding.