PLEASE DELETE THIS VIDEO.... you will never adjust or touch the TPS sensor. Japanese engineers have this set DUMMY! That's why those bolts are not screwable.
No. That's not required otherwise they wouldn't sell independent TPS's. That really wouldn't be cost effective. Think of all the Honda's in the world with aftermarket throttle bodies with not a single TPS already attached. Do you really think they have a hard time adjusting those? This method works perfectly fine.
Tip for anyone adjusting their throttle to make it as smooth as possible. Do not adjust wide open throttle voltage. Yes it's supposed to be 4.5v but if you get this perfect your closed throttle voltage will be off and your throttle will be jerky. Get closed throttle to a perfect .5v and you're done. When you're wide open throttle the ecu is using the map sensor anyway so there's no point in getting it perfect and messing up closed voltage. That tool you made is awesome, I'm going to make a cleaner version as I adjust TPS frequently.
Thanks, yours seems like a good advise. Does this applies to every fuel injection systems? I have a Honda cb1300, calibrated my TPS to the full throttle, and idle is about 0.7 volt. Throttle is a bit jerky at low rpm, maybe your are right about tuning at closed throttle.Should try it.
Jon i just put a skunk2 alpha 70mm tb and a skunk2 pro intake on my b20b swapped crx after taking the tps and putting it on the new tb no matter how a turn the tps it wont go above .15v closed and 3.28 at WOT. ive also tried another tps and same thing the previous owner did the swap and the harness conversion im just stumped though because it was running fine till i swapped everything
Great video! 👍🏻 i have taken out my throttle body to clean it, i have replaced the gasket and after putting everything back i get this code 7. I haven't touched the tps at all... thank a lot ps, the car is a 92 prelude f20a4 engine.
john my man coming through again making another great video. just so happens i needed to learn how to do this. Thanks for all you do for the honda community.
Just. AWESOME. any time I have an issue with my 91 EF, I come to your channel and you help me get thru it. Thank you for putting these videos up for the old school honda community! Congrats on the new garage and all the RUclips success, do you take any of the D series toys out to the track? If there's a video of that i haven't seen it. I'm slowly prepping my ef for autocross. I have the original d15b2 with an mpfi conversion, 1999 d16y5 intake manifold, I also have the d16y5 at home waiting for the old d15 to throw in the towel. Thank you again for all the content!
Much appreciated, glad to always help! You've missed out, I raced a sohc supercharged d16 this last year for a few events. ruclips.net/video/hafkgoqUJI0/видео.html
Hi guys so i have an 08 civic and i was messing with my cold air intake.....now i have multiple symptoms... Engine accelerating on its own while in drive bad shifts slight overheating.....a maf code that isn't accurate.....i replaced it 3 times..............( i didn't really move much any suggestions?? And lower and rougher idle............
Love your videos man!!! Great info!!! I'm a proud owner of a 2000 crv too. Love it. Anyways i just adjusted my tps and closed i get.52 and wot 4.6. Is that ok??? And while i had the throttle body off i ran down the fast idler valve. Was just wondering your thoughts on that if you think that is ok. Thanks
for public interest, if you change the TPS and just eyebalL the voltage, your car WILL BE STUCK IN PARK AND YOU HAVE TO USE THE KEY RELEASE! ARRRRRGGGHHHH!!! But if you do as GBH has shown,it will shift out of park normally. SSSwweeeeeet!
0.50V IDLE - 4.50Volts WOT. 5V Supply All B/D Series 3-Pin TPS set procedure. Apply +/- voltage to two wires, read voltage from 3rd wire. KOEO. Adjust TPS as needed.
Really like the jjumper harness. Was just thinking about making one today while I was surfing the tube. I basically have to have one so I don't mess with my rywire harness. Also, you install, or have any videos on installing AEM or aftermarket ECT sensor? Trying to find location. I'm wondering if I can install where oem is and use the blue wire to tap into the ecu with hondata. Thanks from San Antonio.
Got an engine with no tb so i found a stock ex one in my parts bin. I kept getting 0.01 to 3.2v on my tps. Off the car it was correct- took forever to figure out it was the throttle body itself! The return spring has worn and is no longer tight enough to maintain the correct voltages. I wish this spring was replaceable but its not. Nobody makes a stock 60mm tb anymore except whats left at Honda stores for $350. Junkyard parts will probably fair no better. The smallest cheapo tb is 68mm! Ecu will not like that or will it??
About that TPS testing plug you created, I’m wanting to create one like that myself. I’m not following how exactly that works. You plug it into the TPS sensor you want to test, use the alligator clips for the multimeter you hook up to, but what and how do you hook up the other three wires too without splicing into the harness?
If you see in the video, all 3 wires now have the metal leads on the end. I slide those right back into the original TPS plug to create the connection.
Hi thanks for the video. I have a 02 Acura tl type s with the main and sub throttles. I did a cleaning of both and removed the tps on the sub throttle, not knowing what it was, to clean. Once i saw it was not something I needed to clean i screwed it back on. I then got a 94-1 and vsa and traction control light with high idle. I also got a p0505 code, which was corrected with replacing the iacv. The acura dealership states i still have the tsc light on which they said can only be the valve or a short. Im pretty certain its not a short or problem with the wiring as i did the work myself. Could it be that i need to adjust it as you do in the video. My autel scanner has the sub throttle idling very high with the live data. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
@@GarageBuiltHondas yeah I couldn't get 4.5 volts open and was worried until I saw yours which was similar. Just a little off. My cars issue has been fixed thank god! Shes running smooth and powerful now! :)
I got a 95 civic dx When I go to the yellow wire I get 5.02 but on the red I get 0.2 closed and open 2.something and I can’t get any higher than that.. Why is that ?
Hey man i just fixed my civic 91 change gas pump and head gasket but when I accelerate just a little at low revs the car drowns out a lil & if I accelerate hard works well do you think I have to adjust the throttle body?
Not sure if you'll see this or not but I just wanted to know if your bswap was done with a civic si or an ex? I'm helping with a swap on a 91 si and everyone's telling me I need to do the dpfi to mpfi conversion and I'm telling them all no I don't. Having a helping comment from. You would go along way
So if I don’t have what u made to check the volts would I just have to check but direct wire contact ? Or how would that work ? If not can I just replace it and if I did replace it would I still have to check the specs
Garage Built Hondas hey so I'm having trouble with my turbo EF. built b18b bottom b16a head car won't rev past 2500rpm. I bought a new tps sensor and installed today if it's above .5v at closed will this cause the issue I'm having I got pissed and went inside gonna try to fine tune it tomorrow need the car running properly by Tuesday to have it dyno tuned
Garage Built Hondas no at first I have a code 9 so I changed the distributor and cleared that up. before I changed the distributor or started to do that so I thought once I fixed the code 9 it would go away. so then my tuner suggested that the tps was causing the issue I changed it last night but it still won't Rev past 2500 rpm.
I have a jdm d15b vtec swapped into my 91 RT wagon which is a mpfi. I cant get my tpa to calibrate. When i open to wot, the numbers get way too high and wont register. Any ideas on why?? Ive been searching for weeks on every thread i can. Please help
I used two tps and they both wouldn’t adjust past .22. The 2nd one I used didn’t move at all. Wide open like 3.5... are they both bad? It was fine before I swapped my engine same tps
Great videos, thanks. We have an '88 CRX non si model. At the end of the video you show a TPS with plug facing left, that's ours! So, what do we do then? switch the outside wires?
Been trying to calibrate the TPS. Cannot set it at .5 volt. The lowest voltage I get is 1.6 volt with the throttle fully closed. Fully opened, the reading is over 5 volts. I think I bought myself some troubles. Looks like the alternator has an issue too at high speed. Battery warning light blinking. Transmission shifts at over 3000 rpm...when it does. And downshifting to first gear is harsh. Oh my. 😟
what if the voltage is change when the engine is start example if my voltage in of engine is .73 in close position and when engine start the voltage is up in .86-87 is that normal or i need to change my tps
hello. i wounder if you could help me out i bought a new tps sensor for a 95 accord and im getting 5 volts closed and 7 volts open will this still work or will something bad happen ?
Thank you for your video! Very informative! When de-enrgized mine appears to be about 1/16 of an inch open. Is that normal? Or should it be fully closed?
I have a 93 integra ls, which is the same manifold and throttle body on your car, will my tps readings need to be the same as yours are? Planning on installing a new intake manifold, throttle body and tps this weekend and want to make sure before I do it.
@@GarageBuiltHondas awesome, thanks man, I appreciate it. Contemplating maybe doing videos of the progress of my car, there isn't a lot of da hatchbacks on youtube with guides on how to do stuff
I’ve got a 2000 Honda Civic Cp ex, I can’t get anything lower than an 8.3 on the vehicle and I’ve tried grounding it on the negative post and have tried connecting it to the black and yellow wire. My car isles high and won’t go anything higher than 2.3k rpm it bogs down when I do any suggestions?
Would a bad tps gasket cause the vehicle to die on a cold start? It only happens when cold and if I spray some brake clean around the tps it makes the idle change.. Just wondering if you've ever run into that issue before, I should probably add that this is on a dual point style
+Caspar Vester Thanks Caspar! I haven't had the opportunity yet! I'd love to have one and learn how to do the swap into an EF. Possibly one day, but nothing immediately planned.
I'm currently attempting this, but those damn screws are very tight. Even using the dremel and screwdriver method, they just won't budge. Think I need to use an impact driver like you did?
What are those bits at the end of that harness you made up called ? I'd like to buy some to make a harness like this. The parts that are pushed into the original parts. The ones after the alligator clips
I gotta check engine light on my 97 prelude and got a code of 45. my car idle when starting up is grrr ruuu grrr so I cleaned my aivc (twice) still same issue. I bought a tps and of course it's installed using rivets. once car is warmed up it runs fine but occasionally it won't accelerate then kicks in. Am I going into the right direction in replacing this sensor? idk it was adjustable, simply just a sensor. I seen you break the rivets loose by creating a slot and twisting to left but will it tighten back up by just going right? thought rivets were threadless?
The throttle body is threaded. You can reuse the old hardware if it's still in good enough shape. I usually replace them. Is your code 45 for the TPS? If it is, then this could fix your weird idle issue. The TPS can cause an erratic idld if it's not working properly.
@@GarageBuiltHondas I try. I'f I let it be a .49v close 4.18 WOT it giving me an idle surge drop up and down 200prpm to 1000prm. If I tap TPS a bit it stop surfing but idles at 2000rpm flat. Clean out iacv and will be flushing coolant next. Any other suggestions?
Hey question, I have a 97 Acura cl and Lately it’s been having issues starting, now I thought it could’ve been bad gas or something along those lines but I put in the cleaner and put premium gas in the car and it still doesn’t wanna start right, the battery, and starter are good, I was wondering to see if this would help because my rpms are also not always at a set spot and will jump a lil sum times I really couldn’t find much on the issues beside the TPS also it seems to do it after the car has been running like if it sat overnight it would start right up, but if I drove like an hr + than leave it for like 20 minutes it does this.
Yes I am. I don't work on customer cars currently. My life/work are really busy for me during this time of year. What exactly do you need done? *Edit* what kind of car?
is it okay to remove the tps from the oem throttle body? my tb needs replacing but the after market one i have needs both sensors to be put on the new throttle body and the tps looks revited.
hey bro.....my tps will only let the vehicle rev out close to properly when the voltage is 0.7v closed!...when i set it at 0.45v closed,it seems to go in limp mode and bog out at 3500 rpm. what you think could be wrong?
sorry...lol that is how we talk in jamaica...but when i set my tps at 0.45 to 0.50v with the throttle plate closed, it bogs when i raise the rpms at 3500. its like i cant raise the rpms smoothly unless i set it at 0.70v closed
Jamauto tech Na, you're good! It just didn't compute in my head when I read it. Was your car running fine before adjusting it? It's showing .70 closed, and is it 4.70 at WOT?
i have a '00 civic coupe with a d15b and it has a tps low input code. there would be uneven idles and constant jerking of the car when i'm driving so the mechanic i usually go to replaced the tps sensor. afterwards, it was driving fine but i still noticed a little bit of jerking while driving and it eventually went back to before so i brought it to the mechanic again. he calibrated the voltages with the multimeter and a few days later, it's back to uneven idles and jerking while driving. i'm not sure if i should go back to the mechanic or look for a new one. the code still reads as tps low input. what do you think is the problem?
I got a 96 civic ex upgraded intake and throttle body was 64mm stock OEM upgrade to a 70mm alpha body that was the smallest I could find anyway I got my meter set to DC volts 20 and key on position and negative on batter and my red lead on my red wire (middle of the three) and I’m getting 0.00 on bare wire but when I touch red lead off of the rubber coating for wire it picks up 1.00 something flops around does this indicate I have a wiring issue? Because if so why didn’t tit mess with my last throttle body
Sometimes, when changing from 1st to 2nd and giving a 5 or 10% throttle, the engine would rev up and down unless I give it more throttle, SOMETIMES. Could this be lack of calibration or did it get busted? It was one of the things the mechanic changed (supposedly)
Thanks for the video! I replaced the oem tps because it had a dead spot. I replaced it with a known good oem but I cannot get it to adjust spot on. To get wot to 4.50 I have to adjust closed to .70. If I adjust closed to .50 then 4.30 at wot is my best. I split the difference and left it at .61 closed and 4.43 wot. Should I shoot for the best closed reading or the best wot reading? Or is splitting the difference ok?
I made the same diy "TPS splice connector" I even made an extra connector with a male USB to feed constant 5 volts so I don't have to turn the key on. Lol TPS cable was for k series. Little space to calibrate :(
My husband hadden vladamir 3rd and I have a question can a mpfi throttle body be used for a dpfi set up because my husband cracked the connection to what we both think is a Map sensor at the rear of the dpfi throttle body and is a difficult part to locate and replace as well as a complete throttle body assembly unit....please help with any suggestion also we replaced the coolant temp sensor but the connector on the wire harness cracked and trying to locate a replacement pigtail
No, the TB is completely different on the dpfi setup. It's an oddball. The sensors can be bought brand new, that's the only way to fix a broken connection on them.
Could the tps be causing my car to idle high? I have the tps code and map code but the map sensor I replaced but still reading the code. Could a bad tps trigger the map sensor?
Need help first time doing this but I have a 92 civic vx hatchback the throttle body is much smaller I bought an ek arm intake which is alot more wide open then the eg one can I just swap out the ek throttle body to my eg which they just bolt right on ?
@@GarageBuiltHondas thanks for the response but sadly the ek throttle body is much wider so I wasnt able to just bolt it right up so now I think my option is to either try finding the ex manifold n see if theres is bigger or just go buy an intake for the 1.5 leter intake
What year are your Tps. And are all Honda tps adjustable. I have a rough idle or stall at 1500 rpms the nose every time. I have tried everything else. I have no check engine light
Your TPS is adjustable on your car. You've done the basic maintenance? Plugs, wires, fuel filter, distributor all in good condition and replaced sometime between 1999 and now?
David Valentine If it was my car my guess would be something with the intake manifold. Possibly a sensor or injector that needs cleaning. Ever change the fuel filter? What about the IACV?
This is an old video but I was wondering if you could help me. My tps output signal is very low varying between 0.05 to 0.08 at Closed throttle and it doesn't change when I open up the throttle. Ive checked and I'm getting 5 volts on the positive and negative wires. So would that mean my tps has gone bad? It's also fairly new and was working. If not then any other ideas you might have would be much appreciated.
Do you have another one you could check also? If it's giving you those readings it almost sounds like it is faulty. You're multimeter is setup correctly and all connections fine?
Garage Built Hondas thank you for responding and I do but it's one I randomly found in my box of bolts and things. Its prbly faulty as well, because it reads exactly the same. Yup the multimeter and all connections are as good as can be. So it's most likely faulty tps then
You know, head to the auto parts store and buy one, come home and test it out. If it's still giving you the same reading then something else is wrong and you can take the TPS right back and get your refund. 😀
Garage Built Hondas after putting it back on with the above measurements the code cleared and the threw up a p1106 baro curcut 1 of 2 code both the same
Sometimes when I’ve driving my car (92 accord coupe EX 5 speed) it’ll bog and almost want to die. If I give it more gas or downshift it’s fine. I’m not getting a CEL either. Would this be the TPS? I’ve replaced the entire fuel system (car is a project and was sitting for a few years) new distributor, new EGR valve, new black box and MAP sensor. The car would seemingly go into a limp mode with no CEL when I first bought it (it’s why I bought it) and wouldn’t rev past 3-4K rpm. The fuel system was bad so new pump, filter and injectors remedied a lot of its running issues. Then my oil light would come on so I just had a new pump put in and timing belt and water pump and the accompanying gaskets and seals. I fear that when picking the car up tomorrow it’ll still have the same driving issue. The previous owner (a mechanic that saved it from sitting) thought since the oil pump was going bad it wasn’t supplying enough pressure and forcing the engine into a limp mode of sorts. But there’s no CEL. My final guess will be the TPS if the issue is still present when I drive it home tomorrow. I have a DMM so I can test it and I’m prepared to buy a new TPS and install it but I want to get a second opinion before doing so.
@@GarageBuiltHondas so that issue, was bad gas in tank. Fresh fuel and sea foam in the tank and it’s fine. The issue that is now the only issue, is no much power above 4K Rpms. Just feel like the car is not making much or any power up there. Below 4K is fine. On an extended drive I got the low oil pressure warning light and the car fell flat on its face and would not rev. Upon restarting it was fine. It’s parked for now. I’ve replaced the oil pump, water pump, timing belt, and cam seal. What would cause low oil pressure like this? I am taking a wild guess and assuming the low oil pressure has a lot to do with its current drive ability. The engine, is not knocking or even tapping. It sounds really quiet at idle. It just turned over 200k miles.
@@JA_S_ON I chased that issue forever. I had a rusted out gas tank that was contaminating my fuel system. I finally changed everything myself instead of paying a shop and fixed the issue. Been fine all year.
Can the tps cause slight rpm hunt at 1500 rpm down 100 rpm to 1400 rpm and sorta be stuck in that small loop until I give it more gas or let up on the gas? This only happens at a slight pressing down of the gas pedal and keeping it that consistent speed
Garage Built Hondas no cels that I am aware of, if I press on gas and hold it at this certain speed and in 4th gear, it doesn’t feel like it’s slipping as it’s already shifted into the gear, but it’s at the lower end of the gear and if I hit the gas a little faster it accelerates and gets unstuck from that loop
PLEASE DELETE THIS VIDEO.... you will never adjust or touch the TPS sensor. Japanese engineers have this set DUMMY! That's why those bolts are not screwable.
Haha. And when you replace it? Hello?
@@GarageBuiltHondas you should replace the entire throttle body, which comes with manf tuned settings...
No. That's not required otherwise they wouldn't sell independent TPS's. That really wouldn't be cost effective. Think of all the Honda's in the world with aftermarket throttle bodies with not a single TPS already attached. Do you really think they have a hard time adjusting those? This method works perfectly fine.
@@GarageBuiltHondas yes with tuning issues...
Lmao, wow. Just stop man. It's like you're arguing that water isn't wet. Geez.
Tip for anyone adjusting their throttle to make it as smooth as possible. Do not adjust wide open throttle voltage. Yes it's supposed to be 4.5v but if you get this perfect your closed throttle voltage will be off and your throttle will be jerky. Get closed throttle to a perfect .5v and you're done. When you're wide open throttle the ecu is using the map sensor anyway so there's no point in getting it perfect and messing up closed voltage.
That tool you made is awesome, I'm going to make a cleaner version as I adjust TPS frequently.
Good tip, thanks for adding the comment!
Bro, a buddy of mine calibrated mines while open throttle and its super jerky, gonna give this a try right now
@Ricer Yoo do it and let me know. Take your time with it, takes me a lot of tries cuz every time I tighten the bolts the reading changes.
Thanks, yours seems like a good advise. Does this applies to every fuel injection systems? I have a Honda cb1300, calibrated my TPS to the full throttle, and idle is about 0.7 volt. Throttle is a bit jerky at low rpm, maybe your are right about tuning at closed throttle.Should try it.
@Manute951 Any system with a cable throttle and TPS I believe should benefit from this method.
Watch your videos a lot now that I own a 88 civic hatch , and 4 years later this helps so many people including me
I made the mistake of adjusting my cable thinking it would help before addressing the IAC sensor. Thank goodness for you and this vid my dude
You got it!
Can't believe it has been 5 years since you had the old track car setup! Does not seem possible!
Right...
Great video! This worked perfectly. My Prelude had a blinking D4 light after I installed a new TPS and this fixed it. Thanks for the help!
Glad to help!
Jon i just put a skunk2 alpha 70mm tb and a skunk2 pro intake on my b20b swapped crx after taking the tps and putting it on the new tb no matter how a turn the tps it wont go above .15v closed and 3.28 at WOT. ive also tried another tps and same thing the previous owner did the swap and the harness conversion im just stumped though because it was running fine till i swapped everything
Where Did You Get The Tester Plug and the Male Connectors To Plug Into The Tester Plug. This Is The best How To Video I Have Found On RUclips.
The gator clips I got from Lowes. The extra plug from old parts cars I've junked.
Great video! 👍🏻 i have taken out my throttle body to clean it, i have replaced the gasket and after putting everything back i get this code 7. I haven't touched the tps at all... thank a lot ps, the car is a 92 prelude f20a4 engine.
john my man coming through again making another great video. just so happens i needed to learn how to do this. Thanks for all you do for the honda community.
Anytime buddy, glad to help!
ER DERRRRR
Just. AWESOME. any time I have an issue with my 91 EF, I come to your channel and you help me get thru it. Thank you for putting these videos up for the old school honda community! Congrats on the new garage and all the RUclips success, do you take any of the D series toys out to the track? If there's a video of that i haven't seen it. I'm slowly prepping my ef for autocross. I have the original d15b2 with an mpfi conversion, 1999 d16y5 intake manifold, I also have the d16y5 at home waiting for the old d15 to throw in the towel. Thank you again for all the content!
Much appreciated, glad to always help! You've missed out, I raced a sohc supercharged d16 this last year for a few events. ruclips.net/video/hafkgoqUJI0/видео.html
I was looking for this video recently, and here it is...thanks a lot man. Really appreciate it...
You're welcome
Hi guys so i have an 08 civic and i was messing with my cold air intake.....now i have multiple symptoms... Engine accelerating on its own while in drive bad shifts slight overheating.....a maf code that isn't accurate.....i replaced it 3 times..............( i didn't really move much any suggestions?? And lower and rougher idle............
Love your videos man!!! Great info!!! I'm a proud owner of a 2000 crv too. Love it. Anyways i just adjusted my tps and closed i get.52 and wot 4.6. Is that ok??? And while i had the throttle body off i ran down the fast idler valve. Was just wondering your thoughts on that if you think that is ok. Thanks
It's close enough and will be just fine. 👍
for public interest, if you change the TPS and just eyebalL the voltage, your car WILL BE STUCK IN PARK AND YOU HAVE TO USE THE KEY RELEASE! ARRRRRGGGHHHH!!! But if you do as GBH has shown,it will shift out of park normally. SSSwweeeeeet!
0.50V IDLE - 4.50Volts WOT. 5V Supply
All B/D Series 3-Pin TPS set procedure.
Apply +/- voltage to two wires, read voltage from 3rd wire. KOEO. Adjust TPS as needed.
Really like the jjumper harness. Was just thinking about making one today while I was surfing the tube. I basically have to have one so I don't mess with my rywire harness. Also, you install, or have any videos on installing AEM or aftermarket ECT sensor? Trying to find location. I'm wondering if I can install where oem is and use the blue wire to tap into the ecu with hondata. Thanks from San Antonio.
To remove the factory screws you can use a cutter, that's what I do, apply a pressure on the screw side and twist. Other people use nose pliers
👍
Got an engine with no tb so i found a stock ex one in my parts bin. I kept getting 0.01 to 3.2v on my tps. Off the car it was correct- took forever to figure out it was the throttle body itself! The return spring has worn and is no longer tight enough to maintain the correct voltages. I wish this spring was replaceable but its not. Nobody makes a stock 60mm tb anymore except whats left at Honda stores for $350. Junkyard parts will probably fair no better. The smallest cheapo tb is 68mm! Ecu will not like that or will it??
For the plug you made with the alligator clips, where did you plug the other end to and what is it called?
Sorry, I’m a little slow.
About that TPS testing plug you created, I’m wanting to create one like that myself. I’m not following how exactly that works. You plug it into the TPS sensor you want to test, use the alligator clips for the multimeter you hook up to, but what and how do you hook up the other three wires too without splicing into the harness?
If you see in the video, all 3 wires now have the metal leads on the end. I slide those right back into the original TPS plug to create the connection.
Garage Built Hondas ok I got that part of it. Now where did you source the male ends that plug into the engine harness?
De-pinned from another plug. I cannot remember which because I have a box full of connectors, but obviously ones that are male ends.
Mine read 0.06 with it unplugged and wired to the TPS plug and 0.56 plugged in and set to the maximum position Would this mean its accurate?
Hi thanks for the video. I have a 02 Acura tl type s with the main and sub throttles. I did a cleaning of both and removed the tps on the sub throttle, not knowing what it was, to clean. Once i saw it was not something I needed to clean i screwed it back on. I then got a 94-1 and vsa and traction control light with high idle. I also got a p0505 code, which was corrected with replacing the iacv. The acura dealership states i still have the tsc light on which they said can only be the valve or a short. Im pretty certain its not a short or problem with the wiring as i did the work myself. Could it be that i need to adjust it as you do in the video. My autel scanner has the sub throttle idling very high with the live data. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Very nice you helped me perfectly! I watched several vids but yours helped me where I needed. Thanks Bro!
Awesome! Thanks for commenting!
@@GarageBuiltHondas yeah I couldn't get 4.5 volts open and was worried until I saw yours which was similar. Just a little off. My cars issue has been fixed thank god! Shes running smooth and powerful now! :)
I got a 95 civic dx When I go to the yellow wire I get 5.02 but on the red I get 0.2 closed and open 2.something and I can’t get any higher than that.. Why is that ?
Bdogg0920 same!
Hey man i just fixed my civic 91 change gas pump and head gasket but when I accelerate just a little at low revs the car drowns out a lil & if I accelerate hard works well do you think I have to adjust the throttle body?
You can try it. Any CEL's?
@@GarageBuiltHondas no codes all sensors working
Super helpful video!
Glad it was helpful!
Question, my battery is relocated to the trunk. Can I use the negative terminal on a spare battery that is not hooked up to the car?
Not sure if you'll see this or not but I just wanted to know if your bswap was done with a civic si or an ex? I'm helping with a swap on a 91 si and everyone's telling me I need to do the dpfi to mpfi conversion and I'm telling them all no I don't. Having a helping comment from. You would go along way
I see em all, but looks like I got you on IG first! 👍
@@GarageBuiltHondas that you did. Thanks alot haha knew I wasn't crazy
I'm struggling to find the right setting on my multimeter. Another video showed 12V. You said "volts" but I can't see which one in this video.
So if I don’t have what u made to check the volts would I just have to check but direct wire contact ? Or how would that work ?
If not can I just replace it and if I did replace it would I still have to check the specs
You need a multimeter to check and set it. There isn't any other way.
do u have a video showing the actual install of a new one ?
I don't
Clear and concise, great video!
Appreciate the comment!!
Garage Built Hondas hey so I'm having trouble with my turbo EF. built b18b bottom b16a head car won't rev past 2500rpm. I bought a new tps sensor and installed today if it's above .5v at closed will this cause the issue I'm having I got pissed and went inside gonna try to fine tune it tomorrow need the car running properly by Tuesday to have it dyno tuned
Was it running fine then this started happening?
Garage Built Hondas no at first I have a code 9 so I changed the distributor and cleared that up. before I changed the distributor or started to do that so I thought once I fixed the code 9 it would go away. so then my tuner suggested that the tps was causing the issue I changed it last night but it still won't Rev past 2500 rpm.
Any other CEL'S?
I have a jdm d15b vtec swapped into my 91 RT wagon which is a mpfi. I cant get my tpa to calibrate. When i open to wot, the numbers get way too high and wont register. Any ideas on why?? Ive been searching for weeks on every thread i can. Please help
I used two tps and they both wouldn’t adjust past .22. The 2nd one I used didn’t move at all. Wide open like 3.5... are they both bad? It was fine before I swapped my engine same tps
Very informative video! Love how in depth you go.
Thanks Goldman!
Great videos, thanks. We have an '88 CRX non si model. At the end of the video you show a TPS with plug facing left, that's ours! So, what do we do then? switch the outside wires?
No. You need to find a dpfi specific TPS. There is no other option.
@@GarageBuiltHondas I found this
www.xasitur.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=55136&fbclid=IwAR08AJSsZPQ22NmuHH-KWjMS9ESk6dUwyB8MqewM9w5Tyx2T1Bo23JXhkjM
Yeaaa gonna need your assistance on this on my car
It's easy
Need to borrow the mini saw then
Please
Been trying to calibrate the TPS. Cannot set it at .5 volt.
The lowest voltage I get is 1.6 volt with the throttle fully closed. Fully opened, the reading is over 5 volts.
I think I bought myself some troubles.
Looks like the alternator has an issue too at high speed. Battery warning light blinking.
Transmission shifts at over 3000 rpm...when it does. And downshifting to first gear is harsh. Oh my. 😟
Shouldn't be too much changing some of those sensors.
what if the voltage is change when the engine is start example if my voltage in of engine is .73 in close position and when engine start the voltage is up in .86-87 is that normal or i need to change my tps
It sounds off. Does it idle high or have any strange symptoms?
I’m having the same problem. Closed it’s at .7 open it’s at 4.5
Hello my honda civic 97 stock tp voltage on idle minus -0.62 are the values ok
On your bswap did you have to swap the green and yellow wire on the tps?
When doing an mpfi setup in a dpfi chassis, yes.
hello. i wounder if you could help me out i bought a new tps sensor for a 95 accord and im getting 5 volts closed and 7 volts open will this still work or will something bad happen ?
Where can I find the tips you spliced at the bottom?? Love that custom tool
I got them at harbor freight. Thet probably sell them at your local auto parts store too. Gator clips!
I have a 1991 civic lx dpi we're do I buy a tps replacement I have order the wrong one every thing is pointing to a new throttle body.
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F222444311867
Thank you for your video! Very informative! When de-enrgized mine appears to be about 1/16 of an inch open. Is that normal? Or should it be fully closed?
That's normal. It'll always have a slight opening.
I have a 93 integra ls, which is the same manifold and throttle body on your car, will my tps readings need to be the same as yours are? Planning on installing a new intake manifold, throttle body and tps this weekend and want to make sure before I do it.
Yes
@@GarageBuiltHondas awesome, thanks man, I appreciate it. Contemplating maybe doing videos of the progress of my car, there isn't a lot of da hatchbacks on youtube with guides on how to do stuff
Nice, it could be fun for you just to enjoy making videos also.
I just did my TPS today and I got .49 closed and 4.65 open. Should I worry about this or just leave it?
It'll be just fine. You won't even notice a difference.
@@GarageBuiltHondas Well I ended up messing with it again and got it down to .483 and 4.610 but thats the best I could do.
Drive it. It'll feel just fine.
@@GarageBuiltHondas Yah you were right. Its been driving fine these past few days.
I’ve got a 2000 Honda Civic Cp ex, I can’t get anything lower than an 8.3 on the vehicle and I’ve tried grounding it on the negative post and have tried connecting it to the black and yellow wire. My car isles high and won’t go anything higher than 2.3k rpm it bogs down when I do any suggestions?
So I don't necessarily need to buy one ? I could just " Adjust " it and everything hopefully will get better?
More than likely no if you getting a check engine light? But it doesn't hurt to try it.
Would a bad tps gasket cause the vehicle to die on a cold start? It only happens when cold and if I spray some brake clean around the tps it makes the idle change.. Just wondering if you've ever run into that issue before, I should probably add that this is on a dual point style
It does sound like a vacuum leak of some sort especially with the fluctuating idle with the brake cleaner. I'd check the gasket first.
John love you vids some of the best I have seen. You seem like an old school guy but curious you ever dabble in k series ?
+Caspar Vester Thanks Caspar! I haven't had the opportunity yet! I'd love to have one and learn how to do the swap into an EF. Possibly one day, but nothing immediately planned.
Garage Built Hondas
Thanks for the reply I feel like I’m talking to a celebrity haha
Keep up the great content love the channel
+Caspar Vester Haha, thanks for the vote of confidence, but I'm just a regular guy like you, playing with some fun Hondas!
Awesome video! Also, how would I do this without your special tool?
You'll need to remove some of the casing of the wire to be able to get a reading.
I'm currently attempting this, but those damn screws are very tight. Even using the dremel and screwdriver method, they just won't budge. Think I need to use an impact driver like you did?
Try it.
@@GarageBuiltHondas ended up visiting my local mechanic who kindly agreed to unscrew them for me for free lol
👍
What are those bits at the end of that harness you made up called ? I'd like to buy some to make a harness like this. The parts that are pushed into the original parts. The ones after the alligator clips
I got them from some old honda plugs and de-pinned the plug. I believe they were from a distributor plug.
I gotta check engine light on my 97 prelude and got a code of 45. my car idle when starting up is grrr ruuu grrr so I cleaned my aivc (twice) still same issue. I bought a tps and of course it's installed using rivets.
once car is warmed up it runs fine but occasionally it won't accelerate then kicks in. Am I going into the right direction in replacing this sensor? idk it was adjustable, simply just a sensor.
I seen you break the rivets loose by creating a slot and twisting to left but will it tighten back up by just going right? thought rivets were threadless?
The throttle body is threaded. You can reuse the old hardware if it's still in good enough shape. I usually replace them. Is your code 45 for the TPS? If it is, then this could fix your weird idle issue. The TPS can cause an erratic idld if it's not working properly.
Is there any other way to get the TPS off if you don’t have a thing to grind lines in it? That’s where I’m stuck.
Not really. You could grind it off completely. Maybe a chisel and hammer.
Hello I just install my TPS was wondering I have it adjusted to.
.49v but when I open my throttle it read 4.17 any thoughts? Awesome video tho.
Try to adjust the position that its mounted, you may be able to achieve the correct settings.
@@GarageBuiltHondas I try. I'f I let it be a .49v close 4.18 WOT it giving me an idle surge drop up and down 200prpm to 1000prm. If I tap TPS a bit it stop surfing but idles at 2000rpm flat. Clean out iacv and will be flushing coolant next. Any other suggestions?
None but possibly a different tps. Is everything completely stock?
@@GarageBuiltHondas yeah everything is stock. It is a D16 motor. I order a new iacv with another Tps to see it helps.
Sounds more like an IACV or FITV issue. Your car may not have an FITV though.
Hey question, I have a 97 Acura cl and Lately it’s been having issues starting, now I thought it could’ve been bad gas or something along those lines but I put in the cleaner and put premium gas in the car and it still doesn’t wanna start right, the battery, and starter are good, I was wondering to see if this would help because my rpms are also not always at a set spot and will jump a lil sum times I really couldn’t find much on the issues beside the TPS also it seems to do it after the car has been running like if it sat overnight it would start right up, but if I drove like an hr + than leave it for like 20 minutes it does this.
Any CELs?
@@GarageBuiltHondas nope
The only light I have is my abs light but I changed my brakes and not rlly worried about it
may be some issues around the throttle body. the throttle body sensor, the throttle open and close mechanism, etc.
Nice you are from El Paso! how much do you charge to fix this?
Yes I am. I don't work on customer cars currently. My life/work are really busy for me during this time of year.
What exactly do you need done?
*Edit* what kind of car?
Do you know if installing the TPS sensor without calibrating it will cause bogging issues?
No
Ever find out anything? I’m bogging
@@bradleybaynard5536 I had a bad ECU
Thank you Sir
Hope it helped Aziz
I have CD5 with a H22A So if i unplug the tps there is no change
is it okay to remove the tps from the oem throttle body? my tb needs replacing but the after market one i have needs both sensors to be put on the new throttle body and the tps looks revited.
Yes it's ok.
A +, Outstanding tutorial.
Thanks!
hey bro.....my tps will only let the vehicle rev out close to properly when the voltage is 0.7v closed!...when i set it at 0.45v closed,it seems to go in limp mode and bog out at 3500 rpm. what you think could be wrong?
This didn't make any sense to my brain.. "only let the vehicle rev out close to properly when "? Help me out here.
sorry...lol that is how we talk in jamaica...but when i set my tps at 0.45 to 0.50v with the throttle plate closed, it bogs when i raise the rpms at 3500. its like i cant raise the rpms smoothly unless i set it at 0.70v closed
Jamauto tech Na, you're good! It just didn't compute in my head when I read it. Was your car running fine before adjusting it? It's showing .70 closed, and is it 4.70 at WOT?
I used needle pliers to grip around metal and came off smooth by hand after
👍
How do i adjust drivebywire throttlebody 2014accord v6???
i have a '00 civic coupe with a d15b and it has a tps low input code. there would be uneven idles and constant jerking of the car when i'm driving so the mechanic i usually go to replaced the tps sensor. afterwards, it was driving fine but i still noticed a little bit of jerking while driving and it eventually went back to before so i brought it to the mechanic again. he calibrated the voltages with the multimeter and a few days later, it's back to uneven idles and jerking while driving. i'm not sure if i should go back to the mechanic or look for a new one. the code still reads as tps low input. what do you think is the problem?
Is that the only CEL you're getting?
@@GarageBuiltHondas"tps low input" is the only code that shows up upon scanning.
@@aTastyBiscuit did you ever figure it out? Same problem here
I got a 96 civic ex upgraded intake and throttle body was 64mm stock OEM upgrade to a 70mm alpha body that was the smallest I could find anyway I got my meter set to DC volts 20 and key on position and negative on batter and my red lead on my red wire (middle of the three) and I’m getting 0.00 on bare wire but when I touch red lead off of the rubber coating for wire it picks up 1.00 something flops around does this indicate I have a wiring issue? Because if so why didn’t tit mess with my last throttle body
@Garage Built Hondas
Dud this helped me alot thanx for the awso.e content
You're welcome
Sometimes, when changing from 1st to 2nd and giving a 5 or 10% throttle, the engine would rev up and down unless I give it more throttle, SOMETIMES. Could this be lack of calibration or did it get busted? It was one of the things the mechanic changed (supposedly)
Possibly. Maybe a TPS that needs replacing also.
Thanks for the video! I replaced the oem tps because it had a dead spot. I replaced it with a known good oem but I cannot get it to adjust spot on. To get wot to 4.50 I have to adjust closed to .70. If I adjust closed to .50 then 4.30 at wot is my best. I split the difference and left it at .61 closed and 4.43 wot. Should I shoot for the best closed reading or the best wot reading? Or is splitting the difference ok?
What you did is perfect. You won't be able to tell the difference and you'll still be running optimally.
@@GarageBuiltHondas I love this channel!!!! Thank you Sir!!!!!
You're welcome!
I'm so glad you do!!
Hello, do you remember the part #? I have an 06 honda accord but fir the life of me, I don't know which part will match my tps.
شكرأ جون , كان هذا مفيداً جداً :)
I made the same diy "TPS splice connector" I even made an extra connector with a male USB to feed constant 5 volts so I don't have to turn the key on. Lol TPS cable was for k series. Little space to calibrate :(
Aries Robillos I've never worked on one yet, I'll keep that in mind!
My husband hadden vladamir 3rd and I have a question can a mpfi throttle body be used for a dpfi set up because my husband cracked the connection to what we both think is a Map sensor at the rear of the dpfi throttle body and is a difficult part to locate and replace as well as a complete throttle body assembly unit....please help with any suggestion also we replaced the coolant temp sensor but the connector on the wire harness cracked and trying to locate a replacement pigtail
No, the TB is completely different on the dpfi setup. It's an oddball. The sensors can be bought brand new, that's the only way to fix a broken connection on them.
What if the new tps is showing 0 v at closed and 3.34 wot
Does anybody in the group have a 1999 Acura CL 2.3 or similar? Wanted to see how your car ran after you put in the new Throttle body position sensor.
Could the tps be causing my car to idle high? I have the tps code and map code but the map sensor I replaced but still reading the code. Could a bad tps trigger the map sensor?
It's possible, but unlikely. Try to get it fixed first and if the idle is still high then you.knownits not the TPS.
You earned yourself a sub for a four year old video🤣
That's fantastic!
In order to get wide open throttle reading I need to change the wire im testing? Or is it the same as with the 4.5 closed reading one?
same wire, WOT should be 4.5, and .50 closed.
J Wid Films then for some reason it doesnt change voltage when I open it. What could it? Im not having tps problems btw just swapping ny oem tb
The connection is good?
J Wid Films Im not sure, i just punctured a little hole to my red and black wire. Its an RSXS
Maybe take off a little more of the sleeve to expose more wire and see if that helps the connection.
Hey man i have code 4 on my 1991 civic DX D15b2 were is the crank position sensor located
Inside the distributor
@@GarageBuiltHondas can i replase just the sensor or all the distributor
What does the TPS affect when in a bad position?
Bad position?
Need help first time doing this but I have a 92 civic vx hatchback the throttle body is much smaller I bought an ek arm intake which is alot more wide open then the eg one can I just swap out the ek throttle body to my eg which they just bolt right on ?
I'm not sure if it'll fit. Might be too big. The arm will fit, you might just need a silicone reducer.
@@GarageBuiltHondas thanks for the response but sadly the ek throttle body is much wider so I wasnt able to just bolt it right up so now I think my option is to either try finding the ex manifold n see if theres is bigger or just go buy an intake for the 1.5 leter intake
Are you talking about an intake arm and filter?
What year are your Tps. And are all Honda tps adjustable. I have a rough idle or stall at 1500 rpms the nose every time. I have tried everything else. I have no check engine light
David Valentine what car and what engine do you have?
1999 Honda civic dx 1.6 L
Your TPS is adjustable on your car. You've done the basic maintenance? Plugs, wires, fuel filter, distributor all in good condition and replaced sometime between 1999 and now?
yep
David Valentine If it was my car my guess would be something with the intake manifold. Possibly a sensor or injector that needs cleaning. Ever change the fuel filter? What about the IACV?
Is it possible to use an impact screw to make a slit?
It might work, but my guess is probably not.
This is an old video but I was wondering if you could help me. My tps output signal is very low varying between 0.05 to 0.08 at Closed throttle and it doesn't change when I open up the throttle. Ive checked and I'm getting 5 volts on the positive and negative wires. So would that mean my tps has gone bad? It's also fairly new and was working. If not then any other ideas you might have would be much appreciated.
Do you have another one you could check also? If it's giving you those readings it almost sounds like it is faulty. You're multimeter is setup correctly and all connections fine?
Garage Built Hondas thank you for responding and I do but it's one I randomly found in my box of bolts and things. Its prbly faulty as well, because it reads exactly the same. Yup the multimeter and all connections are as good as can be. So it's most likely faulty tps then
You know, head to the auto parts store and buy one, come home and test it out. If it's still giving you the same reading then something else is wrong and you can take the TPS right back and get your refund. 😀
Garage Built Hondas that's what I was thinking, thanks man :D so if that ends up being the case, could it be the ecu?
Probably not. More than likely a wiring issue.
What if the tps reads .5 to 4.1 wide open but won't turn anymore? 03 Honda civic 1.7l
I'm not familiar with those civics, does it have a throttle cable still?
Garage Built Hondas yes it has one.
Garage Built Hondas after putting it back on with the above measurements the code cleared and the threw up a p1106 baro curcut 1 of 2 code both the same
+Atah714 try this. www.engine-codes.com/p1106_honda.html
Sometimes when I’ve driving my car (92 accord coupe EX 5 speed) it’ll bog and almost want to die. If I give it more gas or downshift it’s fine. I’m not getting a CEL either. Would this be the TPS? I’ve replaced the entire fuel system (car is a project and was sitting for a few years) new distributor, new EGR valve, new black box and MAP sensor. The car would seemingly go into a limp mode with no CEL when I first bought it (it’s why I bought it) and wouldn’t rev past 3-4K rpm. The fuel system was bad so new pump, filter and injectors remedied a lot of its running issues. Then my oil light would come on so I just had a new pump put in and timing belt and water pump and the accompanying gaskets and seals. I fear that when picking the car up tomorrow it’ll still have the same driving issue. The previous owner (a mechanic that saved it from sitting) thought since the oil pump was going bad it wasn’t supplying enough pressure and forcing the engine into a limp mode of sorts. But there’s no CEL. My final guess will be the TPS if the issue is still present when I drive it home tomorrow. I have a DMM so I can test it and I’m prepared to buy a new TPS and install it but I want to get a second opinion before doing so.
Distributor?
@@GarageBuiltHondas so that issue, was bad gas in tank. Fresh fuel and sea foam in the tank and it’s fine.
The issue that is now the only issue, is no much power above 4K Rpms. Just feel like the car is not making much or any power up there. Below 4K is fine. On an extended drive I got the low oil pressure warning light and the car fell flat on its face and would not rev. Upon restarting it was fine. It’s parked for now.
I’ve replaced the oil pump, water pump, timing belt, and cam seal. What would cause low oil pressure like this? I am taking a wild guess and assuming the low oil pressure has a lot to do with its current drive ability. The engine, is not knocking or even tapping. It sounds really quiet at idle. It just turned over 200k miles.
@@SimbaTheGreat clogged oil pickup in sump?
@@JA_S_ON I chased that issue forever. I had a rusted out gas tank that was contaminating my fuel system. I finally changed everything myself instead of paying a shop and fixed the issue. Been fine all year.
Ive heard that you can put a new one on an reset the ecu
Yes you can do that to clear the CEL's, but it still needs to be calibrated.
Sooooooooo how much would this cost at a shop???cuz mines riveted on and i don't wanna take the whole throttle body off T_T
No idea. You should call and ask.
Great video, thank you very much for your input.
You're welcome
Thank you in 2022
Can the tps cause slight rpm hunt at 1500 rpm down 100 rpm to 1400 rpm and sorta be stuck in that small loop until I give it more gas or let up on the gas? This only happens at a slight pressing down of the gas pedal and keeping it that consistent speed
I have a video on my channel that shows what happens with the tach
+Rick Harrison if you're applying gas and it's moving, does it feel like the transmission is slipping? Any CEL's?
Garage Built Hondas no cels that I am aware of, if I press on gas and hold it at this certain speed and in 4th gear, it doesn’t feel like it’s slipping as it’s already shifted into the gear, but it’s at the lower end of the gear and if I hit the gas a little faster it accelerates and gets unstuck from that loop
Im calibrating mine right now, does it have to exactly on .50 and 4.50
Those are oem specs, anything close will be ok.
Oh you're A MECHANIC mechanic
24-7
Would this cause my car not being able to rev past 3k while driving?
I don't think so.
does the throttle body need to be removed
Aldo No, I only had the extra one to show the process.
How about a d16y8 .what are numbers for the throttle body closes please
+Arturo Garcia same. .5 and 4.5. 👍
Would a bad tps make the car hard to start an idle
It can cause idle issues, usually not any hard start though.