Thank you for this video. I’ve just renovated a bedroom and your tips on this and your other videos have helped a lot. I completed the job much faster and with better results than previous attempts.
Its a beach front hotel and it was a day with extreme weather warnings, so it was a little windy that day. Also I had removed all the rubber seals from the door frames so I could paint them.
Very valuable information. I've been trying to figure out the best order to paint all the surfaces in and it's amazing how important the specific order is. Thanks !
I'm from los Angeles ca I been painting for 24 years That's a good way to teach a a first level painter how to paint a commercial door frame nice!👍 I'm the original painter that painted the Hollywood sign in October 2012 RUclips Hollywood sign facelift
I have 10 door jambs that finally need to be repainted after 19 years. I am considering doing them myself and I was wondering if I should use Floetrol as a paint lever to reduce or eliminate brush marks? And I do not want the doors to get stuck due to too much paint on them? Or would it be better to spray them? Thank you
I used floetrol recently and can say first the product is water and a cheap latex paint mixed. It gave me runs and was ok working with white latex paint but I added some to tinted base for trim and it changed the color and dulled the sheen. I would advise not using it. Use a stiff chinex brush and learn good technique for the results you are after.
Thank you for the tips and advice! I will definitely forgo the floetrol. I first start on the door coming in from the garage to see how the technique works.
Ahh, timber frames. Bit of a rarity over here in Perth, all metal frames here. Got an 80's house reno, each frame I scrape back to metal, paint comes off very easy, go over frame with solvent, mask off with frog tape/newspaper, spray etch primer whole frame, spray gloss white around hinge bracket that's spot welded to frame (Can't be removed), then brush on Dulux oil based gloss white. This is with the door, hinges and pins removed mind, the hinges I remove any paint, clean with metho, spray with etch primer, the spray gloss white. Hinge pin, give pin an emery paper rub so there's no wear marks, same paint treatment for head of the pin (OCD I know) and very light smear vaseline on the pins. For any Perth or anyone else Oz wide, the bump rubbers that usually perish, you can get them for 40 cents each at big green shed with a red hammer logo. Door itself, I'm a lazy sod, nearby paint n panel spray shop does a door for about $170 in 2 pack, done in 2 days, no waiting for paint to cure and super smooth finish. Enough of my waffle, liked the video.
Metal door frames are always a pain, just wondering why you don't spray finish the frame if you already have everything in place? Also do you paint your frames first as it can be quiet tricky trying to cut in to the walls.
@@howtopaintinfo Gday mate, mainly I found the gloss of Dulux high gloss enamel was superior with a brush, and doing it with a spray can was hard to get consistent finish all over. Strangely enough brushing on oil based paint is pretty soothing when it's on your own dime, and don't mind the smell at all (Missus is at odds with that but). Not necessarily plugging Dulux, though it is a good product. Even with drop sheets/masked off with newspaper, the over spray from the etch primer was a bit of a pain, but found it gave a much better adhesion to the metal frame. I suppose you've seen plenty of blobby paint runs on hinges though. I did them last, I am crap at cutting in so use tape, that "frog" tape seems to work ok, walls, whole other story, had to scrape back to hard plaster (All solid brick in Perth) as plaster not sealed in 80's, sealer/binder applied (Mmm, the smell...), skim coated all the dings pock marks, two undercoats, wait 4 days, run orbital over with 120 paper for baby bum smooth, then topcoat x 2. Get much hardplaster paint flaking off issues over east?
Would you recommend painting the door frames or the doors first?? And should skirting boards be done very last after painting a room? Thanks for the informative videos!
Wipe over with a dry brush any area's where you think you are leaving fatty edges, that is the best way to avoid them. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
Either Gloss Enamel or a Satin Enamel, some people are starting to use aqua enamel on frames but oil based is better just a little harder to use. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
Depends on what I'm painting, 63 mm I do use a lot and for larger areas like fascia's I will use 75 mm or 3 inch brush. No I don't shape mine, you should be able to buy either what they call sash or oval cutters which are shaped nicely. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
There are a few reasons, if you did roll the flats then you would still need to lay it off with a brush so it all matches. Also when rolling the flats you could flick spots on to the finished walls which would make a mess. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
Would a paint sprayer give you a better finish for both door jambs & doors? Bathroom & Kitchen Cabinets? I'll be using Sherwin Williams Pro Classic. Thank you for the video.
A spray finish can look better if done correctly but it can be just as quick to brush door jambs if you take in to account all the time it takes to mask up. The thing with using a sprayer is the overspray, so I will use a sprayer on a new home but with an existing home with carpet etc I would just use a brush and roller. Depending on your brush skill you may find using a sprayer is better to use even with all the masking time. With doors I would spray about half and brush and roll the other half, as I said it depends on where I'm working and if spraying is viable or not.
Thank you, I decided to brush & use a roller with Flotrol added to Latex to reduce brush & roller marks. & I used Penetrol with the oil based Kilz primer. It really does make a difference. A little goes a long way.
Jancen Well that is a good question, good quality brushes are better but if you don't think you will use them that often then maybe you will be wasting your money. You can store them for next time you need to paint or maybe buy just one good brush for all your trim work and a cheaper brush for walls and ceilings. I know others would say you would be wasting your money buying cheap brushes, so it's up to you but remember good quality brushes are better to use.
Better quality brushes tend to clean up better and therefore reduce the overall number you need to buy too. In my experience, one $10 brush lasts longer than 5 x $2 brushes and you also get a better finish. If they're cleaned properly and stored properly it doesn't matter how often you use them. Shape the bristles while wet. Once dry, store in an air tight container. I've used the same, good quality brush for years that way.
On new construction, I see painters caulk where the side jambs meet the head jamb - as well as other seams between parts of the trim profile. Do you do this when re-painting trim that has previously been painted? Thanks!
Is it the norm to paint all door frames in a house the same color. I have chosen white for kitchen and bathroom, but in the bed rooms have already painted using pascal color. This will result with a hall way having different door frame colors.
Normally if a room is different colour to the hallway then the door frame would be painted in two different colours, one side painted to suit room the other side painted to suit hallway. That's why you will find a lot of people that like different colours in every room choose white as a neutral colour for all the trim. So if you wanted it to look all matching then you would need to paint the hallway side of the door frame white.
I bought new molding trim boards thst are already primered should i paint them while they are off & can i use can spray paint with primer or should i use brush adding flotrol in it to keep down brush strokes?
That is up to you, you can paint the new molding but you will need to fix it with something, I assume nails. So you will want to do final coat when the molding is in place. There is nothing to say you cant use spray cans but it could get a little expensive using them. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe
I think you have been watching to many home improvement shows instead of watching how tradesman really do it. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
Often people will refer to Glossing the woodwork but a lot of people now use Semi Gloss enamel instead of Full Gloss Enamel. So yes we still do gloss in Australia but Semi Gloss has become more popular. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
It depends on the condition of the frame, if its rough start with 80 grit and if in good condition start with 120 or 180 grit. Generally I wouldn't go below 120 for a first sand,
The only time I remove doors is if I'm going to spray them, generally it's too time consuming to remove and put back doors. Just be carful around the hinges. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
Make sure doors have plenty of clearance before painting, as in make sure they have a gap all the way around so they are not touching frame. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
Normally paint them with wall paint so they are sealed, only time I paint them is when they can be seen like if a frame is at the bottom of a stairway where you can see the top . Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
Hi there, just discovered your channel while searching door painting. I really like your paint technique - you are good with a brush. I am about to paint 4 new doors that I had installed in my home to replace the old 1970's flat builders doors typically used at the time. The doors are pre-primed and have a wood grain look to them. Just wondering if there are any painting techniques/paint finishes that would minimize the look of the wood grain?
Hi...I am at the point that I need to paint the doors and frames of my rooms. Would you please tell me where I start? Door or frame first? Also, on my window frames and skirting boards I have used primer then undercoat then 2 coats of gloss enamel. Is this the technique I should use on my frames & doors. I am worried that I will make it too thick and the doors won't close properly. Please help?
Hi Sarah, paint your doors last because you don't want to splash paint on them while painting the door frames. Some times doors will need to planed due to the paint build up, if they are touching now then you will need to plane the edge slightly to allow for the extra coats of paint.
Why is it when I'm painting wood doors and frames currently with oil based gloss that 30 seconds after painting it on, if I go back over a spot I just did it's peeling off?? The doors have previous paint on from a long time ago. I've cleaned all with sugar soap then wiped it off. I'm lightly sanding (keying) prior to painting
Its hard to say, sounds like it could have needed a harder sand or there could be some chemicals still on the door from cleaning. Also remember if you have a dry brush and go back over what you have done it can take paint off rather than putting it on. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
Thank your videos have helped me so much in my business by far the best painting videos on youtube thank you for taking the time to make them and to answer all our questions have a great day. Paul
@@jazzbaby6 very true primer & paint all in one works great I use BEHR MARQUIS it stands up to what the company says one coat guaranteed saves lot of the extra work👍
The way your glossing the door frame is the right way old school by doing that way your glossing everything inside instead of walking in and out.. a lot of painters now usually do start behind the door and gloss the whole frame inside and outside and continue with the top and side as all one piece so you don’t miss a section
I prefer dulux professional acrylic sealer undercoat because it sands easier but other mates of mine prefer total prep so it really depends on what you are happy with.
Thank you for sharing! I'm trying to paint wood window sash with oil base paint and have a hard time with it. I'm not clear on the technique in using brush with oil base paint hope you could help. I though that you suppose to go only one direction with your brush but I saw that you did go back & ford with your brush. When I did this, it caused a lot of brush marks.
What kind of paint are you using? Is it a trim paint? If so, do you thin it at all? I loathe trim paint, even after thinning. No flow, no coverage (unless white on white), no stretch, gums up too quickly, you name it.
+Von Milash I'm using Dulux Semi Gloss Enamel, oil based. I try to use it straight from the can but I will thin slightly after I have painted a few frames due to evaporation. I think one of the biggest problems for people using oil based paints is that they don't apply enough paint or they apply too much and don't brush it out enough.
You do the inside first, then the back band, then the face. If you do the back band first the pant may dry and leave stimple on the face. If you do the face first you'll mess or up doing the inside and back band
+reed jr Bennett LOL...You're kidding right? It's ceilings, walls, windows, doors, base...If you paint your frames first you'll just be painting them again because if you're any kind of painter you'll get drips from the walls and ceilings...
godbluffvdgg wrong. Ceilings,then trim(crown,frames and doors),then walls. I do baseboards last. Same concept of painting frames before walls. Easier to paint a nice straight line on the baseboards to a freshly painted wall than the other way.Actually a lot faster too. And if your any kind of painter you won't be splattering paint every damn where when rolling walls or ceilings. Lol. In the 20 years I've been painting,using this process I was taught at a union based paint company I've never had any issues. A process that no doubt goes back a long time. Lol
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for this video. I’ve just renovated a bedroom and your tips on this and your other videos have helped a lot. I completed the job much faster and with better results than previous attempts.
Glad it was helpful!
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Its a beach front hotel and it was a day with extreme weather warnings, so it was a little windy that day. Also I had removed all the rubber seals from the door frames so I could paint them.
love the spooky sound track in the background...great job
Lol, just a windy day.
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Was that an exorcism going on in the background ? Lol. j/k mate, well done.
5and 50 Lmao
IKR!!😭 💀
my sides into orbit
no its your ears hearing things lol
Too funny!
Very valuable information. I've been trying to figure out the best order to paint all the surfaces in and it's amazing how important the specific order is. Thanks !
I'm from los Angeles ca I been painting for 24 years That's a good way to teach a a first level painter how to paint a commercial door frame nice!👍 I'm the original painter that painted the Hollywood sign in October 2012 RUclips Hollywood sign facelift
Would have been a good gig.
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Get the hell out of there mate, there is a hurricane coming !!!!
Meghan Waldron lmfaoooo
Lmao
Haha nice comment
Ahahahahaaaa!!!
🤣
I have 10 door jambs that finally need to be repainted after 19 years. I am considering doing them myself and I was wondering if I should use Floetrol as a paint lever to reduce or eliminate brush marks? And I do not want the doors to get stuck due to too much paint on them? Or would it be better to spray them? Thank you
I used floetrol recently and can say first the product is water and a cheap latex paint mixed. It gave me runs and was ok working with white latex paint but I added some to tinted base for trim and it changed the color and dulled the sheen. I would advise not using it. Use a stiff chinex brush and learn good technique for the results you are after.
Thank you for the tips and advice! I will definitely forgo the floetrol. I first start on the door coming in from the garage to see how the technique works.
Ahh, timber frames.
Bit of a rarity over here in Perth, all metal frames here. Got an 80's house reno, each frame I scrape back to metal, paint comes off very easy, go over frame with solvent, mask off with frog tape/newspaper, spray etch primer whole frame, spray gloss white around hinge bracket that's spot welded to frame (Can't be removed), then brush on Dulux oil based gloss white.
This is with the door, hinges and pins removed mind, the hinges I remove any paint, clean with metho, spray with etch primer, the spray gloss white.
Hinge pin, give pin an emery paper rub so there's no wear marks, same paint treatment for head of the pin (OCD I know) and very light smear vaseline on the pins. For any Perth or anyone else Oz wide, the bump rubbers that usually perish, you can get them for 40 cents each at big green shed with a red hammer logo.
Door itself, I'm a lazy sod, nearby paint n panel spray shop does a door for about $170 in 2 pack, done in 2 days, no waiting for paint to cure and super smooth finish.
Enough of my waffle, liked the video.
Metal door frames are always a pain, just wondering why you don't spray finish the frame if you already have everything in place? Also do you paint your frames first as it can be quiet tricky trying to cut in to the walls.
@@howtopaintinfo Gday mate, mainly I found the gloss of Dulux high gloss enamel was superior with a brush, and doing it with a spray can was hard to get consistent finish all over. Strangely enough brushing on oil based paint is pretty soothing when it's on your own dime, and don't mind the smell at all (Missus is at odds with that but).
Not necessarily plugging Dulux, though it is a good product.
Even with drop sheets/masked off with newspaper, the over spray from the etch primer was a bit of a pain, but found it gave a much better adhesion to the metal frame.
I suppose you've seen plenty of blobby paint runs on hinges though.
I did them last, I am crap at cutting in so use tape, that "frog" tape seems to work ok, walls, whole other story, had to scrape back to hard plaster (All solid brick in Perth) as plaster not sealed in 80's, sealer/binder applied (Mmm, the smell...), skim coated all the dings pock marks, two undercoats, wait 4 days, run orbital over with 120 paper for baby bum smooth, then topcoat x 2.
Get much hardplaster paint flaking off issues over east?
There is nothing wrong with a good brush finish.
I haven't come across hard plaster flaking for a long time and yes sealer binder is the way to go.
Your videos are really good. Thank you for taking the time to do this.
Glad you like them!
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Great to see a Master Painter at work 👍👍
Thanks 👍
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Would you recommend painting the door frames or the doors first?? And should skirting boards be done very last after painting a room? Thanks for the informative videos!
Yes door frame first then door then skirting's.
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howtopaintinfo awesome, thanks so much for the reply! 🙏
For this type of work what stiffness of bristle is the best and what do you prefer?
You should use a firm bristle brush, just not a soft bristle brush as it is too hard to spread the paint.
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Great videos.How do you avoid fatty edges?
Wipe over with a dry brush any area's where you think you are leaving fatty edges, that is the best way to avoid them.
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What sort of paint do you recommend for this? I need to do mine in my older home. So need to sand them back first.
Yes you will need to sand first and I still prefer using Satin Enamel on door frames.
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Hi there, for new wooden door can I paint white sealer as a base and then paint with matte paint?
Using a white sealer is fine and its up to you what you use a top coat but matte will get dirty quicker.
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How do you get the frames looking soo good before painting? Can you pls go through the prepping stages. Thanks
Depends on condition, it can range from a mild sand to a hard sand and lots of filling.
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@@howtopaintinfo thanks 👍
What is the correct paint finish for door frames? Gloss?
Either Gloss Enamel or a Satin Enamel, some people are starting to use aqua enamel on frames but oil based is better just a little harder to use.
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Hi, big fan of your work, just wondered what brush do you use , is it a 3 inch and have you shaped it?
Thanks
Depends on what I'm painting, 63 mm I do use a lot and for larger areas like fascia's I will use 75 mm or 3 inch brush. No I don't shape mine, you should be able to buy either what they call sash or oval cutters which are shaped nicely.
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@@howtopaintinfo thanks for the reply, long time subscriber 👍
once you have the door off to paint have you tried using the Stak Rack?
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A proper tradesman....old school.... brilliant...!!!
Yep, at least there is still one around, lol
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@@howtopaintinfo just like my self..... Old school decorator....
Just a question, why not use a roller for the flat parts?.
There are a few reasons, if you did roll the flats then you would still need to lay it off with a brush so it all matches. Also when rolling the flats you could flick spots on to the finished walls which would make a mess.
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Is it better to use mini 1/4" nap roller on flat surfaces as the trim face & inner door jamb?
I still prefer the brush look on trim.
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I cant believe you managed to do the narrow side without getting anything on the dark wall. Daym
Lots of practice
Would a paint sprayer give you a better finish for both door jambs & doors? Bathroom & Kitchen Cabinets? I'll be using Sherwin Williams Pro Classic. Thank you for the video.
A spray finish can look better if done correctly but it can be just as quick to brush door jambs if you take in to account all the time it takes to mask up. The thing with using a sprayer is the overspray, so I will use a sprayer on a new home but with an existing home with carpet etc I would just use a brush and roller. Depending on your brush skill you may find using a sprayer is better to use even with all the masking time. With doors I would spray about half and brush and roll the other half, as I said it depends on where I'm working and if spraying is viable or not.
Thank you, I decided to brush & use a roller with Flotrol added to Latex to reduce brush & roller marks. & I used Penetrol with the oil based Kilz primer. It really does make a difference. A little goes a long way.
Mark Schrader pro classic is super thick and self leveling probably not the best thru a sprayer
Does it make sense to buy a more expensive brush with better quality even if I don't get to do household painting that often?
Jancen Well that is a good question, good quality brushes are better but if you don't think you will use them that often then maybe you will be wasting your money. You can store them for next time you need to paint or maybe buy just one good brush for all your trim work and a cheaper brush for walls and ceilings. I know others would say you would be wasting your money buying cheap brushes, so it's up to you but remember good quality brushes are better to use.
Better quality brushes tend to clean up better and therefore reduce the overall number you need to buy too. In my experience, one $10 brush lasts longer than 5 x $2 brushes and you also get a better finish. If they're cleaned properly and stored properly it doesn't matter how often you use them. Shape the bristles while wet. Once dry, store in an air tight container. I've used the same, good quality brush for years that way.
Your brush control is excellent
Thanks.
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Do i need to sand it first?
Yes you should sand before you start and lightly sand in between coats.
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Good tips. Nice teaching. 👍
Thanks 👍
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What color/type tan is that and what color/type for trim and jams?
So I can't remember the colours..
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what type of brush (brand also) do you like to use for enamel?
I like the rota cota excel brushes for enamel, bristles are good for enamel.
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Purdy
what kind of paint did you use , water or solvent base .
Solvent based for interior woodwork.
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I assume you are using oil based paint. Do you thin the paint down at all, it just looks like the paint is going on very easily? Thanks
Depends on paint but usually yes just thin a little
Do you sand the frame first?
Yes, a good sand before undercoat and a light sand before final coat.
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On new construction, I see painters caulk where the side jambs meet the head jamb - as well as other seams between parts of the trim profile. Do you do this when re-painting trim that has previously been painted? Thanks!
Yes, you caulk the gaps to make the surface look good when finished.
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@@howtopaintinfo thanks!! You are one of the very best painters on YT. It would be great if you would do new videos.
Which paint is best for door frames
I normally use semi gloss enamel or sometimes gloss enamel or you could use an aqua enamel
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What is process if the door casing and trim is the old dark wood - sand, prime, and paint ?
Yes you will need to give it a good sand, prime and paint.
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Is it the norm to paint all door frames in a house the same color.
I have chosen white for kitchen and bathroom, but in the bed rooms have already painted using pascal color. This will result with a hall way having different door frame colors.
Normally if a room is different colour to the hallway then the door frame would be painted in two different colours, one side painted to suit room the other side painted to suit hallway. That's why you will find a lot of people that like different colours in every room choose white as a neutral colour for all the trim. So if you wanted it to look all matching then you would need to paint the hallway side of the door frame white.
Nice I learn a lot from your video!! Good job 👍🏻
Glad to hear that!
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I'm going to be a painter in 3 years and these videos are very useful! keep them coming!
Maiju17 did you become a painter after all?
Maiju17 did you become a painter after all?
Good.
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I bought new molding trim boards thst are already primered should i paint them while they are off & can i use can spray paint with primer or should i use brush adding flotrol in it to keep down brush strokes?
That is up to you, you can paint the new molding but you will need to fix it with something, I assume nails. So you will want to do final coat when the molding is in place. There is nothing to say you cant use spray cans but it could get a little expensive using them.
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Shouldn't there be some kind of tape involved?
I think you have been watching to many home improvement shows instead of watching how tradesman really do it.
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The noise is from a typhoon! These guys work in all conditions. 😳
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Are there dinosaurs outside? Btw, thanks for your channel - it's been amazingly helpful and informative.
No dinosaurs and I'm glad you like my channel.
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your technique is basically the same as here in the UK .good to see you cut in and not go taping everything
Lol. taping is time consuming and should only be used when there is no other option.
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Do you gloss in Australia or do you use a special type of paint?
Often people will refer to Glossing the woodwork but a lot of people now use Semi Gloss enamel instead of Full Gloss Enamel. So yes we still do gloss in Australia but Semi Gloss has become more popular.
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Hi mate, what’s your go to brush for oil based enamel?
Rota Cota excel brushes seem to be good for enamel work.
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How about showing me how u paint the jambs when there r 2 different colors: inside & outside jamb
I will see what I can do.
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Is this gloss paint?
No, Semi Gloss.
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Do you sand between costs?
Yes, just a light sand..
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What if i put tape around the door and paint it with a wiz roller ?
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What about using a small roller?
A roller will leave a slight orange peel effect so that's up to you.
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howtopaintinfo do you use a pure bristle brush for doing your enamel work?
Not any more.
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I couldn't sell brushed on door frame and casing paint. Spray only on all doors and trim.
A good brushed finish looks great on trim.
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That noise doesn't stop, like my mr's 🙈🤣... Great job
Lol, Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
What grit sandpaper did you use to sand the door frame ?
It depends on the condition of the frame, if its rough start with 80 grit and if in good condition start with 120 or 180 grit. Generally I wouldn't go below 120 for a first sand,
Should the door be removed to prevent painting the hinges?
The only time I remove doors is if I'm going to spray them, generally it's too time consuming to remove and put back doors. Just be carful around the hinges.
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i found that after undercoat and topcoat on door edge and frame the door wouldnt fit in frame scraping my new paint finish.....any ideas?
Plane your door.lol
Make sure doors have plenty of clearance before painting, as in make sure they have a gap all the way around so they are not touching frame.
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Would you mask the door frame?
Generally no but there can be time when you might need too.
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Do u not catch the top of the door frame just because u cannot see it u would get pulled up on it if u were working for me.
Normally paint them with wall paint so they are sealed, only time I paint them is when they can be seen like if a frame is at the bottom of a stairway where you can see the top .
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Hi there, just discovered your channel while searching door painting. I really like your paint technique - you are good with a brush. I am about to paint 4 new doors that I had installed in my home to replace the old 1970's flat builders doors typically used at the time. The doors are pre-primed and have a wood grain look to them. Just wondering if there are any painting techniques/paint finishes that would minimize the look of the wood grain?
No not really but you could fill the grain if you needed to but it would be a lot of work..
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Hi...I am at the point that I need to paint the doors and frames of my rooms. Would you please tell me where I start? Door or frame first? Also, on my window frames and skirting boards I have used primer then undercoat then 2 coats of gloss enamel. Is this the technique I should use on my frames & doors. I am worried that I will make it too thick and the doors won't close properly. Please help?
Hi Sarah, paint your doors last because you don't want to splash paint on them while painting the door frames. Some times doors will need to planed due to the paint build up, if they are touching now then you will need to plane the edge slightly to allow for the extra coats of paint.
Thank you. That makes sense. I love your videos & appreciate your advice :-)
how tall are you? or are they some huge door frames? lol
Lol never noticed that till I saw your comment!
If I said 6'2 would you believe me, lol
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Why is it when I'm painting wood doors and frames currently with oil based gloss that 30 seconds after painting it on, if I go back over a spot I just did it's peeling off?? The doors have previous paint on from a long time ago. I've cleaned all with sugar soap then wiped it off. I'm lightly sanding (keying) prior to painting
Its hard to say, sounds like it could have needed a harder sand or there could be some chemicals still on the door from cleaning. Also remember if you have a dry brush and go back over what you have done it can take paint off rather than putting it on.
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@@howtopaintinfo think it will be the sugar soap
Was this door on a boat out at sea !
No, just a windy day with the wind howling through the gaps in the windows.
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Thank you!! This was so helpful 😊
I'm glad you found it useful.
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May I know ur door frame is wood or steel ?
Wood.
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Spray is the best finish, you can also use a 4" smooth roller for all flat parts to get away from brush marks, ty
Professionals don't leave brush marks.
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Is your 2 1/2" brush angled or cut straight? Thank you great video as always?
It's a 2 1/2" straight cut brush.
Thank your videos have helped me so much in my business by far the best painting videos on youtube thank you for taking the time to make them and to answer all our questions have a great day. Paul
this is for southern hemisphere doors. for northern hemisphere doors follow all steps as shown in reverse.
lol. correct.
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how do i know if my door will stick or not after i paint?
Let it dry properly and it should be ok.
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Shouldn't we sand the frame first?
Gabriela Luque Yes the frame should be sanded first.
NUCK CHORRIS yep
You don't have to sand it if you buy a primer and paint all in one!
@@jazzbaby6 very true primer & paint all in one works great I use BEHR MARQUIS it stands up to what the company says one coat guaranteed saves lot of the extra work👍
Good to hear you liked it.
The way your glossing the door frame is the right way old school by doing that way your glossing everything inside instead of walking in and out.. a lot of painters now usually do start behind the door and gloss the whole frame inside and outside and continue with the top and side as all one piece so you don’t miss a section
How to paint a door frame on Mt. Everest! The north wind howling wasn’t distracting at all.
What wind.
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What wind.
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good vid buddy how much time will.it take to paint a frame thanks
Depends, water based paint about 15 -20 minutes and oil based just a bit longer.
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Hi,
Which brand of Primer, Sealer, Undercoat do you recommend for new plasterboard?
Cheers.
I prefer dulux professional acrylic sealer undercoat because it sands easier but other mates of mine prefer total prep so it really depends on what you are happy with.
Is that sound the wind?!?
No, there was an exorcism happening in the room.
Haha
Just the wind howling through some small gaps in the windows.
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Weather Report: Sunami Advisory to your area.
Painter: Wonderful!! I think, I'm going to do a RUclips tutorial! 😆
Just another day in paradise. lol
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Thank you for sharing! I'm trying to paint wood window sash with oil base paint and have a hard time with it. I'm not clear on the technique in using brush with oil base paint hope you could help. I though that you suppose to go only one direction with your brush but I saw that you did go back & ford with your brush. When I did this, it caused a lot of brush marks.
Its ok to apply the paint in multiple directions but you must lay off in one direction.
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What kind of paint are you using? Is it a trim paint? If so, do you thin it at all? I loathe trim paint, even after thinning. No flow, no coverage (unless white on white), no stretch, gums up too quickly, you name it.
+Von Milash I'm using Dulux Semi Gloss Enamel, oil based. I try to use it straight from the can but I will thin slightly after I have painted a few frames due to evaporation. I think one of the biggest problems for people using oil based paints is that they don't apply enough paint or they apply too much and don't brush it out enough.
howtopaintinfo Yep, I'm just gonna start using semi gloss enamel. And oil is great for leveling.
Thanks for the video. Always informative
Good to hear.
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I still have lots to do but it's finding the time and location to do them.
What's the weird noise?
Just a little breeze coming through the windows.
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I love you very much! Super helpful.
You're welcome!
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This video is really helpful, thanks! I'm redecorating my newly purchased flat and need to repaint all doors. :D
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good work keep it up brother of the brush.....
thanks
Great video. Thank you!
Thanks.
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Nice Video. Thank you.
No worries.
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Great video!!!
Thanks.
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You do the inside first, then the back band, then the face. If you do the back band first the pant may dry and leave stimple on the face. If you do the face first you'll mess or up doing the inside and back band
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It is a 63 mm or 2 1/2 inch brush.
Somehow you made painting a door jamb sound like a breeze. 😄
Well there are worse things to paint.
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Honestly I'm just gonna do what I want in my rooms but this looks cool too
Using paint is a good idea.
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Love the videos
Good to hear..
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Foam rollers work well to get rid of stipple
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Thanks very much for the videos 😄
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way easier doing all frames first before walls so its easier to cut down the wall by the door frame thats my painters tip lol
+reed jr Bennett LOL...You're kidding right? It's ceilings, walls, windows, doors, base...If you paint your frames first you'll just be painting them again because if you're any kind of painter you'll get drips from the walls and ceilings...
godbluffvdgg that's what tape is for. I would never paint in the order you said.
reed jr Bennett 😂😂😂keep that tip to yourself haha
godbluffvdgg wrong. Ceilings,then trim(crown,frames and doors),then walls. I do baseboards last. Same concept of painting frames before walls. Easier to paint a nice straight line on the baseboards to a freshly painted wall than the other way.Actually a lot faster too. And if your any kind of painter you won't be splattering paint every damn where when rolling walls or ceilings. Lol. In the 20 years I've been painting,using this process I was taught at a union based paint company I've never had any issues. A process that no doubt goes back a long time. Lol
reed jr Bennett .. I agree 🖒
Also always brush off edges never paint into an edge to avoid paint build up and runs, ty
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No tape?! WOW!!
I'm really struggling between with the edges. I try tape but sometimes it feels the paint off the wall. Really pisses me off honestly lol