Hello. We purchased your holders and files to make this grid. After a bit of struggle and reading the comments I was able to figure out how to get the grid printed. I was curious if you could do a video actually showing how to utilize the grid with lightburn and how to set up projects?
I don't know who you are buster. Or where you are. But, buster, you are the bomb. Intelligent explanation with a small reason for settings included in your walkthrough. Well done. Hit the sub button already.
If you don't have the laser in person yet you may want to wait until you have it so that you can use the trial version for 30 days with the laser hooked up. It really depends on your needs if you will even need Lightburn or be ok with the Xtool Creative Space hardware. I am a fan of Lightburn and if you check out my channel I have a whole video of how to use it but since you still can only update the firmware and other things from Creative space I would recommend hooking that up first before moving over to Lightburn.
any chance you can do a video on all the different types of wood you can engrave not cut. I'm in the UK and the quality and selection of wood in this country is very minimal unless you pay a lot of money.
Even if I would have the same wood as you there are many other factors that can affect the way they engrave or cut. The best way to know how a particular material will perform with your machine is to do a power/speed test on it and see what those values are. You can either make your own tests or checkout the files section on the XTool Facebook group where there are a bunch that you can download and try out.
Should it be in "Score" or "Engrave?" When I click on engrave, it lights up the whole board as if it is going to engrave the negative space rather than the lines.
Hey, bought the files for the D1 20w. I Made the feet perfectly, if not a little scorched :), however I can't seem to frame the grid correctly. Any ideas?
Hello. First be sure that you read the read me first document in the folder. It goes over additional information on how to properly burn the grid. Also if you have one of the newer 2.0 versions of the machine (the one with the emergency stop button) and you are using XTool creative space then you need to use the file in the 2.0 folder in the XCS folder. XTool changed the workable area of the 2.0 machine for some odd reason to be smaller so I had to make a specific grid just for that one.
If I burn the grid in creative space will it work with light burn? - will the home button go to the grid upper right hand coordinate or do I need to do something else to zero the home in light burn?
The home position in both should be the same, top left. This grids are also identical in both programs so they should work the same with the same coordinates and positions.
I keep getting the “the element is placed outside of the processing area”. When I hit go to Process. Figured it out I need to resize the grid to fit the mat. As you stated they made the pro a little smaller working area.
Make sure you are using one of the grids in the 2.0 folder if you have one of the newer machines. xTool keeps making the workable area of their machines smaller in the software for some odd reason. If you use the one labeled for 40W it should work, even if you have the 20W laser the 4W grid is a little shorter so I can't see how they could make the workable area smaller then that.
You should not change the size of the grid in the software or it will not work. Be sure to open the 2.0 version of the file if you are using creative space. It's in the Creative Space folder.
do you have a file to make the foot brackets? This is epic but I need to cut the 5 mil ply to make them. Having a hard time making it in Xtools software.
Your Grid is great for engraving; however, how do you keep from destroying spoilboards during laser cutting? It would seem I would have to replace the spoil boards (I know, that's what they are for) and reprint the grids rather frequently if I do a lot of laser cutting of materials. I guess I could use the Honeycomb for cutting and the spoil board for engraving - or is there a better way I am not thinking of?
I always use a honeycomb when cutting with a metal sheet under it. I don't use the grid while cutting, only engraving. You want a honeycomb not to only protect your spoilboard but also to add air under your part for a more a efficient cut without a lot of charring under your part.
Keep up the great work. I'm new to Xtool and currently using the xTool Creative Space. and the Grid file is going to be a game changer in all future projects. Can't wait to learn more from you.
For some odd reason they changed the firmware on the 2.0 to have a different workable area even though the frame size and laser are the same. It reached out to the company to tell them to fix that but I guess they haven’t. The files will work in Lightburn but might be too big in creative space. Reach out to me on Etsy messages and I can send you a smaller grid that should still work with 2.0.
Essentially the file works the same except you no longer have to trick XCS into thinking there is a box in the top left corner to use absolute coordinates. It’s just a check box. If you check out my channel I recently released a new updated video on XCS for the D1 that you can check out. I go over it in that video.
I downloaded the Etsy file twice (paid for both times) How do I get the Creative Space to open/download to Creative Space? I am currently having trouble with my D1 reading Light Burn. dot xcs file only shows the image. It does not allow me to open cut, speed etc.
Please help cant find related post, Bought files last night, turned to laser spot and clicked off limit switch but there is still about 15mm hanging off bottom of artboard once I connect my device. D1 pro 2.0 with ra2 attachment. Tried both xcs, and lightburn
It sounds like they may have changed the workable area of the 2.0 for some odd reason. I would suggest picking the 40W version since it’s shorter and the rest of the grid would still be the same.
@@BusterBeagle3D thank you! I opened the 40w file and ran the frame feature looks like it'll work. Tried opening a couple different versions but not the 40, can't thank you enough for the fast response and expertise
First thing is that you lose 16mm of workable space with your laser because the module has to move over by that amount to show you where the laser should be starting from. The second is really the accuracy. There is no better indication of where the laser actually is then the beam itself. There are ways to adjust the offset of the laser in both XSC and Lightburn which just goes to show you how there can be discrepancies with the amount of offset the crosshairs actually is. It’s a neat idea but just leaves too much room for error when actually using it.
The only difference is that if using XSC you no longer have to use my AbsouteCoordinate file to trick XCS into thinking there is a little box at the (0,0) position. You should be able to simply place your art, set the machine to use the absolute coordinate checkbox and the use the laser.
Hi I have purchased your files for the feet and grid from Etsy. I have made the feet with no issues but when i am attempting to create the waste board grid i get the following error message . " the element is outside of the processing area." I have the XTool D1 Pro 20W with the emergency stop. I am using the file under the XTool 2 folder. The open file has red print X410 Y 380. I am usingf Xtool creative space which now has absolute coordinates, I am a newby to this hobby so not sure how to resolve. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Michael
Not sure if xTool has shrunk the workable area again but if they have then choose the one that says it's for the 40W machine. The coordinates will be the same but the grid will be a little shorter so it should work. Reach out to me on Etsy if that doesn't solve your issue as I will see that faster then these messages.
@@BusterBeagle3D The 40w file opened without the same error message i will burn the waste board next weekend and reply if it was successful. Thank you for your help it is very much appreciated.
Just make sure you are opening the file and not importing it if you are using Lightburn. Unless the workable area has changed the 20W file should work.
I'm assuming you mean Lightburn and these grids should correspond to the grid in there. First you need to make sure you are using mm in Lightburn and also that you are OPENing the file and not IMPORTing it. Importing might place the grid in the wrong location.
@@BusterBeagle3D If I import a picture and say line it up at 120-200 X and 80- 160 Y it's nowhere close. MM are in place. Are you saying that to have your grid be accurate that I must import a picture, make a file into Laserburn, save it and then call it up to burn?
Alarm keeps going off when the machine moves far left and everything stops!!! I know Im just a novice.....but thats why i PAID for this grid. Help!!! im frustrated and not impressed
Yes you can. However if you were to place artwork towards the right edge of the machine you might not be able to frame since the crosshair is offset by about 16mm and might not be able to reach there with the crosshairs. I would highly recommend using the laser itself as your pointer when framing. It's much more accurate in knowing exactly where your laser is going to be working.
with my D1 pro 2.0 10W when utilizing the spoil board a 50mm circle centered on the xls work space using the centering button does not match center on the spoil board.
Correct. xTool has changed the workable area multiple times in the XSC software for the various versions of the D1. Sometimes the actual workable area can’t even be reached. The grid was built so that you could actually reach the points on it which might not always match centers with creative space.
Absolute coordinates is greyed out when selecting the extended laser instead of laser flat. I am wondering if I could use "Laser Flat" when my machine is actually setup as an extended machine... until such time as Creative Space adds absolute coordinate functionality for the extended version. I am aware that the Laser Flat will only "see" half the bed size, but for smaller projects I could live with that. Or, will LightBurn solve this issue for me - I have LightBurn but have not set it up yet.
Yes. Lightburn can choose absolute coordinates by default so you can use that if you like. You can still use absolute coordinates with the extension in XSC but from what you are telling me you will need to do it the old school way I show in the video by using the little square in the top left corner. It’s the way all XSC files worked before they added the absolute coordinates checkbox.
Hello. I'm not sure what a XD 140 is but if you meant the D1 Pro with the extension I do have a file for that. busterbeagle3d.etsy.com/listing/1281256993
I love the concept and I use the same system on my cnc from X-Carve. But I have here the S1 Pro 20W, I do the frame and it moves all around without any issues. But when I press start to burn your program, I ring the alarm before even moving off the home position. Anything I missed ?
I’m sorry I missed this. I’m sure you have figured it out by now but be sure to read the Read me First text file in the zip folder. It should help you with your issue.
Greeting Mr Beagle. Incredible videos! Thank you. Question, I have a xtool d1 10w non pro. When I hit the home button it hits the back left frame and makes a terrible noise. Any thoughts on what I’m doing wrong?? Thank you again! You have a new sub.
Hello. Unfortunately there are no limit switches on the non-pro D1 machines. If you want to home the machine you will have to find a manual way to do it. I suggest this tool. www.thingiverse.com/thing:5274995 Thanks for watching!
Hi. I purchased the 3D feet, and was supposed to get the grid patterns along with the purchase....I don't have them, and I cannot find where to download them. Can you help me? Thanks
Hi Harold, reach out to me on the messages tab on Etsy and I'll get you squared away. I can't find an order under this name but perhaps the Etsy name was different.
HI, I bought the Pattern and feet. Got it all set up I have the D1 Pro 20w with the RA2 Pro. I frame it no issues. As soon as I go to start the engraving it hits a limit switch and stops. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
Got you on Etsy but for everyone else be sure to read the "Read Me First" file in the folder that goes over turning those switches off to burn the grid.
Absolute zero! It has been my "Khan" since I got my D1. I'm generally happy with the laser because I don't know any better but not being able to determine your start point based on machine zero seems like something that I wish I had understood before I bought it. I've been using the native xtool software and it's ok but severely limited. I did buy lightburn and it seems that you demonstrate that I will have that homing power for the D1. Is that correct?
The original D1 without limit switches will not home in the software. You can use a manual tool to find the home position on the original however and still use absolute coordinates and my grid. I recommend this one: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5274995
Make sure nothing accidentally shifted or that your workable area is correct. If you are using Lightburn you can open the preview and it should show you which line isn’t going to burn. That is the one that’s over the line for reason. Sometimes even being exactly on the line makes it think it’s over. I have also noticed that if you are using inches instead of mm it could potentially have this issue as well.
just an FYI. I purchased a D1 Pro Red last December. It was a 10W model, but it appears to have the "larger" laser frame with the white outlet like used on the 20W model. I burned the grid using the Creative Space 5-10w NoRotary file and it errored out halfway through (hit max Y limit switch) even though it passed framing no problem. I had to redo with 20w grid.
Be sure to read the Read Me First file in the zip folder. It has additional information needed to burn the grid properly including turning those limit switches off.
Hello. I purchased your grid pattern and for some reason it keeps triggering the limit sensor alarm on the Y axis at the bottom right. Any chance you’d know how to fix this ?
Hi. I purchased the grid from you and got it on the board. Maybe I missed it, but when I'm done engraving the grid do I now leave it on absolute coordinates or move it back to relative coordinates?
This grid is all absolute coordinates. You simply need to keep it on that and home the laser incase you ever either move the laser by hand or turn the machine off. Once you home the laser it will be at 0,0 of the absolute coordinates and know exactly where it's absolute coordinates are.
Hey Ryan, I purchased your grid on Etsy. I ran the program and it only burned the grid on the left upper, the circles, and all the numbers on the program. What could be the problem?
Just make sure that you are reading the "Read Me First" text file in the grid folder. It has extra info in there for burning the grid. Also if you are using Lightburn make sure you are opening the file and not importing it. Importing could cause weird issues to arise.
Most honeycombs come with a bottom metal sheet prevents the laser from reaching any spoilboard. The gird is more intended for lining up engravings rather then for cutting. It can help to keep your honeycomb square to the laser but that's really about it.
I downloaded your files for the waste board but the two files I’m seeing for the 10wpro both look like the are in mm and can’t seam to find the one for inches? I’m sure I’m doing something wrong so could you point me in the right direction. Thank you
You are not seeing anything wrong. Many people including myself use mm when using a laser cutters or engravers as it's a much easier to understand for many. Even though I am in the US I use mm for all 3D modeling, laser engraving, and 3D printing.
If you are using the grid you just make sure you manually move the laser to the middle line of the grid or move it there first before you unplug the motor and use the rotary. That way when you line the RA2 Pro to the lines on the gird you will know that the laser module is in the very center of whatever roller configuration you are using.
I just bought the file off Esty to burn into a spoil board. I picked the right file for the D1 Pro 20W with the R2a Rotary and the extension kit. Every time I frame it, it frames fine (ran the framing 4 times). When I run it to burn after framing multiple times it will hit a hard limit when it gets to the first line on the X axis, it starts in the center and then runs to the side where it gets the alarm to go off and stops burning. how do I fix this?
Hello sir, getting ready to purchase your grid. One question that I have (Maybe a dumb question) Is how you use the honeycomb with the grid (in the event you want to cut something and do not want to hurt the grid).
Many honeycombs come with a metal sheet to place below them so that you are not burning below the honeycomb. I'm not sure which one you have but every one I have purchased has come with the extra sheet. No damage happens to the grid then.
My laser is having an issue in lightburn and creative space anytime I try to home/center the laser. It goes to the top left corner but will not stop trying to push further, and is making a pretty loud sound because the belts wont stop. Do you have any idea why this is happening or how I can fix it?
If you have the pro version of the machine with limit switches you need to either check and see if the limit sensors are plugged in a and in good condition and second that there is not a part of the wire loom that is getting in the way and preventing the laser module from reaching back far enough to trigger the sensor. 9 out of 10 times it's a wire loom that is getting caught between the frame and the laser module. If you don't have a Pro version of the D1 then there are not limit switches and you should refrain from pressing that button. Instead you can find a manual way to home your machine by using a tool such as this: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5274995
Make sure you laser can home properly at the beginning and that there are no wires or anything else getting in the way of the of the gantry homing. Also be sure to read the "read me first" file in the zip folder for additional instructions
Is there anywhere to get help with this. I ended up running the grid in creative space. When I tried it in lightburn, I did everything as you stated in the video. It would frame perfectly, framed it several times just to make sure. As soon as I hit start the limit switch would trip and the machine would stop and alarm. I am at a loss because it frames perfectly I've tried it several times and all end the same. Frames without a problem, as soon as I hit the start it alarms and stops. I made the file in creative space but being new to this I don't know if the measurements will all come out the same to use that grid for lightburn now that it's engraved into the wood.
Hello. Be sure to read the "Read Me First" document in the folder. It has extra instructions in there how to properly burn the grid including disabling those limit switches.
Hello. If you are using Creative space you can turn in on in the Process window. If you are using Lightburn you enable it under EDIT> DeviceSettings and turn on Enable laser fire button and Laser on while Framing. Be sure to adjust the "Fire" button percentage under the MOVE tab to something not too high that it burns while framing.
I am going to purchase this grid pattern but have one question about its use. It will be fine for engraving coasters and other items that can be positioned on the board, but what about cutting. If i use the grid to position my board and then make a cutout it will ruin the waste board grid.
Correct. When cutting I like you use a honeycomb board to protect my spoil board and get better results. I still use the grid to try to keep the honeycomb square but still have to rely on the laser outline in this case to be able to register the position. When cutting I rarely use absolute coordinates, it's more a case for Start from current position for me.
So...I have the D1 Pro and made all the changes in settings as per the Read Me First file. However....I ran the first burn and all seemed to go well. I decided to run it again to darken it a bit and it burned the next pass approximately 3 mm to the right. I ran it again and it was off once again. Any ideas as to what's happening? After cutting a new board and starting the process over again....(leaving all settings the same) it has now decided to mark 3 mm's towards the bottom.
This sounds like something mechanical is happening as long as you are using absolute coordinates and homing each time. I would also check and make sure the wire loom on the back of the gantry is not getting in the way when you are homing the laser. It's somewhat in a bad spot and might be pushing back on the laser after it homes as this wire sometimes bounces off of the back of the frame.
Good evening, thank you for the very informative detailed video. I was wondering if the grid would work just as well with the 5W D1Pro? Thanks in. advance for your response.
I bought the file from Etsy. Thank you for sharing. Which file for the grid would I use? I have a D!pro 20w with the rotary tool. I have3 no way of knowing if the new rotary tool I have is shorter or longer than the other. Mine is kg02005400 ( the only partnumber I could find on the box. it is 9-1/2" long
If it was the older rotary the rollers are marked in their size on the top of the machine for the different roller sizes. If it’s the RA2 Pro they are marked A, B, C. Plus the RA2 Pro comes with a Chuck and the older version does not.
Hello, i have the grid downloaded and burned into my spoilboard, its great, thank you! One thing i'm not entirely clear on is when you say an image should be “Offset by the proper amount” for the laser to know where it is - what exactly do you mean? i tried a few things but the laser head mostly freaked out at the home position as it it was trying to access and area outside of the working area! Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated! :)
Hello. It just means that once you home the laser if you intend to burn an image at the 200X 200Y coordinate you should be able to know exactly where that is after burning the grid. If you know that the top left corner of your image is at that 200,200 position you just place your wood accordingly on that spot and your image should burn right where you intended it to.
The settings may vary based on your own laser power but if you OPEN the files instead of importing in Lightburn the settings should come in already. If you are using XCS then choose the basswood setting.
Absolute coordinates are a grid system that you laser uses to know where it's position is in relation to the home position which is at (Y0, X0) or in other words "Absolute Zero" When you home the laser your machine knows that it's at (0,0) so if you place art in the software at X100, Y100 the laser knows that it has to move left 100mm and froward 100mm to reach that coordinate. That's how you can make use of a burned grid on a spoil board to place your wood onto and know exactly where it's going to be marked on.
I’m new. Still waiting on the arrival of mine. I ordered the honeycomb trays and extended frame. First, how do we keep from burning the grid up when doing projects and is there a grid for the extension frame??
The grid is better for alignment for engraving then it is for cutting. I use my honeycomb on the grid when I cut but there is also a metal sheet under it.
Yes it will. However you will need to figure out a way to home the machine since the are no limit switches. I recommend this tool: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5274995
GREAT VIDEOS...I soooo new to all this my head is spinning...I have a d1 pro 5w and still learning...any idea where I can see a step by step on how to do speed test and power tests for a 5w for NWT ...slates and to laser photos on slate & wood...sooooo confusing..
Clean the tile with acetone, spray paint the tile with spray paint that uses Titanium dioxide. I use Rustoleum 2X ivory I believe. Then run a power speed test and look at the results. You can even run power speed tests with images. Check out my latest video on XCS for the S1 at around the 27 minute mark. It’s a different machine but the that part of the software is the same no matter which machine you use. xTool Creative Space Tutorial | S1 Edition ruclips.net/video/fLAqB9hUeH8/видео.html
I got the pro20 and now it will not respond and the stop switch light is not on .I been trying to contact xtool with no respond to find out how to get it fix.It says no usb connect with it hook up
I would restart both the machine and your computer. Sometimes the driver on your computer can get out of wack. Once it’s back up if it isn’t working I would check your device manager on your pc and make sure it’s registering that the USB device is being recognized. If it’s something outside of that I’m a little at a loss. Otherwise I would make sure you are using XSC and see if you can connect to the machine over Wi-Fi.
@@antennasbc Be sure to read the "Read Me First" file in the zip folder. It goes over extra steps to successfully burn your grid including turning those limit switch alarms off.
@@BusterBeagle3D ok I did read that. I thought limit switches were optional. I'll turn them off. Also should both software burn the grid in the same place? As they do not, they are 5mm off between the two in the vertical lines.
@@BusterBeagle3D ok, si tried again and it burned fine. I turned off the limit switches, and back to Lightburn and burned it. Seemed ok. Limits back on. Now when I tell it to go to a spot it's off 5mm in the X. Everywhere. What would cause that?
many thanks for the good video. I will download your file. and thank you very much for the tip with the dot at the starting point at creative space! ingeniously simple, simply ingenious
Going to order today! Question I have though, do you not use a honeycomb? Also, how do you prevent damage to the grid/board? Or is this meant to be used only a few times before burning a new one? Finally, does the Etsy file have the settings built in?
I do use a honeycomb when cutting so I don't use the grid at those times. There are settings that come with the girds but they may need to be tweaked based on your laser / wood/ environment etc but they should be close. It is called a "Spoil board" for a reason so it can get messed up but as long as you can still read it you should be fine before you have to burn a new one.
I bought this Grid File for my Xtool D1 Pro 10 watt. I love the idea. Problem is probably my xtool D1 Pro 10 watt. The first run was very light with the settings that are in the program. I then put the laser back inhome position and then ran this grid 3 times to get darker lines. You guessed it. I have 4 lines, Horizontally and Vertically . The circles are all close at the top of the circles, but further apart on the lower part of the circles. How can I make sure my machine is setup properly. I have installed the feet and they are solid. Any help would be appreciated. I am a newbie
Make sure your belts are nice and tight and that if you are using Lightburn you are using absolute coordinates. If you your home is working correctly and there is no play in the belts the laser should be starting in the exact same spot each time.
The listing for the grid includes a few versions for the 20W laser. The download actually includes 12 versions of the grid depending on which laser you have and which program you intend to use.
Hi, I purchased the grid, I used the D1pro with the original rotary tool. I think I did something incorrect, the grid is about a half inch to the left of the grid when I home the laser. I'm not sure how it did that, I framed the laser with the grid several times to make sure it was in the right spot. The limit switches are off, and when I frame the grid the laser hits the frame near the button. I know I missed something, I doubt this is correct. Is there any information you can give to help guide me to solving this issue? Thanks so much! Great videos!
Did you also turn off the red crosshairs before burning the grid? If you were using Lightburn there is also a pointer offset that you need to turn off in the Device Settings.
@@BusterBeagle3D I have disabled the crosshairs and I've also disabled the limit switches. I've created a more detailed post to give more details, thanks so much for responding.
I just bought regular plywood at Home Depot. Think it was birch but it really doesn't matter. Just needs to be 2x2 ft, I went with half and inch thick.
Got the file today and it worked well! I'm usually doing 1 item at a time so far and have always used "current position" for my projects. Absolute coordinates will take me some time to get used to, but should work good for multiple parts and RA2 projects. Thanks Ryan.
Hello. The ones in there are what I used for the 20W laser on my spoilboard. Depending on the power of your laser and the material of the spoilboard you may need to adjust it slightly.
Hi Buster, love your videos, lots of great information. I am, however, having trouble with my laser/using your file for the spoil board. I keep setting off the outside limit alarm and at one point my timing belts seemed to drag or jump. I had no issue burning the feet or with my previous burns. Any Ideas? My settings in Creative Space are as follows: Move Laser Module Distance 20mm Move Laser Module Speed 50mm/s Origin set to Center Laser Flat Material 3mm Basswood Plywood A4 Processing Path Auto Planning Processing Start Point Absolute Coordinates Sometimes when I press the Framing button it will start burning the last project. I'm at a loss.
Thanks for watching. First be sure to read the read me first document in the folder which goes over turning those limit swithes off. Second be sure to use the files in the 2.0 folder if you have the newer version of the D1. xTool has made the workable area of their machine smaller in their software for some odd reason so you need a smaller grid. If it still seems to not work then use the 40W version in the 2.0 folder as it is the smallest one. It should be the same grid coordinates even if you don't have the 40W machine.
@@BusterBeagle3D WOW! That was FAST! Thanks for getting back to me so quickly, I truly appreciate it! I did manage to get it to work somehow, don't know what I did differently, other than maybe Absolute Coordinates may not have been on originally. It was burning fine for the first 3/4 of the template, but then there seemed to be an issue with the belt again, like a binding. When the job completed, a number of the lines were off and the marks that were meant for the far right corner burnt near the center. I haven't seen anything to indicate that my laser is the 2.0. My software version is 1.78. Again, I appreciate the help.
@@bucksandoes Your machine is a 2.0 if you have an emergency stop button on it. If it hits the frame at any time the rest of the grid will be off. You may need to use a smaller grid and be sure to home again right before you run the job.
@@BusterBeagle3D Definitely not the 2.0. Any thoughts on whats causing the issue with the track or belt? I would assume it was a binding or tension issue, but I set the tensions almost identical on both sides and when I move the gambril and laser head I find no obstructions. I realize these are near impossible questions to answer remotely, but I do appreciate any tips you might have. I have only had this for 3 days and I'm chomping at the bit to put it to good use.
@@bucksandoes The belts should be tight but not in an insane way. Most of the issues I see arise are from the wire loom getting in the way at some point. Also don't forget that you have to tighten the belt along the X axis as well but again not too tight. Lastly make sure you have the connection in the front of the machine right under the xtool name on correctly. If you didn't tighten that coupler correctly it could cause one side to slip and be off from the other side which may make it catch. Other then that it's hard to diagnose without seeing it.
Hey Thanks for the great explanation, I have questions regarding frame button I have an image (svg) which is a semi circle, but when I click the frame shows as rectangular not semi circle
Can I use this grid with my D1 and XCS software? My laser wont connect to laserbox to use your free version. I know the working area is slightly different between the d1 and d1 pro
Yes. It's slightly smaller then the one I made for the original D1 but the size of the machines are the same size. They just list the size of the D1 as larger but that really it shouldn't be that large on either model. The grid will work just fine and is nicer then my original one.
Thanks Ryan for your grid plans and explanation of absolute coordinates. I have the XTool D1 Pro 20 W. The laser offset is disabled. I burned the grid for my machine and note when I set the coordinates X210mm and Y200mm and fire the laser it lines up exactly on X210mm but the Y lines up on Y201mm. I also noted that the vertical grid lines in the lower right quadrant burned 1mm lower than the Y200 line. In lightburn the vertical grid lines all align with Y200mm. Any suggestions. thanks
Only thing I can think of is that the wire loom on the gantry might have pinched between the gantry and the back of the frame at some point during the burn. If it hit and was 1mm off it might be impossible to have noticed but that's why everything is now 1mm lower after that hit. 99% of the issues that I have seen with the grid has to do with that wire loom not being in a great spot. They really should have gone with a drag chain for that wire or changed their homing position to the front left instead of the rear.
Hello. We purchased your holders and files to make this grid. After a bit of struggle and reading the comments I was able to figure out how to get the grid printed. I was curious if you could do a video actually showing how to utilize the grid with lightburn and how to set up projects?
So I have the d1 pro without the emergency stop button aka the 1.0. Will the grid base still work with mine?
Yes. It was made for that version.
I don't know who you are buster. Or where you are. But, buster, you are the bomb. Intelligent explanation with a small reason for settings included in your walkthrough. Well done.
Hit the sub button already.
Ryan. West Coast. Thank you. Welcome to the channel!
Do you have a file for the 10w Xtool D1 Pro that works on Creative Space still trying to figure out Light burn not using it yet
I just got my XTOOL D1Pro 20watt and my question is, do I buy and download light burn on my laptop before I hook up the laser?
If you don't have the laser in person yet you may want to wait until you have it so that you can use the trial version for 30 days with the laser hooked up. It really depends on your needs if you will even need Lightburn or be ok with the Xtool Creative Space hardware. I am a fan of Lightburn and if you check out my channel I have a whole video of how to use it but since you still can only update the firmware and other things from Creative space I would recommend hooking that up first before moving over to Lightburn.
Yeay, great work. Thank you for this nice Video and your Work!
Thank you!
any chance you can do a video on all the different types of wood you can engrave not cut. I'm in the UK and the quality and selection of wood in this country is very minimal unless you pay a lot of money.
Even if I would have the same wood as you there are many other factors that can affect the way they engrave or cut. The best way to know how a particular material will perform with your machine is to do a power/speed test on it and see what those values are. You can either make your own tests or checkout the files section on the XTool Facebook group where there are a bunch that you can download and try out.
You are my hero
Should it be in "Score" or "Engrave?" When I click on engrave, it lights up the whole board as if it is going to engrave the negative space rather than the lines.
It should be score so you only get the lines, not engrave.
@@BusterBeagle3D Thank you!
Hey, bought the files for the D1 20w. I Made the feet perfectly, if not a little scorched :), however I can't seem to frame the grid correctly. Any ideas?
Hello. First be sure that you read the read me first document in the folder. It goes over additional information on how to properly burn the grid. Also if you have one of the newer 2.0 versions of the machine (the one with the emergency stop button) and you are using XTool creative space then you need to use the file in the 2.0 folder in the XCS folder. XTool changed the workable area of the 2.0 machine for some odd reason to be smaller so I had to make a specific grid just for that one.
If I burn the grid in creative space will it work with light burn? - will the home button go to the grid upper right hand coordinate or do I need to do something else to zero the home in light burn?
The home position in both should be the same, top left. This grids are also identical in both programs so they should work the same with the same coordinates and positions.
I keep getting the “the element is placed outside of the processing area”. When I hit go to Process. Figured it out I need to resize the grid to fit the mat. As you stated they made the pro a little smaller working area.
Make sure you are using one of the grids in the 2.0 folder if you have one of the newer machines. xTool keeps making the workable area of their machines smaller in the software for some odd reason. If you use the one labeled for 40W it should work, even if you have the 20W laser the 4W grid is a little shorter so I can't see how they could make the workable area smaller then that.
How do you get this to fit after a software update?? I’ve been trying and trying but should have to increase/decrease the grid to fit the workspace
You should not change the size of the grid in the software or it will not work. Be sure to open the 2.0 version of the file if you are using creative space. It's in the Creative Space folder.
do you have a file to make the foot brackets? This is epic but I need to cut the 5 mil ply to make them. Having a hard time making it in Xtools software.
The files for the foot brackets are in the download from Etsy.
Would this work for the D1 10w?
Your Grid is great for engraving; however, how do you keep from destroying spoilboards during laser cutting? It would seem I would have to replace the spoil boards (I know, that's what they are for) and reprint the grids rather frequently if I do a lot of laser cutting of materials. I guess I could use the Honeycomb for cutting and the spoil board for engraving - or is there a better way I am not thinking of?
I always use a honeycomb when cutting with a metal sheet under it. I don't use the grid while cutting, only engraving. You want a honeycomb not to only protect your spoilboard but also to add air under your part for a more a efficient cut without a lot of charring under your part.
@@BusterBeagle3D Ah, okay. Thanks for the reply!
Keep up the great work. I'm new to Xtool and currently using the xTool Creative Space. and the Grid file is going to be a game changer in all future projects. Can't wait to learn more from you.
Thank you!
When I try to process or frame my grid I get an error saying “Element is placed outside of the processing area.”
For some odd reason they changed the firmware on the 2.0 to have a different workable area even though the frame size and laser are the same. It reached out to the company to tell them to fix that but I guess they haven’t. The files will work in Lightburn but might be too big in creative space. Reach out to me on Etsy messages and I can send you a smaller grid that should still work with 2.0.
I added a Bed extension how do I change the parameters for the new size? I have changed in Lightburn.
Not sure what you mean exactly, are you trying to adjust the regular grid to work with the extension or just general parameters setup?
Is there an update for the XCS version? It has absolute coordinates now but I don't know how to use them.
Essentially the file works the same except you no longer have to trick XCS into thinking there is a box in the top left corner to use absolute coordinates. It’s just a check box. If you check out my channel I recently released a new updated video on XCS for the D1 that you can check out. I go over it in that video.
I downloaded the Etsy file twice (paid for both times) How do I get the Creative Space to open/download to Creative Space? I am currently having trouble with my D1 reading Light Burn. dot xcs file only shows the image. It does not allow me to open cut, speed etc.
Please help cant find related post, Bought files last night, turned to laser spot and clicked off limit switch but there is still about 15mm hanging off bottom of artboard once I connect my device. D1 pro 2.0 with ra2 attachment. Tried both xcs, and lightburn
It sounds like they may have changed the workable area of the 2.0 for some odd reason. I would suggest picking the 40W version since it’s shorter and the rest of the grid would still be the same.
@@BusterBeagle3D thank you! I opened the 40w file and ran the frame feature looks like it'll work. Tried opening a couple different versions but not the 40, can't thank you enough for the fast response and expertise
Thanks Ryan, can you explain why we need to change the crosshairs to the laser spot - what is the benefits, etc.
First thing is that you lose 16mm of workable space with your laser because the module has to move over by that amount to show you where the laser should be starting from. The second is really the accuracy. There is no better indication of where the laser actually is then the beam itself. There are ways to adjust the offset of the laser in both XSC and Lightburn which just goes to show you how there can be discrepancies with the amount of offset the crosshairs actually is. It’s a neat idea but just leaves too much room for error when actually using it.
@@BusterBeagle3D thanks, that makes total sense.
Hi! We have a D1 Pro here, bought recently. I understand XCS now has an absolute setting. What does that option change for your explanation? Thanks!
The only difference is that if using XSC you no longer have to use my AbsouteCoordinate file to trick XCS into thinking there is a little box at the (0,0) position. You should be able to simply place your art, set the machine to use the absolute coordinate checkbox and the use the laser.
@@BusterBeagle3D Excellent, thanks!
Hello, will your grid work with the D1 Pro 40W?
Yes. There is a version in there for the 40W
Can I change my home position setting from 0,0 to 1,1 and if so how? Thank you
Hi I have purchased your files for the feet and grid from Etsy. I have made the feet with no issues but when i am attempting to create the waste board grid i get the following error message . " the element is outside of the processing area." I have the XTool D1 Pro 20W with the emergency stop. I am using the file under the XTool 2 folder. The open file has red print X410 Y 380. I am usingf Xtool creative space which now has absolute coordinates, I am a newby to this hobby so not sure how to resolve. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Michael
Not sure if xTool has shrunk the workable area again but if they have then choose the one that says it's for the 40W machine. The coordinates will be the same but the grid will be a little shorter so it should work. Reach out to me on Etsy if that doesn't solve your issue as I will see that faster then these messages.
@@BusterBeagle3D The 40w file opened without the same error message i will burn the waste board next weekend and reply if it was successful. Thank you for your help it is very much appreciated.
When you press Process you will get a question to adjust to YOUR machine. Then it will work
I recently bought an xtools d1 and when I'm in process part of creative space there is no centering button
my file says some parts is outside of the range on the 20W
Just make sure you are opening the file and not importing it if you are using Lightburn. Unless the workable area has changed the 20W file should work.
Do you have files for the Xtool D1 Pro 40W?
The Etsy package has different files for the different laser wattages including the 40W.
hello, when I'm opening the file D1Pro_20W_RA2ProExtended.lbrn2 its opening rectangle not square, what I'm doing wrong?
Check your Etsy messages. You purchased the extension rail version. I sent you the original version you need.
This is a really great video, thank you so much for sharing🙂!!
Where do I find the file to cut the feet for the spoil board?
Hi. It’s part of the package you get from Etsy in the video description.
Why don't the numbers on the grid coordinate with the numbers on the laserburn grid?
I'm assuming you mean Lightburn and these grids should correspond to the grid in there. First you need to make sure you are using mm in Lightburn and also that you are OPENing the file and not IMPORTing it. Importing might place the grid in the wrong location.
@@BusterBeagle3D If I import a picture and say line it up at 120-200 X and 80- 160 Y it's nowhere close. MM are in place. Are you saying that to have your grid be accurate that I must import a picture, make a file into Laserburn, save it and then call it up to burn?
Do these files also work with the d1 pro 40w?
Yes! There is a file in there for the 40W as well.
i have a question how do you get the software to delete a file if accidently hit process
Alarm keeps going off when the machine moves far left and everything stops!!! I know Im just a novice.....but thats why i PAID for this grid. Help!!! im frustrated and not impressed
Be sure to read the Read Me First file in the folder. It goes over the proper way to use the grid including turning off that alarm.
Is it ok to turn the cross hairs and limit switches back on to use your grid after creating the grid?
Yes you can. However if you were to place artwork towards the right edge of the machine you might not be able to frame since the crosshair is offset by about 16mm and might not be able to reach there with the crosshairs. I would highly recommend using the laser itself as your pointer when framing. It's much more accurate in knowing exactly where your laser is going to be working.
@@BusterBeagle3D thank you
One more question, i will be doing most of the cutting,so how can I prevent the grid . I mean any other solution?
with my D1 pro 2.0 10W when utilizing the spoil board a 50mm circle centered on the xls work space using the centering button does not match center on the spoil board.
Correct. xTool has changed the workable area multiple times in the XSC software for the various versions of the D1. Sometimes the actual workable area can’t even be reached. The grid was built so that you could actually reach the points on it which might not always match centers with creative space.
Absolute coordinates is greyed out when selecting the extended laser instead of laser flat. I am wondering if I could use "Laser Flat" when my machine is actually setup as an extended machine... until such time as Creative Space adds absolute coordinate functionality for the extended version. I am aware that the Laser Flat will only "see" half the bed size, but for smaller projects I could live with that. Or, will LightBurn solve this issue for me - I have LightBurn but have not set it up yet.
Yes. Lightburn can choose absolute coordinates by default so you can use that if you like. You can still use absolute coordinates with the extension in XSC but from what you are telling me you will need to do it the old school way I show in the video by using the little square in the top left corner. It’s the way all XSC files worked before they added the absolute coordinates checkbox.
do you offer a spoil board layout for Tool pro XD 140 watt with the extension kit?
Hello. I'm not sure what a XD 140 is but if you meant the D1 Pro with the extension I do have a file for that. busterbeagle3d.etsy.com/listing/1281256993
@@BusterBeagle3D sorry, xTool D1 pro 40 watt with extensions.
I love the concept and I use the same system on my cnc from X-Carve.
But I have here the S1 Pro 20W, I do the frame and it moves all around without any issues. But when I press start to burn your program, I ring the alarm before even moving off the home position. Anything I missed ?
I’m sorry I missed this. I’m sure you have figured it out by now but be sure to read the Read me First text file in the zip folder. It should help you with your issue.
Greeting Mr Beagle. Incredible videos! Thank you. Question, I have a xtool d1 10w non pro. When I hit the home button it hits the back left frame and makes a terrible noise. Any thoughts on what I’m doing wrong?? Thank you again! You have a new sub.
Hello. Unfortunately there are no limit switches on the non-pro D1 machines. If you want to home the machine you will have to find a manual way to do it. I suggest this tool. www.thingiverse.com/thing:5274995
Thanks for watching!
Hi.
I purchased the 3D feet, and was supposed to get the grid patterns along with the purchase....I don't have them, and I cannot find where to download them.
Can you help me? Thanks
Hi Harold, reach out to me on the messages tab on Etsy and I'll get you squared away. I can't find an order under this name but perhaps the Etsy name was different.
HI, I bought the Pattern and feet. Got it all set up I have the D1 Pro 20w with the RA2 Pro. I frame it no issues. As soon as I go to start the engraving it hits a limit switch and stops. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
Got you on Etsy but for everyone else be sure to read the "Read Me First" file in the folder that goes over turning those switches off to burn the grid.
Absolute zero! It has been my "Khan" since I got my D1. I'm generally happy with the laser because I don't know any better but not being able to determine your start point based on machine zero seems like something that I wish I had understood before I bought it. I've been using the native xtool software and it's ok but severely limited. I did buy lightburn and it seems that you demonstrate that I will have that homing power for the D1. Is that correct?
The original D1 without limit switches will not home in the software. You can use a manual tool to find the home position on the original however and still use absolute coordinates and my grid. I recommend this one: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5274995
I have an xtool pro 10 watt/RA2 PRO
When I do this it says the element is placed out of the processing area
What do I do?
Make sure nothing accidentally shifted or that your workable area is correct. If you are using Lightburn you can open the preview and it should show you which line isn’t going to burn. That is the one that’s over the line for reason. Sometimes even being exactly on the line makes it think it’s over. I have also noticed that if you are using inches instead of mm it could potentially have this issue as well.
just an FYI. I purchased a D1 Pro Red last December. It was a 10W model, but it appears to have the "larger" laser frame with the white outlet like used on the 20W model. I burned the grid using the Creative Space 5-10w NoRotary file and it errored out halfway through (hit max Y limit switch) even though it passed framing no problem. I had to redo with 20w grid.
Be sure to read the Read Me First file in the zip folder. It has additional information needed to burn the grid properly including turning those limit switches off.
Hello. I purchased your grid pattern and for some reason it keeps triggering the limit sensor alarm on the Y axis at the bottom right. Any chance you’d know how to fix this ?
Be sure to read the Read Me First document in the folder. It has additional instructions including turning that alarm off.
Hi. I purchased the grid from you and got it on the board. Maybe I missed it, but when I'm done engraving the grid do I now leave it on absolute coordinates or move it back to relative coordinates?
This grid is all absolute coordinates. You simply need to keep it on that and home the laser incase you ever either move the laser by hand or turn the machine off. Once you home the laser it will be at 0,0 of the absolute coordinates and know exactly where it's absolute coordinates are.
Hey Ryan, I purchased your grid on Etsy. I ran the program and it only burned the grid on the left upper, the circles, and all the numbers on the program. What could be the problem?
Just make sure that you are reading the "Read Me First" text file in the grid folder. It has extra info in there for burning the grid. Also if you are using Lightburn make sure you are opening the file and not importing it. Importing could cause weird issues to arise.
I will be getting a 20w 2-in-1! What type of board do you recommend that won't burn with honeycomb on using blue/red?
Most honeycombs come with a bottom metal sheet prevents the laser from reaching any spoilboard. The gird is more intended for lining up engravings rather then for cutting. It can help to keep your honeycomb square to the laser but that's really about it.
I downloaded your files for the waste board but the two files I’m seeing for the 10wpro both look like the are in mm and can’t seam to find the one for inches? I’m sure I’m doing something wrong so could you point me in the right direction. Thank you
You are not seeing anything wrong. Many people including myself use mm when using a laser cutters or engravers as it's a much easier to understand for many. Even though I am in the US I use mm for all 3D modeling, laser engraving, and 3D printing.
When using the RA Pro Rotary attachment how do you use absolute coordinates if you have to unplug the Y-stepper motor?
If you are using the grid you just make sure you manually move the laser to the middle line of the grid or move it there first before you unplug the motor and use the rotary. That way when you line the RA2 Pro to the lines on the gird you will know that the laser module is in the very center of whatever roller configuration you are using.
Thank you sir… this video has helped me a lot getting started
I just bought the file off Esty to burn into a spoil board. I picked the right file for the D1 Pro 20W with the R2a Rotary and the extension kit. Every time I frame it, it frames fine (ran the framing 4 times). When I run it to burn after framing multiple times it will hit a hard limit when it gets to the first line on the X axis, it starts in the center and then runs to the side where it gets the alarm to go off and stops burning. how do I fix this?
Please read the Read Me First file in the zip folder. It goes over setup instructions to burn the grid successfully.
Hello sir, getting ready to purchase your grid. One question that I have (Maybe a dumb question) Is how you use the honeycomb with the grid (in the event you want to cut something and do not want to hurt the grid).
Many honeycombs come with a metal sheet to place below them so that you are not burning below the honeycomb. I'm not sure which one you have but every one I have purchased has come with the extra sheet. No damage happens to the grid then.
My laser is having an issue in lightburn and creative space anytime I try to home/center the laser. It goes to the top left corner but will not stop trying to push further, and is making a pretty loud sound because the belts wont stop. Do you have any idea why this is happening or how I can fix it?
If you have the pro version of the machine with limit switches you need to either check and see if the limit sensors are plugged in a and in good condition and second that there is not a part of the wire loom that is getting in the way and preventing the laser module from reaching back far enough to trigger the sensor. 9 out of 10 times it's a wire loom that is getting caught between the frame and the laser module.
If you don't have a Pro version of the D1 then there are not limit switches and you should refrain from pressing that button. Instead you can find a manual way to home your machine by using a tool such as this: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5274995
The file I bought skips right on top when I start burning it. It jumps 10mm on y. I can send a video if that helps
Make sure you laser can home properly at the beginning and that there are no wires or anything else getting in the way of the of the gantry homing. Also be sure to read the "read me first" file in the zip folder for additional instructions
Is there anywhere to get help with this. I ended up running the grid in creative space. When I tried it in lightburn, I did everything as you stated in the video. It would frame perfectly, framed it several times just to make sure. As soon as I hit start the limit switch would trip and the machine would stop and alarm. I am at a loss because it frames perfectly I've tried it several times and all end the same. Frames without a problem, as soon as I hit the start it alarms and stops. I made the file in creative space but being new to this I don't know if the measurements will all come out the same to use that grid for lightburn now that it's engraved into the wood.
Hello. Be sure to read the "Read Me First" document in the folder. It has extra instructions in there how to properly burn the grid including disabling those limit switches.
Thank you! I downloaded the files. Question, when turning off the crosshairs how do you get the laser to turn on when framing?
Thanks again
Hello. If you are using Creative space you can turn in on in the Process window. If you are using Lightburn you enable it under EDIT> DeviceSettings and turn on Enable laser fire button and Laser on while Framing. Be sure to adjust the "Fire" button percentage under the MOVE tab to something not too high that it burns while framing.
Can this be modified for the D1 Pro with extensions?
In Lightburn...Probably. Might be a bit tricky in XSC as it's a DFX export from Lightburn to Creative studio so It might be harder to modify in there.
@@BusterBeagle3D I appreciate your reply this early in the morning. I’m getting Lightburn once my Pro arrives.
@@Nlackings I finally got around to making an extension version. You can find it here: www.etsy.com/listing/1281256993
You are awesome!!!!!!!! Thank you.
Can I use the 20w grid for a 10w? When framing the 10w grid it triggers the limit switch in the lower front left?
Be sure to read the “Read me First” document in the folder. It goes over instructions including disabling those alarms.
I just ordered the extended version by mistake. I bought both lol. perfect for when I upgrade.
Hi. I just sent you a message on Etsy with a link to the original one.
I am going to purchase this grid pattern but have one question about its use. It will be fine for engraving coasters and other items that can be positioned on the board, but what about cutting. If i use the grid to position my board and then make a cutout it will ruin the waste board grid.
Correct. When cutting I like you use a honeycomb board to protect my spoil board and get better results. I still use the grid to try to keep the honeycomb square but still have to rely on the laser outline in this case to be able to register the position. When cutting I rarely use absolute coordinates, it's more a case for Start from current position for me.
So...I have the D1 Pro and made all the changes in settings as per the Read Me First file. However....I ran the first burn and all seemed to go well. I decided to run it again to darken it a bit and it burned the next pass approximately 3 mm to the right. I ran it again and it was off once again. Any ideas as to what's happening?
After cutting a new board and starting the process over again....(leaving all settings the same) it has now decided to mark 3 mm's towards the bottom.
This sounds like something mechanical is happening as long as you are using absolute coordinates and homing each time. I would also check and make sure the wire loom on the back of the gantry is not getting in the way when you are homing the laser. It's somewhat in a bad spot and might be pushing back on the laser after it homes as this wire sometimes bounces off of the back of the frame.
Good evening, thank you for the very informative detailed video. I was wondering if the grid would work just as well with the 5W D1Pro? Thanks in. advance for your response.
There are a few versions of the gird in there. One works with the 5-10W versions as well
I bought the file from Etsy. Thank you for sharing. Which file for the grid would I use? I have a D!pro 20w with the rotary tool. I have3 no way of knowing if the new rotary tool I have is shorter or longer than the other. Mine is kg02005400 ( the only partnumber I could find on the box. it is 9-1/2" long
If it was the older rotary the rollers are marked in their size on the top of the machine for the different roller sizes. If it’s the RA2 Pro they are marked A, B, C. Plus the RA2 Pro comes with a Chuck and the older version does not.
Bought the files, watched the vid... Came out perfect and super easy instructions to understand. Thanks!!
Glad it worked out for you. Good luck!
Will this work with my regular D1 10watt? It is not the pro version.
Yes it will! The pro versions I have of the grid on Etsy also work with the original D1 as well.
Hello, i have the grid downloaded and burned into my spoilboard, its great, thank you! One thing i'm not entirely clear on is when you say an image should be “Offset by the proper amount” for the laser to know where it is - what exactly do you mean? i tried a few things but the laser head mostly freaked out at the home position as it it was trying to access and area outside of the working area! Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated! :)
Hello. It just means that once you home the laser if you intend to burn an image at the 200X 200Y coordinate you should be able to know exactly where that is after burning the grid. If you know that the top left corner of your image is at that 200,200 position you just place your wood accordingly on that spot and your image should burn right where you intended it to.
What the power and mm and passes setting for xtool sofeware you use. Bought your thing just don’t no what to put it at
The settings may vary based on your own laser power but if you OPEN the files instead of importing in Lightburn the settings should come in already. If you are using XCS then choose the basswood setting.
I’m new to all this and was wondering what are absolute coordinates and why use them?
Absolute coordinates are a grid system that you laser uses to know where it's position is in relation to the home position which is at (Y0, X0) or in other words "Absolute Zero" When you home the laser your machine knows that it's at (0,0) so if you place art in the software at X100, Y100 the laser knows that it has to move left 100mm and froward 100mm to reach that coordinate. That's how you can make use of a burned grid on a spoil board to place your wood onto and know exactly where it's going to be marked on.
Where can I find the file for the feet?
I’m new. Still waiting on the arrival of mine. I ordered the honeycomb trays and extended frame. First, how do we keep from burning the grid up when doing projects and is there a grid for the extension frame??
The grid is better for alignment for engraving then it is for cutting. I use my honeycomb on the grid when I cut but there is also a metal sheet under it.
Purchased your files. Was dead easy to set up and utilitise. Thanks mate. Has made it dead easy to line up my knives and lay my makers mark on them
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the support!
Hello!
Can you tell me if these work on the non-Pro version of the D1?
Yes it will. However you will need to figure out a way to home the machine since the are no limit switches. I recommend this tool: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5274995
GREAT VIDEOS...I soooo new to all this my head is spinning...I have a d1 pro 5w and still learning...any idea where I can see a step by step on how to do speed test and power tests for a 5w for NWT ...slates and to laser photos on slate & wood...sooooo confusing..
Clean the tile with acetone, spray paint the tile with spray paint that uses Titanium dioxide. I use Rustoleum 2X ivory I believe. Then run a power speed test and look at the results. You can even run power speed tests with images. Check out my latest video on XCS for the S1 at around the 27 minute mark. It’s a different machine but the that part of the software is the same no matter which machine you use. xTool Creative Space Tutorial | S1 Edition
ruclips.net/video/fLAqB9hUeH8/видео.html
your amazing soo grateful...@@BusterBeagle3D
I got the pro20 and now it will not respond and the stop switch light is not on .I been trying to contact xtool with no respond to find out how to get it fix.It says no usb connect with it hook up
I would restart both the machine and your computer. Sometimes the driver on your computer can get out of wack. Once it’s back up if it isn’t working I would check your device manager on your pc and make sure it’s registering that the USB device is being recognized. If it’s something outside of that I’m a little at a loss. Otherwise I would make sure you are using XSC and see if you can connect to the machine over Wi-Fi.
I can't get this to burn in Lightburn. I have the 20W pro. Bed size is 430x390. Sets off limit switches. How to fix??
To add, it frames fine. But when I hit start, it immediately throws the limit alarm..
@@antennasbc Be sure to read the "Read Me First" file in the zip folder. It goes over extra steps to successfully burn your grid including turning those limit switch alarms off.
@@BusterBeagle3D ok I did read that. I thought limit switches were optional. I'll turn them off. Also should both software burn the grid in the same place? As they do not, they are 5mm off between the two in the vertical lines.
@@BusterBeagle3D ok, si tried again and it burned fine. I turned off the limit switches, and back to Lightburn and burned it. Seemed ok. Limits back on. Now when I tell it to go to a spot it's off 5mm in the X. Everywhere. What would cause that?
@@antennasbc In Lightburn there is also a pointer offset. Just make sure that is turned off. It's under Edit > Device Settings.
I assume that the Grids won't work with the XTool Honeycomb set, correct? (Just putting xTool D1 Pro 20 together.)
I use the grid to line up the honeycomb and help keep things square but that's about it. It's really used more for lining up while engraving.
@@BusterBeagle3D Thanks, this helps!
Do you have a version for the 40W laser? Or did I miss it?
I do have a 40W version. I have added them to Etsy files. They were not listed here because this came out way before the 40W did.
where to find the link for the grids and feet? great info thanks for spreading knowledge
No worries. You can find the files here. www.etsy.com/shop/BusterBeagle3D
many thanks for the good video. I will download your file. and thank you very much for the tip with the dot at the starting point at creative space! ingeniously simple, simply ingenious
Thank you. Glad you liked it!
So xTool Creative Space is different than Laserbox Basic?
Yes. It’s functions much the same way but it is their newer software.
Going to order today! Question I have though, do you not use a honeycomb? Also, how do you prevent damage to the grid/board? Or is this meant to be used only a few times before burning a new one? Finally, does the Etsy file have the settings built in?
I do use a honeycomb when cutting so I don't use the grid at those times. There are settings that come with the girds but they may need to be tweaked based on your laser / wood/ environment etc but they should be close. It is called a "Spoil board" for a reason so it can get messed up but as long as you can still read it you should be fine before you have to burn a new one.
I bought this Grid File for my Xtool D1 Pro 10 watt. I love the idea. Problem is probably my xtool D1 Pro 10 watt. The first run was very light with the settings that are in the program. I then put the laser back inhome position and then ran this grid 3 times to get darker lines. You guessed it. I have 4 lines, Horizontally and Vertically . The circles are all close at the top of the circles, but further apart on the lower part of the circles. How can I make sure my machine is setup properly. I have installed the feet and they are solid. Any help would be appreciated. I am a newbie
Make sure your belts are nice and tight and that if you are using Lightburn you are using absolute coordinates. If you your home is working correctly and there is no play in the belts the laser should be starting in the exact same spot each time.
Hi, just received my D1 Pro 20w. Does the download for the grid include all 4 files, if not how do I find the one for the 2ow? Thanks
The listing for the grid includes a few versions for the 20W laser. The download actually includes 12 versions of the grid depending on which laser you have and which program you intend to use.
@@BusterBeagle3D Thanks for the very prompt response, Ill be ok now I have that information, keep up the good work
Hello. Where can I download your grids pattern ? Many thanks four your help ! Have a nice day.
Download done ! Thank you ETSY
Sorry for the late reply but thank you for your support!
Hi, I purchased the grid, I used the D1pro with the original rotary tool. I think I did something incorrect, the grid is about a half inch to the left of the grid when I home the laser. I'm not sure how it did that, I framed the laser with the grid several times to make sure it was in the right spot. The limit switches are off, and when I frame the grid the laser hits the frame near the button. I know I missed something, I doubt this is correct. Is there any information you can give to help guide me to solving this issue? Thanks so much! Great videos!
Did you also turn off the red crosshairs before burning the grid? If you were using Lightburn there is also a pointer offset that you need to turn off in the Device Settings.
@@BusterBeagle3D
I have disabled the crosshairs and I've also disabled the limit switches. I've created a more detailed post to give more details, thanks so much for responding.
I plan on buying this today. What material plywood did you recommed using?
I just bought regular plywood at Home Depot. Think it was birch but it really doesn't matter. Just needs to be 2x2 ft, I went with half and inch thick.
@@BusterBeagle3D MDF should work as well. With MDF, you won't have all those confusing grain shapes running all over the spoil board.
Got the file today and it worked well! I'm usually doing 1 item at a time so far and have always used "current position" for my projects. Absolute coordinates will take me some time to get used to, but should work good for multiple parts and RA2 projects. Thanks Ryan.
Sorry I missed this. Hope it all ended up working out for you!
I am planning on burning the grid using lightburn, do I need to adjust the power/speed settings? Or use the ones that are already there. thank you
Hello. The ones in there are what I used for the 20W laser on my spoilboard. Depending on the power of your laser and the material of the spoilboard you may need to adjust it slightly.
@@BusterBeagle3D thank you for the quick reply. I am going to be running the 20W laser.
Do you have a laser bed grid that works with xcs or lightburn? thanks
Hi. The one on Etsy has files for both.
Would the grid also work with the extension kit
There is a special version made just for that one. www.etsy.com/listing/1281256993
Hi Buster, love your videos, lots of great information. I am, however, having trouble with my laser/using your file for the spoil board. I keep setting off the outside limit alarm and at one point my timing belts seemed to drag or jump. I had no issue burning the feet or with my previous burns. Any Ideas? My settings in Creative Space are as follows:
Move Laser Module Distance 20mm
Move Laser Module Speed 50mm/s
Origin set to Center
Laser Flat
Material 3mm Basswood Plywood A4
Processing Path Auto Planning
Processing Start Point Absolute Coordinates
Sometimes when I press the Framing button it will start burning the last project.
I'm at a loss.
Thanks for watching. First be sure to read the read me first document in the folder which goes over turning those limit swithes off. Second be sure to use the files in the 2.0 folder if you have the newer version of the D1. xTool has made the workable area of their machine smaller in their software for some odd reason so you need a smaller grid. If it still seems to not work then use the 40W version in the 2.0 folder as it is the smallest one. It should be the same grid coordinates even if you don't have the 40W machine.
@@BusterBeagle3D WOW! That was FAST! Thanks for getting back to me so quickly, I truly appreciate it! I did manage to get it to work somehow, don't know what I did differently, other than maybe Absolute Coordinates may not have been on originally. It was burning fine for the first 3/4 of the template, but then there seemed to be an issue with the belt again, like a binding. When the job completed, a number of the lines were off and the marks that were meant for the far right corner burnt near the center. I haven't seen anything to indicate that my laser is the 2.0. My software version is 1.78. Again, I appreciate the help.
@@bucksandoes Your machine is a 2.0 if you have an emergency stop button on it. If it hits the frame at any time the rest of the grid will be off. You may need to use a smaller grid and be sure to home again right before you run the job.
@@BusterBeagle3D Definitely not the 2.0. Any thoughts on whats causing the issue with the track or belt? I would assume it was a binding or tension issue, but I set the tensions almost identical on both sides and when I move the gambril and laser head I find no obstructions. I realize these are near impossible questions to answer remotely, but I do appreciate any tips you might have. I have only had this for 3 days and I'm chomping at the bit to put it to good use.
@@bucksandoes The belts should be tight but not in an insane way. Most of the issues I see arise are from the wire loom getting in the way at some point. Also don't forget that you have to tighten the belt along the X axis as well but again not too tight. Lastly make sure you have the connection in the front of the machine right under the xtool name on correctly. If you didn't tighten that coupler correctly it could cause one side to slip and be off from the other side which may make it catch. Other then that it's hard to diagnose without seeing it.
Hey
Thanks for the great explanation, I have questions regarding frame button
I have an image (svg) which is a semi circle, but when I click the frame shows as rectangular not semi circle
Think of the frame more like a picture frame and not an outline. It shows the extent of the work and not a tracing of the outside of the art.
Can I use this grid with my D1 and XCS software? My laser wont connect to laserbox to use your free version. I know the working area is slightly different between the d1 and d1 pro
Yes. It's slightly smaller then the one I made for the original D1 but the size of the machines are the same size. They just list the size of the D1 as larger but that really it shouldn't be that large on either model. The grid will work just fine and is nicer then my original one.
@@BusterBeagle3D Thank you! Going to download tonight.
Thanks Ryan for your grid plans and explanation of absolute coordinates. I have the XTool D1 Pro 20 W. The laser offset is disabled. I burned the grid for my machine and note when I set the coordinates X210mm and Y200mm and fire the laser it lines up exactly on X210mm but the Y lines up on Y201mm. I also noted that the vertical grid lines in the lower right quadrant burned 1mm lower than the Y200 line. In lightburn the vertical grid lines all align with Y200mm. Any suggestions. thanks
Only thing I can think of is that the wire loom on the gantry might have pinched between the gantry and the back of the frame at some point during the burn. If it hit and was 1mm off it might be impossible to have noticed but that's why everything is now 1mm lower after that hit. 99% of the issues that I have seen with the grid has to do with that wire loom not being in a great spot. They really should have gone with a drag chain for that wire or changed their homing position to the front left instead of the rear.
@@BusterBeagle3D Quite possibly.. Thanks