The reference for the boards in amazon is 300mmX300mm. This is smaller than the engraving area of the laser. This is only for engraving, it would have to be removed for cutting so you don't cunt into the grid. This is a very nice grid and explained very well. Thank you
I believe the referenced boards are for the guides to be cut from. The base, which has the grid engraved into it, would be plywood or MDF of a much larger size.
Hello from Denmark. Thank you very very much. It's a really good guide you've made and now I'm lucky enough to have a falcon 22W, so it's just right to go to. I will definitely make it because it can save SO much time THANKS!!
Thanks for a great video - I've subscribed and am really looking forward to the next. I'm curious to learn more about the jigs, especially how you incorporate the honeycomb when you want to do a cut and engrave.
Great video, thanks for the explanations. I too have the Falcon 2 22W and loce it and my next project will be to make a engraving stand and then the jig templates. Cheers from 🇦🇺
Hey - thank you for a guide to this very specific problem. The quality of the video is pretty good (audio, video and "red-line" wise). I can transfer ur given knowledge to my laser. Great work!
Thank you KINDLY for making this video. You are SUPER awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have watched many videos for the same machine and you hit many key points I have been trying to figure out on my own. I will try what I can from your examples on my end. HUGS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank you again.
love this laser base plate idea, im going to have to do this. that said, with the round coaster example, ill tape down a piece of card stock, and engrave the outer shape on it, then use that to position multiple pieces. your idea is clearly much better, im just saying that was/is the workaround that i came up with myself.
This is great advice. How do you go about cutting and not marking up the engraved grid? I guess what I mean is, how do you incorporate a honeycomb bed into this?
Thank you very much for your video!! This gave me great food for thought. My only question is what do you do if you are doing cutting? I have the Falcon2 Pro (40 watt) and do more cutting than engraving. Any tips on what to do in that case? Thanks again!! Earned a new subscriber!!
Hi, I love your informative videos. I see the the absolute coordinate grid download is not available at this time. Is there any way to obtain a copy of the download other than this video source? Thanks, and looking foreword to your future videos.
I downloaded the grid from you and it keeps stopping at the top right section of the job I've had to restart it now three times. Any suggestions to why this is happening?
Okay this is very helpfull but when i cut with the laser it leaves marks on the steel that ive put down instead of the grid. So how do you not leave marks?
@@thatDIYlife I use a diod laser sculpfun s30 max so when i cut material i use 100% laser power and it takes like few passes to cut but when it cuts the material it leaves a. mark of burn at the steel plate i use as a bottom
I've done all my engraving using this method for over 3 years now. But when you cut you probably will want to use a honeycomb bed. You will still get marks underneath the honeycomb so you might want to put either a sheet of steel or aluminum under the honeycomb to keep from messing up your nicely engraved grid. When you make a cut on a piece of wood precision is not normally need. And besides, you will not be able to precisely place your wood using the honeycomb bed. It's kinda like throwing handgrenades, close is good enough. When I engrave, the honeycomb bed comes off. When I cut, the honeycomb bed goes back on. As simple as that. I may have missed it in the video but whenever you make your jigs for, say, several coasters, make sure you 'lock' the outline of the coasters in your LightBurn file or you may accidentally move the outline. When that happens your jigs are useless. I hope this answers your question.
the grid came out awesome i copied everything you did. when I when to do a test fire @200.00 200.00 its like 3/4'' off no matter what I type for a test fire its off 3/4``
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
This is probably one of the most helpful videos I've seen on the Creality 22W.
This is life saver tip for laser users. What an idea, loved it
The reference for the boards in amazon is 300mmX300mm. This is smaller than the engraving area of the laser. This is only for engraving, it would have to be removed for cutting so you don't cunt into the grid. This is a very nice grid and explained very well. Thank you
I believe the referenced boards are for the guides to be cut from. The base, which has the grid engraved into it, would be plywood or MDF of a much larger size.
That would be a c*nt if you c*nt into the grid 😂😂
really like your two laser videos. Keep up the good work and cant wait to see your locking jig video.
Hello from Denmark. Thank you very very much. It's a really good guide you've made and now I'm lucky enough to have a falcon 22W, so it's just right to go to. I will definitely make it because it can save SO much time THANKS!!
Hello! That’s awesome, glad you liked the guide and hope it helps you save some time
Fast
simple
to the point
Earned a follow
Can't wait to set it up
Thanks for a great video - I've subscribed and am really looking forward to the next. I'm curious to learn more about the jigs, especially how you incorporate the honeycomb when you want to do a cut and engrave.
Bro you are an Saint...thank you first of all coming out with a Falcon2 video,I bought this machine 7 months ago and with no cent made. Thank you
Glad I could help
Thank you for this video! I'm working to get this done soon! I'm happy I found your page! Cheers!
Marc - Canada
Great video, thanks for the explanations.
I too have the Falcon 2 22W and loce it and my next project will be to make a engraving stand and then the jig templates. Cheers from 🇦🇺
Great Video, looking forward to your next video.
Hey - thank you for a guide to this very specific problem. The quality of the video is pretty good (audio, video and "red-line" wise). I can transfer ur given knowledge to my laser. Great work!
Great video! This is all the information I was looking for in a very well explained video. THANK OU!!! Fortunately we have the same laser lol
Thank you KINDLY for making this video. You are SUPER awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have watched many videos for the same machine and you hit many key points I have been trying to figure out on my own. I will try what I can from your examples on my end. HUGS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank you again.
We need that jig video 🔥🔥
Stay tuned.. should be up in a week or two
@@thatDIYlifeI’ll be waiting
Any update on the jig video, I tried making one and it was crooked 🥲
This is a fantastic video, I will defo be doing this when I can settle on what laser to buy haha!
Glad you enjoyed it
love this laser base plate idea, im going to have to do this.
that said, with the round coaster example, ill tape down a piece of card stock, and engrave the outer shape on it, then use that to position multiple pieces. your idea is clearly much better, im just saying that was/is the workaround that i came up with myself.
This was a great video!!
Brilliantly described & shown..!
Glad I found this video, well done.
Dave (UK)
Glad you enjoyed 👍
Excelent tutorial.
Thank You.
Do you hav another link to download the files? I've been looking for this type of video everywhere! its great thanks!
Updated the link in the description
Great video, keep it up!
This is great advice. How do you go about cutting and not marking up the engraved grid? I guess what I mean is, how do you incorporate a honeycomb bed into this?
@@FreestyleGGD put aluminum sheet under the honeycomb grid if you cut
@@thatDIYlife Ah right okay! I should have figured that out on my own haha!
As a beginner, this is just what I needed! I just got the same laser, can you share what your settings were for the grid engraving? Thank you.
You’ll want to dial that in with your machine and materials
Thank you very much for your video!! This gave me great food for thought. My only question is what do you do if you are doing cutting? I have the Falcon2 Pro (40 watt) and do more cutting than engraving. Any tips on what to do in that case?
Thanks again!! Earned a new subscriber!!
It's really only intended for engraving
Genius 👏 👏 Thank you 🙏
Hi! Great video!! In the video you said you should have used MDF instead - is there a reason that you prefer that over plywood?
@@PetAntics more for looks I guess. It’s a uniform surface and probably won’t warp.
Hi, I love your informative videos. I see the the absolute coordinate grid download is not available at this time. Is there any way to obtain a copy of the download other than this video source? Thanks, and looking foreword to your future videos.
Updated the link in the description
Hi, what is the size of the plywood for 300x300 workspace? Thank you
Great video, looking to do this for my Falcon 2. Is there a chance of getting the templates sent if you are having issues with the link?
Updated the link in the description
Hi is this applicable for Algolaser DIY Mk2? Thank you!
wow thank you so much brilliant
I did it but my laser precision is off by 1-2 mm it differs every time, comgrow Z1 pro 20W - probably due to homing process
Thank you
very helpful
Hi Sir, i did not received the file after I subscribed on the link description.
Updated the link in the description
Hi! How to make something similar for cutting on a honeycomb table?
A honeycomb is more making cuts
Hi, this video shows how to use jigs for cutting besides engraving with honeycomb bed: ruclips.net/video/Non9lnrDzB4/видео.html
I downloaded the grid from you and it keeps stopping at the top right section of the job I've had to restart it now three times. Any suggestions to why this is happening?
The grid is probably bigger than the work area of your laser. You’ll need to modify it to fit your laser’s work area
Okay this is very helpfull but when i cut with the laser it leaves marks on the steel that ive put down instead of the grid. So how do you not leave marks?
I don't fully understand your question but it sounds like the position of your engraving is off.
@@thatDIYlife I use a diod laser sculpfun s30 max so when i cut material i use 100% laser power and it takes like few passes to cut but when it cuts the material it leaves a. mark of burn at the steel plate i use as a bottom
oh, that's normal. I don't think you have anything to worry about.
I've done all my engraving using this method for over 3 years now. But when you cut you probably will want to use a honeycomb bed. You will still get marks underneath the honeycomb so you might want to put either a sheet of steel or aluminum under the honeycomb to keep from messing up your nicely engraved grid. When you make a cut on a piece of wood precision is not normally need. And besides, you will not be able to precisely place your wood using the honeycomb bed. It's kinda like throwing handgrenades, close is good enough. When I engrave, the honeycomb bed comes off. When I cut, the honeycomb bed goes back on. As simple as that. I may have missed it in the video but whenever you make your jigs for, say, several coasters, make sure you 'lock' the outline of the coasters in your LightBurn file or you may accidentally move the outline. When that happens your jigs are useless. I hope this answers your question.
@@krisknowlton5935 😊 Hi, this video shows how to use jigs for cutting besides engraving with honeycomb bed: ruclips.net/video/Non9lnrDzB4/видео.html
Please add thie File from Position 6:13 / 6:27 to the Download Links ( Thanks)
I’m going to make a follow up video for these templates and how to make them. Stay subscribed 🙂
the grid came out awesome i copied everything you did. when I when to do a test fire @200.00 200.00 its like 3/4'' off no matter what I type for a test fire its off 3/4``
@@JamesKoch-r8r interesting… does it go to the corners alright?
@@thatDIYlife yes it does but its still off that 3/4''
How can I adapt the grid to my laser?
You’d have to add or remove lines and text in Lightburn to match you’re laser’s working area.
I’m new to LightBurn so it seemed impossible, but I already figured it out. So stoked! Thanks!
@@SD333. glad that worked out for you