Sam, Thanks for this brilliant tool. Downloaded and engraved the board yesterday and haven’t stopped since then. Love the simplicity and ease and ability to line it all up without any errors. Added in a set of grid lines for business cards and it’s made life a lot easier. Thanks again and love your videos.
I have watched this video twice (so far) and the more I ponder on it, the more BRILLIANT I find that it really is .. several "head slap" moments for me .. Thank you Sam, you are such a pleasant person to watch ... an insightful to listen to.
@@Samcraftcom one follow-up question .. and this might be another head-slap moment for me .. The grid + absolute coordinates is great. But, when I am using the honeycomb for cutting, I cannot see the spoilboard (obviously). So I flop down a piece of wood to engrave/cut. With the "tool path grid", I can choose where the image will be placed, but I guess 'trace' is still required to actually get the image "spot-on" .. eh? Thanks again.
@@Jeff1Jeff2Jeff3Jeff Anytime I use the honeycomb bed for cutting I disregard the grid board. I set it to User Origin and line up the cuts on the material however they fit best.
Great video. I ended up cutting my spoil board 24" wide x 25" long. This allows me to place the xTool enclosure on top of the board and not lose any enclosure height. It also allows access to the USB and Power ports when the extension legs are installed (they were covered if the enclosure sat outside of the board). Thanks for creating great tutorials!!!
Ok got it, expect for when need to cut. Obviously when you need to cut AND engrave the template is covered by the honeycomb and steel burn protector underneath. I assume you cut your project first with the honeycomb in place, and then take the cut pieces to the template as a separate operation. Thanks for another great video!
Waaa ! I have my 20w xtool d1 pro and not set it up yet (I’m moving my workshop soon). I WILL follow this again for sure as soon as my workshop will be organised ! And YES I really really want a metric version, will save me tons of time !!! I’ll buy it for sure !!
Awesome! Question: What's the equivalent sizes you would want for the 4", 3", 2", 1" circles and squares, then also what grid spacing would you like best? Feel free to reply in email if you rather - sam@sam-craft.com
Sam, thank you so much for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience. Like some of the others, being a novice, I’m confused about placing the honeycomb on top of the spoil board. I would think cutting on the honeycomb will ruin the spoil-board. I don’t understand how i can align a project on the honeycomb if i can’t see the grid lines. My bird brain is obviously missing something.
Thank you Im starting on laser cutting and all your videos had helped me, and your files sold on the etsy shop for my M1 xtool and D1 pro , so I’ll be purchasing this grid too!!!
This is gold! I just got a laser and was trying to figure out how the spoil board works for perfect placement every time. Your video was right on time. I can always count on you to supply the answers. 👍🏽 👍🏽👍🏽
1 thing that I would add that I consider VERY IMPORTANT is that before saving the file you LOCK it so it does not get accidentally moved so template and spoil board do not get out of alignment
Very nice thanks for sharing. I had been toying with the idea of instead of a grid using a piece of peg board on top of my plywood and aligned with my diode laser. That way I can use the peg holes to align templates.
This is a great video. I’ll admit to not being patient enough to read all the comments, but I’ll drop my two cents here; it would make sense to me to set this up twice on your board, one with a simple design, one with a more complex design. Then I’d be able to flip it over to what you needed. I’m on my way to buy the file now, THANK YOU!!
Very helpful video Sam. I was already planning to do the same with the feet, but like your air suction kit behind the laser and how everything is placed gives a better idea how I want to place my laser. I'm also planning to make a board for the rotation kit with more ground clearance as well a board with a big square gap and a table under the laser. The laser itself is placed on an Ikea work bench (adjustable hight) so I can easily laser bigger stuff without adding or removing the feet at all. Keep up the good work 🤘
Nice vidéo 👍🏾👍🏾, a question remains : what about making a reliable jig including the honeycomb bed for cuttings, and using a slut coordinates … this could allow to install several secondary’s jigs to the main one, for positioning accurately stocks to cut. didn’t figure it out yet but we all could use a hand ☺️
Sam, great video. Maybe you can help me out. I am using obsolete coordinates, but when I run the border test the Lazer head is hitting the bottom right of the metal frame which throws off everything. Any idea on what I am doing wrong? Should I change the overall size of the entire settings to make the overall board smaller so it does not hit the frame?
Thank you for sharing this Sam. I just purchased your plans for the XTool D-1 10 Watt. I'll let you know what the needed settings are when I finish running it, so you can add those notes to make it universal for that laser as well.
Hi Sam, loved the video and the file! My board looks great. I'm not sure if I missed something but after saving my board and putting it to tool path in lightburn, I'm not sure what to do after that. I try to add files or artwork and it just opens another window with that in it.
Hi Sam. Thanks for the videos, I've watched a few now. I'm brand new just getting setup. I've watched some videos on spoilboards and absolute position cutting. I'd also ordered a honeycomb board that came yesterday, and now I see how it just floats in the workspace, I'm wondering if you can use a combo of spoilboards (grids for absolute positioning) and the honeycomb or if its down to one or the other?? Getting setup and going seems to be the biggest challenge so far but I'll get there!
Finally got through your video. Took me this long due to numerous interruptions not content. Lol Great video. I am certainly going to download file and give it a go. Thanks Sam!
Awesome! Question: What's the equivalent sizes you would want for the 4", 3", 2", 1" circles and squares, then also what grid spacing would you like best? Feel free to reply in email if you rather - sam @ sam-craft . com
Excellent tutorial/DIY video Sam. I saved the video to my PC. I have an Ortur now but plan on getting an xTool later this year and purchase your grid file then.
@@Samcraftcom ya know Sam you put out excellent tutorials. Have you ever considered contacting any of the tech schools, community colleges or even high schools to teach a curriculum on this subject?
Love the vids. I just got a good deal on a D1 Pro 5w with extensions. A 40w is on the way. Is there any reason to keep the 5w? The only thing I can think of is the laser might be finer. I don't think it's really worth much. But it's not a quick job to swap the 5 and 40. What do you think?
Within the settings did you have constant power on. I’ve found with Xtool and circles having issues if constant power not on. Love the grid I did mine a little different withe the feet. I drilled holes 1/4”deep
Great timing. I was about to do this very thing. Thanks! Hey, by the way, you had some really handy dandy french cleat holders behind you. Did you design those?
Glad I could help! I did design the holder yes... if you're talking about the cordless tool holders. :) I've been working the last few months prototyping them to create my first "real" Samcraft product. :) A universal french cleat tool holder. I hope to launch them soon!
Sam, thanks so much for this video. I just finished my grid board and so far so good! I just had one question about saving the file. After converting to a toolpath I noticed that my lines are still the short, dashed style instead of fully connected as yours appear to be. Is there something I could be missing in this step?
Sam, great video, I'm new to laser engraving and I always thought you had to use the honeycomb piece all the time. Is it OK to engrave or cut without it. Are there any advantages to using the honeycomb. Thanks in advance all your video are very informative, thanks again.
Question. I notice you are not using the shield attached to the laser module of the D1. Is that required? I noticed that I have to clean the module more often due to build up. Also, how does you metal board fit in there?
The shield isn't required, no. It's a safety measure, but not needed since I have the enclosure. I also noticed my shield funneling smoke up and into the lens housing.
The xTool is my go-to for anything wood and large batches of things like drink coaster engravings. For metal, I really like the Genmitsu Z5-1, but it's a small format laser.
Like your vids. You removed the orange protective cap. I was also thinking about doing this since I also have the same enclosure you do and that cap keeps hitting my clamps. Is it safe enough to be using the xtools d1 pro without the cap?
The orange shield is there to protect stray eyes. Otherwise it's just a soot and smoke capture area for the laser and will lead to dirtier lenses and more maintenance. Just my opinion though. :)
Sam this maybe off the subject, but what computer do you suggest to run lightburn I just bought a D1 Pro and need to up grade my Old Old computer. Not wanting to spend a ton of money but want something that works good. Will a tablet work?
Hardly anything is off subject here! LOL You'll want a machine that runs Windows to use Lightburn. Some tablets will run it, but I prefer a laptop / PC setup. In my shop I have a small form desktop PC and use HDMI cables to connect to my monitor or my TV as needed. I like the big screens for seeing fine text and also having multiple windows open at once. Here's a link to a computer that is very close to the one I use: amzn.to/3qzPTIb The specs I look for are 16 GB RAM, a SSD hard drive, and at least an Intel i7 processor. I've had good experiences with off lease computers from Amazon. I think I have about 4 of them in use at this point from our home, to my workshop, and my wife's soap making space.
I'm sure this is a dumb question but If you put the honeycomb on top or the spoil board, doesn't overburn/etc. go through the material/honeycomb and cut/burn/engrave onto the spoil board creating unnecessary marks on it? Thanks for this video and all the files and help you provide.
@@Samcraftcom Yep, I didn't think about that. I 3d printed feet and frame for the honeycomb so I wasn't thinking about the setup replacing my current layout. I'm still new at this trying to figure out templates/etc for batch work and your video really helped.
I am new to lightburn. When I use the "home" button I get a hard clunking sound which seems to throw off the positioning. The console says start_home x left limit trigged start_home y up limit trigged M28 This is for my XTool D1 10W machine. any thoughts? I appreciate your help.
Nice video Sam! Just ordered my first laser, lead time is at least three more weeks. I did not get the Xtool. What rotary tool did you get? I already broke the bank with the laser, I’m not going to spend $600-800 on a rotary if you know what I mean. I’m just starting to learn Lightburn in advance.
I have the xTool rotary, but have yet to get it out of the box. For all the lasering I have done, I have yet to try the rotary. I need to get over that! :) Which laser did you get?
@@Samcraftcom I got the Boss Co2 80 watt 16” x 30”, chiller and air compressor. They had a promotion with a free upgrade from the 70 watt and servo motors upgrade from the stepper motors. It is capable of converting to a 105 watt. It was one of those cry once buy once decisions. I have a friend that is killing it with his laser, Chris from A Glimpse Inside, great guy. I suggest watching the Laser Everything channel on RUclips, very informative! You and Angela and your boys are a great influence. I need to take that step into the RUclips world, it was my New Year’s resolution so we’ll see.
Hey Sam or anyone else I just purchases my xtool now I need recommendations on a good laptop to be dedicated for my xtool without breaking the bank. I do have iPads but I’m sure they are not what I need
Correct... as of right now, xTool Creative Space or Lightburn will not run on iOS or mobile operating systems (bummer). In my workshop, I use a mini desktop PC that I got used/off lease from Amazon for pretty cheap. It's powerful enough to run my machines (several at one), plus do any light design work I need to in the workshop. My PC has an Intel i3 processor, 16 GB RAM, and a 256 GB solid state hard drive. Anything around these specs would be fine for this kind of work. If you plan to get into complex image editing or run more powerful graphic applications, you'll want a better CPU and perhaps more RAM. But it works fine for me here with my plethora of lasers. Here's a link to one very similar to mine (currently $150 on Amazon): amzn.to/43i7qCJ I like the PC setup in my workshop for the ability to have a larger desktop monitor and also my TV connected without wasting the space of the larger laptop on my work surfaces. If you're dead set on a laptop, this one appears to be a good deal: amzn.to/45hN52t I am partial to Lenovo for their serviceability and from using them for many years in my prior professional IT career. Hope this helps!
The main way I have used them is for engraving odd shaped items like a cooking utensil. I align the piece on my grid at an x,y coordinate then set that as the start point for the job in Lightburn. It allows me to line things up and set origins much faster.
What is the working size of the machine? I didn't see this information readily available on their website. Feel free to email me at sam @ sam-craft . com
Awesome! Question: What's the equivalent sizes you would want for the 4", 3", 2", 1" circles and squares, then also what grid spacing would you like best? Feel free to reply in email if you rather - sam@sam-craft.com
@@Samcraftcom I have to think about I'm just starting with my d1 and I work in mm a hold over from 3d printing. I've been working on powder coated water bottles as gifts but I want to be consistent in placement and having the grid would be fantastic. I haven't graduated to lightburn quite yet.
Sam, Thanks for this brilliant tool. Downloaded and engraved the board yesterday and haven’t stopped since then. Love the simplicity and ease and ability to line it all up without any errors. Added in a set of grid lines for business cards and it’s made life a lot easier. Thanks again and love your videos.
Great to hear! Awesome way to customize for your needs with the business card lines! Saweeet!
I have watched this video twice (so far) and the more I ponder on it, the more BRILLIANT I find that it really is .. several "head slap" moments for me .. Thank you Sam, you are such a pleasant person to watch ... an insightful to listen to.
I'm very glad to hear that Jeff, thank you for letting me know! :)
@@Samcraftcom one follow-up question .. and this might be another head-slap moment for me .. The grid + absolute coordinates is great. But, when I am using the honeycomb for cutting, I cannot see the spoilboard (obviously). So I flop down a piece of wood to engrave/cut. With the "tool path grid", I can choose where the image will be placed, but I guess 'trace' is still required to actually get the image "spot-on" .. eh? Thanks again.
@@Jeff1Jeff2Jeff3Jeff Anytime I use the honeycomb bed for cutting I disregard the grid board. I set it to User Origin and line up the cuts on the material however they fit best.
Great video. I ended up cutting my spoil board 24" wide x 25" long. This allows me to place the xTool enclosure on top of the board and not lose any enclosure height. It also allows access to the USB and Power ports when the extension legs are installed (they were covered if the enclosure sat outside of the board). Thanks for creating great tutorials!!!
Ok got it, expect for when need to cut. Obviously when you need to cut AND engrave the template is covered by the honeycomb and steel burn protector underneath. I assume you cut your project first with the honeycomb in place, and then take the cut pieces to the template as a separate operation. Thanks for another great video!
Waaa ! I have my 20w xtool d1 pro and not set it up yet (I’m moving my workshop soon). I WILL follow this again for sure as soon as my workshop will be organised ! And YES I really really want a metric version, will save me tons of time !!! I’ll buy it for sure !!
Awesome! Question: What's the equivalent sizes you would want for the 4", 3", 2", 1" circles and squares, then also what grid spacing would you like best? Feel free to reply in email if you rather - sam@sam-craft.com
Yes! Need metric spoil board. Might consider combining both boards into single digital download.
Working on it!
Sam, thank you so much for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience. Like some of the others, being a novice, I’m confused about placing the honeycomb on top of the spoil board. I would think cutting on the honeycomb will ruin the spoil-board. I don’t understand how i can align a project on the honeycomb if i can’t see the grid lines. My bird brain is obviously missing something.
Thank you Im starting on laser cutting and all your videos had helped me, and your files sold on the etsy shop for my M1 xtool and D1 pro , so I’ll be purchasing this grid too!!!
This is gold! I just got a laser and was trying to figure out how the spoil board works for perfect placement every time. Your video was right on time. I can always count on you to supply the answers. 👍🏽 👍🏽👍🏽
Awesome! I'm very glad to be able to help you! Congrats on your laser too!
1 thing that I would add that I consider VERY IMPORTANT is that before saving the file you LOCK it so it does not get accidentally moved so template and spoil board do not get out of alignment
A metric version were Super cool for me !! Thanks for your work
Great grid board, Sam. Will you be creating one for the extended bed?
Any chance you are going to do an XCS version of this grid. I don't have Lightburn, sooo...
Agreed! I need this for XCS!
Great idea. Love the gride board. Thank you for sharing. Everyone stay warm, safe, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Very nice thanks for sharing. I had been toying with the idea of instead of a grid using a piece of peg board on top of my plywood and aligned with my diode laser. That way I can use the peg holes to align templates.
This is a great video. I’ll admit to not being patient enough to read all the comments, but I’ll drop my two cents here; it would make sense to me to set this up twice on your board, one with a simple design, one with a more complex design. Then I’d be able to flip it over to what you needed. I’m on my way to buy the file now, THANK YOU!!
Very helpful video Sam. I was already planning to do the same with the feet, but like your air suction kit behind the laser and how everything is placed gives a better idea how I want to place my laser. I'm also planning to make a board for the rotation kit with more ground clearance as well a board with a big square gap and a table under the laser. The laser itself is placed on an Ikea work bench (adjustable hight) so I can easily laser bigger stuff without adding or removing the feet at all. Keep up the good work 🤘
Any chance you’ll do an update with the frame extension?
Do you already have the metric one?
Would this work if I have the extension kit ? Or can I just double the file if that makes sense ?
Nice vidéo 👍🏾👍🏾, a question remains : what about making a reliable jig including the honeycomb bed for cuttings, and using a slut coordinates … this could allow to install several secondary’s jigs to the main one, for positioning accurately stocks to cut.
didn’t figure it out yet but we all could use a hand ☺️
Hello, many thanks for the video, will there be a metric version of the gridboard for the xTool D1 pro?
Sam, great video. Maybe you can help me out.
I am using obsolete coordinates, but when I run the border test the Lazer head is hitting the bottom right of the metal frame which throws off everything.
Any idea on what I am doing wrong?
Should I change the overall size of the entire settings to make the overall board smaller so it does not hit the frame?
Brilliant! As soon as I decide on getting a laser I will be getting this!
just got the file!! can't wait to try it since i've had a hell of a time learning lightburn
No idea what you were talking about Sam. Wish you all the best with your business ventures.
Thank you for sharing this Sam. I just purchased your plans for the XTool D-1 10 Watt. I'll let you know what the needed settings are when I finish running it, so you can add those notes to make it universal for that laser as well.
Awesome, thank you!!
Hi Sam, loved the video and the file! My board looks great. I'm not sure if I missed something but after saving my board and putting it to tool path in lightburn, I'm not sure what to do after that. I try to add files or artwork and it just opens another window with that in it.
Hey Sam, I have a question, do you have a grid sheet for the extended kit?
you the man! this was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you sir!
I want a metric grid board!🎉
Hi Sam. Thanks for the videos, I've watched a few now. I'm brand new just getting setup. I've watched some videos on spoilboards and absolute position cutting. I'd also ordered a honeycomb board that came yesterday, and now I see how it just floats in the workspace, I'm wondering if you can use a combo of spoilboards (grids for absolute positioning) and the honeycomb or if its down to one or the other?? Getting setup and going seems to be the biggest challenge so far but I'll get there!
Great idea! I would love to use this but I have the xTool extension bed. Wondering if you have a template file for the 37x 17 inch? Thx!
Send me and email, and let's work on one. :) sam @ sam-craft . com
I’d be down for an extended one as well. Any suggestions on tweaking for a 40W?
I too have the 37x17 extension and would be interested in purchasing your file when one becomes available. Thanks!
I don’t see the XCS version of this? Do you not have that available on your site? I couldn’t find it.
Watching now and looking forward to this video. Thanks Sam
Hope you enjoy!
Finally got through your video. Took me this long due to numerous interruptions not content. Lol
Great video. I am certainly going to download file and give it a go.
Thanks Sam!
How do you do the placement when the honeycomb board is on? Does it still work the same way?
Could you please create a metric version.
Love you videos
Awesome! Question: What's the equivalent sizes you would want for the 4", 3", 2", 1" circles and squares, then also what grid spacing would you like best? Feel free to reply in email if you rather - sam @ sam-craft . com
@@Samcraftcom I'll reply to you via email within 2 week. Rather busy at the moment with my day job.
Nice designs, Sam! Excellent job!
Thanks a bunch!
Great stuff Sam!
How do I utilize a spoil board if I’m going to put the Honeycomb plate on top of it?
Yes do a metric grid pleaseee
Excellent tutorial/DIY video Sam. I saved the video to my PC. I have an Ortur now but plan on getting an xTool later this year and purchase your grid file then.
Glad it was helpful!
@@Samcraftcom ya know Sam you put out excellent tutorials. Have you ever considered contacting any of the tech schools, community colleges or even high schools to teach a curriculum on this subject?
I’m way behind and just getting started with my D1. Is this file available for Creative Space software? Or just Lightburn? Thanks.
please make on for sculpfun s30 pro 10 watt with extentions
Love the vids. I just got a good deal on a D1 Pro 5w with extensions. A 40w is on the way. Is there any reason to keep the 5w? The only thing I can think of is the laser might be finer. I don't think it's really worth much. But it's not a quick job to swap the 5 and 40. What do you think?
Sam, will this transfer over and work with a Cnc plasma. I need to make .250" in a certain layout 10x/10y rows.
Within the settings did you have constant power on. I’ve found with Xtool and circles having issues if constant power not on. Love the grid I did mine a little different withe the feet. I drilled holes 1/4”deep
I did not have that enabled... I'll make sure to use that setting for the xtool here forward.
Great timing. I was about to do this very thing. Thanks! Hey, by the way, you had some really handy dandy french cleat holders behind you. Did you design those?
Glad I could help! I did design the holder yes... if you're talking about the cordless tool holders. :) I've been working the last few months prototyping them to create my first "real" Samcraft product. :) A universal french cleat tool holder. I hope to launch them soon!
Thanks again Sam.
Thanks again for sharing Sam. As always I’ve learned something new. Love your work mate. Really enjoy your videos. Cheers.
Glad to hear it, thanks!
Sam, thanks so much for this video. I just finished my grid board and so far so good! I just had one question about saving the file. After converting to a toolpath I noticed that my lines are still the short, dashed style instead of fully connected as yours appear to be. Is there something I could be missing in this step?
In lightburn toolpath layers always show as dotted lines.
Sam, great video, I'm new to laser engraving and I always thought you had to use the honeycomb piece all the time. Is it OK to engrave or cut without it. Are there any advantages to using the honeycomb. Thanks in advance all your video are very informative, thanks again.
The only time you need to use the honeycomb bed is if you are cutting through material. Thanks
Is the metric version available?
Question. I notice you are not using the shield attached to the laser module of the D1. Is that required? I noticed that I have to clean the module more often due to build up. Also, how does you metal board fit in there?
The shield isn't required, no. It's a safety measure, but not needed since I have the enclosure. I also noticed my shield funneling smoke up and into the lens housing.
Nice vids. You have a lot of videos of lasers in the 1k-1500 range like Xtool, Ortur, atomstack and I was wondering which one is your favorite.
The xTool is my go-to for anything wood and large batches of things like drink coaster engravings. For metal, I really like the Genmitsu Z5-1, but it's a small format laser.
@@Samcraftcom I just bought an Atomstack M4. It just sucked me right in lol
Like your vids. You removed the orange protective cap. I was also thinking about doing this since I also have the same enclosure you do and that cap keeps hitting my clamps. Is it safe enough to be using the xtools d1 pro without the cap?
The orange shield is there to protect stray eyes. Otherwise it's just a soot and smoke capture area for the laser and will lead to dirtier lenses and more maintenance. Just my opinion though. :)
What happened to your Goonies sign?
Are you still getting your coasters overseas or have you found a domestic source?
Awesome video I’ll have to use it.
I just cannot get my laser to do what's happening in the video... I'm always off to the right when I'm trying to copy the video.
Sam this maybe off the subject, but what computer do you suggest to run lightburn I just bought a D1 Pro and need to up grade my Old Old computer. Not wanting to spend a ton of money but want something that works good. Will a tablet work?
Hardly anything is off subject here! LOL You'll want a machine that runs Windows to use Lightburn. Some tablets will run it, but I prefer a laptop / PC setup. In my shop I have a small form desktop PC and use HDMI cables to connect to my monitor or my TV as needed. I like the big screens for seeing fine text and also having multiple windows open at once. Here's a link to a computer that is very close to the one I use: amzn.to/3qzPTIb The specs I look for are 16 GB RAM, a SSD hard drive, and at least an Intel i7 processor. I've had good experiences with off lease computers from Amazon. I think I have about 4 of them in use at this point from our home, to my workshop, and my wife's soap making space.
...and do you laser engrave the soap bars too?
Sam, can you use MDF for the grid board?!
Absolutely! Several of my first boards were MDF. :)
I'm sure this is a dumb question but If you put the honeycomb on top or the spoil board, doesn't overburn/etc. go through the material/honeycomb and cut/burn/engrave onto the spoil board creating unnecessary marks on it? Thanks for this video and all the files and help you provide.
Yes it absolutely will... if you do not put the metal sheet (that used to be included with the honeycomb) on top of the spoilboard.
@@Samcraftcom Yep, I didn't think about that. I 3d printed feet and frame for the honeycomb so I wasn't thinking about the setup replacing my current layout. I'm still new at this trying to figure out templates/etc for batch work and your video really helped.
I am new to lightburn. When I use the "home" button I get a hard clunking sound which seems to throw off the positioning. The console says
start_home x
left limit trigged
start_home y
up limit trigged
M28
This is for my XTool D1 10W machine.
any thoughts? I appreciate your help.
Nice video Sam! Just ordered my first laser, lead time is at least three more weeks. I did not get the Xtool. What rotary tool did you get? I already broke the bank with the laser, I’m not going to spend $600-800 on a rotary if you know what I mean. I’m just starting to learn Lightburn in advance.
I have the xTool rotary, but have yet to get it out of the box. For all the lasering I have done, I have yet to try the rotary. I need to get over that! :) Which laser did you get?
@@Samcraftcom I got the Boss Co2 80 watt 16” x 30”, chiller and air compressor. They had a promotion with a free upgrade from the 70 watt and servo motors upgrade from the stepper motors. It is capable of converting to a 105 watt. It was one of those cry once buy once decisions. I have a friend that is killing it with his laser, Chris from A Glimpse Inside, great guy. I suggest watching the Laser Everything channel on RUclips, very informative!
You and Angela and your boys are a great influence. I need to take that step into the RUclips world, it was my New Year’s resolution so we’ll see.
THANK YOU
Hey Sam or anyone else I just purchases my xtool now I need recommendations on a good laptop to be dedicated for my xtool without breaking the bank. I do have iPads but I’m sure they are not what I need
Correct... as of right now, xTool Creative Space or Lightburn will not run on iOS or mobile operating systems (bummer). In my workshop, I use a mini desktop PC that I got used/off lease from Amazon for pretty cheap. It's powerful enough to run my machines (several at one), plus do any light design work I need to in the workshop. My PC has an Intel i3 processor, 16 GB RAM, and a 256 GB solid state hard drive. Anything around these specs would be fine for this kind of work. If you plan to get into complex image editing or run more powerful graphic applications, you'll want a better CPU and perhaps more RAM. But it works fine for me here with my plethora of lasers. Here's a link to one very similar to mine (currently $150 on Amazon): amzn.to/43i7qCJ I like the PC setup in my workshop for the ability to have a larger desktop monitor and also my TV connected without wasting the space of the larger laptop on my work surfaces. If you're dead set on a laptop, this one appears to be a good deal: amzn.to/45hN52t I am partial to Lenovo for their serviceability and from using them for many years in my prior professional IT career. Hope this helps!
What are the cordinate grid numbers useful for?
The main way I have used them is for engraving odd shaped items like a cooking utensil. I align the piece on my grid at an x,y coordinate then set that as the start point for the job in Lightburn. It allows me to line things up and set origins much faster.
I dont understand the point of the video. When we put the Honeycomb and hide the board, how we find the point position
does it matter what laser and software you use for this?
My files are only Lightburn compatible.
Is the crosshair at X4:Y3 too high?
Waiting on my laser to come in...
Yikes, yes! Thank you for your Eagle Eye. I've fixed the grid file. :)
May the Lord bless and protect you and your family
Will this file work for a sculpfun S9?
What is the working size of the machine? I didn't see this information readily available on their website. Feel free to email me at sam @ sam-craft . com
I totally would like metric!
Awesome! Question: What's the equivalent sizes you would want for the 4", 3", 2", 1" circles and squares, then also what grid spacing would you like best? Feel free to reply in email if you rather - sam@sam-craft.com
@@Samcraftcom I have to think about I'm just starting with my d1 and I work in mm a hold over from 3d printing. I've been working on powder coated water bottles as gifts but I want to be consistent in placement and having the grid would be fantastic. I haven't graduated to lightburn quite yet.
Awesome 🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙
💖💖🙏🙏💖💖