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Fitting Caberdek Floor Boards On A New Build House (How To!)
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- Опубликовано: 29 ноя 2022
- In this video we fit floor boards on a set of joists. This is on a new build property in the uk. I give tips and tricks on ways that i have learnt to make the job as quick and easy as it can be! Thanks for watching!
You don't see ringlock scaffold often in England but its great
I know! I’ve been on a few jobs with it tbf, and it’s good gear 👌👌
Nice work there boys,some good tips👍 I wrap some gaffer tape around the top of the glue bottle to catch the drips and keep the glue of the tools😅
Cheers mate!! 👌 ohh nice!! Yeah that glue is a real killer! Haha takes about a week to come over the hands 🤣😬
Nice job mate! Keep it up
Thanks pal!! 👌👍
You may find this hard to believe but i intentionally start with the first run being lay slightly concaved rather than being arrow straight. I find this less likely to end up with gaps and rocking by mid floor. When you see a timelapse like this you will also see how many times you are handling and moving each board. Take them off the bay and walk it straight to where its going and lay it. One of you gluing and nailing the other one fetching and cutting the board on the loading bay.
I know what you mean mate! It’s mad how a few mm out on boards at the start can have a massive effect at the end! So yeah I get what you mean almost gives a bit of wiggle room! I always just try and get the worst job out the way first(loading out) then crack on but yeah I get what you mean. Cheers for your comment 👌👍
Great video! surprised you don't glue the joists, I work on a new build site and I've always been told to use a bottle and a half per row. I hate flooring.
Cheers pal! We do glue on top of the joists tooo, don’t know if you can see it on the Timelapse haha. Thanks for your comment 💪👌
New site i work on we use 2ft level on outside brickwork and ask brickies what size their overall cavity is example 328mm for us, so we level from outside brickwork and mark 350 (20mm) cut back for our flooring saves having to do that inside trick you used i guess and maybe bit more accurate because they step inside blocks but always keep outside brickwork level, depends on job though probs get away with what your doing in most jobs haha
Ahhhh yeah I know what you mean! The cavity always measure abit different on this job tho so I’m not sure if that would work! Hahha cheers for your comment 💪
@@ashleydavenport3794 Yeah we measure it, if its 320 instead of 328 we take that off so would adjust to that, We just started a site where brickies seem to argue agaisnt our straps but we're putting them in like a guessing game (100mm) not good enough etc etc, feels like they could just put their block to the strap and call it a day lol, instead of us playing some guessing game but its whatever
@@xkp20x ahhhh yeah I get you, sounds good tbf! Yeah I’ve had some brickys like that. Just do it 100mm because that’s right and let them work it out hahah!
Some good tips there ash mate 👍🏻 I usually set my first row through the last 600 on the way the floor changes direction so I can tongue 1 but 1 but each to there own mate
Cheers mate! Oh nice! I’m always thinking how to make that join better tbh, thanks for your comment! 👌👍
👍🏻 no worries matey and £350 is about right for a set of beams that size .. joists are my worst enemy mate 😂😂 it’s the rough and smooth though bud one minute ur doing a pair of semi roofs for £1200 with spandrels next minute ur final fixing for £200 😂🤦♂️
@@shauna6140 exactly pal! Just got to take it all on the chin! Let’s just hope it stays busy! 😬👌
I prefer to cut the boards to the end joist as im working, saves dragging your saw through all the glue at the end, good work 👍
I know what your saying mate! Doesn’t take long before my saw has a new base made of glue 🤣🤣. Cheers 👌
Nice job. The dick heads that did my house didn't care whether the join was on or between the joists so now the floor creeks in every room upstairs. It's going to be a big and messy job to fix.
Cheers pal, ahh that’s rubbish. But there can be a lot of reason for it squeaking, not enough glue, on the metal work, and the studs, on the nails in the boards. Haha so it could be easier to fix than re laying them 🤞 hope you get it sorted
For what it is worth many bent nails ago had laid a chipboard floor. Back then think it was called V1313 (code) waterproof chipboard. It was a timber frame (my own house). It snowed rained for 6 weeks solid with chipboard out in all that weather it was not that peel chipboard you use nowadays (like your video). I had to bore holes in middle of some of the rooms to let the water escape it was that bad water was pooling in Centre of rooms I brushed the water off nearly every day. Hymm I thought this floor has got to be knackered or no good with all that rain and snow laying on top. spoke to Architect voicing my fears back then many chipboards were like Weetabix you look at it wrong way and it falls to bits. However this was the green waterproof chipboard. Architect suggested cutting small sample from each room and sending away for test. Low and behold the waterproof chipboard passed with flying colours totally surprised by the results. Not sure if there is a code for the way you lay chipboard nowadays we used to lay chipboard tongue to the wall and have flat side out.(grove) It was easier to hit safe wood on flat side of chipboard with small sledge hammer and not damage chipboard sheet.
Yeah it’s amazing how long it last isn’t it! We have to put glue on top of the nail holes aswell as it swelling up through the joins and round the edges. Thanks for your comment, hope your floor is holding up well!! 👌👌
Mate way do you not work back the other way and joint both boards into each other instead of having a small rip and a but joint
It’s just the way I’ve always done it. I make sure I get loads of glue and nail the join down, never had issues but I’ll try what you said for sure 👌
Are you aloud to join a board in the middle of two joists on site mate? I’ve seen it done more often lately not sure on it myself. Landing a join on the joist has got to be stronger all day long.
Should aim not too I think. Sometimes you can’t help it tho, but then we have to H nog it underneath! Yeah defo stronger landing the joins on the joist 👌
Hi Ashley, how long can these boards be left under the weather? My new build floor boards were laid and roof did not go on till after 4 months
I think they say about 4 weeks. But I’ve known them to be out for months and be fine. I’ve seen them have about 2 foot of snow on and they were still okay 🤣 so yeah yours should be fine too 👌
What blades you using as we are sick of buying different ones that don’t last 4 floors . ??
We’ve just been using dewalt blades at the min, I use my old circy saw for floor boards with old blades in to keep my good one sweet haha. They don’t last long at all, or just go through loads of batteries
great video fella .can you tell me what brand of PU glue you are using .taa
Thankyou! I can find out for you! It might just be the caberdek stuff that comes with the boards but I’ll double check 👌
We've had problems with, they dont want glue, they want tape to cover the edges, also straps hanging too far past blockwork, also z clips, all depends on nhbc even if same builder which seems like bollocks to me
We used to tape years ago but the new glue is okay on its own now, yeah we get similar issues. I hate doing z clips when we have todo them! But yeah like you said I can drive to another job down the road and it’s all totally different haha. When I start a new job I see what stuff I can get away with coz every little thing adds time to the job doesn’t it!
Tidy work mate.
That may be the going rate but its very poor money, where are you based?
Cheers mate, we are in Cheshire pal!
Sorry, not trying to be smart, but in our region NHBC requires u to have a CUT end on all sides (even where u start to set out the boards)and glued up so its water proof. Also when you lay the boards I saw u glueing the tongues but not the grooves of the board u are laying. It might be just our region being very picky about it. Now they start asking us to do the Z clips for the peremiter noggings, but its just getting ridiculous . Specially with all the roofs they want the truss clips even tho NHBC says two 4 inch nails should be enough. But the manufacturer provides the clips so we have to use them... hate it.. Lots of work for no money and it costs a lot on fixings... Nice work anyway!
Your NHBC man is making you do what he fancies irrespective of the book. Two 4 inch galvs are NHBC approved for trusses. We get truss clips supplied but launch every single one in the skip where it belongs. I have heard of the cut first run of board idea before too but again its nonsense. We don't glue the stairwell cuts now and would you believe it none of the boards are ever swelled. Perimeter gluing might seem a great idea but its just a glue (and money) wasting exercise. I have never seen anyone other than Robin Clevett pour glue in the grooves before laying boards either.
@@stevehallam6495 well I would love to work on sites u work. All the sites I work, they ask for all this nonsense. Its a real struggle. They ask for all this, but it doesnt show on the money u get.
@@C013ain yeah they ask us todo the same tbh but I forgot on the 1st setting out of the boards. Not sure if you can see on the video but we rip the groove off the 2nd lot. I’ll have to get another video of that! The people that we get the joists off don’t send z clips thank god haha so we don’t fit them at the min but I know there are a real pain! And nhbc is a pain in general always changing there mind on stuff! Haha I can go to a site down the road with a different building inspector and it’s totally different rules! Haha crazy! Cheers for your comment 👌👍
@@C013ain the joists we get now have a notch for a 3x1 runner/perimeter nog routed in them by the manufacturer which is actually a really good idea.
@@stevehallam6495 it sounds like a great idea, only question is, how do u set the joist? Do u pull a line fom first to last joist on the nogging so its nice straight line, or do u just run joist ends with the blockwork? Also i am sure u have the same thing when it overhangs in the cavity (bricklayer tolarencies....) with like 30mm, wont be the notch at the wrong place?
hi how much do you normaly name to lay the joists and the floor boards on a newbuild cheers
Do you mean make? I’d have to check but I think it’s about £7-8 per square metre pal. That’s for the joists and boards. Cheers for your comment 💪
@Ashley Davenport ye sorry it was a miss type so its about 8psm to joist and board cheers thanks
@@davebird7883 yes mate, I’d have to check for defo but I think it’s around that figure
Probs more like £7
@Ashley Davenport do you have an email address i could possibly have a chat with you
What’s that adhesive your using?
Cheers
It’s caberdek D4 adhesive, cheers 👍
@@ashleydavenport3794 thanks pal 👍🏻
@@gdfggggg no worries! Glad I could help 👌👍