I did a carpentery apprenticeship when I left school 14 years ago. I ended up leaving it and going down a different route. Ive always wanted to get back to carpentery. Over the last few months I've been watching your channel and it's inspired me to get back to it.2 months ago I made the leap and have been working back in the trade and I haven't been happier in a long time.
Awesome, same reason I left my desk job. Now rather than listening women moan in the office, I listen to men moan like old women all day whilst taking the piss out of each other.
I’m a experienced joiner with a love and passion for the job knowing about a lot what your talking about but still picking up little tips is great, and seeing someone else’s ways etc really enjoy every video always watch as soon as they ping up. Hopefully people get to put these to good practise ! Keep it up 👍
Awesome work as ever Robin! I find watching your videos a bit like learning maths at school. Makes complete sense when the expert does it and talks you through the steps, and you can follow the completely sensible logic and think "great, I've learnt that". But if you asked me to do it on my own 2 days later, I'd be hopeless!!
I had to do this earlier this year after pulling up the entire upstairs floor for the plumbing and electrics to be re-done. After having to hole saw/chisel out hundreds of nails to remove the old chipboard I couldn't face putting glue on the joists, so sadly the floor now squeaks even with spax screws. The D4 glue when doing the grooves, that glue is sticky and a nightmare to get off if you accidentally step in it or leave tools when it comes through. The glue on my spirit level is there till the end of time I think! A big thank you for all the videos, tips and advice both yourself and Roger show us. They are a great help and have given me the confidence to try many things I otherwise may not have done. I may not always get things right, but I'm learning and enjoying it along the way.
Great video. As a plumbing and heating engineer this stuff is the bane of my life when I need to access pipes etc under floors especially in the new builds. Love to see a tips video on lifting it or the best way to baton it back down 👌🏻
When starting first run I like to snap a line then screw a perfectly straight piece of 4x2 or 3x2 down. Then it’s just a case of putting boards in pulling them back to the straight edge timbers. I find it easier than trying to wink down a chalk line.
@@ukconstructionI have the 255mm mitre saw which you demonstrated, but not the jigsaw. I was going to buy the plane, and perhaps the chain saw, as i like to collect fire wood.(I also have both the fixer and the framer nail guns) I love having good tools, and i look foward to using them each day.
One other tip for those that have not installed before, on a long rung before fixing them down line up the front edge with a string line or snap a chalk line. Don't get the first ones right the sequential ones won't go together leaving gaps. Agh you have just now mentioned this in the video Roger 👍
Modern equivalent of the old Weyroc flooring with fancy glue and less fixings. We use pretty much the same in Oz without the fancy expanding glue. Laid one last year 280 sq metres one floor. Construction adhesive and coil nail ringshanks. Have used the foaming glue on " oily " wood a couple of times and like you say days to wear off.
Cracking video Robin, that glue I agree is a complete nightmare, nice clean work wouldn’t of expected anything else bud top class workmanship have a awesome week all the best Tony 👍
I’ve never understood why p5 t&g requires a 10mm expansion gap around the perimeter, when it’s either screwed or glued to the joists solid. It can’t move, unlike a floating floor. Can you enlighten me?
Great video Robin. It must be great to have a floor which doesn't squeak . I live in a house which was built around 1985 and the upstairs floor squeaks like crazy. Interestingly, we were re-fitting the kitchen and I noticed that on the underside of all of the boards it said all joints must be glued... needless to say they weren't! So glue was recommended even 35 years ago, although I don't think we had the same polymer adhesives back then?
Hi Robin, a couple of questions. The PIR is not flush with the top of the joists. Is there a reason for the 10mm ish gap. You didn’t pre drill and countersink boards for the screws, is it for time saving or is there on issues not drilling. Last one, how many screws did you use per board, I think you said it’s not necessary to use screws all over. Cheers Ps great channel, high quality content.
As I've got 60 sheets of P5 being delivered tomorrow your video was great Robin. Now I know the advantages of using glue rather than screws and that's what I will use. Have you done a video on repairing chipboard flooring for plumbers and electricians who have to cut out chunks out of existing chipboard floors if they have to access the voids for running new wiring and pipes etc. If there is a good and neat way you could suggest that would be great. Thanks.
Superb timing! I'm about to replace floorboards with this very material in my bedroom. I appreciate this isn't what the subject of your video was about but I was curious why there was a gap left between the pir and the chipboard? Not questioning here just want to make sure I do things correctly! Cheers again for another great upload.
This has got me thinking about something that's never occurred to me. You need a gap between your boards and walls for expansion, Is this the case between the top tread of a staircase resting on a trimmer and the caberdeck boards upstairs?
Interesting Podcast ...1) Laid a chipboard floor many moons ago think it was "V1313" if I remember the code correctly (Water Resistant / Water Proof ) this was on first floor of Timber Frame House. The second floor sat on top of same floor. It pissed down with rain for 42 Days (6 weeks) . My thoughts this floor is no good after 6 weeks of rain even bored holes to let the water through it was that bad . Sent away a sample of chipboard floor from each room to see if we would have to pull up same floor. Low and behold the Chipboard passed with flying colors. Totally Surprised me thought the floor was gone.. After that never looked back at waterproof chipboard floors. (The non water proof now that is like Weetabix and crap). 2) Interesting about damage to "Tongue" of chipboard and I see Robin lays floor with "Tongue" out.. I have never laid a chipboard floor this way I go the other way far less damage when bashing flat side of chipboard with "safe wood" I have laid more chipboard floors than I care to remember . "One man's meat is another man's poison" as they say or whatever works. 3) No Vapor Barrier in floor ? (Certain PIR manufactures recommend this and show diagrams polyethylene slip sheet in place )
That Jay is the best tip I have heard for ages, very top of the class for you mate!!! If I ever do it on camera I will credit the idea to you mate, all the best Robin
@@ukconstruction no worries mate, the simple ideas work the best. I thought I’d better try and give something back because sure enough I’ve nicked a lot of tips from you. Thanks mate.
@@jaydivall1800 there must be some sort of solvent or cleaning product that would probably wipe it straight off. Like dipping the old paint brushes in turps... If anyone has any suggestions.
Who makes the gap filling foam you mentioned? The transcript rendered it as ILLBROOK? "so this is a good time to go around ill 15:16 brook do a really nice one 15:18 which is always compressible so it's not 15:21 like a solid foam is going to go in 15:22 there" THX
Does egger recommend support on the joints or is that just a NHBC requirement. I've fitted a very similar 22mm product and the manufacturer States you don't need to head the joints over a joist or provide additional support providing you've fitted it correctly with the correct glue.
@@4D1989 that's true 👍 The rep told me that over 600 centres along as you've glued the joint correctly after it cures the unsupported joint is just as stable and strong as the rest of the board, as robin says the entire floor system becomes one entity.
Its how most professional carpenter do scribes with a jigsaw, this is why barrel jigsaws where created in the main, it means the down stroke of the blade is not chipping the face side of the work either, it works a treat
Hi Robin I would have liked to see some videos of you building that structure, I see you have 4 studs in some places etc, really interested in the build if you can, I know it’s time consuming and not always practical. Question for you, me and my friend who is a carpenter replaced a floor in my sitting room and hall, installed 22mm t&g osb to floor joists, then installed solid 18mm flooring and we glued the t&g and secret nail it and my floor can be a bit noisy Shen walking on it, what did we do wrong? Should we have only glued the t&g and floated the floor or Maybe the osb hasn’t got enough screws in it. Hey impossible to say without looking at the floor but what do you think? Also laid a 5mm floor underlay too? Any feedback much appreciated Robin 👌🔨🔧
Agh just remembered another tip, we didn't nail the row of fixings in the previous board so that the next one would fit together easier. Any one know the standard for how many fixings are required on edge and infield? Cheers
We did go for planning as we are in an Area of Outstanding natural Beauty but this would also comply as permitted development, the building is 44m2 and and 3.7m tall overall, thanks for your comment
Great vid as always 👍 Wanted to ask your opinion, we having a new floor/chamber put in for the first floor which Is part of a dormer extension. Which is better floorboards or OSB Boards???
All the different products are suitable but they have different fixings and you need to adhere to the suppliers guide in the first instance, we use mainly P5 Chipboard, but do from time to time use T+G OSB to. very rarely do we use a solid floorboard say ex 150 x 25 T+G this is mainly because of the expense, I would say that P5 chipboard is absolutely fine for most builds
@@ukconstruction awesome, lovely skiing there. Great work with the channel growth mate - Well deserved. Might I ask why you leave the joist hangers sticking up at the edges, even though the PIR has gone in now?
Do you agree that the short t&g end needs to be nogged out? I’ve laid loads of this stuff without the ends always catching a joist and I’ve never had a problem. Thought that was the whole point of the t&g ?
Hi John, its only the NHBC sites that insist on it, its not such a problem if the joists are at 400 centres I feel but if you are on 600 centres then this is where there has been issues, there has been plenty of cases where the leg of a bed or furniture has busted through a joint so they make chippies do this to avoid claims!!!
Robin, looking to replace a creeky and very cold subfloor in our extension that was done 10 years ago before having overlay wet underfloor heating fitted. I believe it's just on standard OSB at the moment. Would this product be suitable for the overlay UFH to go on and then to put the self levelling screed down over the UFH?
Hi Daniel, I the subfloor is in very good condition and the void under has good ventilation via air bricks then it should be fine, some may argue that adding a heated surface to the top of a cold skin of material such as your OSB could create condensation on the cold side as the heat is transferred through the materials but this is really hard to predict, ideally if you had insulation between the joists beneath the OSB then this may solve any potential issues, I reckon that if the ventilation is good and the OSB is nice and dry and not swollen in any way then you will be fine!! Hope that helps mate
Are you not supposed to nail them? I see you used a few fixings . I nail these down as well as the glue and also the glue is great to use on skirting boards it keeps it tight to the wall. Great video
Just doing some of this work now. Would you consider for the on top of the joists only, a glue like multi-fix? one of the new polymer adhesives. I'm thinking about it as it always stays flexible. Doesn't foam, but easier to work with and maybe acts as a bit of cushioning?
Hi Adam, I would always stick with the manufacturer guidelines and products from a warranty point of view, I am sure that a decent polymer used on clean joists would work too, but I would stick with the system, I am due to do an updated video of fitting a P5 chipboard floor and the new updated instructions states that mechanical fixings such as suitable nails and screws can be used in conjunction with the joint and joist adhesive, hope that helps mate
@@ukconstruction yeah good one, I'll stick with the manufacturers plan then. I'm using cabershield plus which is the same sort of gear and lumberjack 30 minute pu adhesive as that's what was in TS today!
Have you seen the flooring adhesive they use in the USA, purple and comes in gun grade foam, it looks easy to use. I remember a few years back when egger recommended a mastic type adhesive for the joists that was so thick you had to battle to get the boards tight together, just about doubled installation time
Hi Ben, well its funny you should ask that, because when I opened the first bottle of glue it was purple and up until recently it was grey, so maybe its similar, we used to have this in a tube for a mastic gun but not the formula is just in a bottle for the joist and the joint, you are so right it used to be a proper faff!!! thanks for the comment matey
@@ukconstruction it just put down 160 square meters of the stuff and of the 16 bottles most were different colours. Different shades of Blue grey pink and purple and some almost clear. Funny all the foam out were different colours and one day in the sun and all in went the same yellowish colour.
No it’s not ideal to nail hardwood flooring to it as it blows a large exit hole out of the underside of the chipboard. Use ply subfloor or float the finish floor on top.
If you were fitting an engineered wood floor, the first two rows would be glued together to form a straight line. Why would you not do that with T&G chipboard? Also why not nail the edge boards? The glue is powerful stuff & nails are fast.
Hey Robin, I am planning a timber lodge with the same type of construction and I am trying to get to grips with the insulation. Can you please advise why is the Celotex insulation on this build below the joist level (looks like about 25mm below) and not directly under the Egger Protect? I find all your videos a terrific source of knowledge and look forward to each one. Wells done and thanks for sharing your experience. Your advice is really appreciated.
Hi Mate, I guess that you are Maltese!! I love Malta.. great country, Our PIR insulation is generally flat to the bottom of the joists, this allows some space for services such as pipes and cables etc, as long as its there and well fitted it does not matter if its up or down!! hope that helps mate
Thanks so much for the tip Robin. I am an expat, living in Malta (my wife is Maltese) and we are building a lodge (granny annex) in Devon in our daughter’s family garden. Just bought enough 100mm Celotex for the floor, walls and roof. If you can indulge me a little further. Firstly, I intend to use Gapotape after your recommendation - do they give a discount code for your subscribers? They should as you will have increased their sales exponentially!! Second, do you recommend additional insulation on outer walls (150x50 studs @ 600mm centres) and 15 deg pitched roof (200x50 rafters @ 600mm centres -vaulted). E.g. would you use superfoil and battens under the plasterboard or insulated plasterboard (or neither as 100mm PIR would be sufficient - just a vapour barrier? I can’t seem to work this out from your videos. Many thanks for your advice and I’d be happy give you the Cook’s Tour if you get to visit the island again.
Ii would tend not to build on this if its a shed, providing the slab has a decent Damp proof membrane you could batten the slab and then lay this or other flooring, I would build the walls on wall plates and floor inbetween
Well we have a 140mm wall stud and 120mm insulation so we push this to the outside of the stud and this allows for electrical cables etc it the 20mm void whether its flush or set back as long as it fits well and there are no gaps around the edge of the insulation panels then I reckon it makes no difference, ask the building inspectors and they all give you different answers!!!
The fella I was working with as an apprentice used to like going round after the installation was complete and any slight gaps he would put pva glue in the joints and sawdust. Always wondered if this was worth it or not, any input?
Think thats to blend in and hide the gaps. Some people don't care about the gaps but we have lots of gaps in are Victorian house on the floorboards and are going to try a resin and sawdust mix. The resin is tougher than PVA
Hi Mark, my hammer is by Estwing, and it's called the big Blue, it's a california framer and for the money I think it's great, it takes a while to get used to it but once you do it's weird using a normal one!!!
@@ukconstruction wow the big blue. I had a look at that the other week. They had it in huw grays. It's an absolute beast. 25 oz. You must have arms like Arnold schwazenegger lol. But if its good enough for you it's good enough for me and a fraction of a cost of a martinez or stilleto. Cheers for the reply.
@@ukconstruction I think on a new construction with your level of craftsmanship I remain to be convinced of the benefit tbh. Restoration when insulating old timbers it looks good despite the cost.
Would that glue be good for squeaky chipboard flooring? I have the spax already just need a good glue. Would I need to wet the joints before applying? Keep up the good work.
Ive used that egger chipboard and adhesive flooring system many times, and I would suggest you dont get water any near it. The adhesive starts to cure quick enough as it is...wet accelerates the process, drastically reduces your working time and makes it foam up everywhere!!
Another great video, please keep them coming your videos and the ones on Skill Builder have helped me as a DIYer massively. Ive noticed on your last couple of videos you have been using your jigsaw from the bottom upwards when doing small cutouts, Do you find this more accurate, comfortable or have we all being doing it incorrectly for years, Thanks
Great video , never seen those little clips to hold the insulation board , would you be able to share a link ? Or point me in the right direction? Cheers
I am not totally sure, I will have to look at the COSHH sheet for this glue, I would imagine that it is fine the manufacturers spend a fortune getting the product right
Hi Robin, what's the reason for putting the deck down after all the frames are up? We get the floor down first and put walls on top so you have a working platform and it's far less work to put down. Love your videos by the way
Hi Will, we do that too in most cases, but this job we wanted to get the roof on and in the dry before we laid the floor insulation so as we only had a couple of internal walls we decided to build allowing for the floor to go in once the roof was on, great question mate
Hi Robin been watching your videos for quiet sometime now as i am a developer/contractor,i wanted to maybe get a price from you as i got a job coming up in goldaming gu8 Surrey ? let me know if you would be interested,the job is a new build house which i would need the roof 1st fix done.Awaiting your reply.
I really don’t like this method. I’ve used it on NHBC builds and I find it very messy, and still had problems with squeaky boards. For my own jobs I use pva in the joints and screw every board with floortite screws. It’s fast, neat and never ever get any squeaks or other problems. Can’t beat screws for holding down boards! I also use a tapping block or flooring bar saves mullering the edges with a timber off cut.
I’d rather see screw fixings than glue; at least you’ve got some chance of getting the boards up when the house owner inevitably decides they want a new bathroom. The shower waste needs to move, they don’t want the basin on that wall any more and the WC’s in the wrong place. End result: a whole load of saw cuts to get access to waste and supply pipes. Sometimes I swear it’d be easier to take the ceiling off below..
Mate I served by time as an electrician but off the tools now. Part of my job is site inspection and I always tell the lads how difficult it will be to rewire a house constructed with modern methods. The floors, the metal C frame walls, etc. You'd be better off pulling the ceilings down to make a job of it, especially with the timber I beam type joists. Lifting the floor when the boards are glued to those will destroy the joists and structurally they're knackered.
@@Daniells1982 Lucky enough so far that I haven’t come across too many new builds but I agree with you. Easier, faster, safer and cheaper to remove the ceiling.
@@nicklane4714 absolutely. Easier said than done with someone living in the house mind. If it's not enough upheaval having a rewire or repiping a heating system you need to replace your ground floor ceilings throughout. Hopefully I'll have retired before we get to that point and it'll be some young bucks problem 😉
@@Daniells1982 It would be better to wire in conduit or trunking in a house with this system, that would make most of the rewire pretty straightforward. Nobody thinks that far ahead though.. someone else's problem.
As a handyman jobs can be easy as floor never fitted down no fixings at all or you come to the new way and your day just turned to pap. I love you're vids but belt and braces is your middle name . Even your door trims can never be removed . Replacement only nailed glue and adhesive .
@@jimdoherty5010 Seems to be not available in the Uk Amazion had some at a Premium Price not available now,Hikoki dealer did say they would be available in Sept but no news yet.Jeff
@@jeffgodon1335 ahhh right its just im looking at changing brands and love their framing nailer so was hoping the jigsaw was good,now I'm sure it is but like you say will find it tough to get one lol,if I see or hear anything I will post back here👍
I did a carpentery apprenticeship when I left school 14 years ago. I ended up leaving it and going down a different route. Ive always wanted to get back to carpentery. Over the last few months I've been watching your channel and it's inspired me to get back to it.2 months ago I made the leap and have been working back in the trade and I haven't been happier in a long time.
Awesome, same reason I left my desk job. Now rather than listening women moan in the office, I listen to men moan like old women all day whilst taking the piss out of each other.
Thanks for your life story do you wanna hear mine?
If you could maybe post these before I do my jobs, then I stand half a chance of getting it right! Great video 👍🏼👍🏼
I think Robin waits until I've done a job and then does a video to show me how I should have done it.
You forgot to fill under the floor with rubble and chocolate bar wrappers like my builders do.
I’m a experienced joiner with a love and passion for the job knowing about a lot what your talking about but still picking up little tips is great, and seeing someone else’s ways etc really enjoy every video always watch as soon as they ping up.
Hopefully people get to put these to good practise !
Keep it up 👍
Thanks for watching Tom
The most amazing thing was how you (and your assistant) both managed to avoid treading on the glue lines before it had hardened. Well done.
Awesome work as ever Robin!
I find watching your videos a bit like learning maths at school.
Makes complete sense when the expert does it and talks you through the steps, and you can follow the completely sensible logic and think "great, I've learnt that".
But if you asked me to do it on my own 2 days later, I'd be hopeless!!
Thank you, I'm sure you would crack it no problem, I appreciate your kind words
@@ukconstruction we will find out over the next week or so, as I’m levelling and relaying one of the floors in our house! 😁
I had to do this earlier this year after pulling up the entire upstairs floor for the plumbing and electrics to be re-done. After having to hole saw/chisel out hundreds of nails to remove the old chipboard I couldn't face putting glue on the joists, so sadly the floor now squeaks even with spax screws. The D4 glue when doing the grooves, that glue is sticky and a nightmare to get off if you accidentally step in it or leave tools when it comes through. The glue on my spirit level is there till the end of time I think!
A big thank you for all the videos, tips and advice both yourself and Roger show us. They are a great help and have given me the confidence to try many things I otherwise may not have done. I may not always get things right, but I'm learning and enjoying it along the way.
Try isopropyl alcohol. Gets off a lot of stuff.
Great video. As a plumbing and heating engineer this stuff is the bane of my life when I need to access pipes etc under floors especially in the new builds. Love to see a tips video on lifting it or the best way to baton it back down 👌🏻
first think came into my mind
When starting first run I like to snap a line then screw a perfectly straight piece of 4x2 or 3x2 down. Then it’s just a case of putting boards in pulling them back to the straight edge timbers. I find it easier than trying to wink down a chalk line.
I use a third board without glue to half bond the first two. Fix the back edge. PU is good stuff but you have to work very tidy.
Thanks to you i just spent $3000 Aust. on new Hikoki tools. And i love all of them Thanks.
Thats awesome, these are brilliant tools, let me know which of the tools is your favourite too, all the best Robin
@@ukconstruction The impact driver , and the 185mm circular saw. Both are fantastic , and no cords.
@@267BISMARK I am with you there!! Have you got the new barrel jigsaw and the 300mm chopsaw?
@@ukconstructionI have the 255mm mitre saw which you demonstrated, but not the jigsaw. I was going to buy the plane, and perhaps the chain saw, as i like to collect fire wood.(I also have both the fixer and the framer nail guns) I love having good tools, and i look foward to using them each day.
One other tip for those that have not installed before, on a long rung before fixing them down line up the front edge with a string line or snap a chalk line. Don't get the first ones right the sequential ones won't go together leaving gaps. Agh you have just now mentioned this in the video Roger 👍
We just use a length of timber as a block and a sledge hammer on our timber frame jobs and does the trick!
Great video , chipboard has come a long way 🍀🇮🇪👍☺️
Very nice to see such dedication and precision .
Super video once again Robin. So inspiring to see the way you work. Cheers.
i can see you genuinely enjoy your trade from the pace you keep at work. i bet you wish you could clone yourself.
You love that word, undulations, great job as usual. Keep up the great content, oh and undulations. Chris
Modern equivalent of the old Weyroc flooring with fancy glue and less fixings. We use pretty much the same in Oz without the fancy expanding glue. Laid one last year 280 sq metres one floor. Construction adhesive and coil nail ringshanks. Have used the foaming glue on " oily " wood a couple of times and like you say days to wear off.
Cracking video Robin, that glue I agree is a complete nightmare, nice clean work wouldn’t of expected anything else bud top class workmanship have a awesome week all the best Tony 👍
Thanks 👍
Thank you robin ur very insightful 👍 im a dab hand at most things but u help
Great video, many thanks Robin 👍👍👍. I know now why all my chipboard floors are squeeky 🐁 🐁.
I’ve never understood why p5 t&g requires a 10mm expansion gap around the perimeter, when it’s either screwed or glued to the joists solid. It can’t move, unlike a floating floor. Can you enlighten me?
I’ve always wondered on this too
Me too, but it would be an arse getting them in with no gap :D
It's because the boards expand fixed or not. They dont move they get bigger.
Thank you!
What A lovely view you've got 👏👏👍
Great video Robin. It must be great to have a floor which doesn't squeak . I live in a house which was built around 1985 and the upstairs floor squeaks like crazy. Interestingly, we were re-fitting the kitchen and I noticed that on the underside of all of the boards it said all joints must be glued... needless to say they weren't! So glue was recommended even 35 years ago, although I don't think we had the same polymer adhesives back then?
Hi Robin, a couple of questions. The PIR is not flush with the top of the joists. Is there a reason for the 10mm ish gap.
You didn’t pre drill and countersink boards for the screws, is it for time saving or is there on issues not drilling.
Last one, how many screws did you use per board, I think you said it’s not necessary to use screws all over.
Cheers
Ps great channel, high quality content.
As I've got 60 sheets of P5 being delivered tomorrow your video was great Robin. Now I know the advantages of using glue rather than screws and that's what I will use. Have you done a video on repairing chipboard flooring for plumbers and electricians who have to cut out chunks out of existing chipboard floors if they have to access the voids for running new wiring and pipes etc. If there is a good and neat way you could suggest that would be great. Thanks.
Good video Robin 🤙
Perfect timing. Just about to redo the floorboards in my house
I always use 75mm ring nails, I never worry about a join on a joist, especially if it’s 400 centres!
Propper job!👏👏
Superb timing! I'm about to replace floorboards with this very material in my bedroom. I appreciate this isn't what the subject of your video was about but I was curious why there was a gap left between the pir and the chipboard? Not questioning here just want to make sure I do things correctly! Cheers again for another great upload.
great video again
grate job robin
Any reason for not boarding it all before the stud work?
This has got me thinking about something that's never occurred to me. You need a gap between your boards and walls for expansion, Is this the case between the top tread of a staircase resting on a trimmer and the caberdeck boards upstairs?
Robin... new boot are on the cards I hope ? safety first my man...💙👊😎
I know, I go through them so fast!!!!
Great job!
Hi Robin. Another great video. Do you seal in the underside of the PIR or is it open to the void under the building?
Interesting Podcast ...1) Laid a chipboard floor many moons ago think it was "V1313" if I remember the code correctly (Water Resistant / Water Proof ) this was on first floor of Timber Frame House. The second floor sat on top of same floor. It pissed down with rain for 42 Days (6 weeks) . My thoughts this floor is no good after 6 weeks of rain even bored holes to let the water through it was that bad . Sent away a sample of chipboard floor from each room to see if we would have to pull up same floor. Low and behold the Chipboard passed with flying colors. Totally Surprised me thought the floor was gone.. After that never looked back at waterproof chipboard floors. (The non water proof now that is like Weetabix and crap). 2) Interesting about damage to "Tongue" of chipboard and I see Robin lays floor with "Tongue" out.. I have never laid a chipboard floor this way I go the other way far less damage when bashing flat side of chipboard with "safe wood" I have laid more chipboard floors than I care to remember . "One man's meat is another man's poison" as they say or whatever works. 3) No Vapor Barrier in floor ? (Certain PIR manufactures recommend this and show diagrams polyethylene slip sheet in place )
Is the air gap between pir and caberdek vented? Always thought it was full fill and gaps foamed in(minimal trapped air).
Good job Boss!!
Use gaffer tape to make a ‘collar’ around the top of the bottle it stops the glue running back down and onto your hands 👍🏻
That Jay is the best tip I have heard for ages, very top of the class for you mate!!! If I ever do it on camera I will credit the idea to you mate, all the best Robin
Very good idea, we use this glue on floors on timber frames we put up and ends up stuck on the hands for weeks... 👍
@@ukconstruction no worries mate, the simple ideas work the best. I thought I’d better try and give something back because sure enough I’ve nicked a lot of tips from you. Thanks mate.
@@user-bj8oe5tj9g it’s murder when you get covered I hate working in a mess.
@@jaydivall1800 there must be some sort of solvent or cleaning product that would probably wipe it straight off. Like dipping the old paint brushes in turps... If anyone has any suggestions.
Thanks for all your great videos, really leaning so much. Do you have to nail of screw the whole area or is it just the glue that hold them.?
Do you glue it down to the joists in a bathroom? What if you need to lift the boards at a later date?
Who makes the gap filling foam you mentioned?
The transcript rendered it as ILLBROOK?
"so this is a good time to go around ill
15:16
brook do a really nice one
15:18
which is always compressible so it's not
15:21
like a solid foam is going to go in
15:22
there"
THX
Yes it was illbrook mate
@@ukconstruction Turns out it is spelled Illbruck, so I found it fine.
Thanks again.
rewatching again ... now it makes me miss these days when you didn't have the best microphone ... HI!
Nice one Thor, thanks for you Instagram message too mate, have a good Christmas
00:29 is that a cable car sat in the field?
Does egger recommend support on the joints or is that just a NHBC requirement. I've fitted a very similar 22mm product and the manufacturer States you don't need to head the joints over a joist or provide additional support providing you've fitted it correctly with the correct glue.
Good practice to though and piece of mind I think, if your joists are set out to 400 or 600 centres then why wouldn't you 😊
@@4D1989 that's true 👍 The rep told me that over 600 centres along as you've glued the joint correctly after it cures the unsupported joint is just as stable and strong as the rest of the board, as robin says the entire floor system becomes one entity.
How did you find the new hikoki jigsaw Robin
Hi Robin , thanks for sharing
Why do u hold the jigsaw upside down ?
Its how most professional carpenter do scribes with a jigsaw, this is why barrel jigsaws where created in the main, it means the down stroke of the blade is not chipping the face side of the work either, it works a treat
@@ukconstruction You can get ‘reverse action’ blades too.😀
Hi Robin
I would have liked to see some videos of you building that structure, I see you have 4 studs in some places etc, really interested in the build if you can, I know it’s time consuming and not always practical. Question for you, me and my friend who is a carpenter replaced a floor in my sitting room and hall, installed 22mm t&g osb to floor joists, then installed solid 18mm flooring and we glued the t&g and secret nail it and my floor can be a bit noisy Shen walking on it, what did we do wrong? Should we have only glued the t&g and floated the floor or Maybe the osb hasn’t got enough screws in it. Hey impossible to say without looking at the floor but what do you think? Also laid a 5mm floor underlay too? Any feedback much appreciated Robin 👌🔨🔧
Agh just remembered another tip, we didn't nail the row of fixings in the previous board so that the next one would fit together easier. Any one know the standard for how many fixings are required on edge and infield? Cheers
Hi robin what ear defenders are they? Are they the dewalt dab radio ones ?
Hi Robin , great vid as usual , how big is the room and did they need PP?
We did go for planning as we are in an Area of Outstanding natural Beauty but this would also comply as permitted development, the building is 44m2 and and 3.7m tall overall, thanks for your comment
@@ukconstruction thanks for your reply , I thought that the maximum sq m you can go without planning was 30sqm? we have 0.4 acre of land btw
Great vid as always 👍
Wanted to ask your opinion, we having a new floor/chamber put in for the first floor which Is part of a dormer extension.
Which is better floorboards or OSB Boards???
All the different products are suitable but they have different fixings and you need to adhere to the suppliers guide in the first instance, we use mainly P5 Chipboard, but do from time to time use T+G OSB to. very rarely do we use a solid floorboard say ex 150 x 25 T+G this is mainly because of the expense, I would say that P5 chipboard is absolutely fine for most builds
Great tips and workmanship as usual. What was that Illbruck foam product that you were referring to at the end?
Love your videos mate - learn so much from them...! At around 40 seconds in, is that a skiing gondela cabin behind you?! 🤣
Yep from Courchevel!!!
@@ukconstruction awesome, lovely skiing there. Great work with the channel growth mate - Well deserved. Might I ask why you leave the joist hangers sticking up at the edges, even though the PIR has gone in now?
Do you agree that the short t&g end needs to be nogged out? I’ve laid loads of this stuff without the ends always catching a joist and I’ve never had a problem. Thought that was the whole point of the t&g ?
Hi John, its only the NHBC sites that insist on it, its not such a problem if the joists are at 400 centres I feel but if you are on 600 centres then this is where there has been issues, there has been plenty of cases where the leg of a bed or furniture has busted through a joint so they make chippies do this to avoid claims!!!
Robin, looking to replace a creeky and very cold subfloor in our extension that was done 10 years ago before having overlay wet underfloor heating fitted. I believe it's just on standard OSB at the moment. Would this product be suitable for the overlay UFH to go on and then to put the self levelling screed down over the UFH?
Hi Daniel, I the subfloor is in very good condition and the void under has good ventilation via air bricks then it should be fine, some may argue that adding a heated surface to the top of a cold skin of material such as your OSB could create condensation on the cold side as the heat is transferred through the materials but this is really hard to predict, ideally if you had insulation between the joists beneath the OSB then this may solve any potential issues, I reckon that if the ventilation is good and the OSB is nice and dry and not swollen in any way then you will be fine!! Hope that helps mate
Are you not supposed to nail them? I see you used a few fixings . I nail these down as well as the glue and also the glue is great to use on skirting boards it keeps it tight to the wall. Great video
Is there any chance that you take jobs as far away as North Devon?
I’m desperate for a 8x4 mtr kitchen diner floor re boarded. Lodgings included 👍
Great Video and thanks for the tips. How many screws do you put in per sheet? Sorry if you mentioned it i might of missed it.
I have another video on the channel where I fit a floor with the same Egger Protect board and I cover in more depth how and where to fix the sheets
Just doing some of this work now. Would you consider for the on top of the joists only, a glue like multi-fix? one of the new polymer adhesives. I'm thinking about it as it always stays flexible. Doesn't foam, but easier to work with and maybe acts as a bit of cushioning?
Hi Adam, I would always stick with the manufacturer guidelines and products from a warranty point of view, I am sure that a decent polymer used on clean joists would work too, but I would stick with the system, I am due to do an updated video of fitting a P5 chipboard floor and the new updated instructions states that mechanical fixings such as suitable nails and screws can be used in conjunction with the joint and joist adhesive, hope that helps mate
@@ukconstruction yeah good one, I'll stick with the manufacturers plan then. I'm using cabershield plus which is the same sort of gear and lumberjack 30 minute pu adhesive as that's what was in TS today!
Have you seen the flooring adhesive they use in the USA, purple and comes in gun grade foam, it looks easy to use. I remember a few years back when egger recommended a mastic type adhesive for the joists that was so thick you had to battle to get the boards tight together, just about doubled installation time
Hi Ben, well its funny you should ask that, because when I opened the first bottle of glue it was purple and up until recently it was grey, so maybe its similar, we used to have this in a tube for a mastic gun but not the formula is just in a bottle for the joist and the joint, you are so right it used to be a proper faff!!! thanks for the comment matey
When we used to use pva the boards would fly together
@@ukconstruction it just put down 160 square meters of the stuff and of the 16 bottles most were different colours. Different shades of Blue grey pink and purple and some almost clear. Funny all the foam out were different colours and one day in the sun and all in went the same yellowish colour.
Interesting product(I haven't seen this in Canada), can you nail hardwood flooring to this? Thanks for all the informative videos you put out.
No it’s not ideal to nail hardwood flooring to it as it blows a large exit hole out of the underside of the chipboard. Use ply subfloor or float the finish floor on top.
If you were fitting an engineered wood floor, the first two rows would be glued together to form a straight line. Why would you not do that with T&G chipboard?
Also why not nail the edge boards? The glue is powerful stuff & nails are fast.
chuffing hell, you got that up quick... show us building the walls and insulating and the roof!
It's not uploaded in chronological order.
19 days on site so far
Why did you use the jigsaw upside down?
Hey Robin, I am planning a timber lodge with the same type of construction and I am trying to get to grips with the insulation. Can you please advise why is the Celotex insulation on this build below the joist level (looks like about 25mm below) and not directly under the Egger Protect? I find all your videos a terrific source of knowledge and look forward to each one. Wells done and thanks for sharing your experience. Your advice is really appreciated.
Hi Mate, I guess that you are Maltese!! I love Malta.. great country, Our PIR insulation is generally flat to the bottom of the joists, this allows some space for services such as pipes and cables etc, as long as its there and well fitted it does not matter if its up or down!! hope that helps mate
Thanks so much for the tip Robin. I am an expat, living in Malta (my wife is Maltese) and we are building a lodge (granny annex) in Devon in our daughter’s family garden. Just bought enough 100mm Celotex for the floor, walls and roof. If you can indulge me a little further. Firstly, I intend to use Gapotape after your recommendation - do they give a discount code for your subscribers? They should as you will have increased their sales exponentially!!
Second, do you recommend additional insulation on outer walls (150x50 studs @ 600mm centres) and 15 deg pitched roof (200x50 rafters @ 600mm centres -vaulted). E.g. would you use superfoil and battens under the plasterboard or insulated plasterboard (or neither as 100mm PIR would be sufficient - just a vapour barrier? I can’t seem to work this out from your videos. Many thanks for your advice and I’d be happy give you the Cook’s Tour if you get to visit the island again.
Hi - I have an insulated concrete base on which I want to build a shed frame. Can I secure the egger directly onto the base and build the shed on top?
Ii would tend not to build on this if its a shed, providing the slab has a decent Damp proof membrane you could batten the slab and then lay this or other flooring, I would build the walls on wall plates and floor inbetween
Robin Clevett Thank you, Robin. That makes a lot of sense.
the gap you have left on your insulation in the floor and the wall, some do and some dont, can i ask why your choice is to have the gap please?
Well we have a 140mm wall stud and 120mm insulation so we push this to the outside of the stud and this allows for electrical cables etc it the 20mm void whether its flush or set back as long as it fits well and there are no gaps around the edge of the insulation panels then I reckon it makes no difference, ask the building inspectors and they all give you different answers!!!
@@ukconstruction really appreciate the reply robin thank you
The fella I was working with as an apprentice used to like going round after the installation was complete and any slight gaps he would put pva glue in the joints and sawdust. Always wondered if this was worth it or not, any input?
Think thats to blend in and hide the gaps. Some people don't care about the gaps but we have lots of gaps in are Victorian house on the floorboards and are going to try a resin and sawdust mix. The resin is tougher than PVA
Hi Robin I keep trying to see what framing hammer your using. Is it a martinez? I'm after a new hammer myself and like the look of that one..
Hi Mark, my hammer is by Estwing, and it's called the big Blue, it's a california framer and for the money I think it's great, it takes a while to get used to it but once you do it's weird using a normal one!!!
@@ukconstruction wow the big blue. I had a look at that the other week. They had it in huw grays. It's an absolute beast. 25 oz. You must have arms like Arnold schwazenegger lol. But if its good enough for you it's good enough for me and a fraction of a cost of a martinez or stilleto. Cheers for the reply.
Hi Robin, very tidy work.
Question, would you ever glue the t&g joints on a floor like this?
I was gluing them in this video
@@ukconstruction Ah ok, I missed seeing it👍👍
Did we run out of gapotape Robin? lol. Great video as always mate.
No Mate we have the walls factory fitted and these have no tape as yet, we do the roof and the floor on site
@@ukconstruction I think on a new construction with your level of craftsmanship I remain to be convinced of the benefit tbh. Restoration when insulating old timbers it looks good despite the cost.
What is the height of this building.. from floor to pitch exterior preferably much appreciated... in meters
Hi Brian, this building is about 3.7m tall from ground level to top of ridge tile
Can't believe they still you by 2by 8 sheets in england would you not get more done using 8 by 4 sheets
a 22mm 8 x 4 would weigh 43kg, so at that size would be a bit of an awkward bastard
Would that glue be good for squeaky chipboard flooring? I have the spax already just need a good glue. Would I need to wet the joints before applying? Keep up the good work.
Yes, absolutely, moisture does help with most PU glues but I would just use it as it comes
@@ukconstruction thank you for the reply.
Ive used that egger chipboard and adhesive flooring system many times, and I would suggest you dont get water any near it. The adhesive starts to cure quick enough as it is...wet accelerates the process, drastically reduces your working time and makes it foam up everywhere!!
@Robin Clevett why not use a D4 glue ? 🙂
Left the 'foam' adhesive? No clean up?
It would be much easier to scrape off the excess when dry.
Great video Robin. You always wear the same hearing protection, what system do you use?
These are By Hellberg and they are pretty good, Husqvarna do some nice ones and there are some in my amazon store if you want to look at them
@@ukconstruction thanks
Another great video, please keep them coming your videos and the ones on Skill Builder have helped me as a DIYer massively. Ive noticed on your last couple of videos you have been using your jigsaw from the bottom upwards when doing small cutouts, Do you find this more accurate, comfortable or have we all being doing it incorrectly for years, Thanks
Great video , never seen those little clips to hold the insulation board , would you be able to share a link ? Or point me in the right direction? Cheers
I’d like to know too 👍🏻
Is that the gap tape thing in the other video, where do the clips show, don’t suppose you have a time stamp?
@@lukamavericks7785 no there are some metal clips that are mentioned and you can see hanging over the edges of the joists
These are by simpson strong tie
👍
Robin clevett van tour ?
How is the VOC off gassing
I am not totally sure, I will have to look at the COSHH sheet for this glue, I would imagine that it is fine the manufacturers spend a fortune getting the product right
Hi Robin, what's the reason for putting the deck down after all the frames are up? We get the floor down first and put walls on top so you have a working platform and it's far less work to put down. Love your videos by the way
Hi Will, we do that too in most cases, but this job we wanted to get the roof on and in the dry before we laid the floor insulation so as we only had a couple of internal walls we decided to build allowing for the floor to go in once the roof was on, great question mate
What brand jigsaw is that please?
Hi Thomas, this it the new Hikoki multivolt machine its a great tool superb power and control
Great thank you, love your videos!
Hi Robin been watching your videos for quiet sometime now as i am a developer/contractor,i wanted to maybe get a price from you as i got a job coming up in goldaming gu8 Surrey ? let me know if you would be interested,the job is a new build house which i would need the roof 1st fix done.Awaiting your reply.
Send me a drawing by email and I will take a look, Nice one Mohsin, my email address is on my channel homepage
I really don’t like this method. I’ve used it on NHBC builds and I find it very messy, and still had problems with squeaky boards. For my own jobs I use pva in the joints and screw every board with floortite screws. It’s fast, neat and never ever get any squeaks or other problems. Can’t beat screws for holding down boards! I also use a tapping block or flooring bar saves mullering the edges with a timber off cut.
Well💖 😊👆🏼🎈
Bit odd
Its spam Shaun!!!
@@ukconstruction I love spam fritters.......
Could you nail these boards?
Yes if you like squeaky floors.
Why are chipboard flooring so popular nowadays? I would still prefer the timber floorboards
P5 are inexpensive, easy to lay and perform well.
Labour time and cost of boards.
I’d rather see screw fixings than glue; at least you’ve got some chance of getting the boards up when the house owner inevitably decides they want a new bathroom. The shower waste needs to move, they don’t want the basin on that wall any more and the WC’s in the wrong place. End result: a whole load of saw cuts to get access to waste and supply pipes. Sometimes I swear it’d be easier to take the ceiling off below..
Mate I served by time as an electrician but off the tools now. Part of my job is site inspection and I always tell the lads how difficult it will be to rewire a house constructed with modern methods. The floors, the metal C frame walls, etc. You'd be better off pulling the ceilings down to make a job of it, especially with the timber I beam type joists. Lifting the floor when the boards are glued to those will destroy the joists and structurally they're knackered.
@@Daniells1982 Lucky enough so far that I haven’t come across too many new builds but I agree with you. Easier, faster, safer and cheaper to remove the ceiling.
@@nicklane4714 absolutely. Easier said than done with someone living in the house mind. If it's not enough upheaval having a rewire or repiping a heating system you need to replace your ground floor ceilings throughout. Hopefully I'll have retired before we get to that point and it'll be some young bucks problem 😉
Give it 20 years and people will be cursing these methods
@@Daniells1982 It would be better to wire in conduit or trunking in a house with this system, that would make most of the rewire pretty straightforward. Nobody thinks that far ahead though.. someone else's problem.
Hi Robin. How much is your assistant paying you for the privilege of working with you?
He's a mate and he helps me from time to time, he has a masters in international finance and he has been teaching me stuff in return!!!
Fair enough but I was joking and giving you a complement at the same time😀
2:09 A little itchy 😂
"you really need gloves".
Doesn't wear gloves. Pro level.
As a handyman jobs can be easy as floor never fitted down no fixings at all or you come to the new way and your day just turned to pap. I love you're vids but belt and braces is your middle name . Even your door trims can never be removed . Replacement only nailed glue and adhesive .
That Hikoki Jigsaw is driving me mad .You try and buy one.
How do you mean sir?
@@jimdoherty5010 Seems to be not available in the Uk Amazion had some at a Premium Price not available now,Hikoki dealer did say they would be available in Sept but no news yet.Jeff
@@jeffgodon1335 ahhh right its just im looking at changing brands and love their framing nailer so was hoping the jigsaw was good,now I'm sure it is but like you say will find it tough to get one lol,if I see or hear anything I will post back here👍
I was going to ask you a question but you never seem to bother in answering them!
Try me Kevin
@kevin are you serious? Robin has over 30K subs over hundreds of videos...imagine how many comments that is on a daily basis. Grow up.
@@shandyooo Not much point in having a comments section if people like you are going to answer them