Hey, what’s up man I have a 1996 Ford F150 with a 351 Windsor I am wanting to put long tube headers on it but I ran into the same problem with the EGR. Could you give me some advice on what to do I have been researching it like crazy thank you.
I have a 97 and installed aftermarket manifolds. They dont have egr ports but they do have the thermoplugs. Can i use them for the egr tube connections?
I have never liked the idea of mixing exhaust gases with clean air for combustion. Always good to so an EGR Valve go bye-bye. Good example of doing your best with what you have. What year model Ford is that?
you would have to carb swap it or re-write the computer or get a stand alone ecu to make ot run "right". it ran just fine when i still had it. no issues other than running a little bit rich. it actually was hard to tell a difference in anything until i looked at the intake after about a month. with egr it was very dirty as one would expect, but after i "deleted" the egr system and cleaned the intake i looked at it and it was just as clean as the day i cleaned it. so in theory it should prolong engine life by keeping unburned carbon particulate from getting into the cylinders and dusting the engine. but as far as electronics go it would need retuned
i didnt have time to finish the video series because work needed the lift and i had to rush to get it done. i also sold the truck back in june of 2021. sorry man.
Do you have to delete the entire smog system to delete the EGR? I have a 1995 e350 van with a 351 Windsor thinking about removing the EGR but I am by no means a mechanic
well i had to take the whole system off because i put headers on. i had no exhaust at all other than the headers. also beware that if you take out the egr or O2 sensor it is gonna get a check engine light. also it may have a slight vacuum leak from removing the egr and that will most likely need plugged
and the smog pump doesnt HAVE to come off, just disconnected from the piping. but there is a company that makes an idler pulley to fill its spot if ya do take the smog pump off.
no i went on vacation with my family to the carolina's because id never been to the ocean and wanted to conquer the mountain. i love extreme hiking like that and i just liked the sweatshirt a lot so i wear it all the time.
I have a 1988 F250 w/351 windsor. Fixed exaust manifold leaks.Just changed the plugs,they were all White tan lean with 1,2,7,8 Chalk White except # 4 which was fouled. Truck has no balls,won't go up a hill unless in first(auto trans).I am an experienced Pro Harley mechanic and IBEW guy. I have No experience with 4 wheel EFI. Truck Guzzles Gas like an Abrams Tank. Don't see any gas line leaks.Head gaskets are good. No fumes or smoke from exaust pipe. There is No gas in the oil. I am Gonna try this EGR valve removal,Thanks for the video. Gonna pull the valve covers and Check#4 at least,never had problems like this with carbureted models.
my truck only got about 4 to 6 MPG on any given day after i put headers on it, also a stick shift which makes a big difference in drivability and the amount of balls it has. removing the egr only keeps exhaust gasses out of the intake and combustion chambers. gives a cleaner more efficient burning of the fuel. doesn't gain any noticeable power, but it does keep the top end and throttle body a whole lot cleaner. thanks for the watch and comment!
So,! Finished the exaust. Fabricated two 4 into twos with cherry bombs and baffles made out of satellite TV pipes drilled w/ a 7\8 hole saw inside the cherry bombs that expand to 3" straight back on both sides of the driveshaft turn out and down, slash cut parallel with the ground just barely visible in front of the (long bed extended cab) rear wheels. Cap and rotor clean, new Plugs, Plugs wires. I figured out the main problem when I did the timing. I took a chance on burning up the Ign module but common sense and a convenient 16 ga. jumper solved my running issues,power issues and crappy mileage (I'll replace it with a flat fuse as soon as I find one that fits) The EGR nut at the bottom was way loose already Bolted a carriage bolt and washer through the hole and welded polished and painted an acorn out of it, and made a block off plate out of 1/4" aluminum plate made a taillight out of the filter and parts of the soup can for a chopper. I have to wait for the shorter belt,so in the mean time I will hack up the junk I removed to as small a size as possible and plug it all back in to pass inspection. The idle raised slightly with the block off plate, but the cable could use some lube anyway, the throttle is actually responsive. I sure would like to kick a few "friends" in the nuts about the missing discontinued $100.00 Ford Part, but I'm Glad I didn't just throw money at the issue and eventually figured it out myself. will remove the pump and the rest of the piping and stuff when I get the belt but a definate immediate performance improvement! I Almost shredded the belt on first test drive after driving this slug with no advance for six months on Saturdays (only to the beer store)Thanks! Owe ya a Blatz!LOL
How did you trick the computer from throwing any codes? I have an 88 351 efi with the tube cut and welded. But throws a code. Seen fake plugs to trick the computer but not sure if they are legit.
@@noahludwick9738 I've heard they work or if you leave the EGR on after block off plate, cap the exhaust pipe and reconnect the EGR sensor (assuming solenoid is good) I have heard people claim it will trick it.
If you would've used the cutting oil that was sitting on your drill press, your drilling would have gone much easier and you would be saving your drill bit for future use. Just saying. As an Industrial Electrician we know the value of using cutting oil and proper RPM's to drill steel.
the drill press and bits were basically shot already and they belong to the farm i work for. ive used that press a lot and the oil does nothing for it and they wont replace the press or buy new bits. i appreciate the advise though!
I use a spray bottle with Isopropyl Alcohol to cool the bits, I hate cutting oil. Makes a mess, I can sharpen a bit better than new and I use a cutting wheel 6"
Hey, what’s up man I have a 1996 Ford F150 with a 351 Windsor I am wanting to put long tube headers on it but I ran into the same problem with the EGR. Could you give me some advice on what to do I have been researching it like crazy thank you.
I have a 97 and installed aftermarket manifolds. They dont have egr ports but they do have the thermoplugs. Can i use them for the egr tube connections?
I was thinking about painting my valve covers red. I think you just convinced me.
I have never liked the idea of mixing exhaust gases with clean air for combustion. Always good to so an EGR Valve go bye-bye.
Good example of doing your best with what you have.
What year model Ford is that?
1996
Ok but what else do u have to do to make the truck run right.
you would have to carb swap it or re-write the computer or get a stand alone ecu to make ot run "right". it ran just fine when i still had it. no issues other than running a little bit rich. it actually was hard to tell a difference in anything until i looked at the intake after about a month. with egr it was very dirty as one would expect, but after i "deleted" the egr system and cleaned the intake i looked at it and it was just as clean as the day i cleaned it. so in theory it should prolong engine life by keeping unburned carbon particulate from getting into the cylinders and dusting the engine. but as far as electronics go it would need retuned
Are you gonna upload the finished process? Been waiting for months in hopes you would.
i didnt have time to finish the video series because work needed the lift and i had to rush to get it done. i also sold the truck back in june of 2021. sorry man.
Do you have to delete the entire smog system to delete the EGR? I have a 1995 e350 van with a 351 Windsor thinking about removing the EGR but I am by no means a mechanic
well i had to take the whole system off because i put headers on. i had no exhaust at all other than the headers. also beware that if you take out the egr or O2 sensor it is gonna get a check engine light. also it may have a slight vacuum leak from removing the egr and that will most likely need plugged
and theres a port on the exhaust that will need welded shut if you keep the factory exhaust
and the smog pump doesnt HAVE to come off, just disconnected from the piping. but there is a company that makes an idler pulley to fill its spot if ya do take the smog pump off.
I noticed you where wearing a grandfather mountain hoodie you live close there
no i went on vacation with my family to the carolina's because id never been to the ocean and wanted to conquer the mountain. i love extreme hiking like that and i just liked the sweatshirt a lot so i wear it all the time.
I have a 1988 F250 w/351 windsor. Fixed exaust manifold leaks.Just changed the plugs,they were all White tan lean with 1,2,7,8 Chalk White except # 4 which was fouled. Truck has no balls,won't go up a hill unless in first(auto trans).I am an experienced Pro Harley mechanic and IBEW guy. I have No experience with 4 wheel EFI. Truck Guzzles Gas like an Abrams Tank. Don't see any gas line leaks.Head gaskets are good. No fumes or smoke from exaust pipe. There is No gas in the oil. I am Gonna try this EGR valve removal,Thanks for the video. Gonna pull the valve covers and Check#4 at least,never had problems like this with carbureted models.
my truck only got about 4 to 6 MPG on any given day after i put headers on it, also a stick shift which makes a big difference in drivability and the amount of balls it has. removing the egr only keeps exhaust gasses out of the intake and combustion chambers. gives a cleaner more efficient burning of the fuel. doesn't gain any noticeable power, but it does keep the top end and throttle body a whole lot cleaner. thanks for the watch and comment!
@renegade did you complete the delete have any problems…?
So,! Finished the exaust. Fabricated two 4 into twos with cherry bombs and baffles made out of satellite TV pipes drilled w/ a 7\8 hole saw inside the cherry bombs that expand to 3" straight back on both sides of the driveshaft turn out and down, slash cut parallel with the ground just barely visible in front of the (long bed extended cab) rear wheels. Cap and rotor clean, new Plugs, Plugs wires. I figured out the main problem when I did the timing. I took a chance on burning up the Ign module but common sense and a convenient 16 ga. jumper solved my running issues,power issues and crappy mileage (I'll replace it with a flat fuse as soon as I find one that fits) The EGR nut at the bottom was way loose already Bolted a carriage bolt and washer through the hole and welded polished and painted an acorn out of it, and made a block off plate out of 1/4" aluminum plate made a taillight out of the filter and parts of the soup can for a chopper. I have to wait for the shorter belt,so in the mean time I will hack up the junk I removed to as small a size as possible and plug it all back in to pass inspection. The idle raised slightly with the block off plate, but the cable could use some lube anyway, the throttle is actually responsive. I sure would like to kick a few "friends" in the nuts about the missing discontinued $100.00 Ford Part, but I'm Glad I didn't just throw money at the issue and eventually figured it out myself. will remove the pump and the rest of the piping and stuff when I get the belt but a definate immediate performance improvement! I Almost shredded the belt on first test drive after driving this slug with no advance for six months on Saturdays (only to the beer store)Thanks! Owe ya a Blatz!LOL
@@noahludwick9738 Have you checked your PCV valve? often overlooked and can cause lean conditions.
How did you trick the computer from throwing any codes? I have an 88 351 efi with the tube cut and welded. But throws a code. Seen fake plugs to trick the computer but not sure if they are legit.
i didnt trick the computer. i just ran it with the engine light on. it ran super rich but really woke the truck up
and i dont think those plugs work. personally ive never used them but i would say they probably dont do anything
@@noahludwick9738 I've heard they work or if you leave the EGR on after block off plate, cap the exhaust pipe and reconnect the EGR sensor (assuming solenoid is good) I have heard people claim it will trick it.
If you would've used the cutting oil that was sitting on your drill press, your drilling would have gone much easier and you would be saving your drill bit for future use. Just saying. As an Industrial Electrician we know the value of using cutting oil and proper RPM's to drill steel.
the drill press and bits were basically shot already and they belong to the farm i work for. ive used that press a lot and the oil does nothing for it and they wont replace the press or buy new bits. i appreciate the advise though!
I use a spray bottle with Isopropyl Alcohol to cool the bits, I hate cutting oil. Makes a mess, I can sharpen a bit better than new and I use a cutting wheel 6"
As a Pipe Welder and Fitter, I never use cutting oil, makes a mess and I never listen to a Kilowatt 😂
@IBEWelectronut all y'all use mostly is a unibit