Great video Tylor. I notice that in idle it is very difficult to maintain a even RPM with the foot throttle so im glad I was able to catch you video. Thanks love seeing your 6.4 videos I'm keeping my truck as long as I can keep it on the road. PS since my catch can install the air intake is much cleaner cold starts are smother air fuel ratio is no doubt giving a cleaner burn 👍
This video was super easy to follow and saved me so much money! Had the same issue with my 2008 F250 and the mechanic wanted $700 to fix. I ordered the sensor online, followed this video and fixed it for under $50.
@@mrbrown2106white smoke 💨 😱 don't want to say. Head gasket cracked piston all the above. Watch your coolant level and crankcase oil level and look for foaming on your dipstick and inside the oil filler cap and the can. If your oil is climbing up the dipstick you are most likely losing coolant into your crankcase 😱 this is all bad. Fix it fast coolant in your main bearings is bad bad bad. Oil and water foam is devastating you may have to make some serious decisions. These trucks will pull and work all day every day but they are not built race-ready. Never race a stock engine that is just asking for catastrophic problems.
Great video. Used this to complete a job this weekend. I will just add. Once you get the valve cover off, place a towel into the valve area under the injection connectors. If by chance, you drop anything you do not want it to go into the heads and block. That becomes very expensive.
Great video that was very helpful with procedure that enabled me to change sensor. Unfortunately, started truck and the symptom still existed.....Turns out the cause was the accelerator pedal!
I was always afraid to tear into the 6.4 but I had the exact same symptom and figured what the hell, awesome video. Really appreciate your time to post it and show the steps very well. Battles getting the valve cover off a bit but it idles like a champ now!
I am a diesel mechanic at a well known shop in FL… dude you actually just saved my ass on my own 6.4. I swore to god it wasnt idling right but i never could prove something was actually wrong. I actually had gone to a point to where I thought I was just having an OCD problem. Now I know I’m not fucking crazy and that my idle actually is fluctuating. I tried finding information identifix… I tried talking to other diesel techs… I started scoping out sensors and stuff… nothing I’ll admit the fuel pressure sensor seem to have slightly off readings but nothing enough to cause me to wanna replace it. Hmmm i feel like a real jackass now. Something is so stupid as a sensor it’s just barely not reading right.
Thanks for this! I am having the exact same issue with my 6.4l w/EGR delete and mini max tuner. Good quality of the video and you certainly saved me from taking it to the dealer.
I see you havent put a CCV catch can in. I have. Its a DIY 4X7" PVC 1" input and exit ports at the inlet it turns 90% down with a 6" well perforated 1/2 PVC tube to to take the CCV inlet flow down and have a more even spread throughout the can there is a 1.5" colection reservoir at the bottom with a 3/8" ball check drain valve with a perforated baffel plate as the top of reservior then the can is filed with SS wool like pot scribbies to just below the outlet port that is toped with a nother perforated baffle plate. All hung by 4.5" u-bolts and saddles. 1" ID tubing from the CCV exit port on the oil filler housing being sure not to have any kinks or crushing of the tuning down to the inlet of the can. I have run the exit to the back of the exhaust to atmosphere. as the amount of SS wool should act as a very efficient filter. There is very good CCV gases flow out of the Catch can you do not want to restrict that flow. That would cause crankcase pressure to build up causing seals and valve covers to pop and leak. I have had this can working for over 5K miles all appears OK. 👍
Awesome, I think I'm gonna have to try this! I was fear the worst when I noticed my truck doing this. This gives me hope that it's not a valvetrain issue!
This video needs more likes! Great quality, you used all the proper terms and it fixes the problem addressed! My 6.4 has 337,000 miles on the original engine and I’m too lazy to change out the FRP sensor, so I’m waiting for my injectors to start missing😆
@@jasongiese221 I sold my truck with 370,000 miles on it. It ran great when I sold it. I bought an F-150 since I went back to school and moved to FL. I got a Snapchat of the truck last week and I’m sure it’s running great, hopefully the guy hasn’t put any work into it haha
I love my 08 Super duty F350 when that engine is running there isnt any other truck that sounds as sweet. Working on them looks more intimidating then they are. Just follow the videos and if they say take the cab off make the effort. It will save you time and frustration. If you have to hire a guy with a small crain truck or other lifting device do it. You should be able to put the cab right on top of the box with acouple of 2X10's and some blocking. If space is a problem and then deal with that leftover down pipe from your EGR delete and rerought you EBP senceors and tubing. And do whatever else you might need to do. Just put the money together and have all the parts on hand. You and your truck will only benefit from it. PS my truck has 140K miles on it and this is now the end of 2023 happy new year 🎉🎉🎉
i’m having the same problem and occasionally getting a check engine light for low rail pressure. the fluctuation just started in past couple weeks and is the same as you described. could the sensor also cause a check engine light?
My 2008 f550 6.4 idles like this also but will hesitate as i gas it for power also has thrown p0087 it did this 3 months ago so i replaced filters. Filters were very dirty and full of mud looking particles inside. So i will be dropping tank and cleaning it up but still dont think it will solve the idling and code issue. Already replaced low pressure pump twice! Today i replaced it bcuz it it was under warranty from last time which it did fix for 3 months! Did not have idling issue the first time. Could i have a fuel pressure sensor issue?
Great video by the way, it's super high quality and you explain a lot in your video. I was able to complete this job because of a this video you made. This actually wasn't too bad of a job, I did it on a 2010 power stroke, that has around 260,xxx Miles on it. Thanks again for the great video, better than most diy car videos on RUclips.
My 6.4 miss seems more pronounced than your vid. When outside the truck you can hear it out of the exhaust sounding like a quick miss or skip every 20-30 seconds. It’s only at idle as well. I deleted dpf and cat so it’s much easier to hear. No check engine lights, it’s just been worrying me. Is this what yours was like? I guess I’ll have to start with the easy fixes and work my way up to this sensor...
jason none I would say that this sensor is likely your issue. It was pretty noticeable outside of my truck as well. Start with checking fuel filters, maybe add a fuel system cleaner to your fuel in case you have a sticking injector. If none of those easy things work then I would look at replacing the sensor. I tried everything I mentioned above but the sensor was definitely the right fix. Truck is still running smooth two months later.
I had this problem on a deleted '08. I called the manufacturer of my tuner, Gearboxz, and they said it was related to the AC compressor kicking on. I turned off the AC and sure enough it went away. Now I don't worry about it.
My 08 is doing the exact same thing. Never any abnormal smoke from the exhaust, but does occasionally go into limp mode. Shut it off & restart and everything goes back to normal except for the occasional idle fluctuation. So soon I'll get to this fix. Won't be as easy for me due to neck and shoulder issues, but I can take as long a needed being I'm retired now and don't need my truck as a daily driver.
@@garrylarose1506 bought a $40 fuel rail pressure sensor and installed it easy enough under the right side rocker cover. My wires under there leading to the sensor were fine, but sometimes they get frayed and the leads need replaced also. Hasn't so much as hiccuped since!
Could you tell me more about that rough idle with white smoke issue that you mentioned at the end? I've got that in my 2008 6.4. I was told theres a misfire. What do I need for a part? Could you tell me briefly what I need to do?
I have the same issue with my 2008 F350 6.4L. Idles rough, but as soon as I start driving it, it runs normal. I took it to a couple different shops, they diagnosed piston #7 running 10% low and told me a need a new motor. The other shop replaced my rail injector at that same piston, but the problem still persists. I am about to bite the bullet and get a rebuilt motor put in it, but before I do, I may take it to a 3rd shop for another diagnosis.
I got a third opinion and this Seidel mechanic shop confirmed I needed a new motor. It would be more costly to try and rebuild this one piston so they recommended installing a rebuilt or used motor. A rebuilt motor installed was going to set me back $20-24K, a used motor with about 200K installed was going to set me back $15-20K. I traded it in for a 2017 Toyota Tacoma. Got $9K on my trade in.
Chase Warnick It can be done with the cab on, however it is a pain to do. You can also unbolt the cab and lift from the from with bottle jacks about 4 inches. That gives you more clearance to remove the turbo.
Hey Taylor, nice video, super helpful. Quick question, did your boost go up while the issue was happening? And did you feel the truck shake a bit when it did it?
Since the issue was only at idle, there was no boost at all. I did not notice any irregularities with boost while driving either. This issue cleared up once driving. The truck did shake occasionally when the idle became more and more rough while sitting at idle for longer periods of time.
@@TaylorSmithCars, thank you. Mine only does it at operating temps when I'm at a traffic light or stopped, but I only notice it while in Drive, not so much in Parked or Neutral.
Ok so my 09 6.4 has been idling rough for a while but runs great when getting into the throttle. Today I stopped at a stop light and it ties. I cycle cranked it twice and it fired back up. I drove to my location and killed it. It cranked back up fine. I drove it to the gas station and got diesel. It cranked back up but seemed like it struggled. I turned out on the road and stepped on the throttle and it fell on its face and died. Now wont crank. I can hear my pump running when I turn key on. Could have the sensor gone completely out and causing my no crank issue?
You mentioned a rough idle and white smoke bellowing, can you elaborate on what direction for these symptoms? My truck has a light rough idle once you begin driving it seems to disappear; however, my wife said she noticed gray smoke coming out of the exhaust and if making significant acceleration it puts out black smoke which is typical for diesel's without the DPF.
Anyone know what might be causing my 6.4 to shake when I let off the accelerator but then rides smooth once I’m back on it. Not suspension or tires they’re all brand new. I just put diesel and it started doing that 😢
Hello. Great video, i like the way and pace how you give the info. I have a 2008 F250 6.4L 4x4 that has the monkey drums sound coming at the air filter box with P0284 Cyl 8 fuel contribution code, P0281 Cyl 7 contribution code P0269 cyl 3 contribution code, P0308 misfire Cyl8. I did the Buzz test with scantool, power balance test that was showing faulty Cyl 7 and low cyl 8 and 3, all other cylinders were good, i did relative compresion test that show the faulty cyl 7 and 8. I have good resistance test for all injectors, 3 psi at fuel test port at fuel cooler, new fuel filters the 10 microns and 4 microns. Because the sound is so loud at air box filter, do you think that i have a bad or mor exhaust valve (s)that is not moving and returning the backpressure to the intake valve? Do you think that the rocker arm tip is broken/bent that is not moving/making contact? Or Do you think that i have the notorious pushrod stuck? I do not think that the piston is not perforated because the sound is only at idle, after 2000 rpms the sound dissapear. I do not have open-stuck injector because i remove all the oil from the engine and put the KOEO to run the test and no leaks. The FRP sensor was giving good healty pressure for the 2 banks, so no stiction. Can you give some idea or analisys of what can be wrong?
This is a great tutorial and a huge help when I did mine this weekend. My next 2 repairs are the fan clutch and water pump. My question is after I primed the fuel system and started it up the check engine light is still on and the power feels as though it is still in a "limp mode". (My truck is entirely deleted.) I noticed at 40mph I wasn't getting much if any boost. Maybe to the first line. My question is do I have to clear the codes on my programmer before I drive it? And by clearing the codes will I get that power back?
Question.. mine does it at idle and when cruising at any speed. When the pressure is measured it jumps all around. Throws code (high pressure fuel intermentent) thoughts? Sensor issue?
Rodney Silva that sounds like the high pressure fuel pump to me. The sensor issue isn't as severe. Mine did not throw any codes and only hesitated at idle. I suppose I would start with filters first and then have a look at the pump if it does not have any restriction from the filters.
Hello question I'm having the same problem with the rought iddle. I'm pulling it apart tomarrow morning how lond was the prosses? Any thing I need to know any special tool needed ? Thks Steve
You should have changed your air filter, The restriction gauge is pulled in quite a bit. It's not a 10 mill nut, it's a 4 mill. The studs and bolts don't come out if you don't force them. You wasted your time putting a Napa sensor in.
All that work for a damn sensor. I'm picking up an f450 this weekend but luckily the 6.4 is already blown so I can start the Cummins swap. Not going down the Powerstroke headache route.
@@TaylorSmithCars so I did it first thing this morning drove it to work after ran perfect and no studer or hesitate on the acceleration. After work it whent back to the way it was Idk whats next any opinions?
Did you check the wires on the connector to the pressure sensor? If your wires are damaged you could have shorted out the new sensor. My wiring was okay fortunately.
@@TaylorSmithCars sorry about the late reply but the harness looked good but I'm gonna have to run some diagnostic on it tomorrow again and check the harness again as well thank you again Taylor.
Bryant Miller I can almost guarantee that is your problem, although you should check the filters first just in case. Start with the easier things and work your way up. This was about a 3 hour job.
@@TaylorSmithCars well good cause I won't lie I have watched alot of your videos since I have bought the truck and actually am looking at the same tuner as you so jw if I have any questions about they truck would you mind me asking cause alot of people around where I am don't know much
@@TaylorSmithCars awesome thank you new to it and well diesel in general lol and trying to fix what I can with out taking it to a shop so like I said your videos have helped alot actually decided to do an egr delete after watching that video
Hey Taylor question do you have an idea or where to start my truck said it was over heated today but I shut it down and then it read normal and was fine well for now
So my truck has been running rough. I’m getting the code that my sensor is intermittent. It’s very random when it decides to run rough. How well did it work for you with the replacing of the sensor?
I am no mechanic and don't know much about motors but this step by step video help me out and I got the job done. Thanks so much 🙏
Great video Tylor. I notice that in idle it is very difficult to maintain a even RPM with the foot throttle so im glad I was able to catch you video. Thanks love seeing your 6.4 videos I'm keeping my truck as long as I can keep it on the road. PS since my catch can install the air intake is much cleaner cold starts are smother air fuel ratio is no doubt giving a cleaner burn 👍
Just bought a 2008 450 with 100K. Love this info as i start my journey to Delete. Keep those videos coming .Thanks
This video was super easy to follow and saved me so much money! Had the same issue with my 2008 F250 and the mechanic wanted $700 to fix. I ordered the sensor online, followed this video and fixed it for under $50.
Garrett Cowart thanks for the feedback! Glad it helped!
@@TaylorSmithCars if it idles high when not in gear, and there is some white smoke when first driving...what may be the problem?? 😕
@@mrbrown2106white smoke 💨 😱 don't want to say. Head gasket cracked piston all the above. Watch your coolant level and crankcase oil level and look for foaming on your dipstick and inside the oil filler cap and the can. If your oil is climbing up the dipstick you are most likely losing coolant into your crankcase 😱 this is all bad. Fix it fast coolant in your main bearings is bad bad bad. Oil and water foam is devastating you may have to make some serious decisions. These trucks will pull and work all day every day but they are not built race-ready. Never race a stock engine that is just asking for catastrophic problems.
Great video. Used this to complete a job this weekend. I will just add. Once you get the valve cover off, place a towel into the valve area under the injection connectors. If by chance, you drop anything you do not want it to go into the heads and block. That becomes very expensive.
Great video that was very helpful with procedure that enabled me to change sensor. Unfortunately, started truck and the symptom still existed.....Turns out the cause was the accelerator pedal!
I was always afraid to tear into the 6.4 but I had the exact same symptom and figured what the hell, awesome video. Really appreciate your time to post it and show the steps very well. Battles getting the valve cover off a bit but it idles like a champ now!
I fixed my truck because of this video. Thanks!
I am a diesel mechanic at a well known shop in FL… dude you actually just saved my ass on my own 6.4. I swore to god it wasnt idling right but i never could prove something was actually wrong. I actually had gone to a point to where I thought I was just having an OCD problem. Now I know I’m not fucking crazy and that my idle actually is fluctuating. I tried finding information identifix… I tried talking to other diesel techs… I started scoping out sensors and stuff… nothing I’ll admit the fuel pressure sensor seem to have slightly off readings but nothing enough to cause me to wanna replace it.
Hmmm i feel like a real jackass now. Something is so stupid as a sensor it’s just barely not reading right.
Thanks for this! I am having the exact same issue with my 6.4l w/EGR delete and mini max tuner. Good quality of the video and you certainly saved me from taking it to the dealer.
What ended up being the problem
I see you havent put a CCV catch can in. I have. Its a DIY 4X7" PVC 1" input and exit ports at the inlet it turns 90% down with a 6" well perforated 1/2 PVC tube to to take the CCV inlet flow down and have a more even spread throughout the can there is a 1.5" colection reservoir at the bottom with a 3/8" ball check drain valve with a perforated baffel plate as the top of reservior then the can is filed with SS wool like pot scribbies to just below the outlet port that is toped with a nother perforated baffle plate. All hung by 4.5" u-bolts and saddles. 1" ID tubing from the CCV exit port on the oil filler housing being sure not to have any kinks or crushing of the tuning down to the inlet of the can. I have run the exit to the back of the exhaust to atmosphere. as the amount of SS wool should act as a very efficient filter. There is very good CCV gases flow out of the Catch can you do not want to restrict that flow. That would cause crankcase pressure to build up causing seals and valve covers to pop and leak. I have had this can working for over 5K miles all appears OK. 👍
Crushing of the tubing
Right on man thanks for the video! I don’t have any issues with my 6.4 but always like to see problems and solutions. I’m also in the same county!
Every single one of your videos is my exact problem, so glad i stumbled on your page, great information, very helpful! Thank you
Awesome, I think I'm gonna have to try this! I was fear the worst when I noticed my truck doing this. This gives me hope that it's not a valvetrain issue!
This video needs more likes! Great quality, you used all the proper terms and it fixes the problem addressed! My 6.4 has 337,000 miles on the original engine and I’m too lazy to change out the FRP sensor, so I’m waiting for my injectors to start missing😆
Black Rock I’m doing the exact same thing with 321,000 lol
What ended up happening
@@jasongiese221 I sold my truck with 370,000 miles on it. It ran great when I sold it. I bought an F-150 since I went back to school and moved to FL. I got a Snapchat of the truck last week and I’m sure it’s running great, hopefully the guy hasn’t put any work into it haha
Mine just started idle problem 😳 .so im doing research, thanks for the update.
@@jasongiese221 I’m sorry. I forgot to mention that I replaced the sensor soon after my comment and my idling issue was fixed.
Cross fingers... I’m about to do the same fuel rail replacement as you. Same exact symptoms lol. Thank you Taylor !
Did it work
I love my 08 Super duty F350 when that engine is running there isnt any other truck that sounds as sweet. Working on them looks more intimidating then they are. Just follow the videos and if they say take the cab off make the effort. It will save you time and frustration. If you have to hire a guy with a small crain truck or other lifting device do it. You should be able to put the cab right on top of the box with acouple of 2X10's and some blocking. If space is a problem and then deal with that leftover down pipe from your EGR delete and rerought you EBP senceors and tubing. And do whatever else you might need to do. Just put the money together and have all the parts on hand. You and your truck will only benefit from it. PS my truck has 140K miles on it and this is now the end of 2023 happy new year 🎉🎉🎉
i’m having the same problem and occasionally getting a check engine light for low rail pressure. the fluctuation just started in past couple weeks and is the same as you described. could the sensor also cause a check engine light?
Did you have any codes with this issue my truck is doing the samething just no codes
A tricky problem and you showed how to solve it,..thank you !
Thanks for the video Taylor! I have been having the same problem with my 6.4 hopfully this helps
Jared Holdeman no problem! This issue drove me nuts for probably 6 weeks. Not a huge issue, but just enough to really bother you.
Was that the problem
Trucks doing same thing but no codes. Was your truck throwing codes?
My 2008 f550 6.4 idles like this also but will hesitate as i gas it for power also has thrown p0087 it did this 3 months ago so i replaced filters. Filters were very dirty and full of mud looking particles inside. So i will be dropping tank and cleaning it up but still dont think it will solve the idling and code issue. Already replaced low pressure pump twice! Today i replaced it bcuz it it was under warranty from last time which it did fix for 3 months! Did not have idling issue the first time. Could i have a fuel pressure sensor issue?
Good video, thank you. Hey You tube I skip every single ad, every single one , every single time.
Love you and you have great videos
Great video by the way, it's super high quality and you explain a lot in your video. I was able to complete this job because of a this video you made. This actually wasn't too bad of a job, I did it on a 2010 power stroke, that has around 260,xxx Miles on it. Thanks again for the great video, better than most diy car videos on RUclips.
Great video, thank you for posting it! This helped me out tremendously.
hey man thanks for all the videos.. i am about to buy A used 2008 f350 any tips on what to look at?
My 6.4 miss seems more pronounced than your vid. When outside the truck you can hear it out of the exhaust sounding like a quick miss or skip every 20-30 seconds. It’s only at idle as well. I deleted dpf and cat so it’s much easier to hear. No check engine lights, it’s just been worrying me. Is this what yours was like? I guess I’ll have to start with the easy fixes and work my way up to this sensor...
jason none I would say that this sensor is likely your issue. It was pretty noticeable outside of my truck as well. Start with checking fuel filters, maybe add a fuel system cleaner to your fuel in case you have a sticking injector. If none of those easy things work then I would look at replacing the sensor. I tried everything I mentioned above but the sensor was definitely the right fix. Truck is still running smooth two months later.
Taylor Smith Thanks for the quick response! I’ll keep you posted on the progress.
I had this problem on a deleted '08. I called the manufacturer of my tuner, Gearboxz, and they said it was related to the AC compressor kicking on. I turned off the AC and sure enough it went away. Now I don't worry about it.
My 08 is doing the exact same thing. Never any abnormal smoke from the exhaust, but does occasionally go into limp mode. Shut it off & restart and everything goes back to normal except for the occasional idle fluctuation. So soon I'll get to this fix. Won't be as easy for me due to neck and shoulder issues, but I can take as long a needed being I'm retired now and don't need my truck as a daily driver.
did you end up fixing the issue? how did it go?
@@garrylarose1506 bought a $40 fuel rail pressure sensor and installed it easy enough under the right side rocker cover. My wires under there leading to the sensor were fine, but sometimes they get frayed and the leads need replaced also. Hasn't so much as hiccuped since!
@@olcowhand thats awesome, glad to hear it! Gives me hope
I have to do this, thanks for the video. Well done.
Could you tell me more about that rough idle with white smoke issue that you mentioned at the end? I've got that in my 2008 6.4. I was told theres a misfire. What do I need for a part? Could you tell me briefly what I need to do?
Your diagnosing it by shooting the parts cannon?
So what would the problem be if it's having the same problem but with subtle white smoke coming from the exhaust?
do you still have the truck? would be great ot get an update on your mileage and any other issues you've encountered. TIA.
Did that to my f250 6.4 ,, and is a pain in 🫣🫣,, is there a y video o how to replace rocker arms ?
I have the same issue with my 2008 F350 6.4L. Idles rough, but as soon as I start driving it, it runs normal. I took it to a couple different shops, they diagnosed piston #7 running 10% low and told me a need a new motor. The other shop replaced my rail injector at that same piston, but the problem still persists. I am about to bite the bullet and get a rebuilt motor put in it, but before I do, I may take it to a 3rd shop for another diagnosis.
What ended up happening
I got a third opinion and this Seidel mechanic shop confirmed I needed a new motor. It would be more costly to try and rebuild this one piston so they recommended installing a rebuilt or used motor. A rebuilt motor installed was going to set me back $20-24K, a used motor with about 200K installed was going to set me back $15-20K.
I traded it in for a 2017 Toyota Tacoma. Got $9K on my trade in.
I always thought head gaskets were a cab-off job but it looks like it could be done cab-on from what I saw in this video or am I way off?
Chase Warnick It can be done with the cab on, however it is a pain to do. You can also unbolt the cab and lift from the from with bottle jacks about 4 inches. That gives you more clearance to remove the turbo.
Did it Sputter and run rough? Like a misfire at idle? Any other symptoms to go with this?
Hey Taylor, nice video, super helpful. Quick question, did your boost go up while the issue was happening? And did you feel the truck shake a bit when it did it?
Since the issue was only at idle, there was no boost at all. I did not notice any irregularities with boost while driving either. This issue cleared up once driving. The truck did shake occasionally when the idle became more and more rough while sitting at idle for longer periods of time.
@@TaylorSmithCars, thank you. Mine only does it at operating temps when I'm at a traffic light or stopped, but I only notice it while in Drive, not so much in Parked or Neutral.
That sounds about right. I believe it was only noticeable once warmed up. It was definitely more dramatic in gear than in park.
Did it throw a dtc code on your tuner, i got the code p2291 injector control pressure too low.
Do you notice any difference on your mileage???
Was it throwing any codes?
Why do I have to remove 10 things to work on 1 thing every time? 🤦♂️
@@shakeituprdown2334 I want a fummins
Guess you never worked on late model truck
Classic trucks were more simple
Those days are gone
Well take it to a diesel tech.😢😱💩.
you ever dealt with the dreaded death wobble or had to change out the body mount bushings
I just fixed my death wobble. Was the track bar bushing and track bar ball joint .
Excellent video!! Thank you!!
Btw ,, in my truck when i did tne same thing youre doing, i noticed that the whole area there was kind of oily black , any thoughts? Why
While driving between 1500 and 2100 rpm’s my 08 6.4 doesn’t stay steady. The it will sound like it’s cutting out. Will this fix that?
Was your truck throwing a P2291 code?
Ok so my 09 6.4 has been idling rough for a while but runs great when getting into the throttle. Today I stopped at a stop light and it ties. I cycle cranked it twice and it fired back up. I drove to my location and killed it. It cranked back up fine. I drove it to the gas station and got diesel. It cranked back up but seemed like it struggled. I turned out on the road and stepped on the throttle and it fell on its face and died. Now wont crank. I can hear my pump running when I turn key on. Could have the sensor gone completely out and causing my no crank issue?
Any update on your issue?
Mines just did the same thing! Going to change the sensor now!
Did that problem show up on scanner
You mentioned a rough idle and white smoke bellowing, can you elaborate on what direction for these symptoms? My truck has a light rough idle once you begin driving it seems to disappear; however, my wife said she noticed gray smoke coming out of the exhaust and if making significant acceleration it puts out black smoke which is typical for diesel's without the DPF.
Black smoke lower your low boost fuel in the tuner to #2 and check your cold air filter and fuel filters. Good luck.
got a quick question
do I have to undo those studed bolts or no ?
Anyone know what might be causing my 6.4 to shake when I let off the accelerator but then rides smooth once I’m back on it. Not suspension or tires they’re all brand new. I just put diesel and it started doing that 😢
Can someone please help me figure out where the fuel rail pressure sensor is on my 2014 Ford Mustang v6 3.7?
Hello. Great video, i like the way and pace how you give the info. I have a 2008 F250 6.4L 4x4 that has the monkey drums sound coming at the air filter box with P0284 Cyl 8 fuel contribution code, P0281 Cyl 7 contribution code P0269 cyl 3 contribution code, P0308 misfire Cyl8. I did the Buzz test with scantool, power balance test that was showing faulty Cyl 7 and low cyl 8 and 3, all other cylinders were good, i did relative compresion test that show the faulty cyl 7 and 8. I have good resistance test for all injectors, 3 psi at fuel test port at fuel cooler, new fuel filters the 10 microns and 4 microns.
Because the sound is so loud at air box filter, do you think that i have a bad or mor exhaust valve (s)that is not moving and returning the backpressure to the intake valve? Do you think that the rocker arm tip is broken/bent that is not moving/making contact? Or Do you think that i have the notorious pushrod stuck? I do not think that the piston is not perforated because the sound is only at idle, after 2000 rpms the sound dissapear. I do not have open-stuck injector because i remove all the oil from the engine and put the KOEO to run the test and no leaks. The FRP sensor was giving good healty pressure for the 2 banks, so no stiction.
Can you give some idea or analisys of what can be wrong?
This is a great tutorial and a huge help when I did mine this weekend. My next 2 repairs are the fan clutch and water pump. My question is after I primed the fuel system and started it up the check engine light is still on and the power feels as though it is still in a "limp mode". (My truck is entirely deleted.) I noticed at 40mph I wasn't getting much if any boost. Maybe to the first line. My question is do I have to clear the codes on my programmer before I drive it? And by clearing the codes will I get that power back?
@@blueepp2603 honestly I dont remember. I sincerely wish I could help you with that.
Question.. mine does it at idle and when cruising at any speed. When the pressure is measured it jumps all around. Throws code (high pressure fuel intermentent) thoughts? Sensor issue?
Rodney Silva that sounds like the high pressure fuel pump to me. The sensor issue isn't as severe. Mine did not throw any codes and only hesitated at idle. I suppose I would start with filters first and then have a look at the pump if it does not have any restriction from the filters.
Awesome video bro. Doing this tomorrow on my 2010. 👍👍
Thanks for the info. Really appreciate it.
Would it ever turn off?
Post some 6.4 videos hoss love the content
Hello question I'm having the same problem with the rought iddle. I'm pulling it apart tomarrow morning how lond was the prosses? Any thing I need to know any special tool needed ? Thks Steve
What ended up happening
Was this blowing smoke and causing a misfire in a specific cylinder?
My 6.7 is doing what you are talking about have you found a solution
What is best things to look for to know this 6.4 is to far gone
Did you have improved throttle response?
About to try this fix on my 08 6.4. Just wondering how long that took you to complete? I would assume a half day maybe?
Chris Heimerman I believe it took me about 4 hours or so
Did it solve the problem
You should have changed your air filter, The restriction gauge is pulled in quite a bit. It's not a 10 mill nut, it's a 4 mill. The studs and bolts don't come out if you don't force them. You wasted your time putting a Napa sensor in.
All that work for a damn sensor. I'm picking up an f450 this weekend but luckily the 6.4 is already blown so I can start the Cummins swap. Not going down the Powerstroke headache route.
They all have there issues like the but and bolt falling in the intake from the cold air heater box. Etc...😱💩
But and bolt
Nut and bolt
@kevinoneill41 that's the 6.7. Easy fix, not even an issue once done. But I'm going a CR 5.9 so it won't even be a concern.
The heads must be 100+ lb putting them back with out damage to the head gaskets is more risky.
Mine is idling rough and also loss of power.. but mine is blowing white smoke.. please help
what was the problem?
Thank you. Liked and subscribed
Excellent job....
Thank you
Thank you.
Juan Aburto what code where u getting
You ordered new gaskets right
carlos Fierro I reused the valve cover gasket. It was in good shape.
@@TaylorSmithCars so I did it first thing this morning drove it to work after ran perfect and no studer or hesitate on the acceleration. After work it whent back to the way it was Idk whats next any opinions?
@@TaylorSmithCars thanks man
Did you check the wires on the connector to the pressure sensor? If your wires are damaged you could have shorted out the new sensor. My wiring was okay fortunately.
@@TaylorSmithCars sorry about the late reply but the harness looked good but I'm gonna have to run some diagnostic on it tomorrow again and check the harness again as well thank you again Taylor.
Great info thanks
Must say, well done 👍🏻
Powerstroke Ryan thank you!
Taylor Smith You’re welcome!
saved me 968 bucks❤
Great video!!!
Taylor my 08 is doing the same thing really dramatic at idle could it be the same issue cause runs fine at speed
Bryant Miller I can almost guarantee that is your problem, although you should check the filters first just in case. Start with the easier things and work your way up. This was about a 3 hour job.
@@TaylorSmithCars well good cause I won't lie I have watched alot of your videos since I have bought the truck and actually am looking at the same tuner as you so jw if I have any questions about they truck would you mind me asking cause alot of people around where I am don't know much
Bryant Miller Absolutely! Happy to help with any questions you might have.
@@TaylorSmithCars awesome thank you new to it and well diesel in general lol and trying to fix what I can with out taking it to a shop so like I said your videos have helped alot actually decided to do an egr delete after watching that video
Hey Taylor question do you have an idea or where to start my truck said it was over heated today but I shut it down and then it read normal and was fine well for now
Hey
So my truck has been running rough. I’m getting the code that my sensor is intermittent. It’s very random when it decides to run rough. How well did it work for you with the replacing of the sensor?
I also have done all the obvious things.. added additives, and replaced filters. Etc.
It has been nearly 2 years since I replaced this sensor and the truck has had no issues since. It is a common problem on these trucks.
Thank you