Just got a call from the dealership, they wanted a million dollars for head gasket replacement. I freaked out and got on YT and started watching your videos, and I feel a LOT better now. This looks really difficult...but I think I can pull it off with these videos. Thank you!
P.S. I have helped a few people now since I first saw this video. But do not use a 1/2 inch or any impact driver it will destroy the little bodycage around the cab mount nut ford put locktight on the bolt threads. Just have to bight the big one on this get the braker bar and brake the bolt free. I have a long ratcheting braker but don't use that impact driver. Once the cab was off we cleaned up the area brassed the nuts in place primed and seald the area put some anti seize on threads because if you ever have to take the cab off again you will thank your self. I hear cab mounts don't last but I am looking in to O-ringed heads valve guides seats and springs rockers and a set of oil sprayer valve covers if I have to take the cab off and do gaskets. Good luck on your 6.4 oh ya modified turbo oilcoler. Stoock oil cooler has a tendency to plug up
Yes just did it by following your video. Was easy, took 4-5 hours at home with hand tools. Called a picker truck to lift it off. Swapped engine and now waiting to replace cab. Need to delete egr first and replace shocks. Easy to work on with cab off. Way to go Ford.
Thanks my good man. Great video. I have watched this twice now. My 08. 6.4 is not showing any signs of requiring this type of work yet. However to days, the date is July 04, 2023. The odometer is 215000 km Canada ha 😊 something like 135000 miles deleted 20000 miles back. excellent maintenance records. Just completed a major trans restoration, and a complete break re & re. This is a forever truck. I will keep redoing whatever it needs. I love this truck that much. It's just a matter of who outlasts the other me or the truck 👍😂🤣😅😉😊👌
As someone who does this for a living I was curious to see the video. It's a great video. I don't really have anything to add. If anyone has electrical trouble after putting it back together, those three connectors on the driver side are a likely culprit, unplug and replug them... also if you miss a cable going back on a battery terminal. Those are the big two things to check on electrical issues afterwards. Those bushing bolts can be the devil. I've had to burn a couple out.
@@darkirondiesel I forgot one on the passenger side my very first time and it went in to anti-theft mode. We have The Ford IDS system though. Our fleet had about 20 of these 6.4s now we're down to about 4. Not gonna lie, ready to see them go.
I’m swapping f350 cab, damaged in roll over, with a salvaged f250 cab. Thank you for your video, it was encouraging. Especially “it’s easier than you think “ title. Ha-ha...
Thanks seen this video a few times it is the best sofar great job thanks haven't needed it yet. The date now is Nov. 12 2024. My 08 Superduty truck has like 140K miles on it deleted as soon as the warranty was off. Problems have been rear main seal under warranty. Front plate. My fault didn't deal with a crack in the upper rad. Looks like the rear main is leaking and I just had the Trans. redone and had a little up grade. Looks like cluch matierial in the oil and breakes and tires. Now its got a coolant mystery
Disconnect rad hose on the passenger side instead, it works just as well lifting and avoids the mess, also on the auto shift linkage the part you took off is actually the adjuster and you can just pry that unit off rather than disassembling... Ebrake cable disconnect I used to pry the two vice grips like you did until a friend showed me how to stick a block in there and use an air chisel to vibrate it out....may have a couple other suggestions but can't remember them now.... Fantastic content!!!!
I found pulling the harnes off the above the back of the engine on the fire wall with out braking the cheep little leavers the most difficult. I start playing with them all most right away spray them down wiggle them but don't pry on them they will come just be patient. When putting your electric conectors back put a little of that dielectric grease on them might help for the next time its like putting high heat antiseiz on stuberin nuts and bolts. But be causious
Thanks for the video. 30 years in trade but I never pulled a cab on of these. Today is the day, we have a bunch of these older 6.4 in our fleet so I am sure it won't be my last. Great video.
Haave you seen the valve covers that have oil sprayers in them for the rockers, great idea and they look cool too. If you got a line on a supplier that would be great.
Excellent informative video! From my experience with the cab mount bolts, I realized that if you heat the bolts first, it loosens the factory lock tite and they come out a little easier without breaking the nut lose on the other side. Great video! 👍
I’m currently doing a Cummins swap in a 2010. Debating on using our crane truck to yank the cab and set it on the flat bed after seeing this! lol. Talk about tons of room!!
Would like to start off by thanking you for the video! This made this job so much easier in pulling the cab. I got a 2010 F250 6.4L that the bed plate is leaking on. So had to learn how to pull the cab. Again, I thank you very much for the detailed video. It saved me countless hours of messing around.
I thank you for heads up about this coolant splash. Here is my solution...using wide flat sqrudriver gently separate those tubes until coolant starts to dripping. Then pull I’d down gently to increase a gap. Thank for your warning not one drop got on the ground.
Soaked in coolant and missed the bucket glad I'm not the only one who does that every time lmao. You must be gifted with a very special type of patience. I'd be loosing my mind at the cab mounts not cooperating I have to replace my cab mounts on my 05 chevy 2500 and they look about 10 times nastier than the ones on this truck do lol.
Dude thats so easy to lift you have now given me courage to use my master craft forklift to lift my 4 door off and do it's 6.4 head gasket thanks a ton for the video's definitely subscribed 🤘
I sure hope you are getting paid for this video. You just got me out of a pinch. The vacuum line going to the bottom of the battery box (vacuum canister), I don’t remember where the line went. Your video pointed it out and I’m very grateful! Great video with no bs or filler.
Thanks for making this detailed series. Family friend of ours had an EGR go bad in his and I believe something else in the bottom end. I remember him telling me about this cab deal, and I always wanted to see it done. Definitely subscribed.
I don't believe 134a is particularly harmful to the atmosphere, at least relatively. The main reason venting is illegal is due to the wording of the regulations. They banned venting the bad ones and "any replacements" for the bad ones, regardless of the hazards or lack thereof. Not saying to vent it, just an FYI.
Thanks Man, you cover all the questions I had in my head about pulling the cab. Steering, brakes and a/c. The last guy who worked on my truck, never hooked a bunch of stuff back up. And never put my Freon back in. You also covered bunch of stuff I wasn't think about like strap the cab to the hoist. Awesome video. I've done thermostats rad hoses, new degas bottle and power steering pump/ hydro boost. I think I will vacuum out the power steering reservoir. When get wet again splitting the lower rad hose I won't feel so bad.
I pulled it did the HPFP and 8 injectors... put it back together apparently bent the 1 return oil lines, pulled it again, much faster the second time. Fixed it put it back together knowing the bearings were a little out of spec on the High pressure... truck was sounding awesome almost had the air out of the fuel. Blew the turbo, if I wasn't on a budget I wouldn't have chanced it, I would have just did the turbo too. Soon as in get my taxes paid this year. Turbo will be the next big purchase.
LOL! 5 gallon bucket fit's near perfect right under that middle rad hose (only took me 12 tries to figure that out!) Screwdriver in one hand to slowly pry it apart, the other hand on the top of the split, holding the two pieces from coming apart too fast and guiding the flow into the bucket. 1 or two streams down your arm. Great video. Looks like I'll need a crane truck to do it as well.
Great video! Once we build our shop I just wanna take my cab off and do all kinds of stuff under the hood, great in-depth video on how to do it! Probably my favorite video
Man you're a godsend. I have to replace my front seal, front and rear crank, rear main and trans pan gaskets. Costs too much to have a shop do it. My buddy has a lift and I'm gonna try my hand at pulling this beast apart.
I have a friend who bought a 6.4 just after they were released…blew a head gasket 2 months after he bought it…previous owner had a high hp tune and stock parts. Got totaled 2 months after he replaced everything and bulletproof’d it.
Good video. Didn't read all the comments but the transmission cable connection just pops off with a cat's paw. No need to disassemble the cable or mess with the adjustment
Nice tutorial! It is the wiring, I am most concerned with when lifting the cab-off and not missing anything.You have to think in reverse of pulling and engine. I do have to say, I have done the rad 3 times (6.4 coolant rad leaks) and have only stayed dry once.
Some how I'm losing coolent but I'm left with a vacuum. When I release the cap I get air bubbles from the small return line to the degas tank. It holds a vacuum for a day or two. I have replaced the cap. There is no puddling anywhere under the truck. It is like the equivlient to losing a beer can of coolant every couple of days. No white smoke nothing on the oil cap or dipstick its deleted I can't find coolant any where. Further more Ford coolant is almost clear I have replaced all the orings on the upper and lower radiator hoses still has the same symptoms 🤔🙄 its driving me crazy. PS temp is betwen 86 and 96. If im in bumper to bumper stop and go trafic it like 185/186 if I'm moving its 195/196 I thought it might be an air lock but I can't seem to get it to make a difference. 🤬
It becomes a systemic thing when you work on these trucks kind of regularly.... You think in terms of different systems and categories and those smaller groups help to break down the whole job so it's not so overwhelming... Same deal with troubleshooting, systems and subsystems work as categorization and then the smaller groups avoid the clutter.... People who hear about this way to work on these criticize it, but in reality a guy that is versed in cab pulls can do many jobs on these trucks faster than the other brands that don't encourage cab pulls for general repairs.... The super duty, has continued to improve the engineering with cab pulls intended as part of repair.,.. right or wrong it was how it was designed to be repaired
@@UpstateWoodchuck I see both sides of the deal. N one hand it’s a chore to do extra work, but on the other hand, there isn’t a lot to it per say, and could from the looks of it l do an out frame in the same time as an in frame.
Take pictures lots of pictures and maybe a few short videos with some narrative. Good luck. It really isn't that hard. The hard part is setting up and preparin. So just get everything you want done and ordered so it's up. Off and on ready to go no weighting for parts etc.. Then it's crack that first nut or bolt.
Dude!, you F****** literally save my ass! I Google it (lift cab off the frame), and your video came up first!!👍 Thank God! You talk about every single little thing, about lifting the cab off the chassis!!!👍👍✌️🍺
now I see why they charge me so much to do the head gasket job plus they always break something charge me more The two garages I used both of them I feel screwed me over. thank Your video I will try it myself next time
I have a 2008 f250 power stroke 6.4. I recently had oil coming out of the coolant tank and it overheated but it was random and happened shortly after i had just fired it up. I’d love to chat and see if you think it’s a head gasket for sure or possibly oil cooler or egr cooler. Thanks for your time and i appreciate your videos they are very helpful
They could, but after pulling about 30 cabs I’ve found it best to just impact them out. I’ve never had one break, but I have had lots seize up. I find if you just zip them out with an impact it lowers the risk of having one seize up.
thanks for the video I watched a guy pull the engine without removing the cab I will remove the cab. stupid engineering. but thank you for saving me some gray hair trying to get my engine out washout pulling the cab first. should have watched your video first.. thank you
High pressure turbo went out and bedplate leak 🙃 waiting for my brother to get his pull barn built so we can attempt a fix, unless I decide to just pay the dealer lol
Great video have a question maybe you can answer or some of your subscribers can need to replace oil pan on my 2009 F350 super duty is there away to do that with out jacking engine up like all the videos i see out there
This is a good time to delete that EGR get the kit and what ever tuner you want. I went with the Minni Max but i hear that they were taken of the market. You dont need a race tune just somthing that will keep it close to stock. Unless your are stripping this engine down to build a race engine. Do not use the stock engine to race. You will do catastrophic damage to the internal parts. If your just doing a Cat, DPf,and EGR Delete. To increase longevity and MPG.this engine along with good maintanence should last a long time. Depending on Milage you may want to look at rockers and injecters now. I mean the cab is up. It is a bit of extra cost but an ounce of pervention. As they say. Nows the time. Also there is a sencer under the right side valve cover that can be problemmatic maybe just replace it. As well take the EGR coolers off and the down pipe right back to the passenger side up pipe. PS if your going to keep this truck nows the time to spend a. Little $ get the Bullitproof oil cooler with external water and oil filters. In my opinion it is a good investment and nows the time.
I have a 08' 350 crew short bed dually with the v10.. I need to get the passenger side valve cover off and the book says to unblolt the engine mounts on the passenger side and loosen the engine mounts on the driver side, have to disconnect exhaust at the cats... The v10 is tighter than the 5.4 but more room than that 6.4 for sure.. Seems like, if I unbolted the cab on the passenger side and jacked up a couple inches and pulled it over about an inch.. I wouldn't really need to disconnect anything and would get enough to squeeze that valve cover off?? Do you have thoughts on that.. Do you think it would damage anything? Most everting connecting has a couple inches or more of slack or flex.. Thanks for sharing..
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Just got a call from the dealership, they wanted a million dollars for head gasket replacement. I freaked out and got on YT and started watching your videos, and I feel a LOT better now. This looks really difficult...but I think I can pull it off with these videos.
Thank you!
P.S. I have helped a few people now since I first saw this video. But do not use a 1/2 inch or any impact driver it will destroy the little bodycage around the cab mount nut ford put locktight on the bolt threads. Just have to bight the big one on this get the braker bar and brake the bolt free. I have a long ratcheting braker but don't use that impact driver. Once the cab was off we cleaned up the area brassed the nuts in place primed and seald the area put some anti seize on threads because if you ever have to take the cab off again you will thank your self. I hear cab mounts don't last but I am looking in to O-ringed heads valve guides seats and springs rockers and a set of oil sprayer valve covers if I have to take the cab off and do gaskets. Good luck on your 6.4 oh ya modified turbo oilcoler. Stoock oil cooler has a tendency to plug up
Yes just did it by following your video. Was easy, took 4-5 hours at home with hand tools. Called a picker truck to lift it off. Swapped engine and now waiting to replace cab. Need to delete egr first and replace shocks. Easy to work on with cab off. Way to go Ford.
Thanks my good man. Great video. I have watched this twice now. My 08. 6.4 is not showing any signs of requiring this type of work yet. However to days, the date is July 04, 2023. The odometer is 215000 km Canada ha 😊 something like 135000 miles deleted 20000 miles back. excellent maintenance records. Just completed a major trans restoration, and a complete break re & re. This is a forever truck. I will keep redoing whatever it needs. I love this truck that much. It's just a matter of who outlasts the other me or the truck 👍😂🤣😅😉😊👌
As someone who does this for a living I was curious to see the video. It's a great video. I don't really have anything to add. If anyone has electrical trouble after putting it back together, those three connectors on the driver side are a likely culprit, unplug and replug them... also if you miss a cable going back on a battery terminal. Those are the big two things to check on electrical issues afterwards. Those bushing bolts can be the devil. I've had to burn a couple out.
The power cable on the driver side battery got me once, couldn’t figure out why nothing happened when I turned the key
@@darkirondiesel I forgot one on the passenger side my very first time and it went in to anti-theft mode. We have The Ford IDS system though. Our fleet had about 20 of these 6.4s now we're down to about 4. Not gonna lie, ready to see them go.
I’m swapping f350 cab, damaged in roll over, with a salvaged f250 cab. Thank you for your video, it was encouraging. Especially “it’s easier than you think “ title. Ha-ha...
Haha you got this!
Thanks seen this video a few times it is the best sofar great job thanks haven't needed it yet. The date now is Nov. 12 2024. My 08 Superduty truck has like 140K miles on it deleted as soon as the warranty was off. Problems have been rear main seal under warranty. Front plate. My fault didn't deal with a crack in the upper rad. Looks like the rear main is leaking and I just had the Trans. redone and had a little up grade. Looks like cluch matierial in the oil and breakes and tires. Now its got a coolant mystery
Disconnect rad hose on the passenger side instead, it works just as well lifting and avoids the mess, also on the auto shift linkage the part you took off is actually the adjuster and you can just pry that unit off rather than disassembling... Ebrake cable disconnect I used to pry the two vice grips like you did until a friend showed me how to stick a block in there and use an air chisel to vibrate it out....may have a couple other suggestions but can't remember them now.... Fantastic content!!!!
I found pulling the harnes off the above the back of the engine on the fire wall with out braking the cheep little leavers the most difficult. I start playing with them all most right away spray them down wiggle them but don't pry on them they will come just be patient. When putting your electric conectors back put a little of that dielectric grease on them might help for the next time its like putting high heat antiseiz on stuberin nuts and bolts. But be causious
Thanks for the video. 30 years in trade but I never pulled a cab on of these. Today is the day, we have a bunch of these older 6.4 in our fleet so I am sure it won't be my last. Great video.
Your video help me out so much never pulled a cab till today watched every step by step everything went smooth
I’m about to do it on my 6.4 do u have any tips it’s a 4 door not sure if it’s much different
Haave you seen the valve covers that have oil sprayers in them for the rockers, great idea and they look cool too. If you got a line on a supplier that would be great.
Excellent informative video! From my experience with the cab mount bolts, I realized that if you heat the bolts first, it loosens the factory lock tite and they come out a little easier without breaking the nut lose on the other side. Great video! 👍
Anybody have the cab mounts all rotted out themselves?
I’m currently doing a Cummins swap in a 2010. Debating on using our crane truck to yank the cab and set it on the flat bed after seeing this! lol. Talk about tons of room!!
Would like to start off by thanking you for the video! This made this job so much easier in pulling the cab. I got a 2010 F250 6.4L that the bed plate is leaking on. So had to learn how to pull the cab. Again, I thank you very much for the detailed video. It saved me countless hours of messing around.
I thank you for heads up about this coolant splash. Here is my solution...using wide flat sqrudriver gently separate those tubes until coolant starts to dripping. Then pull I’d down gently to increase a gap. Thank for your warning not one drop got on the ground.
I use the screw driver trick too! Glad it helped you
Thanks bro I got the cab pulled in 3 hrs you da man!
Thank you. I know thats a lot of extra effort to film. I know you've help me and a lot of others I'm sure.
Good shit man I'm a mechanic and hate working on diesels cuz its intimidating ran across your video and made me more confident
Soaked in coolant and missed the bucket glad I'm not the only one who does that every time lmao. You must be gifted with a very special type of patience. I'd be loosing my mind at the cab mounts not cooperating I have to replace my cab mounts on my 05 chevy 2500 and they look about 10 times nastier than the ones on this truck do lol.
I freak out a lot off camera lol
Well done. One of the best I've seen. I have to pull a cab with a crane and it's my first cab pull, so thanks for the video.
Just make sure you spread the weight out on the slings as much as you can or it can dent the door, the wider the slings the better
@Dark Iron Diesel
Stop saying "rad cap"! You sound like a Gen Z person. It's a Radiator Cap.
Dude thats so easy to lift you have now given me courage to use my master craft forklift to lift my 4 door off and do it's 6.4 head gasket thanks a ton for the video's definitely subscribed 🤘
I sure hope you are getting paid for this video. You just got me out of a pinch.
The vacuum line going to the bottom of the battery box (vacuum canister), I don’t remember where the line went. Your video pointed it out and I’m very grateful! Great video with no bs or filler.
Thanks for making this detailed series. Family friend of ours had an EGR go bad in his and I believe something else in the bottom end. I remember him telling me about this cab deal, and I always wanted to see it done. Definitely subscribed.
I don't believe 134a is particularly harmful to the atmosphere, at least relatively. The main reason venting is illegal is due to the wording of the regulations. They banned venting the bad ones and "any replacements" for the bad ones, regardless of the hazards or lack thereof. Not saying to vent it, just an FYI.
Thanks Man, you cover all the questions I had in my head about pulling the cab. Steering, brakes and a/c. The last guy who worked on my truck, never hooked a bunch of stuff back up. And never put my Freon back in. You also covered bunch of stuff I wasn't think about like strap the cab to the hoist. Awesome video. I've done thermostats rad hoses, new degas bottle and power steering pump/ hydro boost. I think I will vacuum out the power steering reservoir. When get wet again splitting the lower rad hose I won't feel so bad.
I pulled it did the HPFP and 8 injectors... put it back together apparently bent the 1 return oil lines, pulled it again, much faster the second time. Fixed it put it back together knowing the bearings were a little out of spec on the High pressure... truck was sounding awesome almost had the air out of the fuel. Blew the turbo, if I wasn't on a budget I wouldn't have chanced it, I would have just did the turbo too. Soon as in get my taxes paid this year. Turbo will be the next big purchase.
LOL! 5 gallon bucket fit's near perfect right under that middle rad hose (only took me 12 tries to figure that out!) Screwdriver in one hand to slowly pry it apart, the other hand on the top of the split, holding the two pieces from coming apart too fast and guiding the flow into the bucket. 1 or two streams down your arm. Great video. Looks like I'll need a crane truck to do it as well.
Hahah right on! If you find someone with a gantry with a come-along on it you can pick it up that way too
Great video, a big help for those of us without a lot of Ford experience. 2 post lift and me had the cab off in about 4 hours. Thanks again!
Great video! Once we build our shop I just wanna take my cab off and do all kinds of stuff under the hood, great in-depth video on how to do it! Probably my favorite video
Thanks buddy! Ya it’s really not that hard especially if you have a 2 post hoist. Or a gantry works good too.
I need the job on my truck actually and I don't have tools of any ,so I need someone to do it for me you know.
Great video very detailed I’m am going to be doing my manual crew cab we will try to do as good a job as you I hope thanks
We have different definitions of “easy”
Yea I think we do I’m just trying to do turbos 😭
Great video! You covered everything quickly. Good filming and good job explaining it. Thanks for making it. Helped me remove my 2008 F550.
Dam and it's just lifting the cab.
Very good! Love the transcript too! If you had to write this up step-by-step step I don’t think we’d see you for a long time.
Thanks for this video I literally watched this & did step by step on an 08 f550, thanks for the video really helped me out
As a diy person wanting to work on my truck, this seems like a bit of work. One of those jobs, you may regret starting. :)
Thanks for making this video! I need to have some work done on my 2008 and this will help me be more knowledgeable when I take it into the shop.
Just want to thank you for your vid. Good naritive. Well done
Love it! I’m replacing the short block in mine. I appreciate your time in videoing and explaining!
I enjoy your contents alot man. You should video record all the work you do and show us. The way you explain things makes it fun watching.
Thanks buddy! I try to film as much as I can but it definitely makes a job take longer when I have to film the whole thing haha.
Great video! Thanks for being so thorough. Saved me a heap of trouble
Love the details and step by step process. Thanks should make my job a whole lot easier.
Thank you very much for the step by step. It’s the best one of its kind and really helped me a lot. So thanks again.
Great video! Really appreciate you putting the effort into this. Saved me a ton of money and I learned a great deal performing the job on my own.
thank you for
explaining in a way that is easy to understand,
Huge help man i appreciate the detailed walk through.
Man you're a godsend. I have to replace my front seal, front and rear crank, rear main and trans pan gaskets. Costs too much to have a shop do it. My buddy has a lift and I'm gonna try my hand at pulling this beast apart.
Hell ya brother just make sure you strap the cab down to the lift
@@darkirondiesel I will... I've already shed enough tears 😂
Cab went back on today. Your video helped me a ton. Thanks again!
Thank you so much for making the job a piece of cake
Awesome job with this video, and creative way to lift, Thanks
I have a friend who bought a 6.4 just after they were released…blew a head gasket 2 months after he bought it…previous owner had a high hp tune and stock parts. Got totaled 2 months after he replaced everything and bulletproof’d it.
Good video. Didn't read all the comments but the transmission cable connection just pops off with a cat's paw. No need to disassemble the cable or mess with the adjustment
Thanks for the info!
It is definitely a high 5. You did a great job . I will pay your tikets and come to Mexico and change my turbo on my truck
Nice vid, very informative. We appreciate your video
Nice tutorial! It is the wiring, I am most concerned with when lifting the cab-off and not missing anything.You have to think in reverse of pulling and engine. I do have to say, I have done the rad 3 times (6.4 coolant rad leaks) and have only stayed dry once.
Oh I have to use my 40 ton excavator to lift with; I have nothing else strong enough. That real make me nervous, it is not a very delicate machine.
Some how I'm losing coolent but I'm left with a vacuum. When I release the cap I get air bubbles from the small return line to the degas tank. It holds a vacuum for a day or two. I have replaced the cap. There is no puddling anywhere under the truck. It is like the equivlient to losing a beer can of coolant every couple of days. No white smoke nothing on the oil cap or dipstick its deleted I can't find coolant any where. Further more Ford coolant is almost clear I have replaced all the orings on the upper and lower radiator hoses still has the same symptoms 🤔🙄 its driving me crazy. PS temp is betwen 86 and 96. If im in bumper to bumper stop and go trafic it like 185/186 if I'm moving its 195/196 I thought it might be an air lock but I can't seem to get it to make a difference. 🤬
A back road Macgyver ,A great big thanks .What a great video..Thanks...Thanks...Thanks.
"I'm gonna vacuum this out so I don't get coronavirus from this truck..." Bahahahahhahaha I'm dead. Great video!
About half way through this video , you earned you're way to more money than you charged ! But you have good info about other stuff !!!
Great job and video man 👍💪 I’m putting a new cab on my 04 f450 6.0 dump
Great job
I’m getting ready to pull mine
Thanks buddy good luck!
How the F do you remember what to reconnect???? Much respect after watching this
It becomes a systemic thing when you work on these trucks kind of regularly.... You think in terms of different systems and categories and those smaller groups help to break down the whole job so it's not so overwhelming... Same deal with troubleshooting, systems and subsystems work as categorization and then the smaller groups avoid the clutter.... People who hear about this way to work on these criticize it, but in reality a guy that is versed in cab pulls can do many jobs on these trucks faster than the other brands that don't encourage cab pulls for general repairs.... The super duty, has continued to improve the engineering with cab pulls intended as part of repair.,.. right or wrong it was how it was designed to be repaired
@@UpstateWoodchuck I see both sides of the deal. N one hand it’s a chore to do extra work, but on the other hand, there isn’t a lot to it per say, and could from the looks of it l do an out frame in the same time as an in frame.
Take pictures lots of pictures and maybe a few short videos with some narrative. Good luck. It really isn't that hard. The hard part is setting up and preparin. So just get everything you want done and ordered so it's up. Off and on ready to go no weighting for parts etc.. Then it's crack that first nut or bolt.
Dude!, you F****** literally save my ass! I Google it (lift cab off the frame), and your video came up first!!👍 Thank God! You talk about every single little thing, about lifting the cab off the chassis!!!👍👍✌️🍺
Very good very detailed video I appreciate your humble attitude
Thank you
You're welcome
how much does the cab weigh. who are you picking points in the front. did you damage anything going through the windows.
now I see why they charge me so much to do the head gasket job
plus they always break something charge me more The two garages I used both of them I feel screwed me over. thank Your video I will try it myself next time
I watched this video on the first 6.4 cab I pulled and then used it again on the second just now! Super informative video. Are you in Warman SK?
Experience. Trabajo. Amigo. Nice video
Nice video sir,I’m Learned more your video great job sir!!!!
I have a 2008 f250 power stroke 6.4. I recently had oil coming out of the coolant tank and it overheated but it was random and happened shortly after i had just fired it up. I’d love to chat and see if you think it’s a head gasket for sure or possibly oil cooler or egr cooler. Thanks for your time and i appreciate your videos they are very helpful
Great work👌🏻🙂
Fantastic video, have to do a hpfp harness and this took the guess work out if it. And I got covered with coolant.😅
😂
If you dont have a/c machine you can use a bucket full of water and put the hose inside so the freeon stays in the water
Thanks for the tips !!!👍👍
Im from California and I need the same work on my f250 ,how much is about , just spenses pls
I wouldn't suggest using an impact on the cab bolts because the impact can very well cause the nuts to break off
They could, but after pulling about 30 cabs I’ve found it best to just impact them out. I’ve never had one break, but I have had lots seize up. I find if you just zip them out with an impact it lowers the risk of having one seize up.
video should be titled "Overcoming Ford's engineers"
thanks for the video I watched a guy pull the engine without removing the cab I will remove the cab. stupid engineering. but thank you for saving me some gray hair trying to get my engine out washout pulling the cab first. should have watched your video first.. thank you
Awesome video man!
Awesome video. Thank you
High pressure turbo went out and bedplate leak 🙃 waiting for my brother to get his pull barn built so we can attempt a fix, unless I decide to just pay the dealer lol
Nice job bro!
Great job brother u the man
Excellent job dude....
Very clear video thank you like it very much
Great video
Do you have a video on how to start from finished to get to the valve covers on a 08 f350 6.4 diesel.
Great video have a question maybe you can answer or some of your subscribers can need to replace oil pan on my 2009 F350 super duty is there away to do that with out jacking engine up like all the videos i see out there
What did you put inside the roof of the cab to relieve stress
Great video thanks man
This is a good time to delete that EGR get the kit and what ever tuner you want. I went with the Minni Max but i hear that they were taken of the market. You dont need a race tune just somthing that will keep it close to stock. Unless your are stripping this engine down to build a race engine. Do not use the stock engine to race. You will do catastrophic damage to the internal parts. If your just doing a Cat, DPf,and EGR Delete. To increase longevity and MPG.this engine along with good maintanence should last a long time. Depending on Milage you may want to look at rockers and injecters now. I mean the cab is up. It is a bit of extra cost but an ounce of pervention. As they say. Nows the time. Also there is a sencer under the right side valve cover that can be problemmatic maybe just replace it. As well take the EGR coolers off and the down pipe right back to the passenger side up pipe. PS if your going to keep this truck nows the time to spend a. Little $ get the Bullitproof oil cooler with external water and oil filters. In my opinion it is a good investment and nows the time.
Would you buy a f450 2010? As long as you do a egr and dpf delete?
Good video good detail
Good knowledge boss
Freaking rockstar hardcore foo
great videos
8:20 found that if you spray it down with penetrating fluid and gently pull back and forth it releases so much easier!
Great video!
Extreme Work!!!
Are you filming this with a head mounted camera? If so, what camera? Thanks!
Excellent video....thnx bro
Great video! Go in depth of the head gasket please!
Working on the head removal video as we speak!
I have a 08' 350 crew short bed dually with the v10.. I need to get the passenger side valve cover off and the book says to unblolt the engine mounts on the passenger side and loosen the engine mounts on the driver side, have to disconnect exhaust at the cats... The v10 is tighter than the 5.4 but more room than that 6.4 for sure.. Seems like, if I unbolted the cab on the passenger side and jacked up a couple inches and pulled it over about an inch.. I wouldn't really need to disconnect anything and would get enough to squeeze that valve cover off?? Do you have thoughts on that.. Do you think it would damage anything? Most everting connecting has a couple inches or more of slack or flex.. Thanks for sharing..