6.4l Powerstroke Won't Build Boost and Blows Excessive Smoke || Let's dig into it
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
- Today a customer has broughten in a truck that he recently purchased. he says it won't build boost and blows a lot of black smoke. Let's dive into it!
it’s the egr down pipe they always crack after you do a egr cooler removal, if it gets bad enough it will burn the down it cracks at the lower mounting bracket.
Yup that's what I've found so far. I don't understand why people don't just block off at the up pipe or just get different up pipes. Not worth catching the truck on fire
@@ParkerMotorWorks Delete up-pipes are hard to get as they’re considered race parts. Easy to get a Chinese block off plate kit but otherwise people don’t want to sell delete parts in the USA due to the EPA shutting down shops and stores.
Times are definitely changing
Just flip the horizontal cooler 180 degrees and cut the back elbow off. It'll keep the up pipe from vibrating.
@bthorn5035 sure or just instal the delete kit properly and remove that pipe and block off at origin up by the turbo
It was half right, you want alot of boost and alot of black smoke at the same time! My crew cab long bed was running 12.20s at about 60lbs boost for a few years before she blew up, which 6.4s inevitably do. 12v Cummins or twin turbo LS3 goin in soon. Can't make up my mind lol.
The fucking gauge doesn't even read 60 lbs boost on the original gauge. No wonder it blew up. You stupid fuckers ruin your engines and then blame Ford. No pickup engine on the market is designed for that kind of boost. You know those pickups run beautifully if you take care of them and don't tune them and ruin them.
Parker mobile mechanic myself. Love your videos man. I do have a question related to the 6.4 what bolt comes in from up pipes in the middle? I had the same issue and was missing a bolt when i looked
I want to say it was a shorter bolt but I honestly don't remember now
Disconnect exhaust down pipe drive check for boost if boost present take mid pipe and catalytic of truck and put it in a bad of purple power for a week you'll need like 20 gallons to clean like new rinse with water and dry interior with heat gun or just let sit until dry put back in truck replace sensor in between pipe and catalytic 130 cost drive enjoy power. I know by experience this works good luck
Truck had a cracked up pipe and is straight piped
Do any with down pipe with ebp sensor block it off behind turbo tap blockoff to size of ebp sensor bung and relocate it top of engine
Away with
Yes tapping the blackout plate and moving the plate to the tip of the up pipe is the best place to do it. Anything to get rod of that crossover egr tube. I've also seen shops tap the manifold and run the ebp there but I like tapping the plate more
My 6.4 2010 is leaking oil somewhere on back upper side of the motor and a lot of white smoke and oil coming out if tail pipe. Loss of power and almost no psi reading from the turbo. Any ideas?
Did you figure it out?
@mastermechanicfelipe4641 it was a cracked drivers side up pipe
@@ParkerMotorWorks so where did the oil come from?
@@ParkerMotorWorks I appreciate you answering
I'm not sure about the guy in the original comment but I'd guess turbo seals were letting oil by
2010 f250 6.4.
After turbos were installed the oil light indicator on the dashboard came on ,.. Oil pressure and temperature sensors were replaced,. Then the truck ran good for a couple of miles. Then the same problem happened again.. this time turbos went bad , then I went to get the sensors again then I went ahead and installed a set of Rebuilt turbos , this time the truck ran good for a little longer I mean for like 15 minutes or so ,then the same light came back on again and white smoke through exhaust??🤔🤔🤔🤔🤷🏾♂️🤷🏾♂️🤷🏾♂️🤷🏾♂️🤷🏾♂️
That sounds like an expensive issue you've got. I'm not sure what would be causing your turbos to keep going bad. I'd find it hard to believe that the pressure sensor would fail back to back. What made you think the new set of turbos went bad? Was the wheel wobbling around or was it spitting oil?
@@ParkerMotorWorks boths wobbling and spitting oil 🤣🤣. But this happened, because the turbos that were installed before the ones I just replaced were used turbos. And the ones I just installed are rebuilt and came with a 6 month warranty... The ones I removed on February 24/23 were spitting oil to the downpipe and the wheel close to downpipe was wobbling
Are both turbos failing or just the regular one
@@ParkerMotorWorks no no .. turbos are working great ...
My problema is about the oil light indicator that came on like 15 minutes after driving my truck ..
@@ParkerMotorWorks The turbos on my truck were replaced with used turbos that only lasted a few days. but apart from having the problem with my turbos the low oil indicator came on days before the used turbos were completely ruined I went to the dealership to buy new oil pressure and temperature sensors, and after I did that my truck worked very well Ok, but I was only able to drive it for a few mines and I got the same low oil indicator problem again. 02/24/2023 I installed a set of rebuilt turbos and also the same oil pressure and temperature sensors. I also changed map sensors and the intake air temperature sensor.. What I don't understand why the low oil indicator light keeps coming on? Do you think the oil cooler has something to do with all this?
Can a leaking hot side pipe cause a 6.4 powerstroke to have excessive smoke out of the exhaust? It is egr and dpf deleted. I've replaced all the sensors. But I recently found a leak in my pipe running from the turbo to the intercooler/cold air charger. I found it when i took the cac/intercooler out to clean it. It was actually really clean it only had about a tablespoon of oil in it not much at all. I also relocated the ebp sensor like you did, my egr pipe was cracked too.
Having your uppipes cracked could cause excessive smoke but I'm not sure about the hit side pipe. It would probably depend on how much boost you were still making. Having less air would cause smoke just by messing with the air fuel ratio
hey man . I'm back with questions..
so I bought a new turbo actuator and installed it on my truck, right , but it won't build any boost, 🤷🏿♂️
so I brought a guy to do a diagnosis, so he came and did whatever he did , then we took it for a drive .. guess the truck runs good for a couple of miles with no much boost but at least I can see the gauge move up to 1/4 ... on the turbo gauge.. ?. on the dashboard.
to make sense ..
he Said the scanner and the computer weren't communicating each other . .due to an electrical issue, on the engine harness..
he advised me to replace the engine wiring harness since a few sensors connectors were were replaced and fuse together with soldering,..
so should I replace engine wiring harness, or should I do the computer.. .?
That one's tough. A new engine wiring harness is always good especially when anything besides factory happens to them. I don't see much sense in tacking down the correct computer when the harness has been tampered with. Assuming his diag and computer work was correct
Hey I have a 6.4 2009 f550, I’m getting a p132b code. Builds zero boost and has a check engine light which leaves the truck in limo mode. No weird smoke or a norm Al sounds coming from the engine. Is it possible for it to be a boost leak? Or is it bad turbos?
That code is for the turbo actuator. If yours is stock there is an updated part from borg Warner for a better actuator. When you turn the key to on do you hear or can you see the turbo actuator cycle? If not I would start there
@@ParkerMotorWorks thanks for the info, how do I know the turbo is cycling? Also I’m getting a p2263 code
On the right side of the turbo chargers there's a box with a small arm that goes to the turbo. When you turn the key on it'll cycle the variable geometry veins in the turbo
But as for the p2263 it may be there because of the other code or its bad news. Either way its a fuel or an air problem but if you have a faulty turbo actuator it would be throwing off your air fuel balance which would trigger the p2263
Replace the exhaust pressure sensor it controls the actuator
I have same truck..just brought mine in to the Ford dealership for an oil change..left with no turbo boost and screeching noise as the rpms spool up..needless to say I cant drive the truck it's that loud... does that sound like they knocked a pipe loose or something? When I called they said they forgot to tell me it was making that noise when they first pulled the truck back. I'm pretty upset.
High pitched screech could be a broken manifold bolt, cracked up pipe or broken up pipe bolt. However generally if it's a broken manifold bolt you'll still make boost. I'd check your up pipes. Look for black soot on your firewall and when it's cold you can turn the truck on and feel around and see if you can feel where it's leaking. Be careful about driving it because in some cases you can catch your truck on fire with the hot exhaust gases
@@ParkerMotorWorks I just climbed under and around it..I think it is the a/c compressor clutch not spinning. This is the deal I brought it in to have an oil change told them to check the a/c as it wasnt as cold as I like it..and while they are down there I might have a small oil pan gasket leak. They called me told me my entire a/c system needed to be replaced $3700..no thanks how about the oil pan gasket? They said no leaks we can see but we do see an exhaust leak and a coolant leak...an hour later they said well we do see the oil pan gasket leak $2700..I said just do the oil change please.. I picked it up the next day my wife driving behind me a block from the dealership she called and said truck making strange noise..i called dealership and they said " oh i forgot to tell you it was making that noise when you dropped it off. It absolutely was not making any noise it was running great. This morning I was climbing around under it listening and noticed the check engine lite. I'm going to get a code reader now.
Just super shady..
Thanks for your prompt response
Download forscan if you don't have access to another scanner or if you don't want to shell out big money for a good scanner. Forscan is all I use and it'll give you all the info you need. Personally I wouldn't do the oil pan unless you had to pull the motor. The only way to truly seal the pan is to flip the motor over. I don't remember if the 6.4s use a gasket or if it's just rtv. Where's the coolant leak coming from? The front covers are sketchy because a lot of them corrode over time especially with bad coolant
The vacuum pump just means he has a leak in the 4x4 vacuum system
bro is me again. I have another question... so i bought the turbo actuator kit for my truck. it comes with the low-pressure actuator the one where the cooling hoses go . .but I can get the parts unless I send the cores back first.. and I wanted to ask you if I can remove the low-pressure turbo actuator the ones where the two hoses go .. and bypass them hoses connect them to each other. just to get that par out .. now the question is .. I only need to drive the like 300' feet . but my question is .. will it run without a problem
. cuz my truck is parked like 300' feet away from where I'm gonna remove the part because I can't do it on the street.?
Are you able to move the truck first? I'm not sure about the negative impacts honestly but the turbo actuator doesn't need to work for the truck to move so I'd say It could be okay
@@ParkerMotorWorks I not able to move it because I'd decided to have it parked and not spend more $$$ on it until now that I went ahead and purchased the new turbo actuator.. but I did remove the actuator where my truck's parked 🥶🥶.. and now I'm just gonna send the cores and wait and see if that solves one of my longtime problems 😌🥶😌
I hope it fixes it for you these trucks are nice running but kinda worthless when they aren't
@@ParkerMotorWorks exactly..
So I just had a 2010 f350 come into my shop today. No codes. Data looks normal to me. Doing a delete for him. It’s a “race truck”. Truck all the sudden yesterday was blowing black smoke and I mean blowing like I can smoke the whole block out at half throttle bad…no boost. On the high way lay into it and it’ll build maybe 25psi by around 3500rpm.
Can’t find any leaks whatsoever. I’m a 6.0 guy. Not a 6.4. Just trying to help a friend out. Got any input? Using a Bosch ads 325 scanner/live streamer.
25psi is really low for a 6.4. I felt like barely touching the throttle it would build 35 or so just cruising. Do you know what version turbo actuator it has. There's an updated version that fixed some issues with the vgt. What tunes did you use for the delete and did you also delete the egr? Check the egt probe and connector, check the map sensor, air filter or any other restriction, also check the uppipes and manifolds. This white truck had a cracked uppipe and I could barely tell. I thought it had a blown manifold gasket when the uppipe was almost completely broken and it wouldn't smoke or make much sound for me to see it
@@ParkerMotorWorks I haven’t done the delete yet. Picked the truck up today and that’s when he told me of this new issue it has. It was barely driveable. I know it’s got a really old tuner on it. A mini something. Can’t remember off the top of my head.
Tune is for a deleted set up and it’s a 300hp tune. However it still does the same thing on a stock tune.
I unplugged the ebp sensor and it helped get the truck moving a bit better. But still takes well over a mile maybe 1.5 miles to hit 70.
Honestly I've never worked on a 6.4 that still had the emissions on. How many miles are on it? Unplig the egr valve and see if the tune is messing with the positioning. Also pull the egr off and see if the intake manifold is clogged up with soot. I could be way off base but sounds to me there's some sort of restriction or possibly his vgt isn't operating as it should. That's what I would check before digging into it
@@ParkerMotorWorks I’ll go out and unplug the egr real fast just to see if it changes anything at all. I can feel the truck choke really badly and it has 0 power. Barely enough to get out of the way of a Prius lol.
@@ParkerMotorWorks unplugged egr. Didn’t make any difference at all.
Downpipe boot?
Egr
What would cause my 2008 F-250 not to regen? I installed a new dpf about 1000 miles ago and I’m getting a dpf filter below threshold. It ran fine until recently.
Thanks in advance,
I honestly have no idea. I've never worked on one that has the emissions on. But I would get a scan tool and see if I could force a regen
A 6.4 not going into regen should be an issue that you want to have lol
Definitely not an issue if the truck ran good lol
Delete the dpf if you can
Did the clicking continue when you shut it off and like slow down as the idle ended?
No the clocking stopped with the motor
@@ParkerMotorWorks darn. Mine is doing the same clicking but you can hear it after I shut off the truck and it’s the same loss of boost. Wonder if the exhaust gasket coming off the low pressure turbo is bad because I get the exhaust leak in the cabin.
Is your egr deleted? I would check your crossover pipe that feeds the egr cooler
@@ParkerMotorWorks yeah it’s deleted.
I would check your crossover pipe. A lot of people don't delete properly. The blockoff plate is supposed to bolt behind the turbo after the crossover is removed. theres a bracket on the head and then there's a bracket welded to the drivers side uppipe that will crack
Exhaust pressure sensor100%
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