@0:36 there it is.. I thought for a second, or 33 seconds, we weren't getting a "todaaay" today 🙃 Nice vid as always - well researched, demonstrated, and presented 😊
For general purposes, the ABS-like is best, because delicate parts won't easily break. I've had ultrasonic and conventional wash stations over the years, and the conventional washes work better. Recommend a dual-wash cycle (dirty and clean) and denatured alcohol, which is cheaper than IPA and smells much better but still works well. It's brilliant that they had a dry cycle before curing as this really matters. I usually just let the parts air dry after the clean rinse. Don't put too much stock in "14K" which isn't.
I like the baggie trick for a sonic cleaner. I use tupperware style containers with solvents for small parts in my sonic cleaner as it is 100 gallon! We print items that sometimes need to take high heat. But cannot be brittle! Tough seems like a better choice.
I never thought of just using a plastic bag with IPA in an ultrasonic cleaner...I'll probably stick to just using the wash/cure station I already have but it's nice to have options.
Interesting video. FYI tap water vs tape water. Please check for this. It was funny. For a moment I wondered where you could buy water tape. I am familiar with masking tape, blue painters tape and insolation tape. Never heard of water tape before. The new music is still catching me off guard, as I have been watching your videos for a long time now. Great video. If touch resin is similar to nylon, you could use it to print bearings and other nylon parts. Much easier than in an FDM/FFF machine.
I'd be curious of the results mixing the high temperature resin with the tough resin. I'd expect less flex and only slightly lower temperature resistance.
I've got a bottle of the ABS like water washable I've been dieing to try. I had been using a blend of normal ABS like an water washable (transitioning from the brittle water washable) and it's been really nice.
Awesome review , quick question, usually in resin slicers I often see people always angling their pieces, was there a reason the pieces weren't Angeled or was this just how the auto orient layed out the pieces. Love the show thank you
You only have to angle them if there are shelf or cupping layers really. These all look like they have angles at max to 45 degrees, so can be printed standing up.
Do you know any update on whether flashforge are going to release a larger version of the adventurer 5m? I asked sone time ago and they said yes q4 this year.
So, what settings use for sunlu 14k? I have photon mono m5s pro and always i have the same problem: practically all statues staying on the fep. The last settings was like this: normal layer 0.7 mm, exposure time 2.80 s, time off 0.8, bottom exposure 95, bottom layer 7, lifting z 10, lifting speed 14, return speed 14. Even with these settings printing gonna failed
That was the tough resin. The tiny, thin rails of the tower didn't print too well with this flexible resin. Please take a look at 8:20; it already looked like that before heating. I pointed to that part with a green arrow.
The heat resistance test is not really adequate. The same model that you used for the fracture test should be placed in an oven, so that you place a weight (screw nut) on it. By measuring the temperature with a meat thermometer, you gradually raise the temperature of the oven. When the model softens, the screw nut lowers, then the temperature at which it softens can be read.
Please resend the email and let me know the subject. We receive hundreds of emails every week, and we may not read every single one, especially from senders not in our existing contact list.
@@AuroraTech The Title is: Partnership Opportunity: Support Our Robotics Team with a Donation and will come from an email adress with the thomas in it.
I've got the PERFECT Cosplay for Aurora, she could 3d print the costume too. The Adjutant from Star Craft: ruclips.net/video/YD2aq2MbboE/видео.htmlfeature=shared She's the only one that could pull that announcer off. (I mean it in the best way possible) She could create her own taglines: You are out of Filament. You don't have Sufficient Enough Resources To Buy This Printer. Your Printer Has Died. Might even become a Meme, forget Prusa Joe Coming Up to Greet you before you print, in warps in Aurora the Adjutant on the newly installed Firmware Screen to guide you to victory. Adjust your Z-Axis offset 0.05 mm and set your Extruder Heat 5 Deg C higher. Please wait while I recalibrate and debug the entire OS.
Even a consistent product can have a bad batch. I struggle getting sunlu PLA here in South Africa. I love the stuff. The closest I have so far is the Creality brand filament. More flexible than normal PLA.
@0:36 there it is.. I thought for a second, or 33 seconds, we weren't getting a "todaaay" today 🙃 Nice vid as always - well researched, demonstrated, and presented 😊
For general purposes, the ABS-like is best, because delicate parts won't easily break. I've had ultrasonic and conventional wash stations over the years, and the conventional washes work better. Recommend a dual-wash cycle (dirty and clean) and denatured alcohol, which is cheaper than IPA and smells much better but still works well. It's brilliant that they had a dry cycle before curing as this really matters. I usually just let the parts air dry after the clean rinse. Don't put too much stock in "14K" which isn't.
I have no idea who buys IPA anymore it gives headaches and is expensive the ethanol is cheaper(in the EU)
I like the baggie trick for a sonic cleaner. I use tupperware style containers with solvents for small parts in my sonic cleaner as it is 100 gallon! We print items that sometimes need to take high heat. But cannot be brittle! Tough seems like a better choice.
Thanks for sharing these results. 👍
I never thought of just using a plastic bag with IPA in an ultrasonic cleaner...I'll probably stick to just using the wash/cure station I already have but it's nice to have options.
Fantastic review ☺️
I just bought some Sunlu 14k Red Wax and its very sensitive to low/normal bottom exposure! I would advice to go bottom layer 5 or 6 and exp 40-45s
I really like sunlu white and grey for my masks
Interesting video.
FYI tap water vs tape water. Please check for this. It was funny. For a moment I wondered where you could buy water tape. I am familiar with masking tape, blue painters tape and insolation tape. Never heard of water tape before.
The new music is still catching me off guard, as I have been watching your videos for a long time now.
Great video.
If touch resin is similar to nylon, you could use it to print bearings and other nylon parts.
Much easier than in an FDM/FFF machine.
Thanks for pointing that out. I just fixed the typo of 'tap water,' but it may take a while for RUclips to update the video.
@@AuroraTech and autocorrect making typos for myself also.
I'd be curious of the results mixing the high temperature resin with the tough resin. I'd expect less flex and only slightly lower temperature resistance.
I've got a bottle of the ABS like water washable I've been dieing to try. I had been using a blend of normal ABS like an water washable (transitioning from the brittle water washable) and it's been really nice.
Thanks for this, while I wish you had included their flexible resin, this is highly useful. I appreciate how flexible the tough resin is, however.
Awesome review , quick question, usually in resin slicers I often see people always angling their pieces, was there a reason the pieces weren't Angeled or was this just how the auto orient layed out the pieces. Love the show thank you
You only have to angle them if there are shelf or cupping layers really. These all look like they have angles at max to 45 degrees, so can be printed standing up.
Do you know any update on whether flashforge are going to release a larger version of the adventurer 5m?
I asked sone time ago and they said yes q4 this year.
So, what settings use for sunlu 14k? I have photon mono m5s pro and always i have the same problem: practically all statues staying on the fep. The last settings was like this: normal layer 0.7 mm, exposure time 2.80 s, time off 0.8, bottom exposure 95, bottom layer 7, lifting z 10, lifting speed 14, return speed 14. Even with these settings printing gonna failed
How was the smell? Is it “manageable” or is it really stinky?
At 10:24, it looks like there is also some cracking on the Eiffel Tower second from the right. Although not as much as the standard resin.
That was the tough resin. The tiny, thin rails of the tower didn't print too well with this flexible resin. Please take a look at 8:20; it already looked like that before heating. I pointed to that part with a green arrow.
Make a short to compare the abs like pls
👍🏻👍🏻
YAMETE!
The heat resistance test is not really adequate.
The same model that you used for the fracture test should be placed in an oven, so that you place a weight (screw nut) on it. By measuring the temperature with a meat thermometer, you gradually raise the temperature of the oven.
When the model softens, the screw nut lowers, then the temperature at which it softens can be read.
Sunlu is so bad
It left skidmarks on my underwear 💩 😢
@Aurora Tech I sent you an email about my robotics team and a request it is worth reading🤪
No. Just no.
Please resend the email and let me know the subject. We receive hundreds of emails every week, and we may not read every single one, especially from senders not in our existing contact list.
@@AuroraTech The Title is: Partnership Opportunity: Support Our Robotics Team with a Donation and will come from an email adress with the thomas in it.
I've got the PERFECT Cosplay for Aurora, she could 3d print the costume too. The Adjutant from Star Craft: ruclips.net/video/YD2aq2MbboE/видео.htmlfeature=shared She's the only one that could pull that announcer off. (I mean it in the best way possible) She could create her own taglines: You are out of Filament. You don't have Sufficient Enough Resources To Buy This Printer. Your Printer Has Died. Might even become a Meme, forget Prusa Joe Coming Up to Greet you before you print, in warps in Aurora the Adjutant on the newly installed Firmware Screen to guide you to victory. Adjust your Z-Axis offset 0.05 mm and set your Extruder Heat 5 Deg C higher. Please wait while I recalibrate and debug the entire OS.
im boycotting sunlu after they ghosted me when I had a problem with their absolute garbage PLA. great video though love this channel
I’ve printed a lot using their PLA with many different printers, and it worked just fine. What kind of issues did you experience?
They have good pla, maybe it was a skill issue?
Even a consistent product can have a bad batch.
I struggle getting sunlu PLA here in South Africa.
I love the stuff.
The closest I have so far is the Creality brand filament. More flexible than normal PLA.
Sunlu PLA + is one of the best filaments i have tried buddy! Ask my customers and they will tell you
I bought their pla+ and the recycled filament (10kg) and all printed very good result