I love these videos, one of the best for actually figuring out what resins are worth looking into. Id be very interested to see the differences in the Anycubic line up. specifically the DLP craftsman as its supposedly super high detail.
One of the best and most useful test videos I’ve seen. Subscribed. However… you may want to reconsider the smell test 😮, all resins give of VOC’s and so you’re taking a long term risk sticking your nose over the end of so many bottles to sniff them 😅
I tested a few clear resins the way to get them back clear again after curing is to brush on a layer of the clear resin and cure it for 10 seconds!. OK It does add a thin layer of resin over the print but it doesn't seem to cover any details it'll not be wet with oil's either it's worth a try
@@NoizieWorks By the way, the Jamg He Art & Engineering prints very good, but VERY slow (wait before cure and lift speeds) , and the settings they give are absurd - it took me 1.5 litres of testing to get it right. I was seeing those delaminations of lower layers like you did until I found the right settings, "raising the bottom exposure time" has nothing to do with it, as you will see: Bottom layer exposure 7.6 seconds, normal exposure 2.8 seconds, bottom lift/retract speeds 20 mm/min, normal lift/retract speeds 60mm/min, bottom wait before cure 40 seconds, bottom wait after cure 4 seconds, normal wait before cure 3 seconds, normal wait after cure 2 seconds, normal wait after lift 0.5 seconds, bottom lift height 6mm, normal lift height 4mm, bottom layers 10, transition layers 20, layer height 0.05mm. This worked perfectly, no failures, good adhesion, easy to remove, supports work great and come off easily. Settings were using Voxeldance Tango slicer, printer was 10.3" 8K Nova3D Whale3 SE using ACF.
Thanks for sharing! I just did what they told me but yes i think if you use the bottom layers to get more exposure in the raft and then transition into the supports most problems are fixed. Once in the supports i could print with the normal speed settings i used back then which was around 40mm/ stage 1 and 200 stage 2. Now with acf i use 150 stage 1 (nova3d had these settings)and i'm thinking of dumping the 2 stage completely as i only need 3mm of peel on the acf and the 2 stage just makes it slower imo. What do you think? Btw they have a new art/engi that i can test, apperently it should hold up to sun better by like 2x 🤷♂️
@@NoizieWorks My experience, especially with ACF, is that TSMC is worse than useless, nothing is gained and it may even ruin prints unless it's slower than not using it - the printers don't have good enough motor control to make that viable, and also the deceleration and acceleration during TSMC either messes with precision or just slows things WAY down or both. I used Jamg He's recommendation and did 30 seconds bottom exposure, it did NOT fix delamination and distortion, all that it caused is me to slightly damage a build plate for the first time ever - the resin tore off a bit of the anodization when removing the print because the resin literally "welded" to the anodization. As you see, I use 7.6 seconds for bottom layers exposure, and it's a little over-adhered for my experience and preference, but it's no problem getting the print off easily and cleanly. My regular exposure setting for this resin is the ideal for supports holding the print and coming off easily afterwards. I am curious to try their (Nova 3D's) "Engineer" resin, do you mean theirs or Jamg He has a new version of Art & Engineering? By the way, the Jamg He A&E definitely has great detail and VERY flat (no warp at all that I can see)...
NOT FIRST!
I love these videos, one of the best for actually figuring out what resins are worth looking into.
Id be very interested to see the differences in the Anycubic line up. specifically the DLP craftsman as its supposedly super high detail.
Thanks dude! Me to 🙂 i'm planning to test them all so stay tuned 🥼🤓
One of the best and most useful test videos I’ve seen. Subscribed. However… you may want to reconsider the smell test 😮, all resins give of VOC’s and so you’re taking a long term risk sticking your nose over the end of so many bottles to sniff them 😅
I stopped doing it 😉
I tested a few clear resins the way to get them back clear again after curing is to brush on a layer of the clear resin and cure it for 10 seconds!. OK It does add a thin layer of resin over the print but it doesn't seem to cover any details it'll not be wet with oil's either it's worth a try
you should try polishing the super clear stuff
polishing the resin itself or the clearcoat?
@@NoizieWorks The resin itself, it looks hard like the epoxy tables people make, you would just have to go slow and keep it cool id imagine
FIRST! LOL
But seriously, great video as usual.
🤟🤟
@@NoizieWorks By the way, the Jamg He Art & Engineering prints very good, but VERY slow (wait before cure and lift speeds) , and the settings they give are absurd - it took me 1.5 litres of testing to get it right.
I was seeing those delaminations of lower layers like you did until I found the right settings, "raising the bottom exposure time" has nothing to do with it, as you will see:
Bottom layer exposure 7.6 seconds, normal exposure 2.8 seconds, bottom lift/retract speeds 20 mm/min, normal lift/retract speeds 60mm/min, bottom wait before cure 40 seconds, bottom wait after cure 4 seconds, normal wait before cure 3 seconds, normal wait after cure 2 seconds, normal wait after lift 0.5 seconds, bottom lift height 6mm, normal lift height 4mm, bottom layers 10, transition layers 20, layer height 0.05mm.
This worked perfectly, no failures, good adhesion, easy to remove, supports work great and come off easily.
Settings were using Voxeldance Tango slicer, printer was 10.3" 8K Nova3D Whale3 SE using ACF.
Thanks for sharing! I just did what they told me but yes i think if you use the bottom layers to get more exposure in the raft and then transition into the supports most problems are fixed. Once in the supports i could print with the normal speed settings i used back then which was around 40mm/ stage 1 and 200 stage 2.
Now with acf i use 150 stage 1 (nova3d had these settings)and i'm thinking of dumping the 2 stage completely as i only need 3mm of peel on the acf and the 2 stage just makes it slower imo. What do you think? Btw they have a new art/engi that i can test, apperently it should hold up to sun better by like 2x 🤷♂️
@@NoizieWorks My experience, especially with ACF, is that TSMC is worse than useless, nothing is gained and it may even ruin prints unless it's slower than not using it - the printers don't have good enough motor control to make that viable, and also the deceleration and acceleration during TSMC either messes with precision or just slows things WAY down or both.
I used Jamg He's recommendation and did 30 seconds bottom exposure, it did NOT fix delamination and distortion, all that it caused is me to slightly damage a build plate for the first time ever - the resin tore off a bit of the anodization when removing the print because the resin literally "welded" to the anodization. As you see, I use 7.6 seconds for bottom layers exposure, and it's a little over-adhered for my experience and preference, but it's no problem getting the print off easily and cleanly. My regular exposure setting for this resin is the ideal for supports holding the print and coming off easily afterwards.
I am curious to try their (Nova 3D's) "Engineer" resin, do you mean theirs or Jamg He has a new version of Art & Engineering? By the way, the Jamg He A&E definitely has great detail and VERY flat (no warp at all that I can see)...
I’m looking for a resin or filament that is abrasion resistant and water resistant
Nylon filaments are good for abrasion but they do absorb water.