Nice job building the truck ! Sure is a good looking ford , back in early 90’s I worked at a fleet in Cleveland Ohio that had probably 20 L series fords , all cummins power . Not a bad truck to wok on aside from the dog house . Nice to see you revive this one , sure don’t see many around anymore .
I appreciate the kind words. They are definitely getting rare. I still see a fair amount, but the ones that are out there are mostly rusted and ragged out, lots of hard-working dump trucks, but not many clean ones.
Working on my pt pump as well. Somehow getting fuel in my air system 😬 if ya find a set of jakes, find two because I’ve been looking for some without any luck!
That’s good to see your psi range with a number 7. I have a 5 in mine and I have to be careful because it is easy to go beyond 200. I have 10% over injectors in mine and one of the best things I did was add 3 governor shims to the spring. Really helps to stay in the power when I’m around 60k gross weight. So, one thing I would like to know is if a crank stiffener from a m11 will fit in the l10. Susposlly they have crank fretting issues over 370hp. I might know of a set of jakes as well. I’ll reach out and see. Great video as always.
I was actually going to ask you what button you’re running, you beat me to it. I definitely want to add the governor shims- I don’t need the extra revolutions all the time but would be nice when needed. Are you running the original spring still? I just started reading about some of the M11 additions that are out there specifically the crank stiffener. Certainly interested what you might find on the jakes too, thank you!
@@robstruckshop80 i do still have the original governor spring. Reason why I went with the shims is I didn’t know with spring I had in my truck. My injectors I used a company called premco diesel out of lampassas Texas. They were very good and would highly recommend them. I was really wanting to bump up to the m11 internals when did my inframe, but couldn’t find information on if it would work and I had to get my truck back to work as fast as I could.
Any Ideas about what causes intermittent engine ping/rattle/knock sounds at light to med throttle on these L10's? It sounds a lot like an over-advanced ignition ping/knock on a gas engine. It's really loud until I get on the throttle, then it smooths out and runs nice and quiet until the load drops off.
This video was really helpful in understanding this part of the l10. We got ours back from a rebuild recently and its idling at about 900 rpm. Whats the best way to lower the idle?
Glad it was helpful! The idle adjustment is inside the governor housing, the cone shaped 4-bolt flanged housing at the back of the pump. You have to remove the pipe plug at the end of the housing and get a screwdriver in there to turn the screw (out to decrease idle speed). Note that fuel will come out when you remove the plug.
@@robstruckshop80 we’ll that sucks man !!! Glad you got her home. Truck looked sweet on the road. I gave up on my l10 I bought all the bearings were shot and crank was scored so decided to just run the 5.9 for know.
Compound turbo if you have room to build it. What do you think or would it be too many upgrades to the engine in the truck (head studs and fire rings for the head)?
I think that might require too many internal upgrades…. Though it would be cool as hell! With fuel system mods and the right single turbo I should be able to safely touch 400+ which is all I want. At some point I’ll end up with more torque than the trans can handle so that’ll in turn push me to a 13 speed OD.
My guess is that a 1990 would be an STC engine and an idle surge sounds like it could be an STC issue. Basically Cummins used engine oil pressure to regulate injection timing. I’d look up your engine ESN and first determine exactly what L10 you have
Hey rob, i have same truck as your's.my question to you is ,if you were to change that motor to 855 big cam would it fit inside there without any engine mount mods?
I don’t know that the mounts themselves are the same part numbers- the front definitely isn’t- But in general, they mount in the same location on the rails. Ford put the transmissions in the same spot vs. the cab and just used different engines, mounts, hoods and doghouses to make it all work. 855’s were definitely a thing in short hoods like mine though.
I don’t think I made a specific video on the pyro. My exhaust manifold had two 1/4” NPT plugs in it and I was able to heat one up enough to get it out clean. The pyro then threaded right in with the supplied NPT adapter. Without those provisions, the options would be drilling and tapping the manifold or installing it after the turbo.
@@robstruckshop80 thanks for the reply I actually ordered the fitting today off amazon and have a gauge that should work, having some power issues with my truck thinking fuel or maybe stc valve
I used a center punch to divot the ball then lots of cutting fluid but I remember breaking a bit or 2 in the process and being pissed off. I’ve heard some people say that their tamperproof balls were lead so they drilled really easily, but mine was definitely a harder steel.
@@robstruckshop80 thanks for the information Rob and always had a liking for the Ford 9000 series Louisville line trucks keep up the fine work and take care.
I’m sure cats are decent motors, but I can’t deal with the attitudes of the die hard cat guys, so I’ll stick with my Cummins. Simple, reliable, and capable of big power.
Nice sound pt system i like noise of injections
cleanest l9000 I have ever seen. wow. makes me want one
Thank you. Really appreciate that.
Nice job building the truck ! Sure is a good looking ford , back in early 90’s I worked at a fleet in Cleveland Ohio that had probably 20 L series fords , all cummins power . Not a bad truck to wok on aside from the dog house . Nice to see you revive this one , sure don’t see many around anymore .
I appreciate the kind words. They are definitely getting rare. I still see a fair amount, but the ones that are out there are mostly rusted and ragged out, lots of hard-working dump trucks, but not many clean ones.
What you did to the linkage is what I need to do for my 1991 L7000. Thank You new subscription here
Thank you!
Old school sound Cummins
Working on my pt pump as well. Somehow getting fuel in my air system 😬 if ya find a set of jakes, find two because I’ve been looking for some without any luck!
I’m still keeping an eye out- I think in the end it’ll be cheaper to buy a whole blown engine or truck than to buy just the jakes!
That’s good to see your psi range with a number 7. I have a 5 in mine and I have to be careful because it is easy to go beyond 200. I have 10% over injectors in mine and one of the best things I did was add 3 governor shims to the spring. Really helps to stay in the power when I’m around 60k gross weight. So, one thing I would like to know is if a crank stiffener from a m11 will fit in the l10. Susposlly they have crank fretting issues over 370hp. I might know of a set of jakes as well. I’ll reach out and see. Great video as always.
I was actually going to ask you what button you’re running, you beat me to it. I definitely want to add the governor shims- I don’t need the extra revolutions all the time but would be nice when needed. Are you running the original spring still? I just started reading about some of the M11 additions that are out there specifically the crank stiffener. Certainly interested what you might find on the jakes too, thank you!
@@robstruckshop80 i do still have the original governor spring. Reason why I went with the shims is I didn’t know with spring I had in my truck. My injectors I used a company called premco diesel out of lampassas Texas. They were very good and would highly recommend them. I was really wanting to bump up to the m11 internals when did my inframe, but couldn’t find information on if it would work and I had to get my truck back to work as fast as I could.
Same thing I’m thinking regarding the spring, I don’t know the baseline so it’s easier to just add the shims and end up with the result I’m after.
Any Ideas about what causes intermittent engine ping/rattle/knock sounds at light to med throttle on these L10's? It sounds a lot like an over-advanced ignition ping/knock on a gas engine.
It's really loud until I get on the throttle, then it smooths out and runs nice and quiet until the load drops off.
👍🏻
This video was really helpful in understanding this part of the l10. We got ours back from a rebuild recently and its idling at about 900 rpm. Whats the best way to lower the idle?
Glad it was helpful!
The idle adjustment is inside the governor housing, the cone shaped 4-bolt flanged housing at the back of the pump. You have to remove the pipe plug at the end of the housing and get a screwdriver in there to turn the screw (out to decrease idle speed). Note that fuel will come out when you remove the plug.
Passed you on route 2 today in Sandusky rig looked great.
Thank you! That was just after we got back on the road after a breakdown in Lorain
@@robstruckshop80 o man that sucks !! What happened?
Cooling and starting issues… got her on the road thanks to a Good Samaritan and some good ol rigging- I’ll have a video out on it later today
@@robstruckshop80 we’ll that sucks man !!! Glad you got her home. Truck looked sweet on the road. I gave up on my l10 I bought all the bearings were shot and crank was scored so decided to just run the 5.9 for know.
Compound turbo if you have room to build it.
What do you think or would it be too many upgrades to the engine in the truck (head studs and fire rings for the head)?
I think that might require too many internal upgrades…. Though it would be cool as hell! With fuel system mods and the right single turbo I should be able to safely touch 400+ which is all I want. At some point I’ll end up with more torque than the trans can handle so that’ll in turn push me to a 13 speed OD.
Just got a 1990 Volvo gmc with a L10 that has a idle surge. Any tips on what to look for?
My guess is that a 1990 would be an STC engine and an idle surge sounds like it could be an STC issue. Basically Cummins used engine oil pressure to regulate injection timing. I’d look up your engine ESN and first determine exactly what L10 you have
Hey rob, i have same truck as your's.my question to you is ,if you were to change that motor to 855 big cam would it fit inside there without any engine mount mods?
I don’t know that the mounts themselves are the same part numbers- the front definitely isn’t- But in general, they mount in the same location on the rails. Ford put the transmissions in the same spot vs. the cab and just used different engines, mounts, hoods and doghouses to make it all work. 855’s were definitely a thing in short hoods like mine though.
@robstruckshop80 thanks much for the info
is there a video on adding the pyro? is there a spot on the engine? or do you have to drill for the sensor?
I don’t think I made a specific video on the pyro. My exhaust manifold had two 1/4” NPT plugs in it and I was able to heat one up enough to get it out clean. The pyro then threaded right in with the supplied NPT adapter. Without those provisions, the options would be drilling and tapping the manifold or installing it after the turbo.
@@robstruckshop80 ok. thanks i will look and see... my fear is even if i have a plug.. its going to be so rusty it will never come out
To Turn It Into A Beast
A newer Eaton 10 speed would be nice in that truck
why is there no pressure at idle only when boost is needed
The pump itself is creating pressure at idle, but the test port doesn’t show it
hey where did yo get the gauge from need to do the same to my l10
Honestly it either came from Amazon or the hardware store. Any liquid filled pressure gauge that goes high enough will do the trick.
@@robstruckshop80 thanks for the reply I actually ordered the fitting today off amazon and have a gauge that should work, having some power issues with my truck thinking fuel or maybe stc valve
How did you get the little circle ball out of the throttle shaft we’re the flathead screw was in ?
I drilled it out very carefully
@@robstruckshop80 how I tried it and that ball is hard a f
I used a center punch to divot the ball then lots of cutting fluid but I remember breaking a bit or 2 in the process and being pissed off. I’ve heard some people say that their tamperproof balls were lead so they drilled really easily, but mine was definitely a harder steel.
@@robstruckshop80 same the one I’m dealing with is so hard I held the drill one their as hard as I dared and it barely scratched it
@@robstruckshop80is their a way to pry it out or use a magnet
15-17 psi boost is deff low for a cummins L10. Even pick up trucks run 20-30 psi
Haha watch a few videos ahead.
Is that starter a air starter thanks and take care.
No it’s a standard 12 volt starter
@@robstruckshop80 thanks for the information Rob and always had a liking for the Ford 9000 series Louisville line trucks keep up the fine work and take care.
Réglage pression de gas-oil au banc d'essai. Ne pas Sur le moteur. C'est le mauvai Mécanicien qui Touche la pompe PT Sur le Moteur.
Bench is ideal but my pockets aren’t deep enough for that. Results are fantastic, just like the tens of thousands of other people who’ve done it
Is that the 280hp L10?
270 horse per Cummins Quickserve
@@robstruckshop80 looking to squeeze about 310 or so I assume
The l10 is a sweet engine. It will work well for u. Your attention to detail and how you take care of your stuff.. will work great for u
Thank you very much- right now I’m hoping for 300-320. Down the line with fuel system and turbo upgrades I’d like to hit 400.
pt fuel pump is way better then any cat. throttle response doesnt exist in cat land
I’m sure cats are decent motors, but I can’t deal with the attitudes of the die hard cat guys, so I’ll stick with my Cummins. Simple, reliable, and capable of big power.