I've worked on pumps while still on engine, replaced the fuel plunger from. #32 to. A #5 I stretched the spring and had 2450 no load RPM and my fuel mileage went from 5.8 to 6.25 and pulled hills much better less shifting. You need to watch your pryomter if it goes over 950 back off or down shift. I have also used. #10 and that works ok as well.
I always use an "0" button, a white spring & 2 shims! And don't forget to back off the Anoroid valve, 2450 rpm without a load in it, shift point will be 2150 and your big Cam will SCREAM! Massive hp from a smaller engine! Shortens the engine life by about 50000 miles & uses a lil more fuel, but trust me, you'll LOVE the power !
Anthonio Nesbitt the governor spring. Yes. I bought an entire assortment of springs and buttons from them. Just be careful don’t lug the cummins she won’t like the pyrometer heat.
@@johncholmes643 a big cam can handle 2700 to 3000. A small cam can not. At 2500 they will put valves into the pistons. Them blindly putting in shims and not knowing the exact shim for the governor setting all it takes is one throttle snap and it goes too high and boom
To properly turn up a cummins ptg/afc pump one needs to turn the throttle shaft leakage screw a tiny bit outwards. As well as adjust the afc bellows pressure setscrews. The fuel button should be changed to a lower size if the parameters of the leakage is not acceptable. Going from a 7/16 gear pump to a larger 3/4 or even 1” from a “celect” style pump will be somewhat necessary to keep the pump internals from overheating via too small a gear. This guy is only increasing engine rpm which is highly problematic on the nhc/ntc/m11/ formula 300 ect engines. Turning up fuel pressure to say 300 pounds isn’t going to do much if the fuel orifice screws in the injectors are too restricted. Almost all of the excess fuel will return to the fuel tank.
I'm glad to see your comment isn't super old here.. My truck did that when the throttle clamp came loose.. I tightened it up and it solved the issue. Mine was a brand new pump. I've had it happen a few times, but the last time I clamped it tight and put a little blue loctite on it and it's holding 6 months later.
Anthonio Nesbitt you gotta be careful. There’s 100s of calibration codes for the PT pump. If you’re pump code calls for a 35 button and a yellow spring and you put in a number 5 with zebra purple stripe your pistons won’t be too happy. Call Permco with your pump pump I’d tag number and go from there.
@@bctw9004 thanks alot, i have #5 button in my pump stock Governor springs with about 15 shims, it revs high and fast, i think some thing is rong with my Turbo, i have a Holset Bht3b turbo & it makes this anoying BOV sound when ever i full throtle & let of the gass pedal, i think my turbo is trying to stall, iam buying a HT60 turbo in a few months
Anthonio Nesbitt yes sounds like you need more air or have a boost leak. Check all your hoses and clamps. Exhaust manifold gaskets were known for going bad on cummins also. That will decrease your boost. My 400 BC has a HT3 also. They are good for 650 hp. Manifold pressure is 32 and runs good. My rail pressure is 225. That is about the max I personally would run on a cummins without it destroying itself.
nice vid yo, been hauling with smallcams and bigcams for 4 years now, since i turned 18. most reliable engine ever built
No telling how much more power increased just because he was wearing a CAT shirt!!!
I've worked on pumps while still on engine, replaced the fuel plunger from. #32 to. A #5 I stretched the spring and had 2450 no load RPM and my fuel mileage went from 5.8 to 6.25 and pulled hills much better less shifting. You need to watch your pryomter if it goes over 950 back off or down shift.
I have also used. #10 and that works ok as well.
I always use an "0" button, a white spring & 2 shims! And don't forget to back off the Anoroid valve, 2450 rpm without a load in it, shift point will be 2150 and your big Cam will SCREAM! Massive hp from a smaller engine! Shortens the engine life by about 50000 miles & uses a lil more fuel, but trust me, you'll LOVE the power !
Without putting the pump on a test bench or back on the truck and run up on a chassis dyno all this is a shot in the dark and backyard mechanics.
Unless you have a fuel pressure gauge and manifold psi gauge
He basically went about 300rpm higher
No fuel pressure was modified in this video
The test bench is in the room to the left. It does add fuel pressure, that's the beauty of having a test bench and prove that it works
And this is exactly why you don’t watch a RUclips video and assume the OP knows what they’re talking about.
Nice tips now ill turn my pump up until it explode
Anthonio Nesbitt he is an idiot. Did absolutely nothing but increase rpm.
@@bctw9004 your right, who sells the Red Spring for those PT pump?
Anthonio Nesbitt Permco in Texas is who I get all my PT parts from.
@@bctw9004 do they sell that Blue spring that goes in the pt fuel pump that increases RPMs?
Anthonio Nesbitt the governor spring. Yes. I bought an entire assortment of springs and buttons from them. Just be careful don’t lug the cummins she won’t like the pyrometer heat.
Rookies. No power increase. Just a redline somewhere above 2300rpms and BOOM
Mine turns 2600
@@johncholmes643 a big cam can handle 2700 to 3000. A small cam can not. At 2500 they will put valves into the pistons. Them blindly putting in shims and not knowing the exact shim for the governor setting all it takes is one throttle snap and it goes too high and boom
He raised It 300 rpm. You need bigger valve spring. Hell you need bigger valve springs above 30psi of boost
@@johncholmes643 nice!!!
What’s the difference if o get a #40 fuel button as opposed to a #7 or a double 0 zero
40 is less powa
Buenas, bendiciones
Cómo puedo abrir un poco la bomba para darle fuerza al motor
To properly turn up a cummins ptg/afc pump one needs to turn the throttle shaft leakage screw a tiny bit outwards. As well as adjust the afc bellows pressure setscrews. The fuel button should be changed to a lower size if the parameters of the leakage is not acceptable. Going from a 7/16 gear pump to a larger 3/4 or even 1” from a “celect” style pump will be somewhat necessary to keep the pump internals from overheating via too small a gear.
This guy is only increasing engine rpm which is highly problematic on the nhc/ntc/m11/ formula 300 ect engines.
Turning up fuel pressure to say 300 pounds isn’t going to do much if the fuel orifice screws in the injectors are too restricted. Almost all of the excess fuel will return to the fuel tank.
Apa punya check Valve gear pump??
What wear were you compensating for? RPM?
That increased RPM only
What will cause a pt fuel pump to (Slowly) come down from Acceleration , my ntc engine revs up normally but excels Slow , changed fuel filter
I'm glad to see your comment isn't super old here.. My truck did that when the throttle clamp came loose.. I tightened it up and it solved the issue. Mine was a brand new pump. I've had it happen a few times, but the last time I clamped it tight and put a little blue loctite on it and it's holding 6 months later.
air in pump
how much rpm did you gain with 2 shims ? mine is maxed at 1800 a little more would be great
You can stretch the govenor spring and get more RPM
You can along as you don't have a cruise speed pump. Adding shims doesn't work
All that does is increase the RPM. Does nothing for fuel pressure or power. Need to change button and spring.
Your right bro, i heard the Blue spring with a number 0 button adds alot of power and response
Anthonio Nesbitt you gotta be careful. There’s 100s of calibration codes for the PT pump. If you’re pump code calls for a 35 button and a yellow spring and you put in a number 5 with zebra purple stripe your pistons won’t be too happy. Call Permco with your pump pump I’d tag number and go from there.
@@bctw9004 thanks alot, i have #5 button in my pump stock Governor springs with about 15 shims, it revs high and fast, i think some thing is rong with my Turbo, i have a Holset Bht3b turbo & it makes this anoying BOV sound when ever i full throtle & let of the gass pedal, i think my turbo is trying to stall, iam buying a HT60 turbo in a few months
Anthonio Nesbitt yes sounds like you need more air or have a boost leak. Check all your hoses and clamps. Exhaust manifold gaskets were known for going bad on cummins also. That will decrease your boost. My 400 BC has a HT3 also. They are good for 650 hp. Manifold pressure is 32 and runs good. My rail pressure is 225. That is about the max I personally would run on a cummins without it destroying itself.
Anthony Nesbitt what you're talking about is turbo surge
I need the governor to keep me from breaking the damn motor
the motor will spin 3000 no problem.
This method will just add no load rpms it will be very little noticeable hp gained from adding a shim
NOW ,That is how you compensate for wear!!!
RPM shims are bad
You need to learn a little more...lol
Completely incorrect way of doing it