Word of advice to anyone considering Wes' other cerusing videos . . . in this video he uses the polycrylic topcoat, a water-based topcoat. In his OTHER video he uses Urethane, a disaster for anyone using it on top of the white glaze, which interacts with the paint causing a nasty yellowing over time. What he DOES mention in this video is that he uses alternative products, like polycoat. However, the switch to the water-based topcoat is because others, like myself, took his advice and used the urethane with horrible yellowing results (looks more like someone urinated on my cabinet). I've left a comment on the other video asking Wes to remove the topcoat advice at the end of that video so that others who happen to see it won't waste their time on the original technique. At the least he should mention this change in his description section on that video so others can steer clear from the urithane and use poly coat instead.
Hey, I think it is his old videos with hard to get product with the video you are referring to that made him find products. There's always tradeoffs and Wes can't know everything. What I'm saying is I don't think he did this out of Ill will.
@@TrentShared I agree. I only mentioned it because there are others who may attempt an entire kitchen of cabinets. I was fortunate enough to have only tried this on a bathroom vanity and mirror. I have a can of polycrylic and noticed recently it also states that use of that product would also cause 'natural ambering over time.' My guess is perhaps not as drastic as the urethane(?) I still have the mirror and vanity and intend on repainting them early next year. I was disapponted with the yellowing because I LOVE this cerusing finish and would love to do my kitchen cabinets but need to decide on a color that will not be affected by the top coat.
Wes also lightly hand sanded before his final protective coat in his other videos, shortly after wiping off the glaze, to create more contrast between the grain and base colors. Why he neglected to do that here is beyond me, but he should've addressed it if it occurred to him so I think he messed up this video. Seems he's made 4 tries now at a decent video and is still 0/4.
@@jewelbug8713 and you have to be careful because most urethanes in the box stores are geared towards floor finishes and stained wood projects and these urethanes have a natural Honey/Amber hue to them...and i recall that he used a Lacquer clear coat on those commercial grade paints/glazes he refinished the cabinets with...
Video is great, We had a customer asking about this the other day. When I see him I will most definitely point him to this video as a good starting point.
Thanks for sharing great work and nice job you did for us 👍. I am a Painter , I have been doing my job almost 14 years but I like learn new skills more and more . God bless you.
Thank you this is great to include products more readily available to the public. I hope your next video is a glaze over a stained oak. I’m looking for that Restoration Hardware look. Thanks.
You're a genius, Wes! I like woodgrain, but not my golden oak-----seems a pity to paint over it with opaque paint....love the water-like movement of oak. Now I know how to change the color--even make it more understated by using less contrasting colors. So many cabinets, so little time! C'mon over!
Go for it! You might want to look at my latest video with what I have found to be the best products for cerusing: ruclips.net/video/kZDk0CBRS3I/видео.html Thanks for watching, Wes
Thanks Wes! I just watched the original video & then this one. Much easier for me with readily available products & and good ole fashioned paint brush. My question is, since Ive already painted all the ones in the kitchen of my Airstream is there a way to keep the paint on to achieve this type of finish? Some sanding & wire brushing perhaps? I hate the thought of stripping them & starting from scratch.
I've watched several of your videos on cerusing, and they are so helpful and informative for painted wood. Are you planning to do any that show how to do staining wood and cerusing? I think this is how some of the high-end furniture stores like Restoration Hardware, Pottery Barn, Arhaus, Crate & Barrel and others are finishing wood and it looks amazing, but they are using stained wood, not painted wood. The only video I could find was Steve Fanuka (HGTV Million Dollar Contractor) from 8 years ago. They go really fast, so it's hard to follow the technique. Thanks for all your work, you are really the only one on youtube doing this technique. LOVE IT!
I love watching your ceruse videos. I am thinking about trying this in my home, so I’ve watched all of them more than once. lol 😂 I was wondering if you’ve ever tried this process with a stain as the base coat instead of a paint (or tinted primer)? And if you would or would not suggest it? I love the look of natural wood. Thanks!
I don't know about 2 glazes...I have not done it, you could test it. I would also recommend our new video on the channel with some glazing we just love ruclips.net/video/kZDk0CBRS3I/видео.html
@@WoodworkingWithWes I couldn’t find the paint that I used, I can look again tomorrow. But the stain and sealer were both Minwax water based. The stain was tinted to a nice dark gray. The sherwin williams paint was a light gray.
Hi @shandawoodin1082, I got an acrylic glaze from Benjamin Moore.. The brand they have is GPW Golden Paintworks. I found it dried quite fast so I was not able to remove all the product from the main colour. So it left streaks and a milky appearance. It could be for several reasons. Wrong glaze/paint mix ratio, low humidity in Calgary, paint is paint/primer in one so maybe primer mix is problematic. Having a dampened rag helped to remove some of it. I’ve redone the stain base coat, put a clear coat on top of that and will attempt it again today after mixing higher ratio of glaze with a regular paint. Local paint suppliers tell me they don’t make oil based glaze anymore. Wes has another video with a product that would have to be shipped to Canada. It appears to be a wax which makes me wonder if it’s similar to the waxes at home depot.
How long did you let the base coat dry before you added the sealer? And then how long do you let the sealer dry before you add the next coat? Thanks for your videos I'm going to be doing my kitchen and bathrooms like this
I used this polycrylic and got a yellow effect over my white after I applied it. Did you get this? I’m also having trouble getting the glaze to fill in the cracks without being wiped back out. Any secret to this? Thanks
You should have tried the Urethane he recommended in his last video. Yellow effect is an understatement - more like 'freshly coated urine' as a crowning finish for the time and effort you invested. 😖
I tried this technique with Zinsser 1-2-3 primer from Menards, then used Polycrylic, then General Finishes pitch black glaze from Woodcraft Supply. Worked great. Also tried it without the polycrylic in the middle; it was much more difficult to wipe off the excess glaze and didn’t look as clean; it looked very hazy.
My cabinet doors were looking really good after two coats of primer then one coat of Minwax polycrylic then white latex / clear glaze but then when I applied final polycrylic coating the white yellowed. I now have to sand and redo white glaze process again 😢 What would be another option that won’t yellow the white ceruse look and provide protection for kitchen cabinets?
The Polycrylic should not have yellowed. The only thing that stumps me is ...I am not familiar with your glazing product and what reaction it might have had with polycrylic. I suggest checking with the product manufacturers. Thanks Wes
Could the top coat you used in this video be sprayed as well? I’m having trouble understanding the best spray top coat for this technique and one that is readily available. It seems to either not be mentioned or, in this case, it’s being brushed on. Just wanting to double check! Thanks.
I want black base and purple accent. Even going to my local Benjamin Moore they can help. Please just tell me what I need before my project ends up in the bombfire
Hi...thank you for all your kind comments. Cerusing works best on coarse grain woods such as oak and ash. Check out our video on the channel of cerusing 11 different kinds of wood. Wes
I’m not Wes and I never tried what you’re asking about. However, I believe that Beyond Paint is very thick and self-leveling, and therefore might fill the grain somewhat
When I apply the glaze and try to take it off it feels really thick like Elmer's glue and pasty... Just doesn't feel smooth to wipe off compared to what he does.
I am not sure what is causing your problem. Perhaps your base coat was not completely dry. We have found another glazing product you might want to check out: ruclips.net/video/-FSoaeDcSjg/видео.html
Hi Mary...I would like to have you watch my latest video on 2 products I have found to be the best for the cerusing method: ruclips.net/video/kZDk0CBRS3I/видео.html Thanks for watching, Wes
Not a fan of Acrylic or waterborne products they just don't stand up and break down from the oils in your hands so won't recommenced them in a heavy use area like kitchens
i think people would appreciate a five minute direct address on the TYPES of 'base coat' / primer to use and which type needed sanding / vs sealing . . . that's my biggest problem is none of those products exist around here, no one at the paint stores has a clue even when i show them your videos and you're jut not clear about being precise with names / types of paint . .. again in this video i heard latex / water based and no clear distinction on sanding between on each type of paint . . . a 'sprayer' isn't the difficult part . . . the fact that you never directly address paint / stain by anything but brand name (over and over) is annoying . . .we want the 'chemistry' of it and the differences . . .here's an idea for you . . . go to lowes / home depot and nards (menards) film the discussion with the dept manager or paint specialist so that we SEE them get it and provide you with options based on their stock, which is what every one wants . . . i mean it's really not hard to order the MLK stuff and paste you just keep hinting 'we can do it local' without being clear at all about it >
Here's an idea for you. Go get a base layer, a glaze, and a sealer. Try it and see if it works. If the glaze reacts and ruins the base coat then try a sealer in between. This isn't rocket science. It's painting.
I was in Depot lately and ‘read the shelf’ in the paint department to see the section of paints suitable for painting cabinetry. Then look for a clear glaze. Then look for a topcoat. It’s all there, these are not new or specialty products. For myself, I ultimately went with the Waverley line of chalk-style paint, and Waverley clear glaze, but will probably do Minwax polycrylic for a topcoat. Waverley is a Walmart brand found in their craft isle.
@ANnamdi Lynn, I was wondering about using chalk paint. Wes always uses a primer. I guess trial and error. As someone else said, the chalk paint may fill in the grain too much? Did your project turn out looking okay using chalk paint?
@@myrnafromcanada1216 I’m still in the experimenting phase, doing samples on the inside of my cabinet doors. I’m wanting for the grain to be white, and for the golden oak color to show through a wash of white. I’m not stripping the finish that’s on there, I’m only scuff sanding it with 180. So I’m not priming. I tried lime wax but I don’t have the arm strength to really get that wire brush into the grain, so the lime wax mostly just sat on top instead of sinking into the grain. So I tried watered down chalk paint (approximately 50/50), and that’s settling into the grain pretty well. But the look is a little too blotchy for my taste. I think I can even it out if I use clear glaze instead of water. That’s what I’m going to try next. Honestly I think I just wasted a lot(!!!) of time and sore muscles wire brushing, I believe the diluted chalk paint is going to sink into the grain just fine just from scuff sanding
Word of advice to anyone considering Wes' other cerusing videos . . . in this video he uses the polycrylic topcoat, a water-based topcoat. In his OTHER video he uses Urethane, a disaster for anyone using it on top of the white glaze, which interacts with the paint causing a nasty yellowing over time. What he DOES mention in this video is that he uses alternative products, like polycoat. However, the switch to the water-based topcoat is because others, like myself, took his advice and used the urethane with horrible yellowing results (looks more like someone urinated on my cabinet). I've left a comment on the other video asking Wes to remove the topcoat advice at the end of that video so that others who happen to see it won't waste their time on the original technique. At the least he should mention this change in his description section on that video so others can steer clear from the urithane and use poly coat instead.
thank you so much for your advice
Hey, I think it is his old videos with hard to get product with the video you are referring to that made him find products. There's always tradeoffs and Wes can't know everything. What I'm saying is I don't think he did this out of Ill will.
@@TrentShared I agree. I only mentioned it because there are others who may attempt an entire kitchen of cabinets. I was fortunate enough to have only tried this on a bathroom vanity and mirror. I have a can of polycrylic and noticed recently it also states that use of that product would also cause 'natural ambering over time.' My guess is perhaps not as drastic as the urethane(?) I still have the mirror and vanity and intend on repainting them early next year. I was disapponted with the yellowing because I LOVE this cerusing finish and would love to do my kitchen cabinets but need to decide on a color that will not be affected by the top coat.
Wes also lightly hand sanded before his final protective coat in his other videos, shortly after wiping off the glaze, to create more contrast between the grain and base colors.
Why he neglected to do that here is beyond me, but he should've addressed it if it occurred to him so I think he messed up this video. Seems he's made 4 tries now at a decent video and is still 0/4.
@@jewelbug8713 and you have to be careful because most urethanes in the box stores are geared towards floor finishes and stained wood projects and these urethanes have a natural Honey/Amber hue to them...and i recall that he used a Lacquer clear coat on those commercial grade paints/glazes he refinished the cabinets with...
Video is great, We had a customer asking about this the other day. When I see him I will most definitely point him to this video as a good starting point.
Please do...thank you very much! Wes
This looks so much better then covering up the beautiful grain. Enhancing the grain with gorgeous color is so beautiful & refreshing.❤ great job.
Excellent Wes, I gathered a great deal here by watching your method
Great! Thank you very much for watching, glad it was helpful. Wes
I like the green and white. Blue and white would look nice too.
Thanks for sharing great work and nice job you did for us 👍. I am a Painter , I have been doing my job almost 14 years but I like learn new skills more and more . God bless you.
Well thank you for such a kind comment! I appreciate you visiting the channel. Wes
This is just what I needed to see to move forward on a project I’m doing…thank you so much for sharing!😊
Thank you this is great to include products more readily available to the public. I hope your next video is a glaze over a stained oak. I’m looking for that Restoration Hardware look. Thanks.
💕 Thank you, Wes. The drawer front turned out Beautiful. 💕
You are so welcome...thank you for watching, Wes
Yes
Absolutely gorgeous color. Thanks for showing us how to get this look on cabinets. ❤
You are so welcome...thanks for watching, Wes
I like each and every video of yours because you make from heart.
Great technique Wes! And a end product. Thanks for sharing this.👌👌👌👌👌🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
You're a genius, Wes! I like woodgrain, but not my golden oak-----seems a pity to paint over it with opaque paint....love the water-like movement of oak. Now I know how to change the color--even make it more understated by using less contrasting colors. So many cabinets, so little time! C'mon over!
Wes you are the man, been watching many years 👉💥💯
I appreciate that! Thanks for being part of our community and your comment, Wes
Ooooh I can’t wait too see you use a black glaze on a dark green stained primer :)
Is there an updated video with this?
Since a saw few videos of your channel with this glaze finish on oak, i want to literally make ALL my project in oak😆
Go for it! You might want to look at my latest video with what I have found to be the best products for cerusing:
ruclips.net/video/kZDk0CBRS3I/видео.html
Thanks for watching, Wes
Thanks Wes! I just watched the original video & then this one. Much easier for me with readily available products & and good ole fashioned paint brush. My question is, since Ive already painted all the ones in the kitchen of my Airstream is there a way to keep the paint on to achieve this type of finish? Some sanding & wire brushing perhaps? I hate the thought of stripping them & starting from scratch.
I've watched several of your videos on cerusing, and they are so helpful and informative for painted wood. Are you planning to do any that show how to do staining wood and cerusing? I think this is how some of the high-end furniture stores like Restoration Hardware, Pottery Barn, Arhaus, Crate & Barrel and others are finishing wood and it looks amazing, but they are using stained wood, not painted wood. The only video I could find was Steve Fanuka (HGTV Million Dollar Contractor) from 8 years ago. They go really fast, so it's hard to follow the technique. Thanks for all your work, you are really the only one on youtube doing this technique. LOVE IT!
Thank you for your comment and suggestions. I will look into this further and see what we can do for a stain application. Thanks for watching, Wes
I love watching your ceruse videos. I am thinking about trying this in my home, so I’ve watched all of them more than once. lol 😂 I was wondering if you’ve ever tried this process with a stain as the base coat instead of a paint (or tinted primer)? And if you would or would not suggest it? I love the look of natural wood. Thanks!
Yes I have done that. Its the same process: after wire brushing, stain, seal, glaze and top coat. You will do great! Good luck...Wes
Diseños súper exclusivos que excelente trabajo, pero me podría decir si los tintes son solo a base de agua.? Gracias
Just love your work. I was wondering if it possible to apply two different glaze color on top of each other once each glazed has dried up?
I don't know about 2 glazes...I have not done it, you could test it. I would also recommend our new video on the channel with some glazing we just love
ruclips.net/video/kZDk0CBRS3I/видео.html
Thank you for sharing. I found a supplier within an hour of my home. I will go this direction instead
Sounds good...glad that will work out for you. Thanks for watching, Wes
I used Sherwin williams products and the results were beautiful.
I am glad to hear that! Do you mind telling me exactly what you used...I would love to pass that along to our viewers. Thanks, Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes I couldn’t find the paint that I used, I can look again tomorrow. But the stain and sealer were both Minwax water based. The stain was tinted to a nice dark gray. The sherwin williams paint was a light gray.
where do you find a glaze in Canada?...very challenging to get I've found.
Hi @shandawoodin1082, I got an acrylic glaze from Benjamin Moore.. The brand they have is GPW Golden Paintworks. I found it dried quite fast so I was not able to remove all the product from the main colour. So it left streaks and a milky appearance. It could be for several reasons. Wrong glaze/paint mix ratio, low humidity in Calgary, paint is paint/primer in one so maybe primer mix is problematic. Having a dampened rag helped to remove some of it. I’ve redone the stain base coat, put a clear coat on top of that and will attempt it again today after mixing higher ratio of glaze with a regular paint. Local paint suppliers tell me they don’t make oil based glaze anymore. Wes has another video with a product that would have to be shipped to Canada. It appears to be a wax which makes me wonder if it’s similar to the waxes at home depot.
My cabinets are oak on the edges and maple in the centers. Will cerusing work the same on the maple?
How long did you let the base coat dry before you added the sealer? And then how long do you let the sealer dry before you add the next coat? Thanks for your videos I'm going to be doing my kitchen and bathrooms like this
Wes...what polycrylic are you using in this video? Satin, flat, ultra flat,clear, semi gloss,clear gloss?
I used this polycrylic and got a yellow effect over my white after I applied it. Did you get this? I’m also having trouble getting the glaze to fill in the cracks without being wiped back out. Any secret to this? Thanks
You should have tried the Urethane he recommended in his last video. Yellow effect is an understatement - more like 'freshly coated urine' as a crowning finish for the time and effort you invested. 😖
I tried this technique with Zinsser 1-2-3 primer from Menards, then used Polycrylic, then General Finishes pitch black glaze from Woodcraft Supply. Worked great. Also tried it without the polycrylic in the middle; it was much more difficult to wipe off the excess glaze and didn’t look as clean; it looked very hazy.
I was curious if after you used the general finishes glaze did you put a top coat over that?
@@cjbake3238 I did. It left a nice hard finish after it cured.
Awesome video, should make a video using homedepot or Lowe’s products
Victor...yes we did go to Home Depot and Lowe's. They were unable to help us with what we needed and Benjamin Moore did. Thanks for watching, Wes
My cabinet doors were looking really good after two coats of primer then one coat of Minwax polycrylic then white latex / clear glaze but then when I applied final polycrylic coating the white yellowed. I now have to sand and redo white glaze process again 😢
What would be another option that won’t yellow the white ceruse look and provide protection for kitchen cabinets?
The Polycrylic should not have yellowed. The only thing that stumps me is ...I am not familiar with your glazing product and what reaction it might have had with polycrylic. I suggest checking with the product manufacturers. Thanks Wes
Want to clarify you sealed the doors before you put on the stain then again after?
Hello Wes! Thanks for the videos! Why you choose or work always with oak? Thanks!
This is specifically helping with updating a golden oak kitchen. I work with every kind of wood when I am building. Thanks for watching, Wes
This must be a no-sanding method because sanding was key in previous videos. Thanks for the video, Wes.
I don't think I sanded any of my golden oak ceruse videos...only wire brushed. Thanks for watching, Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes No, you did light sanding with a sanding pad. I've watched all of your previous cerusing videos several times :)
@@WoodworkingWithWes iv watched 3 vidoes where you sand after you add glaze
I heard you explain to not put the glaze on the back of the cabinet door, but what do you do to the cabinet?
what ever you want >
Could the top coat you used in this video be sprayed as well? I’m having trouble understanding the best spray top coat for this technique and one that is readily available. It seems to either not be mentioned or, in this case, it’s being brushed on. Just wanting to double check! Thanks.
The top coat used in this video is not a sprayable top coat. For a sprayable top coat, I
use precat lacquer. Thanks for watching, Wes
Hello Wes, would this technique work on a maple rifle stock
Hi...this would not really work on a maple rifle stock. Maple has proved to be a poor wood choice for the cerusing technique. Thanks for watching, Wes
This reminds me of a technique called liming!
Noticed on the can, your first coat green wasn’t actually paint-it said primer-was that what was in the can?
Hi Brenna...you are right, it is a primer. Thanks for visiting the channel. Wes
Can you use latex paint as the first layer?
Can the process be done on teak or pine lumber?
Some woods work better than others. Check out our video on the channel for 11 different kinds of woods with the cerusing techniques. Thanks, Wes
Will this work on store bought barn door. Might be pine?
Hi...I have done a video showing 11 different woods using the cerusing method. That may help you decide. Thanks for watching, Wes
Can you do this to a truck bed? Exterior
Hi...sorry I really don't know because I have never done exterior finishes. Thanks, Wes
do you sand basecoat before adding sealer?
I do just a very light sand to prepare for the sealer. Thanks for watching, Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes You left that out of the video.
How durable is this paint on cabinet for wear and tear as it's not labeled cabinet paint.
Very durable...but don't take my word for it, you can check on the website with this reputable company. Thanks for watching, Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes thank you for your response. I have been very inspired by your tutorials!
I want black base and purple accent. Even going to my local Benjamin Moore they can help. Please just tell me what I need before my project ends up in the bombfire
I would start with a black lacquer but I have never seen anything such as a purple glaze. Sorry I couldn't be more help. Wes
Can this be done on cherry stained maple cabinets?
Hi...thank you for all your kind comments. Cerusing works best on coarse grain woods such as oak and ash. Check out our video on the channel of cerusing 11 different kinds of wood. Wes
QUESTION...do you think the base coat paint can be "Beyond Paint" type paint, then apply the polycrylic and glaze process?
I’m not Wes and I never tried what you’re asking about. However, I believe that Beyond Paint is very thick and self-leveling, and therefore might fill the grain somewhat
@@annalynn9325 thanks Anna, you're probably right. I'll try a test piece first.
Good
Can this be done on unfinished oak door panel's
Yes it can using the same process. Thanks for watching, Wes
When I apply the glaze and try to take it off it feels really thick like Elmer's glue and pasty... Just doesn't feel smooth to wipe off compared to what he does.
I am not sure what is causing your problem. Perhaps your base coat was not
completely dry. We have found another glazing product you might want to check out:
ruclips.net/video/-FSoaeDcSjg/видео.html
How would you remove it you don’t like ( have to sand everything)
Do a test board first.
How would this do on pine?
Please check out our video on 11 different kinds of wood for the ceruse technique. It will show you the application on pine. Thanks for watching, Wes
Lovely.I wish you had an overhead camera though…😋
Please can you hold it up so I can see your final product?
Hi Mary...I would like to have you watch my latest video on 2 products I have found to be the best for the cerusing method:
ruclips.net/video/kZDk0CBRS3I/видео.html
Thanks for watching, Wes
Anyone have a time saving technique to cerruse the ceilings and walls in a room? 🤣🤦🏻♂️ i am at my wits end wire brushing the oak.
Not a fan of Acrylic or waterborne products they just don't stand up and break down from the oils in your hands so won't recommenced them in a heavy use area like kitchens
Really dude why didn't you give us a good view of that piece of wood what are you thinking.
Need better closeups
There is no 'a' in (Minwax) Polycrylic.
This method looks like crap IMO.
i think people would appreciate a five minute direct address on the TYPES of 'base coat' / primer to use and which type needed sanding / vs sealing . . . that's my biggest problem is none of those products exist around here, no one at the paint stores has a clue even when i show them your videos and you're jut not clear about being precise with names / types of paint . .. again in this video i heard latex / water based and no clear distinction on sanding between on each type of paint . . . a 'sprayer' isn't the difficult part . . . the fact that you never directly address paint / stain by anything but brand name (over and over) is annoying . . .we want the 'chemistry' of it and the differences . . .here's an idea for you . . . go to lowes / home depot and nards (menards) film the discussion with the dept manager or paint specialist so that we SEE them get it and provide you with options based on their stock, which is what every one wants . . . i mean it's really not hard to order the MLK stuff and paste you just keep hinting 'we can do it local' without being clear at all about it >
You seem to be a very negative person. I am a novice and completely understood what he purchased. Add a coat of appreciation to your thoughts
Here's an idea for you. Go get a base layer, a glaze, and a sealer. Try it and see if it works. If the glaze reacts and ruins the base coat then try a sealer in between. This isn't rocket science. It's painting.
I was in Depot lately and ‘read the shelf’ in the paint department to see the section of paints suitable for painting cabinetry. Then look for a clear glaze. Then look for a topcoat. It’s all there, these are not new or specialty products. For myself, I ultimately went with the Waverley line of chalk-style paint, and Waverley clear glaze, but will probably do Minwax polycrylic for a topcoat. Waverley is a Walmart brand found in their craft isle.
@ANnamdi Lynn, I was wondering about using chalk paint. Wes always uses a primer. I guess trial and error. As someone else said, the chalk paint may fill in the grain too much? Did your project turn out looking okay using chalk paint?
@@myrnafromcanada1216 I’m still in the experimenting phase, doing samples on the inside of my cabinet doors. I’m wanting for the grain to be white, and for the golden oak color to show through a wash of white. I’m not stripping the finish that’s on there, I’m only scuff sanding it with 180. So I’m not priming. I tried lime wax but I don’t have the arm strength to really get that wire brush into the grain, so the lime wax mostly just sat on top instead of sinking into the grain. So I tried watered down chalk paint (approximately 50/50), and that’s settling into the grain pretty well. But the look is a little too blotchy for my taste. I think I can even it out if I use clear glaze instead of water. That’s what I’m going to try next. Honestly I think I just wasted a lot(!!!) of time and sore muscles wire brushing, I believe the diluted chalk paint is going to sink into the grain just fine just from scuff sanding