5.4 CAM PHAZER NOISE. this is the problem!
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- Hey everybody!
in this video i show you the most common cause of the phazer noise on the new 3 valves ford engines
and give you the best way to get to it without having to take the whole engine appart!
if you have a comment please leave it below!!
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as always have a BLESSED DAY!!
"Its just part of the job. You just got to keep going, a little patience and we'll make it through." Amen brother
I watched a lot of vids researching this problem.
Your video was dead on.
My driver's side tensioner was leaking exactly like yours. Everything else seemed to be tip top. I replaced tensioners and the oil pump. So far so good.
Thanx bro, good vid
Thanks for watching
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*Keeping it real and on a minimum budget no slack on the chain then you know the tensioners are the Achilles heel and for kicks would put in the Mellings M360HV for pressure issues that the 5.4 has from the factory.*
What that problem you describing is the loss of oil pressure - yes it will affect the cam phaser a bit but more importantly it will starve the lash adjusters on the passenger side and the roller followers will also suffer from the lack of lubrication. The flow of oil goes from the driver side then over to the passenger side. Excellent demo - It looks like you are using a very thick oil too beyond 5W20
This method is def helpful for anyone looking to find out whats going on with the timing. Much Appreciated! I got done doing this full job myself a couple of weeks ago.
Hey!
Thanks for taking the time to watch..
Hopefully this will help some else in the process of doing the job!
Thanks for the comment and for subscribing!
Have a blessed day!
Thanks brother I just had my 5.4 rebuilt 6 months ago and I'm starting to get the cam phasing tick I'm going to do the lockout kit myself
I was planning to fix the guides and tensioner without removing the valve covers but thought maybe it can't be done but now I know it can! thanks……..
Never thought about just removing front cover. Cool! Thanks
Great video and explanation. I heard a weird noise, sounded like a can of marbles in my 07 Lincoln Mark LT pickup truck. I changed the oil from the Motorcraft 5w20 to 5w30 Castrol GTX synthetic blend. Noise gone and my idle is a lot smoother than before.
Dude, you are awesome. Pretty sure my my chain tensioner is leaking like that too. Because it's got the dreaded cold start up rattle
If it rattles on cold start that might be chain guides broken and floating around in there... very common...
Thanks man this is exactly whats happening to my truck. Not sure i can undertake fixing the problem but now i know why. Thanks.
That was awesome!! Showing the oil leaking out.
Awesome video, man! This is exactly what I have been saying for years. My 2007 F-150 has 151k miles and still has no phaser noise because the seals luckily never have blown out. Big problem for this engine. I also recommend using the cast iron tensioner from the 2003 5.4L 2 valve version that doesn't use a gasket, in place of the problematic 3v tensioner.
Hey thanks for taking the time to watch!
Thats right!!....
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Have a blessed day!
So the 2003 5.4L 2v tensioner will work better and last longer than the stock 3v replacement?
@@frankmurray9353 Yes, absolutely it will. It uses a ratchet design and no gasket, so no worries about losing your oil pressure from a blown gasket and damaging the engine.
Well in this trucks the best way to start the diagnosis is pulling out the codes showing on the ECM
Yeah
Over advanced is always a sad ending cause most of times
Timing problem you sure will find!
But yeah I would tear it apart and replace whole kit including oil pump and pick up tube.
One thing I would highly recommend is take one or two cam shafts caps and inspect for wear
Cause if you find wear on them sure you have wear on crank bearings too
And remember this engine is very sensitive about oil pressure and that wear will mess up the time components
No, no MAF code, I’ll stick to trying to solve the timing issue. I was just trying to avoid dropping a couple thousand dollars on it. Thanks for your professional advice man I appreciate it!
No problem!
Any time
Please like and share ny channel!
Thanks for taking the time to watch!
Excellent video and right to the point. The 5.4 has problems but virtually all engines do. If you're not happy with Ford, go get a Chrysler product and tell us how you like that?
I couldn't agree more. Honestly I'd rather work on my 5.4 3V F-250 any day over my Grand Cherokee with 5.7 Hemi. That Jeep has had twice as many problems as the Ford in 150k miles. Not to mention it's got 16 damn spark plugs
Thanks bro I just heard the death rattle today. I saw this video a couple weeks back and now I have to try this out this weekend. Appreciate the vid hopefully I can get this done this weekend.
This is great but how did you get the powered steering pump off?
Tight
Small turn each time with a 10mm wrench
Sometimes you get lucky and some one has done the favor of not putting that bolt back in there
General Mechanic
I got lucky and someone left the two bolts out, but I fucked up and rounded off the crank bolt. I tried both air and electric impact heating the bolt bump start with breaker bar on and now it’s rounded off. Any ideas what to do about that bolt now?
Dude u nailed it. Great video..Good Job..
Thanks so much! Great video dude!!!
This guy is Fantastic.
Thanks brother , one mechanic to another thanks
Thanks for taking the time to watch!
If you have the budget and are going this deep in the engine you aught to replace the phasers, and oil pump.
Replace it ALL... Phasers, chain guides, Melling high volume oil pump, chains, tensioners and VCT solenoids. I also did my water pump, Fan clutch, pulleys and belt tensioner.
I agree with this video sometime it's not just the phaser is just oil pressure.
Great video. Wish I would have found it before I removed my wire harnesses and valve covers to get to my colapsed bank-2 chain tensioner. Liked ans sub'd
Nice idea- Did the front of the valve cover gaskets get torn or damaged when you pulled this front cover off? Looks like you had to put RTV to the top of oil pan gasket. Thanks for the info👍🏻
Not really on the gasket!
I was able to get it back on and no leaks after all.
A good idea I had found now is to take all bolts on valve cover loose so no tension on the gasket there
But not needed to remove
Ty very much
So what is the best timing chain tensioner to replace this with? I've heard the 4.6L 3v tensioner works good and creates a tighter seal, but are there any sure fire 5.4L 3v tensioners that will hold up fine?
Hey!
Well the thing is that 5.4 tensioners were made out of plastic (fiberglass) and 4.6 tensioners out of steel so thats big difference also the 5.4 come with rubber gasket and 4.6 have a metal plate instead of gasket so they are way better quality ones
Great video bro, I used to do a lot of engine work
Thanks for taking the time to watch!
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By the way bro badass I love your explanation your straightforward to the point if you create content like this a lot I'm going to sub! I do all my work myself besides having my engine and transmission rebuilt completely and next time I'll probably do that myself too because you can't count on anyone I paid a couple Grand my engine got rebuilt and now it's ticking like a fucking diesel
I'm curious as to how you would secure the cam or remove the phaser without pulling valve covers.
Thank you
Is this why I get a clacking noise on startup?
It makes a clacking noise for 1-3 secs after startup and then the engine runs fine with rare, light stumbling at stops.
When you remove/ replace the tensioner, does the cam move at all? Does it matter? Thanks
All I need is replace the tensioners and might as well replace the guides too. Pump is fine.it's
Weekend job. In my opinion the leaking tensioner is is the root of the problem, looses oil pressure and starves the top of the engine. It a no brainer.
Can I still axcess/change the oil pump if I only take off as much as u did?
No you could not axes it
How much would this cost at a shop or could I do this myself?
I’m about to do this same job. I seen on another video that they removed the entire valve covers. Is that not exactly required to replace the entire set?
For the whole se yes it is cause you need that clearance for your phasers!
Thanks for taking the time to watch!.. please subscribe for more!..
Could Lucas stop leak help with that leak problem on a 4.6?
Gracias primo!!!
If you want to do it right you need to pull the valve covers and check the lash adjusters and followers
That is right!
If you only want to do tensioners its ok but to do the whole job is necessary to take everything apart!
Thanks for taking the time to watch!
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Any advice how to hold the guides?
How do you know if it's your cam phasers knocking and not the rod bearing in the bottom of the engine
your good
Can i replace the timing chain guides without taking the valve covers off?
Hey!
Thanks for taking the time to watch!
I don’t think it will be an easy task to replace chains without taking covers off
You will have to have access to hold the cam shafts in place in order to set time in place!
Im saying the timing chain guides not the timing chain...
I think that is possible to do!
hey man just a question for you, i have a 2010 f150 with 127000 miles start noticing at cold start in the morning a little ratlle noise but it goes away right away then if i turn the engine off and start again it start just fine with no noise so wtf? any help will be apreciated. do you think i am going to start having camphaser problem?
nice video
Thank you for taking the time to watch!
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I have a ford f150 5.4 3v it does a knocking noice change the camphacers vct and still the noice is there. Could that be the problem tensenior gasket blown out and no oil to phacer?
Well most of the time that is the problem
I know to determine whether is or not is more diagnostic to be done but most likely that will be your problem
Ah man
Do you know that there is a upgrade for the tensioner right?
What is it?
So with the oil leaking out of the tensioner like that does it leak all over the ground or is it draining right back into the pan where you might never see it?
Yep it just drains inside the engine
Remember they are inside the timing cover!
You will never see it, but sure will make your truck run bad!
Thanks for taking the time to watch!...
I've been driving myself crazy with My truck. I recently bought a 2010 f-150. It runs great when its cold but spits and sputters after it warms up and just pukes power when I get on the gas pedal hard. I cleaned The MAF and throttle body, replaced plugs and coils. It had 4 codes bank 1&2 timing over advanced or system performance. Also bank 1&2 #1 O2 sensor. The O2 sensor codes went away after I cleaned the throttle body. With each thing I've done so far I've seen improvement but the problem persists. I just ordered a new MAF sensor just in case thats the culprit. The guy I bought it from said he had already replaced entire timing kit one year prior, I called the mechanic shop to confirm and they said they did. Any ideas? Theres no phaser noise that I can hear, just small clicking from injectors which I feel in normal. Thanks for your time-Rob
Do you have the codes for timing over advanced?
Imma see if i see any definition on the code but usually this codes are phaser related!
Even though they were done before don’t mean they cant go bad!
Yeah P0011 and P0021. I've been hopelessly attempting to avoid having to redo the phasers. I ran some seafoam and a short cycle of oil hoping to free up the VCT solenoids in case those were stuck. Unfortunately in the 2010 the VCT soloenoids are tougher to replace than model years prior, you have to remove the valve cover. I might make one last attempt before accepting defeat and do a BG engine oil flush to see if that doesnt free up the phasers or the VCT Solenoids. If that doesnt work I guess ill have to fork over the Big bucks and take it to a pro. I just dont understand why it runs like a beast when its cold then just pukes when it heats up? is that common with a Phaser problem? Thanks for your help I really appreciate it.
Is a common problem
But really phaser but loose of oil pressure on tensioners
That explains why cold (thick oil) runs good but when hot (thinner oil) runs bad!
Going through the same fun engineered headache.. why couldn't they just keep 351 motor . Instead of this crazy concoction that they built. So you can put rollers on it. to get one ,I don't understand what the big deal is. And in service was so damn easy on those motors.and if it was about weight issue with the motor and the vehicle I think that is just a bunch of crap!! All you need is more power. And the right gearing for that type of vehicle.. and we got all these new cars that can be recycled so material wouldn't be an issue.
Got that right!...
I have changed everything on my 5.4 3v 2006 f150 2wd. Spark plugs. Coils. Cleaned maf, and throttle body three times. Yes recalibrated pcm after every clean. Changed vct solenoids and got rid of knocking noise at acceleration 800-1000rpm No broken spark plugs ever. No vacuum leaks that I know of. My truck on cold or hot start has rough idle. You can feel it in seats. Rough idle in gear at stop and more rough in park. No codes ever. And hot idle my rpm is 625. When I put it in gear it drops to 500rpm real quick then back up to 600-625. But when i accelerate 700 and above the idle smooths out. Any ideas what it could be?? No knocking only a little tick at hot idle after the truck has been running for 30min. No tick on acceleration. Fuel injectors have been Terra cleaned through fuel rail. All this and still rough idle no codes. Please any suggestions. I will sub to you.
Do you have access to a scanner that can read fuel trim?!!
It sounds like we may have exhaust restriction or something like that!
One thing, how many miles in the truck?!
Did you ever looked inside the engine?
Feel free to keep replying ok!!
General Mechanic mechanic charges $140 to put it on a scanner to read live data. 97,800 miles on truck. You think a semi clogged catalytic converter??? Truck never stalled ... And new battery since February this year.
Sounds like!
Remember skipping involves few things!..
first is timing, that involves compression.
The. You have fuel, that includes pressure, injectors injection timing and more
Then you have firing could be coil, plug firing timing and much more.
Look the only thing that we need from live data is fuel trim.
That would give us an idea of wether exhaust problem or lean or rich fuel problem...
So that means that almost any cheap scanner can read fuel trim!
Even one from harbor freight.
General Mechanic can you give me brand name of a cheapest scanner. Are you talking bout obd2 scanner with mode 6???
I have a 2008 5.4 .. it started with the cam shaft sensor.. changed it out.. changed the vct solenoid.. and it still the same.. I run into for 30 min gets hot and when I come to a stop it starts to rattle and rough idle.. losses power. I accelerate and it gets back to normal. No check engine light. I'm about to change the coils but I seen this.. any ideas?
Most likely you have timing problem
Loosing oil pressure at tensioners
When solenoids are bad the will trow a code about that!
So i think you are facing the most common problem on f150 trucks
Thanks for taking the time to watch!
I was thinking it was that but wanted to stay away.. what is the price on that ? Thanks
Well
I know is a big job but not too hard to do!
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What fixed your engine?
Hey input the new tensioner on and it still leaks why would it do that
Did you get the one with silicone back or plate gasket?
It should lubricate the chain but through the pin hole in tip
@@GeneralMechanicGA yep ur rite so its not leaking
Its the chain oiler?
@@GeneralMechanicGA Silicone one
@@GeneralMechanicGA also replaced one chain rail on each side. Broken
The tensioners are working now
I'm trying to do this cheaply as I can not because I want to, but I'm broke cause if covid
Hey man my truck makes the rattle noise when I go to about 1500 rpm and goes away when I accelerate. Driving it slow makes it rattle like crazy. Also it sometimes locks the steering wheel turns the engine off saying low oil pressure. any help.
Well all I could tell you is that you have timing components failure its why it’s acting like that
Solution is to get in there and go ahead and replace the whole kit!
@@GeneralMechanicGA what would u recommend I replace?
I would go with a whole timing kit
Don’t do it without the phasers cause the ones that suffer the most when low oil pressure been present
@@GeneralMechanicGA okay so replace the cam phaser and a new timing kit
That’s right!
Thanks for taking the time to watch
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Having trouble with my 2010 f150
It’s ticking and knocking when I give it gas once I rev it up to higher rpm it will ease out. I can send you a video I need your help bro
I have the same problem with my 06. It fires up but once i start moving it and rpm's rise then it just eases out and dies. Sounds like some tapping from the center of the engine.
Common issue is the cam phasers. The timing adjusts based off of rpm / load. So youll hear the noise at one setting, rev the engine and the timing will advance or retard and your noise will change or go away
Is this problem only with the 3v..??
I have a 2v 4.6 and I’m having a knock on the passenger side. When I’m driving the truck feels so under power and also feels like if I have a misfire too...
The problem on my video yes!..
Only 5.4
I will tell you that 4.6 is known for dropping a rocker arm
I would take cover off and inspect that i can almos bet you that that is your problem
General Mechanic today I took the vale cover off and everything looked ok... it’s a light knock it’s not like it a loud knock... but idk. I haven’t had any problems with my 04 f150 4.6l...
Well!...
But if the truck shows the weakness when the knock happens then you have a problem on a cylinder...
If everything looked ok then if you are sure that u are in the right side where knock sounds, go for a compression test on that side and see what happens.
Can be a weak lifter, a broken valve spring or even a burnt valve.!!
A compression test will show a-lot!
And it started doing the knock after I passed though the flooded streets, so now I’m thinking that water got inside a coil fucked up my coil and water got inside my combustion chamber and fucked up a ring...
2 after I heard the knock I checked oil level and it was low...
But I think the low oil was not the problem cus if it was then the knocking noise would of been way louder and would of sound like metal grinding..
but it actually sounds like a tick noice...
Well it might be a weak lifter!...
By not removing the valve covers, you are missing to check an important part that destroys this engines, cam followers.
Are you in California
Naw
I’m in middle GA
I need my 2004 done it has the same problem so how much will you charge me
Where are you located?!.
The 5.4 3v the tensioner are really bad the LH side don't have lubrication to chain is for this reason the tensioner blowup the expert's recommended upgrade the oil pump to melling 360for more oil pressure . But more pressure damage the tensioner .See the pic. Bellow.
i.imgur.com/cTEBpKl.jpg
The 5.4 2v tensioner have a orifice to lubricate the chain .
No habla Espanol
that is an old part that was put there.. see the dust on the part
when you put it back together you need to remove the valve covers...
the engine has new slides...
i dont want to give you a like.. no phaser noise yet